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File: 1718649637732.jpg (277 KB, 1179x1777)
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"Fred" edition

Resources:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help

Previous thread: >>2002406
>>
A true fred shaves his legs no matter how fat, this guy is just confused and thought he got a mountain bike and now he's stuck because he realized he has to pedal the dang thing and for $2500 it oughtta come with a motor
>>
Anyone have experience with a folding bike here?

I'm a bit tired of my fixie.
>>
this chain's not too short? the chain that originally came with the bike was 120 links, but the new replacement chain I got in the store only has 116 links. it seems most chains longer than 116 are intended for electric bikes, so this confuses me a bit as mine's not an electric bike, and the previous chain didn't have those big pins found in electric bike chains

also: the rear derailleur now doesn't want to shift to the smallest few sprockets unless I move it with my hand. I tried to spray a lubricating oil into the eight derailleur joints, but that did nothing. how to fix this?
>>
I've got a bike from 2014 with a 3x9 Sora drivetrain. The levers have little plastic windows with indicators for what gear you're in, and over time they've yellowed and gotten scuffed up so I figure I'll take the excuse to treat myself and swap the whole drivetrain. I've got mechanical discs I'm happy with. I have a few options and I'm having a hard time picking between them. I mostly ride around a paved trail in the city. There's a gravel section and some significant hills; as I get fitter and ride farther I plan to take some day trips up into the mountains so a lower bottom gear might be nice.

1. Sora R3000: this moves the shift cable under the tape for a cleaner look than my current groupset but changes basically nothing else. 50/39/30 chainrings, 11-34 cassette. Least change per dollar spent.

2. Tiagra 4700: this moves from 3x9 to 3x10. Still 50/39/30 in front, officially only supports 11-32 in back. I know that the 9-speed Shimano stuff had some compatibility between road and mountain components; did that continue into 10-speed? I'm less familiar with mountain bike parts, pretty out of my depth.

3. Microshift Sword 2x10: way lower bottom end, making "carry camping gear into the mountains by bicycle" seem downright realistic. Lacks top-end gearing but I can probably coast downhill on long rides. 46/29 in front and 11-38 in back. Is a 2x10 drivetrain usable for mostly-road touring?
>>
>>2003904
Is this a question?
>>2003909
park tool has a video on both problems. Chain is generally big+big+ extra 2 links(I think).
>>
>>2003912
I would go with the tiagra. The 1st gen of claris/sora that had hidden cables shifted meh. Meanwhile my claris lasted to 10k.

It sounds like you do real touring. I would stick with a 3x setup, it is ideal for touring and towing. The extra maintenance involved is worth the extra range.

That being said I have another suggestion. Buy a "headlight detail kit".

Use the detail kit on the windows of your shifters. Basically its polish and multiple fine to finer sandpapers that result in the perfect look with 15 minutes total. The cost of this is maybe $15.

I dont see what you are proposing as an upgrade. Remember the golden rule...if it shifts clean do ya really want to fuqq with it?

>>2003906
Get another meme bike. They are only good for multimodal commuting.

Other fun meme bikes: a 1x7 klunker, a 29er adult bmx
>>
>>2003917
I always do big+big plus one link, but I've never had a sprocket that huge. still, the pic of his pulleys looks fine to me. no idea about his troubles with the small gears, though , but I would also attribute that to having a 12 speed cassette or whatever it is
>>2003909 see if the 116 links fit the big+big plus one formula. don't thread it through the derailleur, just lay the chain over them, pull the ends together as if you were going to run it that way, then add a link and size to that length. if you don't have enough chain for that, then that's the problem. if that's where you are now, maybe try anon's version with two extra links? beyond that, I got nothing.
>>
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>>2003912
Sword loses 10 gear inches at the top end, still has you over 30 miles an hour, and gains 63% in range. If you want a lower gear for climbs, Tiagra and newer Sora don't contribute to that goal.
>>
>>2003918
>1x7 klunker
come on man, at least go claris which i suprisingly decent in new iterations
>>
>release new 12-speed Red AXS
>show off unreleased 13-speed groupset two weeks later

What did SRAM mean by this?
>>
>>2003909
You need big+big plus 4-5 extra links on new Shimano. So the chain is too short.
I think you need to check your cables. If you undo the cable clamping bolt the chain should go onto the smallest cog.
>>
>>2003912
I'd opt for the Sword but with a 50-34 crank. I've done a 5 day bikepacking trip through the alps recently on 50-34 11-36 and didn't miss lighter gears. So the 38 should be granny enough for you.
One friend suffered too light gearing on his 1x meme grabble bike.

Also pic rel exists. You can always replace a cassette for a bigger one and extend the RD to make it fit. I've done that to so many old bikes it's not funny anymore. 0 issues, would recommend
>>
Are belt drives a meme? I hear they struggle on strep hills and although they're supposed to last years if there is an issue they're a nightmare to replce
>>
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>>2004012
They exist. They last longer then chains, cost a ton more, need to be tensioned somewhat accurately, and gear changing is expensive for sprockets.
IMO optimal belt drive is a rear gear hub+belt drive.

It feels different then a normal chain drive single speed.
>>2004010
I have one of the road links on an old dh bike... now an enduro bike. Works great.
>>
>>2004012
yeah they're for people that are too dumb for chains
>>
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i cannot for the life of me get this crank off the bike. It seems completely seized but then again i just went at it with a fitting allen key. Whats the secret /n/? It's not turning smoothly as is
>>
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the frame is also rusted in some places so i might just throw some very cheap components on and treat it as a beater for my work commute
>>
>>2004050
That's a normal square taper crank.
Undo the bolt, then use a crank removal tool that threads into the crank arm. Then you tighten it down and the crank "pops" off.

Yes, you could use a mallet, but a square taper crank arm removal tools are cheap and invaluable.

A cheap one will work.
>>
>>2004050
if the bolt is stuck use a big allen key like pic related, position it to the left of the crank and squeeze the two together like a grip strengthener, that should dislodge the bolt. unscrew it, then use a crankpuller to get the crank off.
>>
>>2004012
belt drives are imo way nicer than single speed chains, they cost more but outlast a chain by about 10x. they don't rust, are clean and practically maintenance free. also i like that they're completely silent, but that's a matter of taste.
>>2004042
they're perfect for normies, if you like working on your bike and changing parts you might as well get a chain so you can swap out sprockets and chainrings for different sizes or get a different color chain or whatever.
>>
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has anyone here been chinked

I bought the P505base magene power meter, works beautifully ->
Except the damn left crank arm moves outboard - see image.
This has happened twice, I always figure it out when the front derailleur shifting is fucked all of a sudden. I live in the flats and so there is almost no use of the FD.

What can I do to fix this chinkery? The Crankset is pretty much identical to Shimano, with the difference of only one (1) retaining bolt on the crankarm, and one preload large bolt (in the axle).
>>
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>>2004079
here you can see the bolt clearly (from vid below)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_IzVWA7p7jM
>>
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>>2004079
>>2004080
here
the only option I am considering that may work (and may be a total hassle) is to use loctite fastener to bond the two surfaces together. However every time I need to access my BB I expect I may need a strong mallet-ing to get the thing to separate. I already contacted the company for solutions, but who expects anything out of china(?).

Any recommendations?
>>
>>2004081
I would just use a lower strength one at first, and that's exactly what I would do.
>>
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>>2004052
>>2004064
thanks anons
it is the bolt that is causing me trouble, i think i need to get myself one of those bigger allen keys. I hate having two tools for the same job but it doesn't seem like there is any way around it with this one. It's a nice bike so hopefully it cleans up well
>>
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>>2004094
Thanks! I will try Loctite 641 first
>>
>>2004095
If you have a metal allen key, like out of a set you can use a mallet to hit that(lefty loosey) in the meantime, but eventually you will want a larger allen key, or a 3/8 drive allen set so you can put it on a ratchet or breaker bar later.
>>
>>2004081
I used loctite for resizing my grand soiko bracelet when I first unboxed it but I've never used it on bike parts, that sounds kinda weird
>>
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Someone explain to me how this is better in literally any way than the kind that strap to your rails.
>>
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>>2003918
>The 1st gen of claris/sora that had hidden cables shifted meh
Claris R2000 shifts better than 105 R7000 in the back (probably just because less gears) and shifts totally fine in the front (worse than 105 but better than previous Claris), t. owns both. Lrn2 adjust a mech .

>>2004079
>works beautifully
>except the part where it literally falls apart and will fuck up your bb over time if you don't either constantly readjust it or fucking glue it together
Get your money back if possible and get something better (or just nothing). A used Stages crank arm is about $100 on ebay.

https://www.magene.com/en/power-meters/41-pes-p505-base-power-meter.html
>Exquisite design and technology make PES P505 Base power meter have professional performance of stiffness and shifting. Smooth shifting and simple operation bring a comfortable cycling experience for performance level. Excellent performance and better compatibility make riders feel the unique passion of pedaling.
luhmao
>>
>>2004079
clean and lightly grease bolt thread and mating surfaces so that it can actually install properly
>>
>>2004110
you used locktite on a high end watch bracelet but you think it's weird to use it on machinery?
what are you, some kind of fag?
>>
>>2004111
that looks not only completely retarded, but also overpriced
>>
>>2004111
Proprietary mountings are always hit or miss. I do like Trek's blendr lights that go into a hole in the stem faceplate, but that saddlebag setup is dumb. Fizik ICS and Giant Uniclip are better proprietary saddlebag options because they use clips molded into the saddle base, which makes moving bags between bikes super easy and clean (assuming you have multiple bikes with saddles from the same ecosystem). But yeah, nothing wrong with straps, especially if you have just one bike (or one bag per bike).
>>
I know you guys don't like ebikes here, but if you had to get one, which one would you buy (or build)?
>>
>>2004126
Take one of my bikes, or a nice bike I see on the used market, stick a front electric hub, and mount the battery to my DT.
Thus having 2wd and only using the e-function at higher speeds.
Cost effective too.
>>
>>2004111
Proprietary or not, I am not buying anything that doesn't also attach to the seatpost tube. Single connection point will fail, its just a matter of time.
>>
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Are lugs coming back?
>>
>>2004126
I wouldn't get a Bosch
>>
>>2004177
How fat is the typical downhill bike purchaser that they needed to go back to steel lug construction?
>>
>>2004177
they do this for prototypes so they can alter the geometry
>>
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>>2004189
those are alloy
carbon tubes with alloy lugs were the precursor to modern carbon frames
>>
>>2003899
How do you guys overcome the fear of just being run over and being crushed by cars?
>>
>>2004010
This doesn't support triple chainrings, but it's worth considering if you're swapping your whole drivetrain for a double anyway.

>>2004194
Get hit regularly by smaller cars over time to build your tolerance
>>
>>2004194
Video I saw recently the dude ran a glasses mirror, and on another bike a in handlebar mirror.
Also rode on empty roads.

If you live in like NY or something just nut up, or expose yourself at night when there might be less traffic
>>
>>2004197
Have you fellas been hit by a car? If so what happened?
>>
>>2004199
I avoid high traffic areas..... sorry man.
>>
>>2004126
>get REI e1.2
>upgrade the components and add a thumb throttle
REI doesn't sell these anymore, so you will need to find another base bike to work with.
>>
>>2004194
how many times have you heard of bikes getting maimed or killed by cars?
ok, now how many times have you heard of drivers getting maimed or killed by cars?
it's kind of a trick question because the later is so common place the news doesn't even always report it.

if you feel safe in a car, then logically you're safer on a bike.
but ok, fear is illogical: well, everyone here is happy and healthy on a bike is all I can say.

I've been hit by cars several times. the worst injury I've ever sustained on a bike was self-caused when I was trying to do some trick riding when nobody was on the road but me and I hit a pothole and went OTB; broke my arm.
>>
>>2004199
>>2004215 here. lots of road rash: hips and butt and elbows and forearms. once one of the tiny foot bones broke. no head impacts on any of them.
>>
Well, how do i use it? Surely you can do better
>>
>>2004199
I got hit by a pickup truck in front of a cop once. Knocked me into the road, then the cop parked in front of me and called an ambulance. My knees haven't felt great since and I got a couple of scrapes, but nothing broken according to the X-rays. My frame ended up under the truck's wheels and was fucked forever, and he offered through his insurance company to buy me a new bike but we couldn't get that lined up for some dumb paperwork reason.
>>
>>2004219
https://youtu.be/sEv8irsdQI8?si=B8MCilEUUnrNIxND
>>
>>2004199
i was hit by a car when i was a kid no injuries luckily just a bent front wheel
>>
>>2004219
Hope you're not installing new cup-and-cone bottom brackets in 2024.
>>
>>2004228
Let us not forget the Ashtabulas, a race of aliens found in Star Trêk from 1991-1994
>>
>>2004228
probably just removing and servicing the one on his old bike
>>
>>2004228
Why?
>>2004219
Use park tool or Sheldon Brown guide
>>
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>>2003899
>been learning to ride for about a week now
>still can't get the hang of turning
>>
>>2004110
loctite is a brand that makes a million types of industrial glue, some of it even has medical applications (yes you can loctite your heart implant or whatever they use it on)
>>
>>2004236
the faster you go, the more the bike "holds you up"
committing to a turn, taking the turn by leaning into it and leaning back upright out of the turn is the shortest distance between the entry and exit of the turn, therefore fastest, therefore most stable. hold your line with the arm OPPOSITE the turn. don't lead the turn with the arm inside the turn. let that arm go slack except for the grip. lead by leaning in and then countersteer against the lean once you're in the turn to hold the line you want.
you have to trust it.
for really fast, tight turns, you get better stability by sticking the turn-side knee into the turn i.e. point the knee at the ground. you see motorcycle racers on TV do this. it's a good thing but only when you have the confidence for super fast, tight turns
but watch out for pedal strike. if you lean too far and it hits, don't panic. try to pedal out of it normally and countersteer as slightly as you're able to get back to your projected line as best you can . THEN right yourself. if you reflexively try to jerk against the strike, you'll wobble around, more likely to tumble.
>>
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>>2004240
Thank you kindly for the tip.
>>
>>2004242
no problem. it just takes getting used to, muscle memory and everything. once you've got it, you'll never even think about it again . a week is pretty early in your learning, you'd probably figure it out on your own but yeah, that's the way everyone does it
>>
>>2004242
mwah is that you
>>
>>2004236
You dont conciously turn the handlebar as much as you shift your weight.
>>
>>2004195
>This doesn't support triple chainrings
I'm using the roadlink on a triple crank bike that I upgraded from 12-28 to 11-34, mate. No issues
>>
plan on replacing front & rear hydraulic disc calipers and both brake levers. is it easier to work rear to front or front to rear? route hydraulic hose first or what?
>>
>>2003899
This guy is not a fred
>visibly fit
>hairy legs
>shirtless and clipless
>mustache
>bulge
based
>>
>>2004195
>This doesn't support triple chainrings

Derailer capacity is largely meaningless, especially with triple setups.

What happens if you exceed capacity? It means that in your small chainring, when you shift into the smaller cogs, the derailer will not be able to take up the slack, and the chain will rub on the cage.

That doesn't matter. Small+small is not a useful gear, and it doesn't cause any damage if you shift into it by mistake (unlike not having a long enough chain to wrap big+big, which causes your drivetrian to explode).
It would only matter if the bike was being ridden by people/person who refused to understand how their gears work, and that person would hate having a triple and probably not even use the granny.

The 26t granny on my touring bike can't wrap the entire cassette. Never once been even mildly annoyed by it. .
>>
what am I supposed to do after I veer off to the absolute edge of asphalt? if I try to turn normally I go on the grass/dirt and slip/lose control.
>>
>>2004327
slow down before taking that turn?
>>
>>2004325
agreed. I am a chainline snob so when I hear the rear cassette/freewheel getting chewed up I switch front rings.
I run 1x10 on one bike and it's only using that since I have no easy way to mount a FD besides a BB mount, or ISCG 05.

>>2004327
Take it easy bro. On my road bike I slow way down and go mostly straight.
On a mtb you aren't going fast and can easily turn in or out if required.
>>
>>2003899
Are there any competitors to the Surly Bridge Club for touring/bikepacking?
>>
>>2004366
Soma Jawbone, Bassi Hog's Back, Salsa Marrakesh, Panorama Boreal
>>
>>2004366
Fuji Touring exists, but I don't know how it rates
>>
I think I know the answer but still: my bike has gk slicks on with around 3000 km on them. The rear is already puncturing quite often though it does seal always. I am leaving for a +2000km Eurovelo tour in the weekend, should I switch a new tire on the rear already or pack the other tire as spare and see what happens? I've read that the GK slicks don't have a long life, but it seems to be doing it's job still, what could go wrong?
>>
>>2004376
>what could go wrong?
You could puncture both your primary and spare tires 1000km in
>>
>>2004381
he's just as likely to do that if he puts the new tire on before the trip.
>>
I'm looking for a bike I can use for casual use mostly on pavement, flat surfaces and short trips

Do I get a hybrid or single speed ?
>>
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>>2004367
>Panorama Boreal
do people really ride around like this?
>>
>most MTB ads: panders to teenage retards, targets the same psychological demographic as Monster energy drinks and Axe
>most roadie ads: panders to fat dads who think they're going to be srs athletes at tender age of 45
>SRAM ads: Redditors in pastel-walled studio being all "lol awkward," think they're being cool but is about 10 years behind the trend and very cringe
>Shimano ads: Subaru ads but bikes instead of cars

Why is it like this? Why are the marketing strategies and corporate aesthetics so disparate?
>>
>>2004396
some people do when they're touring, yes.
>>
>>2004393
single speed if it's flat and you aren't a hamplanet. hybrid if it's not flat or you are weak/obese.
>>2004398
I don't have a good answer, besides that the mtb ads are the cool ones.
>>
>>2004398
>why are corpos and marketeers out of touch with reality?
gee, I wonder why
>>
>>2004398
because mtb people really are like that, and why shouldn't fat dads want to be more athletic? just goes to show you roadies are better people
>>
>>2004236
its not like a steering wheel, you more push down on the handle bar to turn in that direction
>>
The rear wheel of my old Univega got all wobbly so I went to true it up as best as I could and discovered three broken spokes, all on the drive side. Having discovered that I decided to see if a wheel I've had for something like a decade now because the bike it was supposed to go on got stolen while the wheel was shipping would fit. The bike is a 7 speed rear, but the spare wheel was set to replace an 8 speed rear. I pulled the old and dropped the spare in to see if it would fit and to my surprise it was actually narrower than the 7 speed wheel. I can lock it in, but the frame bends in a bit when I do. Since it's a steel frame, not forged aluminum or anything else that rigid, would that bit of flex be alright? I really would rather be riding on a fresh wheel rather than fixing up the old one if I can.
>>
>>2004449
It's fine, but if there is room on the axle you can always get some axle spacers or DIY them from a washer(kinda annoying).
Sheldon brown has a section on how much axle you want in the dropout.
Ride the fresh one once you get it shifting okay. Then on the old one if the bearings are fine you can always get some spokes later.
>>
>>2004456
Thanks for the info. The axel rod isn't physically long enough, though. Do spacers lengthen that as well?
>>
My front deraileur wouldn't dowshift. I tried to fuck with the H/L screws when a chunky ass pebble fell out. I guestimated original H/L settings back but any chance something got fucked up? Shifts fine now.
>>
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>>2004449
If it's a shit tier wheel that tightens with nuts it's probably ok.
If it uses a quick release skewer (nice wheels), that's pretty sketchy. Those things can snap.

How many mm does the axle protrude past the locknuts? Ie, how much axle is in the dropouts? You don't need much. 1mm is fine. Add a few washers if you can. They don't even need to be behind the locknut, they can be loose on the axle, it just makes wheel installs annoying.

Or get a longer axle.

Or bend the frame with a 2x4. Bending ~2mm each side is pretty easy. Just go really slowly and keep checking. I have done pic rel many times.
>>
>>2004486
If you're not dropping your chain or rubbing or getting bad shifting then it's fine. In your imagination what horrors might this lead to?
>>
>>2004489
I've got about 5-6mm on each side. Guess I'll grab a few washers. I'd rather avoid taking a level to the frame if at all possible, though.
>>
Does anyone ever take photos? I do long road rides and sometimes try to take a selfie with something, all I got are shitty pics of my head. Wat do
>>
>>2004503
I bring my Minolta X-570 or Praktica MTL-50 in a handlebar bag and snap a shot when I see something cool. I'm not a sixteen year old girl, so I don't take badly composed self portraits with a phone everywhere I go to show myself obstructing whatever fucking thing.
>>
>>2004503
the daily ride thread and touring thread are full of them
>>
>>2004503
get a selfie stick
>>
>>2004506
1x uhh no thanks I use a 3x sugino crankset with a modified 8 speed campagnolo Euclid rear derailuler shifting a 7 speed shimano Xt cassette on a white industries artisan hub
For controls I'm using some beautiful vintage mavic friction shifters they only made for 6 months in 1989 with an velo orange stem mount and non aero diacompe levers and $500 dual pivot roller cam panhard linkage brakes from Paul's components
>>
>>2004486
i fixed this permanently by switching to a 1x setup. narrow-wide front chainring, 52t, patrician tier.
>>
I can't be the only one who sees selfies as a sign of, at the very least, extreme narcissism.

We've all seen the meme mens holiday snaps vs womens holiday snaps, where all the mens snaps are of the place, the scenery, wildlife, architecture, sun setting on the ocean etc, and all the womens are of the same things except with their stupid faces dominatiung the frame.

It's fucking bizarre when men do it, it's up there with the onions grin in terms of red flag behaviours, nothing wrong with appearing in a photo taken by someone else, but selfies are retarded.
>>
>>2004540
meant for
>>2004503
>>2004517
>>
I was looking for belt drive ebike commuters and found this Tenways
https://www.tenways.com/products/cgo600-pro

It's only 1 speed though.
>>
>>2004525
I want to take decent photos so I take a decent camera with decent glass instead of fumbling with a smart phone and taking a dipshit picture of my head. Neither of those cameras is more than about $100-150. You're tilting at windmills, brother.
>>
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i bought a puch alpine from a second hand shop recently and i'd like to get it road-worthy. it looks quite old, 1980s or earlier i think
if i wanted to replace the wheels, what size ones should i buy for it? currently, the bike has wheels of size 27x1¼ and the tyres on it are 32-630. the tyres need replaced, the sidewalls are cracked
i have no idea what i'm doing
pic isn't my bike, but looks just the same
>>
>>2004552
also, if this is a heap of junk not worth doing anything with, please let me know
>>
>>2004552
>32x630
32mm thick tires are about as good as you’re gonna get on a road bike, but 630mm bead seat diameter is on outdated size according to the holy Sheldon Brown, so you’ll probably have a tough time finding tires. Replacing the whole rim+tire with a modern size is an option but very expensive and you might need new brakes to reach the new rim size
>>
>>2004552
It's okay, but bordering on junk/BSO.
The cottered crank, stamped dropouts, and probably steel seatpost+630mm wheels(27in) show that.
I would get new 27in tires, like panaracer paselas and ride. If you really like the bike go upgrade to 700c, but you might need new brakes for that.
>>
>>2004552
>the tyres need replaced, the sidewalls are cracked
ok, but why do you want to replace the wheels?

it's cool that the frame and fork accept 32mm wide tires. they give good shock absorbtion without being sluggish. you may even be able to go wider, but 32 is good.

the pic you posted looks like someone put 700c wheels on, slightly smaller diameter but that's what became standard for road bikes. see how there's a lot of space between the seat tube and the rear wheel? and the brake pads are slid all the way down in the arm? that shows it's probably the smaller 700c wheels. if you do replace the wheels, you should probably get 700c size just because that's more standard and every single tire comes in that size, but there's nothing wrong with keeping the 27s, my daily bike came with them and I still ride them, still good tires made for them.
the components on it are low tier department store type of stuff. the pic has a cottered crank with riveted gears, so the gears aren't replaceable without changing the whole crank.
but, if your crank and gears are in good shape, then it's fine. you really need to post pics of your actual bike before we can tell you anything useful.
I'm also curious about the crest-shaped decal above the shifters. could you post it?
>>
Got a new bike that is in kinda rough shape. What things should I do to it? (non specific).
It also does have specific problems:
>one of the front brake pads touches the rim even when brake not engaged
>shifter doesn't actuate the cable
>>
>>2004566
adjust front brake balance. If side pull caliper undo bolt/nut behind fork, spin so it's even gappage between brake pads, clamp.
Also adjust pads so they don't hit tire.
>shifter issues
spray with penetrant, and cycle shifter while doing it.
Non specific fixes?
grease things if they need it, lube cables, adjust brakes, make sure stem bolts are tight.
Go on test ride, make sure tires don't have a bulge at operating pressure.
>>
>>2004566
>front brake pads touches
service and adjust the brake
>>2004566
>shifter doesn't actuate the cable
could be the shifter is gunky or too tight or broken, could be the cable/housing is kinked or rusted/seized, could be the derailleur is gunked up, misadjusted, broken. could be a combination.
most likely cable/housing. may be able to oil it, may need replacement.

use op links
>>
i currently have an 11-30 cassette, are all 11-34 cassettes compatible with my derailleur? i want to get one with a big jump in the lowest gear like pic related, will that fuck it up?
>>
>>2004579
If your derailleur is maxed out at the 30 tooth then no, it can't cope.
If your derailleur+cassette is stock then yeah 34tooth should be fine. generally big jumps take longer on the shift but give you tighter spacing on the other cogs.
Good for "bailing out" your ass on big hills.
>>
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I have a weird shaped head that's wide at the top. I've not found a bike helmet that fits me properly. Are there any out there for someone like me?
>>
>>2004581
Go to a bike store and set the helmets on your head.
>>
>>2004579
I have a 6 speed megarange and I love it, but it took a long time to get used to the big jump to 34.

I had to get a long cage derailleur but I was running a short cage maxed at 26 before, iirc
>>
>>2004572
>>2004569
>shifter
It doesn't even more the cable and the leavers move without any resistance compared to the functioning shifter.
Question about cables, what should I do if I notice rust on them?
Also what useful services do bike shops offer? Will they inspect the bike and tell me what the problem areas are and I can then see what I can fix for myself?
>>2004569
>stem bolts
There's some rust on these too, what do?
>>
>>2004506
That's my dream this summer, wanna get a cheap dslr and ride around at night and take cool pics of whatever I see that catches my eye.
>>
>>2004596
>the leavers move without any resistance compared to the functioning shifter

uhh, the lever *is* the shifter. do you mean derailleur? I can't parse this paragraph at all

light surface rust isn't a worry. heavy, flaking rust that pits the metal is trouble
>>
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Are cafe locks a meme? Is it worth getting one just for that extra layer of mitigation?
>>
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>>2004584
freewheel bros....
>>2004596
Your derailleur probably moves, but the shifter isn't pulling the cable. I would remove the cable housing from your bike, pull it to expose the rusty cable, and hit it with steel wool, scotchbrit/scuff pad, or lightly with sand paper.
The rust makes shifting harder.
Then douse the shifter(on the bar) internals with a penetrant to see if it starts pulling cable. If not it's over for that shifter most likely.


Bike shops mostly want the work, but take the fastest and cheapest way, which would be either lube cables+new shifter. Not sure tbqh since I never go to them.
Rusty stem bolts I would remove, and hit with my wire wheel on the grinder, or steel wool, or sand paper.
The allen inside I use a dremel with steel wool, but you could use a screwdriver and wrap the wool on the tip, insert and spin it around to "scrub" the rust away.
As the other anon said that's just a superficial thing, NBD really but I like my bikes looking good.
>>
>>2004396
What the fuck mannnn
>>
>>2004396
I imagine people go to the grocery store with those bikes.
>>
>>2004503
>Does anyone ever take photos?
Good photos and videos of bike riding are taken by someone else.
You need friends.
>>
>>2004540
>I can't be the only one who sees selfies as a sign of, at the very least, extreme narcissism.
nah. 99% of photos without a subject are absolutely pointless. A person is a good subject.
>>
>>2004552
this is a heap of junk not worth doing anything with
>>
>>2004597
Can't recommend it enough, good luck and godspeed anon
>>
>>2004626
Any recs on cams? Something decent enough but not too expensive to where I'm going to cry over it breaking while riding? (buying used)
>>
>>2004600
>uhh, the lever *is* the shifter. do you mean derailleur? I can't parse this paragraph at all
As in the shifter on the handlebars has two levers for shifting as oppose to the ones where you rotate it. For the one that works you can feel the levers have some resistance and they're pulling something, whereas for the non functioning one they just move freely. So my guess is that it's probably something from within there.
>>
Why would the Bike company take part in this, when the whole joke is laughing at what shitty bikes they make?

https://youtu.be/dHldx3Rg9_k?si=8Wm6HztL9wK9fJl3
>>
How big of a deal is cleaning my Pedal bearings? I've had these pedals for a year and never maintained them, and they feel good.
>>
I am a retard trying to assemble a bike. The instructions say to insert the front wheel but because of the brake things the axle can’t reach the fork end slots. Am I supposed to loosen or remove these things somehow? The basic instructions and more detailed instructions make no mention of this or how to go about it. I assume I could just loosen that screw on the end there but I don’t want to make a mess of things
>>
>>2004647
Most low to mid tier pedals are built with sealed bearings. They're not meant to be serviced, you ride them until they're worn out and then you get a new pair.
How much you need to clean bearings on more expensive pedals depends on how much abuse you put them through and how long you want them to last before replacing the bearings. How often do you clean other bearings on your bike? Take that as a rough estimate to the answer to your question.
>>
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>>2004654
Unhook the noodle from the brake arm, put wheel on, and hook the noodle back on.
>>
>>2004659
How would I unhook it? I can’t seem to work it out
>>
>>2004661
Ok I managed to get it unhooked hopefully I can put it back without as much hassle
>>
>>2004661
>>2004662
Pull the noodle out of the hinged plate thing and pass the cable through the slit in the plate. It should not be difficult.
>>
>>2004665
I'm just dumb so it was pretty hard but all seems to be done. Thanks anon, wouldn't have figured it out without you.

I'll give it a try when it's morning and hopefully it's functioning. I tried rolling it around inside and it seemed ok apart from needing to retighten the handlebars a few times but hopefully it sticks this time. It is pretty damn tight with the screwdriver so I was surprised it moved but I guess it needed to be extremely, extremely tight
>>
>>2004642
I just shoot old film SLRs, but if I were to go digital I'd be looking for a used Nikon d700 or d810 if I could find one cheapish. Canon also has some backwards compatibility with film era lenses, so maybe a mid-2000s EOS body would be worth a look too.
>>
>>2004643
>As in the shifter on the handlebars has two levers
ok, you have a front shifter that moves the front derailleur on the crank. you have a rear shifter that shifts the rear derailleur on the wheel. just because they're attached to something clamped to your handlebar doesn't mean that bit is called the shifter. the levers are the shifters.

the one that doesn't work sounds like either the cable is broken inside the housing, or it isn't clamped down at the far end to its respective derailleur.

look at the derailleur for the shifter that works and note how the cable is clamped to a place on it. now look at the other derailleur. the cable should be coming out of a piece of housing on the back. the front one, you may have to follow the routing with your eye and under the frame to find where it is if it isn't attached. if it isn't bolted down, that's your problem. follow op park link and type front or rear derailleur into search and click the one for "installation" and after that do the one for adjustments. if the cable IS clamped, then it's probably snapped inside the housing. unbolt that end and pull it out, you may have a hard time if it's rusted but that should be the problem. the other end has a bit that fits into the shifter that you can grip to pull it out, then match that bit to the replacement cable, it has to match the hole on the shifter
>>
>>2004646
I guess because they explained that it was outdated geo and linkage "from the era", as in, all the bikes back then sucked, not just that brand. which is somewhat true, I guess.
also, this is higher profile product placement than they ever get, and it was free. no such thing as bad publicity.
anyway, I thought it was hilarious. the spoke thing, you could see that it broke the mechanics brain.
>>
>>2004647
I ride loose bearing pedals and my maintenance on them can be measured in decades, not a year. even if you have cartridge bearings, I'm pretty sure you're good
>>
>>2004743
oh and if it snapped, that's because it rusted through which means the housing , if its the steel coil in plastic type, is equally rusted and fucked . buy some new shift housing along with the cable. you can get kits that come with enough for front and rear, just do both while you're at it since the original ones are the same age and the working one is probably in rough shape, too.
not a bad idea to check the brake cables, too.
>>
>>2004743
>>2004643

I just thought of: if it's clamped but there's a ton of slack in the cable, unbolt and pull the slack out and rebolt.
it may be as simple as that
>>
Hey
I am looking to switch out my old suspension forks for some rigids.

It's a 18'' frame with 26'' wheels, suspension fork axle to crown is 440mm with 80mm travel.

What a-c length should I look for with the rigids?

I know there's some tolerance each way, so what would be the max and min lengths to increase my chances of finding something that will work?
>>
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my crank snapped
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how can i easily tell if i have a short or long cage derailleur? is pic related long cage?
>>
>>2004777
long cage
>>
>>2004777
Is the cage long or short
>>
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I'm an easily impressed retard, and I want to drop $6,500 on a Cannondale Scalpel after watching this.
>>
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Should a seatpost shim go under or above the seatpost clamp? I'm finding conflicting answers on the internets.
Also do I align the slit in the shim with the one in the frame or should I reverse it? Aligning it seems like inviting dirt inside so it can start clicking and creaking after the first ride.
>>
>>2004798
Slit in the shim against the slit in the clamp/seattube. You want it to close easily when you tighten the clamp, and the clamp tightens where the bolt/qr is the most.

Your seatpost shim should have a ridge at the top that sits against the clamp, that would hold it from going too far down.
Otherwise I would install with it slightly visible like the bottom left picture.
>>
Ok I know it might sound super retarded but is there any gravel/bikepacking specific helmet? As in a road cycling helmet but with a little more side and back of the head coverage, without weighing a ton and good ventilation?
>>
>>2004805
xc mtb helmet
>>
Is this thing better than the "HG" freehub style? I'd assume so because it looks like the cassette is screwed onto it like a frewheel, so that when you pedal it gets tighter instead of making all sorts of crunking noises because of sloppy tolerances
>>
>>2004822
It literally just exists to fit 10 tooth
>>
>>2004822
the older hg design is superior unless you NEED the 10 tooth
>>
>>2004805
If you can spare the cash the best helmet you can get currently is a 'Met Trenta 3K Carbon Mips'.
It's the lightest, offers good protection, is very comfortable, especially when it's hot as the ventilation and relatively few points of contact with the skull mean great ventilation.

I grabbed one in a sale for £95 a few months back, but they can cost up to £300
>>
>>2004779
>>2004781
i've decided to just get an identical cassette to my current one so i don't need to adjust it, what's the difference between the TX CS-HG200 and the ALTUS CS-HG31? they seem completely identical but i obviously want to be getting the 'better' one. i can't seem to find this info anywhere, probably because they're lower tier parts.
>>
>>2004883
>CS-HG200
9-speed
>CS-HG31
8-speed
>they seem completely identical
You suck at googling
>>
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when they say "a fit cyclist has a power equivalent of around 700 watts" do they mean while sitting on the saddle or does this include standing in the pedals with full body weight applied?
>>
>>2004892
i appreciate the condecension but the CS-HG200 definitely comes in 7 and 8 speed versions as well. since you're way better at googling than me please find the difference between the 8 speed version of either.
>>
>>2004503
id just prop my phone up against something and use the timer on the camera. you can use your saddle but then the bike wont be in the pic. but yeah i would just try to find something at waist level or able to rest the phone on when taking a picture
>>
>>2004896
https://phycbqxcopzgcmj6yj6xdbogki0wsiwo.lambda-url.ap-northeast-1.on.aws/en/product/CS-HG200-8
https://phycbqxcopzgcmj6yj6xdbogki0wsiwo.lambda-url.ap-northeast-1.on.aws/en/product/CS-HG31-8
According to Shimano spec sheets the difference is gearing range and material coating. I'm assuming the latter has to do with corrosion resistance.
A note of interest is that I don't seem to find any mention of HG31 on Shimanos EU product marketing site.
>>
>>2004540
imagine being 90 years old and not being able to look back at pics of your younger self with your grandkids
>>
>>2004894
Wattage is a per-second measurement, it’s all about average over a given amount of time. Your body weight is included, but after half a second you have to lift yourself back up anyways. “Instantaneous power” is an oxymoron.
“Sustainable” max power should be able to be held for over an hour nonstop
>>
>>2004927
I see. thanks!
>>
>>2004931
Most people can put out a single “1000W” kick but holding an average power over time is what’s tough, 200W sustainable power/FTP is a pretty strong rider
>>
>>2004896
one is made in singapore the other in chyna
>>
>>2004906
>>2004933
thank you, i assume the phosphate coating is better than the painted coating?
>>
>>2004937
*sigh*
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosphate_conversion_coating
Well, I'm learning stuff myself so I shouldn't complain. But really, you should learn to find information on the internet for yourself.
>>
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I'm a complete beginner learning how to ride, can someone explain what might be the issue here? my bike chain keeps slipping off the chainrings on the lower gears, and when I ride on high gears it slips back a bit before orienting itself on the ring it was on. Today when I tested it out it was giving me the same issues except the chain looks like it's gotten worse
>>
>>2004938
cool wiki link, but there's nothing in there that says if it's better or worse than a painted coating at durability or corrosion resistance.
>>2004940
either the front derailleur need adjusting or the chain/teeth are worn down, or both.
>>
>>2004940
Do you mean slipping off the chainrings, or the rear sprockets/cogs?
If either is occuring, particularly under power maybe check your chain for wear. If she is blown out that would be the issue.
You can use a ruler/tape measure Park tool has a video on this.


Another reason chains can slip off rear cogs is a misaligned rear derailleur.
>>
>>2004941
>>2004942
gentlemen
I have isolated the problem
>>
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>>2004941
shoot.......... I don't have any money to get any parts or pieces repaired...
>>2004942
The chain slips off the things the red arrow is pointing too if i have it on the easier to pedal gears. If I have it on harder to pedal gears it slips one or two but eventually gets back on the one it was originally on.

I'll look up a guide to see if it's misaligned and check if the gear chain looks worn
>>
>>2004940
uhh your rear derailleur is missing a pulley
>>
>>2004945
oh shit thanks I'll try to look into getting one and installing it I really appreciate the insight
>>
>>2004943
>>2004944
nvm i wasn't looking properly, like anon says you're missing a pulley wheel, that's why it's skipping and hanging loose.
>>
>>2004949
Thank you!
>>
>>2004940
>LL Bean
intredasting.
is this an "LL Bean edition" by Trek, Giant, or etc, or is the bike completely branded LL Bean?
I don't think it's a cheap "BSO" like a lot of marketing gimmick bikes back then because the Altus derailleur -- although nothing special -- is several tiers above what a BSO would have had.
can we see the whole thing?
>>
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>>2004952
I'm not sure what model it is, I forgot where I put the manual but here's a photo
>>
>>2004954
huh, it's a standard low/midrange 80s/early 90s mtb similar to ones pretty much every mfr made back then.
after searching a bit, people are claiming it's a rebranded Specialized Hardrock. pretty cool, reliable and fairly decent bike
>>
Has anyone experienced with making their own powder fuel for riding? Yeah I know, eating real food is good, but you can only get so much into your stomach when you're trying to go a distance. I even use the stuff for recreational 2h rides these days just because I feel less tired afterwards.
I'm not a cheapskate so it costing a bit is not the issue, but I kinda don't know what else they put in there.
>>
>>2004393
Single speed with bullhorns and bar end levers is peak for me.
>>
My bidon top keeps closing when I drink from it, not allowing the air back in. Wut do.
>>
>>2004973
i think you're supposed to squeeze some while drinking
>>
>>2004974
I squeeze, water squirts, I stop, bottle=)(
>>
>>2004943
>>2004945
>>
>>2004964
table sugar, sodium citrate (less salty-tasting than table salt and maybe easier on the stomach), gatorade powder for flavor. sinple.
>>
>>2004964
nestea mix, light salt (potassium salt), table salt, sugar. some people use
I match the ratios used in gatoraid.
sometimes I cold brew a bunch of tea bags to make a tea concentrate and use some of that and add a bit of citric acid.
some people use dextrose, its essentially sugar but less sweet.
>>
>>2004973
are you keeping it upside down when you release the squeeze? try turning it upright
>>
>>2004964
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oral_rehydration_therapy#Reduced-osmolarity
>>
>>2004883
>i've decided to just get an identical cassette to my current one so i don't need to adjust it
I'm sorry to say this anon, but you will want to adjust it anyway. 'Identical' cassettes can often sit slightly differently.
You would possibly get away with it but not adjusting your derailer again after changing a cassette is crazy.

You also want to take your cage apart and deep clean your jockey wheels, and obviously, change the chain.

As for which cassette is 'nicer', the higher numbers are nicer. You don't need to research it. 2 is prob gonna be tourney level and 3 will be altus or something like that.

I wouldn't say that it particularly matters though. I would just try to buy a shiny silver one.
>>
will using a 10s chain on a 9 speed drivetrain cause better shifting, worse, or no difference? assuming it is indexed properly.
>>
>>2005013
no serious difference.
modern chains got thinner on the outside as they went up in speeds, so a 10 speed chain should fit the cogs fine, just a little bit thinner.
If you have a spare or got it cheap send it.
>>
>>2005013
worse/ no difference and it's a waste of money.
>>
>>2005013
Worse. The chonky chain is better.
>>
>>2004964
I do. I got bulk maltodextrin powder as my glucose source, it was like 5 bucks a pound. Right now I use a about half a gram of salt, a 0 cal generic gatorade for flavor, and about 20 grams of the maltodextrin. I typically only use it if I know I am going to be riding more or harder. I also know from experience that if I consume more than that especially on short rides where I didn't really need it that it rots in my stomach, very gassy. Recovered, but gassy. My solution is I just carry more of it with me when I go out riding, I'd rather refill a bottle and dump some more in as I go. I found some generic spice tube things and that allows me to carry a couple of 50ml tubes, perfect for a bottle's worth and they fit in any jersey pocket or bike bag.
>>
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>>2004964
>Has anyone experienced with making their own powder fuel for riding?
I think I made cookies once or twice. They were not bad.
>>
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>>2004835
Cassette digs into the hub body like it's nobody's business, and as it does it, it makes every sort of loud metal crunking and crunching sound
>>
>>2005076
most of the bikes on /n/ ride cassettes, and yet nobody ever mentions this kind of damage.
I've certainly never seen it on any of my cassettes.
pretty sure your pic is the result of top athletes putting down sik watts, or neglect, or both.
>>
>>2005076
I don't have loose cog cassettes.
I can pull shit out of my ass if I wanted about the pictures of wobbly sram xdr cassettes
>>
>>2005076
Do the lock ring up tighter
>>
>>2004994
thank you anon, i wound up getting the hg31.
>I would just try to buy a shiny silver one.
i'll be honest with you, i only got a black one because it would look nice with a complete black drivetrain and new golden chain. i'm putting it on my new wheelset, which makes it easy to exchange with my old one without even having to take the old cassette off.
>>
My disc brakes sound a bit like a coffee percolator. What could this be? Once it rained and later that day there was no sound, but then 1 day later it was back
>>
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>>2005104
i think i know what you mean, a kind of underwater sound? they usually just need some brake silencer and/or adjustment/trueing.
>>
>>2005082
different wheels will almost certainly throw your limit screws off btw
>>
>>2005076
This doesn't matter though. I've seen it a bunch but never actually encountered any problems caused by it. Certainly never heard it.
Campy/fulcrum/mavic freehubs seem worse affected than shimano.

Freehub splines should be lightly greased, as should the thread of the lockring. This mitigates the damage.

Also sometimes you want to put a thin spacer behind a cassette because it or the freehub are not in spec so you can never get them completely tight. I think that's the reason why you see damage like in your pic. It's been ridden loose. Lots of bikes have cassettes that jangle a bit for that reason. People go by the book which says things work but things don't always work and you have to be a little flexible.

Really, it's a non-issue.
>>
if a shrader valve leaks after the tube is filled a certain amount is it DOA? no matter how much I pump I cant get past 20 and it will leak until nearly empty after that. I already made sure the little plate inside was turned clockwise.
>>
>>2005125
Yeah. If it's new i'd assume you pinched it on install.

>I already made sure the little plate inside was turned clockwise.
um, what? You mean a presta valve?
>>
>>2005144
no I saw some video where a guy said to turn the little plate to the right inside a schrader valve if it leaks, I didn't install the tube, it came with the bike (trek MTB), it just one day started leaking and there's no air leak I can find anywhere on the tube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HJqAg_lwpCE
>>
>>2005081
That’s not how it works. The real solution is steel-reinforced aluminum cassette carriers, or full-steel ones, or cassettes that have a solid spider themselves
>>
>>2005104
Disc brakes make a lot of noises, but a coffee percolator? Something’s gotta be loose or maybe there’s sand stuck somewhere
>>
Is this too little clearance for hard pack and loose.That finger is slightly squeezed.

Alloy giant revolt with 53mm clearance (questioned by some) running 2.1" (53.34 millimeters) mtb tyres.
>>
>>2005159
I’ve been running this for like a year now in dry loose dusty no issues
>>
>>2005159
It's fine. If you hear rubbing later you will know what's up.
>>
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>>2005160
Wait no that was the 2.25”, heres the 2.0”
>>
>>2005162
Oh neat. Thanks bro. How much clearance do you have formally?
I might run 2.1" schwalbe rapid robs then over the more aggresive smart sams pictures. Slighlty smaller shoulder knob.

11 mtb tyres over 40 euro gravel specific tyres are quite enticing.

>>2005160
small loose or bigger chunks as well?
>>
>>2005163
The fork is rated for up to 50mm tires without fenders, which is equal to 2.0” so second photo is official recommendation. I don’t have a ruler with millimeters within arms reach so I don’t know the actual gap. I think big but less knobby tires is a good move, it’s all about how big of a pebble the tire can grab and hang on to and scratch something imo, and these rekon race/ikon tires don’t grab pebbles very bad at all, the dry dustyness helps though, I haven’t ridden this through mud really
>>
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My carbon fork fell over quite hard and a tiny bit of the quick release area got chipped off. Can I still ride it or what should I do?
Sorry for the bad image quality it is the best I can do.
>>
>>2005181
>carbon asplosions
QR's work by clamping the hub to the fork, and the fork sitting on the axle. Some forks have tabs to help retention(lawyer lips). I would monitor it and just do some short local rides first, maybe do a bunch of open and closes on the QR.
For your peace of mind it may be better to get another fork.
>>
>>2005194
My bike is pretty much running on last legs with crankset making funny noise when I pedal, the gear hopping and the whole frame creaking. I am going to buy a new bike and this time a better bike that is a bit more expensive but looks solid
>>
>>2005198
That works great. If you do spend more try and keep up with maintenance too since gear hopping and frame creaking generally is due to lack of maintenance..... and shit bikes.
>>
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About a year ago, I got this early 90s GT bike with 7 speed XT, I've been enjoying riding it around and I feel like it fits me about perfect and if it disappears, it won't be the end of the world since I have so little invested, so I find myself riding more than I did with my road bike. Recently the rear derailleur of the GT fell apart and the mismatched cantis have been giving me trouble. I found this circa 1995 Rockhopper with little signs of use and 7 speed STX at the thrift store for $20 (ready to ride except for a shitty stem, saddle, and broken grip shifts). Both bikes are about the same size, so I figure I could swap parts between either one to make one good around town bike that fits me. I'm inclined to put the STX parts on the GT, but I could go either way. At the end of the day they're both low end aluminum frames without replaceable derailleur hangers, what say you /n/? Is there anything I may have overlooked here (I promise to lovingly hoard any good left over parts in my basement) Pic of the Rockhopper to follow.
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>>2005243
And here is the Rockhopper. The ugly SIS derailleur on the GT icks me out.
>>
>>2005246
Purple is a better color but the specialized front fork seems to be in better shape not "sagged" out. Your call.
>>
>>2005249

Yeah, I think the purple and GT's frame design make it the winner for me unless there is something I'm missing here. The fork on the GT is not sagged out, it just has a tiny amount of travel. My research says the components on the GT are older like 1990 or 91 than the frame and the stem and handlebars are Haro, so I think someone may have broken the original frame and moved the parts to the GT.

Middle school me would have killed for either bike, so it feels kind of dirty stripping a mostly complete one basically on a whim
>>
>>2005243
>they're both low end aluminum frames
I've never heard of an aluminum rockhopper?
anyway I'd put the coolest stuff on the gt but I don't have any positive information about which one is objectively better. like you say they're comparable and that purple is fuckin sick and in great shape
>>
>>2005243
>>2005246
>keep moving components between bikes
>frequently need to re-cable
>end up spending more money on cable and cable housing than if I just bought another reasonable set of used Deore derailleurs off eBay

Don't be like me. Or, be like me. Whatever. It hardly matters.
>>
What, next you’re gonna tell me rockhoppers are made out of steel or something?
>>
>>2005257

I do have a bad habit of moving stuff around. Part of what I like about cantis and 7 speed is there is no easy upgrade path without a ton of effort since all the "good" parts have been out of production for 30 years.

I stopped by Wal-Mart and bought a new set of cables and housing for $10, hope they don't suck. I'll rebuild the rockhopper with other parts as they come.
>>
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I've only ever bought shitty bike lights. Whats a good durable bike light that is not expensive for the sake of being expensive?
>>
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Can someone redpill me on pinarello? I have a probably uninformed view of them as massively overpriced, uncomfortable, fragile, and favored by people who are sort of cluelessly snobby. But I've been seeing a lot of them lately, is there something good about them? Am I sleeping on this brand because it's unfairly stigmatized?
>>
>>2005267
Usually what kills my lights is water getting in around the charging port, even with the rubber plug/seal thing. Since I started putting electrical tape over the charging ports my lights have lasted a lot longer. Mostly a bontrager ion fan.
>>
>>2005272
Historically bikes that won many races. I have an old steel one I want to ride, and so far out of my steel bikes I like the Italian ones the most.

I don't know much about the modern ones. Unless you ride one that fits it's hard to say how good, or bad a bike is(imo). Most modern bikes are overpriced anyways.
>>2005267
I like niterider lumina's
>>
>>2005275
Yeah I know they have a history but I mean their modern bikes. I happen to disagree that most modern bikes are overpriced, though some certainly are.
>>
>>2005267
i also have a niterider. good stuff.
>>
>>2005277
Well hopefully someone can help you out. I just know with bikes until you ride one, or enough of them it's hard to know if you even like it or not.
>>
>>2005272
It used to be owned by a private hedge fund controlled by the guy who owns Louis Vuitton. They did the same marketing shit they do for overpriced designer handbags and wristwatches to shill Pinarello.

They've since sold it, and it's now owned by the guy who is the largest shareholder of the biggest polluter of drinking water sources in the world.
>>
>>2005243
>At the end of the day they're both low end aluminum frames without replaceable derailleur hangers

That's not a sign that they're low end, just that they're old. Old Kleins are like that too. Replaceable derailer hangers weren't really a thing yet.

I really like that STX stuff, the smoke finish is cool, but the XT crankset is significantly lighter, the crank arms, and the STX has steel chainrings without an inner spider for the granny.
The 'better' crank is on condition of the chainrings and they aren't interchangeable, but still. The bike you prioritize should get the XT crank if it's useable, even if it pairs with STX rest.

The cantis are pretty much the same just with different finishes.

Imo the place to start would be buying some cone spanners and servicing all of the hubs and see which have non-worn bearings and then knowing which nice wheelsets you have.

That purple frame is really cool imo, although i hate how the rear brake stop works. I normally prefer cantis but would consider swapping to vs on a configuration like that.

The fork looks more fucked on the GT. Are they the same length? You could swap them round. You also might be able to get new elastomers and rebuild either one, or better yet, try find a cheap used rigid fork.
Think they're both 1 1/8"
>>
>>2005255
>I've never heard of an aluminum rockhopper?
Rockhopper has been specialized's mid range mtb model for ever, even now. Most of them are aluminium.
>>
>>2005267
Newboler LIG113 on aliexpress is pretty nice, although, it's a fixed mount, so not appropriate if you wanted to swap it around between bikes.
>>
>>2005272
Pinarello hatred is because of the Sky Vroom era which was like 10 years ago. British wankers dominated cycling and made all the races boring by clinically driving a fast pace with a train of strong riders and eliminating the chance of attacks and then off the front would go Vroom etc and win everything. They also really pushed the marginal gains idea and bought low gears high cadence firmly into the peleton which was good for cycling allround.

In retrospect the riders were actually quite charming, but British supporters of anything are not (actually, their obnoxious villainy in most sports is a thankless task which is good for the drama and which you miss when it's gone).

That dominance role has long been taken up by the dutch yellow Jumbo team and it's not as bad now as Pogacar and others challenge them.

Sky seems like a long time ago (now Ineos) and the brand hatred for Pinarello too has dissipated.

Previously Pinarello had pink german Team Telekom who were badass hardmen and before that it was just a classy Italian marque. The contrast between sexy italian and fat british freds was quite jarring. The modern swoopy lines those bikes have now are very garish but that has always been part of the italian aesthetic.

It's a bit like TREK after the Lance era. There is a bit of pie on their face.
Personally I would much rather have a Colnago or De Rosa or something but if you found a good deal and a colour you like, sure.
>>
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>>2005272
The last steel bike to win the tour was a Pinarello

I'm not sure if Colnago would have agreed to do Indurain's fredtube.
>>
>>2005289
This is what I come here for
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>>2005287
>Most of them are aluminium.
yeah, well the one he's got ain't
>>
>>2005290
if i posted this steerer stack in pybt i would get roasted
>>
>>2005292
I'm pretty sure it is. You don't see that style of dropout or the weld (gusset?) under the downtube cable stops on a steel frame.

also note the complete absence of superficial rust.

hell he can get a magnet out and tell us. Maybe i'm wrong.
>>
>>2005293
Pretty sure I have posted a bike that had a similar reasonable fit.
>>2005292
Pretty sure the silver one is aluminum. The massive tubing, massive welds common on aluminum bikes.
The specialized a1 symobl is I think for aluminum.
>>
>>2005273
>>2005275
>>2005278
>>2005288
thanks i think I'll go with the niterider. Are the cheap swift models decent? I can afford the $100 light but rather not go there.
>>
>>2005302
Probably. I use a lumina 750 or 900 on the lowest setting
>>
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>>2005292
OP here, it is aluminum as other anons have said
>>
>>2005286

Thanks for the kind words anon. You're right on the money about repacking my hubs...the GT rear wheel is getting loose. I've got my wrenches but have been putting it off.

I love the XT crank, but the STX looks so cool and I like the idea of everything matching, i think I might pop both off and feel the weight in my hand to decide between function and my vanity.

My preference would be to have no suspension at all, I can barely stand to ride my newer yeti full suspension on the road, but this fork doesn't move much at all and has 50mm of travel so I don't think I would get benefit from messing with it.


Much appreciate you taking the time to reply
>>
Bought a power meter and tested it out. It said I was doing a 26kmph on a straight and flat road. Out of nowhere an e-biker was riding quite fast and passed me easily. I wanted to try to catch-up or pass him but even when reaching 34kmph I couldn't get close to him. By law the max speed of an e-bike is 25kmph and he didn't even pedal that much and flew away...what gives? Are power meters a scam?
>>
>>2005336
>ebiker
>following the rules
pick one.
no idea about the power meter i've never tried one.
>>
>>2005336
Rule 1 that every electrotranny follows is to have the bike "chipped", meaning remove the speed limit and make it go as fast as it physically can.
They regularly go about 50kmph where I'm from.
>>
>>2005355
>They regularly go about 50kmph where I'm from.
Holy shit... I could only muster 45kmph at max with no bags on me and no wind...
>>
>>2005355
Fifty thousand miles an hour sounds awfully fast.
>>
>>2005267
I just got the YANRI 1500 lumen shitty chinesium front/rear set for 30 bucks on Amazon to replace a decade-old Planet Bike rear light that fell off and have been pretty happy with em. The front light can also act as a power brick to charge my phone, it's bright as hell, has survived riding through two rainstorms and it's got a metal case. The rear is reasonably bright and has like five fucking obnoxious flash modes.
>>
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>>2005290
Those bikes were custom they just had pinarello branding.
>>
>>2005426
Seems like that's a common thing or at least was. Wasn't both Huffy and Schwinn doing that shit too?
>>
got a mistery on my hands.
brand new decathlon tube let's all pressure out overnight.
let's out pressure in an hour too.
took it out, put a little air, submerged the valve, no bubbles.
rubbed the whole thing with soap, no bubbles.

how the fuck do i figure out what happened? do i put more pressure in and test again? i dont want to explode it without a tire on
>>
>>2005441
I would try installing tube in tire on rim, inflating to normal pressure, and listening for a leak.
Otherwise try a little more pressure in the tub+water.
tbqh that's a weird one.
Should be a decent leak if it's draining in an hour.
>>
>>2005441
esl or just retarded?
>>
>>2005444
third, actually. but what's your issue tho?

>>2005443
right? weird.
issue is also no tub so..
>>
>>2005441
>submerged the valve, no bubbles.
If it's not the valve that's leaking then there's a puncture somewhere else in the tube.

Or some prankster is letting the air out during the night.
>>
>>2004822
>when you pedal it gets tighter
that's not how it works
>>2005117
I agree it's a non issue unless you're using a shitty freehub body and a shitty cassette together, but I don't see how greasing the splines would help at all.
>>
Is it possible to have like 2x with large cassette at the rear too?
>>
>>2005464
Yes, by either running a large AF derailleur+small 2x difference+normal large cassette.
Look into a wolftooth road link or sunrace variant too if required.
>>
>>2005448
just asking questions
>>
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Having a maddening problem. My chain skips under load, but only on the 11-tooth cog.

I get the skips on the big gear in front, so its clearly not overlong chain.I've tried almost everything, new chain, new cassette adjust limits & indexing both deraileurs & b-screw. (crankset & FD are also new).

However, I am running a jank setup: (11spd) Campy shifters/deraileurs, Shimano cassette (11-28 ultegra), universal chain (wipperman) & chinese powermeter crankset (shimano hollowtech2 style, w/ Ultegra chainrings). This crankset has a limitation that it adds +2.5mm outboard chainline (wider Qfactor).

11speed is fully compatible across companies in my experience and based on online information.

So what is going on with my damn 11speed cog, why is it the only one skipping? I am going insane


Possible answers I've come up with
1) Defective cassette? 2) Weird compatibility issue only affects 11tooth? 3) Is my frame broken and I don't notice? 4) wider chainline should make it better not worse? 5) is the FD veeery slightly rubbing and somehow that drops the chain on the rear?
>>
Freewheel is arriving tomorrow at which point I'll be able to throw my wheel together and mount it up. I've never actually done this before so I see having to remount the old wheel while working out the bugs with the new one as a real possibility, if not likely. That being the case should I test it with the old chain still in place so that if I do have to go back to the original I won't be putting the new chain through the strain of running on the old wheel before finally being able to use the new? Or am I overthinking this whole situation?
>>
>>2005473
you're overthinking it, freewheel has new sprocket on it right? Then new chain would be better on it
>>
>>2005479
Yes, I have the new chain for that purpose, but the worry is that I'll have messed something up and have to switch back to old wheel while I fix it. I don't want the new chain to ever interact with the old cogs, right?
>>
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>>2005443
>>2005450
pumped it a bunch more and listened (had to wait till night cause shits loud)
it was in fact a hole.
not a clue how it got there asninchecked the tire twice, and that makes me worried.
maybe something lodged in the tire and only makes contact when theres weight on wheels.

i pit in a ali tpu tube in got the other day, and it gives me hope for puncture protection though.
>>
>>2005480
It's alright to run a new chain with old sprockets unless it's a really worn sprocket and you run enough mileage for them to wear into each other, then you might run into problems but mostly no.
>>
>>2005472
Your rear derailleur might not be providing enough chain tensioning to keep the chain in place and not slip when you're pedalling hard.
>>
>>2005472
how old is the casette? skipping on a new chain means worn casette. maybe only the 11t cog is worn enough to skip.
>>
>>2005472
could be the derailleur hanger is out of alignment
>>
>>2005472

impossible to e-diagnose because the list of possibilities includes every single component and adjustment with the possible exception of water bottle cage screw torque. I would honestly suggest just getting a new bike, you're going to be trying to figure this one out for the rest of your life otherwise. It could be something like an improperly faced bottom bracket shell
>>
>>2005426
that was a pegoretti??
my boomer neighbor has one of the last ones Dario built himself. Gorgeous bike. He prefers it to his carbon fredsled.

Bikes being built under contract has always been a thing though, it's still a pinarello. Italian marques use/used the same frame building shops at times anyway.
>>
>>2005367
What if I wrote 50km/h?
>>
>>2005545
That would be much more in line with observed physics and reality.
>>
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>>2005497
lol, I had the BB faced recently since it was fucked up (it worked fine with my previous worn campy cassette/chain combo)

>>2005493
brand new. also thanks for the compliment, wearing out only 11th :D

>>2005488
Is there some chain tension diagnostic test? Campy recommends a distance of 8-15mm between the RD and the chain. Unfortunately I can either do sub 7 or 35+ mm, as removing one extra link pushes it out quite a bit. Park tools Calvin says it is usable (picture is pretty much identical to my setup small-small deraileur chain distance https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s6TodcAH948)
>>
Is there any site or place to check on good options for saddle and saddle posts?
>>
Can anyone confirm that a SRAM 900 rear hub would accept a microshift (shimano standard) 10spd cassette? Or would I need a new hub body? Or would it not work at all?
>>
>>2005568
https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/73771/whats-the-difference-between-shimano-hg-and-sram-xd-free-hubs

They're almost certainly not compatible.
>>
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>>2005568
>>2005583

I was asking specifically about the hub and if it would accept a HG hub-body, which would subsequently accept a shimano cassette. But after redpilling myself on hub body standards I found an answer.

The answer is yes, a SRAM 900 hub can accept either a HG or an XD hub body. See pic related, they are sold with either XD or HG hub bodies.
>>
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>>2005596
*Every time I said hub body I meant to say freehub. I'm retarded and just learned about all this.
>>
tfw kind of want to go long distance gravel touring on a carbon road bike with walmart/aliexpreas tier gear after seeing someone else do it even though on an intellectual level you realize that it's stupid and you're admiring resourcefulness and the absence of gear-queering and the combination of high training volume and wanderlust rather than a particular loadout as such
>>
>>2005549
>I can either do sub 7 or 35+ mm
I'm not certain but I think you can tune it with the B screw?
>>
hey does anyone have a link to the archives?
>>
>>2005601
i think id want to go home if it started raining or i needed a poo
>>
>>2005597
>I'm retarded and just learned about all this.
you're not retarded for learning something new, anon.
>>
allright so i'm bulding a wheel on a alexrims md35, dt 350 hub, and dt competition spokes. i got pro lock squorx brass nipples which apparently have a too high top for this rim. the rim doesn't have eyelets either.
would it be a stupid idea to reuse PHR washers from other builds on this rim with a 14 mm nipple so I get about the same length (squorx are 15 mm). this way I dont have to change any spokes.
>>
>>2005481
didn't help for shit.
but i took off the tire again and there was a teeny tiny shard of glass hiding in it. i had to twist and stretch it to see it, fucking glass.

what's a go to poorfag solution for glass on the streets/gravel paths?
>>
Help me troubleshoot an issue I have please.
weird clicking sound when putting power into the pedals, specifically more on the left pedal.
Is my bottom bracket bearings dicked or something? When it clicks I can feel it in my foot.
https://files.catbox.moe/9lg96g.mp4
>>
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>>2004398
>teens and adults wanting to get into MTB are wanting to relive some childhood fun while being active at the same time
>only demographic really able to buy $5k minimum bikes as a hobby/toy are upper/upper-middle class white dads who want to get in shape but also still want to show off how much money they have
>SRAM is still sorta the new guy on the block and wants to target the younger crowd so that as they grow older and stick with the sport they'll just stay in the SRAM ecosystem
>Shimano has their loyalists already (like lesbians with Subarus) and doesnt really have to try much

Its really that simple
>>
>>2005647
How much would you pay to rub chamois cream all over their naked bodies and then watch them scissor for a half hour?
>>
>>2005647
I just never changed. I still think sam pilgrim hucking is cool. I still like green and black.
>>
>>2005649
two white industry track cogs, maybe 17 of them
>>
>>2005649
for tits that flat?
five bucks, tops
>>
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>>2005657
It's just the aero suit, her bobs should jiggle nicely when they're not covered up
>>
>>2005647
>>2005658
who's the other cutie?
>>
>>2005651
based and ramona flowers is still hot
>>
>>2005672
...anon
>>
>>2005646
Anyone?
>>
>>2005613
yes well

>>2005672
kek
>>
>>2005646
That is a generic creak. Check all your parts are tight. Yes, that means the fork, wheels, chainring bolts, etc.
Once that is done Then I would check the crank or other things.

BB gets a lot of shit when it can be something stupid like a loose QR, headset, or chainring bolt.
>>
>>2005646
based on the noise i would usually advise it could be anything, including your seatpost clamp, front derailer, handlebars, a bunch of bizarre shit you think it isn't.

If you can actually feel the click with your foot then it's probably your bb or your pedals. See if you can re create the click by pulling a crank arm hard against your chainstay. Also see if your crank arms have play in them.
Next step would be trying different pedals.
>>
>>2005646
It could also be your chainring bolts or your kickstand.
If your bb doesn't have play, it's rough (drop the chain off onto the inside and spin it to test this), then i would try removing all of the chainring bolts, cleaning them, and greasing the threads, before replacing the bb.
>>
>>2003909
Why did you take a picture from the wrong side?
>>
>>2005647
I like Shimano's video ad for Cues groupset launch. It's very sleek and actually shows people using Cues in a way that gives viewers a good idea of what Cues is.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2cft-syaUhw
>>
>>2005646
First rule of bike maintenance is no, it's not the bottom bracket.

Second rule of bike maintenance is no really, it really isn't, no I don't care what the youtube guy said, it's something else.
>>
>>2005646
I'm assuming you've done this but check your cranks are tight
>>
>>2005719
You dropped your trip bacon
>>
>>2005710
i forgot cues was Di2
>>
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>>2004822
Turns out I did not have a dented freehub, but a loose freehub bearing because the freehub has a hole that is too large (almost 0.1mm) for the bearing, so it made horrible sounds as the back wheel turns. Jammed a piece of can in there and it's now quiet. I think the bearing dug into the freehub body due to vibration from riding on cobblestone.
>>
New thread
>>2005789
>>2005789
>>2005789
>>
>>2004738
>used Nikon d700 or d810 if I could find one cheapish
Bit too clunky for riding around with it I feel, and also a bit more than I want to spend. Do you have recs for something cheaper, maybe around ~100, that also performs decently at night (as in better than phones from a couple of years back)
>>
>>2005829
>>>/p/ will have better recs than I do for light budget digital gear, sorry
>>
>>2005710
this video tells me fuckall about cues and what sets it apart from other groupsets
>>
>>2005927
Btw how do you carry it around while riding?
>>
Trying to fix bike fit issues for my partner who has a bike but never rides it.
Is it safe to take a flat bar fitness style bike and put a riser stem on it to make the fit more upright?
It has a ~100ish mm minimal rise/flat stem and the seat is about level with the flat bar.
Should I go for a 45degree 90mm stem instead or will that scrunch it up too much and instead go for one of those stem risers?
I could maybe also change out the bars for something more relaxed and upright but I'm trying to do it on the cheap
>>
>>2006167
Padded handlebar bag, or a small padded camera bag inside a handlebar bag but that's less convenient
>>
>>2006296
Nice didn't know those were a thing. What about walking around, do you just use a camera bag?



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