Post your projects and questions!Some resources> YouTubeSellers, Krueger, Stumpy Nubs, MatthiasWandel. Hookedonwood if you’re rich enough.> Reading / other mediaVic Tesolin, Tage Frid, Joshua Klein, woodgears.ca> House building / FramingCraig Jacobs, Larry Haun> Old but good plans for a lot of homestead related structureshttps://www.ndsu.edu/agriculture/ag-hub/ag-topics/natural-resources-and-facilities/facilities/building-plans
My 3" Machinist square arrives today or tomorrow and when it does I'm going hunting for used a table saw. Maybe a bandsaw too, as a treat.
What is the best book about woodwork? I want to learn about construction techniques for both bench joinery and buildings.I'm already pretty proficient, but I want to learn more and I am going to become a master carpenter/joiner/woodworker. Maybe even start a carpentry business. I love working with wood and it's something I've done my whole life but never gotten really good at ... but it feels like there's nothing else I could do without spending a lot more time to learn the kind of foundation which I already have in woodwork.
So I screwed up. Halfway through I noticed I way overestimated the stiffness of the frame and no additional support is going to fix it. So I decided to skip the solid top and make it a table instead, better luck next time
Is there anywhere else to buy flexible tambour wood that isn't $20/sqft
>>2822815Why not add two parallel beams on the base running long ways? Or is it where the legs meet the surface that flexes the most?
>>2822815Triangles, my man. Think in terms of triangles.
>>2822847Make your own?
>>2822848The problems I identified so far is that the legs bend along the short axis, mostly at the joints, and both legs and horizontal supports twist easily. So the top wobbles side to side and in rotation. I guess an extra horizontal support and bolting it to the floor could reduce that but it’d take at least 4 or 5 2x4s to fix that, and I’d rather use them for a stronger design instead but>>2822853Now that I think of it I could ask diagonal pieces of sheet in the corner. It would be ugly but if it works…
>>2822878Generally, we just put a single diagonal 2x4 from the top back corner to the bottom back corner.
r8 my first completed project. It took me way too long to make.
>>2822878A triangle can't be crushed without destroying the material. A rectangle is trivial to distort. Any rectangle you don't want to distort should be split into triangles.Personally, I'd put a 2x4 brace at the 2 corners you drew in. That will handle length-wise swaying. Then test width-wise swaying. You might need diagonal bracing between the legs to fix that. Then test if the thing will rack (ie, the top board will twist vertically) and brace to fix that.
So I made a camper in the back of my truck under a truck cap. Has a pull out drawer on the left side, but I stupidly made it so the last panel would screw into the end grain of the plywood.Which immediately fell off when I closed it.What's the best plan of action to finish it off?
>>2822966Barrel nut
>>2822966Toggle latches would work too if you just want it to be a panel you can take on and off.
>>2822953Looks good, well done.
>>2822999>>2823031Rad great advice thanks
>>2823036Thanks, I still need to add some things to it like casters but I'm pretty happy with it.
>>2822861That's like making your own thread so you can sew something. Too tedious of a task for my overall project.
4chan has turned into fagbook
Thinking of making some dry storage shelves for my basement. I have never done this but would like to work my way up to real bookshelves and thought this would be good practice. Is this hard? Will I want to kms?
>>2823231Like wall mounted shelves or self standing shelving racks? Either way go for it, don’t overthink it, static loads aren’t that difficult
>>2823255Self standing. My basement isn’t framed due to the age of the house so I don’t want to hang shelves on anything.
>>2822953Nice Roubo anon>>2823174Nahhh bruh the boomers made it to 4chan I'm dead cuh
do books about woodwork even exist?
>>2824383No, and anyone who tells you otherwise is lying.
Currently in the process of making this. Adding storage under the seats with hinges so the bottom lifts up. Would I need to reverse the cushions so it lifts properly? As in make the back cushion go all the way down and then have the bottom cushion butt up against the back cushion? Or would the pictured configuration still lift?
do woodhorses really have to be triangle in shape what if i make them inverted T shape
>>2824743Thats a superior design actually
>>2824614It depends what you make the cushions of. Most thinner pillows will buckle easily and if you put the hinges a few inches in front of the back rest it will be easierBut if you put the hinges where the back rest meets the seat it will probably suck as you squeeze the cushions together in the corner so you’ll always need one hand to push the seat up (had one like that when I was young) and reversing won’t fix that I think. Reversing them also will create a crack that a lot of shit can fall into. If you can fix the back pillows you could also make it so that the rear side of the seat goes down when hinging, then it should go smoothly
>>2824743
I'm currently making a bed. Turns out it squeaks when I sit on it. What can I do to get rid of the squeaking?
>>2824872Don’t sit on it. You should be laying on it
>>2824872Squeaking usually results from movement of the fasteners, especially in the wood. How exactly are you jointing and assembling it?
>>2824743https://smallboatsmonthly.com/article/krenov-style-sawhorses/
>>2822773Nice pic, OP.>>2822953That is awesome, I would be very proud if I had made it.>>2823231Go for it dude, here are some optionshttps://housegrail.com/diy-2x4-shelving-plans/
>>2824968Those brackets are kind of overkill, a couple of these in each joint and it'll be rock solid.
I want to make a floating shelf with embedded lights, and my only power tool is a hand drill. I need a way to cut a slot in the back of the shelf to neatly run cables in, do they sell jigs or anything so I could run the drill as a shitty router, or what should I do? Buy a chisel? I also know jackshit about woodworking if that's not obvious, planning to use some 1 inch thick laminate board that's pretty cheap
>>2825185A chisel could do but router plane will do it neatly. A hand drill could work if you put a saw blade bit in (we call these ‘slot saws’), make two parallel lines and chisel it out, I did that for photo stands before I got a router. Can be done with a dremel too.Another easy way is to get two boards glue them together, leaving a space where the slot should be. Don’t run your hand drill as a router, it’ll go everywhere and you’ll damage the chuck
>>2824968yeah very overkill shelves, here's how i make mine, the shelves don't need corner cut outs that way and sit on the cross bars. you can make the cross pieces internal to the sides, and then have your shelves sit on them but be narrower than the whole shelf unit. i find pic rel to be better space usage though.put one diagonal across the back for strength.
Best use for cocobolo? I bought 2 2"x3"x24" blocks and I'm thinking I might've jumped the gun as an amateur here.I also bought a bunch of 2x10 pine boards, of which I need to rip most of them into 2x6s. Any tips on what to do with the leftovers from each rip?
>>2825185Forstner bits are what you want to hog out most of the material for the slot easily, then chisel out the rest.
>>2825261It's pretty, but it's just material at the end of the day. Make what inspires you.
>>2825231Your sheets are unsupported along the long edge, and there’s barely any racking resistance on the short edge if you put just one screw per corner. Are you using very thick sheet material or just put light stuff on it?
>>2824952Screws. And I'm trying to keep it simple. Just wood and screws, basically
As a young lady, I just like working with a healthy piece of wood, no age restrictions
>>2824968I like it. Are those boards a simple piece or several glued together? Will they warp?
>>2824968And is it pine?
>>2825483do you and your friends want to glue me up?
>>2824383just stuck a open bottle of vodka up my ass, I love how it feels
>>2822773i got some morning wood. what can do with it?
>Tried to make a downdraft table for small sanding/cutting projects>Used an 8" exhaust fan wited to 220v for suction>A pegboard for the top>barely sucks anythingI'm taking a second go at this with an additional fan, looking for tips in case anyone has done a similar project.I think the pegboard was part of the issue, probably added too much resistance... I'll try again using a metal mesh as the top
>>2825306It's pretty, but it was also pretty expensive and I haven't exactly carved anything before. I want to make a new handle for an old jack plane I bought, but I'm worried that I'll ruin it with one wrong rasp stroke.
>>2825472That's fine for cabinets or shelves that are mostly a static load, but a bedframe has people laying on it, moving around, engaging in vigorous activities, etc., so the threads are going to be damaging the wood. These: >>2822999 are a better way to do it, since it's more of a clamping effect.
>>2825483The boards look medium to poor quality pine 2x4s to me and pretty sure the sheets are underlayment. Individual 2x4s can warp but if you fix them like that the effects are usually minimal (all 4 legs would have to warp the same way in order to bend the structure).>>2825231This guy doesn’t like corner cut outs, but if you cut them nicely you’ll need zero screws to hold them in place>>2825472You’re hearing the screws most likely, the wood rubs on the metal as the screws deform elastically. Usually means that some will break or tear out soon. Any reason you can’t screw + glue? Then use >>2822999 on some joints so that the bed can still be disassembled if needed. In most beds the head and foot boards are glued together and the rails connected by barrel nuts and dowels or m&t. But unless the headboard is huge you can still move a bed that is completely glued together as doors are 7” and a king bed is 6’8”
>>2825537more is more bettermore holesmore bigger holesmore S U C Cif youve ever been on an industrial downdraft table or been near a welders exhaust hood you will know how much succ is enough succ
>>2822773probably a long shot and i hope this is the right thread to ask this but i was wondering if any of you can identify the type of hardwood used in this image
>>2824383i'm sure there are no books about one of the oldest trades in the world
My first diy I made just out or mostly 2x4 and stained it because i wanted to try something that I haven't done before
Can I darken a walnut wood veneer?
>>2825791Looks simple and solid as fuck, I like it.
>>2825361>very thick sheet materialyes, sort of, random planks about half an inch thick, also random plywood. it's just an example of the basic construction.>or just put light stuff on it?sort of.that's just an example i think most of the one si have made at home have two screws. or even more. but even one screw can hold a lot of weight in that way. there's little leverage on it and if you pre-drill it properly it will hold fast.i can't find the video about it, there was a really good japanese video showing this. basically drill a hole slightly wider than your screw through the first piece, then it will hold better and stronger.
>>2825759well i asked in the second post and got nothing so thanks again for still providing me with nothing.
>>2825887Yeah. If only someone would post that information in the thread.
>>2825890those are specific authors, not specific books, one is a website. not even a book.sorry for asking a question about woodwork information to the woodworking guys. shame you seem to know nothing about woodworking books, next time i will just go and kill myself instead. would you prefer that?
>>2825893Yes.
>>2825890from vic tesolin's website:>VTW is an inclusive and safe space that embraces everyone regardless of race, religion, age, ethnicity, education background, sexual orientation, gender identity, ability, appearance, or veteran status. Disrespect or discrimination will not be tolerated. If at any point you have questions, concerns, or feel unwelcome, please reach out and we will address any issues.thankyou but i need more racist woodworker, that level of tolerance is unacceptable.>>2825894well guess what? I'M NOT GOING TO YOU FUCKING RETARD HAHAHA i will just post here again.
>>2825537...just hook up a vacuum?
>>2825537also this seems like a great idea for a CNC table instead of mounting a vacuum to the toolheadexcept wait the table is bighmmm
>>2825791It's not simple to get the color you want or for it to be even with construction lumber. Keep with that spirit and process and keep going.
>>2822999Do these fucking exist in 3/8? Am I retarded and incapable of using the internet? Have a bed frame missing 2 of them and the only 3/8 ones I can find are way too long. Would rather not have to chop it down to size.
>>2825887
>>2826025I found some for m10. It's just really shitty to search because the Amazon 1/4-20 seller has SEOd the entire Google search results.
Been building the support for the mattress (the white boards). This is my first time building something of this size. Mostly, I just build shelves. I don't care if the thing lacks mathematical rigor. What do you think?
>>2826189I'm a bit confused because normally the slats are the the only things supporting the mattress.
>>2825509cut into thin slices and use them for bingo markers
>>2826189I’m thinking why did you build something that no one will ever see so ridiculously complex? Also I agree with >>2826248, normally the slats are only supported on the sides
2 questions for you wwg- If you laminate 2x4s into a 4x4 would you put the boards together? Should the growth rings seen from top form a C shape, an X shape or an O shape? (Hope this makes sense)- I wanted to laminate a benchtop from pine 1x2s. But it would cost €100 in lumber and a pre made beech top of the same thickness it would cost about €90. Is there any reason to go for pine over beech? And are hardware store beech laminate tops of good quality?
>>2826328It doesn't matter as long as you don't have any pith. The warpage from indoor use on seasoned lumber on such small members is pretty small. If you were making a wide panel then it may matter, but for a 4x4 shape? Nah. That thickness seems a bit thin depending on your bench design/intended use.
>>2826369Thanks, it’s more of a table for assembly, but will also probably hold the drill press, 2’ wide and supported on the sides
>>2826328Beech is a good choice. It's traditionally used for workbenches. Mind you that's European beech. Beech moves a lot. American beech supposedly turns into a pringle at the slightest hint of ambient moisture change but I don't have experience with it so I can't say if that's accurate. I like beech though. It's cheap, hard, and quite pretty when oiled.
I got tired of my rip saw being dull so I made one of these out of firewood-grade scrap sapele. Any comments? I think it turned out alright.
>>2826440i will steel (get it?) that L iron idea
>>2826480I didn't come up with it either.https://www.lumberjocks.com/showcase/shop-made-saw-sharpening-vise.87602/A few notes: the angle iron isn't on a perfect 45° but are tilted forward so they meet on top first. Angle iron is rarely straight but mine are bowed so they stay apart in the middle, meaning when clamped it makes contact along the entire length.
>>2826440Just added the last bit to it.
none of you have ever read a book about woodworking
>>2826502the one thing i would add is a spring that holds the saw in place with the nut loosened. Like a second screw with it placed between head and washer.that and polish the jaw faces of the iron>>2826678i read and own two. one from the ~1910, the other from the 30s
>>2826248>>2826321>normally the slats are only supported on the sidesThis is not true. Before I built this, the slats were supported at the sides and at the middle, by a metal beam that runs from the top of the bed to the bottom. The slats are just 8mm thick. I don't think they could support the weight of the mattress plus one or two people without to much deflection.>why did you build something that no one will ever see so ridiculously complexI agree. It's ridiculously complex and it was a lot of work and I'm not sure it will accomplish the objective, which was to not squeak.Well, I started working on this and there wasn't an initial plan and this is what I got. At least it can all be disassembled and fits in a normal car, in case I have to move
>>2826189overbuilt to fuck. Normally there's just a center joist with one or two feet. If you can jump on it, it's good.
>>2826870>The slats are just 8mm thickThey're normally hardwood ply, laminated so they bow up in the middle, and this is a perfectly reasonable thickness to support a mattress with an adult or two on it.
>>2824383Yes. Plenty of good books, manuals and magazines for free online. Google Books has a lot of old woodworking books that teach the fundamentals of hand tools. These are very good. I remember reading one that set you up to practice techniques every day. I really wanted to do that, but never could get my shop up and running. I ransacked two thrift stores of all their woodworking/carpentry/trades books for like $50 a few years ago. Probably like 50+ books. Some are just eye candy, some are redundant and a few are vital.
>>2826440That's dope. I like it.
>>2822773I have no experience and very little knowledgeI have the biggest itch to start doing something but Im broke.Should I get a handsaw and some plywood and start gluing and nailing things together or should I wait a bit until I can afford a circular saw?I dont know how long do handsaws are supposed to last, if its worth resharpening the cheap crap Im planning to get or even if someone offers that service where I live.
>>2826922The shitty circs start at $20, but they make the same cuts as $200 circs. Even better if one has a fresh blade. Corded still wins unless you're on a roof. Most shop workers are going to rely mainly on a tablesaw or hand tools. Pawns can't give away tools right now. Get in there and start kicking their prices down. They'll discount a sticker price right away, offer them something lower. Walk if they don't play ball. You're going to want to learn all you can about blade sharpening, kerfs, wood grains and tear out. Just be active and enjoy the process of learning the craft.
>>2826922If you're using hand tools then I'd recommend against engineered wood products. They don't cut well with hand saws and planes.I'd also say don't bother with construction lumber but YMMV. S4S lumber is definitely helpful if you're not trying to make fine furniture but I can get beech at more or less the same price as construction soft-pretzels here and hardwoods are infinitely nicer to work with hand tools than softwoods.Hardware store hand saws are not traditionally considered resharpenable because they skate files but it can be done with coarse stones if you're determined enough. They make excellent cross cut saws and horrendous rip saws. My $7 Irwin Fast Jack has seen miles of use and I've not been kind to it but it's still sharp as hell because impulse hardening works miracles. If I were you I'd get one regardless. You can probably get a barely-used one for $1 if you're really that destitute. In no universe is it worth it to pay a professional to resharpen one.You're gonna need to post what you want to make specifically if you want actual advice on what tools to get.
I just picked up some killer deals on some equipment at an estate sale. I got a large box full of finish, some new, some opened. There are four cans of zinsser shellac (the already mixed kind). They're very old. Can it be revived by adding alcohol? It's liquid but dries tacky. Also when I opened them they exploded, which was terrifying.If they can't be "revived" I'll just use them to start fires. I don't really use a lot of shellac and normally mix it from flakes.
>>2826922Heck yeah, anon. Get a handsaw, an Irwin chisel, a cheap sharpening stone (from a kitchen store if the hardware store doesn't have one), a utility knife, a Kreg Multi-mark, some Titebond (1 or 2 so you can undo the bond if need be, Titebond 3 is permanent) wood glue and some boards. You'll need various supplementary tools, but those can be improvised if you do not already own them and want to keep spending down. These would be a mallet, hammer, awl, water color paint brush (for glue in tight spaces), miter box and square off the top of my head. A kreg multi-mark is invaluable for repeat measurements, checking square and many other things. A drill with a forstner bit followed up with a chisel is a great way to help remove material for a mortise. Use your utility knife to cut the wood fibers around the perimeter of a mortise so you don't accidentally tear a bunch of wood pieces out of your piece when you chisel. Never put your offhand in front of where you are working the chisel. Learn how to sharpen it and sharp it often.There are a ton of different handsaws. I personally prefer a japanese ryoba saw. It has teeth for ripcuts on one side and crosscuts on the other, so it is multipurpose. They are not sharpenable, so you just buy another saw blade. As long as you don't try to cut through metal and you don't abuse the blade, one blade can last for quite some time (1-2+ years, maybe more). You cut on the pull stroke. A flexible dowel cutting saw is also a good choice.I personally recommend boards because they are easier to cut with a handsaw, take a chisel well and are good for screwing into its edge. Sure, get some plywood if you want/need it, no problem. Furring strips are the cheapest boards you can buy at the hardware store. They are planed smooth on one side, but are rough on the other. Usually a buck or two for one. You gotta sift through the pile for straight(er) boards, which is a good exercise and will train your eyes to see wood.
>>2826933Don't bother with cheap ceramic stones. Diamond plates are basically free now and don't need flattening. This, or even cheaper with a ~400/1000 grit, plus a strop with some ~6k compound and you can sharpen planes/chisels to a reasonable standard and it will suck significantly less than the $20 kitchen supply store stone.https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Sharpening-Stone-Coarse-Non-slip/dp/B09WM9NCK3
>>2826930Im making a shoe storage thing first and boxy cabinet like things to organize my crap
>>2826934Nothing wrong with a $2-$4 stone, anon.
>>2826931Shellac revives easily on a 100 year old finish, it should revive in the can.
>>2826940That's my thinking, but when I searched for it I saw people saying to throw it out. Seemed weird to me as shellac is about as dead simple as it gets and I don't think the premix is anything but DNA and shellac.
>>2826938Their bonding agents and low densities make them wear so quickly that they end up visibly dished after 1 knife. They also happily catch blades because they're so soft and when they do you cut a chunk out of them. No, you shouldn't end up in a situation where your blade catches but beginners are beginners. Also, regardless of ceramic stone quality you're gonna need a flattening stone, a problem abrogated by diamond plates. I'm not normally a fan of diamond plates either but they're cheap and extremely beginner friendly.
>>2826938I have the newbie coworkers sharpen tools while I read prints and prep. The last one dug a quarter inch groove in the stone first try. The chisel was still dull when they got done.
>>2826942It probably depends on the finisher's needs. I wouldn't trust them if someone pays a large amount to refin their kitchen or whole house molding. I'd roll the dice on < 2 hour work or hobby stuff. I can't guess if zinsser doesn't have other solvents or additives.
>>2826937Your needs are pretty well covered by >>2826933.I'd probably amend it to saw, hand plane, chisel. Buy used, have a wire brush on hand to clean them up and flatten them.
> sawing woodBliss> sawing particle boardFucking hell what bastard invented this piece of shit material I want to feed him rice crispies made of 100% birch sawdust
>>2826943Yes, anon. They are cheap stones, yet they are still better than nothing. A newbie isn't going to feel oppressed by the thing like you will, either. Tools & shop consumables get pricey fast. You think $20 is cheap, but all of a sudden it's not when you need to buy like 15 different things that are all $20+. $2$-4 is an excellent price point in order to break through the barrier of entry into sharpening. The only other alternative to super cheap sharpening solutions is sandpaper on a hard flat surface like a glass plate or a stone slab (plate-glass weight scales are not a bad option). That being said, going with sandpaper ends up getting pricey in the long-term, but it is still an option. >>2826944Good thing it was cheap. Perhaps you just aren't a very good mentor. The guy who taught me how to sharpen a chisel told me not to run the chisel back and forth. Only forward. When you run it back and forth like most people do, you are more likely to wobble and mess up your chisel (and the stone). If you focus only on good, flat forward strokes, then your strokes are slower yet also more accurate.
>>2826943Sintered ceramic wipes the floor with cheap diamond plates and its not even close
>>2826987The best is still sticking sandpaper to a sheet of glass. A lot cheaper, too.
>>2826984It's not a mentoring test. I don't show them the sharpening process at first. It's a basic carpentry skill and it shows how they perform with a task they're unfamiliar with. Do they ask me? Do they ask other coworkers? Are they competent? Will they look up basic info they don't know? Can they follow direction? Sharpening is not unimportant. There are several things I need sharp chisels and planes for. If they ask, I show them a simple method, probably whatever I've retained from Paul Sellers. Two grits, maintain the bevel and finish with a few passes on the flat. It's an acceptable method for getting sharp enough to plane trim and chisel cabs. Most of the newbies have zero attention span, low effort, know it all, or exist in a metaverse outside of our reality. Two bosses, a designer, home owners, project managers, and supers pick every last peanut out of my waste. I'd just as soon know my help is completely worthless and untrainable off the jump.
>>2827056Sounds like a cope. Are you in a union?
>>2826934anyone find that the hexagon pattern diamond stones make an inferior edge?like yeah, you can get shit sharp, but if you go towards the stone instead of away it is actually clipping the hexagons because of microscopically going between them. I find it makes a weirdly shit edge.
>>2826915>a few are vital.>>2826770>i read and own two. one from the ~1910, the other from the 30stitles? authors?to calrify, what i was hoping for was something along the lines of "the art of electronics" by horowitz and hill, but for woodwork. like a woodworking bible that covers everything.
>>2827087Stones are a religion, asking such questions is pointless
>>2827045you realize this is a youtuber meme that got popular by being parroted a thousand times?
>>2827064Nonunion, I don't get paid to train retards. It's not beginner carpentry. I'll just go back to free agency if the company applies more pressure.
>>2827089firz spannagel "der möbelbau" i dont think a german book might be of interest for you, but for the hobbyist community here its an interesting read. the other one "die bautischlerei" has not much to do with cabinetry, more general carpentry. only bought that one cause i had a coupon. Wild how they poured coke creosote onto sub floors back in the 1900s, no wonder we all get cancer lol
>>2827114Explain.
>>2827233He's just mad that there's a different option for sharpening that's cheap and easy.
>>2827204Mentor-mentee exists throughout all levels of experience. A mentor is not just for newbies. There is always someone with more knowledge, experience and skill than us in certain areas. I think a healthy work place encourages those with more knowledge, experience and skill to train those with less because it ensures everyone is getting better, either by the passing down of knowledge and skill or the development of teaching and instruction skills. If a worker will not listen and take instruction, then that is reason enough to fire them. Easiest way to tell if someone is going to work out is taking them through instruction and see how well they listen and pay attention. You can fix the retard that can listen and is committed to learning and doing it right. They may never turn into a superstar, but they can still become productive. The idiot that is so full of himself he can't listen is the worst employee/coworker, especially if they are a superstar. You weed those people out fast doing basic things like learning something new or different.
I’m team cheap diamond plate. $20 set and haven’t replaced them in years. >>2827087Are you sure the surface below your plate isn’t slightly concave?>>2827089Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking is the closest thing I know. But you really have to specify some sort of niche: a framer, finish carpenter, artisan cabinet maker , and modern furniture maker would all join two boards differently and with different tools. There isn’t really a one size fits all here
>>2827233for the money spent on sticky paper you're already well into chink diamond plate territory and guess what they dont rip to pieces doing push strokes
>>2827242I don't understand why you've just paraphrased my entire point.
>>2827249>doing push strokesYou're doing it wrong.
>>2827314>t. never sharpened anything
>>2827317OK zoomer.
I was curious about making a fingerboard, I have these scrap pieces of oak about an 1/8th thick Is it possible to put these in a mold or should I just order veneer like every other tutorial?Or is it possible to lathe the oak into sheets and reglue then? It's just a project I wanted to start on. I have zero experience
>>2826922Update I got a handsaw 24" 6 TPI, 2 chisels 1/4 and 1/2 and some clamps. They didnt have sharpening stones at that hardware store.Im getting the wood this weekend and we will see what happens
>>2822773I am a femoid and I can’t tell if my fear of the machines is healthy or unhealthy. I nearly chopped off a finger sharpening a kitchen knife when I was a teenager with one of those shitty hand held sharpeners, now I’m checking three or four times to make sure I have a plan when I use table saws, band saws, planars. I’m in school for Applied Design and Sculpture. I just wanna make shit confidently but I get so slow when working on a project….
>>2827665This was my first project. I made a push toy that was animated with forward motion of an alien sucking up a cow. I wasn’t allowed the lathe because the Intro class had 25 people in it, so teacher had to help me with cutting the beam on a whole ass angle… honestly, should’ve hollowed out the beam, but time was so short, the amount of waiting for machines and lack of monitored shop time paired with fear fucked me up hard.
>>2827665fear of tools is unhealthy. a machine demands respect, a cool head and clear rules where to put ones hand. Woodworking tools are no joke as the feeding is often done by hand.In my country every carpenter apprentice has to attend a multi day course for a specific wood working machinery, else he is not allowed to operate it (by the insurance). Perhaps something similar exists in your country
>>2827667I feel a little peeved because I’ve taken one shop-ish class before and we spent three days learning the machines before the years ago. I took this one and the teacher barely spent a day teaching them shop safety. I remembered the ‘Silver Circle of Death’ and my newest shop teacher didn’t teach people that at all. :( Honestly, I hope the new wood working professor does more safety training next semester. If they don’t I may have to simply go to a trade school for a few years on top of this design degree.
>>2827667Thank you by the way, that helps a lot!
>how to spot an old carpenter >count the phalanxes
>>2827661Are you trying to make your own plywood? I wouldn't recommend it.I made a fingerboard by just gluing and screwing sticks of wood of varying thicknesses to a board, and it's held up just fine. If you don't have something to plane them down to the correct thickness, rip them down to thickness instead. It might not be perfect but it doesn't need to be.
I have a question.Does the yellow wood of berberis stay yellow after its dried? I got myself handful of pieces I plan to make some figurines out of.
For a big light table I use for some measuring and light work, Im planning make a frame out of 2x1s about 1’ on center and then staple 1/8” hardboard to both sides. This would be stiff in all directions right? I kinda need it to be hollow because it will have outlets at the edges. Is this a bad idea? Should I use MDF and glue the hardboard onto that instead for the top
Two questions: Does anyone use software to design their projects? If so, what? Looking for something that applies specifically to woodworking (not f360)What needs to be taken into account when building a project that will be outside in the elements year round? What finish and species should I go with?
>>2828463Not an expert in the field, but I imagine seasonal impregnation is a good idea, same with using hard woods with small grains, or especially ones that are resistant to rot, if such exist.I also imagine glue may not be enough for outside, with frequent wetting and drying cycles. Any screws or bolts used should be corrosion resistant.Of course it would all depend on the climate outside your window.That being said, I don't know much about woodworking and its all guesswork above.
>>2828463> Does anyone use software to design their projects?I use Autocad, used librecad before but it’s just to get an idea of dimensions. Sometimes I use solidworks, but only to see how something would fit in a room, or to verify what kind of cutouts I need> What needs to be taken into account when building a project that will be outside in the elements year round?Screws will not hold well. Exposed end grain will crack easily. Most softwoods and some hardwoods deform a lot with humidity changes (look into the shape of this deformation). Many transparent finishes become white or crack when exposed to UV. Pine turns grey/black from moisture. Crevices that stay wet/moist it will grow algae and rot. Dark, dry covered gaps get inhabited by insectsI could go on but tell us what you’re making first.
>>2828517I use Fusion 360 right now but I'm looking for something purpose-built for woodworkingI want to make some bird houses. This is the first project I'll be doing geared towards withstanding the elements, and they'll be in NE Ohio so they'll see the full range of weather. Appearance is not an issue I just want them to last at least a few years>>2828473I'm taking water shedding into account with my design, and I'll be using screws and Titebond exterior glue unless there's a better joint to go with
>>2828463Cedar and Teak are generally the go-to woods for outdoor stuff.
>>2828463Many years ago I used Google Sketchup to design some bedroom furniture. Worked out great. Built everything exactly to spec and I still have that furniture. I build things much differently now, so I haven't touched SketchUp in years, but you asked. Try to cover and seal your endgrain. Wood fibers are like tubes, perhaps even like straws. Endgrain will soak up and release moisture at a considerably higher rate than edge or face grain. If you leave your ends exposed your piece will eventually start to warp and deteriorate near the ends first and it will cascade from there. It might take a year, years, a decade, who knows, but it will happen. Obviously you can do whatever you want and plenty of people don't care about exposed endgrain, but again, you asked.
>>2828541Titebond 3 is pretty good stuff, but you really shouldn't rely on it. A proper joint incorporates mechanical fastening into the design so that the glue never does all the work. Try to build your piece so that each weight bearing component is actually resting on something rather than just being pinned or glued into place. This is one difference between modern slop and craftsmanship. The simplest way to accomplish this is with joints that incorporate a mortise & tenon type of fusion. What I mean is when you join two pieces, take a little bit from both of them, so when they mate they have a little bit to grab each other with. You can easily accomplish this with a couple handsaws (ryoba & dowel-cutting saw) a sharp chisel, a utility knife and a drill with a forstner bit. The Torx cabinet screws are seriously the easiest screws to use. Especially if you are countersinking them with a forstner bit. They have this wonderful ability to suck two pieces of wood together (almost like a bolt), whereas a lot of other screws will want to drive right through. >>2828755Cedar is the lightest, but also the softest. Teak is up for hard use. Ipe is the king of the outdoors and requires no finisher and very little maintenance to last more than a lifetime, but it is very hard so you need sharp tools & you need a way to sharpen them frequently. You also should avoid ipe dust because it is an irritant.
>>2827665To me, miter cuts become dangerous when the piece becomes small. Freehand tablesaw cuts are always about awareness and patience. Cutting with a circ and no cut station needs to be done in a safe way. Even a router or any moving tool needs to be kept clear until they stop spinning. Most of the skill is knowing what not to do and being mentally aware of what you're doing. The little zoomies move around in a video game daydream. Teaching them to use this stuff is an accident waiting to happen.
>>2828815>To me, miter cuts become dangerous when the piece becomes small
>>2828815> Freehand tablesaw cuts are> an accident waiting to happen.ftfy
>>2828885Freehanding table saw cuts is common practice in finish carpentry. It's one of the fastest ways to rip a bunch of scribes out. Nobody is gonna take you seriously if you can't freehand a scribe to the line on a table saw at a reasonable angle. One of the reasons it's not very dangerous is because the board can't get stuck between the saw blade and the rip fence and turn into a javelin. You can easily pull your hands back and cut power. If you're running loose knots or short pieces through, then you aren't practicing good judgement.
I cobbled trash together to grind my coffee. Now that it works >>2829024 I want to replace the top 3d printed plate and the bottom plywood frame with some better wood. I also want to build a simple square box for it. I assume I'll need 1/4" to 1/2" panels to do this. I only have hand tools, so that means sawing out shapes and hand-filing them to fit. What is the right wood to use here? Is there any "retard's first box" guide? The google examples sucked.
>>2829030Try to find some cherry. Looks good, it is easily workable, food-safe and it's usually a cheaper option amongst many of the nicer woods. Walnut is an arguably better option all around, but it is more expensive. Hard to give you any advice on building a box for it. Need to know more information. Do you mean an actual housing for the thing? Or do you mean a box to put it in for storage? Are you trying to build it with old school joints and glue? Or are you just going to plug it with fasteners like nails or screws? Does it need a lid? Are you trying to install hinges or something? The only sure thing I can say is that when you build a box, build it so the sides are sitting on top of the bottom and underneath the top. This ensures the wood itself is weight-bearing, as opposed to some fasteners or glue. If you can mortise out some slots for the wood to grab when you join a piece together, then you should do that. Lap/half-lap, dado, rabbet and mortise & tenon joints are what I am talking about here. I don't really know exactly what you're doing, but 1/4" thick wood might be a little more difficult to get enough material to grab a hold of. Thinner boards are easier to cut and work, but more difficult to join. I would stick with 1/2" to 3/4" just so it's easier to build it sturdy.
Oil walnut or leave it natural? Plan on adding a matte clear coat either way
>>2829243Right is pretty.
>>2827089>to calrify, what i was hoping for was something along the lines of "the art of electronics" by horowitz and hill, but for woodwork. like a woodworking bible that covers everything.Doesn't exist, plain and simple. "Woodworking" covers everything from making jewelry to making houses. I probably have some to recommend if you can be more specific, though. Timber framing, cabinetry, woodcarving, built-ins, furniture, greenhouses, historical reference, etc.
I own a 400 year old Austrian farmhouse with about 260m2 (2800 ft2) of very uneven rancid flooring, probably spruce. How do I clean atleast a hundrerd years worth of grime? Traditional cleaning methods have all failed me. I'm slightly hesistant to wire brush it because i feel like the open texture might be prone to attract grime again. It's probably too uneven for a floor sander.
>>2829601>How do I clean atleast a hundrerd years worth of grime?You don't, really. You can make a dent in it with regular cleaning and some new oil or wax (AFTER you thoroughly sweep and vacuum or you're just depositing a coating of grime) but it's never going to look better than "rustic" unless you strip, sand, repair and refinish it and that would be a huge project for that much floor space. Id also recommend hitting it with a scrub brush (gently) because there's probably a lot of grime there that a broom will miss and that is too embedded for a vacuum.You have a couple of options for cleaning. First, you could try mineral spirits. This is recommended for unsealed floors because if you use water the floor will suck it up. On the other hand, mineral spirits might take away what's left of the finish depending on what type of finish it is and leave you with another problem. Second, you could use water with a little bit of distilled vinegar in it. This is very gentle but on the other hand if your wood is unsealed (ie. if the old wax/oil/vanish/etc. has been worn down to non-existence) then you can end up inundating your floorboards with all of the problems that that entails. It you do it properly (ie never getting the floor more than damp) it won't be much but it might still cause a problem.Based on nothing but your pick I'd say sweep -> vacuum -> scrub -> sweep -> vacuum until as much grime as possible has been removed and then mop it to get up the finer stuff and finally wax and buff it when it's as clean as it's going to get.
>>2829601What is your final goal here? Because I don't think you will be able to give it 'brand new', or even 'pretty good' look, the best I would have hope for is 'good enough to walk on'.Personally I would say to hell with it, sand it all down so its all flat and smooth, with no protruding edges or shit flaking off, followed by applying something to it for protection, an impregnate, wax, oil, whatever, and thats it.I have no experience with wooden flooring tho, so its all pure conjecture.
