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Mid-July edition

Previous: >>18122576

>FORUMS
www.forums.filmnoirbuff.com
askandyaboutclothes.com/viewforum.php?id=13
www.styleforum.net/forums/classic-menswear.5/forum
www.reddit.com/r/NavyBlazer
thecurriculum.net/forum

>READS/BOOKS/ALBUMS
https://pastebin.com/ZFgGqJ68 (embed)

>Blogs: https://pastebin.com/ZjRtCQNQ (embed)
>Brands: https://pastebin.com/Sb54Bsri (embed)
>>
Can somebody please infer whether the quality description in pic rel is acceptable for a pair of loafers? They are the following: https://www.spierandmackay.com/product/dark-brown-loafer-9476-m205-b02

I had initially planned on getting a high quality pair from Berwick, but shipping them to Canada totals to $500 CAD, which feels preposterous as the retail price is only €215.00. On top of the fact that I would need to pay an additional $120 CAD for return/replacement shipping if I get the wrong size.
>>
>>18172726
>Blake stitch
Neither better nor worse than Goodyear welt, especially for a shoe like a loafer. Not as common, some cobblers don't have the equipment/training to do a resole when shoes are made this way. The reality is most people never resole their shoes despite how often we jerk off over welts.

>Full grain leather upper
Sort of like saying a shirt is made from cotton. There's good leather and bad leather, it's not like they're telling you what tannery it's from

>Studded rubber outsole
I actually really like that, gives a little extra traction without making the sole chunkier overall

>Made in CHYNA
This is what most people will look at and screech, and I get why. Chinese QC is often abysmal especially with clothing, but they are more than capable of making high quality garments. One of my favorite pairs of boots were made in China, I've got a pair of Grant Stone kudu boots that I can't praise enough. They certainly beat the shit out of Allen Edmonds and they cost less.
So great quality is completely possible, but how will you know if you're getting the meme tier shit or something actually good? You won't unless there's a shit load of unbiased reviews.

Overall, I've been thrilled with S&M products. I've got a bunch of shirts, ties and trousers from them, I would like to think their shoes would be equally as well made but frankly I wouldn't take the risk without alot more info.

If you're in Canada how much would a pair of Meermin loafers cost compared to S&M mystery meat? What's your budget and time frame?
>>
>>18172721
>open pastebin
>one of the first links is to Gentleman's Gazette

you can't be serious
>>
>>18172766
>you can't be serious

>Anon unable to separate his dislike of the people giving the information from the quality of information being given.

Sad. Many such cases.
I'll be fair though, please give a couple examples of bad advice or inaccurate information they've provided.
>>
>>18172736
Thanks for the detailed response! Understanding the nuances of satorialism and menswear more generally is fairly intimidating, so I appreciate receiving guidance from this general. I recently placed an order from S&M for trousers and shirts, so I look forward to receiving those in about a week. I initially placed an order for a single pair of S&M 32" high rise trousers, and my tailor suggested I return them and instead get 30" trousers. Upon measuring the 32", he determined that they were in fact 33".

Meermin looks to be a good option, I will likely execute an order with them. The only apparent con being the inability to make a free return/exchange, but perhaps worth a risk for a higher quality shoe for a marginally higher cost. I would be willing to spend around $300CAD and I would like to receive them within a few weeks - so Meermin looks to be an appropriate candidate.
>>
>>18172790
If you get a pair of loafers from Meermin, get the ones with the new Nova last, it's a more classic shaped rounded last. To me it looks better than their older slim/pointed/sexxxcore loafers.
>>
>>18172830
Thoughts on these two pairs?
1) https://meermin.com/products/101484-expresso-antique-calf-e)
2) https://meermin.com/products/514511-dark-borwn-softcalf-e

I prefer the colour/finish on the former, but it does have a Ron last rather than Nova.
>>
>>18172841
I agree with you, I do like the color better but I've read horror stories about the previous lasts compared to praise for the Nova last, so I'd be very hesitant to buy it unless you have a narrow foot.

I'm not sure what your budget and timeline is but here's some more options. I own shoes from Ranncourt and Grant Stone and can vouch for their quality, my buddy has a few pairs from Velasca. The only reason I haven't bought for myself is they don't have a wide width, and going up a half size doesn't always work. His loafers look great though. I don't like how they're always running a 20% sale, that means that they $360 shoe isn't actually 360, the normal price is $288 since the discount is always active but that's just a peeve I have about marketing in general.

https://www.rancourtandcompany.com/products/pinch-penny-loafer-dark-brown?size=11.5&width=D&color=Dark%20Brown&variant=41546003513476

https://www.grantstoneshoes.com/products/traveler-penny-tobacco-calf

https://www.velasca.com/products/daziee-tdm

I'm going to throw Beckett Simonon in as well to consider for future purchases. They make excellent shoes especially for the price, the caveat being they are made to order so there's normally a wait time of 2 to 4 months. Obviously not ideal when you need a shoe promptly, but it's great if you can plan ahead. Last I checked they still offered a one year warranty if anything goes wrong, so even if you wear them hard for a few months they'll take the shoes back.

https://www.beckettsimonon.com/products/roy-loafers
>>
I just thrifted my first ocbd and now I get why you guys like them so much. When ironing, do you guys just iron the collar flat and then fold it without ironing the crease, or do you iron the crease once the collar is folded too? I'm obviously asking because this shirt needs ironing. Pls no bulli, I'm a tiplet, but I will post some hopefully decent fits soon when once some more clothes arrive.
>tfw I saw this picture and realized I need to get a bigger hat, or just get a haircut and stop wearing hats
>>
>>18172773
about wearing a sport coat with a t-shirt:
>most people’s first associations are still going to be with the 80s and you’ll have the general effect of looking like a throwback.
for me this is really inaccurate, as this trend continues until today, not with pastels though. They just don't pay attention to it because it's not their style, and most people will not think of the 80s.
>>
>>18172860
>When ironing, do you guys just iron the collar flat and then fold it without ironing the crease, or do you iron the crease once the collar is folded too?

I'm probably doing it wrong because I extend the collar up so it's pointing up then iron it that way, I fold it back down to button it. It seems to give the collar a better curve when I do it that way instead of ironing it flat.

Also bro what the fuck are you doing I know you censored the faces but why would you post your kid here?
>>
>>18172860
you dont need to iron the fold
>>
>>18172860
Doug here, damn that baby looking good
>>
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Anyone familiar with all the different Brooks Brothers diffusion lines able to tell me where this falls in the hierarchy and what sort of quality I could expect?
>>
>>18172891
I'm EU so not really a BB experet even though I've had some items for a decade or two, but I'm pretty sure 1818 if their premium lineup aka best of catalogue not counting some special items
>>
>>18172902
can't type rn
expert*
is their*
>>
>>18172773

If you spend your whole life building wardrobes but you never look good, it kills the value of your advice. I'm not even saying he's ugly, he's just hopeless at dressing in a way that works for them. If you think you can find value in what they say go for it, but Trad/Ivy/Prep needs to look effortless, so it's kinda retarded to take pointers from someone who can't dress themselves in the best of scenarios.

Basically, even if their fundamentals are fine in text, someone who has no idea isn't gonna be able to pick those out and will end up looking just as visually unappealing as his visual cues. I guess that makes sense when you see the kind of LARP that this board can produce, though.

>>18172879

Even worse in my opinion, they said the same thing about polos.
>>
>>18172879
did people truly wear sport coats or were they wearing linen suit jackets during the peak miami vice influence in the 80s?
>>
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Bros the andover shop ocbs for full power collar roll.
Not my picture obviously but i have to wonder if there is such thing as too much collar roll
>>
>>18172721
>reused the same image
>didnt link the last thread
>(embed) (embed)
>didnt post instagram inspo links
most retarded OP in awhile
>>
>>18172790
>Upon measuring the 32", he determined that they were in fact 33".
Uh yeah, 32" pants are for guys whose waist is 32", you need an extra half inch on each side so its not skintight since theyre not elastic.
>>
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If anyone is interested a bunch of clearance RL polo " bleeding madras" popovers and some short sleeve BDs (yuck) just showed up on ebay.
Even more crazy the long sleeve doesn't have a pony on it.
Just got one new with tags for $38
I don't think they are hand loomed but unlike the current jpress madras popovers they should actually bleed.
>>
>>18172958
Oh yeah look at one of the listings with actual ruler measurements on garment for sizing because the sizing info all the sellers copy pasted from RLs website is wrong.
http://ebay.com/itm/305470399861?
>>
>>18172953
Well, hopefully the 30" turnout to be sufficient once the side-adjusters are loosened. The 32" were an inch-or-so too large with the side-adjusters fully tightened, so rather than making a waist adjustment to every pair of pants at the tailor, I am hoping that the 30" produce an appropriate fit. Regrettably 31" is not available in any of the S&M high-rise trousers.
>>
>>18172965
> Regrettably 31" is not available in any of the S&M high-rise trousers.
Isn't their made to measure/custom sizing only an extra $10?
Might be worth it
>>
>>18172965
>>18172969
That said 30 should be fine.
I hate buying clothes online sometimes, the selection is amazing but fit can be a hassle
>>
>>18172972
They do offer M2M, and in hindsight, perhaps I should have ordered a few different OTR sizes and then decided my preferred measurements based upon that. I was mostly worried the M2M garments would be of a poor fit and that I couldn't return them. I did however order one M2M OCBD, so I am expecting to receive that in a few weeks - despite taking my measurements precisely as described, I am uncertain what to expect for the fit.

Even if I need to make significant alterations to all my OTR orders from S&M, it will be much more economical + yield better quality than buying anything OTR from local stores.
>>
>>18172958
PRL often doesn't have the pony on shirts with a pocket, unless it's unisex model then it will be on the right hip
>>
>>18172879
>for me this is really inaccurate, as this trend continues until today, not with pastels though.

Is your argument that just because something persists it's good? Because wearing a T-shirt with a sport coat often looks like absolute shit, especially when people wear the t-shirt with a suit jacket, not even a sport coat.

I'm not saying that it's impossible to make the look good, I just got a navy/white horizontal stripe T-shirt that I'm going to pair with a linen sport coat and linen trousers.
>>
>>18173034
I am saying that their argument "it looks dated" is inaccurate because it's done even today. I agree with you that more often than not it looks bad on people, because you need a good eye for what kind of jacket works with a t-shirt, and most don't.
>>
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>>18173040
>I am saying that their argument "it looks dated" is inaccurate because it's done even today

Nta but I have to agree here, if we're being honest there's a lot of things in this style that "look dated" by today's standards but we still wear them. Hell alot of people think ties in general are entirely antiquated and useless, I still love them.

If they wanted to argue the look doesn't work because of the clashing levels of formality I'd get it, but even then I think it can be done well. Combining disparate elements from other styles and levels of formality can work very well. Them saying don't do something because it's dated and then going and selling shit like boutonnieres is a bit hypocritical of them.

>>18173002
>PRL often doesn't have the pony on shirts with a pocket

This may be something that's changed over time, my Yarmouth OCBDs have the polo player on the pocket.

>>18172972
Spier sizing is tricky, I don't know if it's a QC issue or their size charts are wrong. I bought several pairs of their high rise trousers and had them hemmed before they were sent to me, the measurements were exactly what the size chart said they would be. The OCBDs I bought were a complete clusterfuck and much smaller
than the chart indicated. I really like the cut and quality of the fabric, I'm tempted to buy another shirt in a different cut but they sell out of classic and contemporary in my size very quickly.
>>
>>18172950
this, wtf. Here is the previous thread for anyone in the future reading the archives:
>>>18152976
>>
>>18173103
I made that thread.
>>
>>18173040
It’s important to note that the best t-shirts with a jacket will always be some type of fully fashioned knit like John Smedley or Mooncastle etc. Regular jersey looks really bad most of the time
>>
>>18173135
>John Smedley

https://www.johnsmedley.com/uk/20singular-t-shirt?_gl=1*m2miq3*_up*MQ..&gclid=Cj0KCQjwv7O0BhDwARIsAC0sjWMNeIJQgrfTA1uu1koAM4kExc3jBn__yr2A1WvdHUET4srCSpxaM0YaAoXaEALw_wcB

You're right, these are very nice. I wish the length was three inches longer. I'd buy one but it would look like a crop top on me.
>>
>>18173089
>This may be something that's changed over time, my Yarmouth OCBDs have the polo player on the pocket.
I think they just do both, and have for a while, but their oxfords seem to have a different rule set; I don't think I've ever seen a ponyless version unless it has another embroidery instead
>>
>my size in most pants is 31-32
>which means my actual waist measurement is about 35"
>which means my size in Jack Donnelly is 34
god I hate vanity sizing. Anyways does anyone have a rec for good high rise chinos that don't cost $150?
>>
>>18173244
it's not really vanity for once per se, trouser size used to correspond directly to true waist measurement and the field never changed it as different rises came around
>>
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Got a spier and mackay OCBD in in their off the rack ivy design, contemporary fit.
This was the smallest neck size they do for the contemporary fit and its still too big for my pencil neck.
How is the rest of the fit?
Im happy with the cut of the sleeves but the torso still seems a bit trim.
>>
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>>18173331
More importantly hows the fit when i lift my arms up?
Im thinking the armholes are maybe a bit low, or is this normal?
>>
>>18173331
>>18173335
You need to get on GOMAD asap
>>
>>18173331
As far as the shirt quality goes, stitching seems fine, fabric is not bad at all, shirt smells like a Bangladeshi garment factory.
Detailing mostly seems fine, boxepleat looks good. The cuffs taper a bit which im not sure if that's really right, i think they should be straight cuffs.
The gussets on the hem are stitched over the outside instead of being folded into the hem.
Overall not bad for less then $70
But if im going to be stuck doing MTO i might just go with proper cloth since they seem to have better sizing/fitting over the Internet services. And the price difference is like $10 for custom sizing.
Using the spier and mackay sizing algorithm on their website they recommended that i order a 15 1/2 extra slim lol
>>
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Thinking about my fall wardrobe. Which is better for everyday wear: Venetian or penny loafers?
>>
Any Australian sweeties know where to get a reasonable brown sport coat or blazer? Ideally darker than taupe. Don't really wanna spring over 500-600, but some of the designs at places like MJ Bale are diabolical
>>
>>18173526
Moc toe penny loafer if youre american
>>
>go to Italy
> People aren't dressed in full sprezzatura and most people just dress the same as any other place
Wtf bros
>>
>D width slightly too tight at toes
>EE width slightly too loose at heel
Which do I pick? I don’t have another option.
>>
>>18173649
1: If D is too tight and EE is too loose, have you considered regular E or going up a half size in D? So instead of 11D or 11EE you'd do 11E or 11.5D

2: If those are literally your only two options: If it's lace up, go for EE and tighten the laces and buy a heel pad/insert (dirt cheap on Amazon) to prevent heel slip. Or get thicker socks. If it's skip on, get the D and either deal with the break in or buy a shoe stretcher that you can insert and then open up to loosen the toe box.
>>
>>18173558
They all wear the same Zara shit on every block. The same salmon-colored trousers.
>>
>>18172857
Interesting... Acknowledging your warning re: Ron last, I am still going to proceed with the "expresso" coloured loafers which I linked previously from Meermin. If the fit turns out to be horrendous, I can accept paying $20 to make the return. If you'd like, I can provide an update re: whether the Ron last is tenable in this thread when I receive them in ~ 1 week. My foot borders on normal/narrow, so it might be fine.

Thanks again!
>>
>>18173813
>If you'd like, I can provide an update re: whether the Ron last is tenable in this thread when I receive them in ~ 1 week.

Please do! I'm need a pair of suede loafers so I'm looking at Grant Stone, Ranncourt and Meermin. I have plenty of experience with the first two brands so any info you could give on fit and quality for the Meermin would be much appreciated.
>>
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Holy shit the vanity sizing on the LL Bean classic chios is off the charts.
I bought a pair in size 31 for my measured 32" waist and they have 2+ inches excess waistband on me. They measure like 34" inches.
>>
>>18174117
32" trousers fitting 34" waist is the norm
>>
I’m looking for slightly off white, maybe slightly slubby socks with a wide-ish rib. Some type of athletic sock with a slightly vintage feel. The type of things they use in some New Balance advertisements or whatever. Does anyone have any brand recommendations? Obviously there’s Uniqlo but they lack the texture and wide rib.
>>
>>18174140
I got you senpai
https://maggiesorganics.com/organic-cotton-socks-classic-crew/
http://ecochoices.com/products/organic-cotton-crew-socks-three-packs?
>>
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>>18174140
Nice Laundry?
>>
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>>18174140
If you really want to go hard the Wigwam Husky Crew Wool Socks - F1089 in cream or off white or whatever. Fiar warning they are wool
You will have to check a few different stores to find stock
>>
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>>18174140
I got you bro, I just ordered a shit load of this style from Stance and American Trench. You're going to want to search "striped athletic crew socks" or "striped crew socks" to find more.


https://www.stance.com/boyd-st-crew-socks/A556A20BOS.html?dwvar_A556A20BOS_color=brownsugar&dwvar_A556A20BOS_size=M&quantity=1

https://www.americantrench.com/products/retro-stripes-ss22?variant=45995993628918
>>
>>18174178
stupid faggot
>>
>>18174158
Thanks. Maggie’s Organics seems good if I can get them here in EU. If not, then I think the best here is probably Rototo. I notice Maggie’s Organics is 98% cotton where other brands like Rototo might be 83% cotton. Is there any significant different in durability or feel? Does the almost 100% cotton lose shape or elasticity very easily?
>>
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>>18174460
>Is there any significant different in durability or feel? Does the almost 100% cotton lose shape or elasticity very easily?

Sometimes it can depending on your foot size, how often you wear them and how you launder them. Basically most socks are cut to fit multiple sizes, say 8-12. If your foot is a wide 12 it's going to put more stress of the sock than if you're a narrow 10, and it can lose shape unless it has synthetics woven in to help retain elasticity. Also if you do things like wash with hot water and then dry on the hottest settings in can further lose shape or shrink.

>>18174117
Their shirts are the same way, I'm normally a large tall in most brands but I have to size down to a medium tall since their large is basically an XL. Their oxfords are pretty generously cut as well, the tailored or trim fit is the way to go even if you aren't skinny.

>>18173331
>Im happy with the cut of the sleeves but the torso still seems a bit trim.

Welcome to Spier and Mackay sizing. The slim and contemporary are the opposite of vanity sized, they run smaller than the size chart indicates, and a couple of my shirts shrank dramatically after a single wash in cold water.

Keep an eye out for their classic fit, that will fit more like how you'd expect a traditional oxford to fit.

>>18173244
>Anyways does anyone have a rec for good high rise chinos that don't cost $150?
Bronson MFG make excellent high rise chinos that aren't really vanity sized, you'll get a rise between 12.5-14 inches depending on your waist size. Lands End chinos are great once you figure out they're sizing, and they're pretty consistent with the sizing too.

>Today's fit
Trying the French Ivy look, mainly an excuse to wear my black loafers more often.

https://www.permanentstyle.com/2021/05/what-is-french-ivy.html

https://ameblo.jp/beams-class/entry-10972492958.html

https://ameblo.jp/beams-class/entry-12791011043.html

https://www.lesindispensablesparis.com/mode/french-ivy-popeye
>>
>>18174507
>Keep an eye out for their classic fit, that will fit more like how you'd expect a traditional oxford to fit.
I was thinking of ordering one in classic fit but the shoulders are 1/2 inch more narrow in the same size so i would have to go with a custom sizing order anyway.
I think im going to give proper cloth a shot.
The Andover shop, O'Connell's and a few other shops like that are the only ones that have my size off the rack (14 1/2 , 33) and Im not ready to drop like $500 on 3 shirts.
>>
>>18174460
>Is there any significant different in durability or feel? Does the almost 100% cotton lose shape or elasticity very easily?
100% cotton is definitely a more old school style of sock, some nylon thrown in probably helps durability and 100% cotton won't dry as quickly
>>
>>18174581
>O'Connell's

O'conell's OCBDs are awesome but surprisingly lightweight. They have a regular and heavyweight option, I have two of the regular and they're perfect for spring and summer. I'll probably grab a heavyweight for the fall, I want to try the Luxire "Warzone" heavyweight oxford too.

If you're slim, try Kamakura and JPress. Kamakura was slightly too slim for my liking but would probably work great for you. JPress has classic and trim, the trim is just a touch slimmer than the classic and gives a more streamlined, modern shape, but the trim still has plenty of shoulder room.
>>
So i grew up in Southern TX. Good old conservative Hispanic town. When i was around HS age the fashion "mode" for young men was khakis with a polo shirt (red for school) and some RL boots or shoes.

Recently someone told me that that type of dress is somewhat preppy?

Is that true? I still kinda dress the same now but i never could figure out what my style is or was.
>>
Where is good place to get dress socks? Presently, I only own cheap dress socks that come in 5-packs from department stores/fast fashion brands. I would like to get some shadow-striped socks in particular
>>
>>18174887
Boardroom Socks, Mes Chausettes Rouges
>>
>>18174887
Take a look at pantherella
>>
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hi /tip/ stars, I got this 3/2 blazer from ebay, what do you think? I believe the fit is decent, but are the sleeves too short? Also, the tag only says that it's Brooks and made in the USA. Does anyone know what sort of weave and material (it better be 100% wool ofc) that is? It's very light and you can see light through it when you hold it up to the window.
>>
>>18175194
oh and, uh, sorry for the retarded photos. I took off my navy t shirt so you could see the jacket better. Also apparently the BFS stamp on the tag stands for Brooks Factory Store, so this jacket might have originally been a blem or something...
>>
>>18175194
I have no idea what im talking about but it looks like it fits you well.
>>18175198
>Also apparently the BFS stamp on the tag stands for Brooks Factory Store, so this jacket might have originally been a blem or something...
Yup, there is a guy on eBay who just sells brooks brothers blem shirts by the truckload. Pretty solid deal if the flaw is inconspicuous, 90% of the time it's a tiny run in the weave of the fabric or a pinhole.
This dude
http://ebay.com/itm/326076989790
>>
>>18175290
huh, that's pretty decent. Who really cares about a tiny flaw when OCBDs are meant to be worn for ages and get frayed, etc.
>>
>>18175296
Yeah ocbds are supposed to be piss stained, sweat stained, hole ridden second hand trash. Truly tip
>>
>>18175381
>Mild run by a button
>Gaping holes and piss stains

Yeah because clearly those are exactly the same. Are you the retard that screeches if anyone buys something
second hand it doesn't count?
>>
>>18175381
This but unironically
>>
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Rancourt is doing a presale for a bunch of their models at basically 1/3 off. If you don't mind waiting 5 months for your shoes it's a pretty good deal.
https://www.rancourtandcompany.com/collections/spring-summer-2024-pre-sale
>>
First time checking here in a while, looks like it's still just a buncha newfags asking for advice
>>18172891
Generic shit from the 2000s. Pass
>>
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Dear Elitesman, I really think that >>15446244 hit on something big. To feel more confident as a part of elite you need to go back to their roots. What did constitute all these people you see on preppy pictures we post here you may ask? It was their education. Remember these funny colourful jumpers with letters or dates knitted on them- these were college jumpers indeed.Did you go to a college? Yes? Then you can already just relax, sit comfortably and imagine yourself being the fifth guy walking with these lads on a gloomy day at Princeton. You already made it. And don't let anyone tell you that your college in Tennessee is any worse than Ivy League or Oxbridge. It's not true for sure and anyway all classes at some of them are going to be online unlike at yours Alma Mater (big 'L' for them - who's laughing now). Consider though expanding your vocabulary and getting fluent in 'academese'. I've heard that elites love to use long many-syllables-long words of foreign roots to stress that they're a part of elite and not blend in with commoners - that's why you took /TIP/-way in the first place. Start today with replacing 'sorry' with 'I beg your pardon'. You can also learn couple of foreign phrases. 'Merci beaucoup' said at an Italian restaurant to a waiter can go a long way if by any chance a fellow Elitesman is sitting at the table next to yours.
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>>18175545
And it's still full of smug retards like yourself who contribute nothing.
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>>18175839
>'Merci beaucoup' said at an Italian restaurant to a waiter can go a long way if by any chance a fellow Elitesman is sitting at the table next to yours.
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>>18175839
I personally go with Muchas gracias at a japanese restaurant
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>>18175839
I like your style and I would like to read more like this
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>>18175860
>>18175851
>>18175839
Corny Doug tier trash
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>>18172721
>thecurriculum.net/forum
literal dead forum (404)
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>>18172721
The plural of forum is fora.
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>>18176029
Go away corny nerd
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>>18176045
They’re right. If you’re too uneducated or uncultured to either know that or care, then you don’t belong in this thread.
>>
https://pt.aliexpress.com/i/1005005977894537.html

Does this look like shit
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>>18174117
thanks for taking one for the team, no one posts any sizing experience when these get brought up
>>18174132
this is fucked and you know it
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>>18176056
Grammar checking 4chan threads isn't tip, it's corny nerd shit
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>>18176180
>aliexpress
Please return to your general, doug.
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>>18176056
my guy I took 3 years of latin in school and am a professor at a top 20 private university I assure you knowing latin conjugations is NOT a /tip/ requirement
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>>18176251
lmfao
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>>18176216
>this is fucked and you know it
Maybe, but trouser size used to correspond directly to true waist measurement, until stuff like mid-, and low-rise came along which aren't intended to sit right at the true waist. 2" difference has been a thing forever as the field never made correction to new silhouettes, it's only beyond that, which is actual vanity sizing.
Eg. if you have two 32" trousers, and one is 2" wider circumference, one of those manufacturers is a piece of shit
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>>18176255
no i'm well aware, but size charts and brands are hardly upfront about it. also as someone who has to frequently try on 32s and 31s, 32s almost -always- have way more 'room to grow' than 31s in almost every brand, which again is fucked.
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>>18176247
Just answer the question it comes from the same manufacturing plants as your shit suits
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>>18176180
Pinstripes always look like shit
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>>18176251
>I took 3 years of Latin in school
we all did congrats on being average
>professor at a top 20 private university
ok so at best a faggot and at worst a larping faggot
>>
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>>18174117
My "true waist" (slightly above my belly button where my torso naturally bends) is 30 1/2. Sizing on their site says the 31 fits a 30-31" waist. It doesn't, like i said it's not even close. I probably won't bother trying the 30, since its probably also too damn big.
I realized recently that most "trad" clothing is made for fat boomers. If someone writes a glowing post about the fit of a classic jpress ocbd they are medically obese.
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>>18176292
All clothing is made for fatties or twigs, that’s the problem. It leans towards fatties relative to the given size. Usually both, see skinnyfat. The worst offender of this is any athletic fit clothing which never fits anyone with actual decent amounts of muscle mass, just delusional fat guys who have no size yes somehow think they hold muscle.
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>>18175849
i answered some newfags dumb question, cry moar
>>
According to this guy on TikTok there was this japanese brand called 'Van' in Japan in the 60s that wanted to push Ivy style clothes, the japanese in the 60s considered the ivy style too casual and offensive so the company decided to go to the US to take pictures of these Ivy university students to use as marketing to show the japanese how the cool westerners were adopting the style. When they arrived turns out nobody was dressing Ivy style, they all wore sweatshirts and gym clothes, they went oh shit, so they staged a bunch of photos with student unions, dressed them in Ivy style and used the photos as marketing. One of the materials they produced was 'Take Ivy'.

What the fuck bros? Did they japanese fool us all?
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>>18176379
>When they arrived turns out nobody was dressing Ivy style, they all wore sweatshirts and gym clothes
They probably went to Brown
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>>18176379
I dont think thats exactly the story but thats the gist. The company founder visited in the 50s and was inspired by the style. When he returned in the late 60s there definitely were real kids wearing ivy and casualized ivy, but it wasnt as dominant as it was when he first visited.
But yes, Take Ivy was marketing. IIRC the book was just side material to a documentary they made for potential investors.
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>>18176421
The book was marketing but you can look at dress codes for the time, I'll see if I can find the list Yale gave incoming students for wardrobe they needed to purchase. It's not like he was making a style out of thin air.
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>>18175399
Damn, their prices have jumped around 20% since I bought my ranger mocs 3 years ago.
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>>18176649
>Damn, their prices have jumped around 20% since I bought my ranger mocs 3 years ago.

.....

Have you paid the slightest attention to the economy over the past few years ?
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>>18176663
That well outstrips any inflation you could appeal to.
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>>18176726
Anon if anything thats way lower than a lot of companies have hiked prices
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>>18176726
Real inflation of the USD has been nearly 50% since 2020.
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>>18176924
Source :I made it the fuck up lmao
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Anyone got some tips for making a /tip/ fit look effortless? Beyond wearing well fitting / tailored clothes what are some things to look out for that make the difference between looking at ease and well put together instead of looking like some kid that's gotten dressed up for church?
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Should I spend $200 on a (visibly) used brooks brothers polo coat? What temperatures are they suited for?
t. need a business casual coat for winter
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>>18177068
I'd say just stick to basics and don't try to be some faggy style icon. Don't try to pull off colourful socks, fancy pocket squares, madras for the most part, colourful boutonnieres, wearing a bunch of patterned pieces in the same outfit, gth pants, unusual shoes (weird leathers, different colours of leather in the same shoe, etc).

It's not to say that any of those are inherently bad but, let's be honest, very very few people have the looks, skill and pedigree to actually pull it off, and certainly none of us in this thread do.
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>>18175399
i have 3 pairs of rancourts and all of them have the same issue. one shoe looks fine and normal and the other shoe looks super creased. I dont think its my foot because i have other loafers in other brands that dont do this. theres a word for it that leather nerds use, what is it called, clicking? it makes me want to throw them away.
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>>18177175
Yeah, its the joys of horween chromexel. It needs to be cut with extreme care and with a lot of waste so it doesn't end up looking like a wrinkled ballsack.
Your pic is understandably annoying but nowhere near as bad as that leather can get.
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>>18177160
no
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>>18177068
Casual / modern garments with traditional tip garments. Baseball caps, jeans, sneakers etc. I think oxfordclothbuttondown pretty much has it on point.
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>>18177184
why?
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>>18177188
It's not going to look good on just about anyone. Also it's not business or casual or business casual
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This corny ass nerd deleting his own posts lmaooo
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>>18177160
Unironically just get a parka from lands end
https://www.landsend.com/products/mens-expedition-waterproof-winter-down-parka/id_368990
https://www.landsend.com/products/mens-squall-insulated-waterproof-winter-parka/id_380695
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>>18176218
>>18177202
Nice comma splice.
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Okay i decided im going to bite the bullet and order a custom sized Oxford from proper cloth.
Im skinny as fuck 14.5-33
Should i copy the sizing of the j press trim fit or the kamakura vintage ivy?
I would just order some shirts from kamakura but the sleeves are too short according to their size chart.
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>>18177371
Can't you measure your arms or have someone measure them for you?

Also be forewarned, they are still going super skinny in 2024 so if you use the auto-size gizmo, which I think has like "very tailored", "tailored", and "classic", go with the least "tailored" of the options whatever it's called.
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>>18177371
It's over
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>>18177377
>Can't you measure your arms or have someone measure them for you?
I did, i need a 33” sleeve
The kamakura size 14.5 has 22.5" sleeves, otherwise i would just buy those
>Also be forewarned, they are still going super skinny in 2024 so if you use the auto-size gizmo
Yeah im not using that, it actually did pretty well but when i had it auto size for traditional fit it gave me really full cut measurements, like nearly Mercer size. Which i guess is what i asked for but that shit looks ridiculous on me. So im just referencing some shirts that i have that fit and then referencing a few manufacturers size charts for inspiration.
That's why i was asking if i should copy the fit of the j press trim fit or the kamakura vintage ivy.
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>>18177175
Looking at that pic tells me
1: You don't use shoe trees
2: You don't use leather conditioner
3: You have fat feet

Basically you get what you fucking deserve.
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>>18177022
I trust Israel!!!
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>>18177489
bro, i baby my fucking shoes. i use saphir renovateur black creme on them. yes i put shoe trees every time after i wear them. my feet are a 12D on the brannock device. the leather is just crinkly ass garbage
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>>18177190
Man
>>18177211
I already have a very similar canada goose parka (old, pre tacky arm badge), that is too warm much of the time and feels too casual to wear with wool trousers
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Boat shoes. There has to be a better option than Sperry and LLBean.
Please help
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>>18178424
>Boat shoes. There has to be a better option than Sperry and LLBean.
Spago
https://sebago-usa.com/collections/mens-boat-shoes
Rancourt and co
Quoddy
https://www.quoddy.com/collections/mens-in-stock
Yuketen
The made in maine Sperry's are okay but kinda overpriced
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>>18178424
Also gokey if you don't mind the more rustic look and want real traditional multi sole moccasin construction.
They have a promo for $50 off in one of their banners
https://gokeyusa.com/home/gokey-shoes/gokey-boat-shoe/
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>>18178456
Thanks, these are exactly what I was looking for
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Today
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>>18178474
Jacket is foul, never wear it again. Nice collar on the shirt though. The blue socks are crying for attention, switch to white. Socks should not draw the eye, which they do here
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>>18176180
hey, doug here.
yeah this kinda looks like shit, not going to lie.
the cut of the lapels and pants is nice, and the fabric looks nice, but the problem with all of these OTR aliexpress suits is, no matter how "high quality" they look, they are all, invariably, too short in the torso (assuming you wear a "Regular" jacket length), which never looks good.
also, I bought a pair of pants in that exact same fabric a long time ago; the fabric is a thin cotton that pills and wears very quick, so I wouldn't recommend it.

If you absolutely MUST have a suit in this fabric, (again, assuming you wear a "Regular" jacket length) you'd best be willing to accept it looking like shit (in which case why buy it at all), or contrive some cockamamie scheme to buy multiple of that suit so you can unstich all the fabric panels and re-sew it into a jacket that covers your ass, which is definitely not worth the effort.
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>>18178474
Seersucker anorak is a bit much but you can pull it off if you have youthful looks. Blue socks make the dandy. I like how they give the outfit a dash of colour but the shell already served that purpose, so I would probably go with a manila instead.
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>>18178541
within no more than half an hour, like clockwork. its almost as if you never leave the house and wait for me to post all day.
get a hobby you sad mentally-ill loser.
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>>18178549
>wait for me to post all day.
You are actually schizophrenic lmao
>>
I know bills kahakis reputation isn't what it used to be but i noticed a guy on ebay selling a couple hundred pairs NWT for about half of retail. Some of them seem like they were made overseas or just aren't khakis but they have a good number of the regular old m1/m2/m3 pairs if anyone is interested.
Lots of them are unhemmed
https://www.ebay.com/itm/143105441967
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>>18172891
Depends on the item. I've seen some 'Madison' stuff that was made in the USA or Canada (at least I think that I have), while others are made in Thailand with fabrics from no-name mills. Similarly, I have a herringbone cotton/linen sports coat that was made in Italy with Tessuti di Sondrio fabric, but I've seen jackets with the exact same pattern and identifying markers that were made in Thailand. Seems like a total crapshoot for origin and quality.
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>>18178572
Madison is just the fit. 1818 is the line.
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>>18178540
Fair point.
Its definitely a bit tricky. The problem for me is picking the right shirt to go with it. Maybe a polo or solid colored rugby would work.
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>>18178549
not that guy, but I check the thread from my phone probably every 30 minutes, even when I'm not home
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A parcel has arrived from Japan. Should I open it?
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>>18179175
Nope, just leave it closed forever.
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>>18179175
Kill yourself dog faggot
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>>18179178
dine then, I won't show you.
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>>18179175
Kamakura?
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>>18177567
take your meds
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>>18178456
you have these? if so what size did you go with?
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hey guys, im conflicted about my style atm
i used to hang out with druggies and general undesirables and we'd obviously dress mostly casual, jeans, tracksuits, whatever

now its been 10 years since i left that life and i want to be mature and i love preppy and elegant styles but i get total impostor syndrome wearing those things, and im afraid people will think im arrogant for dressing that way

How do i deal with my own conflicted views on this style of clothing which i like but at the same time feel like i dont deserve or im not worthy off? Wether its /tip/ or just dressing up in general
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¿Is this proper /prep/ boys ?
¿How do you call the mix of prep and nautical styles?
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>>18179580
prep is nautical, how foreign and new are you?
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>>18179413
>you have these? if so what size did you go with?
No i don't, i have been thinking about getting a pair of their double leather sole moccasins for house shoes.
I would email them for more info about sizing if they don't have an explanation on their webpage
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>>18179554
Just start with dark and classic colors only, and easy/casual items.
I bet if you just used chinos and polos/oxford shirts and a harrington jacket or something, then make a rule not to leave the house without a collar, you'd feel the new style to fit you in no time
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Wearing OCBDs feels so damn good
Time to replace every button down shirt in my closet with Oxfords.
Im never buying a shirt with a lined collar or cuffs again.
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>>18179554
>im afraid people will think im arrogant for dressing that way
brother i'm going to level with you, especially because you used to hang out with druggies - the person who will find you 'arrogant' because of dressing (appropriately) preppy is the person you don't want to waste your time on
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>>18179619
>Im never buying a shirt with a lined collar or cuffs again
Such hilarious infantile attitude
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>>18179637
Interlining only exists because men are too lazy to iron
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>>18179637
>Such hilarious infantile attitude
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>>18179637
Unlined shirts are just objectively more comfortable and more fitting for casual style.
Im on the same page as him, lined shirts just feel weird to wear now.
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>>18180280
>more comfortable and more fitting for casual style.
Sure, that's why saying
>Im never buying a shirt with a lined collar or cuffs again
Is absolutely fucking retarded
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>>18179608
i didnt quite understand that second line
>>18179631
thats a good point, thanks!
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Just ordered a vintage gloverall duffle, quite excited. Was looking for a medium weight winter coat
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>>18180306
By the rule? I just meant stop using t shirts, hoodies and such for a period of time and get used to always having a collar no matter how casual one, and before you know it; it will feel natural
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>>18180340
>hoodies
yeah i havent worn those for a while
>t-shirts
what about a plain white t-shirt under a buttoned shirt? and what about undershirts?
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>>18180343
>what about a plain white t-shirt under a buttoned shirt? and what about undershirts?
Yeah those are both completely fine, it's mostly about desensitization to how you feel and look in the mirror when 'dressing up'
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>>18180343
Undershirts are fine, I'd say they're vital for warm weather.

>>18180280
They are comfortable and versatile, you should have a couple shirts with stiffer collars and cuffs if you actually need to dress more formally. About 80% of my shirts are unlined/unfused at this point.

>>18179554
It takes a while for repeated behavior to become a habit. Dress that way for a couple of months and soon you won't even think about it, it will just be how you dress.
>>
>>18179175
cute doggo



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