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I want to get a 3d printer.
I will use it to print small parts, adapters, spacers, and washers.
I'm white trash but super handy.
what do I need to know?
my understanding is I create or download a blueprint, it goes into a program to slice it into layers, I then take that sliced layer instructions to the printer.

I hear they are finicky and require maintenance. I'm fine doing maintenance but I just want a reliable parts printer.
I'm clever enough to trouble shoot but old enough to not want to and bitch about technology.
I'm your open minded dad and I'm asking you for help on what I should know. recommendations and of course the bad parts of it all.

I'm married and my wife would probably print little figurines of Pokemon and stuff too.
>>
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here is an example of something I'd love to be a softer or smoother harder plastic over knocking my cuticles on it.
>>
I appreciate you all and eagerly await help from people smarter than myself in the subject of 3d printing.
have a duck as a thank you. I am rural handy white trash.
>>
>>2870225
Watch youtube videos about 3D printing, there's more than enough material out there. You'll want to learn at least Fusion 360 or Blender so you can design your own parts, just downloading shit others made is useless.
>>2870226
That falls into "big parts" as far as 3D printing goes. It'd take like 1-2 days to print something that big on a basic printer. In general if you can easily use stock material for something, it's better and cheaper to do that than to 3D print. In this case, maybe round the edges or replace it with hard polystyrene.

For starters you have to decide if, despite everything, you want to get a big printer that can print big things or you'll stick with the usual 200x200mm bed size. Keeping in mind that even if you're willing to wait 2 days for a big part to print, there's a non-zero chance that in 2 days something will go wrong with the print and you can scrap the part. Big printers tend to be more expensive, but there are some budget options.
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I have also read through a lot of >>2865900 but all that seems to be people beyond where I'm at. I've never done this.
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>>2870234
thank you this is the kind of information I'm looking for.
learn blender and fusion 360. I didn't have those words to know what I needed to know.

I'm not interested in huge prints, I understand something like that be time consuming and a luxury.

chances are, day to day it would be used to print shims and adapters and maybe brackets depending on how rigid it be

I also understand you can save time and money by doing skeletal inlays rather than infilling completely on something like that large spacer.


I'd like to print dust shields for my batteries and an exhaust diverter for vacuums.

nothing huge and I understand these can take 2 to 3 days to print and even fail on the 3d day cause if something silly.


I hope I'm being realistic in my expectations. put me down if I'm not.
>>
>>2870234
most YouTube 3d printing shit im finding feels gross, like they are advertising. it's all over the place with materials and prints uses
I did learn about resin vs extruding and found a wood worker who doesn't do much other than print farm anymore.
so I learn what a print farm was but he again, was way beyond what I'm after.

I hope that makes sense. I will keep looking and learning. but It feels so tech bro secret ad gross sometimes.
Bambu especially.
>>
>>2870239
It's manageable, exhaust diverter would for example be more of a modeling challenge than a printer one.
>>2870241
Depending on your budget it's probably going to be either an ender 3 variant or maybe a Prusa if you want something that requires less fiddling to work well. Just pick something with a heated bed. Relevant filaments are
>PLA: easy to print with, general use, very intolerant to heat (deforms above 45-50C), mostly cheap
>PETG: general use, warps more than PLA (anything larger than a few cm can deform and detach from the print bed if you don't design around it), good heat/chemical/weather resistance, cheap
>ASA: similar to PETG but better (warps less), but also more expensive
>ABS: very good heat resistance, very bad warping, bad UV resistance, cheap
>TPU: flexible filament, expensive
Manufacturer, I use cheap SUNLU chink filament and it works, more expensive filament tends to cause less problems (mainly layer adhesion).

Maybe also ask in the 3d printing general for printer recommendation.
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>>2870293
you are very appreciated. thank you.
>>
>>2870225
>I want to get a 3d printer.
Learn to read and use the appropriate thread >>>/diy/
>>
>>2870332
see
>>2870235

maybe I'm not the one with a issue reading my good sir.
>>
>>2870336
Guess you're just a retard then. Good luck, cad might get a bit complicated for you.
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>>2870235
>I've never done this.
i was right where you're at a couple years back. i always dismissed 3d printing as gay, since whenever you go try to look stuff up, it's mid-30s balding weirdos making iron man masks and lightsabers and shit.
i had specific things i wanted to be able to do, and didn't want to buy different machines for everything, so i settled on a snapmaker. it was fine for babby's first printer/cnc, but i quickly outgrew it. that sucked for two reasons:
1. it's an expensive ecosystem to buy into, especially with all the accessories and addons; and
2. it's slow and old. when i got it back in (i think) '21, it seemed pretty fancy, but then all the core x/y shit started coming out and i'm sitting here waiting 18hrs for prints like an asshole. fuck that.
a nickel's worth of free advice: just get one of the small ones for now. bambu mini or a cheap creality one, just to try it all on for size, then upgrade later if you want. you'll only be out a couple hundred bucks, and can probably pawn it off on one of the aforementioned mid-20s balding weirdos if you decide it's not for you.
like someone else said, you'll probably want to get into a cad program, but you don't absolutely have to. my first few prints were just shit i downloaded, just to get into the swing of things.
picrel. first thing i ever printed. little holster/bit holder for my wowstick.
>>
>>2870342
fuck off you worthless turd. at least it's not another bingo thread. fuck do you contribute around here? endless back and forth with the namefags about tool brands?
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>>2870225
It’s not that expensive it’s only about $1000, 3d printing was my first foray into writing gcode which turned into a job programming cnc mills (just 3 axis and I was barely getting into rotary tables and 4axis /tombstone work with g52 before leaving )
>>
>>2870293
I swapped over to prusa filament because sunlu kept having chunks of random shit in it causing jams on 20+ hour prints
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>>2870239
For your needs, you’d be better off just buying prints off somebody who already has a print farm

You have to store, setup, maybe build and maintain a printer for such light duty use.

Plus you’re starting from nothing… no knowledge so add on the time (years) it takes to learn CAD from scratch, learn how to measure for backlash on a 3 axis cnc machine you build from a kit, learn how 3d printer tool paths work, layer adhesion, learn the nuances between engineering plastics petg vs carbonX etc

Or you could just pay some kid $14 and he’ll send you a print free shipping in the mail
>>
>>2870225
I recommend looking for a 3D printing club or meetup in your area to talk with enthusiasts. There might be workshops at the library or community college. It was thanks to a 3D printing meetup like this that allowed me to talk to a group of guys who were really into the hobby, which led to me buying a PRUSA MINI and goddamn do I have so much fun with it (and I've made a bunch of money too). Welcome and good luck!
>>
>>2870401
You are unvelievably wrong.
I bought a used prusa mini a year ago and it just works. I haven't had to mess with it at all. Every couple weeks when I want to print something, I just do.
Learning modeling software also isn't a big deal, especially if OP is only making simple parts like wedges and circles.
Blender is piss easy and good enough for home modeling. Also chances are anything OP wants to print are already available on thingiverse.
I'm mad about this. You don't have to be an expert to begin using a tool. 3D printing is so easy.
>>
>>2870226
Get a sheet of plastic and cut it.
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>>2870225
Dont know where you live but where i live you can get modded ender 3's for like 50$ and better printers under 100$. The most maintenance you will be doing is un-jamming the hotend and replacing consumables like some gears and pulleys. My printer has thousands of hours under its belt and so far all i had to do is replace a belt and the extruder gear. Depending on the printer you might have to mod it a little to prevent annoying issues. I got one that had bad overheating and clogging so i installed a better cooling system and now it can run without issues for kinda forever. All problems i get nowadays is not slicing correctly. Also after a point all issues are on you, the user. Even chink trash can be good enough for you to use it for years. You just gotta learn 3d printing and browsing the web wont do that to a sufficient extent. Go to facebook marketplace or whatever is the equivalent in your country, get a nice used printer and go to /3dpg/ if you are having trouble.

Also stuff like >>2870226 is not 3d printed. You can make mounts for a separator but it itself is too big to be printed reasonably. That piece of wood is probably cheaper than the filament needed to print a part that is that big and strong.
>>
I can see how people that aren't good with their hands or are cranking out 100's of the same little trinket could benefit from a 3d printer...

Myself though, it honestly wouldn't be worth it for me. If I need a washer or spacer i could cut one out of steel or turn one on the lathe way faster and it will be out of any material i prefer not just plastic.
>>
>>2870342
I'm sure if you can't read you arnt the guy I'd want to learn anything from.
or is this a you got no idea how to teach or where to start so you're just here to feed your ego?
I wouldn't worry about it. I'm not worried about you.

you'd be wise to operate with more humility. you can't eat plastic novelties ding dong.
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>>2870409
thank you. I havnt actually used anything 3d printed and got no idea the strength of the objects printed.

if I printed something like Wall spacers, think like a rounded washer with 3 or 4 mm depth. would those hold up to being used as washers? would they shatter or would they bend and mold?

could you use to stop water the way you would use tyvek nails with the plastic caps?
I understand cost wise these be 200x more expensive than just buying a box.
I live 45 minutes from the closest store and drive a f150 and sometimes only need like 2. I'm fine waiting. I'm patient.

these be like for home projects or printing something for a work site.
and of course my wife probably print figurines if it isn't horrible to do.

I understand this isn't cost effective at all. it's a luxury convenience for my purpose and one I'm still debating on wether id use it enough.

thank you for taking the time. I appreciate your information. I given up on the idea of printing the large spacer and the cap idea is pretty good.

I been cutting and shaping out wood for 30 years and it be nice to walk away and not spend 30 minutes making shims or making wood plates to mount things (french cleat).

what kind of weight can these objects hold? I get it matters about the print structure.
a solid triangle is going to hold better than a L bracket.

Important to me: if this stuff bends and flexes or if it shatters.
how much weight can they hold realistically.

what do you think about the 45 minutes and 10$ in gas for shims vs printing one?
>>
>>2870413
one field i never went into I'd love to learn. welding and metal cutting and shit.

most i do is drill light aluminium sometimes and even that i find in my hand and feet.

I'm white trash and I work barefoot and in shorts alot, wood, if it penetrates you, will eventually surface rot and be cut out, or is easy to pull out.

metal never leaves and I just didn't want to change my dress that much.
someday though.
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>>2870293
I saved this post as a screenshot for reference on material. your time isn't wasted and will be used long after the thread
thank you
>>
>>2870395
it doesn't seem that complicated. just not sure where to start.
I spent my childhood writing html code before c+ even existed and shit. how I know nothing.

you have any good entry level resources? I can learn fast and find the more intermediate stuff, but I don't feel comfortable with the basics yet. id love to read or watch more, preferably someone who isn't advertising their drop shipped printer or some program that you can otherwise use for free. (photo shop vs Gimp, wish I never learned Photoshop cause learning gimp be easier in the first place over transfering bad knowledge).

without a doubt I'll be doing modeling myself. I have abstract and unique needs you don't find products for.

I remodeled a hotel recently. made templates out of acrylic sheets. it was awesome being able to walk into a room and press it against a line and drill 6 holes we need without measuring or thinking. Everything is consistent.

would it be possible to print something like that? are they accurate enough for a straight line?
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>>2870401
I'm willing to take the time to learn cad.
I'm a bit of a renaissance man, from slaughtering fields to building houses to setting up POS systems and endless things In between from cooking to landscaping to array hard drives (rather than master ABS akave drives)

I am telling you that I am willing to put forth effort a normal person wouldn't and I will know cad, if that's the next step.
learning isn't a problem, I just need direction.

learn cad, fusion 360 and blender.
be handy with gears and heat gun shit.
be patient
it isn't a cheaper solution.

that's been my take away so far. I'm still listening and trying to figure out if it's even worth it for Mt unique uses.

everyone is printing toys. it might just be a toy printer.
>>
>>2870578
>what kind of weight can these objects hold? I get it matters about the print structure.
You'll have to run your own tests. The orientation plays a big factor since fused filament printing is strong in one direction and weak in the other. The size and amount of infill also determine strength.

>Important to me: if this stuff bends and flexes or if it shatters.
A little bit of both, depending on the material. PLA is supposed to be brittle but I've had prints do a lot of flexing before breaking. Also, PLA isn't good for outdoor use or in wet environments. Other materials are better/worse depending on the application. 3D printing is still very hacky and there is a lot of experimentation (but experiments are cheap!).

>what do you think about the 45 minutes and 10$ in gas for shims vs printing one?
A few years I bought a printer for $400 and I've been selling replacement parts (like battery covers) online for a couple years, and I've definitely made back my initial investment. But even if I didn't, just having one has been amazing. I've made all sorts of custom containers and brackets just for around the house. Recently I made a bracket for my monitor to mount a USB drive so I don't have to reach behind my computer to plug it in. Quality of life stuff like that.
>>
Just buy a Bambu Labs printer, download Orca Slicer, only thing you'll have to learn is what the slicer settings do. However with Orca's premade profiles youll barely even need to learn that.
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>>2870606
I looked into the Bambu and I'm afraid of the lack of open source.
I've heard their slicer is trash and everything is proprietary.
>>2870598
youre awesome. the fact they don't do well in the elements is super helpful, I can smash any ideas of them being used to print spouts or diverters for water unless i am very particular on material and would consider it a gimmicky temporary fix.


the quality of life is it's intended use for me. I can buy a skid of shims for the price of a printer but the idea of having a shape or idea in my head and then modeling it and printing it is appealing.


I browsed Amazon a little bit under the assumption the parts are pretty interchangeable. a belt is belt as long as it's the same length and teethed properly.
a gear is a gear and a extruder is a extruder.

there is a 300$ flash forge. I havnt for that far yet to decide on what I would want in the printer.

heated plate.
multiple material ability.
and I hear glass plates are not worth it.

I keep seeing enclosures. how important is an enclosure?

I can just build one from acrylic if it's an absolute.
>>
>>2870606
I want to learn. I'm not opposed to having to learning new skills. I actually enjoy it a lot.
>>
>>2870611
Orca is an open source copy and improvement to Bambu Slicer.
>>2870612
Fact of the matter is basically nothing comes close to Bambu's print quality for the price. Qidi is decent but has its own shortcomings. Learning the slicer settings and what they do will be fun, but getting anything other than Bambu and maybe Qidi is a waste of time and money at this point.
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>>2870578
>I havnt actually used anything 3d printed and got no idea the strength of the objects printed.
Different filaments and different printing styles allow for a huge range of performance. Some prints are brittle like plaster while others are bulletproof. I for example have two of these stands holding up a long piece of wood and metal supports. It never broke and i can put more weight on the board than you usually would and it still stands. This is just PLA.
Note that strength kinda rises exponentially, small parts like figurines have parts where they only have 2-5 walls with no infill. Those parts are very sensitive to layer separation. Like i could hit the part in the image with a hammer from the top and it would still stand while a side hit could break it.

>what do you think about the 45 minutes and 10$ in gas for shims vs printing one?
If the material you are printing can do what you need, sure. Don't forget that your time is also worth something. Imagine waiting for 10 minutes for a small print compared to the long drive. You would be done much sooner and so you know printing is fairly cheap. If we are talking about these discs that go under the nail, you could print more than you could ever need with a single 20$ spool. So if we take into account that time also has worth then yes absolutely.

Also if your wife wants to print some figurines i can recommend Polymaker PolyTerra PLA. It prints nicely and has a nice finish, its a little brittle tho.

>>2870611
>I keep seeing enclosures. how important is an enclosure?
They help keeping the temperature constant. Some filaments will curl otherwise. And even if you print something that does not need it, it will still help a little with quality and it will help with noise proofing and keeping pets/dust away from it. I have my printer in a piece of furniture and i could not live without it.
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>>2870611
And since you are looking for printers let me remind you that even the cheap used ones are very usable and are always user serviceable. Most innovation nowadays is in the slicer.
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>>2870613
I will consider this. I dismissed Bambu outright because of the gimmicky attachments, price, and the fact I thought it was closed software.

Bambu looks like the apple of 3d printers.
>>
youre going to want a caliper, learn fusion 360 and most importantly use the metric system unless you want to deal with fractions instead of mm
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>>2870615
tell me more about slicers please.
>>2870614
could the board support around 100lbs or would the pla break?


I live a very odd life and my time is my time. I only work about 20 hours a week if that and I produce most of everything I consume as opposed to difficult things. I obviously am not building a f150 or producing gas.

heat with wood.
I collect rain water.
I raise food.
I grow food.
I produce around 60% of my energy usage with solar.


I'm here to live, not to work. not to get all philosophical but the time is considered. start a print, go out and put up part of a fence.

start a print and go lay in the hammock for 3 hours.

I work for myself mostly and the 20 hours I work for others is pretty backwoods country shit.
again, I'm framing in sandals half the time. I did a retaining wall in nothing but shorts. I only put on rubber shoes when I do electrical work usually.

I will sleep outside most spring and fall in a hammock.
I'm autistic. please. my time is worthless.
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>>2870614
in love the cabinet idea. so much easier than building a fucking acrylic box.
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>>2870614
ty for the figurine material recommendation too.

I told her I'd be a weirdo autist before we pulled the trigger on 3d printer.
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>>2870624
the most important option in the slicer is the infill. thatll determine the hardness of the print. by default its 15%. for toys it doesnt matter but for cad parts it might. i recommend you use the creality slicer if you get a k1/c or bamboo slicer. Cuda for the rest but honestly you shouldnt bother with outdated 3d printers.
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as I begin to understand what exactly I'm looking for, can someone take a moment to tell me what is wrong with pic attached?

help me understand what is gimmicky advertising and what is absolutely crucial at a glance?
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>>2870629
outdated? what do you mean?
are you implying resin printer or some other form is better than the standard 3d printer or there 3d printers are just a fad?
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>>2870632
well guess tge adventurer has good reviews.
https://versus.com/en/creality-k1-vs-flashforge-adventurer-5m
i mean the printers like the cobra or ender 3 v3 are a pain in the ass and nit worth it.
>>
>>2870624
>tell me more about slicers please.
As you know you take a 3d model and give it the slicer. In the end you get a gcode file which your printer will follow. Its important to know that the gcode is not an actual 3d file and is only a list of instructions like "move 10mm in direction x while extruding filament at 3/mms". The printer does not know what its doing. What i mean with "Most innovation nowadays is in the slicer." is that the basic design of a 3d printer has not changed a lot since the early days but slicers are the main component allowing for more advanced printing. Things like better supports that are strong and easy to remove are something relatively new that slicer gave us. You can take a 10 year old printer and give it gcode made by a new slicer and it will look like the printer suddenly upgraded to the newest generation. Right ow for example slicers are starting to implement brick layers where instead of printing on a plane at a time the printer will layer walls like bricks allowing for stronger prints. There are plenty of advanced printers with stuff like the ability to tilt the hotend or printbed which in theory allows for conical/angled printing but our slicers cannot do that so all these nice features are not supported even if the printer can actually do it physically.

>could the board support around 100lbs
I have never load tested it but it absolutely feels like it would. Strength mostly depends on what filament you use and how much.

Your lifestlye sounds like it could benefit from a "print what you need" machine. I sometimes fantasize about living on a property with a small farm and needing to diy a lot but i wouldn't want to let go of my 3d printer. It just so useful.
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>>2870635
And to add on about how you live. Its very similar to how my grandparents live. I feel like i understand what you mean fairly well. My grandpa for example does a lot of diy electronics and HAM. Having a 3dprinter help him make housings or antennas would help greatly.
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>>2870635
this makes a lot of sense.
I always had trouble figuring out why 3d printers are so simplistic.
it's a hot glue gun with a xy instruction and small motors.

this makes a lot of sense. all development has been software side in the form of new techniques, same materials.

if I understand that correctly.

the more I read and learn the more I'm absolutely fascinated by the idea of printing 3d parts.

not to be fanciful but I had ideas I'd like to print for proof of concepts without paying 3k for a metal mill or something.


I taking in a lot so if you said so and I missed it I'm sorry.

what is the consensus on slicers? like who is considered s tier at the moment?

are slicers another expense or are they free programs?
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>>2870636
you get it.
I can't point my finger on specific situations but the amount of times I wish I could materialize a small weird shape in the world is obnoxious.

even just a J hook for a shotgun would be nice.
if the J is weak a triangle be fine. I'm practical.

if I printed a narrow funnel shape and attached it to the end of a hose or a air line, what kind of psi or water pressure would it take before the layers separating?

I get this is dependent on a shit load of conditions. but will a typical garden hose shatter a narrow head that pressures the water into a point? is that too lofty an expectation?

obvious it's a proof of concept idea and I wouldn't intend to use it more than once or twice.
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>>2870636
f150 has cables where a piece of plastic dry rotted over 20 years.
would of been nice to print the piece. I can do mm measurements and then just design it with a software. slice and print to my understanding.

I ended up buying a pack online instead only the one I needed.
I went 6 months without the door working before I was annoyed enough to fix it. i feel like a 2 day print and maybe a fail or two isn't bad

that's an example?
>>
>>2870638
>if I understand that correctly.
you do. Most developments on the hardware side has been quality of life stuff like filament runout sensors and the like although pellet extruders are starting to be a thing . The software side has been more influential even outside of slicers. 3d printer firmware also improved quality of prints, even on old printers.

>not to be fanciful but I had ideas I'd like to print for proof of concepts without paying 3k for a metal mill or something.
That's kinda one of their main selling points. Making random stuff at little cost.

>I taking in a lot so if you said so and I missed it I'm sorry.
You are talking to an autist. I understand everything.

>what is the consensus on slicers? like who is considered s tier at the moment?
Thats hard to answer as most good slicers are FOSS but you cant go wrong desu. I use orcaslicer which is a distant fork of prusaslicer, which is kinda the og. But cura slicer is also FOSS and is also nice.

>>2870641
>I can't point my finger on specific situations but the amount of times I wish I could materialize a small weird shape in the world is obnoxious.
Again, 3d printers are very good at that sort of stuff.

>will a typical garden hose shatter a narrow head that pressures the water into a point?
Dont think so. People are printing small air engines which handle multiple bars just fine. It depends on a shit load of factors but regular garden hose pressure is nothing.

>>2870646
> I can do mm measurements and then just design it with a software. slice and print to my understanding.
Yes. That's something you could do. Just make sure that your filament can resist the weather and sun if the part is outside for a long time. Although even modern PLA blends start getting resistant against the elements for a couple of years. Still a petroleum based plastic is better in that scenario.
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>>2870634
I'm getting older and I recognize I am having more trouble telling apart guerilla marketing, fake reviews and authentic ones.
I'm concerned over overpaying, overbuying, under buying, or getting outright scammed because I took in bad information that was otherwise marketing or fake.
>>
>>2870648
I love the way you write.
I love your information.
can I ask your opinion on
>>2870630
>>
I got a 12 yr old boy who would absolutely lose his shit for 3 days then not give a shit forever too if I got a 3d printer. lol.
>>
>>2870648
is it still standard to put files onto a card and put a card in the 3d printer, or have they closed that gap with the computer directly communicating via USB or something?

will SD cards be needed?
>>
>>2870649
Try a used printer for around 100$. Again, these things are very usable and have been battle tested. Some of them even come with expensive mods like high quality cooling or even SOC's but still are very cheap. Often the materials themselves cost more than the listing.

>>2870650
>can I ask your opinion on
>>>2870630
If i am honest i dislike these sort of 'enterprise' style printers. I am a bigger fan of open source printers or their chinese clones. In some cases customer support will tell tell you that changing a simple pulley is impossible and you need a new printer. Of course you can repair it but i think you see in what direction this is going.
I am a firm believer in FOSS. So if i have the choice between a proprietary design an a modable open source one i would go for the second option.

>>2870654
depends. My printer was one where you had to use sd cards and its stupid screen to print. Now modded it in a way where i can control it via Ethernet and all the other benefits that klipper provides.
>>
>>2870657
To further push my point about used modded printers here is one beating most if not all proprietary ones https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7lJmkTSoWLc
Of course the quality of the benchy is bad but in a speed benchy only the speed matters.
>>
>>2870657
so a 200$ crealty or creality or whatever they are called there all the reddits swear will kill your family are preferred?

where would you recommend I look to buy one? I'm in butt fuck nowhere. craigslist isn't worth the trip unless it's 50%+ off the price of them forcing a Amazon driver to find me.

can you better elaborate on Foss?
>>
>>2870658
Jesus Christ.
>>
>>2870578
Holy reddit.
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>>2870658
I see the additional cooking. something I fundamentally don't understand.

you put it in a box to stay hot, you heat the extruder to melt plastic. but why are we running cooling? for what? what is being cooled?
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>>2870665
your body probably reflects your disgust for strength the way your mind disregards a thirst for knowledge.

sit down boy.
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>>2870660
>so a 200$ crealty or creality or whatever they are called there all the reddits swear will kill your family are preferred?
Not necessarily a creality one but more like a ender 3 or i3 styled one. They are all at lest decent from my experience. Although a proprietary one will probably give you better out of the box results those older ones can be modded to surpass the closed source ones. And modding is very fun and from your description i think you would enjoy it.
Also have a smoke detector in or around its enclosure and dont print with nobody on the premise. This is general advice regardless of printer and while critical failure are rare you should try preventing the worst.

>where would you recommend I look to buy one?
I honestly dont know. In my country shpping used printers is very common so distance is not an issue.

>can you better elaborate on Foss?
Its mostly present in the software world but it basically means access to source code/blue prints for free and for everyone. This encourages innovation and is what prusa is doing alough they are also doing some scummy shit nowadays.
>>2870666
>but why are we running cooling? for what? what is being cooled?
The plastic that gets extruded has to be firm enough to hold a new layer on top of it. If its too soft the part overheats and gets melty. The general part still should be kept at the same temperature to prevent warping, thus the enclosure.
>>
>>2870668
Go back and fuck off.
>>
>>2870668
You forgot to set yourself a name.
>>
>>2870670
post your jelly rolls tub thumper.
>>2870680
I'm a old fag. a original fag. pre /b/. I still hold a bias against tags.
>>
>>2870669
you've been awesome. I really appreciate you.

so don't print in the same room as my office? would it be ok down in a basement or something?

is this because of plastic gassing?

I see people printing around their computers in most videos. are they just being careless?

the fire alarm is a good idea.
>>
>>2870669
what country if you don't mind me asking?

I could probably get a used one shipped, arnt there risks of it being in low quality or condition? used then sold?
I'm american and not to get political, most my country is con artists and thieves.
>>
>>2870686
Lots of filaments make gasses but PLA is the safest one of all. It makes the smallest amount and also the most harmless gas. Most people have no issues with being around one for a long period of time so as long there is some airflow in the room it should be fine. Other plastics can actually be harmful so do some research and consider a filter or ventilation. And you should know if you have a all metal hotend. Bowden tubes start releasing a neurotoxin if heated too much but an all metal heatbreak will keep such temperatures away from the tube. But you will never need it if you just print at PLA temperatures or something.

>>2870688
>arnt there risks of it being in low quality or condition
Thats why you read the listing and ask questions. Also i dont see how outside of consumables a printer can degrade in quality unless it runs absolutely over its limits for thousands of hours, although that is exactly what i do and my printer still runs fine.

>what country if you don't mind me asking?
Germany. We have something called "Kleinanzeigen" which is basically ebay but exclusively on a small scale and nearly always for regular people and not cooperation's. I doubt that most will ship to the USA but asking wont hurt right? Even if shipping is like 90$, if a printer costs 40$ it might be worth it depending on its mods and model. Also i have been scammed on ebay only once and never on kleinanzeigen. Those sites work fabulously here.
>>
>>2870689
To add.
Yes you can put it in the basement or wherever else you want. Just make sure that if needed there is ventilation and that you hear the fire alarm. I dont think that an actual fire will break out that but just that some filament gets stuck to the hotend and sizzles a but but again you protecting against a housefire is a good idea. My printer even has a messed up power supply but it still works all this time and i feel safe sleeping due to the fire alarm.
>>
I got an elegoo and once I leveled the bed properly I've been printing pew parts, random stuff, rc stuff, and stuff to teach kids. Also have seen used enders on ebay for cheap but if you are slow and you don't know even the basics it might be hard to get setup. They aren't really that finicky unless you have a crap one but they do need to be leveled and setup properly.
>>
>>2870693
some of the enders I am looking at auto level.

I am currently in freecad learning from mangojelly when I'm not working on physical things.

is it relatively simple to go from freecad, to slicer to printer?
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>>2870698
forgot pic.
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>>2870698
Most stuff auto levels but there are still some little tricks. Yes if you get a printer with ethernet you can print straight from slicer program. I needed a simple bracket last night and designed and printed it within 20 minutes. If it only has USB you'll have to save to a stick and move to it. Still easy but I have mine in garage so it would be annoying
>>
>>2870709
>If it only has USB you'll have to save to a stick and move to it
No. I have such a printer and i can still do stuff via ethernet. Most cheaper printers have a regular dumb 3d printer mainboad while others have a soc. If you want to do stuff like remote control or cool klipper shit you have the mainboad set as a slave and another computer as the master. Thats useful if you have a farm as you can plug 500 dumb printers into a server and suddenly they are all smart. These fancy mainboards with an SOC do this stuff hidden on the board so you dont have mess with it.
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>>2870701
you go on and buy that piece of shit.
heres a video i made about the ender 3.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=i8BTHNKVAFc
>>
>>2870718
Oh that's interesting yeah I kind of assumed you could finagle a way for that but didn't know for sure.
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>>2870701
I've heard enders can kinda be fun because they are OK but you need to keep upgrading and fixing shit like >>2870739 pointed out. I did a bunch of research and just went with the regular elegoo 4. Haven't needed to fix anything yet and have had it printing for several days straight already (not that long compared to vets) but for the price I think its awesome. I did get some silicone standoff things to replace the springs. I think the best tip is to make sure everything is tight, and to lower the bedplate a little bit more so the adjustment screws are tight, and then just change your z height. When I had the bedplate basically perfect for z height it would loosen up a tiny bit after a few days of printing. Going tighter and with silicone has fixed that.
>>
>2024
>people still consider bed slingers
Grim. If you have no clue, just get a P1S. That's literally what the whole "Just get a Bambu" meme is about.
>>
>>2870745
Its good but its $550... like someone else said you are telling him to get the apple of 3d printers. They arent really fixable or customizable. Yes they do work just fine but I got mine for $180 shipped and like I mentioned in other post I have already printed out a few full size, rhymes with buns. So I am in it for less than $300 even with like 13kg of filament. I have a family though I can't afford to be throwing $600+ on a printer, especially my first one while learning it but i guess if you have no one to take care of and just want something that works go for it. Their AMS looks really cool too and it comes enclosed.
>>
>>2870745
sit down faggot >>2870658
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>>2870750
he started out mentioning the adventurer which is ok i guess. anything below that is not worth the time cause building is ass and so is fixing it. its like getting a used car from 2014 vs one from 2019. the bamboo is a new car.
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>>2870753
Go ahead and see what the result look like.

>>2870750
So your time is worthless and you got plenty to fiddle around. That's fine and all but far from average folks that still gotta get into cad.
>the apple of 3d printers
That would be the X1C and the whole point of being unable to modify it is that it doesn't need modification to begin with. If you really need more, we'd be talking Voron already, but that's very far from anything anyone should recommend to a beginner.
Last but not least spare us your sob story, what do you know what others here go through? It's some Facebook tier attention seeking at best.
>>
>>2870766
the apple of 3d printers is the orange one forgot the name. overpriced, underpowered but wont break.
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>>2870766
Wtf is my sob story? Lmao. I'm saying besides bed leveling I haven't had to do anything and you are telling the guy to just buy something that costs 3-4x without explaining anything. My time isn't worthless I am just mechanically inclined and I have my kids learning cad. We are working on robotics and again I do smithing. Fucking retard lol. I bet you don't even work on cars, building, or even design your own shit. I didn't say Bambu was bad at all, yet you come out like a gay little fanboy. You run out of filament printing butt plugs or something?
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>>2870775
man fuck off you came to this thread asking for advice.
I threw my ender 3 after soldering the stupid wires for the bed leveling that came off into the trash. you like tightening the z axis switch and redoing the print and making sure the extruder doesnt get stuck and having to syart all over again? you want to unclug the nozzle with the torque thing. pig headed idiot.
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>>2870780
I did not. I am not OP. Can you not read or something?
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>>2870769
>forgot his name
Sure, bud.
>>
>>2870775
>I bet you don't even work on cars, building, or even design your own shit
Do you? Again you're assuming on other people by nothing else but your barely suppressed superiority complex.
>inb4 i don't have a superiority complex
>>
>>2870646
>I ended up buying a pack online instead only the one I needed.
>I went 6 months without the door working before I was annoyed enough to fix it. i feel like a 2 day print and maybe a fail or two isn't bad
>that's an example?

I know exactly the part you are talking about. The reason it broke in the first place is because it is plastic. The aluminum ones should last a lifetime. This is an area where 3d printing one would have kicked the problem down the road a bit, but you would have ended up back in the same place again. The aluminum ends should last the rest of the vehicles lifetime.
>>
>>2870807
Yep have rebuilt several cars, favorite one was a 240z. Built my garage gym, deck, installed my own solar system and built 15kwh battery, work on neighbors cars tooand also weld. Weird thing though, you misread and thought I was OP but kept going and showing yourself to be a fag. What exactly are ya doing here bud?
>>
>>2870618
I would consider Prusa the apple of 3D printers these days. IE decent, and "easy" to use, but if you actually know jack shit you wouldn't get one.
>>
>>2870225
depending on what your budget is and use case I would recommend something from forms labs they have a refurbished form labs 3 for like $1700 which is the cheapest they have but is completely worth it ease of use lack of failed prints and multi material ability you can print serious parts carbon fiber, casting wax, silicone you name it
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I woke up and read through all of these.
I designed a simple dick in freecad and it's so fucking stupid easy to use in lost respect for anyone who does it as a job.
I obviously don't know all the tips and tricks.

someone said the auto levelers still need leveling. I know the paper trick where you adjust it with paper.

I appreciate everyone's suggestions and I'll be moving forward and probably deciding on a printer in the next week or two as I learn more cad.


thank you all for the time and effort put forward.


there are worse people you could have used it on and I will be an amalgamation of the collective information.


you all been great.
>>
>>2870739
I can't tell if this is sincere for a mock post to let me know it's a bad idea.
I'm autistic brother.

Any ender anything i expect to be fucking around with and fine tuning.
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>>2870972
Not him but I don't see the point in tinkering with printers just to get them to half the quality a Bambu printer can get. By the time you get it you'll have spent the cost of the printer itself in addons and wasted a few kilos of plastic, and it still wont hold a candle to even an A1 Mini's quality.
Back in the day you did that because the quality you arrived at print wise was actually good for the time.
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>>2870945
id love something like that but it be like buying a hummer when I worked half a mile instead of a bike.

it be super cool, but 1700$ is better spent on tools or materials for my homestead and it would exceed anything I'd ever use regularly.
it's not out of the realm of possibility. pic attached. I'm not like broke. that's just too much for a printer.

pic attached is my kit I throw in the back of my truck when I'm either working out on stuff on My property or doing a job off premise for someone else.
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>>2870974
ok now pick attached is my kit.
clever, handy, capable, not smart. there's a difference.
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>>2870780
yes. I'd like to do all those things so if the printer is useful even with all those problems I know to really invest in a good one.
use once, use twice, use thrice, buy nice.

there is an alternative to your scenario where I might buy an overpriced appliance I never use and it sits taking up space and rotting for 2 years before I give it away.

I do appreciate your posts but shit slinging isnt helping me with information. it's muddying the real information I'm finding valuable.
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>>2870973
learning and problem solving are the valuable skills you develop by not just buying the best plug and play.
I repair my own tools and I'd like to be able to repair the bambu when it does fail.

this is my opinion. I lean towards a hard education over a comforted ignorance. if I bought a Bambu I'd end up disassembling it once or twice just from burning curiosity.


this isn't a judgement call on people who don't like to tinker. I get it. people are busy sometimes with more important things. I'm not a doctor.
>>
>>2870983
You can repair a Bambu when it breaks, by messaging support and getting sent replacement parts. Kinda like when your breaks go out you replace them with brakes...
You can do what you like, my man, but you're wasting your own valuable time not getting something plug and play. I spent the better part of a year tuning my first Creality printer in 2016, at times it was absolutely infuriating.
Its not worth the tuning.
>>
>>2870987
I appreciate your insight.

I used a tool brand for years. you could email support and they would ship the part needed.

they were sold. you can't get those proprietary parts anymore.
I had to completely retool because of the availability of after market parts and now I use a brand that has a lifetime of endless interchangeable, or atleast till we go to war with China.

my experience with closed ecosystems has always been negative. I do appreciate your thoughts and opinions.
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>>2871006
Bambu isn't going anywhere, I can promise you that. They've practically completely taken over the 3D printing industry in less than half the time any other major printing brand has even been around.
Like I said, do what you please, but you're wasting your own time and money not going buy once cry once.
>>
>>2870987
take the time to explain to me the qualities of a Bambu printer that you like so that I can understand your perspective on useful features and compare it to what I currently know and have learned.
add to me. what about Bambu printers, aside from "just working" do you enjoy?
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>>2871007
I don't doubt that. apple is proprietary too. I saw it born and I don't think I'll see it die in my lifetime.
but the way they can just turn off your old devices. or limit their functions.

I imagine Bambu coming out with a special cord that costs 250$.
the 250$ plastic single attachment comes to mind as a "holy shit" price vs quality.

we disagree, but you know more about it obviously having done it. I know more about how I think and operate.
id like to know things you want to say about 3d printing and I'll use the information accordingly.

material, the bambus pros and cons, why you seem to be the only one there recommends close to plug and play
I am curious. genuinely.
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pic attach feels obnoxious, but I'm willing to listen to why I'm wrong.
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>>2870987
I do my own brakes and it's usually Chinese after market...
Ford OEM is fucking obnoxious and the truck is 2004. it doesn't deserve domestic parts.
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if anyone doesn't mind answering.
I use freecad, that's what I'm learning, I'll probably play with blender once freecad is engrained.
do you have a recommended slicer?
does it matter what slicer?
is it printer dependent?

so could I use freecad->prusaslicer-> any 3d printer?


my dog being slutty attached.
>>
Not even sure if it's just some guys trolling, but boy is this some dumb thread.
>>
>>2871017
then go somewhere smarter.
>>
>>2871022
Haha, so funny.
>>
why are you here?
>>
>>2870824
I didn't need a lifetime. I needed like 4 or 5 years lol.
>>
>>2871008
>>2871009
>self calibration (auto leveling, vibration compensation, noise cancelling) before every print
>overall print quality vastl;y superior to anything else at their price point
>good CS
>wireless printing from Orca and the makerworld app
>hassle free and semi-frequent firmware updates
>best multicolor/multi material solution on the market
>ability to earn points for gift cards usable on printers/filament through makerworld
>replacement parts are significantly cheaper, than youd expect
>lack of need to tune the printer means less wasted filament and time
>slicers preset profiles are basically flawless
Thats what I can come up with off the top of my head. Ive worled with multi creality printers, QIDI, Sovol, and a Voron build. Bambu reigns supreme for now and the foreseeable future. The entire point of printers advancement has been to make it so you don't have to spend a year tuning something.
Also Sovol is fucking garbage, never buy a Sovol.
>>
>>2870583
Depends, what is a straight line to you.

To a carpenter it could mean a 1/2” drop within 3 feet is still a very straight line

To a mechanic anything resembling a straight line is damn perfect straight line

To a machinist…. What temperature do you want to measure that straight line in… microns or tenths?

With the way 3d printers work (layered lines of plastic) you will not get machinist straight lines…. It will not make anything that can pass an inspection table or a test indicator reading

However if you’re a soccer mom in Nebraska the printer can make perfect straight lines!!!

As far as slicers go, you can get away with slicing automatically.

Just takes a little bit to learn M code and how to read the gcode to find out where to put m00s etc
>>
>>2871276
so if I printed a straight ruler would it pass a bubble level?
I assume I can sand and shape objects someway by cutting afterwards.
>>2871262
I appreciate your insight.
I guess the goal is for it to be as standard as a normal paper printer and I could see how Bambu might be considered the first "market ready" 3d printer.

thank you for taking the time.
>>
>>2871300
If you wanna compare it to a printer buying anything other than a plug and play option would be like buying a typewriter.
>>
>>2871300
the k1 is not bad. the extruder got stuck a few times and i had to replace the screen once.
nothing compared to the level of baby sitting you have to do with bed slingers though. You cant go to the store and come back with a print with a bed slinger if the piece takes hours. you can avoid the extruder getting stock also by lining up the filament right and finding quality filament which means buying brand filament or finding a good vendor.
>>
>>2871305
I still got a typewriter. I'm on my 5th or so printer.

I get that they are very user friendly and have less problems. but they are also about twice the price of some of the other printers I've seen.

I'm printing parts you probably won't see. I'm not printing anime art pieces or crazy stuff. I saw some test prints people did of like detailed rockets and stuff. ain't me. id be printing a bracket to hold wires up.
a caseing for uniquely shaped ítems, brackets.

I got a crock pot for 6$ cause it had no handle. I wonder if I could of printed a handle and used food safe washers and screws. I have fixed it by using a old pot lid handle and attaching that. but I wonder if I could of printed the upper part of the handle to make it more ergonomical.

you don't think it will be over buying?

this is me genuinely asking and thanking you for your time.

>>2871341
so your print is 20% done and the extruder gets stuck. what's the procedure? restart? does it start back from the instructions it originally had( resume print)?

while I got you. can I use and slicer on any printer?
the printer reads a specific file, not every single printer is proprietary?

freecad->prusaslicer->Bambu printer?
or do you have to use a Bambu slicer?

I would think cause it's just coordinate instructions on a x,y,z that any printer can read any slicer as long as files are compatible?

I appreciate you.
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6$ and brand new. broken handle was all
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>>2871342
depends on how badly its stuck. if its kind if stuck you just heat it and put a the torque screw on the filament hole. if its really stuck then you have to unscrew the back of the head and open out and take it out the filament piece manually and screw it back in. pic related i found it on google. annyways yeah just make sure the filament is being fed up at a 90 degree angke. that means you set the spool facing right not left. as far as the slicer i just use the creality slicer. theres cura but im not sure if it can send the file wirelessly. as far as the program for cad just save it as an obj or stl.
>>
>>2871346
missed the pic
>>
Went to go quickly print a new knob for my kitchen aid mixer with my bambu.

Guess what? Filiment has to DRY FOR 8 GODAM HOURS before you can do anything
>>
>>2871350
>bambu
>actually dries his filament
lmao
>>
>>2871350
there is shit quality filament too though. filament that doesnt have a consistent diameter or is a wrong mix of cheap brittle plastic will get stuck on the extruder.
>>
>>2871350
my understanding is you store it under very low humidity and it's standard for not printers. it's like a best practices mind of thing.


I understand that correctly?
>>
>>2871355
got ya
>>2871346

is this something as simple as removing the nozzle and pushing a needle through, or are we heating and melting it out? like a vice and torch if it's really stuck.

can you resume a print that stopped or do you need to restart (with a generic 3d printer I understand high end ones have nicer features).
>>
>>2871370
if the filanent gets stuck on the extruder youll probably have to start over because missing just a single layer will screw up the print. youd want to pull out the tube, gi to the setting heat up the nozzle and push the stuck filamemt with one of the torques that the 3d printer came with. It doesnt happen often though. again unless its a bed slinger. dont know about the ender v3 but the original one didnt have the extruder near the nozzle unless you got an upgrade kit. its a shitty quality wheel thatd tend to get loose and stuff. the tube also comes often times as it pushes the filament because its connected by the shitty gummy shits
>>
>>2871383
thanks man. I appreciate it.
>>
>>2870632
Anon is telling lies on the Internet. Disregard everything in that post.
>>
>>2871300
>I could see how Bambu might be considered the first "market ready" 3d printer.
The First "market ready" 3D printers were made by StrataSys in the early 90s. The first personal consumer printers for sale were Prusa kits. Bambu machines don't offer groundbreaking features. They offer generally good capabilities in a shiny package at a good price point, especially compared to the market when they came out. They target what's sometimes called the "prosumer" price point (significantly more expensive than low-end stuff, but a lot cheaper than commercial/industrial machines, and produce reliably good results out of the box with minimal fuss). For a long time, Prusa was the only printer manufacturer to target that area, and Bambu machines were significantly faster and cheaper.
>>
>>2871300
Depends on pass, if it’s a side wall you’re going to see the peaks of each layer hold the level up.

If that’s a fail to you then it would fail.

The question is, will your designs care about surface finish?

3d printers do great parts where surface finish doesn’t matter and the part doesn’t care about tensile strength or compressive strength since the part is 20% infill only and is held together by the strength of hundreds of layers of 0.15mm wide bits of PLA

A lot of these posts are guys too deep into 3d printing and can’t really see the drawbacks.

I’ve been printing since 2019…. So a lot of these but you’re wrong Sieg the Soviet is $80 and comes with an unbranded psi!!!! It’s a deal sieggggg

Are dudes who got a 3d printer on their birthday and are making something for the first times in their life
>>
>>2871383
99% of printers that are good have fila-runout sensors and pause and restart the print after a successful unload

You wouldn’t know that because you’re running an ender 3

“Cars don’t have sunroofs and leather seats or v12 engines Sieg is lying!!!! My Kia has cloth seats and a 3 cylinder engine and no radio”
>>
>>2871403
I don't internalize information people arnt willing to defend or define. don't worry.
>>2871408
this makes a lot of sense, I'm probably not a prosumer when it comes to printing.
>>2871433
this information explains a lot of the expectations of the finish.
it would work for my purposes for sure, it can be sanded if say for instance there was too tight a fit on a bracket right?
this is assuming I can 100% infill and it's a 100% infill and I'm not sanding into the inner hollow.
>>2871436
it's ironic you say this cause I often use car windows as a "you don't have a choice in choice".
I want manual windows. they just don't exist anymore.

this being said, after everything here so you have a printer you might recommend knowing I'm not a prosumer but probably a step below if I end up using it often.
>>
If you're really as handy as you say and insist on not getting a plug and play option then quit being a bitch and build a Voron. You'll learn real quick why people go plug and play these days.
>>
>>2871602
handy doesn't imply I enjoy headaches or that I'm a genius or anything. it implies I have the practical knowledge to trouble shoot or diagnose a problem and usually the tools to fix it, not that I want problems.

if a printer is 300$ and another is 800, but the only problem I will experience with the 300 is changing belts, gears, and unclogging it once every month, but aside from that, it would perform the same way as the 800$ one. I would simply use the cheaper one because it's not an everyday tool for me.


when I say avoid the plug and play, I don't care about it plugging in and being usable right out the gate. I care about plug and play cause often they are harder to service and find parts for.

you can play Mario on one of those plug and play RYG all in 1 thousand game controllers. or you can get a Nintendo and an original cart.
when the RYG dies, it's over. when the cart dies, you still have the system and can replace the cart.

there is a forbidden third golden option called emulation but it doesn't exist for this example.
>>
>>2871655
those are not the two options. the two options is grt a midgrade 3d printer thats $500 or dont get anything.
>>
>>2871655
the dude telling you to just get an bambu a1 is on the money

no ender 3 is going to print at the quality of a p1s or even an a1/mini

bambu also has all the parts and guides on how to replace them
>>
>>2871668
those aren't the only two options. I'm pretty sure there is everything from 100$ chunk erector sets to 3000$ carbon fiber printers.

I'm pretty sure there are more options than just Bambu. it's not like I'm not considering it, I simply asked the Bambu boys to tell me why it isn't overbuying for some brackets, shims and wire hangs?

if anyone does construction, I'm looking for a rough in printer, not a punch out finish work.

Bambu is appealing but not if something half the price can do the same job.

I'm not shitting on Bambu. but everyone keeps comparing the Bambu to the ender 3. my understanding is there is all kinds. elegoo, prusa, Bambu, creality and all kinds of Chinese knock offs.

>>2871670
why is Bambu not overbuying for some brackets, spacers and wire guide and hangs?
genuinely asking. I get ender sucks, but why not the flash forge if it's just gonna be printing here and there and I'm not a hobbyist?
genuinely, why is Bambu not overbuying for my intended use?
>>
>>2871670
>>2871668
is there a Bambu model you all recommend? the A1?

I genuinely will consider and look into it
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the website feels so shady. it looks like you get the ams at the 300 price, but you scroll down and it's a different option at 450.
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below that is like 500$ in upsells.
feels shady.
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>>2871469
>I'm probably not a prosumer when it comes to printing.
"Prosumer" is a description of a market niche, not a kind of person. Consider DeWalt's power tool niche. It's aimed at higher-end DIYers (consumers) and professionals (pros) who need tools for general use (not dedicated industrial work). They're more expensive and more capable than Harbor Freight tools (bargain brand of the week) or Ryobi (Creality), but not made for the sort of job that a Dynabrade tool is (Stratasys). Brand comparisons are loose here.

A "prosumer" 3D printer has a variety of helpful features that give it a minimal-fuss, reliable printing experience. A Bambu or Prusa machine is more expensive than a Creality machine, but you get more for it, and shouldn't need to fiddle with it to get it printing well. Cheaper machines often need some degree of tuning, and may not come with reliable preset printing profiles.

>to 3000$ carbon fiber printers
They go a lot higher than that. Check out the Formlabs store for a modest intro to non-consumer pricing.

>I simply asked the Bambu boys to tell me why it isn't overbuying for some brackets, shims and wire hangs?
It's a ready-to-go option that works well at a decent price. You could spend a lot of time and effort making something similar for a little cheaper, but that costs a lot of time and effort. There's a tradeoff between cost, capabilities, and convenience, and Bambu had a standout combination when it emerged. Less so now, but they're still pretty good.

>>2871678
Bambu's offerings are pretty similar in design philosophy, so the one to get depends on what sort of printing you'll be doing. Build volume? Enclosure? Check the features of the different printers. The A1 is relatively small and not enclosed, so it's for smallish prints in materials that don't warp much (e.g. PLA and PETG). Keep in mind that the Bambu ecosystem spies on you.

>feels shady.
It's pretty normal. Printers need consumables to work. Print sheets are consumables.
>>
Bambu = Apple
??? = Linux

I just want something that isn't locked down.
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>>2871709
>???
RepRap. Like Linux, the project has diverged into several forks, including Prusa and Voron.

>I just want something that isn't locked down.
Take your pick of RepRap printers.
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>>2870226
Ever heard of polystyrene?
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>>2871724
only in the form of like containers and foam.
>>2871705
thank you for taking the time for me.
I keep looking at 2 printers
the Bambu A1 and the sovol sv06

can I ask any comments or opinions? I understand you lean heavily towards the Bambu but what would you say about the sovol? I have read it can be finicky at setup and is a bare bones system. the only thing I dislike is it doesn't have an empty indicator and have read it's very difficult to clean out when clogged.

>>2871709
my understanding is sovol is almost a Linux. open source top to bottom? Im here to learn. I could be wrong.
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I wanted to show anyone who bothered to take the time that I am serious and not wasting your knowledge.

I didn't even know what cad was a few days ago. I'm trying and learning.

I created a custom object and shape that doesn't exist as evidence of me learning.

it's babies first 3d model and I am baby
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>>2870987
You're comparing a 2016 printer to now? You the guy getting mad at people for not wanting to spend like $700 on their first printer? Even the chinkiest printers now are better than those from 2016
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>>2870630
5M is fine for where it sits. Its a little more tinkering friendly than other OEM sheet steel style printers, has a 3D printable frame for mounting panels in to make it enclosed. I wish I purchased one of the Qidi printers in pic related instead, tho, just so I didn't have to deal with printing the enclosure and cutting acrylic panels.
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>>2871795
Not mad at all, just trying to save this dude the trouble of spending a year tuning some PoS to get half the quality of an A1 Mini.
I said basically nothing short of a K1, QIDI, or Bambu is decent by today's standards. No one should even be considering an Ender 3.
English must not be your first language, Ive been saying this entire time that shit isn't comparable.
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>>2871469
I like printers in the $1000 range.

Bambu labs carbon and the prusa mk4… I’m more of a prusa guy because I like servicing the machines myself but do realize that I’m giving up a ton of features and reliability, voron is nice linear rails + the 100% do it yourself


Below $1000, you’re giving up a lot

Mainly in work envelope prusa mini and the Bambu labs mini you’ll
Be happy for a month or two but then wish you bought a bigger printer

My first “nice” printer was a prusa mini+ when they first came out and that led me to sell all my Creality printers

Stay away from: dremel, Creality, Polaroid, AnyCubic, anything Chinese that’s not a bambulabs

Honestly, not being a dick here if you don’t have $1000 for a Bambu labs flagship…. Just save up another two weeks and buy the good one
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>>2871677
Okay maybe I can explain this better for you:
2015/2016 : (this is where I entered the 3d printing game) mono price mini select and the mono price 3 legged one came out. Great deals at the time. Before this it was piece together a lot from Home Depot and pay-it-forward prusa Mendel hack jobs

2018 first $250 “good printer” hits the market… the ender 3

2019-2021 - Chinese brands copy ender 3 with attempted add on features… Chinese brands that built a name for them selves on resin printers started selling low tier Creality competitors.. elgoo of the mars fame, AnyCubic with their proton, I think even that ice whatever brand came out with one and even sunlu came out with an ender clone… basically anything that’s for sale on the sales floor of a microcenter is a ender clone of some sort this entire range makes up “low end” printers.

2022 - voron releases the core xy community driven and designed linear rail printer ~$2300 cheaper if you had access to a machine shop

2023 : China releases the voron killer, prusa killer upsets the market on their head

2024: Bambu is promising something end of year.

You’re looking at all these china brands like tarantula going like “they have to offer something Bambu doesn’t “

But the market really is … ender 3 or ender 3 clone or dervitative, prusa, voron or Bambu

Voron -expert level if you’re a machinist or engineer this is you all the way

Prusa - if you’re a carpenter and can throw ikea furniture together without help this is you.

Bambu labs - if you need an app like “handyman” or pay ikea or Walmart for assembly when you buy furniture this is for you


If a trip to goodwill is considered “furniture shopping “ for you buy a ender 3 used for like $12

Enders and their clones are so out dated people are just starting to cannablize them for their aluminum extrusions to make other machines or enclosures on the cheap now
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>>2871992
I will read through the rest of all of this soon but I wanted to let you know I never bought furniture and I actually am technically a carpenter.
every piece of furniture is a hand em down,find, free or mad.

the idea someone would pay to have Ikea furniture assembled is offensive.
>>
>>2872008
made*
>>
>schizo found the namefag
What a perfect match for a thread.
>>
>>2871751
>I understand you lean heavily towards the Bambu
Not so much. I got a Prusa i3 well before Bambu started selling printers, currently with thousands of print hours on it and no maintenance issues. I installed a high-flow hotend (60W non-ceramic heater), improved the print fan setup, and upgraded it to a MK3.5, so it's about as fast as a Bambu for a given level of quality despite being an older printer. If I had to make the choice today, I'd go with a MK4 over a Carbon. The price is a non-issue to me, while user-serviceability, modifiability, long-term upgrades, and support are important to me. Bambu's clear interest in managing users' data (leading to systems set up in a way that has led to things like this https://all3dp.com/4/bambu-lab-cloud-error-causes-prints-to-start-unprompted-users-printers-damaged/) is a deal breaker to me.

But Bambu machines are by all accounts generally excellent printers. There are reasons why they've quickly risen to a prominent position in a highly competitive market. The SV06 is a budget Prusa clone that cheaps out less than a lot of others, and the general impression seems to be that it can produce good results with modest tuning. But the A1 is a lot faster, and should do most things with less fuss. However, there is an area where the SV06 has an advantage: It uses standard MK8 nozzles, which lets you use specialty nozzles like CHT for high flow or tungsten carbide for carbon fiber. The stock Bambu nozzles are permanently fixed in the hotend assembly, and only come in stainless and hardened steel. These are fine, but they will wear out if you print a lot of abrasives. You'd need to get a third-party replacement if you want to use alternative nozzles on it. The Bambu plays nice out of the box with the AMU for multi-color printing, so that's a point if you're interested in that.

Whichever you get, make sure that you have suitable print sheets for all the materials you want to print with (some may need an enclosure too).
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>>2872044
when I start hearing parts it feels overwhelming. I don't understand all the parts yet and why upgrade what and why this sucks over that.
I appreciate your honest feedback.

I don't think I'm going to rush anything and I'm going to take this slow.
can you elaborate on what you mean >>suitable print sheets
>>2871987
I get what your saying. if I printed something once a month you don't think it be overbuying? I understand if you consider the 1k model base level and that's cool if you do. I assumed they were coming down in price and I don't feel it's worth much more to me than 400-500$. like I said. you start hitting 1k I could just buy stuff I'd print in my life most likely and live without printing my objects in my head and just dying with them selfishly.

I only started looking at a 3d printer cause I thought they came down in price to be a reasonable 300$ entry.
>>2871992
I really appreciate this breakdown. the 3d printing works is starting to make more sense. just not sure I'm being evaluated properly for my use. if I am and most printers are gonna run 1000$+. 3d printer isnt for me yet. if I can find a ender 3 for 12$, that might be the level in at.

I feel like if I designed a bracket and it failed and I had to redesign it, I'd probably just make it from wood or something cause it be faster than going back into cad and redesigning the print.

what I'm getting at is, 3d printer, to me, should be alot like paper and 2d printing. I should be able to use it when I need it and it's probably gonna sit otherwise. I won't be actively spending days and weeks designing in cad. I got animals to raise and if the printer becomes overpriced and alot of trouble, it just isn't where I want it to be as a consumer. it's it's cheap and alot of trouble, I honestly expect that and if might be fun to fuck around with when I'm too tired to dig fence posts.
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>>2871901
some guy mentioned sticking his in a cabinet. I use to grow weed in a cabinet. sounds like a good idea honestly. then have the smoke detectors inside the cabinet.
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>>2872044
>recommending Sovol ever
The SV06 is absolute trash. About 4 different hardware issues that make the bed skewed with almost no chance of properly leveling it.
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>>2872128
>I don't understand all the parts yet and why upgrade what and why this sucks over that.
The print head of a 3D printer (the thing that moves around and builds up the print) takes filament, heats it up, and extrudes it through a precisely-moving nozzle. The hotend is the part of that which is heated to melt the plastic. More heating power here can (under certain conditions) lead to faster printing, while a longer melt zone applies that heating power more effectively to melting the plastic as it passes through.

Bambu machines use a nominally 48W ceramic heater. Resistors generally produce less heating power as they heat up and their electrical resistance increases, but this is especially pronounced in ceramic heaters. The Bambu heater delivers about half that at polycarbonate printing temperatures, where the higher temperature causes more heat than usual to be lost to the environment. The relatively long melt zone of the Bambu hotend applies the remaining heat rather efficiently, but the melt capacity of the hotend does represent a bottleneck on its printing speed. In contrast, a non-ceramic heater might lose 10% of its power output at that temperature, so my hotend has a bit over twice the heating power of a Bambu at polycarbonate temperatures, meaning that it can maintain a higher flow of plastic (as would be typical of lower temperature materials) despite the higher temperature. 54W effective output is even somewhat more than the nominally 115W Rapido hotend at that temperature.
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>>2872272
>>2872128
All that supposes that you're pushing the printer's ability to melt plastic, which for smaller nozzle sizes means that the printer's mechanics need to be good to be able to produce good results at high speeds. Prusas have good mechanics, and with the modern input-shaping controls are competitive with Bambu machines (which also have good mechanics and input shaping), so it was beneficial to me to upgrade the hotend from the stock E3D v6. It's a reliable and versatile hotend, but its melt capacity is limited compared to newer options made to take advantage of faster, more modern printers. Compared to the stock hotend, the high flow one I installed has 50% more heating power and a significantly longer melt zone to apply that heat to a faster-moving filament.

That extra melted plastic takes longer to soldify with the stock fan, which can negatively impact print quality as molten plastic is laid over still-soft previous layers, so I upgraded the print fan to improve cooling and allow original print quality at much higher plastic flow rates. The Bambu printers are made to cool large amounts of plastic stock, since they were designed for it in the first place.
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>>2872273
>>2872128
3D printing can take a while, so I made a good printer faster in order to be more productive. Both Prusa and Bambu machines come stock with a variety of features that make for a nicer printing experience, and which are common upgrades to install on cheaper machines. Auto-bed-leveling (the printer checks irregularities in the print bed and compensates), automatic detection of various problems and pausing to let you fix it without causing the print to fail, powerful drive gears that can force through minor blockages that might cause cheaper machines to jam, all-metal direct drive hotends and 100C heated beds (they can handle high-temperature and flexible materials), replaceable flexible magnetic build sheets (makes it easier to remove finished prints, and use different build surfaces for different materials). Some prints and materials can benefit from an enclosure that blocks drafts and retains warm air, so they're a common upgrade too.

>can you elaborate on what you mean >>suitable print sheets
Different plastics have different adhesion properties. Ideally, they hold tight to the build plate when it's hot (for security while printing), then release when it cools off (for ease of removal). PEI-coated steel sheets are popular these days, and different PEI formulations (and different build plate materials like glass or garolite) act like that for different plastics. PETG, for example, is usually grippier than PLA, so it may hold too tight to a sheet that holds PLA securely, even to the point of damaging the sheet when you remove the print. TPU is grippier still. Polypropylene sticks very poorly to most build surfaces, but there are build sheets made for it (though coatings like packing tape can make it printable on other sheets).
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>>2872275
>>2872128
PLA and PETG are the most popular printing materials, and they're close enough in stickiness that a single build sheet can be tuned for both with reasonable results, and this is typically included with printers as a stock build sheet. But if you want to print other materials, you should check what it can and can't do, and whether there are alternate build sheets that can handle those other materials without needing to bother with labor-intensive consumable coatings like glue stick or tape. Common printers have third-party build sheets you can buy even if the manufacturer doesn't sell a particular kind you want. Since print sheets are subject to wear and tear, it's a good idea to have a spare on hand.

>if I printed something once a month you don't think it be overbuying?
A good printer will give a good print after a month of sitting idle. A cheaper printer may have developed flat spots on the wheels (can produce print irregularities - nicer printers use ball bearings on hardened guides) or had the bed or gantry move a bit and need recalibration/tightening. You can save money by taking on the need for more maintenance and calibration, but that's to some degree an ongoing cost. With a cheap power tool that you don't use much, you can go a little slower and still finish a project about as well as a more expensive tool. Cheap printers may outright not be capable of matching the quality of a nice printer even at a slower speed, and if they can, that's probably from work on your part to get and keep them there.
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>>2872276
>>2872128
>I assumed they were coming down in price
Good printers use good components. On paper, a Prusa i3 and a Sovol SV06 look a lot alike, and the SV06 does indeed use a lot of the features that received open-source implementations in the i3. But the Prusa uses more expensive components, which buys tight tolerances, longevity, and manufacturer support. You can run an i3 24/7 for years on a print farm (which is what Prusa Research does itself) without wearing out components or moving the bed/frame out of level/square. This is the reason why people don't choose Vorons for cost savings. When you source high quality parts yourself, it's hard to beat a good premade printer by enough to justify the endeavor. Instead, people choose Vorons to get performance options you can't buy premade, and often end up spending more than an i3 or X1.

>I only started looking at a 3d printer cause I thought they came down in price to be a reasonable 300$ entry.
At that price point, you're going to need to some work yourself to make sure the machine is tuned up properly. It's still way better now than it was in past years. Ender 3s became hugely popular because they were cheap and good enough to be usable with what a lot of people consider an acceptable amount of tinkering. They're way better than, say, the Mendel days (https://youtu.be/mmJOTRqaMEs). Nowadays there are better options, but part of the cost savings of cheap machines is putting some of the quality control onto the customers.

>>2872257
>The SV06 is absolute trash.
What's your opinion of the Creality CR-3? The SV06 isn't a great printer. It's a budget printer. But there are much worse printers out there.
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>>2872277
>acrylic frame
lmfao that thing is probably worse than the SV06
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>>2872279
It was a cheapo clone of a Prusa i3 MK1. The SV06 is a cheapo clone of a Prusa i3 MK3.
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>>2872280
The SV06 is trash because the gantry is skewed and twisted, the bed is skewed, and their ABL sensor was trash.
That CR-3 is basically never going square because that acrylic frame will present all the issues of the SV06 at twice the severity.
When the fuck did people interested in 3D printers get so fucking retarded? Why the everloving fuck would you want a machine thats the same price of a Bambu Labs A1 but prints at half the accuracy/quality?
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>>2872281
>the same price of a Bambu Labs A1
The A1 is currently selling for $300, while the SV06 is currently selling for $180. The A1 is obviously a better printer, but as in other areas of life, people differ in how they trade off quality and price.
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>>2872283
Except the Sv06 is complete trash. Youll basically never get a good full bed first layer.
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>>2872284
>>2872283
>>2872281
>>2872280
I love the passion.
>>2872272
>>2872273
>>2872275
>>2872276
>>2872277
thank you. when I get a minute today I'll sit down and really examine this information.


thank you all for the honest opinions on the sv06. it's helping me figure out what to look for.


I hate to say it but I keep looking at the Bambu A1. I hate the fact I can't find it anywhere but their website. Sears got me once with those lifetime warranties and "just see us" shit.
goes out of business and so do all your promises.
if Bambu just wasn't so closed I'd pull the trigger two days ago.
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>>2872323
Don’t buy a cheap printer

You’ll buy it $500 then realize it’s not what you want and buy a $1000 printer $1500 into it because you tried to be cheap
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>>2872323
>I hate to say it but I keep looking at the Bambu A1.
https://youtu.be/IfQuG44kjMQ

>I hate the fact I can't find it anywhere but their website.
https://bambulab.com/en/dealer
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>>2872361
Just buy a $150 printer first.
Use that to make the parts for the equivalent $2000 printer for free.
Then use your new printer to make the parts for a cheap CNC mill. Then use the cheap CNC mill… well you get the idea.
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>>2872430
Pla boxways and pla cat 40 spindles are a bad idea

Also pla printed ball screws, angular contact bearings, fanuc motors and controllers don’t work all that well nor do pla endmils
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>>2872439
PLA works fine for press dies.
https://youtu.be/7RAPIVD_N7E
https://youtu.be/PpojSgSQf8A
https://youtu.be/wsxFXTKaXdI
>>
why is there no electric conductive 3d pribter filament?
the melting point of solder is pretty low qnd now that 3d printers can print multiple filaments useful stuff could be made such as power outlets or battery cases.
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>>2872531
>power outlets or battery cases

you kidding, right?
stuff made from solder can be broken by babies
the one useful thing for solder is to make PCB traces, but the process is so finicky, nobody does it seriously
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>>2872531
>why is there no electric conductive 3d pribter filament?
https://www.multi3dllc.com/product/electrifi/
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>>2872556
$215 for 100 grams you got to be kidding me. i might as well get a filament extruder becayse the stuff im ibterested in is a total rip off.
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>>2872566
They don't make conductive composite stock pellets. You'd need a lot more than an extruder.
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>>2872566
If it's that easy, then why aren't you doing just that?
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>>2872521
Which part on a milling machine specifically requires compressive force?

You planning on scraping pla ways ? Whoops got to the infill gotta start over
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>>2872652
>>2872661
id just melt 50/50 tin with petg. tin has a melting point of 232c, petg is around the same. im actually interested in tpe more than conductive filament really because i dont have a multiple filament printer. just a k1 and ninjaflex is expensive too.
i wanted a sample of tpe but its only sold on alibaba and the guy asked me if i had an injection mold and itvwas just akward.
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>>2872672
PLA is strong in compression, tension, bending, and shear. It's stronger and stiffer than non-composites more accessible than polycarbonate (which is why it's preferred for guns). People have used it to make CNC machine tools including mills.
https://youtu.be/ctyLjOHg7Ag

>>2872679
>tin has a melting point of 232c, petg is around the same.
And they're not miscible with each other. The solder would bead up and detach from the plastic, leaving a bumpy surface, a print with voids, and likely discontinuous electrical paths. The actual conductive filaments use tiny solid conductors in a plastic binder, and the difficulty of getting that to work properly is one reason why they're expensive.
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>>2872680
well mixing it perfectly would be hard i am aware of that but i think there is a way.
i think the trick is how its fed into the extruder machine. you wouldnt want pellets youd want dust. it be fed with an inner tube tin and the outer tube petg. they out to have the same area. so the inner tube would be bigger than the outer tube. then you calculate based on the weight an gravity constant when theyd fall into the feeder and time the falling just right with a chamber on top of the feeding tube thatd be opened with an electric signal. say a 555 timer or smth. could work. yes yes. but see it doesnt have to be perfect unless i was doing it for commercial purposes anyways...
>>
op here. I think I got all the information I need to make an educated decision. I appreciate you all. i am in no rush and haven't decided on a printer. i will probably watch videos and check this thread and the main out for the next couple of weeks as a lurker to get a feel for the environment before pulling the trigger on a printer.


all your insight has been tremendously helpful and you all got no idea how much i appreciate you taking the time.

I am patient and I think before anything, I want to get better with cad. there is no point in buying a printer that can print 10x better than I can design.

so I figure the first step is design and practice with modeling software.
I know I said it alot but j do appreciate you all. thank you truly.
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>>2872684
Plastic extruders do not work that way.
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>>2872680
That's a router and his results look like ass. Talk about a worse example.
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>>2872680
He’s using linear ways not printed , those ones are like $1000 worth on that machine
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>>2872714
A milling machine is a machine tool which uses a rotating cutter to remove material from a workpiece. When a router is attached to a suitable motion system, it constitutes a milling machine, and this is a common setup for consumer milling machines. And as he said in the video, actually using machine tools is not his area of expertise. Speeds and feeds could use optimization, but the machine is clearly capable of milling aluminum.

>>2872804
He's using linear rails with ball bearings, not ways. And he claims 690€ for the whole build.
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>>2873000
No a cnc router is not capable of surfing it’s just a 2.5 machine

There is no ball bearing on a linear way the ball bearings should be angular contact bearings for the lead screws but he’s using steppers so meh
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>>2873000
A mill makes cuts using torque, a router makes cuts using rotational speed. And if you need any more clues, look what's inserted into his machine as spindle.
>inb4 just pretending
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>>2873008
>No a cnc router is not capable of surfing it’s just a 2.5 machine
It has the same kinematics as a gantry mill (https://youtu.be/pZIgO1N5jow). It can perform face and side milling, and cut slots, profiles, and holes. There are milling machines with fewer degrees of freedom than that.

>There is no ball bearing on a linear way
"Ways" are a kind of plain bearing. The CNC mill in the video uses ball bearings on linear rails. The balls are inside the bearing blocks you can see him install at 4:27 (https://youtu.be/ctyLjOHg7Ag?t=267). And it uses timing belts rather than lead screws. Did you even watch the video?

>>2873011
>A mill makes cuts using torque, a router makes cuts using rotational speed.
Both torque and rotational speed are attributes of all rotating cutters. Both are tailored to particular applications. A PCB mill, for example, typically uses a spindle with less torque and higher rotational speed than that router.

>And if you need any more clues, look what's inserted into his machine as spindle.
A "milling machine" is defined by its motion system (fully constrained on all axes, movement controlled mechanically) and method of cutting (a rotating cutter). A router is a tool which spins a cutter to remove material (with size and form factor suited for manual use in certain particular ways). If a router is attached to a suitable motion system, it constitutes a milling machine.
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>>2873020
No I just skipped to the end to see his chattered and no finish pass equipped results..

You literally just defined a 2.5D machine

Calling this a cnc mill makes people assume it’s capable of 3d tool paths and or 3+1 or 3+2 axis type shit

Calling this a mill is like calling a grocery cart with a harbor freight predator gas engine with a sprocket and bicycle chain driving one of the wheels a motor vehicle
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>>2873090
>No I just skipped to the end to see his chattered and no finish pass equipped results..
A Brdigeport doesn't stop being a milling machine if the operator don't know how to use it well.

>You literally just defined a 2.5D machine
https://www.learnyourcnc.com/blog/what-is-the-difference-between-2d-25d-and-3d-cnc-contouring
The machine in the video has a continuously-controllable Z axis, making it a full 3-axis machine capable of 3D machining. But that's irrelevant to the question of whether or not it's a milling machine, which depends on the definition of a milling machine. A 1-axis gang mill is still a milling machine because of its motion system and rotating cutters.

>Calling this a cnc mill makes people assume it’s capable of 3d tool paths and or 3+1 or 3+2 axis type shit
No it doesn't. It means it's a milling machine (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Milling_(machining)) that uses computer numerical control (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Numerical_control). You're being silly. And that machine is capable of 3D tool paths. It does that in the video.

>Calling this a mill is like calling a grocery cart with a harbor freight predator gas engine with a sprocket and bicycle chain driving one of the wheels a motor vehicle
By definition (and legally) it would be. If you drive it on a public road, you could be ticketed if you don't follow lighting, licensing, and other laws pertaining to motor vehicles.

But to bring this back to where this line of discussion began, >>2872430
>Then use your new printer to make the parts for a cheap CNC mill. Then use the cheap CNC mill… well you get the idea.
Yes, that's a thing people can do. Handwaving about PLA ballscrews doesn't make the anon wrong about that.
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>>2873114
dont bother
>>
whatever happen to the reprap diy concept of building your own 3d printer anyways.
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>>2873127
The concept of RepRap is that 3D printers make new 3D printers. It just happened to get going with DIY printers. As for what happened, the Prusa brothers started selling Mendel kits and built that into a business. The Prusa printers still use printed and common stock parts, though they also use custom hardware (like the i3's aluminum plate frame) for various reasons. The success of the i3 led to a lot of commercial and DIY versions of it. The RepRap project has also split into a variety of different forks, with Voron and RatRig being notable ones today.
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>>2873391
it doesnt feel the bamboo improved on things it just didnt make the kind of mistakes creality made. the k1 is as fragile as glass and the ender 3 is shit. id expect improvements not just correcting mistakes. belts are hacky. should be something like linear actuators. the heating bed should be checker pattern so it wont use 1 kwatt per hour. the creality k2 gas a piwer rating of 1200 watts now.
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>>2873117
tripcodes were invented by moot and because of that are sacred.
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>>2873406
tripcodes were invented by a tipfag, yeah figures.
>>
check this printer out it uses magnets and can print up to 800 ms.
https://peopoly.net/products/magneto-x
the onky thing is nit multi filanent it seems.
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>>2873127
Josef of reprap project started his own company and named it after his last name… Prusa Research
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>>2873114
I see so many office workers type shit like “buy a 3d printer, print your own 3d printer and return the first”

Now these dudes who think M00 is what a cow says are posting as if they know what a cnc mill even is…. Half the time they call cnc mills “cnc machines” and don’t know that laser cutters, plasma cutters,Athens, or even mill turns are even a thing

“How can there be more 3 axis Sieg you fucking idiot that defies the laws of physics!!”

Dmg mori 9axis will blow their minds

A 1980s gene haas rotary table is just beyond their comprehension, and wouldn’t even know it started the brand
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>>2873020
>>2873090
And i thought the textbook definition would be suitable, but just for you two:
>Router
Moves spindle into the material (Head moves in all directions).
>Mill
Moves material into the spindle (Head moves in Z, material in XY).
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CNC_router
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Milling_(machining)
I hope at least one of you learns something from it.
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>>2873391
It didn’t work, the idea of reprap was 1 guy in your area gets a 3d printer

The next guy gets parts from him for free and builds another printer out of all thread frame and hardware store goods then pays it forward

They quickly abandoned the idea when they realized not all hardware is built to the same tolerances, standards, theead pitches or even quality of metal especially world wide

So they elected to just sell 3d printer kits under the prusa brand utilizing 3d printed parts as a gimmick and to keep costs down hence the farm

Then eventually they made enough money to just start injection molding parts , the mini + has mostly injection molded shit with just small touches on the z axis and the bezel surround 3d printed

“Fully 3d printed cnc machine!!!” Is a buzzword for people who don’t understand what a mill is… or how cnc machines even operate

90% of Americans probably won’t bother to learn how to slice an stl and how to load filament

In fact I know a guy who’s girlfriend owns an ender 3 that developed a clog sometime in 2021 and still has it sitting in his apartment with a 3/4 full roll of brittle pla half way up the zaxis, unplugged dusty with a clog in the Bowden tube or hot end somewhere

You really think this chick is going to download fusion 360, learn workholding, and look up climb milling to see if her little 3d printed gimmick kit can kill parts to tolerance? She probably couldn’t read a mic

Just 3d print your own bro hurrrr

Is just a youtuber click bait thing where they buy pieces parts off misumi or something and print minor brackets, bearing supports and maybe an lcd bezel and button or two and call it a “fully 3d printed cnc”

For the views and trick people that are entertained by watching football and baseball thinking they’re smarter than everyone else because they know you can “just 3d print your own cnc bruh I saw it on YouTube”. With zero 3d printing experience
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i bought the original elegoo saturn from a friend like 2-3 years ago. hardly ever used it though outside of maybe doing a handful of minis for dnd and a few character statues.

recently i got back into play warhammer so now my interest in 3d printing came back. i havent kept up with resin printing news but im certain by now some good ones have been released.
is it still worth keeping the Saturn around or should i just upgrade and look into some newer models (any brand)?



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