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>>2865900
You're supposed to put a link in the old thread you charlatan.

>>2865911
Thank, the new system. Had my post flagged marked as spam and me waiting again..

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Snagged a printer/ams combo while they're on sale.
I really liked the x1c we had at my old job, really happy about having a real printer at home (it's replacing a jank-ass ender 3 pro).

>>2865929
Do you run it on that table? Any problems with ringing?
>be me
>printer on heavy industrial cabinet with drawers for teh printing goodz
>terrible ringing
>turn printer 45' to access back
>ringing ceases to ring
And this despite the printer being smol.

>>2865937
No issues yet.
The table is clamped to the one next to it, which is a heavy-ass epoxy topped lab table. It was also pretty sturdy to begin with because it has braces on the back and sides.

>>2865895
i have no idea what you mean by inside out nylon gland?
also, im not sure how the chuck jaws would go inside the spool and not obstruct winding process?

>>2865929
im actually envious of people with bambulab printers now, my e3v2 has most bells and whistles and hasnt failed a print in a long time, but i just know a p1 will be so much nicer

>>2865882
I swear all these faggots are just selling spools from the same fa

>>2865957
>>2865882
I swear all these faggots are just selling spools from the same factory in China.

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>>2865945
Picrel is a nylon cable gland. You screw the cap down to compress the cable. The male version looks more like a bicycle quill stem expander.

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>>2865929
So, it's a new unit? Do they have the new fancy connectors from the X1E yet, or is that still exclusive?

>>2866010
New unit, but I don't think there's anything from the X1E

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>>2865929
Making little sliding/toggling signs for a weekly household task board

>>2865911
Hey, when you rewrite your collage next, can you make it generate a “photo mosaic”? I think it would be great if it’s just a bunch of overlapping images of 3D prints when you look close up, but when you zoom out there’s a fuzzy image of smug beardman. Though you might need to collect images from multiple threads to have enough.

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>>2866017
I like it, very Westinghouse SPB-100.

>>2866018
This isn't /g/.

>>2866017
Cute. Thought about doing something like that for my grandma, but she somehow still manages her household by pure routine/instinct.

Daily reminder to never forgive Stratasys

>>2866098
>This isn't /g/.
IIRC the guy rewrites the code for the OP mosaic every 6 months or something. So I assume the guy is doing it for fun AND has a decent bit of programming knowledge.

>>2866101
What's actually going on with the lawsuit at the moment anyhow? I avoid sensationalistic clickbait titles so I'm completely in the dark.

P1S for 450 Euros
yes or nah?

>>2866121
Stratasys chucking a tanty over printers having heated beds and other stuff like that saying they own the concept, they're only doing it now because all of a sudden Bambu printers are good and outclass their crap and other manufacturers are catching up.

Basically they're a patent troll like Red, or Traxxas etc. It's not just the lawsuit, they've held back advances in 3D printing for over a decade. Thanks to their patent trolling we are many years behind, imagine where we could have been.
>>2866143
Yes, best thing I ever bought

>>2866121
>IIRC the guy rewrites the code for the OP mosaic every 6 months or something.
Whenever I feel like it and have the free time.

>>2865900
How does you store your filaments /diy/?

Anyone ever bought used-like-new filament from amazon? Was it worth?

>>2866197
what a weird concept. Was it returned for printing like shit? Maybe just the wrong product.
If the vacuum pac is unbroken, I suppose it would be ok, but Amazon used has problems when they don't know what they are looking at.
Is this some stupid expensive exotic roll at half off?

>>2866197
No. Dealing with shitty filament is just not worth my time even if it's "just" one in ten. Polymaker has all your needs covered for a good price and if you need something more conscience sensible, even local manufacturers are catching up.
t.euro very happy with Azurfilm

>>2866191
On the spool anon

>>2866191
Plastic cereal boxes. I modified one of the lids to have a fan and heating element for drying. But they must seal like shit because my desiccant goes green when I leave it for more than a week. I’ll look into smearing a bead of silicone around the edge. Or maybe wax alone would be good enough? I hear you can soften wax by mixing it with mineral oil.

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My EIBOS dryer is literally disintegrating :(

>>2866197
The $2 you might save is not worth it. Bought a box of 4 spools of elegoo filament once and 3 spools caused a major clog that required me to take apart the hot end. About a 25 minute job x 3. Didnt even attempt the 4th spool. Now I just aim for about $15 a spool for PLA with brands I trust.

>>2866469
My dumbass didn't even leave a comment. I repurposed an old netbook monitor and bought a thinkcentre mini pc for my "workbench"

>be the only one in the family with a 3d printer
>relatives constantly ask me to design and print replacement parts
>do it for small and simple things
>it evolves into asking for intricate parts with tight specs
>they get upset when I decline because I don't want to spend 10+ hours designing a part with my 5 days of freecad knowledge for free
This hobby was a mistake for me

>>2865956
they are really good. A lot more reliable than the other stuff I've messed with like elegoo, kingroon, anycubic. All had issues with setup, levelling, first layer adhesion. But with P1S no issues. Only the filament if its too wet or dry

>>2866494
>i had three printers and couldn't get one to run
First layer adhesion has been solved more than a decade ago. Get better material.

>>2866490
the only person who gives a fuck that I have a printer is my wacky neighbor who sends me facebook links to 3D prints that have no other context. I printed the batman cat mask for her because why not and the only response was a screetshot of a guy selling them for $15 on etsy.

I even gave my nephew a 3d printer and sold my old one to another neighbor and still don't have anyone but you chucklefucks to talk about printing with.

>>2866121
> AND has a decent bit of programming knowledge.
So yeah, definitely not /g/ then.

>>2866018
why don't (You) ?

>>2866530
Largely the same here. Got the occasional boomer and family "customer" who are more than happy getting their magically created, perfect part, but finding someone both with the interest and skill to create something 3D is a seemingly dead end in my area.

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>>2865900
Why's my filament coming out like shit and is impossible to get off my build sheet? Normal PLA prints are fine.
Polymaker PLA Pro black, 230° nozzle 60° bed, have enclosure, sovol sv06+, 0.4mm nozzle width, 40mm/s speed, levelled bed, readjusted z offset, cleaned bed.

Haven't tried taking the extruder apart. I am about to head to work so I wanted to fire off a 36 hour print beforehand but fuck me right?

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>>2866659
2 of 3

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>>2866660
3 of 3
Only thing I can think of is a clogged extruder but I just changed the nozzle so what the fuck lmao.

>>2866659
You're way too close to the bed, anon.

>Haven't tried taking the extruder apart.
>Only thing I can think of is a clogged extruder
I have a hard time taking these posts for real.

>>2866704
You can clear a clog without disassembling the extruder assembly anon.
>>2866698
Paper trick not the meta?

>>2866717
>Paper trick not the meta?
Paper, feeler gauges, an actual dial indicator, it doesn't matter what you use because this shit isn't precise anyway. Look at your photos, you're way too close to the bed, it's skipping and spotting and plowing rows. Fix your z-offset.

>>2866698
It’s not smeary enough for that

>>2866728
It's very obviously too close to the bed.

>>2866659
>0.4 nozzle
>paper trick
whats your layer height? nozzle distance from plate should be just slightly lower than your layer height, and I think paper is like 0.1mm

>>2866490
Hear them out and let them know that the work is too difficult. If you get lucky they might just introduce you to a problem with a market. Have probably made $3k off some adapters I print in my spare time. You could be missing out on something that allows you to scale your hobby or build a little side business.

>>2866733
Layer height is 0.16, I raised the z offset up 1mm since the original pics and sent that print job when I left for work. Pray for me lads.

>>2866759
>I raised the z offset
Well, here's hoping he actually lowered it.

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reccys on how to get a flat picture for a bellhousing like this for tracing in fusion without any special shit beyond a smartphone? I just need to copy the pattern and rim, not the entire thing.

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>>2866768
Any cheap flatbed scanner makes a fucking awesome tool for getting measurements for flat objects and surfaces, I use mine all the damn time, cost ~$5 at a thrift store. They scan at a known DPI, so you can always scale a resulting image perfectly, and take measurements from the scan directly so you know shit is scaled right. For something like this it may not be reasonable to place something so big and heavy on the scanner, but I have flipped over the scanner and set it onto things, works just fine!
If the object is just too big for this, then fine, go with a photo. With photos you want is a flat focal plane so the resulting image isn't warped by parallax. This often means taking the photo from a distance, which can mean worse quality/details. You'll also need a reference for measurements, like a ruler. Multiple references can help you spot and account for parallax issues if they're present. If you're a photo nerd with a decent DSLR and the right lenses you might know exactly what to do from here. If you're stuck with a cellphone cam just zoom in as much as possible and do it from as far away as you can manage to get decent quality, that'll minimize parallax.

>>2866771
Cool idea. I'll add a bit, since that's probably an unwieldy piece to scan even by putting the flatbed on it. You can always coat the rim in ink and then carefully set it on paper to make an easily scannable copy. Even if it's too big for a normal scanner, you can either break it up or take it to a print shop that can handle large format scans. Keep in mind your image will be reversed so you'll need to flip it.

What is the cheapest 3d printer that is reasonably usable? I am just curious.

>>2866777
Bambu A1 mini

>>2866781
this. The a1 mini is arguably pretty close to the p1p with its hot swap nozzles. If you need to go from a 4mm to 2mm nozzle you can swap in like 2 minutes. Same job on the p1p would take probably 15-20. I think the drive system might be upgraded too. Have had issues on my p1p and p1s where the filament would get bunched up inside the gear system and you would have to take apart the whole drive system basically. I think the only issues I have had on my minis are that they dont like spools with barely any filament left. When theres like 60-80g left I get lots of issues with feeding.

>>2866797
>>2866759
Fuck off.

>>2866490
"Sure, send the file"

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>>2866763
Raised lowered tomato tomahtoe, I did the thing that increased the difference between the nozzle and the bed.
More importantly I came home to find the print I fired off doing the same thing as my first pics so that confirmed the issue.
Currently printing the same project after correcting the offset properly. Results to follow, or not idk.
>>2866781
>>2866797
Ngl my homies with X1Cs make me want to put a little extra away and buy one myself. Plug and play 3d printing sounds so nice bros.
>>2866798
I'll pray for you.

is there much of a difference between the X1C and the P1S to make it worth the 500euro difference?
im on the verge of buying the P1S because I dont really print fancy materials. I read that apparently its much louder and slower than the X1C.
can you switch around the parts later on to print carbon?

Is the AMS system for the A1 really worth getting? I know for multicolor prints but couldn't I just print separately and glue them? Someone sell me on this and how it's worth $150

>>2866854
I'm in camp "the real value is storage and less hassle". Need your PETG? Just hit print. Need your PLA? Just hit print. Need your fancy PET-CF? Just hit print. Sure there's somewhat of a question mark around 150bucks, but it just works. Mean while you'd have to spend time building a separate boxed system and a lot more getting it to work as well.
If you see it more as a hobby in itself checkout 3dchamelon and tradrack. Later being a lot more interesting if you're sitting in camp "color everything" anyways. It scales very well.

>>2866803
>worth it
Probably not. I just went it with the X1C due to higher temp bed and everything else coming in a nice package. If you don't care about ABS/ASA, i'd recommend "just" the P1S.

>>2866858
I don't think there's a way to box the AMS for the A1 is there? It seems to be out in the open.

>>2866858
>>2866803
The only advantage the X1C has over the P1S is the useless lidar scanner. It is not even remotely worth the extra cash. The P1S also has the newer hotend connectors that the X1E also has.

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>>2866777
>cheapest
Kingroon KP3S. $99 when on promo.

>>2866858
>If you don't care about ABS/ASA,
isnt the enclosure the entire point of buying the P1S over the P1P. I assumed for ABS it would be fine?
I dont print it beyond maybe once or twice a year on the printers I have now, but it would still be nice

>>2865929
how much total?

>>2865937
it's almost like diagonal forces are reduced in effect over orthogonal ones. nah, it must be black magic.

>>2866908
The salient point being just a smol printer can ring a 100kg steel box.

>>2865900
>don't own printer
>see used Ender 3 v1
>comes with: creality ABL, glass bed, spring upgrade, direct drive, silent 32-bit board
>80 bux
Is it worth it, guys?

Have only read stuff/watched videos. These seem like the upgrades I'd want anyway. Ender 3 is apparently babby's first printer tier. What am missing out on compared to Ender 3 V3/Pro/Neo/whatever? What should I look at/inspect before buying?

>>2866938
>ender 3 v1
Don't do that to yourself. if you want to start cheap and i'm assuming you are US then just get ender 3 v3 SE from microcenter or wherever is the cheapest.

>>2866907
$1200, both on Bambu's own site and at Microcenter where I bought it

>>2866771
>>2866774
a scanner was my first thought, but a bit too big I think for a commonly sized one. also don't have any nice cameras other than my phone and some 5mp cannon from like 2006 in my closet so can't really do much phototrickery with hardware for parallax removal. the paper template thing was also I thought, I might try that out but I guess I will just do the far away picture thing first and see how it goes.

>>2866943
Is it that bad? Considering the software kinks should've been patched out by now.

>>2866951
The problems are twofold. Firstly you presumably still have a shitty bowden hot-end, no belt tensioners, and other outdated hardware elements. Secondly, it's a 2nd hand DIY job, that you can't trust not to have wear in critical locations. 2nd hand printers just aren't something I could recommend to a new user because their failure modes are much more unpredictable.

This might be somewhat off topic but does anyone here know where I could get a 5x5cm hepa filter? Alternatively a round one up to 10cm

>>2866968
Check on eBay or amazon for vacuum HEPA filters, they come in all different sizes and styles and you might find one to adapt.

>>2866878
At least try to read what you're replying to next time.

>>2866904
Depends on your environment, but i like to keep my ABS toasty at 110C and my PET at 115C bed temp. Of course you can come by by putting an active heater inside your p1s as well.

>>2866956
>>2866951
Adding to that, as someone who uses to have an ender 3 Rev 1, the Mainboard couldn't handle software updates because it didn't have enough flash space. The later boards had much more space, but I remember spending a few days trying to customize a marlin firmware to get my bltouch working because the additional code was too much space so I had to delete other parts.

>>2867018
>Mainboard couldn't handle software updates because it didn't have enough flash space
Not really an issue for him since he said it had a silent mainboard already. Not like you can just replace the stepper drivers alone in an old Ender 3 mainboard.

https://ondsel.com/blog/goodbye/ too bad they ran out of money.

>>2867026
rip
they sank so freecad could swim

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Are there any (good) desktop CNC router tables for under $2k? 24" x 24" min.

This is the right thread for this, 3d printers are just CNC routers that add instead of subtract.

>>2867026
So it was a scheme all along? Thought they two big euro whales/grants/whatever.

>>2867064
Lurk more.

>>2866956
You convinced me. Ordered a new V3 SE. Thanks, anon.

>>2867121
shoulda got an A1 mini if you don't mind the botnet and size

Makerworld had a nice model of a Glock 19 for a short time that got taken down before I could print all the plates. Does anyone have a copy or know where I could find one? The name with "Glock G19 Fully Function..." Even the name of the user would be helpful.

can someone explain what the deal with the Bambulab AMS and using non-bambulab filaments is?
im getting it in a couple of days and I've been reading that cardboard rolls dont work or something

>>2867152
I don't have an AMS and am talking out of my ass, but it needs a specific spool inner diameter as far as I know. There's adapters on makerworld you can print though for basically any prominent filament producers so you can use other spools.
Even for cardboard spools there's adapters you can print that basically reinforce the cardboard spool with a thin plastic shield for compatibility.

>>2867152
Yeah, so I tore off the sides and slid one cardboard core over a bambu spool, however others were too small to fit, some are like 75mm ish I printed a 75mm spool that fits the smaller cardboard cores. Tape up the filament before ripping off the cardboard sides

>>2867127
Nah, mang. Vendor lock-in sucks. Yes, even [your favorite vendor].

>>2867146
Maybe try asking the fosscad subreddit

>>2866017
cool model. maybe look into flow calibration to make things prettier

>print goes fine for 7 hours
>suddenly nozzle collides with the print and tears it off the bed
>full nozzle-sized gouge taken out of one of the walls
I don't know what fucking happened. It looks like the print head just decided to drop 5mm out of nowhere for no reason.
I heard it click loudly a couple times just before the catastrophic failure, which I assume was the head clipping the top of the print. I wish I'd gotten up to look at it then.
The partial print appears visually fine apart from the collision damage.

>>2867146
Google found two Makerworld results for "Glock G19 Fully Functional," both deleted. However, the detailed view of the Google results gave the uploader's name, 彩虹 in both cases. Searching that on Makerworld, there are two matching profiles, only one of which has uploaded any models: https://makerworld.com/en/@user_2741456634
Seems he already republished the glock as of a couple days ago: https://makerworld.com/en/models/742853
Better grab it before it's taken down again.

>>2865900
Idk if this is the right thread. I want to scan my head to design stuff for it but I don't have access to a 3D scanning service. I heard there are apps for iPhone that compile a model out of your photos. Does anyone here know of an app for the Android or PC that does this? Preferably free cause I'm a poorfag.

>>2867245
No sign of failing bed adhesion?

>>2867293
I printed it on a raft and have never had any issues with this filament adhering to the bed before.
You think it might be the case that the print came unstuck from the bed first (randomly?) and then collided with the nozzle as it was being loosely jostled around afterward?

Anyone tried freeze drying filament?

>>2867310
>You think it might be the case that the print came unstuck from the bed first (randomly?) and then collided with the nozzle as it was being loosely jostled around afterward?
Yes. That or an overhang warped upwards. Who the hell uses rafts in 2024 anyhow?

>>2866923
It just has to match the resonant frequency of the lid. or was the entire box vibrating?

About to launch my 4th printed product. Hoping to get some consistent sales with it. I keep wondering though if im just wasting my time. All of my products have been pretty niche and im really the only person making these functional prints. Across my 3 products I probably make maybe $30-40 a week. There is consistent demand its just low.

I keep getting this idea in my head though to just start producing goyslop like fidget clickers and thingiverse product of the week and my printers will be at 110% capacity. Meanwhile the other part of me thinks I need to just keep doing what im doing and consistently roll out low volume products with almost no competition. Its certainly more work and more expensive upfront but the goyslop seems pretty appealing. I have that gut feeling though that I would just be chasing trends in a very saturated market.

Anyone sell goyslop or functional prints? Feel like I maybe need to double down on my own new designs. Here I am complaining about low sales volume, and high startup cost and labor to develop these products but maybe its a huge boon if I can consistently roll products like that out.

>>2867438
No goyslop. Custom adapters and simple replacement parts you can't cheaply buy is absolutely the way to go, but the bottleneck with that is communication. When people need an adapter or replacement part like that, their first thought is "too bad" or "gotta buy a new replacement". If there was a platform for connecting modellers to buyers and for finding the market, that would be optimal. But only when the userbase is large enough to crowdfund individual products do you get a self-sourcing idea mill. I'd probably try YouTube to spread the word on that.

For example, one person sees a need for an adapter (e.g. beer can holder that slots into John Deere ride-on mower) and makes a request on the platform. He spreads the word himself, and the concept might be featured on a YouTube channel and on the front-page of the website, until enough people have backed the idea with $10 or whatever to make it worth modelling. You or another skilled cad will create that model and start printing it. If the platform and its number of (freelance) modellers grows, you'd end up with people who happen to own things that are often modelled for (e.g. ride-on mowers). You'd also want to have a way to rate the 3D modellers, maybe multiple modellers could bid for the crowdfund cash, and the one with the most votes gets the contract.

>>2867451
2 of my products are adapters I suppose. Replacement parts and adapters are a pretty huge market, and 3d printing fits in pretty well with it. The major problem though is that you don't really know you need a replacement part until the original is already broken, and this would need to be reported by multiple people around the same time. Then for adapters you would likely want to own or at least borrow the thing you are designing for to get the final fit and feel.

The platform and users would definitely come out ahead, but there would need to be some pretty big bounties or royalties for the modeler. I like the idea, I just don't know how to properly execute on it. Definitely going to try and scale up my adapter and replacement part side of my little side business, but a platform like this could be very lucrative. Basically a McmasterCarr or Grainger of 3d printed adapters and replacement parts.

Out of curiosity as a PLAeb myself, what is you guys' go-to filament if the project doesn't require some specific different filament for aesthetics or functionality? Plain shiny PLA? Matte pla? Petg? Something else entirely?

>>2867512
Just PLA. That's what it's for.

>>2867293
>>2867363
After a couple more failures of the same print, it's definitely the nozzle dislodging the print from the bed and not the other way around. However, there are also no warped overhangs. In fact I can't see any warping at all.
From observing it while it's printing, it seems to be catching on parts of the infill, but I don't know why it would be doing that. It only starts happening after 6+hours of printing, when gets to be around 4 inches tall.

>>2867512
My boss used to print literally everything that didn't need to be a specific color or material in prusament galaxy black.
Looks classy, nice surface finish. We had like 20 refill spools sitting around at any given time.

>>2867547
Hm. Maybe some funky internal expansion/shrinkage interactions are making part of the infill bow out enough to catch the nozzle?

>>2867372
Entire box. It's a cabinet with drawers, all steel, 100x50x70 cm. Not at all wobbly.

How much tolerance would you add to the holes on something like drill bit storage, if you want it not too wiggly, but something you'd feel comfortable sharing online? And will slicing the STEP vs STL help with more accurate holes sizes?

>>2867547
I'd still assume it's a warping issue, even if you can't see it, so I'd try using printing techniques that mitigate warping. More importantly though, enable Z-hop, so your travel moves can't clip anything.
>infill
Which infill pattern are you using? Some infill patterns overlap, I'd want to use a non-overlapping infill pattern like gyroid.

>>2867564
I've noticed parts of the infill looking fucked up, as well. Holes in it, bits missing, etc. The walls of the print and MOST of the infill look fine.

I'm trying the print again, but this time using a ton of blue tape to hold down all the edges of the raft to the print bed.
I don't care if the infill gets bits torn out as the nozzle clips it, I just don't want it to botch the whole print.
If it fails again I might have to restrict combing to just the walls or change infill patterns or something.

>>2867620
>Which infill pattern are you using?
Cura's default, cubic. It's always worked fine for me before.

>>2867171
>Vendor lock-in
What's locked in? You can use any filament, the slicer is open source, so id orcaslicer which you can also use.

>>2867512
eSun PLA+

>>2867665
Why PLA+?
PLA is 13€ here, PLA+ is 19€, so 50% more, and PLA already prints super easy, so what exactly does one get from the plus?
>>2867517
That's what I figured but I had a shocker recently when I saw how cheap PETG and PCTG have gotten (relatively speaking).

>>2867512
ABS
Cost the same as PLA, if a final part prints with ABS on first go then it means I don't usually have to reprint it.
Most of my parts are functional so I'd rather have them in ABS even if I could get away with PLA
PLA is exclusively for decorative things.

>>2867512

It USED to be PLA. However, I found out the hard way that many (most?) formulations of PLA become so weak and brittle over time that it's virtually useless for anything. Maybe mine's worse than most, but I've found parts that literally just fell apart years after they were made.

PETG is a pain in the ass to get a good-looking print out of, but 100% of what I make is functional/mechanical parts. PETG's properties along those lines are favorable enough that I just live with it.

>>2867714
Interesting, either I have much cheaper PLA or much more expensive ABS than you, because for me it's about 30% more expensive. Sadly I don't have an enclosed printer, so the warping means it's probably not an option anyways, but I can see the advantages for a lot of functional prints.
>>2867718
Interesting, I've never had issues with brittle prints, and I've been using some PLA prints for many years now (most notably in a coffee mill, so it withstands both the high moisture of cooking in the kitchen and the stresses from the milling process on the frame). I don't use anything PLA anywhere outdoor though, supposedly UV exposure fucks up PLA a lot.
If PETG is such a paint o print, maybe give PCTG a try. Much easier to print with similar properties to PETG, will cost you a bit for the privilege though.

>>2867749
I was trying to degrade prints for a part with UV exposure deliberately and yes ozone and the UV spectrum likes to embrittle plastic. My parts were only about 2-3mm thick, but it only took the equivalent of like 60-90 days of direct sunlight to basically turn them to glass. If you use PLA outdoors or near a window it will definitely embrittle to probably the point of failure pretty quickly if its under stress.

I believe thermoforming PLA can also cause embrittlement. I have a part that I print flat and then soften in boiling water and thermoform around a mold. Have had a few instances of these parts shattering under light stress loads.

>>2867512
>what is you guys' go-to filament if the project doesn't require some specific different filament for aesthetics or functionality
Whatever is currently loaded in my printer.

>>2867749
>Interesting, either I have much cheaper PLA or much more expensive ABS than you, because for me it's about 30% more expensive.
In the US the prices seem to jump around a bit they are always with a few bucks of each other.
The thing also with ABS to is its so much lighter than PLA
ABS is like 15-20% less dense than PLA so a kilogram goes much further.

I've been printing ABS since I first got my ender 3, so I'm well accustomed to the difficulties and some of my best prints where from ABS. Although since I have a bambu now it's touch and go, pre-heating is the only "struggle".

>>2867807
Interesting, the density thing is something I wasn't aware of, that makes the prices more reasonable even for me.
Do you have a bambu A1 or one of the ones with an enclosure? I went a similar route (ender 3 Rev 1 -> Bambu A1 mini) but I suppose the trauma of bad bed adhesion and failed prints from the ender made it so I didn't dare branch out so far into other filaments, despite the fact that the bambu hasn't had a single issue other than filament feeding once so far.

>>2867783
Interesting, I never tested it, but my two oldest prints still around (a part of a mask and the coffee mill) both would fit that category - the mill is exposed to physical Stress, but little to no UV radiation since it doesn't sit near a window and the mask is directly at a window but never exposed to any Stress, so that might explain why it hasn't (noticeably) degraded.
Thanks for the info anon, I might print two hooks and put them on my balcony with some weights on them today just to see if and when they fail.

>>2867818
keep in mind the part thickness is also going to matter. Not sure about ozone, but the UV spectrum can likely only penetrate so deep into the PLA. If you printed a cube with thin walls and left it out in the sun you could probably easily poke holes through it. Put one inch thick walls with 100% infill and all you might get is some discoloration and weakness, but not enough to cause significant failure unless you were doing some type of destructive testing.

Having just finished printing a big candle mold, it now occurs to me that melted wax might be far enough above PLA's glass transition temperature to deform the mold, even if it wouldn't truly melt the plastic.
But I already have the mold now. What do you think is the best way to make use of it anyway?
Would putting it in the freezer before pouring the wax in help, or is hollow (10% infill) PLA's thermal capacity too low for that to make any real impact?
I could try just pouring thin layers onto the walls of the mold instead of pouring everything in all at once and gradually filling it that way, but it'd be slow.

Dimensions being equal, what filament is equal to or better than injection molded ABS in terms of strength and maybe heat and wear resistance? If I wanted to print a replacement part for something made of injection molded ABS then what material would be ideal? Im assuming maybe some type of CF or glass filled nylon and it would be better than the original?

>>2868025
"No"

>>2867960
Coat mould walls in epoxy or some other smooth and waterproof thermoset. Drill holes in the outside of your mould that allow you to fill it up with water (you used gyroid infill, right anon?). Hopefully the water keeps the PLA cool, if it doesn’t the epoxy will help it hold its shape. Freezing the water in the mould would definitely work, but it might crack the mould.

Shoulda printed a plug and cast a mould around that instead.

>>2868025
PEEK. Lmao.

See if you can add reinforcement rods or fasteners to the solid where it will be under the highest stress.

>>2867960
>It most certainly is
>If you wanna go full autism, fill it with water

>>2868032
It takes PEEK to hit ABS equivalent? I don't know if I can believe that.

>>2868025
I don't think FDM anything can ever be equal in strength to injection-molded anything.
Your best bet is to 3D print the part you want, make a silicone mold of it, and then cast it in resin or something.

>>2868032
>>2868035
>fill with water
Nope, cubic infill. I'm pretty sure the interior space can't be filled.
>epoxy
It's a three-part mold. If I apply the epoxy while the mold is assembled, won't it fuck with the mold's ability to come apart, and if I apply it while it's disassembled, won't it fuck with the mold's ability to fit together? Also I feel like either way, the additional layer of epoxy would cause it to lose detail.

>>2868043
You said equal to OR better. I was shooting for better.

I'm assuming the ABS part broke and you want to significantly improve upon it, but I guess you could have just lost or broken it in a one-off event. The main problem is going to be the layer adhesion, if that isn't a problem (i.e. the part is in compression) then printed ABS is going to be 95% as good as injection-moulded part. Some vapour smoothing would help you improve the abrasion resistance and help fuse the layers together on the skin.

A really hard TPU (like what hard hats are made of) would probably have significantly better layer adhesion than ABS, but I'm not certain.

But your equivalent dimensions thing is probably not a hard requirement unless the part is really small. Injection-moulded parts can only be so thick before they encounter shrinking issues, hence why parts are often made of thin walls with reinforcement ribs, instead of having thicker walls. If you can beef up the structure, then it could easily be significantly stronger than the original part.

The other option is printing a mould to cast epoxy in, probably with a filler like glass beads or chopped carbon fibre, if not a compression mould for "forged" carbon fibre.

>>2868066
>I'm pretty sure the interior space can't be filled.
Depending on the shape, you may be able to drill long vertical holes down alongside the mould cavity, but they might impact the strength of the print.
>If I apply the epoxy while the mold is assembled
You'd have to do it while the mould is disassembled, and use a knife or razor blade to clean the overflowing/dripping epoxy off the corners while it's half-cured.
If detail is a problem, you'd want to get a really thin epoxy, and paint it on by brush.

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Printed some Dummy 13s for drawing pose reference, one at standard and one at 200%
Big one is like 11" tall

>>2868179
How well do FDM ball-and-socket joints work? Reminds me of Bionicle.

>>2868189
They work fine. I even printed these at 0.20 when the suggested layer height is 0.15, and there are no issues. The layer lines smooth out pretty fast from the friction of the joint articulating.
They also strongly suggest using PETG for the internal components, i.e. all the ones that are part of a major joint, because PLA will apparently loosen very quickly. The little guy is all PLA, and that warning seems to be bearing out. I printed it a couple days ago, and the joints are at a pretty ideal degree of wear-in right now, but will likely get too loose to hold a pose in a few weeks.

>>2868130
Yeah that is my fault for saying or better.

My goal is to get away from PLA to make some more functional prints. Have been able to get by with it, but its only been used in certain applications. Basically im trying to dip my toes into the replacement part market. Looking for a good material. Like you said though I can probably make a better part with different designs that are not possible with injection molding. Still have to work around the tolerances of the full assembly though. I guess maybe the material isn't as important as the part though. Some parts will be worse off even with good materials, some might just work, and some might be better with the right design.

I just know that this PLA isn't going to cut it forever for me, and need to start using some other materials. TPU worked well for what I used it for, but PETG was a nightmare. Havent used ABS in a while but its probably worth a revisit.

>>2868209
>PETG was a nightmare
In what way?
NTA, I'm the candle mold anon and if my mold fails, I was going to look at PETG next as a higher-temperature plastic that wouldn't require an enclosure or anything significantly different from my basic Ender 3 PLA setup.

>>2868213
I would get one halfway decent print out of a fresh spool and then everything would go wrong. Would put the spool in the heated dry box to get rid of the moisture and then as soon as I started running it I would get a really horrible first layer. The first layer would basically look like pumice. Just tons of small holes throughout. Will try giving it another shot and maybe I have a bad spool, but its weird that one print could basically turn out perfect and the next an absolute abomination with all settings the same. Maybe it wasn't actually drying, but never had this problem with TPU which likes to suck up moisture also.

>>2868225
There is also the possibility it could be my machine and something like the nozzle just happened to blow out the same time im experimenting with new filaments. Could just be really bad timing.

>>2867960
Just pour a little bit in at a time and rotate the mould to coat the walls. Eventually it'll fill up. How is the wick going to stay put?

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>tfw checking on the state of loadcells in extruders
>turns out Prusa just rams the nozzle into the bed and makes the actual measurement when lifting up again.
>crickets marlin boomers
>not good enough for Klipper guys, they want something more precise
>RRF has it's own tap hate group. They didn't even bother with loadcells anymore after one guy did for delta printers a literal decade ago
At least i found pic rel abomination along the way. Which might be less useful, but at least quite interesting.
Why haven't we still not find a way to properly deal with offsets? Feels like we're decades behind CNC mills at this point.

>>2868209
There's PETG 'pro' and 'rapid', kinda like PLA+ etc, ASA, there's also hard TPU - 72d iirc for cheap.

Also for CF filled filaments like PETG CF should print easier and help prevent warping.

>>2868309
I still don't get why you just don't jam the nozzle into the bed and detect the stepper skip.

Why does there need to be anything else to tell that the nozzle is on the plate?

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>>2868316
Lots of complaints about scratches, long term use, etc. with varying intensity depending on what platform you want to communicate(which is an absolute shitshow for Klipper to begin with) and no one willing to deal with that. Tap was basically just a single old member who did his own thing till non-dev people picked it up.

I thought about doing a switch plate attached solid to the frame similar to what Lulzbot does. However, being a bit honest, starting from scratch i'd waste a lot more time than i'll ever save.

>>2868322
>solid to the frame
Meant solid to the bed of course.

>>2868309
Mills get tool offsets by using contact probes that work in similar principle to what voron has i.e. z endstop. The problem is that while just getting precise end of the tool is pretty easy and all you really need for mills, for additive manufacturing its a whole different beast. On 3d printers sure you need to get the nozzle location but on top of that you want to have a "good squish" of the first layer. Definition of a "good squish" isn't precisely set in stone and that's why we need arbitrary offsets. Solutions like prusa does with xl are pretty good but even they have an offset hardcoded in the config which gets added to measured distance, prusa on top of it monitors the active squish with the loadcell while printing. Other solution are eddy probes that have the tap functionality like carto/beacon/btt eddy. And those solutions too have offset integrated into their config but for a bit different thing.

>>2868316
We do that, and it sucks, so we don't do it. It's natively supported in Marlin if you want.

>>2868309
Marlin's supported probing with load-cells at the hotend for years now. They fucking suck, so people don't use them.
The way Vorons do it emulates the way tool-height setters on CNC machines work. It works very well, and you don't have to fuck with offsets once it's set up.

>>2868285
>How is the wick going to stay put?
The mold is inverted, designed so that the opening for pouring the wax is the bottom of the candle.
The top of the wick will be held in place by being physically pinched at the bottom of the mold, and I was planning to hold the bottom of the wick in place by tying it to a wooden skewer or something that sits across the top of the mold.

>>2868342
>>2868337
>Voron Z-endstop
Guess i'm one of the lucky ten thousands then. Never seen this mentioned once by any Klipper group. Alas that's pretty close to what i had in mind, so that'll save some work.
>prusa on top of it monitors the active squish with the loadcell while printing
It does, or just on the XL? I've seen some reddit threads that seem to complain about MK4's lack there of, but might as well be patched later.
>eddy
Simply not a fan. As i've said before we can see what CNCs have been doing for decades now. So why adopt what they already threw out of the window?

>>2868363
>So why adopt what they already threw out of the window?

Because height setters on a CNC machine are only stupidly rigid bases that basically don't move, at all, under the slight load they present.

The bed of a 3D printer has to support a load. At the extreme for most machines, as much as 1-2kg worth. Meaning the switch can't actuate with less than that load. That's a problem when poking at the sorts of very thin beds common on a 3D printer, as it will flex more than enough to completely ruin your measurement. Worse, the amount of flex changes based on how far from the support points your probe point is. The only reason the Vorons can get away with it is because they use unusually thick and rigid print beds. Complete non-starter for bedslingers, and even most X/Y gantry machines don't have beds quite that overbuilt.

Moreover, you don't really get any advantage over a touch probe. It just gets you out of the initial calibration of the nozzle height, and it's just kind of worse after that. Additionally, a slight modification eliminates even that difference:

Use two probes. One normal one at the hotend, and a specialty one fixed to either the bed or the frame (depending on machine type). First probe touches off on the second, then the nozzle itself touches off. Boom, the difference in detected height is your offset.

>>2868363
I don't have mk4 so im not sure about that one but if it has loadcell i dont see why it wouldn't have that feature unless prusa is being prusa. I can just talk about XL since that's what we have at work.
The voron solution is the closest to what mills use.
https://docs.vorondesign.com/community/howto/120decibell/z_endstop_configuration.html
It will be basically as precise as you mount it.
Mills don't use eddy since they don't really have a reason to. With 3d printers its a good solution because the precision is good enough and it can serves 2 different functions. Setting Z offset right before the print with hot nozzle so takes into consideration expansion and whatnot and gives you a way to do fast adaptive bed meshes also before every print.

>>2868363
>prusa on top of it monitors the active squish with the loadcell while printing
I've heard people say this, but I've never seen anything from Prusa to back it up. Prusa says it's used for "Z homing, bed meshing and X/Y nozzle alignment." They've repeated this in regards to the XL and the Mk4. I don't know where people get the idea that their machines do any kind of active monitoring of squish during the first layer, I haven't seen anything from Prusa that suggests that.

>>2868371
I started looking around for articles about it and i really cant find anything. I swear I even saw the settings for it in the xl menu. It must be some weird mandela effect or prusa marketing got to me and implanted me with that idea.

>>2865900
I was thinking of giving my upgraded Ender 3 as a Christmas present to a younger family member, since I'll be upgrading to a K1C
It's running Klipper from a laptop. He's kind of a dumbass, so I think the current setup will be too difficult for him. Is it possible for me to mount a spare RPI 3B+ with a 7" Touchscreen and run an OS for finding models, slicing with Cura, and running Klipper, or is that too much for a Raspberry Pi?

As far as bed probes, I think clicky (or BLtouch I guess) makes the most sense, as it’s low-force, simple, and measures the actual bed height unlike inductive probes. But it would be nice to have a way to calibrate Z offset for different beds and nozzles automatically. So I’d also want to have a platform next to the build plate that it can touch the clicky off against and doesn’t change height when the bed changes, and a switch next to that where the nozzle itself can touch off against. That way you have a zero reference with respect to both the nozzle and the bed.

But that eddy current sensor that can scan across the bed is nice and quick. I wonder if we’ll ever have a sliding mechanical level sensor that can do the same thing. Or maybe ultrasonic. Maybe optical if you have some sort of angled reflection setup, actually that’s a good idea I’ll look into that myself.

is there a thing to turn stereoscopic images (jps, mpo) into models in a similar vein as 2d photogrammetry? even though the 3d fad was 5ever ago and really never went anywhere besides the movie theater, everyone and their mother has/had a 3ds (I even still have my htc evo3d) so it's not like basic hobby level hardware for it is that difficult to come by.

>>2868370
>>2868371
>>2868375
Couldn't find anything as well. So might as well be Prusa being Prusa. Heck, might not even be surprised if some fanboy started the rumor.

>>2868367
Not sure if we're talking past each other, but i never indented to put bedslingers into subject. Plenty of heavy beds around the Voron and Ender5 community. These are the only group of enthusiasts who'll care anyway.

>>2868390
>He's kind of a dumbass
Those sitting in a glass house..

>>2868390
Does a 3B+ have enough CPU power for slicing?

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Behold the bambukil...ack
https://youtu.be/YLzQhrdXodQ

>>2868455
It's slow yes, but if you know what you're doing and automate slice -> print, it doesn't really matter.

give it to me straight anons:
bambu lab: a 3d printing revolution or just massive marketing campain?

>>2868662
Neither, you retarded baiting faggot.

>>2868667
it's a genuine question. last time I shopped for a 3d printer there was no bambu. but when I look at recommendations now it's 95% "buy bambu or bust" but something about it smells fishy, hence my question

>>2868674
The answer is still neither, it's not a revolution, it's not just marketing wank. They make good printers and they're a better value than their biggest competitor: Prusa. That's it, that's the whole thing.

>>2868662
if you were there when the x1c launched you will know that it was a genuine revolution.
in 2022 it
>was 2x faster than everything else
>had prusa quality
>was a still cheaper than comparable printers
look at the offerings here between june and december 2023:
https://web.archive.org/web/20230602210609/https://www.matterhackers.com/store/c/3d-printers/best-selling-3d-printers
https://web.archive.org/web/20231209172928/https://www.matterhackers.com/store/c/3d-printers/best-selling-3d-printers

>>2868682
Meh. The only genuine innovation they brought to the table was their own software/an alternative to Marlin/Klipper/RRF. Else they just did what people told Prusa to do: Take a Voron and give it a bit commercial software support magic. Alas he turned lazy and foul, but without Bambu we likely would've seen the same evolution. Although it probably would've started with adaptations like the Troodon and SV06 instead.

>>2868682
>>2868691
The "revolution" was a mass producable design.
Vorons are not mass produceable, neither are Prusas, reprap and common component autism inherently doesn't scale the same way purpose built designs do.

There is a hysteria that a design that is easy for the hobbyist to source and assemble is inherently good for producing 100k+ units. IDK why it took so long for a single company to buck that idea.

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>>2868695
Yeah, no one had that idea ever before. Now fuck off back to/g/.

>>2868674
They're good printers. At least at the time of release, the X1C was the most like an appliance rather than a fiddly gadget of all the printers I had used. It's an out-of-the-box "press a button and get a part" experience that still has pretty much all the potential for fiddling and fine-tuning that you could want.
The AMU also totally shat on Prusa's options for multi-color/material printing at the time.
I'm not as up-to-date on the scene these days, but I used to work in a university makerspace. We ran all Mk3s but got an X1C to see what the hype was about when they were new. I left a couple months later but my boss tells me he ditched the Prusas for Bambus basically as soon as he could.

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>>2868696
Malyan isn't real, anon.

>>2868696
I think that sort of construction (sheet metal?) doesn't really suit a bedslinger's gantry, at least not the the same extent as it suits a coreXY or other cubic cartesian printer. A bedslinger takes advantage of the dimensional uniformity and torsional stiffness of an aluminium extrusion (compared to the same mass of steel). A cubic printer doesn't need that at all as it gets stiffness from the whole cubic frame.

is there any way to adjust the time the printer waits until beginning the print after reaching the target temperature ?
scanning cfg and adv didnt yield the desired result neither did the search engines
i noticed the time to start the print is significantly shorter when i start a print, then stop the print, move printhead to idle position and restart the loaded file, there is at best a second delay unlike when printing form scratch after zeroing all axis and heating the bed / nozzle, it always takes up to 20 sometimes more seconds.
when i slow down the hotend cooling fan manually this time decreases and the initial print starts quicker.
i throttled the hotend cooling fan already to 50%
used pid autotune with all fans on 100%
any ideas appreciated

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Vase mode chads get in here!
Trying to make a giant pill shaped lamp out of two pill halves. The white upper shell will be back lit.
I've tried to print it in vase mode on my CR-10. It turned out well, except the middle dome section - see pic.
Is there any way to optimize parameters to make it work? I can do test prints with just the dome section.

Settings:
Cura spiralize outer contour
0.4 mm nozzle
0.8 mm line width (oversquishing)
0.175mm layer height
35 mm/s speed

>>2867960
I ran some tests using my earlier failed mold prints, since the portions that did print are solid.
Pouring the wax in and turning it to coat the walls works, but the additional poured layers don't homogenize. The shape of the final candle ends up fine, but visually it looks messed up because it's not all one solid block of wax. You can see fault lines running through it and lighter/darker areas and such.
Fortunately, simply pouring all the wax in at once seems to work fine. I imagine this is because I'm melting the wax at right about the temperature where PLA softens (60 Celsius) but when I pour it in, the mold's temperature doesn't immediately equal that of the wax. As the PLA is heating, the wax is cooling, so the PLA itself wouldn't ever actually reach 60C. I don't know if the mold would survive a hundred candles or even a dozen, but I've made a few now with the same partial mold and I see no noticeable deformation.

Not sure why I thought this would work.. should have least used 100% infill and a circle instead of square and thicker.. though maybe I'll make it thinner and print another wall like 1cm gap put and fill it with epoxy resin.. used the damn belt tool to take off my oil filter this time.. next 5000km I'll try again

Also speaking of car parts, seen a 3d printed electric turbo/charger that did seem to work to some extent, I can use make the turbine blade thicker and the whole thing larger, and rather than electric run it off a belt like a supercharger hmm

Maybe like ASA CF, Nylon CF or PETG CF, though PC CF is also an option too.. though I could also just make a compression mould for the turbine blade and press resin with chopped carbon Fibre together

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>>2868839
Missing Pic rel, I tried superglue glass Fibre cloth around it after it cracked but no Bueno

>>2868839
>>2868840
Is this meant for removing an oil filter?
As tight as those can be, I ended up just spending $12 on a pair of oil filter pliers after the first time I ever had to remove one.

>>2868842
Yeah, the stores here do not sell the cup size for the filter I use - Z495ST, I had one bur housemate took it when it he moved out etc, I use a belt wrench but it's a ridiculous pain in the ass because the filter is vertically mounted in a small gap through the exhaust headers. I don't wanna special order another filter cup socket thing, they have them in store for the z436st which I can also use but I don't wanna use a smaller filter.

>>2868840
>>2868839
Not sure what you're thinking is here. Two layers of rivers won't do jack to an already broken part. That said, if you already got fiber cloth laying around, why not do a mold for the whole thing?
Last but not least, ABS/ASA/PET/PET/PC will all do you fine. Nylon will not, unless you got an SLS machine laying around.

>>2868675
>>2868674
Ditched my ender 3 pro earlier this year as it was grossly underutilized due to endless printing issues. Now I have an Bambu A1 coming on wednesday, I am pumped about this being an actual usable printer. Already have some ideas on how to get the best usage out of it.

>>2868847
I had an ender 3 and replaced it with a a1 mini for similar reasons. You're in for a treat anon, I haven't had a single printing issue so far (except failure to feed filament once, which the printer diagnosed and warned me about). It's nice being able to focus on part design and not having to spend half your time troubleshooting your tools.

>>2868846
Sun was setting just did it quickly. I used the annoying ass belt wrench to take it off, don't have to worry about it for another 5000-10000km depending when I change the filter again. Printing a compression mould would take even longer, but I might do that for the turbo/supercharger idea at least for the blade part.

>>2868674

They're like the anti-Prusa, good printers, everything else about the company fucking sucks which is infuriating because they are arguably the No 1 printers right now. Even though they basically stole the printer design from Voron, stole the firmware from Klipper/Marlin, stole the slicer from Prusa*, and everything cool they've come up is purposely locked down.

They also aggressively astroturf the fuck out of any 3D printing discussion online with some very hostile bots so between that and an annoying fuckwit community you can't go anywhere without seeing BAMBOO BAMBOO YOUR PRINTER SUCKS BUY A BAMBOO HAVING ANY PROBLEMS WITH YOUR PRINTER? YOU SHOULD HAVE BOUGHT BAMBOOOOOOOOOO atm.

(*yes I know about Slic3r, but the codebase has been 95% Prusa for longer now than Slic3r was in development)

i charged like $15 for 3d printing a petg custom bowl for a motorcycle. its simple but im ngmi this way. how much should i have charged though as an expat in thailand.

>>2868856
I bought a p1s and now I'm like "buy a bambu". Not a bot.
>locked down
The slicer is open source iirc, as is orca slicer, you can print by LAN and SD card, there is also an app coming or out now that is for LAN printing mode as well. The X1C enabled on one of their firmware versions deliberate rooting so you can install third party open source firmware. There's officially supported third party parts. Bambus own spare parts aren't expensive. There's also a tonne of unofficial third party parts.

If you want to see what an actual locked down printer looks like, look at the HeyGears, only their slicer works iirc and you can't even use the slicer unless it can login into their cloud.

Basically if they disappear you have a paper weight, if Bambu disappears your printer still works and there are still a tonne of parts.

the alternative to the bamboo is the k1. it doesnt do multiple colors but who cares about that shiite

>>2868822
I would try it upside down which will solve the hole but it'll fall over and I don't think Cura makes it easy to add supports which might possibly be ones you print flat and then fold up .

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just 3d printed this shell right here.
quiet proud of myself as the measurememts came exact.
made it in fusion 360

Any courses for Solidworks?

>>2868867

The slicer is open-source because it's literally a reskinned version of someone else doing all the work, except for the networking bits that they did make proprietary.

They didn't enable the X1C rooting, someone already found a way to hack it regardless which they then played off as """graciously allowing""" in subsequent updates. You still can't run Klipper or anything, it's just a shitty add-on on top of the existing firmware that actually lets you see things such as your bed mesh (but still no logs).

As far as the parts go, sure for how long? If your glued in idler pulleys go, they expect you to buy a whole upper gantry to replace a $1 consumable part. It's easy enough to say all that while it's only been two years, but 3D printing is a massive fad right now due to all the fags selling articulated dragons at the market stalls and that growth will eventually dry up.

If you have an A1/P1S/X1C you're not going to have a reason to upgrade to a better printer. If you don't have an A1/P1S/X1C, you will probably be better off just getting one of those second-hand instead of spending twice as much for whatever new thing they will try to come up with.

Their current revenue is in no way sustainable, ergo, sooner or later they will very obviously try fuck you in this ass with all sorts of enshittification bullshit to try and keep maintaining their bottom line.

I know I'll have the last laugh because the VORON lot will still be there fucking around with their z-offsets in 2050, but it's frustrating seeing people miss the forest for the trees.

>>2868822
Maybe just print most of the shape in vase mode (up to 45° perhaps), but print the end of the dome in normal mode with supports or infill, and stick the two together.

>>2868946
This "what if" nonsense has been going around for since Bambu first came to market. None of it has manifested.

I for one don't understand the idea that Bambu labs is just doing loss leaders to trap people later. What is it about there printers that make them much more expensive to make than their price suggests?

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Not sure what happened.. right side piece looks fine so I'll let it run and reprint the left piece once I'm home

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do i have to buy this fuckin thing on their gay website? i don't trust chang to not fuck me if i get a lemon or something.
finally deciding to drop the bucks. ender 3 is going to be donated to my dad.

>>2869097
oh at tgat price its worth it i thought tgey were like a thousand for those

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Sup, is there a way to fix the T-nut mount on the E3D Hemera? mine are broken like picrel

>>2869097
I got mine off their site and arrived in 2 business days (Australia tho) Amazon was more expensive. Also upgraded from an ender 3 to a p1s.

>>2868925
good job anon, what is it tho?

>>2868867
>Heygears
I really don't understand this comparison
>They're better than one of the worst
Ok, and? Good for them they're not *that* bad?

>>2868946
>>2868990
They're sitting on CCP money and tried/-ish to corner the prosumer market while other companies already tackled the low end segment. That's not even a conspiracy, but standard trade and prosper behaviour.

>>2869070
From the vague screenshot you seems to have several eary layers, look into that. Maybe just some dirt on your z-rods.

>>2869118
If it's an original, support/warranty? Else make your own metal clip, cut off a washer, etc..

>>2869135
i made the thing on the right. it covers the thong on the left which is a head light for a motorcycle.

Spent a day porting Marlin to new board. Got all the core stuff working, so I went to start turning on perfectly normal features, and god dammit what the fuck. How is the ESP32 HAL so incomplete? I know there aren't a lot of ESP32 based boards, but there are a handful, they're cheap, they have built in WiFi, and Marlin supports a dozen different ones now natively. How the fuck has nobody finished the HAL implementation? Can't use TFT displays, can't use TMC UART, this is fucked. I'm glad this new board is destined for a vinyl cutter because I couldn't deal with this on a 3D printer. GAAAY

>>2869255
>ESP32
Haven't heard of ESP32 mainboards before. Does sending files via wifi work? Are there other wifi features, like getting status updates (e.g. runout/jam detection)?

>>2869285
Yup, Marlin has ESP3D's Wifi interface built into it. So the mainboard can just host a Wifi server with an Octoprint-like interface, and gives you the features you'd expect from that. Transfers are still slow, copying something to SD over Wifi this way is still slow as fuck, though faster than the common Wifi addon modules (which all run ESP3D). The experience really is almost exactly the same as just running any other printer with ESP3D added on, which is very similar to Octoprint. MKS makes the TinyBee, there's the PandaZHU, there are others but they're mostly hobby projects rather than commercial products. It's fine, it works, but for these >>2869255 reasons I don't really recommend any ESP32 board right now. Had I realized the HAL implementation was so unfinished I'd have picked something more common and just added an ESP3D module to it. Now I'm missing out on using my cheap displays (I have 5 I cannot use for this), TMC UART (no current adjustment, no sensorless homing, no driver debugging), can't even use a serial smart display without disabling Wifi entirely because you can't use a 3rd serial port. If anyone ever really wants to put in the work to finish the HAL implementation in Marlin for the ESP32 they certainly could alleviate these problems, but I sure as shit am not going to spend my time on that.

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If I understand it correctly, BTT Eddy uses an analog input on the mainboard to measure a voltage with some relation to the height of the sensor with respect to the bed. It is intended for use with Klipper. Would it be possible to do this with Marlin? I was thinking of making a cheap optical sensor that can do the same continual scanning technique, but I'm unsure if it would be feasible in Marlin.

I think by changing the geometry of the optical system, especially the angle of the sensor and light emitter, but also changing the angular width of the emitted and received light, you could eliminate spurious responses.

>>2869290
That's still good to know. Is it worth buying an existing ESP32 mainboard? Though it would only really be worth doing if it's as good as a standard silent STM32 mainboard while being cheaper. I'd guess that if you couldn't manage it, the other boards also won't have TMC UART, but they might be compatible with a display.

>>2869292
Mind you btt eddy is the worst out of the 3 most popular eddy solutions for printers. They are using semi-native integration of the probe in their own forked klipper. Carto/beacon use their own software to do all the scanning and whatnot and then just send data to klipper. Carto devs were hoping to switch to native klipper support but its bad. Native klipper functions for eddy probes are still in infancy and apparently annoying to use so people just write their own solutions.

>>2869295
>Is it worth buying an existing ESP32 mainboard?
Unless someone wants to put the effort into fully supporting the ESP32 in Marlin, it's absolutely not worth it in my opinion, not for running Marlin anyway.

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Anybody have or have experience with an Ender 5 Pro? I know, not the best design, especially now but even when it was more popular for what it was. How would you improve on the one sided Z axis motor? Thinking about going CoreXY ZeroG upgrade method, but I haven't looked into it for a while. Any new advancements or no-brainer upgrades? I'll probably get a BL touch here soon.

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>>2869292
You're more than decade late for that party.

>>2869374
Grease.

>>2869375
>Grease
Care to elaborate?

Any good places to pirate paid models? I'm from the Third World, I can't afford paying for 3d models.
I would if I could.

>>2869378
Telegram all stl links to a bunch of them iirc

>>2869375
Ah, so it uses two seperate IR receiving LEDs, that's a good idea. Does it send analog values though? Or does it just send out a pulse when their values are equal? Also is it any good? Without the shrouds I wonder if it would be set off by spurious reflections, especially off modern PEI beds.

I'm specifically looking for something that can do a continuous sweep like the eddy probes.

>>2869378
so many 3d models for free and your going to dig into telegram just to fibd the ones that arent tsk tsk

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Is there a better option than the p1s with ams for less than 950$ CAD?
This is on sale now and im very tempted. It would be my first printer ive owned but ive used many printers at work such as an ultimaker s7 before and an ams for different material types would be really nice. I hear the current bambu printers are very fast and high quality.
I just dont like the cloud aids.
Can any other printer compete?

>>2869483
>Is there a better option than the p1s with ams for less than 950$ CAD?
Nope.

>>2865900
>get bored yesterday
>decide to tune my Ender 3
>level the print bed for the first time in 2 years
>tighten the belts and z axis for the first time ever
>try 0,20 instead of 0,28 for once
Holy shit it actually looks and prints nice
Bambulab and Prusa fags cope and seethe

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I scanned this tool and I'm gonna do stuff with the model later on but it would be really really great if I could have it aligned perfectly along the x, y, and z axis first. I know I can always eyeball it but is there a better way to make sure the bottom is FLAT on the ground and its not tilting in any one direction?

>>2869524
you bought a 3d scanner without knowing how to rotate a model?
oh boy.
just import it into blender snd press r.

>>2869537
Like I said, I know how to rotate it, I just don't know how to rotate it with mathematical precision when I only have a bunch of faces on the bottom that are either flat, or very close to flat but not quite, and I don't know which ones are which.

>>2869524
I use Fusion360, it has tools for doing exactly this. You can select a flat face on the model by averaging multiple points, with 2 perpendicular faces you can align the entire model as you please to a fair degree of accuracy, as good as you can expect from a scan anyway. Youtube "align mesh fusion360" or something if you want to see the process, it's not complicated.

>>2869511
based

>>2869524
That's a good quality scan, did you do post-processing to it?

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>>2869548
click on the model and then on the right panel on blender under the orange box icon itll show you the scale and rotation settings.

>>2869553
it's going to be an stl or an obj or something and probably pretty unpleasant to work with in f360. i don't know what a better tool would be though. nta but i've tried to fuck around with scans in blender and the work flow is really unintuitive. like, not having a history you can roll back, etc. i'd want something like fusion360 but for mesh editing. like, boring holes through a mesh or splitting parts off and moving them/scaling them etc. i was trying to put index pins/holes in a scan in blender and after printing i didn't like how they lined up, and i basically had to do the entire process over again.

>>2869562
Nigga I just said Fusion has tools for this, for meshes, for aligning mesh surfaces. It's not "unpleasant", it's quick and easy.

>>2869524
The quality on that is INCREDIBLE. What's the name/model of your scanner?

>>2869374
No experience here. I would recommend doing both the Ender 5 mods at once, if you are going to mod it. Otherwise, just toss a better direct drive hotend setup on there, and use the rest of the money to snag another printer (as long as you have the space)

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could i make an MMU work with a p1p? all the parts are there, why not?

>>2869609
The tough part would be getting it to speak with the P1P. You'd have to reverse engineer the protocol and hope it's possible to spoof an AMS. It might be easier with an X1C, since it has rooted firmware now.

>>2869578
Creality Ferret pro, but I think any of the 3 ferret models should in theory have the same quality.

I've done some scans where I used the reflector dot stickers, and in the scan it picks up the height of the sticker above the thing its stuck to. Its crazy. Unfortunately there are some things that it doesn't scan particularly well, flat reflective black objects with lots of nooks and crannies, but that would be the case with pretty much anything I'd imagine.

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>>2869578
>>2869623
Also one time I managed to make this happen... But yeah its really nice in general. Its tripod it comes with is a really inconvenient size but thats not a big deal.

https://youtu.be/kFhfX2z-vXQ?si=zBvx9zCYcRnnEIxV

3d printing chocolate

>>2869697
i wish she would 3d print her chocolate into my mouth

Man, having a printer and being able to do basic 3D modeling is like a really low-grade superpower.
The condensate drain line on my mini-split AC was clogged, and I couldn't snake a piece of wire through it from either end to knock shit loose. So I got some aquarium tubing and a 300ml syringe that were sitting around, printed an adapter from the tubing to the outside end of the drain line, and used the syringe to suck out a big pile of mystery goop. No more drainage problems!
Took like 20 minutes total to design and print, instead of ordering some weird specialty adapter offline and waiting a minimum of 24 hours to have a fully functioning AC again. If I were a mobile handyman or something, I'd totally be trying to figure out some shock-absorbent installation to keep a printer in the van without rattling it to pieces.

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why the FUCK is my extruder skipping
the model literally looks flawless, it's like the skipping isn't lowering the quality whatsoever somehow
1mm nozzle, it's done this with PLA and now PETG
I don't get it. If I guide the filament into the extruder myself, helping it, it stops skipping. But again, it doesn't impact the model either way. I can lower the speed, in the slicer or the tuning of the printer, and it stops for a few minutes and then starts again. I tightened and loosened the gears fro the extruder arm etc, no changes. I adjust the flow, no changes. I'm thinking of trying temperature, maybe if it's too high it's causing backpressure or something? But you need to have high temp for 1mm nozzle right?
It only ever skips if it turns continuously too, so in the longer stretches of the wall or infill or top/botttom, sure, but whenever it's retracting or moving it doesn't skip. So maybe the extruder's stepper motor is overheating? If so, how could I fix that other than slowing down???
It's a stock Ender 3 pro I bought several years ago, apart from this new extruder stepper motor + extruder gear assembly, which are aluminum. They've done FINE up until now. And I mean technically they're still fine, cus it prints fine despite the skipping, but wtf.
What do I do?????

>>2869627
"Ryobi fighter jet" is a model I would print if you put it on thingaverse.
>>2869864
1mm nozzle? Are you sure you aren't just exceeding your hot-end's max flow rate? That's Volcano territory.

>>2869864
Speed and layer height?

>>2869866
I've seen that mentioned a couple times now... I might fiddle with the flow rate first (again) but if it fails I'll swap to a .8 I guess.

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>>2869483
>>2869489
I did it
I cant friggin wait bros
Should be here on monday and i have the day off work
What should i print first?

>>2869869
It would be speed, really. And heat.
Try more heat, like LOTS more heat.
Your problem sounds like a long extrusion moves enough plastic through the melt chamber that it cools down to where it can't reliably melt the filament. This is usually the fault of a too-small melt chamber. The plastic isn't in there long enough to melt.
The E3D valcano works by having a larger melt chamber. It uses the same size heater as the standard E3Dv6. Interestingly, it turns out you can just use a volcano nozzle in a standard v6 block and it flows as much as a volcano block. You don't even need the bigger block.
Sort of upgrading your hot end, your best option is to jack the print temp and keep that plastic melting.

>>2869872
Lucky Canadian will never pay the 60% trump tariff on ChinaPrinters.
Buy your filament now bros, prices jack soon.

>>2869864
>It only ever skips if it turns continuously
You could be exceeding max constant flow rate. You could try CHT nozzle, but first try tuning and setting max flow rate in Orca Slicer.
If it's not that, you can try increasing the motor current. (VREF pot and all that stuff)

Best filament deals rn? I really only print in PLA and PETG, need some really sturdy low creep plastic for a project rn too.

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>>2869873
That makes perfect sense and is almost certainly what's going on. I'm already hitting 260 but I'll test how high I can get it, but I guess in the end if I can't make it much higher I can probably still slow it down. And if that lowers quality too much, I'll just swap to a .8 nozzle like the previously suggested. Thanks.

>>2869876
I think tuning the motor current might be a bit too high IQ for me, I'm a caveman slamming plastic through a tube. I think I'll try the other suggestions before getting my hands dirty with that, thank you though, I'll make a note of it regardless.

i need hardened gears and nozzle for p1s. is aliexpress clone good or do i have to get the name-brand chinese version

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Carraige on my x-axis loose. Been disassembling, re-assembly, fucking with the eccentric nut, aboout to buy new wheels and thought, fuck it, let's ask google.

And lo and fucking behond, the carraige place was bent. Grabbed a plyers and bent it back in. What in the name of chinese pig metal is the carraige plate even made of?

+1 google
-1 amazon

>>2869860
It really is. Bonus points for taking existing models and improving on them also. If these scanners get better and I can get very proficient at modeling on something better than tinkercad and use a bit of AI, it could get dangerous.

One of my models probably took 20 hours to design when I was beggining, but I think I have probably made like $2-3k off of it. A model I slapped together in like July of this year in an hour is probably already at the $1k mark. Have another product I listed last week that just made its first sale and that took maybe 2 hours of modeling. Its nice being able to take a $15 spool of filament and turn it into hundreds of dollars. Also being able to design things for around the house has been huge. Things like jigs, adapters, drain cleanout plugs, etc etc.

Its getting more useful and making me more money as time goes on.

>>2869872
First thing you should print is a second P1S.

https://www.dynamism.com/z-polymers-tullomer-500g.html?

Anyone seen this stuff yet? $275 per 500 grams (1+ lb)

Cheaper than PEEK. Would like to see the price slashed in half or more.

>>2869919
It's a fairly new polymer, it's ludicrously high performance, it's just as bad as PEEK for printing. I've exclusively seen people whinging about wasting the roll trying to get serviceable results from their Bambu X1C using the provided profiles from Z-Polymers, I actually haven't seen a successful print made with it except those from the manufacturer. It's also 7.7% more dense than PEEK, so it's not a better value by any significant margin. ThermaX PEEK comes in at $298/500g, that's 384.6cm^3, 77.5 cents per cm^3. That Tullomer is $275/500g, that's 357.1cm^3, 73.3 cents per cm^3. So you save $1.50 per 500g roll, not that impressive for a plastic that's somehow more challenging to print than PEEK.

>>2869921
damn thats a shame. Watched a video and it looked like it was printing well. Wonder if these new bambu machines will be able to handle it. I have a feeling they are going to be more compatible with exotic materials.

Do you know anything about Igus filaments? Im needing an abrasion resistant filament, and so far from my research I think my options are Nylon 66 without fibers or stuff from the Igus line which seems to be a lubricant impregnated polymer.

>>2869933
>Do you know anything about Igus filaments?
I've never used them, but was always told they were a massive bitch to print with. However that was like 10 years ago when it was a brand new product, no hobbyist had a printer anything like what we have these days, makes me wonder if it'd actually be any challenge with an appropriate modern printer like the X1.

>>2869921
>it's just as bad as PEEK for printing
Then why the hell would someone with an X1C try to print with it? The hot end doesn't really get hot enough, the enclosure isn't actively heated, and if you do want to upgrade it, the firmware is locked down so you can't just tell it you've got a new heating element and fan.

>>2869933
>Wonder if these new bambu machines will be able to handle it
>I have a feeling they are going to be more compatible with exotic materials
I doubt they'd go out of their way for PEEK-tier filaments alone, but an actively heated chamber and better chamber air flow control might be a great QOL improvement for warp-prone materials like ABS.

>>2869937
Im very tempted to buy a spool here soon. Its like $100 for 750g but if it has properties similar to or better than nylon and can print decent on my p1s then the price seems somewhat reasonable for basically an engineering grade material.

>>2869937
>>2869971
Never heard of Igus doing filament, but looking at the specs it's basically a modified POM?

>>2869937
Why are you expecting them to have a clue about that? The average X1C owner would probably try to load a roll of aluminium filament if put in front of them.

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hello guys
i might have accidentally invented something that was inveted a long time ago, probably in 2016
i have an old glass bed ender that i wanted to clean from all the oils, glue residue and debris because bed adhesion was suffering
i thought that i might heat the bed to 90 and slather it in a layer of hot glue, then cool down and get a satisfying peel with all the crap sticking to the glue
didn't peel so now i had a bed with a layer of glue on it
thought, might as well experiment
heat to 90 again, wipe with card to get a thin and smooth layer
let it cool down to ambient
print abs with a cold bed and monstruous gorilla bed adhesion
when the part needs to come off, heat to 50 to loosen hotglue
i'll test with other filaments before my isopropyl arrives to kill hotglue

>>2869980
update
small parts don't work because they heat soak and loosen the glue, while big abs parts have enough warp in them to lift off the hotglue anyway
but
big petg parts print great for how low the energy costs are with a cold bed, bottom surface is not as pretty as on bare glass with hairspray but it'll do
pla both doesn't stick and destroys the surface, stupid piece of shit plastic

>>2869980
It's been done before, though I don't think I've seen anyone try in years. Bed adhesion isn't an issue for consumer printers anymore and hasn't been for quite awhile. If you don't have a powder-coated spring steel bed you're doing yourself a disservice, get on Amazon and spend the $10-$15 for a build plate with the magnetic sheet, you'll fucking hate yourself for not doing it 6 years ago when they first started getting popular.

>>2869988
cold bed, anon
ambient temp
it's winter now, but when it's summer, the last thing you want is a 250w heater in your home
also good for shitholes with frequent power outages, when you can have room temp bed adhesion you can just wait it out and resume later, thankfully i'm not living in one of these (yet)

>>2869993
Where did I mention heat, anon?

>>2869609
I have my old prusa mendel that I want to repair for nostalgia and giggles.
Can a MMU3 work with it if I make one?
I don't see why not, but I don't know the protocols and requirements for it.

>>2868925
made some modifications to it
https://autode.sk/3ADEtIP

where do you guys get inspiration for what to print

>>2870039
Your printer is a tool. Do you sit around staring at hammers wondering what to hammer with them, asking folks online where they get inspiration for things to hammer? Not to be a dick, I get the compulsion to use a new toy, but after the first day abusing a new chainsaw I'm good, I'm not going out and finding a tree every fucking day from then on as though I'm obligated to keep it running 24/7.

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you guys do recycle your PLA right?

>>2870044
i mostly use petg since i have a k1 i dont hate to settle for brittle sugar cane pla.

>>2870044
I haven't done it yet but I'm seperating and collecting to send to the Recyclefabrik. You just get bonus points for their shop or something but that's better than putting it in the trash I guess

Bambu bros, help. Normally I load filaments and set the colors, then resync those into the project and do my painting and whatnot. Because something else was printing I set the colors in the project and did my painting now I need to shift those to the AMS but I can't figure out how apart from manually redoing each of them. Is there a way to force filament assignments from project to AMS?

>>2870044
I've got a cast iron baking mold I've been meaning to fuck with.

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looks like I dropped my prime tower in front of the camera on a previous project. can't decide if this is going to make it more or less interesting.

>>2870044
Thought about it, then realized its just stupid unless I have a grinder + pellet printer.
I am not paying to ship waste material to someone else just so they can then sell it for profit.
Fuck off.

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>Hear about some new cool PLA
>Want to try it out
>It's US only
Why the fuck do yanks get all the cool (even if not useful) PLA all the time?
What are some good alternatives to popular yankplastics? I'm most curious about Atomic's white in particular.

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I printed this pegboard thing because I hate seeing my printer sit idle. Going to bolt the legs onto my soldering workbench. Envisioning trays or drawers for resistors and capacitors of different values. A place for flux, solder, etc. Chip programmers and emulators stored somewhere on this wall. Screw bins for concurrent projects. Going to reprint or cut out a few sections to attach boom arms directly to 2x4 for camera (social media fag) and the digital microscope I use for soldering. Might mount a screen for the digital microscope and a little hockey.

>>2868695
so what the fuck is a troodon and an sv08?

>>2870044
Yes absolutely, I return it to nature from whence it came

>>2868695
> reprap
> not mass producible
Have you never seen a fucking Ender 3 anon? It's a mendel mostly made of extrusion.

>>2870164
He already fucked off. What are you trying to stir up here?

>>2870161
Maybe a thin white or black board as background? Will help hiding a lot of dust and dirt that'll be hard to clean latter on.

>>2870135
Try English.

>>2870211
Whatever you say yankeebro.

>>2870209
Reprap is literally 3d printers printing parts for new printers.
An ender 3 is a non reprap design

>>2870211
>Maybe a thin white
this gentleman has class

>>2870135
Atomic filament is garbage that isn't worth the price. If you don't have 3dHojor then you have something to be sad about in filaments.

>>2870340
I was just curious about people saying that they have some unique white pigment that doesn't fuck up the material and flow like cheap titanium one does. As i said, i am curious about unusual in some even minor way PLAs rather than quality. As for material quality itself i am more than satisfied with esun (Save for the cold white).
Anything of note you can say about Hojor?

>>2865929
>jank-ass ender 3 pro
Whats wrong with it?
I was planning to buy one

>>2870135
I have some Atomic. Prints nice, but isn't worth the price nowadays

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Within a week
> broken tension belt - replaced
> bent carraige plate - fixed
> clogged nozzle > replaced
> calibrated e-axis
and it's still printing like absolute shit. Any ideas?

>>2870392
Dissaemble your extruder to check for broken parts

should i use .stl or .step? step files are supposedly higher res but my cad models are fairly simple and the stuff i get online is .stl so what gives?

>>2870392
re-assemble the extruder and make sure you are not suffering from heatcreap. Check if the bowden tube is nice and snugly against the heat-break too.

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Is a lo-point worth building?
Can it be printed to last a decent amount of time and not fall apart into pieces?

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>>2870442
This is /diy/, 3d gat discussion usually gets nuked. Before that happens, know that yes it can last and not fall apart, but it's a BAD design and all the people who worked on it agree with that. The gun isn't great to begin with, and the Lo-Point omits several safety mechanisms from the original. They're not drop safe, they're not "safe" in general really, at least in the sense that it's easy to make one go off unexpectedly. The fitment of the grips is critical to the function of the gun, that should frighten you. They're not dangerous in the asspload your fingies sense, it's a solid design and a dead simple straight blowback SOLID pot-metal piece of shit to begin with, it's quite safe in that regard.

>>2870445
This is more than I expected for a response.
As long as things aren't an immediate danger to myself and issues are more with things down range, I'm personally fine with that. I'm the only one going to handle it.

As a first 2a printing project I was hoping for something cheap and relatively easy but still get a result. I would build an AR but that's not a super responsible thing financially for me atm.

>>2870453
Also highly recommend the FOSS Cannon as a first project, like the Lo-point you don't need to buy a set of machined rails or anything, all the parts you'll need will be in a normal parts kit for a Taurus G2C or G3C, easy, safe, cheap.

>>2870370
Aside from the model itself being wildly outdated at this point? Mine had seen a lot of hard use and needed some replacement parts kind of badly.
Where are you seeing them for sale? Are you buying a used one? I bought mine like 3 years ago when microcenter was selling them for $100 to clear out stock ahead of new models.

>>2870412
>>2870396
Disassembled and re-assembled it, nothing. The printer is getting on 2.5 years, it's probably time to take advantage of the November sales and buy a new one.

>>2870442
>Is a lo-point worth building?
>lo-point
Before you get nuked by the jannies, go for a different firearm. You are at more risk of shooting your toes off or a nice innocent family of 4 with a lo-point than anything else.

>>2870224
>Reprap is literally 3d printers printing parts for new printers
with readily available non-specialised hardware, like motors and threaded rod
what counts as "readily available non-specialised hardware" is in the eye of the beholder

I'm moving from the prusa slicer to cura but i can't seem to get it to show me all of the settings in the "print settings" window, i have set setting visibility to all so I'm not sure what's up.
Help would be appreciated.

>>2866659
>sovol
SV06's of an variety are complete trash.

>>2870590
Nvm I'm tarded.

>>2870523
If its a bowden setup check the extruder gear. Mine was worn down and i had similar issues. The extruder and the extruder motor are the only things that could be affected.
And if it still wont work maybe the stepper drivers are overheating after eating dust for 2.5 years.

how do i change the infill% of the middle portion of a 3d model? is it possible?

>>2870631
i think i got it. i cut the middle portion in the slicer and change the infill settings for that. ill try that.

>>2870631
>>2870643
You're probably looking for modifiers. Add an object like a ball or cube. Move it to the middle of the object and add infill settings to. Of course you can get more fancy by using a separate smaller shell of your original version, but i think you get the idea.

>>2868800
nah bro the anycubic i3 was great. the sheetmetal gantry was a superb thing. extrusions are retarded things to fiddle with, the bolted joints can shift out of place. none of that mess with a solid sheetmetal piece. ran these things for years before switching to bambu.

>>2868939
solidworks has tutorials built in.

>>2870412
I think step are for CNC. you never need anything but .stl for an FDM printer.

>>2870712
ive been picking it up as i go along desu. draft>extrude, move, fillet, patch etc...
i had sone prior freecad expirience but i was doing it like a retard on freecad and mushibg primitives together with the cut modifiers.

>>2870716
Don't offer your opinion about shit you know nothing about, makes you look retarded.

>>2868025
>injection molded ABS
ABS kinda sucks (dissolves in sunlight, etc.) but it molds well. So well you can significantly reduce polycarbonate injection molding costs by simply mixing in 10% ABS.
None of this makes it better for FDM.
>>2867718
>PLA become so weak and brittle over time that it's virtually useless for anything. ... I've found parts that literally just fell apart years after they were made.
Good Lord. My oldest part on hand is seven years old, and it's still stiff. It's from the first roll I ever bought, 3D Solutech. What have you been buying?

>>2870392
wot printer

>>2867718
Meanwhile, some varieties of PLA are still some of the highest performance materials you can print, with incredible strength, impact resistance, and inter-layer adhesion, making some kinds of PLA the standard "reference" material for 3D printing firearms, often outperforming various Nylon, Polycarbonate, and fiber-reinforced materials.

>>2870412
>>2870716
Yes, step is more precise, but rather so by preserving geometric details. stl just saves a bunch of triangles. More importantly for 3d printing is software intercompatibility. You can import steps freely into fusion, onshape, Freecad, etc., while stl will always have to recalculated from mesh.
This makes it excellent for sharing and collaboration. Think about throwing an exe out there vs sharing your whole source code properly.

>>2870711
It still is. Several Anycubic Mega bros in this thread even.

Do we have really hard TPU filaments yet? I mean like D80 shore hardness.

>>2870841
Ninjatek Armadillo 75D, Proto-Pasta has a 70D Rigid TPU, and we are getting some 75D and 80D coming out of China now but it's being sold to the industrial market, I haven't seen it on 1kg spools, or on Aliexpress/Amazon.

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>bigger X1
>same price
>2years later
>universally called a "might be challenger"
Jesus Christ, is the commercial market really that grim by now?

>>2870854
>is the commercial market really that grim by now?
In 2008 a 3D printer that could keep up with the print quality and speed of an Ender 3 would run you over $60k, with less shit options around $100k. Within 5 years they had competitors meeting their specs with sub-$500 printers and matching their reliability for under $2k. The commercial market already died, what exists now doesn't even try to compete in the FDM space anymore, they're focused on tech that the DIY market can't remotely approach yet.

>>2870859
Even though i think it's obvious "commercial market" was just referring to everything out of diy wonderland, there's still plenty of big business stuff to be approached. Mainly SLS, but even MJF might get there.

so is the x1c really worth the extra money over the p1s
im upgrading from an ender 3 v2

>>2870866
No, you can get all the important capability with a P1S and an upgraded extruder gear/hotend set. You miss out on LiDAR, the good camera, spaghetti detection, and the carbon-fiber rods, it's a very small loss for a huge difference in price that won't affect your ability to get high quality and very fast prints.

>>2870866
post your e3v2, im curious at what point people are upgrading from. I told myself id do more mods on mine but at this point i sorta dont want to anymore

>>2870869
Why do these replies always leave out the more powerful bed, one of the few things that actually matter?

>>2870870
its pretty stock. all i really did was do the yellow springs red bed turners, the red extruder gear set, and the blue ptfe tube

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>>2870870
>>2870876
oh also i added a bltouch. here is the pic

>>2870874
I always forget, though you can remove that restriction if you want and push it to 135C, higher than an out-of-the-box X1C. There are even kits to make it plug-and-play easy if you're not actually a /diy/er.

>>2870879
Didn't know that. I've only seen the mods where they replace the whole bed for solid aluminium yet.

>>2870883
Yeah folks are splicing in shit to fuck with the temp sensor, then you set your desired bed temp off a chart where 100C == 135C. It works fine, the machines handle it fine, but it is pretty hacky. I've seen the plug-and-play kits that add a switch so you can easily switch between normal profiles and "scaled" profiles, that definitely makes it easier to live with.

>>2870859
That was all because some patents expired.

Anyone try the creality raptor 3d scanner? Is it actually any good? The facebook groups and subreddits are astroturfed to hell and it's just chinkshit brands shitting on each other using hired shills and bot accounts