>Delete your user interface.Last Thread: >>2817698>Your print failed? Go to:https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/>Calibrate your printer.https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.htmlIf that doesn't help you solve your problems, post:>A picture of the failed part>Printer make & model>Filament type/brand>Slicer & slicer settings>What printer should I buy? [32/03/90 :detadpU tsaL]Do your own research, these are just popular and available options.All controversial printers and brands have been removed from the list for your safety.DIY: https://reprap.org/wiki/SLA: >>>/tg/3dpg>Where can I get things to print?https://www.thingiverse.com/https://thangs.com/https://printables.com/https://grabcad.com/https://www.yeggi.com/https://cults3d.com/https://www.stlfinder.com/https://google.com/T*legr*m>What CAD software should I use?Free to anyone: Fusion360, Onshape, TinkerCAD, FreeCADFree to me: Autodesk Inventor, AutoCAD, Solidworks, Rhino, Solid EdgeAutistic /g/oobers: OpenSCAD, OpenJSCADMesh free-forming and modeling: BlenderArchitects: Sketchup>What slicer should I use?For everyone: Cura, PrusaSlicer, BambuStudio for Bambu owners.For enthusiasts: SuperSlicer, OrcaSlicerFor autists: Pleccer/SuperPleccer, Kiri:Moto, FullControlLegacy Pastebin (Last updated 1307 days ago): https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5#350
>>2821786>>2821786FPBP
printing a gravitrax finish line. Couldn't properly glue the original my son broke. Damn 3d printing is cool, should've done this years ago
did the retarded kids like the flute thingy?
>this is my X axisSV07 guy here. I think I'll have a stroke at this point.
>>2821534That blows, switching to orca becomes more and more desirable every day
>polymaker red ASA>polymaker white ABSTesting out some cheaped sourced acetone for chemical welding of ASA and ABS on simple shit.
>>2821840Another one>naga green ABS>peakace black ABSAnother project, this one is OK I just have collection of stainless still rods corralled into a single PVC container, I am testing cheaper ABS and cheaply sourced acetone, so far it seems to hold, given little shakes a few times hasn't broken yet.
Probably a stupid question, but would Dupont connectors work for attaching fans on the print head? I know the print head moves and it seems like a bad idea, but the only other option I have right now are JST-PH and the female ends are only made for inserting into circuit boards.
>>2821955It should be fine, as long as you zip tie to keep it secured. I have dupont connectors on my 3d printers for various things. Also I have the same type of jst, normally I would crimp females on some wires then just push them on the male ends heat shrink to keep secured
>>2821961>>2821955i know you said ph, but jst xH is 2.54mm pin pitch, same as dupont...just in case thats ever useful to you
>>2822056Yes I have inserted duponts into jst before when I didn't feel like crimping jst, my XH also have the kind where you put them in pcb, for some reason they don't sell jst where you can crimp the male side, only the female side, you can find them in "pig tails" but that's about it.
>>2822069> jst where you can crimp the male side,Yeah, this rustles my jimmies too.A while back I noticed that the locking connector often used on led strips seems to be compatible with jst: meaning: the pitch, pin size, and clamp mechanism too afaik. I have never really toyed with it, but I guess I can do that.To be honest I may have completely misinterpreted what i saw, i dont recall even what or where i saw it. But in my head it were these.But for XH not PH, obviously.https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005913797479.htmlhttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006860752491.htmlhttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/32919462422.html
>>2822073hmm, yeah, it kind of fits... but only in one directionThe XH seems to be a bit taller then the SMhttps://www.jst-mfg.com/product/pdf/eng/eSM.pdf
>>2822073>>2822079iirc it was in some kinf of product that I saw this SM-like connector hooked up to XH, maybe it wasnt the actual SM but something similar, maybe i dreamt it, maybe the product was janky as fuck.I cant recall.
I am having issues printing abs with my Creality K1, where for whatever reason the walls are separating from the rest of the print. I am just using the default ABS settings, and I am using Inland ABS. Did anyone experience this and fix it? I turned off the fans. Should I try upping the extrusion rate?
>>2822081>walls are separating from the rest of the printlolwutphotos also: maybe the interior of the case is still too cool for the abs.. if so you should leave the bed in a heated state for a few minutes prior to starting the actual print....and dont open the door.
>>2822081Sounds like underextruding. Try printing slower or increasing the temperature. If that doesn’t fix it, then recalibrate your e-steps and measure the filament diameter.I had prints where the walls separated, because I’d changed my extruder and hadn’t calibrated e-steps.
>>2822088>if so you should leave the bed in a heated state for a few minutes prior to starting the actual print.More like until chambers reach 35C desu, I normally wait until 40C on my vorons, but 35C works as well.
>>2822088I don't even know how to take a picture of it. It looks normal, but once you poke the wall, it's like a surface bubble where the material of the wall is slightly concave and not connected to the infill.
>>2822116Are you sure your horizontal layers are even connected to your vertical layers?You do have a value >0 in your slicer's top shell l and bottom shell values right?And you are NOT using vase mode...right?
Just starting out at doing design for 3D prints. Generally speaking, is it better to bevel edges of models that will be printed or should you always leave them as sharp as possible? Which one of the 2 objects in my pic would have the best quality print, be the easiest to sand and paint and be the better looking final product?
went from a creality to a bambu a1 mini and while I love the easy of just setting it to go and forgetting it, I miss the ease at which I could trouble shoot shit and not run into weird compatibility issues in a shitty app.Is using the stock bambu slicer and program worth fucking with or should I just stick to more plain and less bitch slicer software?
>>2822153looks like blenderre" bevel: i fond myself adding them to almost everyhting, even when i kind of hate them; they seem to make stls corrupt in the opinion of slicers, so they need special handling sometimes. Dont even get me started that they are effectively impossible to make objects look all sexy and futuristic with like parametric programs can so easily do.I see you specified a number of facets for the cirlce/cylinder you used as the base. Good idea. The trick is to choose the right number, and preferably make sure its a harmonic divisor of 4.16, 32, 64, 72 is useful, 180 is starting to get too high, and 360 is probably the most i would ever suggest. Thats before I'd even consider putting a subdivision on it. Most of the time I dont. Subdivision on a circle with >180 facets would be asking for trouble.To your question:bevels have their uses. You can mitigate elephants foot quite nicely by using a bevel. If its 1 segment bevel you pretty much guarantee a nice transition coming off the bed, if its more segements you may need to consider how line height will interplay with them. ie" check for big overhangs in slicer before printing.Im not sure theres a general reason to use or not use them. I guess you need to try it and see.I guess I use them mostly for mitigating corners that might bulge when i want them sharp, or whan im fitting into a concave corner - abruptly chopping off the corner of my print means i dont have to figure out the inner radius and try to match it.Bevels can make stuff less 'sharp', which can be desirable for many reasons.The heavily smoothed object in your pic may load your printers processor a bit due to zillions of the microscopic straight lines it will need to send the print.Obviously it *should* be easier to tool if youintend to sand etc. I dont do that so I cant really say. I ream bolth holes and deburr edges, sometimes diamond-file for fit. Not much more.
>>2822164Like the thing I just designed and am printing now: a shim that stops the drives in my enclosures from moving. Designed for use with 19mm and 25mm thick 3.5" drives.Some places are beveled so that they cant possibly snag on the enclosure or drive, others are explicitly not beveled so that fit snugly against the drive or enclosure. I used 1 segment bevels becasue that seemed the right choice in this case.
I have made a 120W filament drierYes the heating element is glowing a dull redI may adjust the position and resistance of the element, first I will test to see if it gets up to 70C, and dial back the power until it can do so in 30 minutes or so
>>2822183Oh I forgot to install the thermal fuse
>>2822184Can you put a camera on this and record 24hour loops for us? Just in case...I've always wondered what a fan-forced petg fire would look like.
>>2822081I have a bigger "wall hook" or whatever setting for my ABS profile too. Basically how much the wall and infill overlap>>2822163If you're used to cura and you don't miss anything then there is no reason to switch but bambuvslicer is more on the cutting edge as I understand it>>2822153>blenderI would always use real CAD software for round objects because you can export as step file because modern slicers allow you to print a radius as radius and not as approximating straight lines.
>>Be me>>engineer at bambu labs.>>bored one weekend with no plans>>modify the printer to twerk for 5 minutes and poop all over my desk>>decide to show my boss it as a joke>>tell him its performing "important calibration steps">>MFW he he doesnt get the joke>>MFW he genuinly belives the machine shitting everywhere is a needed calibration step>>too deep in this lie to back out now.>>It gets shipped into the final product>>consumers swear by it and believe it improves print quality>>I get a promotionwhat the fuck do I do now?
>>2822189>Be me>engineer>use all my weekends to tweak my printer>eventually decide to make a test print>it's worse than the one before I began tuning my printer>mfw I gotta troubleshoot my troubleshooting>mfw I genuinely wasted enormous amounts of time to get MORE ringing and layer shift I didn't have before>too deep in this mess to back down and just accept the stock configuration>swear I'll never buy (or accept as a gift) anything less automated than a Bambu>I get depressedWhat the fuck do I do now?
Klipper question: Some time ago I had GUI on my klipperscreen that wasnt what I have now. It had one tweak in particualr that I really liked: any time I paused the print it would switch to the screen for extrusion. This is seriously handy given that doing a bit of extrusion after a prolonged pause is a good idea... but since I switched out my OS media for a larger one I no longer have that tweak.I thought i'd have it in a config somewhere, but unless im looking in all the wrong places I cant find it.Does anyone recognise what i'm talking about?
>>2822202fix it
Printed a bunch of garbage to give to kids at a thing. The ring fidgets are actually fucking based, I normally don't do fidgets but they are nice prints and I made a 50% scale for my own desk.I also sold my old delta for $50. Just need to dust it off and wipe the dildos off the card.
>>2822233this pic>>2822236goes with this post, lol
>>2821840that's cool asf. I always wanted to print these sort of kits
>>2822233>fix itI'm finding it hard to believe it's even possible at this point. Tomorrow I'll buy 56kg of slabs of concrete hoping it will help.
>>2822183Put the heating element into a tin can with the filament traveling through it (just 1/4" of PTFE for inlet and outlet) so that it dries the filament as you need it. If it works, you will only need to keep the heating element on while printing.
>Be ender 3 owner>Print failed - family member tried to "stop the print" and melted the 'hero me' cooling duct in the process>The original fan died a long time ago and all I have are 5015s and random boltsI needed to mount a fan. It needed to be a fast print and something I could make good enough without cooling. Enter this piece of shit, which I call a quick & dirty fan mount for attaching a 5015 to an ender 3. It requires a single M4X20 bolt which I found lying around.
>>2822346And here it is printed and mounted to the print head. I'm quite amazed at just how good a job it does for a piece that prints in 15 minutes.
>>2822153it's unlikely you'll see the difference in a real print, so the left as it processes faster. slicers don't need millions of vertexes.
>>2822163orca > bambu slicer >>> curaalthough they're essentially the same. cura only for monofilament bed slinger from pre 2020.
>>2822183>inb4 melted spool
>>2822282>Tomorrow I'll buy 56kg of slabsdid you take away 40kg slabs? you obviously fucked something up you don't need to add something else.
>>2822346how did the murder go? have you cut up the body yet?
is it possible to do real print in place joints? not that floppy flexi shit but actual pip. what's the secret? also tried doing push-in clip-in joints but they just don't fit or fucking snap. I need some tight joints, what do?
>"adjust the bed height for auxillary levelling by spinning the adjustment wheels below the build plate">Wheel immediately falls off when I spin it >Won't go back on Aah!
>>2822358I have my printer sitting on top of pic related because I don't have anywhere else to put it. It's stable, but I saw that making the printer sit on top of a concrete slab might help with vibrations.
>>2822367I use something very similar and it already does a really good job of vibration dampening. If you are having print quality issues, it probably has nothing to do with the table it's on.
>>2822328>tin canWater diffuses in PLA at <1e-6 cm2/s = Chi. V/S = d/4.To get 90% of the water out, the dimensionless time is 2,or about 4000 seconds. Filament goes at least acouple mm/s so the can can't do much if the filamentcan't go above 50C.
>>2822378It was worth a shot.
I have a P1S arriving tomorrow, its my first 3d printer. I cant wait to print gun parts
>>2822458>full retardbe sure to use the right filament
>>2822184I was running a test, it got up to 62C according to the controller's readout, then the 77C thermal fuse popped. It is pretty obvious now that the thermal fuse is in a warmer part of the enclosure. Probably should have gone for a thermal switch instead I guess. I'll replace the fuse, then heatshrink the thermistor against it, that way the fuse should never blow unless it faults.The linear regulator is getting pretty warm though, it's stepping 20V down to 12V with 0.2A minimum load for the fan, more when the relay is triggered. It is right in front of the fan, but not with any heat sink. Maybe I should put a ~3V zener or two before it.
>>2822512and now it gets to 65C in under 8 minutes on a cold day, that's 133Wpretty damn fast, i'll add the other element and see if it's too slow, should drop it down to 109W so there isn't actually much difference.
>>2822183Is there a hole above the fan?
>>2822571No. I am relying on desiccant to absorb the moisture released by the filament.
My friend recently bought a 3D printer and i was wondering if anyone had some exact or close to exact models of any army 40k or Warhammer fantasy to share or anything else in general.
>>2822606>>>/tg/3dpg
Can this thread be also about non metal moulding, casting, and other manufacturing techniques? Surely you guys must use your 3D printing and designing knowledge to then make silicone or plaster molds to make more parts from actually reliable materials like polyurethane etc right?
>>2822506maybe he meant some parts for his existing legal guns such as a new grip or something. Also fuck glow in the dark filament. When I was an inexperienced little printerboi I used it and it ate away all of my spare nozzles and didn't even glow properly
>>2822624yep, we seem to generally accept anything relatedalso cnc.. i dont think there is a regular /diy/ cnc general, is there?
>>2822624TPU is the preferred soft material for 3d printing. Needing cast silicone is not a use case I currently have.For tough FDM plastics we have nylon, abs, asa, petg, polypropylene (pp).Material choice depends on use. PLA and PLA+ tend to be good enough for most light duty uses where the stiffness and ultimate strength is needed more than impact resistance or toughness.
>>2822624There's also a mould slicer setting that I've never tried. Basically it will generate the mould for printing from your desired output.
>>2822649>i dont think there is a regular /diy/ cnc general?EMT is hardly anything else but cnc programmers and lathe larpers these days. >>2822667PLA+ is a meme and an unstandardised mess at best.>>2822624Dunno why PU is the mentioned reliable one, but mean's ends to low end 3d printing is really just seeing if your prototype fits and ordering a PA12 sintered part or even milling the whole thing from POM, alu, steel, etc..
>>2822361Yes, but you're going to need to do several test prints and play with settings to have confidence that your 0.05mm or whatever gaps are actually gaps. You'll also need to watch your travels and seams to not gunk or rough the joint.
>>2822674>PLA+ is a meme and an unstandardised mess at bestWorks for me.
Hey /3dpg/, for the past two days i've been trying to print the voron fanduct for the bentoboxV2 with a voron trident 250mm on a smooth PEI Sheet using Geeetech PETG to no avail.pic related are the attempts after recalibrating both the printer aswell as the filament profile and rerunning input shaper. i've also fully disassembled the extruder, a clockwork V2, and the hotend, a Revo Voron using a 0.4mm nozzle to check for any defects but found nothing. I usally print PLA, PETG and ABS without any issues up till now. In fact, even now calibration cubes come out fine with perfect first layers using the same filament profile and slicer settings (orca slicer). Only thing i haven't checked yet is the omron probe. Do you have any idea what could be causing these terrible first layers?
>>2822696Have you checked, as in looking with your own eyes, if nozzle offset/first layer height is correct and enough plastic is flowing?
>Bought 20kg of pla during bambu sale>accidentally bought refills instead of spoolsAh fuck I can't believe I've done this, no wonder it felt cheaper than it should have been
>>2822723>>2820657>Should've lurked moreTime to print that refill adapter for your screwdriver.
>>2822723>>2822725>refills instead of spoolsWhat's the price difference? I've just been buying $13/kg off amazon. I'm also only printed 2kg total in the last six months.
>>2822729$3, not the worst thing for 2-3 spools but when you're buying bulk it adds up
>fresh creality pla+>all stringing issues gonewell that was easy.>pic rel currently printing part 1
>>2822624I made a 3d print the other day for open mold casting, used lead. have to refine my model and technique further
moderate success
>>2822723but you have a dozen empty bambu spools laying around right? I never gave a fuck about the rfid so I took them out the second iteration of the hydra AMS mod. t. just ordered two $19 refills and added one $24 spool for free shipping this morning.
>>2822707Yes, the z offset was ok-ish. I played around with it some more but couldn't improve the result. decreasing first layer line width and increasing temperature improved first layers a lot but there are still some parts, seemingly random, that get pressed into or ripped off of the build plate. I'll keep trying tomorrow
>>2822809There's a chance your mesh may have turned into complete bogus, but from your first pic i would've straight jumped to underextrusion. Albeit for some reason not on perimeters. Don't know where to change that though, i'm a stubborn superslicer hermit.
>>2822696intermittent extrusion issuepick one or more:- an obstruction is rolling around in your nozzle- an obstruction is being dragged through a bowden tube between the filament and the inside of the tube- bowden tube is restricting filament passage (sharp turns, trying to force the essentially spiral nature of filament into turns it resists.)- extruder slipping- extruder driver overheating and/or pre-failure- extruder loose wire (at motor, junction or board)- nozzle temperature fluctuating enough to not trigger firmware thermal shutdown, but enough to badly restrict molten filament flow.Start by changing filament, if it still happens switch nozzle, etc -> down the line of possibilities.
I can't even remember the last time tree supports didn't break on me, are there any secret settings I need to use in order to keep these retards intact?
>>2822512Ran my yellow PETG for 2-3 hours at 65C in my diy drier, took it off power and put it by my printer to make a calibration cube. I could hear some popping as it printed, sure enough it came out with a suboptimal surface finish, though it's not that bad. Also what I thought was normal yellow is kinda fluoro. It doesn't help that the 65C is measured at the top of a tallish container, even though there's a fan forcing the hot air downwards it's noticeably cooler at the bottom, though that's a good thing for the desiccant I guess.I've wrapped the container in a towel and am running it for 5 hours before printing a second time. Guess I'll want to purge a bunch of filament that hasn't been heated eh, shoulda made the bowden tube shorter.>>2822624Yes definitely. I'll want to cast some solid PU tyres eventually, I'll probably make the mould halves directly out of PLA (assuming it doesn't heat up a bunch when curing), sand them, and give them a clearcoat and mould release. I'll only need to use the moulds a few times, but designing them with 3D printed ejection pins could be fun.
>>2822367>>2822369yeah you're about to put a lot of work into something that won't address your issuesi'd factory reset and start overuh but if you just want a break from the printer tedium then surebut it's not gonna fix your issues
>>2822961i love these fuckersI just use the defaults (orca)But one thing i do find myself removing for small/short trees is "branch diameter with double walls" - default seems ot be 3mm. They dont need to be particularly strong when they are short and in bunches, but for single trunk ones that are taller than a few centimeters you should double layer them.If your bed moves it can also be worth rotating the print to have its longest axis of bed contact in line with Y, to avoid wobbling.
>>2822961and maybe your slicer is intentionally weakening them by fan-blasting/printing them at faster speeds/printing them with thinner walls/etc
>>2822369>>2822983In the end I went over all the bolts and tightened them down. I found the print head to be slightly loose in an extremely subtle way, that I didn't catch the first times. I did all the belt tensioning once again. I fixed all that and then bought the slabs, they won't hurt and they were dirt cheap. I launched shaper calibration once again and the X axis looks much, much better. Still on the fence about the Y axis, probably the accelerometer isn't held properly in the suggested location, I guess I'll try something else.
I'm making some printable tabletop game parts, some little castle walls that slide together with something like a dovetail. What's a good tolerance to make them so most folks will be able to print them?
>>28231400.2mm per side is pretty standard. Meaning a cube would be 0.4mm smaller in each dimension. Though that's for FDM printing, some people may want to resin-print them, or have well-tuned printers that can handle finer tolerances, in which case I'd probably upload STLs or STEPs with interference fits also.Do some testing on your printer to see what you like though, if you have one. Also ask the thread on /tg/, they may be more familiar with dovetails and the like for fitting parts together without fasteners.
>>2823143Nah, 0.2mm sounds perfect, I'll shoot for that. It's the type of game where the pieces will probably end up back in the box an hour later, they just need to stay in place during play. Thanks.
What settings do I have to change going from a 0.4 nozzle to a 0.2? Do I just change nozzle size in the slicer or are there other calibrations I need to do?
today was a mini-krismes for me as I received these boys for free
>>2822915Thanks for the suggestions! That gives me something to work with. There are no loose wires and I've checked the bowden tube for obstructions or kinks and tried different filaments. Same type of filament (PETG) but different, fresh spool made not much of a difference, using PLA gave better results. Maybe it has something to do with temperature and the hot end then? Guess i'll get a replacement nozzle and if that doesn't solve the problem i'm gonna try a different extruder.
>>2821786show me your workhttp://andrewsink.github.io/STL-Twister/
>>2823197firmwareslicer: nozzle, line widthand it probably changes your bridging behaviour, max speeds and volumetric things, so test those before doing any large printsand remember: half the nozzle aperture is twice the print duration... at least
>>2823279its probably just a bit of grit that got static-charge-attracted to the spool and now its in your nozzle. You may be able to needle it, or cold-pull it out.
>>2823223pro tip for the one in the background, look up the suggeested fixes for a Monoprice Select mini, basically the same printer, except it had WAY more people tinkering with it.
>>2823223Dam fine for free!
>petg sticks perfectly to untextured side of 70°C glass bed first timedo people actually have problems with this? or am i lucky?
I had a thought of making a new housing for a cheap android phone I own and making one of the older phones with landscape keyboards that slide out i was thinking of getting the internals of the phone and designing a shell that can fit the components and a small keyboard electronics shouldn't be a problem just though of asking here since Ive got no clue how to 3D print and looking for some help and advice on software and general things
>>2823409I've always read and found that petg is sticky.It tore the surface off my 'polycarbonate' bed surface 6 years ago, and I have no problems with it staying put even when i accidentally print with the nozzle almost half a mm too high. But thats PEI surface, so basically cheating.iirc it should stick to glass just fine if its *actually* clean (some people are savages and have no idea what clean means), and/or fairly hot.I previously used my PEI at 70C but I found larger prints would curl far too often, so now it's always 80C.There is also the experience part; some people forget/dont understand that glass tends to need time to actually BE as hot as the thermistor says: the glass is just sitting on top with air in between, but the thermistor is attached directly to the heating element/aluminium under the bed.
>>2822961double the tree walls, simple as
>>2823223you beautiful bastard. I just, as in literally 3 hours ago, sold my monoprice mini delta for $50 after 5 years of printing. It's been sitting 6 months, I put fresh filament in and it was off zipping away like it was new. I was a little sad to see it go- such as little soldier and the deltas are just cool to watch but honestly I'm never going to print on it again.I also gave one to my nephew a few years ago, there is a real good community behind these. Get some boron glass discs and print a holder, those plates are shit. You can use painters tape to cover the bed until you get something.
>>2823414Fusion360 and any sub $200 printer. Pick up a $10 micrometer while you're at it.
I'm constantly getting issues with the first drop of filament not adhering, but the rest of the extrusion adhering fine to the bed. This is likely to happen each time the print head lifts up and moves to extruder another line of filament, and it's doing my head in.Adjusted z-offset, levelled the bed a million times with the aid of octoprint within 0.01 variance. Ender 3 Neo (POS printer but it's what I could afford). Apologies for the chicken scratch image, but my camera is not good enough to get a proper photo.
>>2823506only on the first level? so you're either not retracting or you're feeding too fast for the first level. there will be some discharge with age, er, or heating the filament regardless but if you're smashing the filament into the bed (properly) it might be building pressure in the nozzle and when you pull out it goes all over.if it wasn't happening every time it would be heat discharge and a purge line would help. every layer would be retraction to fix. for first only reduce your overall extrusion and or change the squish to less.
>>2823506FTFY
>>2823409in my experience petg is super sticky. When i was printing with it on a glass surface i had to apply glue to the glass as a barrier or the petg would stick so well that the printed piece would tear holes in the glass trying to get it off the plate
>>2823508I am retracting, at least I can see that my extruder is retracting, but I suppose I'm not retracting enough then. I'm not really sure if this is for the first layer only, since prints fail pretty quickly from the dangling filament, as it either gets caught by the extruder and turns into spaghetti.On the note of retraction, if I am not mistaken the defect seen in the attached image would be caused by retraction right?
>>2823512Your first layer appears to be way, way too close to the bed, squished far too much, which is why it's balling up and dragging around so much plastic into that mess there.
>>2823513Hmmm, I'll mess around with the z-offset some more and see how I go then
>>2823501Thank you for the help ill look into it my place of education has machines such as 3D printers
>>2823499kek thank you anon, did you upgrade to a different / better printer? And I agree all the Monoprice machines seem to have a very good reputation regarding reliability (which was the reason I bought my first MP select mini / malyan m200) and it has been going strong. Barely any issues compared to the amount of issues I had with my Ender 3 Pro in the past.>>2823375thanks for the hint. I already have a few planned such as the heatbed cable upgrade. And today I will change the bed into a magnetic PEI one. what printer do you have anon?
im having some issues with bed levelling where two sides are inexplicably perched up or lowered, and do not change with influence of the levelling knobs. In red are my clips
>>2823572current printer is a voron 2.4, old printer was a monoprice select mini v1.i realised i'd spent about $500 on replacement parts for the monoprice, so i got it functioning, printed the parts for the voron, and never looked back.
>>2823506>>2823513I've tried this, and the results are disheartening to say the least. If I increase the z offset, the issue I first highlighted occurs. If I decrease it, obviously the artefacts would get. And this is with changes as small as 0.01mm at a time.I'm honestly not sure what to do, and its disheartening since these issues both affect the ability to print beyond the first layer...
>>2823583>Var: 0.144If you've got a plain ol' heated bed like you find on most printers and not something fancy, then you're already golden. Even a glass bed will vary +/- 0.1mm across a 200mm span. 0.144 total is fucking nothing, it's well within the range of what your printer will compensate for almost imperceptibly well.
big skellington for my nephew. Apparently it's possible to paint with a needle
Im a dumbass and didn't check my wiper hook type before I bought new ones, and it uses some bastard VW type instead of a J hook like a normal car. Found an adapter I can print, wondering if regular PLA will be good enough or if I should grab something tougher. If I orient the print the right way I think it'll be fine, just worried about it starting to warp on a 30 degree day in the sun.
Newbie here: do orca printer presets override printer settings? Specifically for acceleration, pressure advance, and input shaper.
>>2822696Looks like a worn out extruder gear to me. Mine was and the prints looked exactly like that.
>>2823506i guarantee its because you have single z rod which makes the unsupported side sag. that might not vary a lot by eye but even a little bit will fuck up your prints. google ender 3 belted z or buy another rod and sync them with a belt. i guarantee night and day diff.
welp, ordered 3 a1 combos to start filling up my garage to go with my a1mini and p1p
>>2823655If you care this much, why not sand it down properly first?>>2823666ABS/ASA would be do all solutions, but if i you don't have an enclosure PETG will probably be still fine. Wouldn't trust PLA long term with headwind and all.>>2823697Yes.>>2823760Some etsy business, i assume?
>>2823781nope, local small business. i want to work with artists directly to produce hueforge for them, work with local businesses, and help teach people on how to run a printer themself
>micronics SLS printer startup bought out by formlabs>kickstarter cancelled and refundedlmao, competition has been fucking eaten
How do you add a minimum layer time in Orcaslicer? The cooling section of filament with the "Max fan speed threshold" doesn't do it and there's no other place that I can find. Do I just have to add a wasteobject to the side that's as tall as the print?
>>2823808
>>2823826Yeah I had that on but it still kept on piling layer on layer on a small print. I'm guessing that if the layer time is less than that set amount it just overrides it.
>>2823829There's also the minimum print speed option. Did you check to see how quickly it was actually printing those layers?
>>2823832https://www.printables.com/model/873904-tick-removal-toolThis is the model I was printing, as soon as it gets to the thin neck part it lasts for about 1 second before it moves onto the next layer.I was even using the 0.16 HQ Bambu pre-set profile which is supposed to be slower. I suppose I can set it to 50% speed but it kinda defeats the purpose of a fast machine, also in the future if I print a large part that has a thin piece at the end I'm back to square one.
>>2823836You can print multiple to give layers more time to cool, you can make it park to meet minimum layer times, you can improve cooling. That you even bring up your "fast machine" really conveys your inexperience. This thing has a tiny cross-sectional area, you need lots of cooling. You haven't mentioned your material, anything about print speeds, you've only hinted that you probably have a Bambu machine and complained that you can't print this thing as fast as you want to.
>>2823838Well my issue is more so to do with the slicer setting not doing what it says it's supposed to do. The layer time is set to 10s yet it very obviously doesn't slow the printer down in order for the layer to last 10s, nor does it move the print head away from the print for that duration.I've gone from tinkering with a couple of enders and neptunes to a machine that's supposed to "just work" specifically because I'm tired of situations like this and I just want a plug and print experience.I'm gonna re-run the calibrations for the filament and see if I can get a "fix" going that way.
>>2823839>Well my issue is more so to do with the slicer setting not doing what it says it's supposed to do. The layer time is set to 10s yet it very obviously doesn't slow the printer down in order for the layer to last 10s, nor does it move the print head away from the print for that duration.Again, what's the minimum print speed? Did you check how fast it was actually printing those layers? The slicer is doing what it's supposed to, you aren't.
>>2823840Min speed is 20mm/s, but surely that's not some axiom that the slicer follows and ignores the previous settings in favor of?
>>2823843YES YOU STUPID CUNTIt's the MINIMUM FUCKING SPEED, it won't go slower than that, it's the MINIMUM. Read the fucking tooltips holy shit retard.
>>2823843Every time a mouth breathing mongoloid asks a question here,1) they have a Bambu and 2) their problem couldve been solved by reading something that was already in front of their face
>>2823844Then WHAT is the fucking point in having the option to slow down printing if it's just going to ignore that? Am I supposed to guess which settings override one another? Is there a settings hierarchy I'm not made aware of?>Enable this option to slow printing speed down to ENSURE that the final layer time is not shorter than the layer time threshold in "Max fan speed threshold"It VERY FUCKING OBVIOUSLY STATES that checking that box slows down the printer in order to make a layer last a certain amount of time, yet it doesn'tI'm not wrong here
>>2823848You need to read the fucking tooltips, they answer all of your questions so far you god damned retard.
>>2823741If that's the case, should I look into getting the Creality dual Z axis upgrade kit, or something else? I've heard the kit has issues with also going out of sync, along with the mechanical belt solution.
>>2823848it's explained clearly right in the slicer, why are you afraid to read nigga?
>>2823848You are very wrong, and impressively stupid.
>>2823851>>2823853>>2823854Oh my bad, you're right. Apologies.
>>2823855Now you're getting it.
>>2823844But the speed will drop below 20 mm/s around corners.
>>2823781>If you care this much, why not sand it down properly first?I will sand a few rough spots
>>2823781>Yes.Well fuck me sideways.
Will the CCP personally monitor my prints if I get a Bambu printer? I'm tired of fighting my heavily modded a8 just to get an OK print and the A1 looks really tempting.
>>2823947Why buy a bedslinger when you could spend a bit more and get an enclosed corexy like a K1C?
>>2823506>>2823508After playing around with retraction settings it has gotten a bit better, but not completely. It's at a point where my retraction distance is 14mm, and I'm not sure if I should keep increasing it or not. Is there anything else that could help? I've calibrated my E-Steps, levelled my bed and messed with my temperature.
>>2823950You're replying to bait, mate.
>>2823852i literally gave you options on what to research on. what the fuck is your issue, are you retarded? i told you there is a belted ender mod and you can buy either sync belt for dual z rod or have them both work with motors. fucking retard
>>2823950>K1Cwhy would you pick bottom of the barrel chink shit when for the same money you can get a bambulabs enclosed printer
>>2823960>why would you pick bottom of the barrel chink shit when for the same money you can get a bambulabs enclosed printerA: you can't, the A1 is not enclosed and the P1S is significantly more expensiveB: both chinkshit, K1 series has more mods and fixes available so I'm thinking more reliable in the long term for someone who's owned a 3D printer before, though personally i'd get an sv08both are going to need some maintainance within 2 years anyhow
>>2823952>14mmhahahahahahahahno
>>2823952Does increasing/decreasing the "first layer extrusion width" have any effect? I noticed that superslicer has a default extrusion width of 105% (or something close to it), to make sure enough filament is pushed onto the bed during the first layer print. Could you try to make a picture of the first non-sticking drop of filament? I would like to see if the filament is squished onto the bed. Also, which filament are you using?
>>2823981Not sure if this will be good enough quality, but here's an example. I've gotten the brim to print fine, but the but curling up is the first drop for the currently printing shape.I'll look into first layer extrusion width. I'm slicing with prusa slicer and using generic brand white PLA. 205 degrees, previously at 210.
>>2822961I've been having trouble with tree supports recently too. I don't know if I'm just bad or if cura updated on me or maybe I simply haven't been printing things that needed tall tree supports.Also been having problems with the supports fusing to the model recently.
>>2823985Yeah, this image is fine. The first layer does not look like a bunch of toothpaste-ish lines, so it should stick just fine. I see that the outline (is that even the brim?) is not attached to the "first drop" of the print. What is the brim width set to? If "brim" is enabled, but the brim width is set to 0, superslicer won't draw a brim at all. I think this is the case here? There is a difference between that outer line and a brim. Judging by your image, the extrusion width should be fine. I would leave it as it is. Try to get the brim to be "attached to" the print, by setting the brim width some some rediculous value like 1cm. Hopefully, this will cause the first drop to stick to the brim and not curl up.
>>2823990I'm pretty sure the outline is what is supposed to be a brim, I just havent changed the default value, but I'll give what you said a go and get the brim connected to the print.
>>2823992>I'm pretty sure the outline is what is supposed to be a brimI believe you, I just don't know any better. Superslicer prints them both, so I just assumed that it's a different setting. I thought the slicers were similar enough. The attached brim helps my ABS prints stick to the bed. Perhaps it can prevent the PLA from curling? My knowledge doesn't really go beyond this suggestion, though
3DJAKE is selling random mystery rolls of PLA for €10, think it's shit quality stuff or just colors no one wanted?
>>2823855We're not beating the retard allegations bambubros...
>>2823783>hueforgegood god that is some soulless garbage if I've ever seen it. you sure you don't want to poke a hole in a paint can and swing it on a rope over your canvas?
>>2824001nta but hueforge is pretty good for manga panels, really makes them pop and it only takes 2 colors so it's doable without an ams
>>2824001it's pretty fun seeing how layering in different ways creates different outputs. the results can look great and adds textures that a flat print can't
>>2823996older stock for whatever reason. let us know what you get.oh also it says ecoPLA sounds like recycled so probably some drab ass colors.
>>2824003>>2824005yeah as soon as you post a nice one I might listen.
>>2823963>K1 series has more mods and fixes availableI want you to think about what this means, and why, and why you think 17% price difference justifies a Creality machine.
help me please, neither my PC nor my android phone can detect the usb to sd card device anymore. Printer can read the sd just fine. usb emits blue light but doesn't show up in PC and on phone when clicking transfer files it jumps back to charge only. Can't find it in device manager. My ghost spectre11 (win11 based costum OS) doesn't have a dedicated hardware troubleshooter. Neither does it show up in formating.Everything worked fine few hours ago.
>>28240063DJake's ecoPLA is named such to attract hipsters and retards. It's "ecoPLA" because it's NORMAL FUCKING PLA, it's not recycled, it's not made in a special way or for special purposes, it's just regular ol' PLA which is recyclable so they decided to stick "eco" in the name. It's their shittiest most plain PLA, similar to the cheapest PLA you can get out of China ($5-$7/kg) but admittedly made with better quality control.
>>2823963just like the regular ender3 and cr10 arent enclosed from factory doesnt mean you cant buy/build an enclosure around if for ~50$ at max (if buying).and when you want something to just work why the fuck would you ever pick a creality. even you said it yourself: K1 series has more mods and fixes availablefixes for what? i buy a new enclosed 3d printer from creality and first things i need to do is start fixing the piece of shit? or spend 100$ more and have a proven and working machine from bambu?i swear to god you people on here just yapp about shit but dont even think what the fuck you are saying in your replies
Recommend a better joint? This is working pretty good but printed socket up 1/4 tabs is breaking some of the time. I'm planning on turning the print 90º and extending two of the tabs (more like ( ) ) but I'm wondering if there is a better snap on joint I can use.
>>2823953>baitNot everyone is okay with chink spyware
>>2824024Readers like that are dirt cheap and made poorly, the slots loosen up quickly and don't make good contact, the shitty stolen clone of a clone of a mass storage controller is unstable as fuck, and the wafer-thin 2-sided PCB is the only thing supporting the USB connector. Poor connection is the most common issue with these, unplug it, take the SD card out, put the SD card back in, plug it back in. Does it suddenly work? If not, just buy another. Don't waste your time looking for a "good" one, a $50 SanDisk Pro-Reader won't last 10x longer than a 3-pack of Chinese ones on Amazon for $5: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B9R7H765/
>>2824007What the fuck is your problem? Imagine an oil painting to your liking. Wouldn't it be cool if could use the same under bright lights everywhere for cheap? Well duh, the technology is here.>>2823996>>2824006Just to confirm; their ecoPLA is recycled PLA.
>>2824040>Just to confirm; their ecoPLA is recycled PLA.No it isn't. Their rPLA line is made from recycled ecoPLA, but the ecoPLA line is all virgin PLA, it is not recycled. >>2824027
>>2823781>PETG will probably be still fineCool, its just gotta last a year or so until these wipers fail anyway. Thanks
>>2824040>Imaginetheydon'tlookgoodno imagination required. if they only look good in dim light when you squint on a tuesday then it's a stupid waste of time and the "look" is 90s bad computer poster art at best and doesn't understand banksy at worst. just because you CAN do it with a 3d printer doesn't actually make them art. Hell the "print a large rectangle with infill X and 0 the top and bottom" makes a better "art".
>>2823781friendly reminder ABS is not UV safe. that said I have a PLA mailbox handle that's in direct sunlight and has lasted 3 years now.
>>2824039thx boss.currently searching alternative methods to send gcode to printer. results read like>get a rapsberry pi v 2.04.1r and install the cura plugin shartfart. Then connect both via wifi and run cocktoprint on your PC. Leave klipper with sneed and feed addon running in the background to check the moonraker.gcode verifiyernigga i just wanna put gcode on device and insert in printer
>>2824047>nigga i just wanna put gcode on device and insert in printerYeah there's a reason lots of people still run plain ol' SD card.
>>2824043The hell? I thought it was supposed to be their final product/resell from RecyclingFabrik, or was that rPLA then? >>2824045Who said anything about art? It just has to look good. Go be a nigger somewhere else.>>2824047Then just use usb/sd card?
>>2824047are you stupid you nigger?you literally just need rpi for octoprint. hook it up via usb with your printer and send all the gcode you want. nothing else you need to do. even a retard like you should be able to set it up since the entire setup process is being handheld
>>2824049>It just has to look good.but IT DOES NOT LOOK GOOD. it looks like shit. again, just because you can doesn't mean you should.
>>2824049>or was that rPLA then?Yup, that was the stuff. The name is something that RecyclingFabrik likes, so there are other brands with their own "rPLA" being made by them, like FormFutura. 3DJake has done away with their recycled stuff, given their pricing I assume it just wasn't profitable enough for them.
>>2824051>i don't like how something looksthat's just like, your opinion man. there are others that really like the look of these, it's almost like art is mostly subjective
>>2824033Make the socket a little (0.1mm) larger?
>>2824046ASA is UV safe. Also if it wears out, print a new one.
>>2824024i got it working now, with cura slicer. But I had to change some usb setting in the device manager, have the printer connected via usb cable. Had to up the data transfer from 9600 something to 125000 or so.>pic relit's a door wedge, this door gap is higher because the neighboring room is slightly elevated. wedge has to be high too.
>>2824045Dude, Hilbert honeycomb is so deep. It makes a statement about holistic open borders.
>>2824051Why are you still being a nigger here? Just because you can doesn't mean you should.
>>2823783Why not go for tradrack? Already enough 2-4, maybe 8 colour fags on etsy. An actual palette would do well to differentiate yourself.>>2824046Sure ASA would be the picture perfect solution, but ABS is still more than good enough for an interim solution. PLA probably won't make it over one and a half years in the sun without cracking. Nevermind wind and hot bonnet.
>>2824228i'm going to look into other mms as i expand, these will be a starting point that i could eventually sell. again i'm not going for the etsy market
>>2821840How well do the hinges work?
trying to figure out how to dimension the vase mode inlays to make them fit snugly
>>2824262layer height? I'd take .2mm off each side and .4 off top and test print. vase mode barely uses any filament and you can get the dimensions down on one instead of guessing at all 3.
>>2824260nta but I make piano hinges using a filament pin and they work great. piano hinge just means a tube down the whole case and backing the surfaces and diameter a little for fitment.
>>28242700.2Looks pretty much like what i have in mind, but i will add in the x/y direction, my last attempt left a slight gap, had a different geometry though.
>>2824298>but i will add in the x/y directionmakes no sense but okay
>>2824237Don't dellusion yourself. Etsdy is just your lowest competitor for anyone that checks your price against "the internet" and we haven't even started on dirt cheap chinese services yet.
>>2824300My last attempt with a different bowl left a small gap between the vase inlay and the bowl body, no idea why, was still usable though. There might be some exaggerated shrinkage or deforming because of the thin wall of the vase print.
>>2824305
>>2824038Didn't that get debunked? I just use mine in lan mode, so who cares?
>>2822707>>2822915>>2823345>>2823726Thank you so much for the help, anons! I've gone through every suggestion and can now achieve perfect first layers reliably again. A big part of the problem seems to have come from the extruder.After making sure the hotend was clean and switching the nozzle the problem persisted so i swapped the whole extruder, now using the orbiter v2, which solved the problem. Top half of pic rel are the results of playing around with the current applied to the extruder motor. I had to adjust this setting for the orbiter anyways so i played around with it on the clockwork prior to switching.The lower row shows the results of increasing the value of run_current for the extruder motor in klipper for the Clockwork, upper row is the first, nearly perfect try on the orbiter v2.I noticed, that i get the best results with a temperature of 260 °C using PETG, which is way too high imo.The revo voron hotend that i'm using is known to report too high temperatures since the thermistor seems to be sitting directly on top of the heater cardridge but sticking a temperature probe onto the outside of the heater core shows a difference of around 60 °C between reported and actual temperature.Maybe the thermistor is damaged?Bottom half of the picture shows groves in the walls of a print. I couldn't find anything in the OP regarding this but i think it might be a problem with the extrusion settings, a temperature or a speed thing. I'll keep trying and testing
shork
Looking for an Ender5 base to finally cure the perfect printer autism. Question is how much are/should these things be worth in current year after inflation and all? I'll probably throw away everything but frame and pancake motor. However having usable iterations along the way would be nice.
>>2824316>260 °C using PETG, which is way too high imo.I used to get best PLA results 10 to 20 C below suggested minimum. The PETG i print mostly now seems to prefer being toward the hot end of its suggested range, but still inside it.In my case I doubt its a faulty thermistor becasue there have been several (>3) in the PLAs case.But you should expect anyhting to be possible. That said: if it works and is consistent just go with it, and be prepared to adapt if things change dramatically.Typically thermistors are eithe rin a section of heatblock thats not really representative of the filament path, or are not making very good contact with the surrounding metal. You could try different thermistors, like buy a couple of batches from completely different sources and see. Or just try a tiny bit of silver paste between the glass and the metal; that seems pretty common these days, especially with ceramic pad heaters.Of course; you may just be using the wrong type in firmware, and the temperature:resistance lookup curve isnt right.Those little nemas are typically 1A or less, so remember not to cook it.When I switched to klipper and setting vref in config files instead of with a trimpot and multimeter I noticed that the default is 0.8A, even for what are normally 1.5-2A nemas. Turns out they run just the same as when i was setting 1.5A. So with this in mind I run my little extruder motor a little lower than its 1A rating too. Keeps things cooler. Overheating motor or driver will cause difficult-to-diagnose problems.Half to 3/4 the motors rated max current should work fine, and just increase it if things skip on fast or prolonged runs.As long as there is no teflon insert anywhere in the part of the filament path thats getting hot: you wont have teflon offgassing >250C. (important: its neurotoxic)>lower piccould be minor extrusion inadequacy, or where the layer starts/stops, or some kinf of filament constriction (like if the spool isnt rolling very freely) etc.
>>2824339bought my refurbished ender 3 s1 pro for 104€ some few weeks prior. Had a 10% off GUTSCHEIN from ebay. The same voucher worked for filament, bought 5kg of creality PLA+ at 9€/kg
>>2824316and btw: white filament is weird as fuck, expect it to not behave as labeled.Black is a bit the same way but probably less so.>lower picStart the testing by slicing it with an aligned seam, if the seam was set to random it could easily look as depicted.Then calibrate extrusion by the extrude-100mm-and measure method, using vernier calipers and some bigass paper binding clips if you have them, but a regular ruler otherwise.Then figure out how to make sure there is zero resistance of your spool releasing the filament (babysit it with hand turning so theres always loose filament available on the spool even without it turning). Tighten your extruder gripper thingy and run a test.Doing the above with a lower vref will probably also be less likely to show the defect. So if you can the defect to go away maybe try a higher vref on the same test, to see if its a high or low thermal/voltage issue. (high=driver/motor heat causing electronic skipping, low=insufficient power to drive it type skipping)
I AM A GENIUS! UNLIMITED KNOWLEDGE! MACHINES BEND TO MY WILL! I MAKE MERE THOUGHTS A REALITY!
>>2824354>Baby's first useful print
Question: How much does humidity and filament saturation level affect bed adhesion? Last week I've been unable to complete any prints at all, and the only thing that's changed is being at ~98% humidity all week.
I designed a circuit board to drive a 20W LED for a flashlight.How do I design a decent enclosure to pack everything in? I'm a beginner and all my enclosures are always square pieces of shit which are ugly and often not very good to feel
SV07 guy here. The deeper I get into the rabbit hole, the further I stray from God: I'm happy to find a very in depth technical discourse online, but I'm extremely pissed it's exclusively centered around Vorons. Here's my latest shaper graphs. They're pretty much the same as the ones before I torqued down every bolt I could lay my hands on. Belt tensioning is a bitch on this machine, not because it's a pain to tension the belts, which is exceedinglu easy, but because it's almost impossible to get a proper reliable measure of the tension. Also, V-slot wheels are pure cancer and who thought they were a reasonable idea for anything that requires even the slightest modicum of precisions should be hanged.
>>2824363Do you have a dramatic, nonsensicel meltdown every week? You're already boring.
>>2824358>How much does humidity a bit, but it probably shouldnt stop it sticking t the bed. More likely you vape/smoke or have sprayed flyspray above it, or touched it, etc.>How do I design Like the rest of us: iteratively.ie: design something shitty on the outside but fits the circuit perfectly. Then assemble and implement (use) it and see whats nice and whats not. Design improvements.Repeat.>SV07 guy here.Experience curve is ramping up hard I see. Nice.>belt tensioningTheres some printable tools available if you really care, the one using the piano wire is probably the best thought out one that ive seen. But that was just something I happened to see, and not something ive thought about for years otherwise, so idk.Generally they are good, unless you find theres some print defect that may involve the tension, then you may need to look into it. But basically they just need the least amount of slop possible when the belt changes direction. But you can be fairly flexible with that. My Y belt always looks like its bunching up very slightly on one side of the gear when it changes direction, but I'm not even sure it is, and not just an illusion, because it doesnt effect the prints at all afaik.Poke the belt with your finger, it shoudlnt be so tight that its stressing the gears, but also not so lose that you can move it more than a few mm - like maybe 3-5mm over a 400mm belt span) towards the part of the belt running the other way.>vslotindeed-steel bearings good-polymer bearings good and whispery shooshing -MGN rails very nice, but still 'noisy' and expensive.>>2824381>You're already boring.dear diarytoday anon was a faggot again
>>2824320would you guys consider this autistic
>>2824396No because I can’t tell if it’s a shark or a whale and that tail is basically vestigial because it’s moving side to side but oriented in a horizontal plane so it wouldn’t provide any forward thrust.
>>2824396Yes.
>>2824343Yeah, sitting on that 10% please come back as well. but considering i get just the frame for the same money from Misumi/Dold, i'll probably try my luck and hope it's just faulty electronics.
>>2824382You show me a single post of his not being a complete bitch on her period and i'll gladly be a faggot.
>>2824396no, he cute
>>2824396I'd sand down layers a bit, but else very comfy.
Orca Slicer's mouse ears brim setting is awesome. That is all.
>>2824448
>>2824417thanks and youre cute as well
>>2824396>>2824403stl? not in first page of thingi nor cults so spoonfeed me pls
how am I doing boys
I've got an old roll of abs that's very brittle, worth drying and trying to print with it or should i just get rid of it?
>>2824553take off a layer from the spool, bend test and pitch if brittle. drying doesn't help brittle and you're just going to wind up with headaches.
do you prefer honeycomb wall or multiboard?
>>2824550sure here you go https://www.printables.com/model/917214-shark-pendant
is 3d printed resin strong enough fore regular ar mag?
>>2824569no
>>2824570thx
>>2824396>>2824400>>2824403>>2824565thanks you autistic fags. also I maded this for you. fuck assholes who don't allow remix.https://file.io/QPg5DmCy9MY3feel free to upload to thingiverse or whatever, I can't be assed to create a troll account rn
>>2824580printables is legit superior to thingiverse and I usually hate creating accounts
>>2824585Yeah but is an "illegal" remix so I expected it would be taken down from printables.
>>2824396>>2824580What did you remix?
>>2824604it appears he fixed the tail
>>2824605Oh, you're right.
>>2824381I spend the week slowly implementing /3dpg/'s advices, then nothing works and I get frustrated. Nobody's forcing you to engage with my posts tho.>>2824382Cool, I'll get the one with the spring steel just for the peace of mind.Small update: I had a realization, the vibration in the Z direction of the Y axis test that was fucking with my input shaper was due to the normal mode of the fucking plate paired with the retarded mounting position of the accelerometer (the corner). I had the knowledge at the back of my mind for some time, but it was suppressed by the stupid idea that the manufacturer's recommendation for sensor placement was driven by some deeper knowledge. I won't make this mistake again. Put some double sided tape on the accelerometer and placed it in the middle of the plate and I got a semi decent graph, pic related. Also, the concrete slabs sitting on top of soft foam blocks (I used the packing material of the printer) did have a measurable positive impact on overall vibrations' magnitude.tl;dr chinks know jack shit, even if they literally manufactured the product, concrete pads do work in managing resonance.
Couldn't pass up the $200 a1 mini sale so bought one and just got another. My two p1's are usually juggling between production and prototyping. Hope to have a print farm eventually rather than these things collecting dust.
I'm amazed by the amount of people still paying for prints out of basement farms.
>>2824649Theres stuff people don't know how to model themselves and or they dont have printers. Theres also some stuff thats just cheaper with similar quality. I have a listing on amazon thats a $.35 piece of plastic that I sell for $10. The only way to get it is to make it yourself or buy it from a manufacturer and to make it yourself you would need the dimensions so you would have to buy it. I only sell about 1 per week, but there is a market for it apparently.I can agree with you on people buying landfill shit, but there are some functional things worth buying that can and probably should be printed. Mold costs are thousands of dollars and you may never see an ROI like the part I produce. With printing its possible. Im trying to enter more of these markets as there is a competitive advantage to print manufacturing. The hard part is finding the product. Had an adapter I sold for the quest 3 that allowed quest 2 headstraps to be backwards compatible and it was very lucrative for its short window of time. Traditionally I wouldn't have been able to fill that gap in time.
>>2824644>Nobody's mhmm>getyup, welcome to 3dp gear-acquisition-syndrome and internet induced autism. It's a good thing.>deeperyup. Experience intensifies.>jack shitright?!Dear China: please build accelerometers into hotplates as a unified component of the thermistor (underneath and in the middle) and sell it to us for reasonable prices.>>2822961>hates tree supportsdo yourself a favour and do some subtle twiddling with these values:
>>2823952no no no no no no no no.Are you printing PLA?Is your part cooling fan @ 100%?If you think you or a loved one has been exposde to mesot helioma you maybe entitled to financial compensation...god damn it, I mean if you said yes to both of my questions then turn your fan speed down to 35% print a cali dragon and inspect it for stringing and how it doing on cooling overhangs, bump up your fan speed by 5% repeat until satisfied with the results. mine is generally 40% and does great, YMMV
>>2824724and another thing before you do that return your retraction length and speed back to profile default.
Any good sources of PET (PET, BPET, PETT, HTPET, HTPET+ ; NOT PETG) than Fusion Filaments?
>>2824726filaments.
>>2824312Who cares, one more device spying on you changes nothing.
>0,25 layer height>2 walls, 3 top/bottom>10% infill>250mm/s preset from Chris Vick>about 35' print time>no layer shift>no ghosting>no stringing>ok bridges>good overhangsTHE PAIN IS OVER! Thanks for the patience /3dpg/.
>>2824726>bunch of additives>highly recyclableLmao. I tried a roll of PET-CF from material4prints once. It pretty much fits expectations, but too expensive to use it regularly. At least for my use cases.>>2824756>one more soda changes nothing.
Has anyone seen someone 3d print plastic car parts and make reasonable business out of it? Is it a viable option?
>>2824778no
I need some help. I tried this https://youtube.com/watch?v=Z0dW5r1EVEMto cut time by alot. In either cura or orca the same print takes 16 hours with the normal ender 3 s1 pro profile. Then I tried to apply his method, made a modified (with my ender3 machine settings) ultimaker profile, sliced it (only 5 hours now) put the gcode in my normal ender profile and started to print over USB. It works up until it starts to gain few mm of height, it goes zooming fast but eventually starts scratching the print. I tried different infils at 99.99% and 100%, worst scratches resulted, from gyroid and least at zigzags, but still noticable scratches. Enabled Z hopping aswell. Should I just accept the 16 hours?
>>2824793now in retroperspective I think I could use minimal infill and then fill the hollow print with epoxy resin, the top layer would need to stay open, walls be thin. Can you leave top layer open with some setting?
>>2824794top layers = 0you can print a series of short boxes (frames) with 2 walls top and bottom layers 0 to see how infills would distribute resin poured in. like grid is just straight squares all the way down so you'd be filling each individual square. it's the "art" discussed earlier >>2824045you can also see how infill % affects the "design" of some.anyway why are you printing at 100%? I've had trouble with bulging but even something like 60% gives a decent heavy feel to a print. Personally I wouldn't go over 80% just for space reasons. Doubling or tripling walls is also a way to make a print feel more substantial. It also makes it stronger.I'm not sure exactly why you think you need 100% infill but whatever you're assuming that gives you is probably the root issue. remember a hollow tube is stronger than a solid rod. (in before the non-engineers REEEEE)
>>2824228>PLA probably won't make it over one and a half years in the sun without cracking.336 days a year facing East for 4 years yanked on by an angry mail carrier 7 days a week. yeah, PLA is shit in the sun.
>>2824802>336 days*sunny days
>>2824802>used twice a day doing nothing>same as wiper clip on a carCome on, anon..>>2824801>remember a hollow tube is stronger than a solid rodGood luck proofing that.
considerheat insert bearings
>>2824726https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FzG6eg3oYgYsoda bottles
>>2824822Go read ME330 Materials and Science Engineering textbook and get back to me.
>>2824822https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/12913/hollow-tube-stronger-than-solid-bar-of-same-outside-diameter-o-d>Strength to weight ratio is better for a hollow pipe than a solid rod." This means a hollow cylinder is stronger than a rod of equal mass and the same material. A hollow cylinder with a bigger inside diameter is better. In the limit x1 the hollow cylinder is twice as strong.
>>2824829When you increase infill the OD stays the same.
>>2824833yeah and orientation matters and it's a layered print not a steel lattice yadda yadda. you're still making the caveman assumption that 100% solid is stronger and that's not really true. You obviously don't understand WHY the hollow tube is stronger which is the same principle as thicker walls and infill vs. 100% solid print. Stop being willfully retarded and go read this book if you want to learn something. >>2824827
>>2824835Who's the textbook author?
>>2824793i will try again with increased walls instead of having infill
>>2824829>Strength to weight ratio is betterNice goal post.>>2824827For what? Vibrations fuck with everything, nevermind an object subject to wind and weather, which is probably written in that book as well. Everyone here should know it after seeing a printed part failing on their machine.
>>2824849scratching again
>>2824854ah fuck it, 9 hours with the normal profile and just walls instead of infill is good enough
>>2824853>Vibrations fuck with everythingwho is moving goalposts now? god you're a fucking insufferable ass.
>>2824861I genuinely don't know what to answer. What do you think a car does?
>>2824341>>2824344Thank you for the great input, anon!After checking vref and playing around with the current for the extruder motor aswell as making sure that the filament path is unconstricted i'm now getting perfect results again. I was able to lower my temperatures for PETG back to where they were before this whole debacle, too.Currently testing TPU and its going really well so far.
>>2824863I have dozens of prints in multiple vehicles. Seriously what the fuck are you on about?
>>2824874Eeeexcellent.Just know that if you start printing faggyfigurines, baby yodas etc, i will disown you.
Bit of a long story here. I'm hoping someone can help.I have a complex assembly in Fusion 360. Hundreds and hundreds of parts. I want to print a miniature model of this thing at a 10:1 scale. It's elliptical in shape. Neither the outside or inside is smooth in any way. Think of a model of planet Earth, with all its mountains, ocean floors, rivers, seas, etc., and the outside surface is a 1mm thick skin that follows the contours of all those features.I've managed to hollow it out cut component count by like 90%, which is a step in the right direction. I've split it into two hemispheres so each half would have a flat surface to sit on and shorten print time. But now I want to make the inside of it solid while maintaining all the outside features. I can't just revolve an ellipse or sphere/hemisphere. Since the inside isn't smooth or flat, and distance to the outer surface varies, a spheroid big enough to fill the inside will stick out past surface features I want to keep; if it's small enough to not do that, it leave a hollow area all around the inside permieter and parts go unsupported.I thought of making a sphere/egg-shape to encompass the whole model, and using combine to produce a "negative" of the model, which I could fill in by intersecting another sphere from the inside, but that doesn't work the way I think it should. I tried using my slicer to add supports all over the place, but some of the outside details are very fine and supports won't print there. I also tried things like increasing wall thickness, but the slicer won't change the model - if it only has a 1mm thick skin, it stays 1mm thick.Any ideas?
>>2824989Put the energy drink down and explain your actual problem with a picture.
>>2824991I can't. It's not my model, it's proprietary, and I don't want to end up in any professional/legal awkwardness.
entredasting re: realtime filament dryinghttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ldRN2B4iJY
>>2824989-export the model to a mesh format, like stl-using a mesh editor, like blender or maybe meshlab, remove the interior surface, leaving only the desired exxternal surface-using blender 'solidify' the mesh, give it the thickness you want at the model scale you want.-maybe even slice it into more acute angular sections so you can get supports into horizontal crevices.
>>2824994model a faxcimile so you can show us, im not sure i understood what you are even describing above, so i had to make assumptions here >>2825005
>>2824994>>2824989draw it in ms paint
>>2824989put the whole thing as is into orca slicer. divide the sphere in orca. keep top keep bottom. pick set on face.orca can also decimate and will prompt you if there are millions of unnecessary triangles. after that you can repair a non-manifold model, which uses the windows service but works better than meshmixer.I used to do this sort of thing in meshmixer, Fusion360 has never played well with non-native files (e.g. stl). but honestly orca has the best tools and handles this shit the best.substitute your flavor of slicer, ymmv.
>>2824764Boo hoo, a sever knows how many Pokémon figures you print.
>>2825008>>2825006>>2825005>>2824991my aphantastic friends
>>2825031>aphantasiaPlease tell me you aren't being condescending and insulting the people who are trying to help despite your weak description, inability to do what is probably a fairly trivial task.You want to print a spherical-ish object that has a non-uniform undulating surface, in multiple parts, that when assembled will be a hollow object with a uniform 1mm surface thickness.Right?
>>2825038and the part you are having issues with is that when you scale it to 10% of original size the wall thickness you want (1mm) is no longer 1mm?Also that you cant figure out how to segment and orient parts so they print with either 1( the stupid-amount of support it will probably need, or 2) the difficult angles they will need to reach to support. or 3) bothRight?
>>2825038>>2825039do you need some time alone?
>>2822506>>2822625my prints finished
>>2825047is that a stolding flock gristol pip?
Having a weird problem with my bambu P1S. I can't figure out if the file is demonic or what. To give some background I bought some aliexpress hot ends with the quick swap threaded nozzles. I swapped them in and did a few prints with one of those multicolored shiny PLA filaments. First print came out ok. I run another print and the nozzle clogged. Fix it and swap in a new nozzle. Original print comes out ok. Try the print that killed it last time and it clogs another nozzle in roughly the exact same place.Im now running the filament on the A1 mini and it appears to be working fine.My thoughts are that its a bad thermistor from aliexpress, a weird bug in the gcode, or possibly the preheat sequence where the nozzle reaches 250 before the print is causing some type of carbonization of the filament?Any ideas? Will be doing more testing on the A1 mini in the meantime.
>>2825054Maybe the new hot end has worse heat-creep, causing the filament in the direct extruder to get soft and fuck up? If it’s a thermal problem like that, you’d expect it to happen on any really long print, especially ones with slower feed rates. But that doesn’t really explain a clog. All I can guess is the geometry inside the nozzle is flawed somehow, maybe in conjunction with heat creep.
>>2825054exact same place sounds like corrupt gcode, but I only every experienced that from sd card transfer.is the nozzle seated? if there is a gap it can clog after cooling the first time. if the factory just threaded them and didn't tighten or if the fit is bad it could be a gap, other than the nozzle itself it looks like one piece.if you do a cold pull (not sure how easy this is on the P1) with light filament you should get carbon if it's built up. remember it's heat, advance, cool fully, then gently pull as it's heating again extracting the moment it slips. ideally this is done with nylon so the shit gets embedded but you should see burnt carbon in PLA if that's what is going on, it just won't clean it effectively.
>>2825058>>2825059So it has clogged inside the nozzle on both the stock and aftermarket nozzles.I haven't taken apart the stock nozzle yet as it could have gotten stuck in the drive gear, but the last two aftermarket nozzles really seem like carbonization. Not sure how to get whatever is stuck outside of those nozzles.Im starting to think corrupt gcode. The file has started out and can only get 3-4 brims before failure. Im thinking that maybe the gcode goes way beyond the max temp and pushes like 280 and just burns and carbonizes the PLA into the hot end. Really tempted to try the file on my P1P, but I dont want another machine going down. Butthole is puckered on how this next print is going to come out. New hotend with thermistor is already like 25% of the cost of a new A1 mini too.
What does the Flow Dynamics Calibration checkbox in Orcaslicer do with the A1 Mini? It just moves the toolhead to the poop bucket and keeps on shitting filament for 2-3 minutes with a few breaks now and then. What is it calibrating by doing this, like what feedback does it get? It's not doing the lines on the plate like the wiki shows the other FDC does.
>>2825045yeah, that's what I thought.No help for YOU
>>2825062So the A1 Mini seems to be doing just fine on the second print.Im starting to think that gcode might just be evil.
>>2825053no i had to split it because it was too big for one print
>>2825005>>2825006>>2825025>>2825038I applaud you, cause i still don't get what he wants to do. Printing a globe is still my vest guess.>>2825082Slice your model with the same settings and run diff.
>>2825082You arent running gcode you didnt convert from a mesh, using a slicer app... *yourself*... are you?I seriously doubt you could toast pla, or any filament, enough to make it block the nozzle the way you describe.Most likely you just dont understand that filament has a static charge, and will attract debris, which clogs nozzles.Either that or you have a teflon insert in the hot section of your hotend, and its been overheated (>~250C) and deformed, thus blocking extrusion....or one of the other half dozen reasons extrusion falters I listed already to someone else...probably >>2824874>>2825090I think we both know exactly what they are failing to get their head around, but we arent sure because we are finding it difficult to believe someone can simultaneously act like they are the expert and we are the noobs, and still not be able to comprehend what manifold mesh implies, or how to do basic support compensations.So, y'know... fuck them.
I'm dusting off my old printer and just looking through some basic shit. Stumbled on Octoprint and it seems neat, but considering that it can introduce quality issues because of bus limits etc. how would you ensure any quality isn't reduced because of Octoprint?To me it just seems way better to just copy gcode to SD cards, rather than trust the gcode commands get through the USB cable fast enough and without interference. I just don't think I could ever be comfortable in using it if there's always that vague risk of some quality issue being introduced just because a small software hickup or something.
>>2825102Run klipper off a raspberry pi, or have a printer board with an integrated pi. Run prints directly off the pi's EMMC/TF/M.2.You could use octoprint in this scenario, but its kind of shit, and fluidd/mainsail are better. Either way; the web gui is webhosted on the pi and all the sequencing of gcode commands is prioritised by the pi. It's the best way. Even if you only have the pi connected to the printer via USB (instead of a direct TTY connection on the integrated pi) it still better than the alternatives.Spare laptop/desktop machine sending USB to a printer: is lame becasue windows is shit, and linux users know you should be setting up a small low powered dedicated machine to do this...like a RPi.Using your active desktop machine to send serial to the printer is "enjoying print failure 101".SD cards are garbage. No sane person does that anymore, at least not after they try the alternatives.
>>2825107>Either way; the web gui is webhosted on the pi and all the sequencing of gcode commands is prioritised by the pi. It's the best way.Yet I still see people on the internet troubleshooting quality issues, this does not seem to guarantee quality. Either with them needing to change USB cables, or needing a different Pi.
>>2825108> introduce quality issues because of bus limits etc. Dont go getting semantic on me, thats a separate issue entirely.Setting up a dedicated server is just the primary step to make sure the secondary issues are the only ones you need to work out, and not issues like why windows isnt prioritizing your usb they way it should, or why the "good" usb cable isnt up to the job, but only on thursdays, or why the gcode on your sd is corrupted if you breath on it by accident.USB pi>printer is a distant second place preference to an integrated Pi, but it is still the second choice, and is still a very good way to go.And dont forget that some people assume problems lie in places they clearly dont. But eliminating all possibilities is still a good idea.You get a far better user experience and control with a pi/printer combo, even if it is just usb connected.
>>2825110>Dont go getting semantic on me, thats a separate issue entirely.That's literally the only thing I'm asking.
>>2825108and the fact that you are interested in octoprint implies you need a host to run it on... so the only really decent choice is a pi.By all means run it in a virtual machine on your pc and connect it by usb. It'll work, but you will probably learn why i say its not idea fairly quickly.If you then have the opportunity to use an integrated board/pi you will wonder how you ever doubted it was so much better.>That's literally the only thing I'm asking.I quoted that and then changed my mind about what point i made... oopsThe point is that USB is the weak link, SD is a much weaker link but still probably much better than hosting octo on your pc and hoping it will serve prints across usb in a timely manner.If you want octoprint, you need a machine to host it. Pi is the obvious top choice. Integrated pi/printer just makes it as sweet as that can get.
Dont confuse people troubleshooting quality issue in prints with troubleshooting their printmanager hosting.Those are separate things.The only reason print hosting should effect print quality is when you use usb, or tf/sd cards, becasue the data can be corrupted or not arrive in a timely manner.A dedicated pi tends to remove the timely problem, and never had the corruption problem to begin with, especially if its booting off a solid state emmc and not a tf.Sure, you will need to learn how the host works, but thats not hard, and once you do any quality diagnostics you need to do will all on the slicing and printer side, unless your pi and printer are connected by usb, and then that *may* still be a relatively easy issue to solve.
>>2825112You keep repeating yourself, but you're the only person bringing up running octoprint on a PC. And you seem to not read when I say people fixed issues by changing a USB cable (to a Pi), or changing to a different Pi. What I'm saying with that is that those suggestions do ensure no quality degradation being introduced by octoprint.
I'm tired.And yes I know.But>ensure no quality degradation being introduced by octoprint.i dont understand... what makes you think octoprint can do this.. i have been assuming it was becasue noobs run a docker octo on their pc, connect it via usb and then wonder why it sucks....and i assume thats what you have been seeing people bitching about, or intend to do.Why do you htink octoprint can introduce print quality problems?
never mind.I dont even know what your question is any more.
How do you restore PEI? I've always wiped the surface with a paper towel and IPA before every print, but lately I've started having adhesion issues I didn't have before with the same settings and the same PLA, so it must be the PEI.
>>2825117>What I'm saying with that is that those suggestions do ensureMeant do *not* ensure. Your suggestions of running on a Pi.>>2825119>i dont understand... what makes you think octoprint can do this..By seeing prints that are worse quality with the only different variable being Octoprint. >>2825120>>2825102>how would you ensure any quality isn't reduced because of Octoprint?
Is there a slicer that lets you vary fan speed, bed temperature etc as you get further into the print? Rather than just one setting at the start?
>>2825122like i said:USB is the weak link.Or tf/sd cards, weather you carry them between machines, or they are the boot disk and data storage.Not the print manager (octo/fluidd/mainsail/etc)>>2825126all of themYou can set them for layer 1 vs the rest of the layers with checkboxes...And/Or you can add gcode to each desirable layer specifying fan speed.
>>2825127Feel free to read >>2825117 again. Can't be bothered to repeat myself considering my posts aren't read anyway.
>>2825122You already have the answer. Engage your own brain, low gear, and understand it.If you have host<->printer connectivity that works then you should have no qUaLiTy PrObLeMs.Recommendation: integrated printer mobo/SBC host
>>2825126PS: writing a script to search/replace for layer-start/layer-end entries in the exported gcode, which you can flag with a convenient string set in your slicers preferences>relevant gcode sections, to add fan speeds/temperature gradients/etc is also fairly easy to do for complicated or frequent settings changes.... like temperature tower calibrators etc.
How can i convert SLDPRT to STL? I read that i could upload it to grabcad but that doesnt work and i still cant download as STL
>>2825135Open up in Solidworks and save as STL
>>2825110>>2825130Boy, do I have a controller board for you.>>2825121Acetone. Lurk more.
>>2825142>acetoneI usually don't trust acetone around thermoplastics. Do you dilute it?
I don't have a 3D printer, so I'll pay a service to print my beading that looks like picrel. is it possible to create those tiny prototypes and what should I expect? which material should I pick and does the printed beads will be dangling freely like the real one?
Just dropped an 11 hour print. Wish me well /3dpg/
>>2825161what I mean is the beads are printed exactly as how it's designed as a pattern that's already being "stringed" (designed alongside the beads as STL) instead of printing the beads only.
>>2825161nope, just nope. you're not accomplishing round beads of any worth. you might be able to get them to pull off cylinder or squares but there is no way in hell it's worth doing on a 3d printer over just buying any of the thousands of existing bead types. and the 2mm clear beads in your pic, just stupidly difficult esp when they're like a penny for 100. not to mention filament colors compared to commercial bead colors. it's so wrong think to pursue as outlined.I've printed beads and made bracelets but I already have a printer, they were larger, themed and matched other things. That's a valid use case. Printing penny a pound 2mm beads is just not.
>>2825163it literally doesn't work that way. you can design flexible "fabric" or "flexi" limbs to make bracelets but pre-strung even in a single color isn't going to work like beads.you could do a lattice pattern and half beads on top. color is still an issue.you could also print on tulle but it's still a flexible rectangle base with half beads on top.both those you're not so much printing beads as a pattern that is flexible enough in one direction s.t. it's more like a watch band.
>>2825169something like this and put a "bead" at each intersection, and it will bend around wrist like watch band but not be flexible unless you use TPU in which case it's only single color and all rubbery.Point being there are lots of ways to make bracelets, almost no good way to make 2mm beaded patterns like you posted.
>>2825167>>2825169maybe articulated like this octopus perhaps? I'm trained on traditional beadings but the work turnaround takes too much time & unnecessary labor and there's just better artist at it, so instead of going the "artisan" route, I'll prefer to be the mass produced consoomer.
>>2825177>I'm trained on traditional beadingsWhat now?
>>2825196What the fuck did you just fucking say about me, you little cross stitcher? I'll have you know I graduated top of my class in summer camp, and I've been involved in numerous secret friendship bracelets, and I have over 300 confirmed gifts. I am trained in traditional beading and I'm the top rainbow beader in the entire US arm decorators. You are nothing to me but just another wrist. I will whip up a rice bead bracelet with precision the likes of which has never been seen before on this Earth, mark my fucking words. You think you can get away with saying that shit to me over the Internet? Think again, watch wearer. As we speak I am threading my secret network of beads across the width of my strands and your wrist is being traced right now so you better prepare for the storm, maggot. The storm that wipes out the pathetic little thing you call bare wrists. You're fucking beaded, kid. I can bead anywhere, anytime, and I can bead you in over seven hundred ways, and that's just with my bare hands. Not only am I extensively trained in unarmed beading, but I have access to the entire arsenal of the Rainbow Beading for Girls Share Size kit and I will use it to its full extent to wipe your miserable style off the face of the continent, you little shit. If only you could have known what unholy retribution your little "clever" comment was about to bring down upon you, maybe you would have held your fucking tongue. But you couldn't, you didn't, and now you're paying the price, you braiding idiot. I will shit beading all over you and you will drown in it. You're fucking beaded, kiddo.
>>2825142yeah, ive asked about that before. Too overpriced.After seeing a BQ nozzle selling for $40 on aliexpress I am now of the opinion that we are deep in a state of manufacturer takeover, where they price gouge us all badly, and design consumable parts that are intentionally just a little bit different so as to be completely incompatible with anyhting else, and then price them according to their weight in gold yuansheckels.>>2825150google "pei acetone"
>>2824724>>2824725Hey, sorry for the late response. I did answer yes to both questions, and am also looking into that financial compensation. I've reverted the retraction settings and fan speed and will be working on calibrating it.Hopefully that helps, but from memory the issue persisted even when those settings were normal.
>>2825349btw the mesothelioma is from a commercial way back in 2000s i wasnt serious on that. Do you mean the issue being there when retraction settings were profile default? Thats with the fan speed 100% or down at 35%?
>>2825350I got the joke haha, just thought I'd play into it a little :pThe issue, from memory was still there even when the retraction was at the default setting, and the fan speed was at the default too, which just happened to be 35% too. But to sanity check myself I'm testing it as we speed, and planning on trying adjusting the fan setting as you instructed.
>>2825349Tuning the fan speeds did not help. As another anon pointed out it might be an issue from having one Z axis motor, so I guess I'll bite the bullet and add another rod to my printer. Sucks because it did work fine without one beforehand but oh well. Larger brims did not help either unfortunately.
>>2825356>As another anon pointed out it might be an issue from having one Z axis motor, so I guess I'll bite the bullet and add another rod to my printer.>Sucks because it did work fine without one beforehand but oh well. Larger brims did not help either unfortunately.anon wait dont add another rod, dont just blindly buy stuff.What will happen after you buy a second rod/motor whenever the motors are disabled the gantry will readjust itself to least resistance, and all that z offset bullshit would been wasted. Now you have ot buy even more to negate that problem, and that will end up being toothed belt at the top of the dual z rods.If you lived in the KC area, I would just give you all my extra 3d printed parts and hardware to do belted z mod for your ender 3, gantry will be synced everytime due to toothed belts and assuming hardware has been checked. https://github.com/kevinakasam/BeltDrivenEnder3
>google "pei acetone"Done. Acetone causes embrittlement, so it's not a good option.
cad'n
>>2825388Fuck off.
>>2825121dish soap lurk moar>>2825126Orcaslicer has a gradual fan speed increase.Bed temp wise it let's you chose for first layer and rest of print I think. Otherwise you have to Frankenstein your g-code. A little more involved>>2825162How'd it go?>>2825211that's one hell of an effortpot
how stupid am I? I printed everything since starting about a week ago without any proper calibration. I thought calbriation is simply level the bed and print a test print from the sd succesfully.So far some prints come out as expected and others fail 100% with slightly changed slicer settings. Is doing the calibration tests in orca enough to be good for most kind of prints? Am using creality brand white pla+ and a e3s1 pro
Upgrading to a PEI bed feels good
>>2825362Hey, thank you for the link and your concern. I've looked into it and made a config, and I might just go with the option you've provided, as another anon has also suggested it.I do not live in your area, but I have a friend with a functioning printer, and in the worst case I've found a regional store that sells a kit with all the parts.Thank you for your suggestion, and I really hope it will help with my issue!
>>2825211AI or not, made me chuckle.
this guy does e step calibration via software on PC https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rp3r921DBGIand this guy does it on the printer (I've the same) itselfhttps://youtube.com/watch?v=VZScw30B4KASo does the slicer overwrite e steps settings if I print other than from sd card?
>>2825428I'm a retard, somebody more knowledgeable please correct me. Read https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#flowThat first video sets e-steps in the firmware as well as setting it in the slicer. No it wouldn't overwrite it, it'll work together. The firmware determines how many steps for a millimeter, while the slicer setting would set how many millimeters you need.
>>2825428>>2825447E-steps is something that should be set on the printerFlow is something that is set in the slicerI personally prefer Ellis' tuning advice over Teaching Tech, it's more practically focussed rather than making adjustments based on things like wall widthhttps://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/extrusion_multiplier.html
>>2825411nobody told me but PETG doesn't get along with PEI and I ruined one printing repeat parts, you can see where it's taken the surface off.I did just immediately but a replacement tho, PEI is the jet. I also got a PEO board but immediately returned it.
>>2825468Overture > Duramic > SunluOverture filament is usually priced on-par with Duramic. Overture is a sister company to Polymaker and sells very good filament. Duramic filament is fine though. Sunlu is random Chinese trash rebranded just like all of the non-brands, Strong CoLi KYUU JG MIK YOUSO COM GIANT VOON ERY DOWORK XIN DONG GRT TEC iSAN all to be avoided and all overpriced even at their seemingly low price point.
Don't forget it's Prime day, I just got 5 spools for $80 delivered tomorrow.
>>2825475Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. For now I found a $9 spool in the color I need so it made the question moot.
>>2825467the kingroon petg I have is fine on my springsteel/pei plate.Do you have elephant foot on your prints? If so then you are probably just extruding your first layer too hard into the bed...or using some mongrelized petg thats not normal petg - which never has problames sticking to any bed type, so doesnt need additional stickier additives.
Imagining i'll buy an MK4 upgrade kit for that nextruder, could the Prusa controller board be used for an Ender5 cartesian system, given new base configuration, or would updates make that system completely useless?I'm finding a lot of information on Prusa having, or at least claiming, some kind of "special sauce" in their software. However besides factory values for input shaping and the obvious UI, there doesn't seem to be too much information out there on what really differs from stock Marlin..
>>2821786All right, I've been an Ender 3 scrub for like five years now, replaced most of the parts on it, it's printing behind me right now, but I'm seriously thinking about making space for a P1S in my place. The speed, multi-material and ez multicolor printing are all more than enough for me to make the plunge.I'm just... kinda suspicious about the locked-down parts of it. Are both hotends and nozzles proprietary? I mean I know there are and will continue to be aftermarket options, especially since they're getting so popular, but what parts should I worry about being more expensive than usual or hard to replace? And I understand most of the good options you're paying for only work if you're using their slicer, right?
>>2825643Also one of my ender 3 upgrades was a Revo compatible hotend/direct drive extruder, and it's been TROUBLE ever since. I've basically accepted that I'll never be able to easily swap the nozzles, which was the whole damned point, and I payed a fair bit for a set of official nozzles. Feeling not amazing about that kind of proprietary shit right now.
>>2825643Go for a Sovol SV08 instead, and IDEX mod it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SncSbWbxNYwThis channel is crazy to me. 127 printers and he has said he has absolute zero idea of 3d modeling. Who is buying all this trash? Surely there are hundreds if not thousands of competitors? Is everyone just undercutting each other? I would be worried about my machines always running and then one day the orders for all this junk to stop. Everyone is all getting the same file and using the same machines.
I have an old ender pro 3 and I need to upgrade to a newer printer for not even print speed but also bed size. I've come across the Neptune 4 MAX which seems like a good upgrade especially for the bed size and price. Is there a better option that maybe I don't know of in a similar vein? Right now I'm trying to print a case I designed for a cyberdeck I'm building and I literally have to cut it into huge chunks that take days to print and I'm just so over it haha. I don't exactly want to spend $1000 or anything because I rarely do print things but I do have a lot of cosplay friends that always need things as well so I'm willing to go close to $500 for a large bed if I have to so I can print for them and myself randomly over the years.
>>2825668Selling prints is a race to the bottom, but even with models going for $3-4 you're slowly gonna make your money back and then some + jumping on new trends early is a boost to your income
>>2825668Loads of people learned 3d modeling in school and will model things for relatively cheap on fiver or whatever.
>>2825660IDEX is pretty cool, and I do think that a double extruder setup makes more sense to me than most filament changing devices, but how much of a pain in the ass is that to set up and run? Honestly I'm pretty surprised that none of the bambus or anything have just a double extruder hotend, would cut waste in half and allow a lot of neat shit.
>>2825645considering that a lot of new printers are running weird proprietary hotend+nozzle combos, revo upgrades straddling the line is kinda positive. At least they're mechanically simple.
I have a Bambu P1S. I successfully printed something but didnt get to save the edit i was making. I suffered a critical power failure and cant find my cad file i was working on but i see my printed file in web gui for my printers sd card. How do i get it, i can only print and delete
>>2825698>but how much of a pain in the ass is that to set up and runIt's probably pretty bad. There's only an experimental mod for a Voron Trident, getting it working on an SV08 would be an advanced project. A tool-changer would probably be similarly difficult.The only reason I'd consider the SV08 as an option is that it's a pretty solid base for a printer, that you can modify with whatever you want down the line. Be that an IDEX setup, tool-changer, ERCF, or the more open Creality AMS equivalent that should be coming out soon.
>>2825670Went ahead and went with the Neptune and I'll just return it if it sucks I guess. I did a slicer test and I can print my entire enclosure in like 10-11hrs on the neptune bed vs 1/4th of it in ~30 hours on the ender...not even adding the fact I'd have to glue it all together after that and sand and etc. etc.
brown matte PLA and dark wood stain experiment
>>2825740Looks like plastic wood
>>2825741I mean that is what it is
>>2825742For sure, just saying, it doesn't look like wood at all if you're hoping that it does from the test. Not that it looks bad either, just that it has all the little plastic divots and stuff.
If I wanted to print this with the green face against the bed, what kind of supports should I be putting underneath those thin strakes? They're 1.5mm deep and 9mm wide. Or could I use arc overhangs? They're viable now, right?
>>2825747Shouldn't your slicer just handle supports automatically?
>>2825746oh, then thanks for clarifying anon. Maybe it gets better if I use different tones of wood stain.
>>2823655the skelly is finish
>>2825750I don't know if wood stain would change the issue since it's just the way the plastic forms/looks, wood just doesn't look like that.
>>2825749I basically never print with supports. But I'm thinking that the normal tree supports wouldn't be very optimised for such a wide and short area, and normal criss-cross supports would be a right pain to remove. I'll be printing in PETG, no dual filament for easy support removal. But arc overhangs would be great if they work. Just tried installing them, but I'm getting the error that hilbert isn't there, and it can't be installed in python. I can't even find a module just called "hilbert". Maybe using anaconda as my main python install is a bad idea?I'm surprised arc overhangs aren't included in slicers by default, it's been over a year since they gained popularity.
>>2825747it shoudlnt really matter what type you use, those are very simple. You may need to alter their base spacing to make them fit a bit better, or the interface layers to make them release.For the last few months any time I have a nice flat surface needing supports, like your pic, i set 0mm support interface distance and put pauses at each layer that is immediately on top of the support. Then when it pauses I paint the top of the support interface with a white marker i got off aliexpress. It does have its quirks that you need to figure out to make sure your layer sticks to it without getting dragged away, but it works really well. And releases as soon as i slide a screwdriver under it's edge. Really nice actually, and it leaves a very flat surface, unlike even the best bridging or normal gap-based supports.https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005020518026.html
>>2825750hit it with a coarse sandpaper or a diamond file, that gives the grey petg i normally use a nice matte surface that is kind of wood like.Even just rounding down the sharp layer lines a bit will help make it look more organic.
>>2825747also I think it would be a good idea to start prompting people to drop us the stl for questions like this. That way we can set it up how we normally would and share the project.3muAnswers by example.Can we have the stl, or will batman object to his analplug specs being released?
First longer print I left unsupervised, came back to this after 6 hours. These are 20 pieces each, printed the same but with 12 pieces instead without any issues except for minimal stringing. Every setting was the same. Was it simply bad luck? I think maybe I should up bed temperature back from 59 to 60 degrees. Or/and add brims.Bed is cleaned, printer is calibrated, nozzle almost new. I hope that fucker doesn't knock off the remaining pieces
>>2825772
>>2825773i just took a shit and so did this printer. this hobby is so gaaaaaaaaaaaaaay
>>2825772PETG? If not, you gotta have a chilly room there.>>2825740>>2825746Could probably do a lot better with proper sanding.>>2825728It's a Bambu. Call their fucking support, nigger.>>2825698Because IDEX is a mess to calibrate and given the average user being a moron these days, a hell to support. >>2825643Nothing on Bambus isn't proprietary. Lurk more
>>2825773pretty much every time i put multiple objects on the same plate i regret it. But in this case I'd suggest you:1) enclose the printer, or keep its ambient at 40C+2) use 80C on the bed3) clean the bed again, after washing your hands and making sure you arent using something like a greasy dish scourer/sponge/cloth.Enclosing my printer made a huge difference to my petg. You shouldnt need to do that with pla though, just make the bed 60C.When you see a print start to lift like that just cancel and fix the problem, dont assume that even if it finished it wont be a completely fucked object.80C bed for petg, and stop thinking that changing your bed from 59 to 60 is doing shit. use 5 or 10 degree increments.60C is ok for pla, but petg needs 70-80, and after finding some of my larger prints curling at 70 i now always use 80.
>>2825772and you shouldnt need brims on little objects like that, by all means use them if you want to, but thats still just avoiding the cause of it. Make sure the bed temperature is ~5-10C inside the filaments glass transition temperature; ie: where the print stops being hard and goes sort of pliable, thats what stops them curling. But you have to be able to keep a few millimeters deep of the print at that temp, so enclose, or go slightly hotter on the bed temp.Depending on your ambient temperature and size of the print you may find no alternative aside from enclosureIm talking about PETG.PLA should be easy to print without curling, if not you have a dirty bed or some dumbass hybrid filament.Keep in mind: magnetic bed sheets are usually only rated to ~80C, so prolonged use at or especialy above that temperature reduces their grabbyness onto the steel plate. 80C is fairly typical for most magnetic materials. So dont exceed 80 if you can avoid it. And check that the plate isnt whats being lifted. Its not in that pic, but sometimes a print will look to be properly stuck down... and the plate will be lifting.
>>2825790creality brand pla+>>2825793but its pla+lmao 7,5 hours wasted. You can only enjoy this hobby if you hate yourself
>>2825772>>2825773Should have bought a Prusa.I've been running PETG production runs on my textured PEI sheet on my Mini for two years now and have never had prints curl up or detach. Bed adhesion is a SOLVED issue.
>>2825796>>2825793>needing an enclosure for PETGhaha what the fuckHow are you people STILL having problems with 3D printers in 2024?? Literally should have just bought a Prusa
>>2825802Did I ever tell you what the definition of insanity is?btw it's not petg
>>2825806Here you go brother.https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-mini-kit-2/
>>2825805>>2825807who is this prusa fag? Nigga I ain't paying 450€ for this crap. Leme repeat, I printed the same pieces with the same settings in a lower batch (12) just fine with zeor issues. Then the 20 pieces print spaggeti'd and lift off or whatever, what do I know this is like my 20th print. Instead of anyone here giving me good hints you fuckers tell me bullshit about petg or to buy a completely new prusa.fgts all of you
>>2825800>You can only enjoy this hobby if you hate yourselfOr just enclose your printer. At some point even the dumbest ender fag should realise that K1, Vorons, P1Ses, etc. suffer from vastly different problems than their cheapo bedslinger. Environment just isn't the same everywhere and really, a tent is like what, 30 bucks? There's hardly an excuse left these days.Bambu had at least that right when they started, but then they gave in to the usual penny pinching morons.>>2825809You're replying to bait. That said your initial picture looked like a prime example of failed PETG, so no really no surprise people took it for.
>>2825809Feel free to continue enjoying to hate yourself :)
>>2825813A DIY tent enclosure will only cause something like 5-10C difference and should absolutely not be required when printing PETG and PLA. Those plastics are literally the easiest shit to print and I do not understand how people manage to find issues with them.
>>2825772you shouldn't need to do anything but you might as well put the bed back to 60C and wipe down the PEI with alcohol*. One piece let go and probably knocked the other piece off. It could be a oil spot from you touching the plate, a fluke in the filament knocking the first piece off or just printing the same parts over and over. Brimming is fine but it's a lot of ass work and worse parts unless absolutely necessary. also consider 20 parts use the whole bed and is more spread out so you're more susceptible to cooling problems. also how tf is that a 6 hour print?when my PEI plate stopped working I just bought a new one. They're too cheap to lose prints over.regardless there isn't much advice, it could have been a fluke or something right there. Wipe with alcohol, run it again and if one of the same two pieces falls off put a little glues stick in that area or buy a new plate. You could also delete those pieces or reorient everything but that feels like voodoo as opposed to troubleshooting.*wipe with alcohol didn't save my plate and I heard it on here so YMMV with taking that advice
>>2825800oh wow it got shittier. didn't see this in the troll baiting. I do notice it's the same two pieces. are you sure they're on the bed? check your first layer in slicer for anomalies. reslice. if bed temp doesn't work try gluestick. re-lay out all the parts. look at the 12 parts that worked and see what changed. go back to printing 12 and see if it works.
>>2825806there is obvious shit on your bed in the center, what is that?
>>2825853an enclosure would make sense if the room is cold, but unless the house AC started the same time anon started having problems it's unlikely to just suddenly be an issue.
>>2825853>A DIY tent enclosure will only cause something like 5-10C differenceKindly fuck off back /g/.
>>2825864printing the print that was sucesful prior to this>>2825865I applied some glue mid print in hopes to afix the failed pieces there so the printer would still atleast wipe the nozzle on these defunct pieces, didn't work out. was to lazy to clean it off properly, only heated the bed up and scraped it a bit. It sticks fine currently and am at 30%
worked just fine, can't tell what the issue was
>>2825939Do you have Z-hop?
>>2825939>those bends in the wire chainWhy are you printing worthless designs that will kink and destroy your wires?
>>2825981Cable chain prints really should have a minimum bend radius baked into them.
>>2825981I asked myself the same, but didn't wanna breach into that chain of comments.
>>2825867>house ACThis is ambient temperature effecting an operational pizeroSimilarly; temperature changes killed a bunch of my prints till i enclosed.Peoples situations vary enormously, the only useful suggestions have been the ones already given: bed not clean, enclose it.Now that we know its PLA the answer is almost certainly CLEAN THE FUCKING BED. But that doesnt preclude enclosure from still being a good idea.
Got arc overhangs installed. But these strange strings are freaking me out. I can only hope those are just move operations. The hilbert curve overhang in the middle there is kinda fun looking, I guess it chooses that when the moves are short enough to need more cooling.
>>2825997what the fuck is going on herewhat are you doing
>>2821786https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eRrggMXFP3I&t=300sIn this guide he says to double click it to select it at 5:01, but it for me its not selecting the entire face. Its just painting an orange circle on the purple face. How come I cant select the entire face no matter how many times I try to double click?
Are layer exposure times WAY lower on newer printers than on older ones?I am upgrading from an original anycubic photon to an Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra.The same resin would usually need 7 seconds of exposure per layer on the photon, but I have seen reviews saying that with the same resin it's only 2.1 seconds on the saturn. That is WAY faster. I assume the new screens are just brighter/more powerful/actually made for printing specifically.Does that sound right?
>>2826089Yes. The LCDs in use now are monochromatic and much better suited to the task. They let dramatically more light through. Makes the screens last WAY longer, and they print WAY faster. With "high-speed" resins people are pushing pretty average printers past 100mm/hr with a little tuning. Even a larger printer like that Saturn 4 can manage 50-75 mm/hr with ease. Shits all over the 10 - 25 of old standard LCD printers.
>>2826091That explains why, when I tried to get spicy today and set my Gen1 Anycubic Photon to 5 seconds instead of 7 seconds per layer, the print failed spectacularly. I get the feeling my Saturn 4 Ultra will be a revolution when it arrives. Too bad I've got to wait a month or more. REEEEEEEEEEE
>>2826093Coming directly from that old thing, it's going to blow your tits clean off.
>>2826001i'm trying to avoid adding supports that i have to later remove from petgunderside image of a sliced model (similar to >>2825747) with arc overhang g-code post-processing script. the arcs are visible in light-pink, the idea is that making continuous concentric arcs you can make large overhangs. the purple brain matter is a hilbert curve.
>>2826093>Gen1 Anycubic Photonpic related?
>everyone says that PET bonds to glass beds>but also that it rips chunks off PEI bedsWhat the FUCK am I supposed to print it on then?
>>2826142>supposed toWell, you aren't. There's a reason we added glycol before dumping it into 3d printers after all. That said glass and properly waiting for it to cool off is the usual way to go. Again, PETG!=PET, this can take literal hours depending on your print.
>>2826098Well I can clearly see with my eye that your plan isn't gonna work.You should modify your model to be support free or just accept supports.
>>2826142You print PETG on your textured PEI sheet on your Prusa machine just like the instructions manual told you and you never experience any problems and can concentrate on actually making something useful instead of constantly fiddling with your printer.
it's over
Printer cadding coming along, now what's the best or at least somewhat recommended PEI sheet manufacturer?Mainly thinking about sticking with 250mm Voron like or spend a bit extra to get a 258mm Bambu like bed.My experience so far is basically just Prusa werks and Creality a shit.
>>2826154What has he donated?
*spins*
>>2826183You wanna mill a custom print bed? That can get expensive quickly. I'd just go with the cheapest option. Not like 18mm will make meaningful difference.
>>2826199Yes! We have a big mill at the university which is pretty open for students, but charging material costs of course. Makes it still cheaper than most offers I've seen from China/Fystek yet.
Some1 have the STL file from "March to Hell - Patreon"!?!
>>2825740The layer lines both make it look nice and yet make it obvious it's not wood. I'm conflicted.
What is going on with my first layer /3dpg/? Is this overextrusion? PETG on PEI bed.
>>2826246Too close.
>>2826246I haven't printed PETG yet but it looks like too close or too hot
>>28259620, 4mm or something>>2825981but it curls it evenly, otherwise it bends mostly at the same spot. I read that happened to some without chain linksleme post my eeve I made for an upcoming childrens birthday my son is invited to
>>2826260Leave the kids alone anon
>>2826263huh? but it's a gift I made as present
>>2826264put the seam on the back, couldn't be bothered to sand it. Filled some minor gaps with wood filler. Simple pastel paints and clear shiny coat
>>2826260Not sure what cable chains you're usually dealing with but yours definitely doesn't "curl" correctly.>>2826264Could've used a bit more after processing before painting, but else pretty cute.
>>2826264>>2826268I think it's cute
does someone know what causes this in the infill? the walls of the print look flawless (used a bit of fuzzy skin on this one)
>>2826269no i mean without the chains it's very stiff and only bends at the same point while printing in the middle section, the chains distribute it properly.could've used what more? clear coat? I maybe spray on a second layer
>>2826272Those look like stringing over travel lines. Your slicer could be intentionally putting the travel path inside the print for this reason. If you want to eliminate stringing you search from that online.
New fan mount for my 5015. >>2826246 was the start of it. The one I was using was a "I need cooling and I need it now" design I whipped up a thread ago but it would seem pointing a 5015 directly at a print bed while it's moving pushes enough air to cause issues. It was blowing so hard it caused weird stringing in PLA. Kinda wish I'd gotten a picture of that.
>>2826246too close, but your brim printed ok, somaybe you have some retardo extrusion based setting that doenst effect the brim, or maybe its just not evident in your phone-tier blurrypixelmass
>>2826272like they said: stringing. Maybe your slicer is trying to keep it concealed by not retracting while it crosses interior areas. Maybe you have an aligned/back seam and thats just where its continuously heading to and dribbling as it goes.You should probabnly adjust your retraction, and/or print cooler, or add some travel hop. But stringing can be difficult to stop when the nozzle crosses lots of walls.I dont like hop, it seems to make shit worse for me, but i do specify to avoid crossing perimeters and go 10000% out of its way to do so. That helps a lot in my case.Also, unless that stringing adversely effects the external wall... who cares?>>2826331strong partfaning requires diligent nozzle encasemant in a silicone/glasscotton sock.Partfanning is only *too* strong when your filament gets blown out of shape or the firmware resets becasue its not able to predict the thermal curve as they are designed to do; as a fire safeguard.
>>2826192>>2820360 *grinds*
>>2826364Looks like you got belts figured out. Thats what I would have chosen. Go wider, or multiple in parallel if you need more beef.Gears would probably be a bad idea becasue they do tend to wear each other, and we already get enough microplastics in our diet thanks to cosmetics and glitter.
>>2826331>It was blowing so hard it caused weird stringing in PLA.Making the forbidden cotton candy is always fun.
>>2826368I was really wondering whether it would work, I was able to grind it by removing the motor and twisting the motor end by hand so at least I know the belt holds up. Now I just need to buy another 12v8a power supply since apparently I threw mine out.
>>2826376You might want to look into the electronics behind starting motors slower and increasing rpm over a few seconds.... while you wait.... I'm sure how much instantaneous torque you will be putting on the belts with potentially a full 96W. They probably wont break, but they might slip.
>>2826364Another jeet shaker?
>>2826385>while you wait.... I'm sure how much instantaneous torque.... I'm *NOT* sure...
How come glass beds aren't a thing anymore? That was a big upgrade I remember doing to my ender 3 years ago.
>>2826398PEI is better, and you can stick it to superior heat transmission springsteel; then you can use magnetic sheets to allow very simple connect/disconnect of this plate entirely, flex it to remove prints, and its probably less prone to having its surface scarified off over time.Glass was always a bit shit. Like pretty much all of the prior surfaces in one way or another.
>>2826398also; works with inductive sensors, and doesnt require clips that are far too easy to accidentally drive your nozzle over.
>>2826401I never once had an issue printing on glass and adhesion. Printers now are shipping with glue sticks in the box so I find it hard to believe it's better.
>>2826405well welcome to the future.Do us all a favour and try a pei sheet before you cling to gLaSs Is BeSt too loudly.It's pretty damn nice.
>>2826406I just got a brand new printer so I'm doing that right now. Just noticed while getting more into the setup and reading and videos and stuff for the past week or so and just in general that everyone has the new sheets.
Not sure if location specific but I just picked up 7 1kg roles of overture "easy black PLA" for $80 on amazon U.S.$14 a roll then an extra 8% off if you purchase more than one. I think its just sitting at an amazon warehouse and they have to sell it off before getting hit with FBA charges. As far as I can tell its just the same PLA with some meme branding on it.
>>2826405>Printers now are shipping with glue sticksYeah, but theres an equally prevalent increase in people who dont understand how clean "clean" means with respect to a print surface.So much so that iso vs dishsoap skirmishes are fairly regular and radicals like JuSt AcEtOnE YoUr PeI BeD guy are appearing.So presumably consoomer brands are shipping glue to offset the fact that a certain percentage of users are idiots, or have actually encountered the fringe cases where glue is required on pei. (severely abused and worn surface is my guess)Not because PEI inherently needs additional stick.
>>2826407Theres quite a lot of improvements since i left 3dprinting for the last 6ish years, it's a good time to come back to it.The problem I see now is that the larger print-focused businesses are making things a little too specific and varied, so part-incompatibility is exploding, and prices are clearly very gougey, but leet-seekers will still pay the money for a hotend that can only use 40$ nozzles and what looks like a generic nema but totally isnt.I'm expecting the whole thing to turn into a shitfest pretty soon, and the key to survival for us users will either be to embrace the greed of the main distributors and goy their overpriced walled-hardware-garden shitfight...Or; to have enough of the consumable parts stockpiled, or hopefully still be able to buy them, so that we can keep printers running and still be able to explore experimental improvements, like we have previously done.eg: I recently bought this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007213804379.htmlOverpriced, but it has some nice features built in....then I tried finding a replacement heatbreak/heater/nozzle ... because obviously.Nope.Theres a bunch of ones that are kind of similar, but nothing I have found that is a drop in replacement, not even on the site of the people who make the fucking thing.So now I see it as a dead end, there isnt much point in designing a mount etc for a hotend that will only work till i need to change it's heatbreak or heater.Which may be 'never'... or may be the first time I run it and accidentally crash it into the side of the bed.
>>2826415I still run a V6 heatsink, that's all my compatibility needs filled. There are good modern bimetallic heatbreaks available, a variety of compatible blocks, a massive variety of inexpensive nozzles, still supported out-of-the-box by most modern extruders. I just can't be incentivized to walk away from it, I still get all the new features I want and still run the extruder fan setup I designed 5 years ago.
>>2826416I feel you. Lets just hope that it remains the case that we can still get these items/this compatibility.I recently found that these new, small, bambu style nozzles are really very good. But in acquiring a taste for them i started to look at a bunch of other newer stuff too. I guess it's fortunate that I did i, and noticed the trend toward incompatibility with no replacements.I do like those ceramic heaters though, the bambu uses tyhe tiny flat ones, but the smartorbiter uses one similar to a fairly generic design that has ben available for quite a while, so now i'm looking for a good direct extruder thats not brandname-overpriced, but still has some mounting compatibility (to this: which I'm hoping I can use to resurrect my corexy)https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006497529062.html
>>2826418Good luck in your pursuits. I'm a big fan of the Orbiter V2, it's a compact workhorse and the simple mounting makes it easy to adapt to whatever, not as overpriced as some of the options out there now. Those generic ceramic heaters you've probably seen like picrel are pretty nice, when they work. I've killed two from two different sources (though they were indistinguishable), both died without any clear cause in < 100hrs. I was very happy with them aside from the abysmal lifespan, I'd love to find a "generic" (M6 thread) option that isn't trash.
>>2826415Most "consoomers" like me are running the bambu labs printers. Have used the p1p and p1s for over a year or two, and now the A1 line is looking pretty enticing. For $200 you get a fast no fuss machine that can print garbage for the landfill in PLA. This is a larger market than $5-600 for the P1 that can run hotter materials or on a bigger printbed. The A1 mini nozzles can be had for $5-6 on aliexpress.Theres a difference between "consoomers", farmers, and the hobbyist that actually enjoys debugging their machine. The OS community will probably settle on 1 titan of the space and that will carry the nozzles or there will be a nozzle standard. For everyone else, they will likely consolidate into whatever the free market deems the cheapest, and highest quality which was creality and is now bambu. Someone else could enter, but right now bambu is running the game. You probably wont find too many farmers or etsy producers that arent using bambu, and now regular people are starting to dip their toes into these machines.I also left 3d printing for probably 6-10 years it seems like, and now its very accessible. Almost too accessible. With the vorons and belt fed bed slingers, and cheap filament, 3d printed manufacturing is actually starting to look like a good competitor to other manufacturing techniques at small to mid scale. 6 years ago this was unthinkable.
>>2826149>Well I can clearly see with my eye that your plan isn't gonna work.Why wouldn't the arc overhangs there work?>>2826246>PETG>PEI>brim>too lowthat shit's never coming off
Im printing PLA on a PEI bed with a brim and im having issues getting the brim off after the print is finished. Ideally want to get the brim off the plate and dont want to leave any brim on part.
>>2826420>Orbiter V2Yeah, those were what i was looking at a few months back, before i bought an ideaformer IR3 direct extruder/hotend. iirc at the time the O2 was significantly more cash for a less complete hotend (no hotend, it was only the extruder). In any case i chose the ir3 becaseu im a cheap bastard who likes to be different becasue massochism.It's served me well, but i'm tiring of needing to design adapters between heater and extruder. The one im using right now is extremely "stick blocks together to satisfy the physical dimensions of both objects and print it"...and thats all.The BTT H2 series has appeal. But after twice finding out that two different hotend/extruder setups have literally no available heatbreak replacements I'm a bit leery.The H2 do have nozzles available. It's a pity that they are very specific $10 nozzle.But the H2 is what that hermitcrab plate is designed for. So i kind of lazy-like it, but i KNOW that if i buy it there would be something that will make me hate it a little too. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006895742356.htmlhttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005554230967.htmlI guess i can waste $100 on yet another hotend I dont really like.>>2826422I'm starting to think that most of the bambu appeal comes from enclosure, both from the POV of aesthetically, and because of the thermal (less curling) advantages. Definitely also their consoomerizing it with help documentation, forum community, helpdesk etc, and overpricing them such that they can survive the uniquely american habit of being able to return products a few weeks later because <absolutely zero reason supplied>.It seems to be working for them nicely, and by extension it seems to also be working for the consumers.
>>2826433fuck me!i did remember seeing that at $40this si supposedly the official btt store too.wtf
>>2826433The aesthetics + the user experience. The average person can probably figure out their first print in under an hour with youtube. This includes machine assembly. Started with a polymaker that was like $10k 10 years ago, and this thing runs laps around it in 4x less time. The wiper function and the bed leveling are pretty new innovations compared to the crealitys it was competing against. Coming from those other machines, its almost impossible for me to have any bambu complaints comparatively. Hopefully we see some real competition though against them because I want to see what gets cooked up.
>>2826420as a j-head enjoyer you might like to toy with the bambu nozzle in the jhead form factor:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006049615976.htmlthe 'new' (jhead relative) bambu long heater and little hardened nozzles are surprisingly good.
>>2826420>I'd love to find a "generic" (M6 thread) option that isn't trash.threadless might be more available than threaded.. im not surehttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006953990964.html>>2826436Yeah, all the reasons i expected but was too snarky to mention before :)They certainly do have appeal.>competitionvery this
>>2826411There's literally nothing wrong with>just acetone your bed>>2826415You forgot another possibility; designing around bigger printer's parts, like we're already seeing with bambu's hotend.Not sure why you're surprised by the orbiter V3 though. Everyone called the clasterfuck that it is right after release. I think V2 went over his head and he assumed everyone will bend over for him again to do custom parts.>>2826433I don't understand this post. You don't know what an E3D Revo is?>>2826432Just wait for it to cool off.
>mfw my basic little models get downloads, and even a makeSo far everything I've done has just been small single-piece stuff, and I've been uploading to Thingiverse/Printables/Cults as individual 3MF/STEP/STL for each size. Are there any best-practice type things I should be doing when I upload? Like should I zip up multiple sizes into one archive for 3MF, one for STEP, one for STL, so I can include a "Made by me" .txt with it, or just keep them separate so people can download only the size they want? What about multi-part models, should I zip them together? Should I make my own (mediocre) thumbnails for the 3MF files, or just leave it as the Fusion render of it that it defaults to? I ain't under any delusions of getting rich selling prints, but if I keep making stuff that people find useful Printables will send free plastic, so that's neat.>>2826445Doesn't acetone dissolve PEI?
>>2826445I don't know why people acetone, I use IPA when the bed is already warmed up and scrub it. Gets anything oily and shit off and evaporates away fast as hell. I'm sure acetone does a similar job but I already have IPA on hand for resin printing.
>>2826447From my personal experience it's best to have both. One all_steps.zip and then all individual steps listed for direct access. Obviously this flies out the window once you reach a 40+ parts project. Just do an assembled step and all_steps.zip then. For selling, do make thumbnails. Normies are always impressed with that kinda stuff and you want to make them feel like they spend their money well.>>2826447>>2826448No. It does make your coating more brittle over time, but for every moron coming with a completely fucked bed>why do my prints not stick???it's a completely adequate advice.
>>2826453I should mention my IPA is on a glass bed, it ain't effecting the coating at all, it's glass, superior glass.
what a nice feeling to print something 6+ hours and come back to my unburned home and seeing it finished.
>>2826456For DnD? I've been thinking about printing walls and stuff to use with my arkenforge TV setup.
>>2826445>acetoneMaybe so, it just's not ideal for pei, and comes of a little like the MuRiAtIc AcId guy, so I was compelled to imply its rAdIcAlIsAtIoN for the lols.>You forgot another possibility;Given that this is all i ever do it's not forgotten.But I guess my point is that this short and prolific manufacturing cycle seems to be catching. If they all ever start *only* making short runs of stuff so they can design/sell/abandon everything to make more spacebux it will be a problem for us no matter what we use or design around.>Not sure why you're surprised by the orbiter V3 thoughBecasue I'm a hermit, I dont herd with the rest of the people who consume 3dprinting discussion all day.To be fair; in terms of the features it has it's a very nice design, assuming it all works, and theres almost no reason why it shouldn't given the functional nature of the features.The only issue I see is theres no aftermarket heatbreaks, and the one they use is unlike any other I have found. I cant even chop up an existing one to adapt. It's almost like they did that on purpose. Or more likely: they only think as far ahead as releasing and selling their entire stock to 2nd parties before they move on and never look back. Like MKS does with its integrated CPU printerboard operating systems.>I don't understand this postJust bitching at their nozzle prices. It seems to currently be the fashion to make integrated nozzle/heatbreaks, which massively increases the cost of them. Boo hiss!That said: I'm ok with the more expensive black (steel?) version that allows using separate 4mm nozzles. Still too expensive, but at least I can ...or at least i hope i can, does anyone know... use my old bambu nozzles and it can therefore be fitted with sizes outside the 4 available for the revo (0.25, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8)https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006907981707.html
>>2826456ik right? I felt similar when I left overnight prints run on my back then Anet A8 made out of wood. I did not except to be still alive the next morning
>>2826278>>2826358hm I think you are right guys. These don't happen when I use Gyroid infill for example.
>>2821786I'm planning on 3D printing some Aquarium ornaments, should I do a low infill and try to fill it with water via holes at the bottom or should I go for 100% infill? It's a large castle so if I do 100% it'll cost me over 1kg of filament
>>28264833D printing aquarium stuff is usually a bad idea. Some plastics aren't dense enough and will float, some will leech toxic stuff and kill your fish. Prints are rarely watertight without some kind of coating to seal them, meaning water can get in and provide a nice area for nasty stuff to grow, which might swell a bit and separate your layers, or just be a good host for stuff to gunk up your tank (but not have enough water flow through the print to let the filter clean it out, so it just acts as a host). And that's before you get into any water treatment chemicals that might get used in the tank.If you're going to do it, I'd say use generous holes, make sure there are some at the highest point to let any air bubbles out, and use some substrate to weigh it down.
>>2826485Ah alright sounds good, I'm currently testing a print now the first one floated to the top but with a spiral infill and holes at the bottom with dirt covering it's base this one is staying down. I print with PLA should I try and coat the finished print in anything?
>>2826486Eh, after poking around /r/aquariums a bit, I might have overblown the worry. Everything I said is something to consider, but there are a lot of posts about 3d printing stuff and folks seem to generally think it's fine as long as some precautions are taken. Also someone used floating plastic to print an undersea mine, so that's neat. I'd just look around https://old.reddit.com/r/Aquariums/search?q=print&restrict_sr=on&sort=relevance&t=all some, Reddit is always super autistic about things, they'll know. Quantity matters too, something like this taking up the entire tank is gonna be a lot more of a concern than a couple floating undersea mines.
I'm using meshroom to make a 3d model of some stuff, and I'm having an issue with meshfiltering node. It seems to not be able to find the mesh generated in the mesh node immediately before.I've never had this issue before, but I also decided to use a stupid number of images this time (322) and the meshing node took a bit over 8 hours to finish (most of that was because it didnt have enough ram and was non-stop swapping data in and out of the page file instead of doing actual computation. For years I've been wondering what the hell you could possibly need more than 16 GB of ram for, and now I know) Also, apparently the meshing node was set to output in gLTF format (I thought it was in obj) and I have no idea if that makes a difference.Any idea what the issue is or how to fix it? A quick search online didnt turn up any immediately obvious cases of this happening before.
>>2826490Thanks! here's what I'm planning on putting in my tank:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:862724/files
>>2826462>V3Electronics is a bit lackluster, cooling solution is up to yourself, but most importantly he completely skipped bed levelling when most expected a strain gauge or some kind of integrated solution other than "but a beacon fits beneath". Plus the amount of custom parts..I deep dived into 3dp news quite a bit back then due to excitement over the Magneto X(Look where that got me) and while it wasn't a pitch fork reaction, a few people on tfdm did question if it even was designed by the same guy at all.. >RevoIt's all so cumbersome since Sanjay died, they're obviously trying to balance industry and consumer market and failing hilariously to position themselves clearly in either. With that in mind, it barely surprises what they're doing now.That said, why bother with a Revo adapter at all? Unless you "need" quick nozzle changes ("Beware you might still need to readjust offset, especially with clones), get a chimera mod, pic rel, and use the off the self nozzles you seem to prefer anyway..>>2826490>Reddit is always super autistic about things, they'll knowLmao
>>2826485Not him but aren't PETG and TPU food safe? Or alternatively use resin printed parts for the aquarium?
>>2826500PET is, by extension I would assume PETG is, and I don't know about TPU. They didn't say what they were using. All the problems I mentioned are solvable, just things to consider.
>>2826472Based a8 chad, we're a rare breed
has anyone here managed to make money 3d printing? like commercial usage or printing for industries with a pro printer? or is it a pipe dream
>>2826643You can make money if you've got a product to sell.Otherwise not.
>>2826646was thinking that just printing shit and trying to sell it probably wont fly, barely any niche left out there
>>2826648sell parts on ebay, steal the model of sucessful things like Y adapter or whatever and undercut. Only print the actual thing if somebody buys it, send out with slight delay if you can't keep up
>>2826643I'd say no, but somehow all this etsy shops selling trinkets are still there. So maybe?
"Get a 3D scanner" they said. "It will be so much more accurate and easy to use and faster than photogrammetry" they said.Honestly this alone was worth every penny I paid for this thing.
ender3 s1 pro can print at 110-160mm/s and travel 5000mm/s nowhttps://www.reddit.com/r/Ender3S1/comments/1e6hh4s/upgraded_from_the_nov_22_firmware_to_the_most/>inb4 eeewww reddit
>>2826483what >>2826485 saidBut if you must, and i',m kind of curious to find out at your expense, you should use an infill like gyroid, becausue it can be filled with water/sand/etc from a hole at the top of the print. After print completion.Theres also a bunch of infills that dont have horizontal sealing, like grid/honeycomb etc, which you could use to fill the print *near* completion by pausing and pouring in the fill across the entire top opening.The latter method would probably work most easily with an adaptive infill, which is almost non existant at the bottom of a print, and only starts to propogate when there is a 'roof' to support. So pause and pour before that starts.>>2826491I dont know. But as i understand it you can repeat the processing of any single node along the flowchart, so maybe just re-initialise the project at the node prior to the issue?afaik obj is the default, so maybe that gltf is just an intermediary format?
>>2826496>v3*oh well* just another component i may or may not ever use.>revoyeah, i got the mostly useless vibe too.I mean if you need the nozzle to be hot before it even releases.... how is a finger-tight nozzle all that useful anyway?I opted for the e3d V6 style heatbreak on the more conventional H2 with a partfan kit. I can see if it would accept the revo nozzle after I get my hands on it. But I do want to convert it to ceramic, so after a quick look it seems there are some options using a v6 heatbreak as the main connection dependency.>pic relnopic>>2826671ah ha! youre back.Give me all the spergy details and dear diary entries. (concrete dragon guy here)
>>2826679>nopicDear diary, today OP wasn't a moron. It was me.
Any idea why this is happening halfway through my print? It's just suddenly going "oh I'm now going to continue from this layer onward a few inches south." wtf?
>>2826730That's a nice big layer shift. It's likely the print head caught on something while moving, like the edge of the print curling up or something like that, and the either the belt or the stepper itself on the y-axis skipped a ways until the nozzle melted whatever it was caught on. If you were near it the whole time and didn't hear a horrible but brief grinding sound, then probably the stepper itself. Layer shifting is a pretty common problem to encounter, especially with bedslingers, look into it and you'll find plenty of discussion around common causes and solutions.
>>2826730Google layer shift.
>>2826733>>2826734Yeah I've been trying to look it up but I don't believe it's actually hit anything? The print is solid to the base and no issues with layers or adhesion.It's a neptune max 4, my current check is I'm updating to the latest firmware which is one version higher because I'm not sure anything is catching?
>>2826735Also, it happened on two prints in the exact same spot which makes me think it's the machine/slice.
>>2826735>>2826738>I don't believe it's actually hit anything>it happened on two prints in the exact same spotSo which one is it? Anyway, level your bed.
>>2826744It's shifted during the same print in the same spot, but I haven't noticed it hit anything. The layer just shifts and it is level. Pic related fiesta layer smoothness.
>>2826735pro tip anon, look at the direction its shiftingthe bed that failed to move backwards, so the printer THINKS its printing further back than it is. so probably somethings catching the bed as its moving backwards at that height, check your wires, see if they catch at those heights, check the belt underneath too, it may be loose, literally just print a tin tall item and WATCH the print at those levels, maybe your Bowden tube flips over at those heights and JUST catches the back corner of the bed.99% sure this is a mechanical issue not a software issue.
>>2826748My nigga with the 10/10 here
>>2826748Thanks, that's the conclusion I've come to as well. I think the belt was maybe too tight. I just finished pulling the cable back further as well as it was kind of hanging loose and could be tightened.
Is there a list of the most common screws, nuts, bearings, and bolts that might be considered "standard" for most prints you can find online?I'd like to keep a bulk supply of them around so I don't just have to go down to the hardware store every time a project or experiment calls for particular bits that I do not have
>>2826757i usually just buy bulk m3 bolts, from 6mm to 20mm.but really, the trick is just to look at a project before you print it, and buy more than you need so you have spare for the next project.
>>2826758excellent start, thank you. Is there a go to source for larger quantities of them?I wouldn't mind finding a store that has troughs of them you can scoop out and buy by the gram like a candy store, but getting a heavy box from china in a month sounds fine too.
>>2826761americans seem to like mcmaster, australians are closer to aliexpress.M2, M2.5, M3, M4, M5 and maybe M6 are most useful, centered around M3....in the various head types: usefulness to me is generally: cap, wedge, flat, all of which have hex sockets....and nickel plated or high tensile (black) is fairly moot unless you have a specific high tension application and can tolerate them rusting. Disregard bullshit like titanium.Things to keep in mind is that the box 'assortments' on aliexpress include washers and nuts in the 'count' of included fixings. So while a box in each M-size that includes nuts and washers is a good idea, you generally want the kits that have the fewest possible nuts/washers.Recently it seems ot be getting difficult to buy anyhting but the ones all the normies buy, often which isnt a good selection, or *always* includes nuts. Previously there was more variance.You can get individual diameter/lenghts/head types in packs of ~50, they can be a good idea for more uses sizes, or extra long sizes.Hex nuts are ok, but if you intend to use them prints square nuts are much better. Most people havent realised this yet, but trust me on that.They are also cheaper and available in several size variations for each M-size.Pretty much everyhting iv'e ever printed that involved assembly is covered in rectangular holes, into which drop a square nut and bolt somehting into it. MUCH stronger and more versatile than inserts, plus if you are lucky you can reuse them if the part get superseded. But if not they are cheap, so who cares.
>>2826761Then theres heat-insertable nuts. These are ok, but frankly they piss me off a bit and theres only a few applications/sizes/depth combinations that are very strong.You can use a tapering soldering iron tip to put them over,and inser them that way, but theres also tip sets designed to have one part attached to the iron like you would a normal tip, and then you screw into that the desired tip for the nut size you use.Beware of kits that are stupid enough to say a 3mm diameter tip can be used on an M3 nut...they cant. Check for the ones that show diameters of the tips, and make sure that they are slightly smaller than the nut they are used for.This one does: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005962679263.html
square nut application is typically like this:
>>2826761when you get to about 10Kg of fixings... you will probably have a good selection on hand :}
>>2826761You should have some sort of store in your local major city (if you don't live in one). Like a fastenal or something similar. You can basically order a full setup through them fyi.
My laptop's keyboard broke and i saw a post online about someone who had the same problem so they made a case for their own laptop's motherboard so that it can have a mechanical keyboard in it. I'm considering doing the same
>>2826781Love me heat inserts, simple as. Less than M3 but on the opposite site of the print, but they're still far superior to >>2826782 which turn every project into a finicky mess.
>>2826797>turn every project into a finicky mess.show us onealso: sounds like a skill issue
>>2826761>>2826780Also make sure you get sets with really long ones too. For most real world applications you need the long ones and not those really short ones that come in most of these sets
>>2826801Easy. Now show me one where it doesn't.
EU bros what's your go-to brand for filaments?
jeez, would've been finished twice with my 150% Mini 13 if it wasn't for the failed prints. I always underestimate mechanical prints
>tfw have ancient machine>tfw megatronics v3 board>tfw some cables too short>tfw 24-pin tough connector and some cables>tfw soldering iron>tfw somebody stole the rig I made specifically for soldering cables>tfw nobody knows where to find itI JUST WANT TO PLEASE THE MACHINE SPIRIT, BUT THE HUMAN SPIRITS DISPLEASE ME
>>2826447>Are there any best-practice type things I should be doing when I upload?Follow-up question, should I upload makes of my own stuff? I'm not sure if it's seen as spam, or if it's a good idea since it draws more eyes to the thing.
Hey bros, just chiming in reminding everyone that a break when you want to do nothing more but turn back time to before you bought the overly complicated 3D printer is some serious therapy. Took two months off after finally figuring out some dumb bullshit and getting burnt out in the process and now just watching my crystal dragon properly print is peaceful in itself.
>>28268633DJAKE has been good to me but it's kinda priceyElegoo is relatively cheap and works well but few colorsBambu is fine, but I've only tried it on their printers with their presets
>>2826753Looks like either the belt, cable having too much room, or firmware was the issue. We Gucci now boys.
Printed a new hinge for my folding futon frame. Not sure if will hold up, It made a cracking sound when I was flexing it.
>>2826960Another pic. It is printed in overture nylon.
>>2826955Thank'd and check'd. By the way, at what point would you consider a spool pricey? A quick search on Amazon and filament seems around 15~25€/kg, while aliexpress is about 10~20€/kg shipped from Europe (and takes 10 days to ship).
>>2826960>>2826962You could have done a print in place hinge, so you have plastic on plastic instead of making them run on the bolt's thread.
>>2826979You made me think about it and I came up with a new design. I will use it if the current design fails.
need /3dpg/ recommendation for a motherboard:-integrated/CM SBC-integrated CAN bus-EMMC, not this tf bullshit-5 drivers, ezdriver style would be nice-klipper, obviouslyIs there any printer-specific linux fork that actually gets maintained and works nicely on <your suggestion>?
are DIY printers still worth it? on the other hand, im already sick and tired of calibrating my ender 3. should i just buy a chinklab and be done with it? not very fond of buying overpriced closed source shit.
>>2827018nothing is closed source if you can remove its motherboard and something opensource fits the space.
>>2827018I wish I bought 3 Ender 3 V2 S1s instead of a V400. They are so damn nice compared to the fuckfest that is the ender 3. It caused biblical nerd rage after upgrading the motherboard and printing a new chassis for the hot end that I would have spent the same amount on an infinitely faster printer with no bullshit.
>>2827018Compare the cost of a DIY voron to an sv08.
>>2827021Harder to do with AI LIDAR cameras and all that bullshit. Might be doable for the popular printers (the X1C has reverse engineered firmware), but it’s a lot of effort to reverse engineer high bit-rate protocols and build up the firmware and hardware requirements for them to run. Unless it just happens to plug right into the raspi camera plug.
>>2827030I don't gearfag like I used to, so i'm not even familiar with what all the new shizz looks like, have people taken photos of the boards or done teardowns yet?That said; one of the things i did see relating to the bambu lidar was challenging if it even did anything.Even a jailbroken os that doesnt include 1 or 2 more abstract whistles is still a good deal as long as the normal bells and whistles are available. Like mesh and autoleveling, neither of which need lidar.If bambu doesnt use a csi style connection... what does it use? USB?Has anyone seen a source where i could see the guts of some of these machines?
>>2826780>>2826781>>2826787>>2826788>>2826819Thank you very much, >>2826787 in particular for showing me exactly what I want for myself
>>2827049np :)lol, writing extended posts like that always feels a bit excessive, but I appreciate it when people go full retard in response to my questions.People probably said similar (less detailed) things to me when I was starting out, but it feels like the only people who do now are doing it exclusively for monetization or upvotes .Also: dont forget brass and nylon standoffs, if you intend to ever mount a pcb or raspberry.
>>2827049I agree, mostly.I cant even remember what exactly but I specially bought a bunch of M3, 50 up to ~100mm in ~10mm increments for a particular object, but in general I dont find I need to do that. They are buried in my fastener boxes so deep I havent even seen them for years. But my M3 boolean template indicates I have all of these. The long ones are always high tensile, and tend to be somewhat overpriced simply due to scarcity of sellers bothering to sell them, and freight, i guess.M3x10, 12, 25 & 30 are the ones I have had to repopulate most.M4x10 if you are using 20mm aluminium extrusion and hammernuts... ie: building a corexy... probably a bunch of M5x10 too.M3 square nuts, ive used a shitload, sometimes i seal them into a print, or tighten them so hard they manage to rotate a little and never come out again. The bolts i remove, but the nuts are sometimes too much hassle.>>2827049PS: its a good idea to record, as a text file, or a model that you use. So you know to look harder if you cant immediately find them. Waiting for things to arrive when you assume you dont have one and buy it online is the leading cause of forgetting what you bought it for.I have a set of boolean objects I use for making holes in models, it also represents what I should have available. This is M3 cap head
Ok guys I have a TPU question.I've figured out I need a bigger nozzle and print it really slowly(I'm using 1mm nozzle at 25mm/s) as well as disable print cooling, but I have 2 issues to resolve and not that much filament to do it trial and error way.First of them is wall adhesion, the layers of the wall easily separate, this is not that big of a deal for what I want to do with it, but I want to know how to fix it for when I will need it to be strong.Second is probably related - the top surface lines are way too thin to well, form a surface. It's kind of a mesh instead.
>>2827018Frankly speaking even ender 3 v3 would do well as an upgrade. Older versions just lack some frankly speaking basic features. No auto bed levelling, no direct extruder, I think the v2 didn't even have PEI bed which is just ridiculous.
2 weeks, 548 / 132Not a bad thread.Get the fuck out.>2827075>>2827075>>>2827075Fucking go>>>2827075>>2827075>2827075The fuck is wrong with you>2827075>>2827075>>>2827075Get dat bread>>>2827075>>2827075>2827075
>>2826863I've been using Devil Design filaments that I can buy from a local store. They're 22,90€ a piece for 10kg so not the cheapest but I can't complain otherwise.
