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Happy Easter edition.
Monkey edition to return soon.

Post your bicycle related questions, whether it's about repairs, fit, buying new bikes, theory, practice, whatever!

Previous thread: >>1986708
>>
how do I crop a photo?
>>
hey bike fags, I'm looking at building a gravel bike, does anyone have experience with chink frames? in particular ican for carbon, or tiris for ti
>>
>>1988748
Downloaded off Google ain't got time to check
>>1988756
Check trace velo on YouTube he does deep dives into AliExpress specials
>>
>buying used carbon road bike from mid-2000s
am I retarted

>>1988756
you already know about chinertown forums, I take it
>>
>>1988838
Personally I'd avoid older carbon due to safety concerns but the more I learn about the material the less risky it seems. The material is very tough, and actually very repairable. More repairable than an aluminum frame.

However even if I didn't feel that way I'd still avoid it cuz they're usually so overpriced by dumb boomers. For me the best used bike type from that era would be a high end aluminum from cannondale/trek/specialized. Rimbrake Cannondales from 2010's are peak aluminum and some of the best bikes ever made.
>>
there needs to be an aliexpress containment thread
>>
>>1988838
:>mid 2000's carbon frame
I wouldn't worry about it, just inspect the frame regularly and start slow.

DESU I plan on getting a glued titanium+alloy lug bike soon from the early 90's.
Smart decision? probably not but man it's cool.
>>
>>1988840
>they're usually so overpriced by dumb boomers
I'm only considering it because I'm seeing prices that are comparable to the aluminum from that era. what were the higher-end Treks and Specializeds of the time btw? Cannondale I know fairly well.

>>1988871
I've seen a few very very tempting first-gen System Sixes and Felts with carbon molded onto aluminum to make the junctions, I think.
>>
>>1988872
>I've seen a few very very tempting first-gen System Sixes and Felts with carbon molded onto aluminum to make the junctions, I think.
Nice. I guess I have just had a good experience with my xc bike that is carbon seatstay with aluminum shock mounts and pivots(near the dropout).
Had some gnarly crashes on it and it's been fine.
I also have an ancient 2009 full carbon(except chainstays) all mountain(trail) bike that has been solid. Bought that one used and it's been down some blues and black at the local dh track.
>>
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>>1988872
Trek Alpha Aluminum 1.x
Where x is some number 1-5

Specialized Allez

Those are the only ones im personally familiar with. Everyone I've owned have been solid, quick bikes with decent components.

I would bet a carbon frame from that era would be a even quicker ride, though. If you see the price is right then do some research into inspecting carbon for damage and go for it, if you ask me.
>>
>>1988882
>That doesn't fit, you big dummy!
>>
>>1988897
wut
>>
>>1988908
Bottle doesn't look like it fits fully.
I could be wrong
>>
>>1988911
oh lol. i thought you were commenting on his bike fit.
>>
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i have just acquired this mid 70s malvern star step through for free! i have never restored a bicycle, but i have done a few cars. im not going to do paint and only make it mechanically good. where can i find information for doing a mechanical overhaul? additionally, where can i find information for oils and tools i might need? kind regards
>>
>>1988955
that's an extremely cheap department store bicycle.
It's never going to ride well. The parts to get it halfway there will be worth far more than the bike is now or ever will be.
It's not worth restoring or upgrading.

If you want a project, start with something better.

Giving it a basic service, and fixing overt problems, is a good idea, as total shitters are still bicycles.

RJ the bike guy on youtube is the best resource. Sheldonbrown.com
>>
>>1988955
>free!
yeah that's the fair price
>>
>>1988955
How much time are you going to spend de-rusting the rims, the crank, the hubs, etc? On a nice bike those parts would all be aluminium and they wouldn't rust.
>>
How are folding bikes for longer trips? (50miles/80km)
>>
my headset keeps getting loose. I'm kinda upset
what now?
>>
>>1988972
kill yourself
>>
>>1988968
they're not made for that at all, i'd only use a folding bike if the alternative was walking. that having said if a guy could go around the world on a penny farthing, you can do 80km on a folding bike if you really want to.
>>
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Two things:

1. Is 1mm clearance with the front chainring catastrophic? I changed from a 18mm JIS to a 14.5mm Nuovo Record ISO thinking it would = 19mm but it seems even tighter. I’m a bit confused why an 80s frame-set intended for Italian Components has such a tight clearance?

Only thing I can think of is that the frame seems to have 126mm dropouts and the Nuovo Record 6 speed is designed around 120mm frames? My knowledge of when frames changed sizes is pretty non-existent.

I can either source another 15.5mm Nuovo Record BB or go up to 18mm with a modern BB? Or I accept this frame isn’t designed for this groupset ?

2. I snapped a newish chain in the lower gear while pushing off at some lights while out of the saddle? Could it have been linked or was I unlucky / could have had the friction slightly wrong / wound too tight?
>>
>>1988955
usually the OP has links but OP of this thread is a faggot.
anon gave you rj and Sheldon. you'll also need park tool. instructions on how to fix everything with embedded videos. this link goes directly to the search bar
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help

I also like https://www.bikegremlin.com/
good chain oil recipe, good wheel building info, everything, really.

check if there's a bike coop near you: cheap parts, all the tools and work stands, staff can help you.
I wouldn't rebuild it but tuning the brakes and shifting, overhauling the bearings, new chain and brake pads, flush freewheel is worthwhile.
if the coop has some aluminum wheels that'd be good. otherwise scrape rust off the rims and go over with aluminum foil and coke/vinegar etc . steel rims instantly loose all friction with pads with a tiny amount of water but otherwise ok except weight.

that crank looks weird. it doesn't look like the hole with the nut is big enough for a square taper pulller to go in. maybe there's a cotter on the other side but if not it could be some obsolete thing nobody has anymore
>>
>>1988972
tighten it.

threadlocker or teflon tape might keep it tight
>>
What's the best kind of gatorskins I mean sorry GP5Ks?
>>
I have a question. Helmet. Pros and cons?
>>
>>1989015
if you want a helmet, get one.
if not, don't .

it sounds flippant, but that's honestly the best answer that can be given
>>
>>1988988
It was bad form im sorry
Resources:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help
www.meatspin.com
>>1989004
Oh Lord what's happening this year
>>
>>1988968
Worse in every way imaginable vs a normal bike, but at least you don't have to walk
>>
>>1988972
what is it?

service it, if that doesn't work, replace it

>>1988989
>threadlocker or teflon tape might keep it tight
nonsense
>>
>>1988972
threaded or threadless?
>>
>>1989015
>I have a question. Helmet. Pros and cons?
A major con is that helmets signal that cycling is dangerous, which discourages people from doing it, and having less people cycle makes cycling more dangerous.

Places with lower helmet use are usually the safe places to ride a bike.

Expectations of helmet useage are also an admission that no efforts will be made towards actually making you safe. Usually when someone gets mad at you for not wearing a helmet, they will also blame you for being dangerous, for riding a bicycle, while they drive a car (a safe and honest vehicle).

The push for road safety in general has led to bigger, heavier cars with huge pillars which obstruct vision and create fun hiding spaces for children all the way around them.

'Safety' as a concept is much like 'freedom'. People who champion it are usually malevolent.
>>
>>1988987
6 speed was for 126mm dropouts. The only 6 speed that fit 120mm frames was ultra-6 speed.
Nuovo record fits whatever frame you want IF you have the right BB.

I would worry about when you stand out of the saddle. If you see/feel the chainrings hitting the frame you need longer spindles.

Oh, and nice campy hubs btw. Some of my favorite.
>>1989004
conti's are overpriced in the year of 2024.
>>1988972
You didn't tighten something right.
>>1989015
not my problem.
No, seriously. There are valid reasons for both.
>>
I'm really paranoid about locking my bike up places, how can I make sure it doesn't get stolen? I've got a little amazon ulock, doesn't seem too secure though.
>>
>>1989090
I just don't ride to places. Kinda sucks desu but I love my bikes too much and paranoia runs in my blood.
I did do some research, and I found you want a POS bike, and 2 u locks or 1 chain+1 ulock.
Then you want non quick release axles, a cable lock(for helmet or one wheel).
You use 1 u lock or chain and go from rear wheel+seattube to object. Just make sure you grab a solid tube and the object.

OTOH I used to ride to middle school, high school, and college all with a semi POS and I freaking cable lock.
I think it boils down to location if your shit gets jacked.

I wish I wasn't paranoid about things I love.
>>
>>1989090
for how long will you be locking it? the three things i consider are how long, are there other bikes around, and what kind of neighborhood am i in. no lock is invincible, so consider the circumstances and assess the risk accordingly.
>>
How do I get into road racing and such if I don't have much money? It seems that a lot of the sport just boils down to being able to afford good gear.
>>
>>1989094
HAH
just ride bro.
I got mogged by many riders with less weight/better engines.
Your fitness matters so much more it's a joke. Well, as long as your bike is a road bike and not a 40lb bso.
>>
>>1989094
to kind of echo what >>1989095 said, just try and get a decent road bike and ride a lot. i know that personally, i like nice things and i like to work on things, so it was so easy for me to convince myself to buy nice parts and tinker with my bike a lot. that never helped me be a better racer though. not sure what your budget is, but if road riding and racing is something you really want to do, then you might need to make some sacrifices, save up, etc. then look for local rides put on by shops and/or clubs. get to know some folks. then if you join a club or team that's associated with a local shop, you'll often get discounts on stuff.

i remember when i was racing, there was a local dude who wasn't on a team, didn't have the nicest, newest bike, always had some random jersey, but the dude was a fucking workhorse. it was clear that he put the energy in.
>>
>>1989094
Oh, and ride with faster people. There were only three times I distinctively remember being in better shape while xc mtb racing.
One, was going from a rim brake hardtail to a FS hydro disk bike while riding more.
Another, was riding with faster people and pushing myself.
Lastly, was when I lost weight and trained everyday+went hard.(led to burnout).

There are fast people on 25-20lb road bikes. Just remember all the pre 2000 road riders, many were on 20lb or heavier bikes if you go further back. In the 60's that's with some crazy 53/43 chainring and 14-21 freewheels.
Monstrously fast.
>>
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>>1989094
just ride
>>
>>1989112
what's the little guy's name again?
>>
>>1989127
egan bernal
>>
>>1989112
>>1989127
Don Maximiliano Contreras

this old guy just grabbed his 20kg mountain bike and came in 2nd vs a bunch of lycrafags on 5kg bikes that cost as much as a car. what a champ.
>>
Can you remove stanchions from a bicycle fork like you can on a motorcycle?
I'm building a minibike and would rather reuse an old 16 inch fox I've got laying about than have to figure out home made front suspension
>>
>>1989134
https://www.sinembargo.mx/11-04-2018/3406550
don't buy upgrades, ride up grades
>>
Bike noob here. Looking to get back into riding, haven't done it since I was a young adult.

This shit good to go or na?
>>
am i retarded and just imagining things or are supple, flexible casing tires inferior for carrying a lot of weight due to tire deflection? system weight is like 145lbs dry, running a 41mm tire at 60/65 psi f/r. grocery shopping i will generally have around 30-40lbs on the front and the same or a bit less on the rear, just depends on the week.
but the only flex and instability i feel is from rear tire deflection, almost like it wants to hop around or something. just run a higher pressure...? i dunno. using rh tires.
>>
>>1989154
makes sense to me, 's why us fat bastards run higher pressures innit
>>
>>1989134
>>1989137
Haha holy shit I always thought this was just a funny picture of a little Hispanic dude. What a god
>>
>>1989154
I mean I'm as retarded as you, but isn't tire deflection a result of the casing plus pressure? If you feel like it's squirming then run higher pressure.
>>
>>1989155
but a thick and durable touring tire like a marathon plus is going to have way less deflection at the same pressure than a gravelking or something of the same size, no?
>>
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>>1988691
Ayo niggas. I need advice on a new bike. I just got a new job in a new city and I'm going to commute to work in a bike.
I don't know much about them besides how to ride them. What characteristics should I look for in a reliable bike?

The city has a bike rental system so I have already roamed the streets in my route to work. Everything seems very safe and straightforward. I don't need lots of speed nor go up steep hills.

If it matters: I am a 170cm (5'7), 70kg (like 150lb) manlet.

My budget would be like 300 usd. I am not in the US nor Europe so I wont be able to find most of your hipster trendy brands.

Thanks.
>>
>>1989154
not sure but the silca tire pressure calculator seems to reliably give the optimal tire pressure. it even takes into account type of tire and stuff. if you have an asymmetric tire setup you can just run it twice once for each tire.
>>
>>1989167
ya, even for like 250lb it gave me something like under 50 psi when i calculated
>>1989158
>casing plus pressure
ya that's why i'm thinking something with a thicker casing wont offer as much deflectioon as a light weight supple
>>
>>1989163
>I have already roamed the streets in my route to work
>I am not in the US
New York is in the US
>>
>>1989163
300 usd won't really get you anything worthwhile when buying new. I'd look into a used road bike, city bike, or whatever is available. Something with 28-40 mm tires, gears, and better than bottom of the barrel components. If it's very flat there, even a nice single speed bike would suffice.
>>
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>>1988691
Do I really have to abide by this rule?
>>
>>1989200
Maybe you don't, if you have a great dental insurance plan
>>
>>1989163

This sounds meme, but get a 90s mtb with no suspensinon fork, change tires, and you are set.

Or if roads are good and you want to go faster, a 90s road bike and change nothing.

Get one with a decent Shimano groupset, for ease of maintenance amd compatibility. 8-9sp is great.

I bought a Grisley Mega 40 mtb with full Deore LX back in 1997, and all works like new except for the fork i had to replace long ago.
>>
>>1989154
how the fuck is your system weight 65 kg? smH
>>
>>1989201
anon needs braces
>>
>>1989154
you need more tire pressure.
but I definitely don't have such problems at 100kg me+10kg bike+20kg load in the rear, using 28mm schwalbe marathons (greenguard).
>>
>>1989180
Yea by that logic a thicker tire won't, but you could also just increase the pressure doofus
>>
You guys are helpless retards. You don't need a tire pressure calculator, you just need to note what tire pressure you're at before you got a ride, then adjust by 5lbs at a time until it feels best to you. dial that shit in. If it's speed and not comfort you're after then you need to log data and evaluate results. you can do this with a wristwatch, paper and pencil, you don't need to buy an app or device.
>>
>>1989136
If it's a dual crown/triple tree DH fork then yes. The single crown forks I haven't tried, but they would be removable if you see some pinch bolts where the crown meets the stanchion.
I know some old forks had that.

DESU I would (for testing purposes only) use the stock bike wheel, hydro disks, and a voluminous e-bike rated tire.
E-bikes are basically just electric minibikes.
>>1989140
It's fine. Good choice if you want to ride almost any trail.
Just double check other brands, since many are having sales on new bikes. Particularly lower end cost ones like yours.
>>1989159
Correct. That's why you buy a touring/thick boi tire for heavy riders like me. I pretty much only ride on "durable" tires for road bikes and since my system weight is over 250lbs(bike+backpack+myself) it works okay.
On the road even with wide mtb tires I run close to max. Since many of them I can feel the tire squirming in corners on the front, or dragging on the back if I am lower.
>>1989163
Used bike with no suspension fork(unless your roads are actually 3rd world dirt trails). See what other commuters are using, and that will give you an idea.
>>1989200
Yes
I recommend used 22.2 MTB stems if you want rise. Those go up at anywhere from a 90 degree(compared to the classic quill -17) up to a 45 degree.
Around 20 bucks you can find one.

Another option is ride more and you might adapt to the current quill.
>>1989205
>he doesn't know
probably a 5'7 twink
>>
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>>1989200
It's more complicated than that.

The top of your fork steerer is threaded and keyed for the headset. This section is weaker. The minimium insertion line is a guess intended to place the wedge below the threaded section of your fork. Actual good practice is to service the headset and check this, not just follow the line.

Unfortunately many forks are threaded all the way down for every size of frame, and then cut, so the larger size frames can have like 10cm+ of threads.
Installing a normal stem 'safely' on many forks is impossible.
That's on a lot of nice bikes too. So does it really matter? Lots of bikes have dangerous stems with the wedge on the threads, even if it doesn't look like it.

The failure is real but it's not that common. Also even if the fork splits, the wedge will hold both sides together. Your steering won't completely fall apart. There's a failsafe.

The more important thing, often neglected, is to thoroughly clean and have a decent gob of grease around the wedge and bolt on install and not go absolutely ham tightening it. It's a good thing if your stem would rotate in a crash.
Also important is to just inspect the steerer of your fork occasionally, on every bike.

tldr:
>Do I really have to abide by this rule?
no
>>
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>>1989200
https://www.rivbike.com/blogs/grant-petersens-blog/flip-thwack-update

further reading

basically the minimium insertion line is bullshit. Follow it on this fork and it's still dangerous.
>>
>>1989202
this is good advice but it's slightly misleading to say 8-9 spd is great when 7 speed XT and tricolour are peak 90s groupset, and with thumbies and DTs, more reliable than 8/9 of the era.
>>
>>1989200
you can get a nitto technomic which has the most stack of any classic road quill, and it comes in any reach length you want. sort of expensive, though, but not too bad
>>
>>1989242
>>1989244
Thanks for the info! very interesting read although now I feel like buying a new fork hehe
>>
How do I stop my thighs from aching after 80km of cycling? That's only 2 days of my commute(20km one way).
>>
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Which electrolytes should I get?
Are capsules less effective than liquids?
>>
>>1989270
it strikes me as absurd to buy stuff like this when you can just run some salty watered down apple juice, or v8 in your second bottle, but i never go on rides longer than 30 miles so what do i know
>>
>>1989268
If this has been going on for weeks I would try riding a little slower/spinning more. You can try using more hamstring or glute muscles too, or stand more on climbs but I don't know your situation.
If it's a new thing you just haven't adapted to it yet.
>>
>>1989281
I mean I'm fine for the first two days but on Wednesdays I start feeling aches/soreness in my thighs
>>1989278
I commute daily and apple juice isn't healthy for you you wouldn't eat 20 apples a day but you could drink a gallon of juice a day
>>
>>1989284
dude how long is your commute that you are depleting yourself of electrolytes entirely
like, just eat before you go to work or eat at work
if you are that dehydrated there is probably something very wrong, or you are just overthinking it which is more than likely the case.
>>
>>1989284
lmao bro I was saying take two bottles for a long ride, one with watered down juice+salt thinking you're doing actually going on a fucking ride... buying them to get to work is full on retard shit. eat breakfast, and have a glass of water you dunce.
>>
>>1989289
>>1989290
It's just over an hour one way
I drink lots of water because of the weather (only when thirsty) but my piss is clear all the time.
>>
>>1989291
a liter of water should suffice for an hour of moderate work even in like 90f weather
>>
>>1989291
you probably should take magnesium supplements and increase your sodium intake if you're feeling like shit and sore/crampy. a mag/zinc combo is cheap and common. creatine also helps recovery and reduces soreness for me.
>>
>>1989291
Yeah but I drink 5 liters of water a day at minimum

>>1989298
Which one?
>>1989270
>>
>>1989299
just buy any magnesium/zinc supplement for $4 at the pharmacy, bro. a daily multivitamin is likely enough. an hour ride doesn't warrant any special cycling supplements.
>>
>>1989301
It's 2 hours a day and my piss is clear indicating that I'm over hydrating but I'm still thirsty and my t shirts are drenched both ways
>>
>>1989303
so are you actually having symptoms related to dehydration or are you making an issue out of nothing? eat nutrient and electrolyte dense foods before you leave home and at work, you don't need any whatever supplements, they are a waste of money.
>>
>>1989303
you're fine. i don't know what your current sodium intake is, but you could probably do with more salt since you're so active and drink so much. eat some sunflower seeds or something. salt your meals. eat healthy. lots of veg and fruit. nuts, seeds, dairy, eggs, meat, fish, beans, lentils, grains, etc. take a cheap daily multivitamin just in case.
>>
>>1989306
My thighs ache or get sore on the morning of day 3 of my commute after 80km and my sweat isn't salty
>>
>>1989310
the posts below have answered your question. thank you for posting on 4chan. have a great day.

>>1989281
>>1989306
>>1989309
>>
>>1988955
>steel is re-ACK!
>>
>>1989163
Number one concern is fit. A bike of the wrong size can really wreck you... or not. It depends but a poor fit can really hurt you. If the bike's too long it'll get your lower back. If it's too short it'll hurt your upper back. But sometimes long bikes hurt the upper back, too, especially on wider bars.
Number two concern is... basically everything else. The biggest upgrade is good brakes. The second biggest is appropriate tires. Knowing you can stop makes cycling safer, more fun, and faster. The third biggest upgrade is good pedals. Choose the utility upgrades you need: rack, mudguards, bottle cage, lights, so on. Suspension for city cycling is a meme.
>>
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Hi, I've got a 2011 Mongoose Fireball (stock pic)
We've been there and back, and I want to show it some love
It was converted to single speed, I'd like to revert it back to 8-speed
I don't have all the parts, so I'd have to buy new.
The parts, so far as I can tell are: SRAM SX4 / X4 Trigger
The only manual I can find calls for the HG30 8-speed, I was given a CS-HG31 cassette with the bike and told it's what came off it, but I don't have the loose 11tooth that goes with it.
The freehub has been slipping lately, I have no idea what it is/part number, to replace it
The derailleur hanger is still on the bike (I installed a single speed tensioner)

My questions are:
Is there a difference in cassettes, that effects fitment
These parts seem available on Ebay via china/taiwan are these knock-offs?
How do I source a freehub, is it replaceable or repairable? or are these fairly generic?
It's got cable brakes and 160mm rotors: Will ebay (MT200?) Shimano hydraulic kits fit, worth it, knock offs?
- (Happy to buy from any reputable '.com.au' vendor, if parts available)

A bike shop once upgraded my quick release axles, with TranzX skewers, that seem stronger, after I was concerned about wheel retention with the down facing rear drop outs, the 2014 went to horizontal drop outs and bolt on axle. I'm assuming i'm person #3096 asking 'can I change to bolt on axle?'

Thank you for reading long post
I know it's not an expensive/brand bike, it's sentimental
>>
>>1989362
>Is there a difference in cassettes, that effects fitment
all the chinese shimano sram 8 speed and under ones are compatible
>These parts seem available on Ebay via china/taiwan are these knock-offs?
cheapest microshift stuff will work, you can find the rd's alone for under $15 us on amazon, probably wont be much more aud from aliexpress
>How do I source a freehub, is it replaceable or repairable? or are these fairly generic?
prolly just gonna be some whatever shimano 8sp freehub body, shud come off via 9/10mm hex bolt after you remove the axle
>It's got cable brakes and 160mm rotors: Will ebay (MT200?) Shimano hydraulic kits fit, worth it, knock offs?
just spend 25 bucks on a compressionless housing kit and be done with it

>can I change to bolt on axle?'
if you tighten the skewers properly your wheel will not fall out.
>>
>>1989244
>Bada bing etc.

Lol
>>
>>1989284
Just eat food, you don't "need" electrolyte tablets to ride your bike to work
>>
>>1989245
You might be right. I never had 7sp XT, but as a kid i road raced old 90s 600 and 105 and they were great.

I still prefer 8-9sp (specially 9) tho, but no strong opinions here.
>>
anyone have a good idea how to reattach these old cannondale cable guides? i have them, but the pins have snapped off. obviously the new metal ones would be good but they are also $43 shipped.
>>
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Is $300 a fair price for a lightly used 105 gruppo, sans cassette and chain? Coworker upgraded his bike
>>
>>1989399
Double sided tape.
Glue.
>>
>>1989399
>>1989440

3m VHB double sided tape actually would work good but i think an adhesive would likely fail. dont lay the roll of tape down on its side after you cut off a piece or dust and debris will stick to the side of it.
>>
>>1989399
You could use a little bit of epoxy, make sure to clean both surfaces.
>>
>>1989457
if he's going to use epoxy he should place the guide where he wants it and trace it out with a razor blade. he can then tape off around it with masking tape and scrape off the paint and scuff the bare metal. i'd cut scores or scuff the mating surface of the guide as well. i still think good quality vhb tape would work well, they use that stuff in the aircraft industry as a permanent adhesive and i have personal experience using it in the manufacturing of signs that are rated to withstand hurricane force winds.
>>
>>1989399
>>1989459
actually wtf am i talking about.. you know what a pop rivet is? they make plastic ones. they're pretty useful if you're a tinkerer. metal ones, too.
>>
>>1989460
here you go.. these kind you just tap down with a hammer and snip flush
>>
>>1989439
Check ebay and aliexpress prices for new and compare.
>>
>>1989460
Neat
>>
>>1989462
>aliexpress

b-but those ones arent shimano right
>>
>>1988691
Alright I have never done wheel stuff
Spoke wrench, to true wheels
Tighten the side I want to pull in
Loosen the side to counteract the side I tighten
Repeat for all affected areas

Am I correct in this? I am smooth brained

Secondarily, I have a wheel for rim brakes and there’s just a spot where it’s not buckled, but the rim is just thicker there or something, the entire rim edge is perfectly straight but that face on one spot is like a bump on the braking surface. Do I want to heat and hammer that in, grind it flat, or just leave it and deal with the inconsistency
>>
>>1989482
>Alright I have never done wheel stuff
>Spoke wrench, to true wheels
>Tighten the side I want to pull in
>Loosen the side to counteract the side I tighten
>Repeat for all affected areas
Yeah. If most of your spokes are at a good tension I would do a quarter tight+ quarter loose on the opposite one. If the tensions whacky or loose I just tighten the one side.
For hop if it's a diameter is high tighten that area, if it's low/sunk towards the hub loosen. When lacing/setting up a wheel I start with side to side, then focus on hop, then back to side to side truing, etc.

>Am I correct in this? I am smooth brained
Pretty sure I got you beat.
Took me a while but once you see it it's easy. Well, until you round nipples. Then it's "done".
>Secondarily, I have a wheel for rim brakes and there’s just a spot where it’s not buckled, but the rim is just thicker there or something, the entire rim edge is perfectly straight but that face on one spot is like a bump on the braking surface. Do I want to heat and hammer that in, grind it flat, or just leave it and deal with the inconsistency
That could be where the rim was "pinned and welded" or just welded. Generally I just ride and I either stop noticing it or it goes away. If it was very bothersome I would grind it down slowly. Higher quality rims have better QC and that "bump" isn't there.
>>1989467
I don't know. Could look at reviews.
>>
>>1989461
>>1989460
ok wtf that's probably the best solution. i thought any adhesive would probably turn out kinda fucked.
>>
>>1989490
Just remember bikes were literally epoxied together for 20-30 years back in the day and they lasted a fairly long time. Aluminum to aluminum would be a great bond without any fear of galvanic corrosion, which generally was what killed vintage glued bikes.
>>
>move saddle forward
>go for ride
>slides back 15mm
I took it off, rails don't look crimped, the sandwich plates seem to be contacting fine, and it was more than fucking tight enough. Didn't happen with a different (zero offset) seatpost so I guess it's the seatpost...? But this didn't happen with other saddles that I can remember with this setback seatpost, though. Maybe hammer the top plate of what holds the rails a bit flatter? Maybe it could have gotten bent from overtightening. I'd just be afraid of it breaking since it's alu

Also am I retarded for thinking about buying a b17 narrow? It'd be going on a different bike than the aforementioned one, something with a higher trail and more upright position, so I'm thinking the 145mm width over the 130mm I usually go for probably will be okay and considering the hammock-like nature. I dunno. Can't find any affordable used ones either.
>>
>>1989501
>>1989501
clean everything and put a very light film of grease on all of the mating parts and the threads of the bolt.

Normal service job for a bicycle. Should fix it.
>>
>>1989501
sometimes the rail clamps are directional, are you sure you put it back on in the correct direction?
>>
>>1989507
Think so, wasn't paying much attention when I took it apart but saw the arrow indicating direction so it'll at least go back together correctly.
>>1989502
will try
>>
All the non drive side nipples on my rear wheels get loose from time to time so I have to re tighten them the wheels is kinda true but still has a minimal wobble any idea what's happening? Im to stupid to true a wheel so I just tight the loose spokes
>>
how do i waterproof my junker rain bike? it lives outdoors and gets ridden and then locked up in a bike rack in the rain all day. ideally i'd only service this heap of shit once a year.
>>
>>1989518
dip the chain, cassette, headset, derailleurs, brake levers, shifter, hubs, and spoke nipples in shellac
>>
RD won't shift smoothly between two cogs but shifts fine on others
theres no way to adjust shift only between two cogs right
>>
>>1989524
is it the same two cogs regardless of the FD position? assuming the hanger isn't bent, it's possible that the out of index is only noticeable when the chainline isn't perfectly straight
>>
>>1989523
more concerned about water getting inside the headset, bb and hubs.
>>
>>1989526
use a tarp. humidity will still be a concern, but I guess regreasing headset and hubs is a once a year concern even at a damp place.
>>
>>1989525
not sure but chainline should be even more slanted when used with other front cog
>>
>>1989526
Lots of grease, as well I recommend some kind of coating on everything that’s a bit hydrophobic. I use rainX windshield spray on my bike and found a lot less water gets into the BB
For long term outdoors storage, just cover it in something. If it’s a frame which can corrode easily, spray the inside of the frame down with oil.
>>1989524
Is it your first 2? That’s usually cable tension if it’s the first two. Not enough cable tension to fully pull from 1-2 but then when there’s tension it’ll pull through the rest fine.
If it’s two others, it’s usually the hanger.
>>
>>1989531
no it's 2-3 or 3-4 don't think anything happened to the hanger
>>
>>1989531
could it be grime in the shifter
>>
>>1989532
in this situation, turning the barrel adjuster ¼ to ½ turn towards the gear it isn't catching usually works for me. check that there's no slack in the cable when the derailleur is unsprung, too, just to be sure
>>
>>1989537
yeah but then it will go off index elsewhere
>>
>>1989538
not usually, in my experience. you can always undo it
>>
I have an idea for an invention. so imagine a hot glue gun, but instead of glue sticks it takes wax sticks. and you sort of use it to apply molten wax directly to your chain like you would a drip lube.
>>
>>1989571
you could probably do that now with birthday candles or something
>>
>>1989578
or a crayon even, good thinking
>>
Renewing a junkyard bike into a singlespeed/Minimum Viable Bike. Would a bicycle as basic as that function well enough with a single front brake? I know that some states and cities require fixies to have a front brake, but would that also be Good Enough for a bike with a freewheel/freehub?
>>
>>1989584
depends on the rider, but yeah. most of the braking power comes from the front wheel. if you arent experienced you can lock up the front and flip over in an emergency situation or something though.
>>
>>1988691
Is listening to music on a speaker while biking ethical? I think it is because music at a reasonable volume is still quieter than an average car going by.
>>
>>1989610
i don't know if you're white, but I know for sure you're not black
>>
>>1989610
obviously depends on the volume, like you said, but that's so subjective. and of course i don't think it's very disruptive in the city, but on a bike path, MUP, or trail in a quiet area it would be annoying. i would just personally never do it at all because i'm not a piece of shit.
>>
>>1989524
So you can't get indexing.

usually means the hanger is bent or the cable has excessive friction somewhere which is causing clutching

before recabling you can unbolt the inner, slide it back until the damaged clamped part is just about to enter the housing, pop all the housings off their stops on the frame, and try to drip some lube into the ends, and work the housing around to get it in there.
Also clean the guide under the bottom bracket and make sure it's tight.

That will resuscitate fucked cables.

As for the hanger you say you don't think anything happened to it... well it's so easy to bend and you not notice. Try to actually eyeball how straight it is. You can often get away with it not being perfectly straight but you're clearly not so well worth investigating. If it's a seperate hanger also check that it's tight.
>>
>>1989462
Yea dude I did check, all sources indicate it's fair. But I come here for the real talk, there's so many fake ali express ads out there. Plus prices on new is different from used. Basically asking is this a don't miss it kind of deal or naw?
>>
>>1989664
50% of new price is fair for me on lightly used items.
That's always been my take. Honestly I don't look at modern groupo prices since I am a retrogrouch.
>>
>>1988838
>am I retarted
Probably. Do you know how to test carbon? Is it actually good for your use? Is the price good?
>>
>>1989015
If you have to ask, wear one. Depends on your traffic and riding if it's important.


>>1989079
>Places with lower helmet use are usually the safe places to ride a bike.
This causality is weird, but lets break it down. If you've got big fast american cars within touching distance, it's a good idea, but driver behavior will override anything you can do. If it's places with slow, physically separated polite traffic like the netherlands on mamacharis, it's relatively safe. If it's any condition where aero matters, it's automatic. If you're pushing your physical limits, it's automatic.

TL/DR.
Helmetless is for slow, boring, riders not in contact with car traffic. Helmets are for fast, aggressive riding.

> 'Safety' as a concept is much like 'freedom'. People who champion it are usually malevolent.
I feel bad for whatever evil fuckers you're around.
>>
>>1989094
Draft a faster person with lots of money in your size. In all meanings of the word. Offer domestique or sexual favors if you're really hardcore.
>>
>>1989140
Lets check specs:
Suntour XCM 30. Lockout. Coil.
Basic wheels
Basic AL frame
Atlus 2x8 drivetrain.
Cheap Tektro hydrualic discs

600.

There's a price premium for the Trek brand. It's about the cheapest new bike you'd try for any real offroad on, weakest point is the shock. It's also servicable enough for a general purpose short ride and commuter, but on the heavy side for that.


>>1989154
More weight needs to run higher pressure. This is basic physics.
>>
>>1989163
>What characteristics should I look for in a reliable bike?
CHEAP. NO SHITTY PARTS. NO WALMART GARBAGE. UNATTRACTIVE TO THIEVES>

You're thinking used. You're thinking shitheap hybrids and mountain bikes you can convert. You need portage, but that's not absolutely critical. You want good condition because you're a meathead poorfag and can't start off with that much repair.
>>
>>1989268
Is your fit set up right?
>>
>>1989584
Considering that fixie retards are literally throwing away brakes, why not run a rear as well, or go with a fixed rear?
>>
>>1989610
it's fine if you are like on the highway or something, back country roads and stuff. but i think it's kinda shitty to do it in densely populated areas.
>>
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Does anyone make bag supports like pic rel, but for the front? My handlebar bag sags enough with weight to rub on the front tire, but I really don't need the rack on there for just a small bar bag. Otherwise I'm just going to make my own, I just know it won't be as clean as something you could buy, probably.

Also I saw something on a bikeforums post about a small (I could have sworn it was an RH front rack but I guess not) rack that was like the size of the dudes hand who was posting it, but I can't for the life of me remember who made it or what it was called. It was a super tiny randonneur-like rack.
>>
>>1989688
I purchased the Bagman Universal Bar Rack through Carradice. I’ve only tried it on 26 and 25.4 bars with the spacers and have found the mount slips under weight (website says it can take 6kg).

I don’t know whether I had that weight but I imagine I could try things to increase the friction with the smooth bar surface and metal clamps. I’d say this isn’t really designed for small bar bags due to the drop.

I think Nitto used to sell a handlebar support which was probably suited to smaller handlebar bags but I’m not sure. The design was essentially a steel bar that wraps around the stem to sit between the bar bag.
>>
>>1989689
Yep, looks like the F-15 has been discontinued. I have some hollow steel tubing I could use to make something, and maybe I can use the clamps of some aero bars I have possibly. At most my bag weighs 2kg and that's pushing it so it doesn't need to hold a lot.

Maybe a strut from the crown of your fork welded to the front would help? Idk though, looks like it'd have to be a pretty long run so it'd have to be kind of thick to combat springy-ness. But yeah, with my tiny ass bike the drop would be too much I think, unless it was just rotated way outward.
>>
Look up “jack the rack” and blatantly copy it
>>
i need a road bike for like 500 euros man pls
>>
>>1989730
decathlon
>>
Look for used bikes online ($500 for this)
>>
>>1989738
>forte made rims
neat. I know performance bike used to carry them and their flat pedals are pretty good.
Looks like a nice buy.
>>
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i was thinking of buying clip on fenders for my bike, but i realise it already has built in hidden mounting points for full fenders which are obviously better. can i buy just any random pair? i think i should get narrow racing ones at least for clearence in between the fork and seatstays, and underneath the rim brakes.
>>
>>1989688
At that point, why not just a basket?
>>
>>1989772
go as large as you can go for the most clearance between the tire and the fender, you can always bend and shape an aluminum fender
>>
>>1989772
full fenders are only "obviously better" if you "obviously" don't need the clearance and toe strike is "obviously" a non issue

also full fender struts can often require bending and twisting and trimming and eyelet standoffs to install properly. this isn't brain surgery but it's also not really fun if you don't have a dremel or a saw and a firmly anchored hard metal bar and things of that nature. if your fragile male ego can handle it I recommend just taking it to a bike shop because they'll have several different products they can look and sorta eyeball before picking the right one and doing it right. that assumes you have competent bike shops near you that cater to bike commuters, of course
>>
>>1989775
>full fenders are only "obviously better" if you "obviously" don't need the clearance and toe strike is "obviously" a non issue
i meant better in terms of rain protection, i've never had a road bike bike before so not that familiar with toe overlap, hope it won't be that bad. i have access to a lbs' workshop and tools, but they don't really have the right fenders lying about as they mostly cater to old dutch bikes
>>
>>1989773
still requires the rack I'm using, which I'd like to move away from. Also a wald 137 will not fit nicely between my bars without my hands rubbing in the drops.
Anyway I am getting there with making some kind of mount, just need to make a trip to the hardware store and get some tubing, the stuff I had was too thick.
>>
>>1989778
shorter wheelbases and clipless pedals make it a bigger problem, it really depends on the bike

I have used several different of the most popular brands of full (bolted into eyelets), "semi-full" (rubber thingies grasping seatstays and forks), and simple seatpost type fenders and while this usually gets people riled up when I say it, going from nothing to ass saver style is like 90% of the goodness of a full length asphalt-scraping ultra giga fender 9000 with almost none of the inconvenience. I cannot for the life of me understand why people think full fenders are some kind of miracle product. if you're going like 1/2 a mile at a slow pace, maybe that's true. if you have a ride of any real distance, and you're not going granny speeds, mud and grit are going to get on your drivetrain, your feet, and your lower legs, there is simply no getting around it

by all means try it out, but if you start to get annoyed by the reduced clearance or other problems, just remember seatpost style is still an option. I use a zefal swan currently
>>
>>1989688
It was jack the bike rack
>>
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>>1989786
Too tall, unfortunately. I only have about 160mm.
This is what I was thinking of, but it's centerpull only.
>>
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>>1989688
These are a thing (and very cheap). Might work well clamped on the head tube.

The word you're maybe looking for is decaleur.

>>1989788
there are a number of racks like that, commonly used with p-clamps, from nitto
https://global.bluelug.com/bicycle/rack.html?p=2&product_list_order=high_to_low
>>
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>>1989788
this is what you want right?

There are aliexpress versions of this and you can attach any of them including the one in your pic, with p-clamps
Attached with p-clamps it's not really gonna be adequitely stiff to support anything solo but anything you're hanging off the bars will be fine.

https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-bike-front-rack.html?
>>
>>1989782
>still requires the rack I'm using, which I'd like to move away from
>>1989804
>>1989805
not a decaleur either, i don't have a large bag. just want a bag support.
i mean shit i could just cut up a fender and run that over where the bag sits since it's just lightly grazing if i wanted
>>
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is this cassette worn out?
help me /n/ pls
>>
>>1989853
Here is indicators
>worn out chain rides okay, new chain skips
That's how I know. If it skips in certain gears you can use the other ones, or just replace it.
If the worn out chain skips and the new chain skips she is toast.
>>
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>>1989843
if you are not a snob chinks sell these canti racks for cheap. If it's not supporting the bag weight I feel like this should easily be enough for what you want. Probably quite easy to mod it to be even lighter.
>>
>>1989856
yeah you cant really find out until you need to change your chain. so keep using it until its 0.5% worn, then when you change it to a new chain you will know if the casette is worn or not by whether the chain is skipping.
>>
Are people with boost spacing gravel frames, buying MTB rims / wheels or is there some weird subset of 700C boost wheels?
>>
What do you use a drink to stay hydrated/etc while riding? I like to drink electrolyte drinks or BCAA drinks but I'm not sure how much they really help. I don't think I want to get as serious as eating those gel blocks or like syrup drinks. I use the BCAAs/etc for work/etc too to stay hydrated.

Is there a best brand to look for or do you have a favorite to buy from?
>>
>>1989866
it doesn't really matter unless you're doing some kind of x-treem ultra-marathon shit and sweating your guts out for hours. water is fine. carbs are nice. water plus carbs can be convenient. BCAA is basically placebo, the only reason to use that shit is if you're doing a keto meme diet and you want to minimize muscle loss while starving yourself for days
>>
>>1989857
I have fashioned something out of some clip on aero bar mounts and some 1/8" steel rod, it seems like it should keep the bag from touching the tire. It's like what I posted >>1989688
just not as clean and neat looking. $3 for the rod, so nbd.
>>1989866
water and bring salty/carby foods for longer rides. there is no reason to buy meme supplements.
>>
>>1989860
>boost
I am getting too old for this shit.
>>1989866
Regular water since I don't ride for more then 3--4 hours. On a hard ride where I sweat a lot I come home and have a banana and a electrolyte drink.
>>
>>1989867
Yeah I know they're placebo-y but they can have a good effect if you think they work, you know? I still like them at a minimum level of "it makes the water taste good/different" (even though I have no prob drinking plain water either). Guess I'll just keep buying what I buy or just buy random ones here and there.
>>
>>1989866
I put table salt and lite salt (potassium salt) in my bottles at the same ratio as gatorade. also some drink powder and sugar
>>
>>1989870
>they can have a good effect if you think they work
what do you mean by "work", like yeah your body might pick up some of those aminos and use them like any other aminos you'd get from eating actual food, but you just made your water taste like ass, and you spend money on this powder, and the supplement industry is barely regulated so who knows what else is in that shit, plus you're most likely giving money to heavily corrupt organizations located in utah or florida (supplement-controlled states) who fund christofascist groups. there's a lot of reasons not to use BCAAs and almost zero reasons to use them
>>
>>1989873
Woke up on the wrong side of the bicycle huh

Don't tell you don't understand how placebos "work", it is a well documented fact. But I suppose you are right overall.
>>
>>1989874
just remember there is basically no financial or penal incentive for supplement companies NOT to lie to you about the quality of their shit because they can do anything they want thanks to orrin hatch. most of it is made in factories in china using bird feathers from slaughterhouses, and the nasty taste is in large part caused by the residue of the powerful chemicals they use to dissolve the feathers in a hot bath before spray drying to create a powder. you're basically saying, I don't wanna get my nutrients from actual food, I'd rather drink a crude extract of very specific nutrients, along with god knows what else, because it came in a $30 plastic tub with a picture of muscle arms on it

just eat meat. or hummus if you're into the vegan thing. BCAAs are a scam
>>
Found this locally for $250, 2017 Trek FX 2.

Anyone have experience with these models? Good price?

They are marketed as a commuter/fitness hybrid
>>
>>1989876
Whoops, pic related
>>
>>1989877
seems a fair price for a quality shitter. the terrorist casio of bikes
>>
>>1989877
idk if i would pay 250
maybe 150
fine shitter like the other guy said
>>
>>1989879
$150 is ridiculous, your bike market must be way different from mine. where I live there's a price floor around $300 for bikes in fully functional, non-deathtrap condition. assuming that thing has been in use and maintained, $250 is a fair final price. $150 if it's been in a basement and all the rubber needs to be replaced
>>
>>1989877
Doesn't have a front suspension so it might be hard going on anything that isn't a "normal" city road/sidewalk.
>>
>>1989880
yeah, plenty of entry level hybrids/mtbs in running condition for ~$150 in my state. but it's still an entry level hybrid that's almost a decade old, no racks either which i tend to see pretty frequently installed on cheap hybrids.
honestly i make offers based on the assumption that things have not been maintained because people do not take care of their things.
if he offers $150 and finalizes it at $200, that's pretty okay i think.
>>
>>1989878
>>1989879
>>1989880
>>1989882
>>1989883
Thank you fellas for the feedback. Much appreciated! I think I might test run and get it. Make an offer for it like the anon said see where it goes.
I will mainly use it on paved trails and city riding. Thanks again!
>>
Any of the major commercially available carbon road frames noticeably tougher/more durable than the industry average? Hard to get a straight answer on this desu, though it does sound like Time might be on to something.
>>
>>1989886
the reason you won't get a straight answer is that it's hard in practice to separate manufacturing and materials choices from quality control. the lower end stuff can often be tougher because it has to be overbuilt to make up for the lower grade fibers and the lower precision manufacturing processes. but quality control cuts both ways. and then there's all the wacky stuff that happens on the higher end that makes things hard to compare. like how would you compare a supersix hi-mod to a time vectran frame or a look flax fiber frame? where would a regular consumer even begin?

this is why a lot of people just ragequit and buy metal frames even if they're demonstrably worse.
>>
>>1989853
I'm seeing a majority of square teeth here. the ones that aren't are shaped funny because they're sculpted for Shimano HyperGlide which assists shifting.
it's a terrible picture but I'd call that cassette good. what makes you think it's bad? are you having drivetrain issues?
>>
is there an optimal way to route housing for bar end shifters? just the biggest, straightest loop you can get away with without it being egregious?
>>
>>1989941
I've run bar end shifters with every possible routing option from having the housing completely detached from the bar to the other extreme of having them under tape almost all the way to the stem. With modern housing, slick cable, and friction shifting I never had any problem with the full wrap that should in theory create the most drag, but without that ideal setup I think the safest bet is to have the housing run under your bar tape for a few inches then pop out where the drops start to bend upwards.
>>
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>>1989942
yeah, i had it coming out a bit after the drop began and it was kind of fucking annoying with bar bags and stuff as well as being like the optimal place for my hands in the drops. i was wondering if i could do nearly the full wrap and have it come out like left side pic rel so the bend isn't too too sharp leading towards the downtube. right side is how it was before.
it's friction, micro ratcheting friction but yeah.

i guess if you were able to do the full wrap without issue, i'll try it. worst case i just change it, nbd.
>>
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Well well, been riding on these wheels for over a year now without issues. Hit a MASSIVE pothole a few weeks ago, like 6" deep and those scratches on the sidewall are from it. I checked the bike after and it seemed like just cosmetic damage. Now I've been riding a few weeks after that incident and just noticed a crack in the wheel.

The roads I ride on are... well they're shitty to say the least (I live in New Orleans) and some of the roads here are absolutely a fucking nightmare to ride on. I do my best to avoid the major potholes but when you're riding at 25mph+ sometimes they just appear right in front of you and you can't even avoid them they're so massive and span the entire road in some places. Anyways just riding on the shitty roads here and the vibrations must have caused this crack to appear.

Is there a way to fix this or is my wheel completely fucked? It seems like it will continue to spread unless I find a way to fix it but I have no idea how to even do that, maybe some epoxy glue or something and just spread it around / inside the crack?
>>
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>>1989950
>epoxy glue or something and just spread it around / inside the crack

No, it's destroyed at this point and there's no practical fix short of replacing the rim/wheel.
>>
>>1989950
how have you not died already?
>>
>>1989950
I don't trust that at all, dude.
I have no idea, but it is possible to weld aluminum, and maybe that could fix it . but the fix would probably cost more than a new rim so I wouldn't even bother with that . I don't think epoxy is trustworthy or anything else.
>>
>>1989950
buy same rim so you can reuse spokes and hub
>>
>>1989901
>this is why a lot of people just ragequit and buy metal frames even if they're demonstrably worse.
Ahaha yep this is pretty much where I'm at right now. Not looking for anything Gucci just a modern road bike that'll take 32s, comes with modern style hoods/bars, will take a bit of a beating, simple shit. But the "nice" aluminum stuff isn't much cheaper than lower end carbon.
>>
>>1989163

>>1989188
>>1989199
>>1989202
>>1989233
>>1989326
>>1989682

Thanks for your suggestions. I bought this patchwork
""mountain"" bike for 270 usd. I dont like the color nor the stickers, but whatever, it is cheap. And the guys who sold this to me seem legit and honest; they own a small bike repair shop.

The front suspension is good because I don't plan to ride it like a little girl. They had other cheap bike, very pretty, dutch style but with thin wheels. I want a little more than a stroll in the park.

Now. The position when I'm riding it feels weird, I feel like I lean forward too much. Is this normal? I don't mind for now but I have to get used to it.

https://imgur.com/a/8j8YbrG
>>
>>1989969
>Now. The position when I'm riding it feels weird, I feel like I lean forward too much. Is this normal? I don't mind for now but I have to get used to it.
Ride and get used to it. Leaning over is better for efficiency at higher speed which you will notice on a descent, that if you lower your head and torso towards the bar you will feel less wind.
That bike is setup like older mtb's where they have a normal top tube and longer stem. Totally fine and helps reduce the front wheel rise when climbing steep off road trails.

Once you get more riding under your belt you can learn and try different stems or bars.
For normal riding it's a fine setup. For hardcore stuff most go to a wide boi bar and shorter stem.
>>
>>1988691
When I grab my rim and pull it back and forth the wheel flexes and touches the brake pads. Does that mean I need to tighten the spokes or am I tripping?
>>
>>1989969
Are you trolling or did you really just spend 300 dollars on a walmart bike from 20 years ago?
>>
>>1989950
Take it to a shop that specializes in carbon repair. Depending on where you live it might be more economically viable to get a new rim. Chink carbon rims are no worse
>>
>>1989684
>why not run a rear [brake]
weight reduction + 1 rim brake that I can't tell if it's linear pull or dual pivot is less to think about over 2
>or go with a fixed rear
not conditioned enough + don't feel like spending even more money to turn it into more than an emergency bike
also contemplating removing the kickstand because I learned a cool trick to park a crusty frame right beside the curb

this is also all more practice before I commit to further mutilating up the multiple 26er BSO frames I have
>>
>>1990032
If you only run a front brake on a bike with a freewheel you risk locking up the front wheel while descending or cornering.
>>
>>1990026
that kind of thing works better on frames than on rims which are expected to spin at high speeds

anyway all respectable (western) carbon wheelsets these days have a warranty against failure from stuff like potholes and rocks, if you have to take your rim off and walk it to the crabon patch guy and wait for him to patch it up and then rebuild your wheel, and pay for the trouble, was it really worth the $300 you saved over buying something from dt swiss or zipp or bontrager?
>>
>>1990022
I did.

>>1990002
>For normal riding it's a fine setup
Thanks, is all I need.
>>
>>1990021
is the RIM flexing, or are the bolts inside the hub not tight against the bearings and allowing movement ("play" in the bearings)?
>>
So I recently got a used bike with Magura hydraulic disc brakes, and a city bike handlebar.
I would like to install a racing bike handlebar with combined shift/brake levers. 3x8 gears.

What are my options?
Searching online, it seems hydraulic brake levers are generally compatible with all disc brakes (except for different fluids). but are there even shift/brake levers for hydraulic brakes? Should I just sell the Magura brakes and get a different lever/brake set?
>>
>>1990108
there are no FD brifters for more than a 2x and no RD brifters for less than a 10 speed. your best bet is probabably hylex brakes and di2 barcons
>>
>>1990108
Probably nothing is going to be worth it. Best bet probably can be converting to 2x10 with used stuff. Using a mtb rear derailleur if you really need the gearing.
>>
>>1990128
>>1990115
I'm not insisting on the gearing or disc brakes or hydraulic brakes. It's simply what the bike came with, and since I don't care all that much, my main criteria at the moment are low cost and low upgrade effort.

Considering that it's not going to be a simple "buy new brifters connect the cables/tubes and be done with it", I'll probably use it as it is for a while and see if I come across some good parts I can get for cheap.

Thanks for the infos.
>>
>>1990130
hylex and barcons is actually relatively simple compared to most other options, especially if you were thinking about changing to rim brakes
>>
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Anyone ever try these rose branded racks? It's like 38 euros cheaper than the tubus logo evo, and 70 euro less than the cosmo. specs are all the same, and i assume that these are all under rated due to german law and not wanting them to be certified or liable when people carry children and something happens. and i WILL be using all 26kg. what is the spring thingy on top for?
https://www.rosebikes.com/rose-grand-tour-cromo-luggage-rack-351469

But this way I can get a Tara and rear rack for 122 euro which is what I'd be paying for a Tara alone from a US retailer.
Or should I get the Duo? I have inner and outer mid fork mounts and strength is priority.
>>
>>1990148
no experience with thi steelisreal bs, my shitty alu racks never failed. but this one looks really good, and those optional frame clamps also look really good. The springy thing on top can be used to bring around your newspaper if you're an 80yo euro, i used it to carry my basketball or the occasional light box, it may be uselles on tours if you use a top box or bag, but it's not a bad thing to have just as a necessity,
But aren't you going to pay import duty though? so 42+16+ I dont know?
>>
>>1990163
nah, vat/duty included in price. it's just 20 euro shipping with both racks.
i think steel is a good bet maybe just based on experience, i have a light duty stainless front rack (no lowrider mounts) that i regularly load 2x the weight capacity and it's been fine.
the clamps look like the poly coated p clamps soma includes with their racks, so if they're like those then they should be good. but i don't really need them.
>>
The strength of a rack is a lot like those toothpick bridges you have to build in engineering class, it can hold a shitload of weight perfectly upright under the correct circumstances, but you bump it sideways or tilt it a little and the max capacity drops to like 30% before it risks crumpling. “Built for abuse” is way stronger than “10 lbs more max load”
>>
>>1990108
Keep in mind there are no financially sensible options.
>>
>>1990130
Consider non racing bars that are mtb diameter that meet your needs. EG butterfly bars.
>>
>>1989969
You really should have checked this shit with us anon. Oh well. Hope for the best, and don't upgrade. If shit breaks, try for another bike.
>>
>>1990108
not worth the money or effort. just install a narrow flat handlebar, or corner bar knockoff if you want the drop bar feeling, and keep the shifters and brake levers.
>>
you can get 1x11/12 deore groupsets from aliexpress for about £60-80

ummed and ahhed this morning because a bog standard 92 rockhopper was on sale and i thought about the memes but decided 26in doesnt really make sense on grounds on 26in 11speed wheelset and 26in low rolling resitance tires are a niche.

my plan was then thinking hmmm, maybe you buy a broken hybrid frame that uses deore stuff already, and then it should be quite straightforward to build into a 1x11 - is this correct? my reasoning being the spacing should still be 135mm, and the components being deore already
>>
>>1990243
spacing will be 135mm on either, but 8-10sp is not compatible with 11 afaik, so you are building a new wheel for either. i'd just get the rockhopper and settle with 10sp since the comp at least came with lx stuff, unless by bog standard you mean the one that comes with gs whatever. can't find a catalog.
i think the good thing about the mtb is that you can probably fit anything up to a 2.2" tire, but as far as lower rr and supple you're probably only looking at rh tires and gravelkings maybe. but if clearance is not a priority then i guess find a solid 90s hybrid with 700c wheels.
but if low rr is a priority and your cross shopping 90s mtbs and hybrids, what exactly are you trying to do? make a quick commuter or something?
>>
>>1990243
>26in 11speed wheelset and 26in low rolling resitance tires are a niche.
That depends on if 135mm is fine for 11 speed, or if only 10 will fit.
I mean conti contact speeds are pretty fast and the michelin pilot pumps LOOK fast/cool. IDK I just run my 26in slicks at near max pressure and they roll fast enough for me.


I have a 10 speed 12-42 sunrace cassette on my DH turned enduro bike and it works great for 1x
I would always go with 26in since you can get a big voluminous tire with strong rims pretty cheap. Found with my 1.9's I can run regular shorts and be plenty comfy even on bad roads.
>>
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>>1990245
my old neighbour was chucking this out and I took it. laboured over it, its well adjusted but the rear wheel is fucked and it weighs tons (all steel despite aluminum sized tubes)

wanted to try 1x, like working on bikes, mainly ride on ashfelt. id probably run continental grand prix 5000 as my dad says they ride pretty well considering near bulletproof. the road groupsets are much more expensive or chinese brands
>>
>>1990247
yeah, i'd just get the spesh and do rh tires desu. gp5ks are quick and durable, but they are really not supple at all imo. rh tires will for sure be slower by like...8 watts on a rolling drum or something in a 42mm vs the 32mm gp5k, but they are are just legitimately far more pleasurable to ride. also i do not think the gp5ks are really worth 70 fuckin dollars each. also gravelkings will be a bit cheaper and still probably be pretty nice. sorry if it sounds like i am an rh shill, but like there really are not a ton of options for fast rolling 26er tires. conti contact speeds or whatever they are called have a relatively low rr, so do schwalbe kojaks i think.

though if speed and lightweight is what you want, i don't understand why you wouldn't just get a road bike and some nice tires rather than a hybrid or 90s mtb. you could get a 80s-90s road bike and throw a chinese guppo on it, people say the l-twoo shit is fine. keep in mind the aliexpress shimano parts are likely factory rejects or fakes as well.

like i get what you are trying to do, and whatever i guess, but a chinkshit 1x 10sp group on the spesh with nice tires will be a solid ride.
>>
>>1990247
continental is deprecated, your dad is out of touch. the commuter's choice now is pirelli
>>
got the time wrong ended now was this
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266747532182
£20 seems pretty good
>>
>>1990262
FUCK that thing is crusty. 20 bucks is ok until you are spending 200 on parts for the lowest end hardrock, especially if you don't have consumables or parts lying around.
>>
>>1990264
thanks for your help

i now realise the M5100 is "mtb 11speed" so a standard 35mm HG freehub body which means wheels are available in 700c and 26in that are compatible.

so i can get a 700c road bike, put 11speed wheel on it and away I go?
>>
>>1990300
just get something spaced to 130mm with an 8 speed group and get a chinkshit 10sp group for like max ease of compatibility and affordability. that way you don't have to buy new (probably shit) cheapo wheels.
say like 100-200 on bike, 140 on tires, 150-250 on groupset - still brings you to like 500 bucks at the most dude. now add on 250 for wheels, cabling, etc etc and this shit adds up pretty quickly. how much are you looking to spend?
>>
this is the coolest thing ever
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x5n29zsihxo
>>
>>1990308
i think theres a custom built 700c 9speed deore wheelset at home - dads touring frame was modernized in the 00s hence deore hub for 135mm spacing, i think that with an 11speed should work
>>
are rim brakes as efficient as disc brakes under dry conditions?
>>
Brakes are the exact opposite of efficiency
>>
>>1990354
If by efficient you mean 'Can I flip myself over the front wheel?' yes. You will have to pull the lever a bit harder though.
>>
I hate saddlebags. Do people who ride with no saddlebags just carry their spares and pump on their back pockets?
God I wished my bike had that internal storage newer bikes have; it's the only thing I envy from them.
>>
>>1990357
yeah, exactly what i'm wondering. thanks
>>
>>1990358
>I hate saddlebags.
same lol. i just have a big crate filled with spares that i pull with a rope attached to the seatpost. upside of this that i can take a spare wheel with me even tho its more cumbersome
>>
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>>1990360
lmao
>>
>>1990358
I don't bring anything most of the time. There is bottle cages that hold pumps and you can strap a spare onto your frame. Toptube bag or using a bidon as toolbox are also options
>>
>>1990360
lmfao

>>1990358
get a handle bar bag. saddle bags suck.
>>
>>1990396
Bar bags suck even more
They block the wind and most of the time aren't that much more accessible (most can't really be opened and closed while riding).
>>
>>1990430
>They block the wind
they block the wind from what? like they are less aerodynamic?
though, i have no problem reaching into mine while moving. not only that i think accessibility is increased while stationary as well. rather than having something you have to pack horizontally, it's far easier to just unzip and dig without having to worry about shit falling out.

but i mean people just generally fit everything into their jersey pockets for the most part. i mean what do you *need*? co2, tube, tire lever, food bars, and some multi tool? could easily fit that into a couple of pockets. tpu tubes are fairly slim also.
>>
>>1990358
>pump
mount it on the frame probably on the seat tube water bosses.
>spares
makes sense packed tightly in a small saddlebag, undersized tube, multitool, patch kit, $20, tissue, electrical tape, plaster
None of that stuff needs to be accessible. Get a nice one that is actually 100% waterproof.

then it's just a question of where do you keep your phone, keys, etc.
there are lots of good on bike options (i like nice old camera bags from thrift stores or subtle looking milsurp bags) but you can also just use a fanny pack or your pockets. Having a rack+basket that you just put whatever backpack in is also very convenient.
>>
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>>1990358
this style of bag is quite good. You can put it in over 7 different places
>>
>>1990358
I am a camelback guy. I don't run water in there but I have my spare tools,tubes, and a pump.
Saddlebags are fine but I like having one bag have all my stuff, and I have different bikes I like to ride.
>>
>>1990452
>like they are less aerodynamic?
Yes. Like putting a gigantic rectangle in front of you.

>>1990358
Most roadies can go on significant rides with nothey but jersey storage. They generally go co2, possibly frame pump for the oldfags. Maybe a bidon container.

>>1990247
That's old school hiten steel gaspipe. On the minus side, as you already know, it's a fucking boat anchor. On the plus side, with that setup, it will absorb road buzz and vibration like nobody's business.
>>
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>>1990466
I hated them too and used to put my stuff in an empty bottle held on one of my bottle cages. I eventually got a saddle roll bag. It tucks away right under the saddle and is essentially as big as the stuff you put in it. The picture makes it look a lot bulkier than it can be.
the one I got is the WEST BIKING Bike Saddle Bag ~$6.50 shipped on aliexpress
>>
>>1990358
I you'd the wrong doo >>1990484
>>
How vital is a spacer ring on a threaded headset?
I swapped my 1” threaded headset for a newer one with sealed bearings, but it’s like 2mm taller, and in order to get good feeling thread contact with the top nut, I can’t use the spacer.
If I use the spacer, it doesn’t seem like there’s enough threads being grabbed.
>>
>>1990088
Warranty doesn't cover obvious rider inflicted damage. Does a car's warranty cover driving into a tree or smashing a wheel into a curb?
That's insurance, not warranty.
>>
>>1990492
https://www.sram.com/en/zipp/campaigns/warranty

>Examples of coverage while riding:

>You are riding in a group, hit a pothole that nobody announced, and your wheel is damaged. You are covered.
>You’re flying down a singletrack on your MOTO wheels and you crack a rim on a sharp rock you didn’t spot? You are covered.

I was going to quote the bontrager warranty but it looks like they changed it, it used to be lifetime damage from intended use, including potholes, now it's reduced to 2 years. Wonder how long Zipp will keep this up
>>
>>1990488
DESU I would just try it without the spacer. Bring the tools with you on the first ride or so incase it loosens up,

I have ridden with a slightly loose headset and you just notice the front end bouncing around more then it should over rough terrain.
>>
>>1988691
I've been looking for a Gravel Bike for a while and pretty much settled on the Scott Speedster Gravel 30 for 1899€. My local retailer right now has the Gravel 40 EQ discounted for 1399€. Would you say the latter has better value at that price or should I stick with the 30?
>>
>>1990482
>Yes
i suppose it depends on what you are doing but this may not matter to everyone. probably has the same penalty of a number plate in a race.
>>
I want to replace my spoke nipples, they're not in good shape. Not even a soak with penetrating oil was enough to prevent me from stripping a couple of them.
Obviously get the same length, but material? steel, brass, aluminum? Steel would probably just be a galvanic corrosion nightmare waiting to happen when exposed to harsh conditions, right? same with brass I'd presume, and brass is pretty soft iirc. There are just so many nipples I'm not sure what to get.
>>
>>1990522
Brass is what most older wheelsets used and works fine. Aluminum is fine for aluminum wheelsets but you need the big boi spoke nipple wrench and it could galvanically corrode to the steel spoke.

Your call on what you want. I generally use brass and they are fine, but most nipples that are too tight or too corroded will just round.
>>
>>1990522
Just pick the cheapest dt swiss brass or sapim brass (unless you have some other brand in muriga), there's really no much choice. Corrosion isn't really an issue, your nipples are just super old or bad quality or you go in salt and snow idk.
You might want to change your spokes too if they're bad quality, just for fun, since you're going to have to true your wheel anyway.
>>
>>1990524
think this bitch was sitting by the ocean or subjected to salty water or something. bb was filled with nasty water so i dunno. i was thinking sapim was what people generally went with, yeah. but the spokes are in good shape, though.
if i wanted to swap spokes n stuff i think i would just build a new wheelset desu
>>1990523
rims and spokes are aluminum. wasn't sure how brass would interface with aluminum over time, i assumed it'd be subject to the same galvanic corrosion due to dissimilar metals.
what big boi spoke nipple wrench? like the open end wrench type?
>>
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what's the winrar way of shaving your legs
>>
>>1990531
I used to be autistic about de and shit but now I just bulk purchase schick hydro cartridges and shave once a week with the grain (against the grain is unnecessary and all you get is ingrown hairs)
>>
>>1990531
>>1990532
imagine shaving your legs when you're not a sponsored professional
>>
>>1990534
>hello everyone I have disgusting hairy ape legs and I gladly flaunt my lack of hygiene because I'm scared someone might mistake me for a pro cyclist

don't worry anon, I promise nobody will mistake YOU for a pro

[spoiler]they might mistake you for a hobo or a gorilla though[/spoiler]
>>
should you lube new shift cables?
>>
>>1990539
extremely terrible idea
>>
>>1990540
how about rubbing them with paraffin wax?
>>
>>1990531
>>1990534
i don't shave because in my schizo mind my body hair gives me a boundary layer reducing aerodynamic drag just like a golf ball
>>
>>1990541
if your new cables aren't shifting nice then the cables weren't the problem. look at the housings or the endpoints
>>
>>1990543
ok thanks
>>
>>1990484
i have the same one, the only thing i would prefer is if it was made of a fabric that was easier to clean.
>>
>>1990527
Are you sure your spokes are aluminum though. Never seen em myself
>>
>>1990540
>>1990540
I always put some Teflon grease on cables
>>
>>1990540
>>1990539

mustache man says put some oil down your housing .
I squeeze grease into the braid of the cable. never hurt anything
>>
>>1990537

>>1986708
>>
>>1990549
i just re-checked with the magnet and yeah, i'm retarded. there wasn't a strong pull but they're definitely steel.
>>
>>1990554
Yeah and he's dead now, looks like not shaving his legs worked out great for him didn't it
>>
>>1990559
touché
>>
What kind of stuff should I be looking at for just riding river valley paved multi-use paths and residential streets for cardio exercise on a casual frequency? So lots of short steep hills but not sustained high speed or long distance riding.
>>
>>1990575
flat bar "fitness" or "Hybrid" bike with adequate low gears
>>
>>1990540
New housings come pre-greased too
>>
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are these worth getting? they are ~7x more expensive than the normal ones
>>
>>1990616
no? just get the normal metal, non stepped ones.
>>
>>1990617
thx
>>
The bicycle can’t move on its own at all, the power was inside you all along
>>
>>1990026
>>1989958
>>1989952
I actually was able to just get it replaced for free.

It's a Bontrager Aeolus Elite 50 and apparently they have a 2 year warranty for any damage which I didn't realize until I brought my bike to the store and they just replaced it for free which is awesome. I was dreading having to shell out hundreds for another wheel.
>>
Pokemon confirmed dumb and against rules, Digimon remains on-topic and cool. Does this guy’s tire tread pattern check out?
>>
>>1990539
PTFE or silicone spray can't hurt, don't put some greasy shit in the housing that just gunks it up.
>>
>>1990659
Looks like it scores low on the bicycle rolling resistance test, but I bet walkers will get out of the way.
is that an e-bike?
>>
>>1990662
Well that’s against a steel drum which doesn’t represent real world road conditions that tire might work perfectly on swiss highways
>>
>>1990663
My issue is the spikes would absorb energy and bounce back each time it goes over the road.
Let alone the spikes on the side of the tire not being aero.

The green color and electrical field also make me question what material it is made out of. Can't be rubber.
>>
>>1990664
The single remote leaf shifter on his bullhorns suggest it may be an organically derived plant-type polymer like those prototype schwalbe commuter tires use which makes sense as he’s clearly riding 24/7 like all of us and demands longevity over rolling resistance which can be made up for by simply using more digiwatts
>>
>>1990666
>666
alright satan I will believe you.
I hope he can launch his "drill" at faster riders and shock them.
That would be cool
>>
>>1990668
I think prodding other racers with your drill while riding is considered aid
>>
>cycle for years
>keeps me from depression
>be in my 30s (virgin)
>notice that my penis feels completely numb
>go to the urologist
>urologist learns I cycle, and says that penile numbness is linked to cycling and said that if I stop cycling, my feeling in my penis should return.
>stop cycling
>12 months later I still have no feeling in my penis
>go back to urologist
>uro says that by now it should have returned, and that in MOST cases, sensation comes back. But I might be in the category of people who never regain feeling
>tfw 30 year old virgin who now officially, will die a virgin
Anyone else make it though this?
>>
>>1990672
Try a tens unit. I use it for uhhhh "science" but it shocks your nerves and if you put one patch on your taint and the other on your head it gets works. I have heard it being recommended for ED, which is kinda what you have.

I have had some tingles before while riding, but found I just had to angle the seat down a little or lower it and adjust my seating. Now I can ride a long time and have no issue, my penis functionality is more linked to if I over use it, or if I am fat it doesn't work as well.

I am almost a wizard too. I don't really care but you probably should have adjusted your shit when you felt the tingles.

>>1990669
Yeah I want to drill some ass too.............
>>
>>1990675
>I am almost a wizard too. I don't really care but you probably should have adjusted your shit when you felt the tingles.
i didn't think about it when i felt tingles. It never occurred to me. I'm a virgin, so it's not like i was noticing a difference during regular sex.
>tens unit
well the urologist said if it hasn't come back by now that it might never. She said the majority of the time that if a patient stops cycling for a while, the feeling comes back. But its not always the case. I am just unlucky. I don't feel anything in my entire dick. I can hold my dick in my hand, and i don't have any feeling throughout any part of it.
>>
>>1990677
I would start looking into options of things to try. I know the tens works to shunt blood into the area and stimulate nerves... which is the issue you have.
Take it into your own hands and do research. You might be fucked but you should only give up when you have exhausted everything you wanted to.
>>
>>1990678
I mean, I have been seeing a urologist.. they are the experts on the penis. I was advised to just change my seat positon, and take it easier when riding. But there isn't anything that can be done if i have permanent nerve damage.
>>
>>1990681
Yeah, and that's why after the specialist is stumped you have to try weird shit or cope.
>>
>>1990682
ok I'll contact the urologist today and ask about electroshock therapy to the taint.

Do you have any tips for coping?
>>
>>1990683
coping with a non functioning penis?
I guess I would see if you just lack feeling or if it doesn't even get hard.
Sorry man, mine works so I don't know how I would cope with it not working. Maybe delve into work or other shit to keep my mind off it.
>>
>>1990684
>I guess I would see if you just lack feeling or if it doesn't even get hard.
There is 0 feeling. No sensation at all. I also don't get erections much anymore. I used to wake up every single day with boners, but that is much less frequent now.
>>
>>1990685
Have you tried performance enhancing penile drugs? I'm on the older side for 4chan and I no longer get 45 minute erections just from the wind blowing like most of the kids here. Daily dose of cialis sort of puts me back in the game so to speak. Might not help with the nerve endings but should be enough for just jackhammering someone's hole until they fake an orgasm, if that's what you're after.
>>
>>1990704
>might not help with nerve endings
that is also what google says, there is no cure for nerves.
>but should be enough for just jackhammering someone's hole until they fake an orgasm, if that's what you're after.
I am a virgin. What would be the point of that.
>>
>>1990705
>I am a virgin. What would be the point of that.
Society isn't kind to people who don't have a lot of sex, or have sex partners. You should know. Don't let the perfect be the enemy of the good. If you can just larp as someone who enjoys sex, with someone else who also larps as someone who enjoys sex, you can get this dumb check box checked to boost your score and it may be enough to get you access to things that would otherwise be denied to a wizard.

Also you might look into Selle SMP if you're interested in trying to approach it from a circulation/pinching angle. It is said to be the best for this kind of thing. I get by with my grooved generic fizik, but I looked at the SMPs last time I was in the market and they look pretty interesting if you're willing to do all the annoying setup work.
>>
>>1990708
>If you can just larp as someone who enjoys sex
i think having sex with a broken cock would make me even more angry and frustated. I had a working cock during all of my 20s, but remained a virgin. now in my 30s, my cock is broken. I'm still a virgin
>>
>>1990711
yea thats why he says larp
but desu ive never had sex and no one has ever asked me if i had sex and im almost 30 so idk. i feel like most people don't actually care, but then again i am an unemployed student and do not interact with people much so my opinion is probably worthless.
>>
>>1990672
Think your doctor is retarded
>>
>>1990737
Look it up. It’s real
>>
>>1990738
I know reddit is loaded with these posts, but they have no medical basis
>>
>>1990739
https://youtu.be/A7TumbgioZQ?si=Xqz-Q1pnilrZGwsR
>>
What's stopping me from just ripping a chain off a shitty Huffy and using it on a mountain bike? I have one that looks to be decent.
Also, what's a good chain to get for an ACTUAL bike? I got a secondhand expensive half-mountain half-road bike and want something to bike around on roads/dirt trails on.
t. suburban massachusetts
>>
they make chains specifically for the number of cogs you have on the cassette in the back
>>
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>>1990762
Sick
I've got to do a few more things to this piece of ass, but what the fuck is THIS shit? I know I took it off the bike when I got it (and now the wheel I took off the back seems to have the slightest bend to it since I can hear it gently scrape against the back as it spins for about a fifth of each rotation) but what IS this shit?
>>
>>1990762
Who are you anon that never replies to people's posts directly. Are you bacon riders son or something?
>>
>>1990765
you took one of your derailleurs apart and that's a piece of it. probably the front one
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>>1990765
The H and L suggest it might be a part of a derailleur/shifter but it looks so cheap and ass it’s unrecognizable from anything normal
>>
As far as I remember it wasn't connected to anything
>>1990769
>>1990770
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>>1990765
100% the limit screws from the rear derailleur. Your derailleur is now probably out of wack and rubbing on the wheel/cassette somewhere.

You're retarded lol
>>
>>1990765
post the bike dude. please post the bike.
>>
>>1990774
It was obviously connected to the bike
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>>1990774
well, that's what it is, so it was definitely connected
>>
why is the nitto b135 in a 39cm out of stock EVERYWHERE
soma has a b132 but the reach is too long
no other bars with a 39cm flare and 25.4 clamp? i mean i could get a 37cm nitto 105 and flare it, but idk. i would rather not. my vise really sucks.
>>
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extremely tempted
its exactly $1499 in USD
thoughts?
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>>1990856
Looks like it already belongs to Matt
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>>1990856
But yes full carbon one year old with 105 and hydraulic brakes for $1500 US in australia, the land of the upcharge, is pretty cool
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>>1990856
yeah dude i'd hop on it before it's gone
>>
How could I add a hose head to my existing frame pump?
presta valve from old tube to some vac hose to another pump head?
>>
>>1990856
it seems good but I just don't understand why the buying public thinks that paint looks cool. presumably market research says this is what bike buyers want? or maybe the research was off and that's why it's on sale?
you should probably get it but I felt compelled to complain about the awful paint choices on today's bikes.
>>
>>1990765
plastic cover of a front derailleur
normally you would limit the travel on it with these screws
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>>1990912
>front derailleur
fucking knew it.
in your face, RD guessers!
>>
Guys I have a dilemma. My gears seem to be fine when I put the bike on a bike repair stand and shift and try it but when I start to push the pedal and go to the lowest gear and go fast it just feels like it's jumping out and making crunching noise and like skipping but returning to the same gear? If that makes any sense? And if I don't go too fast it just rides normally. Every other gear works perfect except the lowest
>>
>>1990918
your frame can flex with you on it and riding.
after the shifting is right in the stand, test ride it and twiddle the barrel adjuster in the field
>>
is there really any reason to go for msw or silca super secret over just straight up paraffin wax if my main concern is just cleanliness and longevity (of the chain itself) and not efficiency?
>>
>>1990934
chain autism is a waste of time. I include waxing as autism since it wears off quickly and you have to do it much more often than oil, and it requires removal from the bike.
chains are cheap and although I applaud servicing parts to maximize life in general; for chains beyond wiping down with solvent, oiling, and wiping it back down is chasing diminishing returns on something you're going to replace at some point anyway.
I did it for years and it was fucking stupid
>>
>>1990946
getting your chain clean at all requires removal from the bike so that point is moot.
ime so far waxing has been great so far for just keeping stuff clean as well as to maintain even if the time to re lube is a lot longer.
chain's are going to wear out, yeah, but i mean it would take maybe 5-600 miles to reach 38.4-5cm for 15 links using whatever cheapo lubes. if i can get double that using $5 worth of wax, then that is pretty good i think.
>>
>>1990950
>getting your chain clean at all requires removal from the bike so that point is moot
I specified just wiping it down with solvent in place because that gets it clean enough, for some values of "clean," which you obviously disagree with.
>>1990950
>if i can get double that using $5 worth of wax, then that is pretty good i think.
it's not the cost, it's your time.
but whatever you're comfortable with
>>
>>1990958
>it's your time
>>1990950
>even if the time to re lube is a lot longer
yes i realize, but it's pretty hands off for the most part which is such a non-issue.
just wiping down the chain with solvent doesn't get shit clean. as well as the rest of your drivetrain being coated with grease which i can otherwise just quickly brush off if i wax.

like i don't know what you're trying to convince me of if i have tried the alternative and decided that this better suits my needs.
>>
Someone told me to buy a cheap bike on fb marketplace and get it tuned up at a shop. I never had a bike but what does tune up mean in this case, what will they tune ?
>>
>>1990961
brakes and shifting. retighten any loose bearings. possibly regrease any crunchy bearings. possibly tighten loose spokes and correct any wobble in the rims ("truing" the wheels). these may not be included in the tune up, depending on the shop, but they can at least diagnose those things. if the chain or gearteeth are blown, they'll tell you. if the cables or housing need replacing, they'll tell you. it'll be separate jobs and charges for replacements, though.
>>
>>1990934
If you care about looking nice and being able to touch it barehanded more than actual power, yeah go wax 100%. Wax your hub bearings while you’re at it
>>
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>>1990912
>>1990914
Top lads, I actually found where it goes in about 30s after posting asking where it could go
No clue what the bike is. Bought it off a good friend after he went elsewhere for way cheaper than what it's worth. All it needs is a chain but after reading the thread I think I'll get it 'tuned-up' as it hasn't been ridden since I bought it about a year and a half to two years ago by now. What would be the price to look out for for it? It was maintained and everything so I can't imagine it's in bad shape in the slightest, the only problem was I had the back wheel resting somewhere so now when it rotates there's a gentle rubbing of the wheel against the slot it inserts into. Everything else looks fine, barring surface rust.
& What chain should I get? Oil too.
>>
>>1990995
“Tune-up” just means they’ll twist the 6 screws that adjust your shifter and brakes according to the YouTube video’s instructions, they’ll also point out what needs to be replaced (which they do for free), and they’ll wipe the frame with a wet rag and charge you $150
Really what you want is the list of what specifically is wrong, so you can just google the words, find the solutions and see that it probably costs $30 of parts to do a better job than what the shop will do
>>
>>1990996
hell yeah brother, i wouldn't mind learning this shit but i'm not becoming a bikeman lest i stare into the abyss
i'll have to call a place and see what's-what then if they'll tell me shit for free or not and go from there
if i can troubleshoot shitty computers for ten years i can figure out a bike
>>
>>1990998
You don’t have to stare into the abyss, just into the mustache
>>
>>1990934
>if my main concern is just cleanliness and longevity
I autism over this and I suspect the only difference between premium wax blends and plain paraffin is the application interval i.e. how long before you have to rewax. But you can study the zerofriction cycling testing data and see what you think.
As far as I can tell a waxed chain just doesnt wear. so the only time it experiences wear is when the wax is depleted I believe. And the additives make the wax hang out inside the chain for longer.
>>
>>
>>1991010
so you can change position based on what you're doing without having to swap parts or...?
>>
should I get this instead of headset wrenches
>>
is your shoulders supposed to be sore after your first ride of the season or has my bike fit been way off and I just got used to it? knee was hurting too but not for as long
>>
>>1991018
Looks like it could replace 4 of my $30 tools
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>>1991018
I use a park tool hcw-15 and an adjustable wrench I got from a pawn shop for a few dollars.
Over the past 6 bikes I've owned, I have only used to 32mm side.
I think adjustable wrenches are not really the best for high torque applications, especially when you use them from the wrong side, which you inevitably will. Though my headset wrench is marred after maybe...under 25 uses?
How much does it cost?
>>
>>1991021
>>1991022
this thing opens to 40mm and the jaws are 2mm thick. it's like 27USD. I think I'm going to get it. the only trouble with crescent style adjustable wrenches is that the jaws aren't completely parallel, but you can mitigate this by wrapping a plastic bag around whatever you're wrenching on to firm up the grip and prevent marring.
>>
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>>1991018
channellock made in the USA $33
>>
>>1991025
Not that I care unless it's like big China, Pooland, or one of the less competent SEAmonkey countries but
>Made to CHANNELLOCK® specifications in Spain.
>>
>>1990517
>i suppose it depends on what you are doing but this may not matter to everyone.
That is correct. Fat, slow cruisers with no wind shouldn't give a fuck. It's exponential with speed.

>probably has the same penalty of a number plate in a race.
Larger, and it's exponential. A small difference is huge in a headwind or at speed.

>>1991020
How the fuck could we possibly know? If you spent all off season eating nachos, maybe. Best take it easy with base miles for a bit.

>>1990761
Single speed chains aren't the same as multi speed ones. The huffy chain is probably garbage. KMC chains are OEM good and cheaply available.

>>1990672
Uh, you never got your fit straightened out or your saddle correct or your chamois issues? I'm not even saying to go recumbent, but maybe your dick needs sunshine.

>>1990659
For snow riding.
>>
>>1991010
Is your bike smol and you don't want a riser stem?
Otherwise I you can run 2 different stack heights pretty easily with this setup.
I do like the shallow drops and wider bar.
>>1991023
Seems valid enough. I would probably do most of the tightening with the top nut and just hold the other nut with this.
>>1991020
ride more and hit the gym you DYEL
After a month of regular riding then start worrying about joint pains.
>>
Does anyone make a greater than 25mm setback 27.2 seat post that isn't $100 with 2 bolt adjusters?
.
>>
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>>1991018
I'd go for the channel lock one. I guess I'd be worried about that small amount of play my normal adjustable wrenches get but these precision ones are probably much better engineered, I'm sure it's fine.
These things exist. there are obscure sizes not on this one but I think there's a second one that makes all of them? it was so long ago but I feel like there were two at the shop when I got it.
anyway one may be cheaper but two is probably equal or more than the channel lock
>>
>>1991071
yes
https://velo-orange.com/collections/seatposts/products/vo-grand-cru-seat-post-long-setback
>>
>>1991077
ohh tysm
>>
>>1991078
: )
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>>1990933
I did this and nothing happens I still get problems with lowest cog, checked the chain and alignment but nothing seems wrong
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>>1991092
I dunno, too much/too little tension in the cable? something wrong with the shifter?
not sure this can be diagnosed over the internet
>>
>>1991092
maybe the teeth on the lowest gear are blown but the others aren't, that would make that one gear skip and not the others.
if you know that's the gear you're in most of the time, that's probably it; but even if not, check.
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>>1990961
that's pretty bad advice, either they just do some basic maintenance you can easily do yourself, or you'll spend 3-4x the value of a cheap pos bike if it needs repairs, and they might not even have access to the correct parts.
>>
>>1990898
it isnt painted
its raw carbon
therefore ever so mildly lighter but less uv resistant
https://youtu.be/dPn4RNvn4EE?t=51
go to 50s
>>
couldn't you just take any 127/130mm rear wheel and replace the axle with a 135mm one with the appropriate spacers? i bought some 28h rims for like 7 bucks each and wanted to try and build something out of them. i really don't want disc hubs, though.
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>>1991157
>rear wheel
rear hub. sorry, i'm tired.
>>
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Thoughts on not-bromptons that aren't chinese clones?
>>
>>1991157
Yes. The hub won't be as "maximally" strong since that's related to wider hub flange=generally stronger.
Oh, and you need to make sure the derailleur can reach far enough "in" to the biggest sprocket on the cassette. If the big sprocket is too far away from the right drop out and the derailleur can't swing it you would have to shift the wheel to the right, then maybe have to re dish or run a larger brake pad gap.

Just find out.
I did the cursed thing of putting an 8 speed freewheel on a 126 wheel. Also have run wheels on the back that weren't perfectly dished for the bike. works fine with more brake pad gap.
>>1991092
You need to make sure the derailleur is setup fine, then inspect the small cog. It could be fucked, and in that case some are replaceable but I would just use the larger cogs.

The less teeth a cog has the more load it takes, this causes them to wear quicker. This is why racing mtb cassettes run aluminum 42 or 50 tooth cogs sometimes.
>>
Why are people still fuckin with 130mm the future is now old man, hell the future happened 30 years ago and only costs $20 a wheel now
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>>1991180
If you aren't riding with 190mm hubs you and your midget bike can get out of the way.
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>>1991172
>I did the cursed thing of putting an 8 speed freewheel on a 126 wheel
jesus dude i did that on a 135mm mtb wheel and that was 135mm and that was a dishing nightmare, the spokes really needed to be shortened on one side, couldn't imagine with a 127mm hub considering how close a 7sp fw is.
but yeah i think i should have enough axle spacers to get everything positioned correctly, if I decide to go 135mm. never built a wheel before so we'll see how it goes i guess.
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>>1991191
I literally just added 2-3 washers on the drive side.
Didn't even re-dish since the tire is only 2-3mm off center.
The original 7 speed fw+hub was kinda loose in the DO anyways.

Kek I have built 2 wheels and it's easy enough, just follow sheldon browns stuff.
>>
>>1991147
>hello welcome to Floor and Decor
>can I get linoleum?
>of course, we have hundreds of colors and patterns for you to choose from !
>well, I'd really rather have the resin be clear so I can see the layers of fiber underneath
>gtfo my store
>>
>>1991191
I just built my first set but they were different spec front and back. I've been trueing my wheels for decades though so that's the delicate part. I made a mistake in the lacing but luckily I caught it before I went very far. I read my old repair manual which is usually good but the wheel building section had parts difficult to follow. read and watched several things but Park Tool ended up being the most clear instructions, to me.
figuring out hub measurements and erd to get your spoke length is a job in itself. then lacing needs your full concentration. but those were the only hard parts.
>>
>>1988691
New thread
New thread
New thread
>>1991219
>>1991219
>>1991219



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