Is it possible, or even worth it, to change a bike from drop bars to a "regular" straight bar? I have a fuji jari 2.1 and it's the first bike I've ever used those different styled bars. Honestly, I fucking hate them. I feel very hunched over and uncomfortable most of the time. If I ride with my hands close on the bar, I can't break or shift quickly/if needed in an emergency. It isn't so much that they're uncomfortable, it's a me problem I understand that. I'd probably have to get all new shifters and cables and shit too though I guess which is another expense..

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>>2008924
>possible?
Absolutely. You mentioned you don't like not being able to brake while riding on the bar. There are in-line brake levers which give you an additional position.
>worth it?
Depends on how happy you are with the rest of the bike. As you said you'll need new shifters, brake levers, grips and bar but since you can sell off your old bar and brifters you won't be spending that much.

>>2008924
Maybe you don't hate them, they're just in the wrong place.
Post a pic, you should be able to change the fit so that the hoods position is higher and closer to you.
Then it's worth getting used to them some before making up your mind.

You should also adjust your saddle height correctly if you haven't done that.

Most people who dislike drop bars just dislike riding in an aggressive low/forward position and have never even tried drop bars that fit them.

>>2008924
>break

>>2008924
dialing in a good position on drops is hard and takes a lot of time.
I just did my first one and like anon said first get the saddle correct. then I had to figure out what bar width (approximately shoulder width) and shape. because of the brifters I had, it took a compact bend to make it where the hoods leveled out while still able to reach the brakes from the drops. then I had to figure out stack and reach (stem height and forward length). bought correct stem, then cut down excess cable and housing (left them long when I installed for this reason). then play around with small adjustments for like a month, clamping the brifters different places and rolling the bar back and forth and small stem height adjustments.

but yes, you can do a flat or swept back bar, I did it on my other bike. the stem reach may be affected thoughever.

>>2008924
It's not particularly hard, but only affordable if you buy used and have a Shimano equipped bike at 8 or 9 speed.

Basically you go to eBay, buy some flat bars with the right clamp diameter. Buy some shifters with the right speed (8 and 9 speed road is compatible with MTB, and MTB parts are always cheap and plentiful). Buy some grips, a small amount of shift and brake housing, 2x each shift and brake cable, and some inline barrel adjustors.

Probably cost you about $150 max

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Hello /n/iggers.

I have an Elops 500 single speed from Decathlon. I've got tired of single speed commuting, and I also want to do long distance rides in hilly regions, so I've thought about converting this single speed to a geared bike, since it probably would be cheaper to build up a frame rather than buying a new bike. Also the frame is steel, and it's hard to find geared steel bikes around me.

So, would it be possible to just slap a 1x groupset from Aliexpress on it, like a Sensah SRX Pro? Is a normal derailleur hanger going to work or am I going to have to buy one specifically for a fork end frame? Is this going to work well on a 120mm axle or am I going to have to bend the frame or some shit? Am I going to have to buy other parts (outside of changing the handlebars)? Should I even attempt doing it as an amateur?

I've added a pic rel of specs and the rear of the bike. I don't have that much experience with bikes outside of maintenance, but I've done a fair bit of car repairs and I have some tools for it. Thanks.

>>2008969
Besides the hanger, the other issue here is what's the derailleur going to do without a cassette to shift. Internal gear hubs could be a solution but generally speaking they're going to be too big. Some people have tried bending out the dropouts but it's going to be a lot of annoying hacking to get it to do what you want. You're better off doing what everyone else did when they realized single speed was a scam: selling their bike to the next sucker and buying a bike with gears.

>>2008971
Isn't it possible to just buy a new rear wheel along with a cassette or maybe there's some other way? Or is the rear axle too small? I still don't get exactly bicycle drivetrains work and fit together and how to check what is going to be compatible and what isn't since I can't find a good source to teach this and it seems pretty complicating for a noob.

>selling their bike to the next sucker and buying a bike with gears.
Yeah, I was thinking about that, probably the easiest and fastest way. I just like to DIY things.

>>2008977
see how it says 120mm rear axle? and it's one cog. now think about how much wider the axle and therefore the frame would have to be with a 7,8,9 gear cluster on there. steel can be bent to get a 5 or 6 cluster to fit 7,8,or 9 but afaik going from 1 to several isn't possible. maybe, but I doubt it.
also look at the picture. see the holes all the other dropouts have? that's where the derailleur bolts on. there are aftermarket hangars but don't know if they work with your track dropout but doesn't really matter since the axle space is no go

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>>2008984
pic

>>2008924
if you feel too hunched over just use a few spacer or a flipped up stem.
>>2008969
>cheaper to build up a frame rather than buying a new bike.
i doubt it, it's also literally impossible as your frame has no derailleur mounting option.
>Also the frame is steel, and it's hard to find geared steel bikes
a lighter aluminium bike would serve you much better when climbing hills
>Should I even attempt doing it as an amateur?
no. just get an entry level sub 1k bike.

>>2008985
Unrelated question: would it be ok to shorten slightly that bottom left hanger for easier wheel removal? Meaning hacksawing few mm towards right from the hanger. I have fenders and tight clearances so wheel removal is pain in the ass.

>>2009018

likely to end in tears when you fuck up.

>>2009018
you can stand on your head and whistle the star spangled banner for all I care

>>2009018
Just deflate the tire

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https://www.montaguebikes.com/product/allston/
https://www.gatescarbondrive.com/products/belts?product_line=CDX

How do I get the lowest and highest gear ratios on a carbon belt drive for a bicycle?

How do you determine what the gear ratios are once you have the belt drive?
I don't understand which size sprockets to pick or which size belt or gear hub.

What is the relationship of the belt length to the rest of the setup?

The belts are available in many sizes and so are the front and back sprockets.

I want to have some very low gear ratios (1:3) and some very high (5:1). I am looking at the Montague Allston because I want a full size foldable bike with a carbon belt drive. I have only ever used chains. I would actually like to buy a different frame from the Montague and put a belt drive on there and buy the rest of the other pieces directly from Gates but I don't know what I'm doing.
I also want to add a suspension fork and some different handlebars and some twist shifters. I don't know if I can do any of this.

hello bikefags. I'm considering getting into the hobby as a form of cardio. I haven't ridden a bike since I was in my teens. I live in the rocky mountains so there's some good mtb around. I'm a little hesitant to do road biking but the most reasonable foray into the hobby seems to be to buy a used road bike and if I like it, get a mountain bike as well and then upgrade one or the other as I see fit and/or as I enjoy them. Were you as timid as me when starting? Any other tips or general advice to give? I'd scanned through the resources in the op. I feel fine spending a few hundred on something entry level, is a budget of $500 reasonable? I'll need everything.

>>2008969
No

Is there a best place to buy new tires? I need 2 sets of news. But it seems like online and in person they can be pretty expensive. Not that I'm opposed to spending what I have to, but if I can get a 30% off deal or some shit why wouldn't I?

>>2009093
What kind of retarded question is this? You go about it the same as any other product you would buy. You decide which tires you want, look for the place with the best price and buy them. If you're absolutely clueless you go to a store and ask for recommendations.

>>2009093
USA or EU? Are you looking for fastest tires or just something that will do the job?

>>2009033
>I want to have some very low gear ratios (1:3) and some very high (5:1).
No commercially available drivetrain has such a gear range, and frankly such a ridiculously low gear ratio is completely useless, at 0.333 you'd spin the pedals like crazy to go half the speed of walking. The widest range groupsets on the market have a gear range between around 0.9 and around 4.4. Not sure whether internal gear hubs with a similar range exist, top end models maybe, all I know is my Alfine 8 has fuck all for gear range, it's like 1.15 to 3.5 which sucks for steep climbs. Check gear-calculator.com, you should be able to select different internal gear hubs to find out about their range and play with different belt ratios to figure out what you need for certain speeds. FYI for steep climbs it's recommended to have gear inches in the low to mid 20s in the lowest gear.

>>2009062

the plan is sound. a few hundred feet of climbing on a mtb in the rockies would be brutal if your cardio hasn't been maintained. $500 is a reasonable budget if you are comfortable buying used, which is a great option for road bikes. nobody who sticks with it for the long haul owns just one bike. you should look into whether your state/region has any kind of ebike rebate program.

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What's the point of a rocker dropout? It doesn't seem very sturdy

>>2009094
Do you know how many places there are to buy tires from online and otherwise? How many types of tire too, and prices, and sales events, and shit like that? I'm asking the knowledge /n/-gers of 4chan if they know any good scoops like X site having a big tire sale now or some shit. Wouldn't you want a good deal on something you buy too? If you could get the same exact 2 products but one is cheaper, why buy the more expensive one? You goofball

>>2009101
Last time I bought tires iirc I got marathon supremes from Merlin. Shipped from the uk for cheaper than they would have been stateside.

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Lads, for this season I did a full renovation of the drive - big cog up front, the cassette and chain; all brand new, top dolla, fancy stuff.
Already put in 2205 km into it. Dry conditions, but I got caught in rain once, shirt ride and avoided puddles to keep the wheel-spray to minimum. My question is about the chain. It's a sram chain. 2205 km, lads, I'm yet to lube it. Lads, 2205 km and it only started making noise at around 1500 km and your typical "lube me" squeaks on Monday, ca. 125 km ago. It's a sram chain.
My question is: WTF are sram using to lube their chains?
This is way better than anything I ever heard about. 1500 km of noise-less work? Can this shit be acquired, can it be used at home?

>>2009093
I go on ebay and buy tires cheap in my size I want. I like to try new things and see how it goes.
Otherwise if you know what you want try other websites. Sometimes the manufacturer sells tires cheap on their websites.

Last tires I bought were on ebay and 23 dollars for 4 700x23c serfas stagioni's.
>>2009062
It's fine. Just learn on what are nicer bikes, learn maintenance, and ride.

>>2009101
Nigga are you really to fucking retarded to find the cheapest price for a product online? Sounds like you want a tire recommendation, if so you initial question was wrong.

>>2009018
that's like cutting your toes off because your socks are too tight
>>2009033
it has a shimano alfine 11 speed hub which has a 409% gear range, and whether it's heavy or light depends on the ratio on the sprocket and chainring. if you want a huge range of gears get a derailleur driven full size bike with multiple front chainrings, a hub gear can never match that. a folding bike shouldn't be that performance oriented anyway, it being low maintenance with the belt drive is a good thing.
>>2009033
>buy a different frame from the Montague and put a belt drive on there
belt drives require a belt-specific frame, there needs to be a break in the seatstay as the belt is a single piece.

>>2009062
for mtb don't get a downhill bike (DH), those are meant for riding a ski lift up a mountain and coasting down. I believe the kind for riding all terrain is called enduro?
I think road is "better" for cardio because you can maintain the cadence more consistently but if I lived in the Rockies you couldn't keep me off the mountains so I think the important thing is getting what is going to make you stoked to ride. especially when new, every kind of riding is going to benefit cardio. then once you hit your stride you could branch out into other bikes/types of riding.
$500 is good for used. if there's a bike buy general, read the op and post there. or if not post here and we can find something on your CL that will fit you and your chosen discipline

>>2009123
Cum

>>2009093
I tend to buy cheaper tires myself but there's no denying that tires are the best bang-for-the-buck upgrade you can make. don't be afraid to spend more there, it will reward you exponentially more than anything else.
for diameter, that is proscribed by the rim, but the width is very important and you should usually try to get something near the limit that fits inside your frame and fork (rim brake calipers also limit this, but you can inflate them in place to get around that,) although rim width can also limit the tire width, but there's charts for that. wider lets you run lower pressures which smooths out the road buzz and actually makes you faster, but comfort (and therefore endurance) is the primary thing.

so decide that way, then look for deals on the specific sizes and models you know you want.

>>2009123
I don't know but on all chains, the "factory lube" is actually a thick coating that keeps the surfaces air-tight so they can be warehoused and sit on the shelf forever without rusting, and they dunk it in a hot bath so it will be sure to coat and therefore rustproof all the internal surfaces. therefore, it's extremely tenacious and any brand new chain will last much longer before it needs lube than normal. it protects and lasts forever, but it's not very slippery so chain lube and waxes lube better, give you better output, but don't last as long.
so that's my guess as to what's happening but it's just a guess

>>2009123
according to some internet guy who I forgot already but he seemed legit, factory chain lube is overrated and it only seems amazing because most people suck at lubing their chains

anyway since I went to wax it's been an irrelevant distinction because I no longer use chain lube per se

Hello, I am renting a touring bike in Japan for a week.
Which bike should I choose from the following list:
Bombtrack Arise 2,1x11 Speeds, with schwalbe marathon tires.
Fuji touring, 3x9 Speeds
Surly Disc Trucker, 3x9 Speeds

I know very little about bikes, I just ride my cheap hybrid every day.

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>>2009128
I am waiting to hear back from Montague about the ability to buy a standalone frame. The Montague Allston roadbike comes with the belt and a seat stay splitter to be able to attach that belt. The other frames don't have that option so that's the only frame I could get (I just recently confirmed this after posting my original question here.)

I'd also want a suspension fork that can handle 700c wheels, so I'd order from Rockshox, which is the brand on Montague mountain bikes. I would also want handlebars with drop bars but don't know what would be compatible yet.
I am insistent on a folding bike because I want to use it for packrafting where I take the bike with me on the raft. Montague specializes in folding bikes, so I expect to be able to get high performance out of this.

I see that the Gates carbon belt drive thar comes with the Allston has a front sprocket with 46T and a rear with 24T. That front sprocket comes in 46, 50, or 55T options. The rear comes in sizes ranging from 19T-39T. This is where some of my remaining confusion is.
46T front : 24T rear = about 2:1 gear ratio. The Alfine 11 internal hub has a lowest gear ratio of about 1:2, and a high of 2.15:1.

So I wonder, does an external sprocket 2:1 fixed ratio stack up (might not be right word) with the ratios of the internal hub?
Would first gear (1:2) feel more like 1:1 since the external sprockets begin with a 2:1 ratio? And would the top gear be more like 3.15:1 rather than 2.15:1?

Knowing this would be helpful in determining whether I should buy a 55T front sprocket crank set and possibly a smaller or larger rear sprocket.

It also says nothing on the Montague website about the length of the belt included with the Allston, but Gates belts come in sizes from 108-183T.

Is it worth to switch to clipless in a suburban areas? there's a lot of times when I gotta play with my foot a little to either slowdown, fast stop, etc and i don't feel like clipless is the best option

>>2009159
If you like 3x try the touring bikes.
If you like 1x, use the 1x bike.
>>2009164
No.
Clipless is great if you have the pedals, or want to focus on training to get faster and better.
I enjoy riding flats, especially the mtb flats with pins since they are really damn good and you can run almost any shoe.

>>2009167
damn im trying to get faster but i can't find roads that are perfectly solid (lots of bumps) or has traffic and stop lights everywhere. clipless is fine for the 20-30 seconds im riding than I have to unclip and it's not as responsive as just stopping with flats.... but i definitely feel much more power clipped in...

>>2009172
just use spd-sls or speedplays and the clipping in and out is a non-issue. the reason people bitch about clipless and traffic lights is that they're riding those big ass single sided road pedals that you have to manipulate with your toes for 30 seconds before clipping in. or they got suckered into buying those frankenpedals that are supposed to work with or without cleats.

with normal double sided you just push your foot on the pedal and you're good to go. no gimmicks, it just werx

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>>2009164
>damn im trying to get faster but i can't find roads that are perfectly solid (lots of bumps) or has traffic and stop lights everywhere. clipless is fine for the 20-30 seconds im riding than I have to unclip and it's not as responsive as just stopping with flats.... but i definitely feel much more power clipped in...

for these types of urban conditions my preference is for half-clips. you get a little bit of foot retention but you can also dab at any time without thinking.

>>2009174
ah that's what im using. it's loose but there's still a mental element. there's sometimes when im training and I undershoot a turn and understeer right to a curb but on flats i can take my legs out to balance, with clipless i'll just fucking run into that curb.
>>2009175
huh didn't know they had these lol i'll go check these out. kinda with the clips weren't metall though im just thinking an accidental WHOOPS and it'll break your fucking foot lmao

>>2009176

More commonly they are made of durable plastic which is a better choice because they won't break or scuff much when you bash them on things or scrape along the pavement

>>2009175
That's an interesting way of doing it. I might try it since I have pedals that are compatible with clips.

>>2009150
https://zerofrictioncycling.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Lubricant-detail-review-Factory-Grease-v1.1.pdf
Here's a pretty comprehensive writeup

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Thoughts on the All-City Super Pro?
Is pic related a hassle to deal with?

>>2009193
thru axle bros.....
we are still winning.... right?

>>2008924
Yes, but if your bike fits it won't work.

Your bike clearly doesn't fit. You figure out where the fuck your hands are supposed to be first. You may need different bars, stem, ect.

If you switch bars, you will need to maintain the same radius. EG, not mountain bike radius.

See Northroad bars for an example.

>>2008969
You don't have a bike. You have a BSO. Get a used shitheap hybrid or MTB.

If you WERE to try to multi speed that, you would replace your rear wheel with an IGH. This would be idiotic.

>>2009033
This seems impossible. Check the gear range of a Rolhoff for a folding bike.

>>2009062
I would start with an ENTRY LEVEL HARDTAIL mtb. Get good front suspension and everything else will work out well enough.

>>2009193
>Is pic related a hassle to deal with?
no those are very simple, just loosen it and adjust with that bolt on the back. nice to be able to dial it in, but if you're using the derailleur hanger you can just ignore it as the derailleur tensions the chain already.

>>2009200
Yeah, I didn't check to see what gear ratios were actually possible or available before posting. I just want to make sure the bike is going to have low enough and high enough to be effective for long road travel.

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>>2009167
>you can run almost any shoe.
you can ruin almost any shoe

Here is a question.

I have an touring bike. It's from a cheap brand called "Serious" (yeah yeah I know). I've made a few upgrades but I feel I want to overhaul it.

By overhaul I'm thinking, new drive train; 3x9 to 2x9/10, new handlebars/shifters/brakes, nice Honjo fenders, etc...
And the frame I want to sandblast to a raw steel look.

Waste of time/money, or should I just sell and buy brand new?

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Recently started cycling and would be really cool to not get dirt and bugs in my eyes
Any glasses recommendations that doesn’t make me look like an aero carbon terminator?
Just want something lightweight that gives good protection.

Also
>lens colour

Is it a big deal or just go with what looks good?

>>2009231
The clear decathlon ones are like 4€
I think they are rock riders or some other brand

>>2009219
It looks fine to me. I tend to wear out the heel on most shoes normally walking, yes eventually the pins can wear your shoe out but your shoe looks more worn at the heel and toe then whee the pins are.
>>2009223
>y so serious?
waste of time/money but if you really want to do it just do it.
>>2009231
yellow lenses help with acuity. Can't remember what the blue/green ones do but they help too.
Wear whatever you want. I can't see well so I just wear my normal glasses.

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>>2009231
You're like 5 years late to the party, laggard

>>2009219
What kind of pedal would create that wear pattern, I wonder? Also I'd say there's quite a bit of life left in that sole. But yeah, if you ride pinned plats you need to accept that your soles will get scuffed, and pick shoes accordingly.

>>2009231
>Any glasses recommendations that doesn’t make me look like an aero carbon terminator?

no. get the ridiculous oaklies. we use them for a fucking reason; they work.

>>2009231
>>lens colour

matters if you go fast, ride in the morning/evening with imperfect sunlight, or ride bad pavement. picking the right lens becomes important when you need to spot potholes in twilight while descending on 25c tires at 30mph.

>>2009223
eh, you'll spend several hundred dollars and it'll be a long project since you're stripping and rebuilding the entire frame for the sandblast. if it's aluminum you don't *need* to finish it but it'll dull unless you polish it periodically. if steel, clear coat is porous compared to paint and rust eventually gets through. some people coat with boiled linseed oil but it wears off over the years and needs to be reapplied. anyway, if you keep your bike, you will necessarily learn everything about bikes doing it (except for whatever standards it doesn't use i.e. rim brakes if you have disc.)
buying a new bike will cost way more but you'll have it instantly. buying a used bike with most of the stuff you want could easily be priced in-between, but it could also be the same as the parts for the bike you have , or even less if the seller is pricing it to get rid of it, which happens a lot.

your call

>>2009223
>nice Honjo fenders
the Velo Orange fenders are honjo clones and may be cheaper . can vouch for quality

>>2009231
power tool eye protection from the hardware store?
but the colored lenses on real glasses do help

>>2009185
what a slog. this guy is under the mistaken impression that people are interested in reading his epic-length, snarky commentary . and he keeps repeating himself.
for me, the relevant data, about wear rate rather than the marginal friction % and watts, is at the very end.

tl;dr factory grease sucks by all metrics, but its wear rate (how readily it absorbs dust/dirt and turns it into grinding paste) is particularly horrible, which affects the gear teeth, which are more costly to replace than just a chain

>>2009223
Seems like an absolute waste of time unless the frame is a perfect fit for you
It will probably look like ass too unpainted only really works with stainless or alloy/titanium

>>2009223
>raw steel
Looking forward to seeing your bright orange bike but even without a sandblast is a waste of money compared to parting it out and buying something used and decent with the money from selling it. It's bad value to buy new most of the time, because a bicycle is a depreciating asset just like a car is.

Would it be foolish to buy a vintage bike as my first bike?

>>2009266
No, but buy it from a local used bike shop that will help you find one that fits and will accept returns if something is fucked

>>2009266
no but ask us before you buy, you don't know what to choose as a noob

>>2009266
how vintage?
80's or 90's is probably fine

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>>2009231

Hardware store safety glasses are good and cheap for starters. Get one pair that's clear and another one that's dark. Also make sure they have proper nose pads and rubber in the temples for good grip.

Also some mid-priced sunglasses are good that are plastic and not metal and glass. Avoid the dirt cheap gas station sunglasses because they will usually crack in half when you bend them.

If you can afford it, cycling specific sunglasses are great because they are usually made to be more comfortable for long rides. They usually also have lenses with a slight pink or amber tint from the inside to boost contrast.

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>>2009264
>>2009261
>>2009245
>>2009244
>>2009234

Thanks for the advice.

The main reason for this is that I bought the bike (pic related), during the pandemic to try out touring, seeing as it was pointless shelling out a fortune if I hated it. I found this odd brand that literally copied a Kona Sutra at half the price. Over the years I've upgraded some parts, namely the wheels which were hand built by a competent friend (Ryde Sputnik rims, w/ shimano dynamo and XT hubs, double butted spokes). The drive train, mainly Alivio cranks, Deore 3x9 groupset, hollowtech bottom bracket, have served me well but are showing their age and getting "tired".

The bike overall is GOOD, it's carried my ass over 12k+ kms, I've done a massive tour last year, and several shorter (<1k) ones. The frame size is good too, but the main reason for an overhaul is that I absolutely hate the stupid name (trust Germans to do branding right?), and the gross colour. The frame could also use a seat tube bottle holder mount and some other touch ups. The mudguards are revolting to look at as well.

So according to you guys, stripping the paint, total waste of time/money?

What other options are there? Sell as is? Leave it be?

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How hard would it be to just slap a Shimano Alfine 8 on this?

Its a 1940s columbia torpedo.

>>2009284
It would ofc take a rear wheel rebuild to begin with, which takes some effort but isn't too difficult even for a novice.
What really matters is the distance between dropouts. Alfine is 135mm. Look up techniques for cold setting if needed.
And at last, there's the chainline. Can't say anything about that without knowing the measurements of your bike and crankset/bb.

It's doable for sure, but gonna need a lot more info to know how extensive (worthwhile) the project will be.

>>2009287
Eh, to be honest its just something to do, and eventually ride ofc

>>2009193
Fucking why???

>>2009193
hack of all trades

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So I cleaned and lubed my 2007 bike. I rode it like 3 times in the last 10 years. I went on a ride today and it was very hard to keep a "elbows bent" position. Is my core too weak? When I use the drop bars it's comfortable. When I use the hoods I feel like I need to straighten my arms and brace myself against the handlebar or else my body will just drop down. I played around a little with the saddle height and forward/back position, but it didn't help too much with the pressure on my arms.

>>2009295
It's probably kind of awkward to sustain a decent position because you're on flat pedals in the granny gear. Active posterior chain engagement comes more naturally when you're riding with intent. Otherwise you're just holding a hunched over position for no reason, there's no power being delivered through your glutes and thighs, and of course it's going to be uncomfortable.

>>2009303
Ok that's right. When I was trying to go as fast as possible for a while I felt much more comfortable. What's wrong with flat pedals though. I really would prefer to avoid looking like a douche walking around the corner shop in cleats or whatever they're called.

>>2009295

saddle is slammed pretty far forward. that's almost a triathlon bike aerobar stance. I'd move it back ~10mm and see how that feels. stem also looks quite long and the bars are a bit unusual, being rather long ergobends.

>>2009310
Thanks a lot. I took the photo before the ride. Almost immediately I stopped to bring the saddle back and I kind of put it in what looked like default position. The bike is from 2007. Maybe that's why the bars are like that. Should I maybe rotate the bar up? It looks like it's rotated down too much.

>>2009309
Nothing wrong with them, it's just not the ideal pedal if you want to be going sanic. If you have god tier form of course none of this shit matters but in real life, good foot retention gives your brain one less thing to be stressing about when you're pedaling hard and watching for road debris and cars and stuff. And if your form is less than perfect, reducing cognitive overload can be good for reminding yourself to avoid whatever it was cycling coach said you need to stop doing (for me it was toe dipping)

>>2009284
wow, cool!

>>2009295
In my opinion you need some saddle elevation (like +10cm) to have an comfortable riding position on the hoods on bikes with long reach. You could try reducing the reach or the stack or just ride in the drops and hooks like everyone did before aero hoods become the meta.

>>2009314
>Should I maybe rotate the bar up?

worth a try, I agree that they look a little bit out of position. Saddle position needs to be dialed in before bar position but once you've got saddle dialed you want to be able to comfortable move between riding with elbows open or closed with hands on the hoods and hopefully still have a comfortable position on the drops but most people never get that far.

>>2009314
ya, try that. if you like it, you'll probably have to reclamp the brifters, unfortunately.
the old-school fit advice is to point the drops so they make a line pointing at the rear derailleur. so rolling them up would do that. of course, this was from the days of merckx bends, nothing like your ergo bar but still I think it could help.

>>2009325
to add you probably want a stem with less reach more than anything else. there are cheap adjustable ones you can play with to try out different stuff , but don't keep them permanently, they suck as a permanent stem

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Just picked up this to replace my old road bike that got stolen. It was $400. Am I retarded?

>>2009328
>cons
you overpaid unless you really like the bike
>pros
CLEAN+3x crankset+ it's cool.

My take on it is this, if you like the bike and spend lots of time on it the 400usd will be worthwhile. I have some of the best times on my road bike and whatever I paid was worth it.

>>2009330
Looks look a 2001 Fuji Newest. Love the colors and it was a good fit, and I have limited patience for bike shopping. It has 23c tires rn, mostly I'm curious how much larger I can fit. 25c look like they would, not sure about 28c.

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I know fuck all about bikes and want to get into it. I found a Giant Cypress DX for $225. Is that good? Only going to ride it casually.

What are the things I need to carry on a 50-100km road bike ride? Do I really need a bag attached to the bike? Do I need to carry a spare tube, pump, and these plastic tools everywhere I go?
I've only ever been on sub 30km rides, and had a puncture only once. But I want to get into longer trips.

>>2009333
>spare tube, pump, and these plastic tools

I carry these even for short trips. Unless you're super anal about weight I don't think there's much reason not to. I use a small saddle bag with a tube, small patch kit, and tire lever. My portable pump attaches directly to the seat tube.

>>2009328
you better be a manlet

>>2009334
Where do you keep your phone? Do you bring food? Where do you keep it?

>>2009328
That looks pretty much unused so I think you did fine. Replace the brake pads and possibly the tires if they're dry rotted before you ride it.

>>2009332
Generic 'comfort' bike. Good for cruising around a neighborhood or beach in a comfy upright posture. Looks unused, even has the initial setup sticker on the front derailer. Saddle is ridiculous unless you have haemorrhoids. As long as the fork doesn't collapse immediately under your weight it's a fine bike to buy.

>>2009333
You should always have kit for dealing with punctures. Pump, patch kit, and spare tube if you're running tubes is a solid setup. A tire lever if you can't get your tires off bare handed and a basic multitool are good too.

>>2009336
Personally I like to carry my phone and food in my jersey pockets so they're accessible while riding, and I keep my mechanical spares in a saddle bag. I carry tubeless plugs, CO2 head and 2 cartridges, TPU tube, tire levers with a tiny valve core tool and multitool that I never use because I keep my bikes maintained but carry in case I need to help someone else. If I was going far from civilization I'd bring a pump and tiny bottle of sealant too.

can you do 11 of 12?
Like sheldon's 8 of 9 etc where you leave off 1 cog and can fit cassettes on 7 speed hubs.

wondering cos there are cheap 12spd DA shifters going.
And is it the same pull ratio?

>>2009099
Chainstay length adjustment while being much sturdier than alternatives

>>2009335
56cm is manlet tier? Damn.

>>2009337
Rear tire definitely no good, it was bulging out when filled with air. Not unseated, like the tire itself was stretching. Gonna take it back in to the shop tomorrow and see if I can get replacements or some $ back for new tires.

>>2009341
unless your frame starts with a 6 it's manlet tier
ya know
60+cm frame
6+speeds
120+cm stem

Beyond that the current setup is very much a french fit, looks pretty comfy.

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Is it ogre? It's a vintage Ritchey fork.

>>2009363
Most likely fine once you clean the rust off

>>2009363
Just spray some penetrating fluid on it and screw the nut all the way down to clean the threads

Are wheels the snake oilest part of road cycling?

>read "tests"
> immense majority of Saud test consists in a guy riding 500-4000km with a given set
> proceed to written about how they feel great, or feel fast
> 0 standardization
> 0 reproducibility
> 0 comparable metrics

They never find bad products or major flaws btw.

>>2009387
that's like saying pharmaceuticals are a scam because shady marketing happens

but to your point, I got clickbaited into watching a GCN video where they were like "whoa these two canyons are totally different bikes even though it's the CF SL vs the CF SLX" and proceeds to do a whole series of vs test rides on the two different frames that also happen to be on totally different wheelsets, tires, and drivetrain

>>2009387
nah dude wheels make a huge difference to the performance of a bike

a bike is a set of wheels, plus the rest

>>2009175
I'm a big fan of half clips, these are what I've been using for a few years now. I should probably replace the clips soon though since they're got some rough patches.

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>>2009394
oops

>>2009390
They have a valid point though which is that cycling journalism is basically the same thing as audiophile journalism. And consequently poors have the same complaints about audio gear which is that it's all the same shit and nice things are a scam

Probably a dumb ass question but Ive come to realize Im not sure I know which gear is correct to ride in. There are times I am in max gear just cruising along like its nothing, other times being in max gear feels like Im usinh 200% energy for only 50% movement. Times I think being in the low gear would be best, I switch gears and it becomes easier.

sorry Idk if Im explaining myself right, but is there a comprehensive guide for gearing, grades, etc? That I could learn from?

>>2009406
low perceived effort: whatever gear you want, it doesn't make a difference
high perceived effort, such as climbing, headwinds, or just going sanic: go for 60-100 RPM, you'll find a cadence that works for you

>>2009363
Looks fine, is there rust on the inside?

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>>2009345

>>2009341
usually when the top tube and down tube touch like that it's a manlet frame, but I see now the head tube is longer than how they usually are in that configuration, and the thicker down tube stretches it out even more.
that paint job is awesome. the word "newest" on there looks like something on a BSO, unfortunately, but otherwise it's really neat.
the handlebar looks clunky and gigantic to me. as long as it's not wider than your shoulders it's maybe ok, but I was never able to reach my brakes from the drops on a big bar like that. I'd personally like to see them wrapped in one of the frame colors, the black looks off to me.

>>2009363
grill brush or some other wire brush

>>2009406
Start noticing the inclination of the road and your wind resistance.
Lower gears+higher cadence trains skill and loads your heart up more which is more sustainable long term. Harder gears+lower cadence uses your muscles more.


https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears.html

>>2009363
Clean it up with a wire wheel, and there is a very good chance it's fine.

>>2009406
keep your cadence steady and spinny and switch gears to maintain it. anticipate shifts when gradient changes to stay on top of it. you can opt to power through sections in a higher gear if you want but over the long term you'll wear yourself out if you always do it . disco and house music is about 120 beats per minute, you can mentally sing "Stayin' Alive" and gauge your cadence , then see if that feels too spinny or not

>>2009274
If the bike still rides and nothing is broken, I wouldn't fuck with the components. There are bottle cages that clamp to a tube instead of screwing into bosses, though you might as well just get a bigger frame bag and keep a spare bidon in it. You could get it repainted in a color you actually like, or get one of those vinyl wraps to save some effort and expense. I'm not sure why you hate the fenders, but it's possible to get nicer ones or just take them off to save some weight. If it was my bike I'd get a frame bag, wrap the bars with the Fizik 3mm tape and some gel, swap the tires for Marathon Almotions (I actually just did this exact tire change from Marathon Plus on my own touring bike and the difference in ride is night and day), and if I hated the color maybe get some colored retroreflective tape and put stripes of it on the frame for better visibility.

>>2009429
>tire change from Marathon Plus on my own touring bike and the difference in ride is night and day
the Pluses and Supremes are notoriously sluggish.
I "upgraded" from basic Marathons ("Greengaurd") to Panaracer Pasela PTs and didn't really notice a difference. although I replaced them one at a time as they wore out.
what's the deal with Allmotions?

>>2009274
I agree with above poster. the bike seems cool as is, particularly with your upgrades. if you don't want to wrap or repaint, maybe there's some vinyl graphics you could cover the SERIOUS, or like a bumper sticker.

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>>2009429
>I'm not sure why you hate the fenders

The look tacky and inelegant. The other reason is that they don't even perform well and spray water directly into my shoes, yes, like directly between my ankle and shoe. In dirty conditions they tend to spray mud all over my panniers and stuff. Irritating to say the least. I don't know about the HONJO, they look superb but I've heard that the tight tolerances cause mud to gunk up very quickly.

>Framebag
I've got enough bags, and I've heard those interfere with cycling. I have a massive bottle cage for 1.5 L bottles.

>Marathon Almotions
My Pluses are nearing the end of their life. They are OK, they do ride like shit I will agree, but not a single puncture. I was thinking some tan-walled Panaracers.


>>2009434
Thanks. Perhaps that is the solution. My original idea was to cover it in stickers, but at shit starts to peel off an look even worse. I felt that a clean look would look best, but I think the costs add up very fast.

The other question is, maybe a new frame entirely? Or I'm being retarded. I just hate the overall colour and logo (which is under a thick later of clearcoat, the cunts really didnt want you to remove i!!).

See pic related, doesn't that look fucking amazing? Just a simple steel look. I've got a bike guy who can do the seat tub bosses.

It's all down to a question of time and money, and so far everyone says don't do it... ;_;

>>2009443
>they don't even perform well and spray water directly into my shoes
yeah, looking at your bike, that front fender doesn't go down far enough, and the way it mounts to the fork blade doesn't allow you to pivot it backwards to make it work. whoever designed them needs to be rounded up and shot.

>>2009445
>>2009445
to add: putting some mud flaps on them like the ones on the second bike you posted would help both front and rear but not a perfect solution.
I made one out of an old mtb tube with some plastic stapled to the bottom for stiffness

>>2009445
>whoever designed them needs to be rounded up and shot.

I wholeheartedly concur, again, a "one size fits all" German brand. Very little thought into practical usage.

With fenders there is definitely a strong following for steel wrap-arounds where they function well and look good.


Another question:

Changing from Hollowtech 2 to square-taper, retarded, or doable?

>>2009235
haha guy on the right is the one who's girlfriend murdered that gravel racer in texas

>>2009434
>what's the deal with Allmotions?
https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/tour-reviews/schwalbe-marathon-almotion-2016
They're just damn good tires. Way less squirrelly in the corners by comparison, and changing nothing but the tires increased my average speed by like one and a half miles an hour.

>>2009387
Wait until you hear that this black magic of nonstandard material properties has literally been driving frame development since the 1940’s

>>2009458
The current non-tubeless v-guard ones aren't discontinued like that article says

>>2009453
Women shouldn’t be allowed in competition

>>2009458
Kinda crazy to me seeing there are 5 variations of schwalbe marathons. My dad was using an e-bike rated one as a training tire for a while, crazy after we took them off seeing how thick and durable they were.
>>2009461
They can be in competition, just make it skimpy.
>>2009387
This is because no one has done a BRR tier list for wheels, and before the 90's most wheels were handbuilt with a wide assortment of parts.
I am okay with it since freds+mamil's buy nice wheels and I buy them cheap used(inb4 25+wheelset poster autism post).
This is why I just go off my gut/forums/experience instead of ""reviews"".

Wheels are an easy play for the market to make money constantly, where as whatever is being shilled in that year has to change over time, wheels just get fancier and more expensive like the crazy carbon ones today.

>>2009235
I thought you were full of shit so reverse searched that image and wow, you're right.

>>2009464
yeah I'm from the area and know/knew Colin, he's skipped town since his live-in girlfriend killed the up and coming darling of the gravel scene and I haven't really seen him around since. Don't play games with the wrong women folks, they might just kill your side piece and make you persona non-grata in the cycling community. Being a fuck boy into your late 30s is just embarrassing anyway.

/bgc/ related because one time I was riding with him and some other central texas guys and someone snapped their chain and he threw a fit instead of just letting me and another dude fix it and we had to turn around to pick up a car to pick him up for some stupid reason.

>>2009466
Sounds like a certified fag. Don't associate with these doofuses anon.

>>2009466
kek.
Maybe it's a blessing I hang out with old folks, no fucking around like this.

>>2009450
>Changing from Hollowtech 2 to square-taper, retarded, or doable?

it's certainly doable, but it's not an upgrade or anything. I rode square taper my whole life but my current bike had a 144 bolt circle diameter, which won't accept lower than a 42t ring. I wanted lower and the best price I found was a used hollowtec on eBay so I switched to it, but I would've kept ST otherwise. so I had a reason, but going from one to the other just because doesn't make sense. I didn't notice any difference between them as a rider.
you can probably get less Q factor (width) out of square taper but I personally didn't notice the hollowtec being wider, although it probably is

>>2009453
>Texas
>Colin Strickland
does his dad sell propane and propane products?

>>2009471
The reason to change is that there are a hell of a lot of nicer ST cranks than hollowtech which look kind of crap in my opinion.

Are there brands besides Shimano that make hollowtech cranks?

>>2009475
IMO every crank that has a hollow spindle over 24mm's is "hollowtech". Yes, some of them are larger sized but they all have hollow spindles that are not ISIS drive or square taper.

Technically 24mm is hollowtech which is why I think shimano still runs that size, while sram likes to fuck around with 29mm or 30mm or 31mm or whatever the fuck they are doing.

I run square taper since that's what my hoard consists of that my parents had, and I find square taper spindles tend to wear slower then hollowtech. I have run through 2 or 3 hollowtech bb's(shimano or campy) and each time my square taper feels bad I just pull it out and regrease the balls.

Biggest key to converting is getting the right spindle and bb type for your frame. If you are the serious bike owner it should be BSA(english threaded) 68mm, maybe 73mm. Then choose JIS(jap) spindles for JIS cranks. If you want to run Campy you need ISO tapered spindle.

Oh, and make sure you get the BCD you want or chainrings you want. One advantage to hollowtech cranks is they started using smaller BCD's, most are kinda ugly but that allows sub 39tooth chainrings. Where as older 130BCD chainrings 39tooth is the smallest. Campy's old standard was 135 or 136 and those required 43/42tooth smallest chainring unless you drilled the crank for a triple.
My favorite looking square taper cranks are either the mavic starfish, campy cranks, or shimano cranks. The french make nice ones too, and the japanese have modern nice silver cranks too.

>>2009475
Not by that name, because it technically refers to the crank being hollow not the spindle, but the type of bottom bracket changing to just holding outboard bearings with a chunky hollow spindle on the cranks means spindles are a little stiffer and bottom brackets wear a little faster on anything new and Sora-tier or better in the last ten years. Compatible cranks are made by FSA and Microshift at the very least.

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fuck this goddamn fucking shitty fucking shit
what the fuck was wrong with cables on the outside of the frame

>>2009453
With a SIG P365, I love the internet. Is she related to Lance?

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>>2009363
usually i'd say that's superficial rust and don't even worry, but the problem you have is the threads are quite long, going off the minimium insertion mark of a quill stem you probably have your expander wedge sitting on those threads, and, on a ritchey i bet the tubing is pretty thin too.


The best way to remove the rust would be to place the steerer in a jar of evaporust. And then run a die over it. You can make a die by cutting slots in the thread of a decent sharp headset lockring. The holes in a tape/die are where waste material and gunky crap can escape.

On install just liberally grease the inside and out of the steerer tube and it should be fine.
And you will want to get a technomic or something which can place the wedge on the non-threaded part of your steerer.

>>2009497
>he can't handle PROGRESS
heh

>>2009379
>Just spray some penetrating fluid on it and screw the nut all the way down to clean the threads
this works too but just go slowly, and when you get increased resistance, back off, spray, run it over a few times until you clean it up.

can someone prove with math or something if its better to rotate between three chains every 1000km or to wear each chain to .5% before switching? to minimize drivetrain wear

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upgradecelerate,,,aboutimethinks.

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>>2009475
>The reason to change is that there are a hell of a lot of nicer ST cranks than hollowtech which look kind of crap in my opinion.

It's usually about ~500 grams weight difference, which is huge.
But the real reason to pick a crank is which one has available bottom brackets. Square taper off the shelf now is tourney level or chinkshit which is awful, and you pay $$ for an exotic bottom bracket. I have hoaded a bunch of UN55 but i still don't have every spindle length.

GPX bottom brackets are also expensive, which is why to avoid a lot of aftermarket external bearing cranks. Shimano has the best system and ultegra level bbs are like $20 from any lbs.
FSA shit is just cost cutting on stock builds and buying anything like that deliberately is insane.
7800 Dura Ace was in 2003 and there was like 10 years + when ultegra, 105 and the rest were all shiny silver or that cool metallic smoke polished finish, and didn't have the delaminating issues.

The other real reason is which crank has chainrings available in the ratios you want, and going for a modern 110 bcd 50/34 compact crank gives the most sensible wide range.

>>2009508
>brake pads ground into the metal bracket
absolute madman

>>2009482
hollowtech and hollowtech 2 are different things anon
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/technologies/component/details/hollowtech.html
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/technologies/component/details/hollowtech-2.html

>>2009419
Measured, the handles are 42cm which is maybe just wider than my shoulders. I don't love the drops either, it is a bit of a stretch to the brakes. I want to replace the tape with a matching color, but its in pretty good condition. I do appreciate whoever last had it used alternating blue and yellow water bottle cages.

Question on shifter hoods. I notice newer bikes have their hoods at a more horizontal and less vertical angle. There's nothing distinct about older shifters that will prevent me from doing that right? I get the bar geometry will have an effect.

>>2009554
Hoods tilted up reduces the effective reach to the hoods on those bars.

>>2009558
Yeah the reach on these bars is like 12~13cm, I think they're too long for me to move the hoods down comfortably. Haven't done a lot of bike tinkering before, so I think I'll give it a little riding time before I go out buying new bars n such.

>>2009511
500 grams is nonsense. Quality BB's are maybe 150g lighter and the HT2 cranks are slightly heavier. You can still buy a decent Tange/vo/TA BB or an expensive SKF that is guaranteed for 65000 miles. My HTII bearings have never lasted 5000 miles of commuting, so the SKF is not even expensive in that regard, though you are married to that BB then.

>>2009560
Yeah ride it for 100-200 miles to see if you adapt.
For me the bars look a little tall compared how I like to ride while the drops are pretty far down. If It was me I would mess with the bar height to see if any positions fit you well, and if so then get a shallower drop bar, or at least a non-aero one.

But who knows, you might find you like the fit after a couple rides.

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>>2009554
one thing I did that I think helped was, after the saddle position is dialed in on all 3 axes, and after a reasonably long ride where you're warmed up and muscles are loose, I activated my core really strongly and took my hands off the bar and moved them around to where it felt like they ought to go. that was my first indication that my stem and bar were completely retarded. just to get an eyeball on what feels right eventually got me towards a reasonable fit.
it's somewhat hard to ride hands free while leaned over like that, though. your balance is more natural sitting upright. but it can be done a few seconds at a time, at least .

>>2009598
*hands, elbows, arms, shoulders: everything

>>2009472
who knows, he was very evasive about his background, gave off the vibe of someone who grew up rich but was ashamed and tried to rough up their image a bit..

>>2009498
nah not at all, she was a weird one tho.

Have a Canyon Endurace road bike, love the bike but the 105 7000drivetrain is kinda noisy. I replaced the pulleys with 6800 and it improved somewhat, but bow I need a new chain and was thinking if getting the 12 speed shimano xtr chain, will it work? People report having great success with silencing their drivetrains using this chain. Alternatively, what's the most silent chain you ever used for 11s drivetrain. Also, no, I don't want to wax.

>>2009621
you sure you're not just crosschaining or something? also the 34 cog is always noisy as fuck, and the 32 is not great, the solution is to pedal harder

I bought a derailleur that said 6/7 speed for my 7 gear bike. I'm not certain how the adjustment screws work because the manual was badly translated, but I can't get it to stay on the 7th gear. Am I just fucking up or should I conclude that 6/7 speed actually means 6 speed?

>>2009654
>should I conclude that 6/7 speed actually means 6 speed?
No, it should work with 7. I'd try to explain, but Calvin will put it better than I can.
https://youtu.be/UkZxPIZ1ngY?si=qtxlpPEWsrDJp8MS

>>2009654
Nah that aint it, it should work.

Derailleurs are not that complicated and you're going to have to get your head around how exactly they work to adjust one.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html

RJ the bike guy on youtube has good videos too.

>>2009654
>but I can't get it to stay on the 7th gear.

immediately suspect bent derailleur hanger.

>>2009621
I have to ask the obvious did you lube it well? and is the chain rubbing the FD?
I ride ancient friction and it's never loud since I trim properly and don't cross chain too hard.
>>2009654
It should be fine. I "sight"(looking from cassette/cage area to the front chainrings from the back) what the derailleur cage and chain is doing and that is easy to tell at the smol and big cogs out the back.

>>2008918
can I get some recommendations for a XC/gravel wheelset around $500, where I plan to use 38 width tubeless tires?
I don't even know where to start looking

>>2009623
Nah, not crosschaining, there is a constant "FRRRRR" sound from the back in any gear combo. You might consider it a normal mechanical transmission sound, but it is louder when compared to other bikes.

>>2009661
Yes, I used Silca Synergetic, very thick wet lube. No rub at the FD, it definitely comes from the back. Shifts fine, I only want it to be more silent, hence the 12 speed chain idea which is praised a lot on forums.

>>2009665

shopping around a bit, the DT swiss G series is probably your best bet. lower budget than that you would be looking at sun ringle but it's not obvious that would be an upgrade for you or anyone - more just training wheels that you don't need to worry about tacoing. meme crabon and other fancy wheelsets are going to run you at least $800++ unless you go with aliexpress carbon or whatever people do nowadays. DT swiss will be a bombproof wheelset with excellent hubs imo, that's my rec.

I'm a eurofag moving to the Netherlands looking to get a second hand off marktplaats for a 6km commute.
Somewhat bike clueless but I do ride a motorcycle and I'm also in good cardio shape.
Any suggestions on bike brand/features/type?
I already know expensive ones are bound to be stolen so I'm aiming low.

>>2009443
>They don't even perform well
Shit man go for a ride without your fenders and tell me how much more wet you get

>>2009674
Is your cable tension off, causing you to slightly over/undershift and rub on the chain? Is your derailleur or hanger bent out of alignment enough to make noise but not so much that it throws you into the wrong sprocket?

>>2009701
thanks, I was definitely leaning away from carbon just from a longevity standpoint

When I shift from big ring to small ring, the chain sometimes gets too much momentum and goes flying off to the left.
This happened 3x today and it's starting to get annoying.
The shifting is working perfectly fine tho, no rattling or clicking in any gear. Shimano 105 R7000

Any tips on how to improve this?

>>2009743
If your pedal stroke is slowing or stopping while you shift (like if you delayed your shift until it's too late) then that can do it. Backlash on the chain at the same time that the chain is jumping gears. Slow your spin, shift, then pedal while maintaining or increasing your spin to take up any slack.

>>2009701
didn't someone say that DT Swiss sold to a new owner and is now a zombie company? not sure that matters but I thought someone said their quality was lower now

>>2009744
will try

>>2009743
Check your low limit screw but more likely the issue is that you need to shift deliberately

>>2009702
Look for an ugly decent bike. You can always ghettofy the bike via tape, inner tubes, spray paint, etc.
I would look for something that fits somewhat and is made of okay parts. Too cheap and it will break down quick.
>>2009744
hmm, I probably did this recently when I was coming to a stop recently.

>>2009702
my understanding is that the entire Nederlander bike market is the dutch mamachari city bikes. they're very inefficient but it's completely flat there and they're just a cultural institution, so nobody cares about the bikes the rest of the world rides there. one's as good as another when it comes to that design. they consider anything with a derailleur a racing bike even if it's a department store hybrid.
for something we consider good, you're going to have to post the Craigslist or whatever they have in the region you're moving to and we can make recommendations but I wouldn't get your hopes up

>>2009743
Inner limit stop may need adjustment, b-tension maybe, chain maybe a little bit too long

>>2009747

Not sure. I vaguely recall some QC issues a number of years ago but there isn't a hub in the world that people haven't found reasons to bitch about. Anyway what are the alternatives? Shimano is adequate but usually stock, Chris King is way more expensive, and everything else is a meme?

>>2009714
Cable tension is fine, hanger seems ok when looked at, but didnt really measure. A mech looked at it and didn't find anything wrong.

>>2009757
>A mech looked at it and didn't find anything wrong.

Shop mechanics are notoriously bad at troubleshooting bikes. That's not what they're paid for really.

>>2009760
Really depends on the shop, before I moved my last place I could run circles around those mechanics and I'm terrible at this stuff. My new place the guy is amazing, and charges accordingly

>>2009497
dude, the 0.0025 watts saved in aerodynamics from having them go through the headset instead of just the frame is totally worth disconnecting and re-bleeding your brakes every time you need to replace a bearing
>>2009702
99% of bikes on marktplaats are shit tier, instead look at second hand offerings at bike stores. stuff like old koga-miyata trekking/tour bikes holds up pretty well. if you're in good shape and like going fast a road bike will be more satisfying, but like the other anon says they're pretty rare second hand and overpriced.

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I'm trying to clean and grease the bearings on this old pedal, the outer nut came off fine, but the lock washer is twisted/stuck in place, any suggestions for getting it off?

>>2009779
dynamite

Is it worth buying a dedicated gravel bike or should I dump that money into new parts to morph my rigid mtb. I am looking for something that is
>comfy
>can go farther with less effort but still be able to get some exercise in
>can do road and packed gravel
I don't know enough about the geometry, gearing, and wheel size of a gravel bike to know if it's worth the increased cost
Maybe I should just make the rigid a single speed crooser and get a gravel

>>2009779
needlenose pliers and penetrating spray

>>2009791
post mtb

>>2009791
at least provide some more info. what do you have now (be specific, sizing etc), what do you like or dislike about it? what makes you think you should buy a dedicated gravel bike?

>>2009791
I would ride the rigid mtb on gravel roads, then decide from there.
I have an old single speed rigid mtb, and if I was just cruising it would be fine, if I wanted speed then a gravel bike would be better.

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>>2009791
Without a doubt it'll be more worth your money to buy a new bike. You'll get new parts with modern standards & superior functionality. On top of that, your rigid MTB will never be very fast and was never designed to have drop bars so it'll always be a compromise. Plus if the only biking you know is rigid MTB, you're gonna get your mind blown hopping on a modern 700c drop bar bike.

That being said, if you have a substantial parts bin or access to cheap parts, it could be worth it to fuck around with a conversion. It's one of the best things in the world to customize a bicycle even if it isn't always the moat cost effective. But seriously beyond $200 and you're pretty much wasting your time unless you already know what you're doing.

Here's what I would do. Take your rigid MTB and put on some nice tires, slicks or semi slicks. Experience how your ride changes and enjoy the speed. Then go to a bike shop and test ride some gravel bikes or road bikes. Decide if you like the drop bar position. Try different sizes. Compare your ride to the MTB and make a decision

>>2009791
gravel bikes are retarded unless you want to tour on it, or, specifically ride hard gravel routes.

A disc road bike is the best thing for comfy/ efficient/ packed gravel.

You just need to get one that can be fitted to you with reasonably high bars.

>>2009791
a bike is just a set of wheels, so if you want to work out if your old bike is worth upgrading, the first thing to do is to service the hubs and gauge their condition
If they have pitted bearing surfaces, worn out rims, or badly uneven spoke tension, you try to repair with new cups/cones/balls etc. If you can't you try to find a nice set of wheels.

That's step 1.

Bikes aren't magic and if you have wheel bearings in good condition and nice tires then your bike will roll fast. 90% of 90s bikes have shit wheels. Finding a nice set is difficult.

That's the significant way that a bike actually wears out.

>>2009802
Retarded advice. There is a huge difference between a modern road bike (or even a vintage road bike) and a 90's rigid MTB and it's not just the bearings and wheels.

Youre not wrong in one way, tires make huge difference on any bicycle.

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>>2009796
Not mine but looks like pic

>>2009797
like
>comfy
>fun

dislikes
>too slow / feels like it takes too much effort to pedal
>>this is *probably* due to being completely original and never having any service to bottom bracket, hubs, derailleurs, and probably even the chain
>>26" wheels probably slower than 650b
>drop bars would be more comfy on longer rides which I'd like to start doing

>>2009801
Don't gravel bikes lean towards a more upright position and wider tires or are there comfy road bikes? I value comfy more than performance

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Nearly $1000 cost if you modernize everything on a $100 bike

>>2009805
>never having any service
do you do any basic maintenance at all? oil the chain, ever replaced it, the brake pads etc? why has it never had any service?

if you're just looking to ride and want something new plus change your geo some, and have the money, its hard to beat something brand new. but you should take care of your stuff in general. a new bike would let you get disc brakes, change geometry, but you could also fix you the old bike and learn that maintenance part too if you're willing. i think it comes down to how much $$ you want to throw at it, but your pic looks like a pretty comfy ride

>>2009806

won't ride any better imo
I'd be just as happy riding a bone stock 90s trek (very happy)

>>2009806
>still needed a setback post with all that post hanging out
neat
>>2009805
Maintenance first, for the sake of learning skills and for your future gravel bike.

Oh, and maybe look into bar ends too. If you get decent designed xc tires(conti race king 2.2) then have a lubed/maintained bike it will be quite a bit faster.
Then after that get a gravel bike or whatever you want.

>>2009808
I changed the brakes, tires, and oil the chain I bought this just to tool around for cheap from some guy who never maintained it. To your point, now I'm wondering which is more cost effective an overhaul or just to start with something newer and maintain it. I'm not looking for the latest and greatest just want it to ride good. Guess I just need to add it all up and see if a newer road/gravel comes out to a better deal

>>2009813
sounds like youre doing the basics at least. i'd say hold out until you're sure about what you want out of the next bike before just buying something new so you get exactly what you want. in the meantime, look at fixing some issues you mentioned like it feels slow/too much effort. do you think thats coming from a bad bb, bad gearing, bad tires? does it make any weird noises? aside from your complaints - does it ride well?
sorry to ask so many questions but it really helps people figure out whats wrong, the more details the better

>>2009813
>I'm wondering which is more cost effective an overhaul or just to start with something newer and maintain it
The best value will be a decent used bike from a local shop which you then regularly maintain. There'll be something suitable for gravel with drop bars at any reasonable used bike shop.

>>2009805
>Not mine but looks like pic
>600x450
fuck off dude

>>2009804
so you're just another one of the no tools lazy retards that thinks as long as a wheel spins then pitted bearings are fine.

>>2009815
I kind of cheaped out on the new road tires so that could be it. Even the stock knobbies felt faster. Maybe I put them on backwards they didn't have a directional arrow so I just guessed or maybe that's just what happens when you have tires that actually have tread
I'd have to look into bad hub / bb symptoms but as far as I know there is nothing outright noticeably wrong with them they spin fine and don't make any bad noise
The chain and cassette could use a degreasing or replacement they are pretty gunked up that probably would help out the most which sounds obvious now that I am typing it out
Only other issue when I ride is 7th gear on the rear slips under load even after tuning the derailleur and no other gear does so maybe the chain is stretched or just needs to be dialed in more

>>2009820
hubs can literally have exploded ball bearings inside them and still 'spin fine'.
If you want a bike that is more efficient/ rolls faster, you have to service your hubs.

It's like $30 to buy the spanners and grease and balls you need.

>>2009821
If they spin fine, why does it matter and why would they need to be serviced? Do they spin noticeably better afterwards?

>>2009823
as i said, hubs can 'spin fine' with pitted cones and exploded balls and totally gunked grease

Bicycle wheels will almost never actually stop rolling. Having bad bearings is going to make the bike far less efficient though.
YOU said you want a bike that can go farther with less effort.

A good test is how long the wheels spin before stopping. Some hubs have quite draggy rubber seals but they should go at least 60 seconds.

Now, your bike has a bunch of minor problems that you can probably easily fix through overhaul and upgrade, but it's not worth doing that if it has cooked hubs because it will never roll that well.

>>2009820
>knobbies felt faster
if this is true you are leaving lots of efficiency on the table. I would recommend you run decently high pressure, service the hubs and any rolling component, make sure your brakes aren't rubbing, and when you want to go fast bend your elbows more to get more aero.

>>2009823
how long do your wheels spin for before stopping?

>>2009820
Cheating out on the tires was a bad move, that’s the most important part to buy high quality it makes the most difference of any component by far

>>2009820
You can check chain wear with a ruler
https://road.cc/content/feature/when-should-you-replace-your-chain-219450?page=1

Friends, what's the fastest you've been on your bike?

>>2009856

Slightly over 50mph
fucking terrifying

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>>2009856
Only ever recorded with Strava so accuracy is questionable

>>2009819
I got my o n cone wrenches thank you. I just think that telling a noob that his bearings are the main reason his shitty old MTB feels slow is retarded. It's a shitty old bike it'll always be slow

>>2009856
48mph but if I go to the same hill and try again I think I can go faster

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Why does a cargo bike need a stem?

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This internal geared hub has 11 gear ratios:
#1 is 0.527
#11 is 2.153

If the sprockets on the bike are front 48t and rear 24t, how does this affect the pedaling experience?
It is a 2:1 ratio with the belt on the sprockets.
Does that mean that gear #1 would be 2 x 0.527 = 1.054? Would top gear be 2 x 2.153 = 4.306?

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i installed a new chain and now the chain slips under power on the cassette
the cassette is only half a year old and doesn't look worn and the shifter is indexed perfectly and shifts great under light pedaling
wtf

>>2009903
It's in the database here and shows you everything you could imagine https://www.gear-calculator.com/

>>2009907
Thank you, this works very well and confirmed my reasoning

>>2009900
for mechanical advantage and rider comfort to better control the steering linkage, same as on any other bike

>>2009904
how worn was your old chain, the cassette might be fucked

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>>2009910
it was a new legit kmc z series chain that i installed with the cassette
i installed a new cassette and now it doesn't skip
the front nw chainring still looks fine compared next to a new one

>>2009900
what alternative would you propose? stems and handlebars are common, cheap, and easy to replace.

>>2009904
if you changed the chain because of wear the cassette might need replacing as well, what brand chain did you use? is it the correct speed?

>>2009910
> for mechanical advantage and rider comfort to better control the steering linkage, same as on any other bike
>>2009913
> what alternative would you propose? stems and handlebars are common, cheap, and easy to replace.
Kek. Apparently you don't need any of those on other cargo bikes and motorcycles.

>>2009912
so the cassette was toast
>nw chainring
so this is a mtb? You need to lube those chain man, and even with that mtb conditions eat drivetrain parts. Add in cross chaining with 1x and this is the result.
>>2009900
Adjustable fit......
>>2009856
Don't know since I don't even strava/gps.
I routinely do around 30-40mph since I am spinning the 52-12 but I am not super sure since I am not great at knowing my cadence. I just know the cars doing 60 near me aren't going that much faster.
tbqh once I go over 30 I am content with just coasting fast, luckily this hill has a divided bike trail lane and I don't have to brake at the bottom, so pedalling down it actually makes sense.

>>2009915
And motorcycles do allow for adjustable fit. With triple clamp bars you can tilt them for and aft, and raise them. You can get risers, or conversions to mtb flat bars with risers.
Oh, but you get to spend money for that.

Bikes are nice since you don't have to if you have a quill stem it can go up and down easily, and threadless/aheadset you can shunt spacers around and flip it.

Fit matters the longer you ride, so cargo bikes designed for 30min/1hour rides dont' need adjustable cockpits, and even then that's a shitty reason.
It's like modern racebikes with 1 piece stem, better nut up and shut up when you get that bike since it's a 1wk+wait to get a new stem+bar.......
This is unironically not progress

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what's the least shitty tool for chain ring bolts

>>2009921
I don't know. I have the park tool one and it works okay if the bolt/nut is super loose. Luckily once it gets tight I don't need the tool and I just crank on the bolts.
Weirdest bolts I have are old ofmega ones.

are shimano shifters all about the same size/shape? could i theoretically swap out my right shifter for a 105, in order to make it a 1x11 bike, and use the left claris shifter just for braking? or should i rather just swap everything out for a 1x11 aliexpress groupset like sensah or l-twoo?

>>2009928
Not all shifters are the same, however if you look at each generation they should be similar. I would just get a right shifter for 1x, and run the stock left one without a shifter cable. Only thing is when braking shimano brake levers can wobble around, but that is NBD really.

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>>2009904
possibly it's slipping on the chainring?
the only time I ever got chain slip, I had properly fucked my whole drivetrain commuting through mud and sand for several months on an old road bike. all gears and chain had to be replaced. this is what the pulleys looked like

>>2009921
I just lay a butter knife across the back part until it gets tight enough that I can torque the allen wrench by itself

>>2009915
fit isnt as important on motorcycles because you arent pedalling (also they don't have a fixed seating position)
a bicycle has to accommodate bio-mechanical movement its why there are a variety of frame sizes offered

>>2009928

A bike with one chainring is not the same as a 1x bike bro

>>2009947
?

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>>2009928
Of the latest generation, I can say that sora and Ultegra feel the same. So it's probably the case that Claris and 105 also feel the same. But I can't speak from experience.

Other dude was talking about how your front chainring needs to be a narrow-wide btw, if you didn't know what he was referring to.

>>2009947
it is though, (X)x(Y) just means amount of front chainrings(X) x the amount of cassette gears (Y). maybe with the exception of single speed, but that could theoretically even be defined as 1x1.

>>2009972
I guess the point he was making is that if you have a rear derailleur and you're running 1x without a narrow -wide, then it's going to fuck up constantly and be useless. but you can always keep the FD disconnected from the cable or run one of those tensioner things but yeah you need to address that. which is why a beach cruiser is not considered 1x even though technically it is

>>2009970
i should've been clearer, i currently already have a 1x setup with a narrow-wide chainring and removed front derailleur. i'll probably stick to 8 speed for a while, and buy an 11 speed derailleur, cassette, chain and shifters when this drivetrain is worn out. i feel like i'm too neurotic to be riding around with 2 different front shifters anyway even if they look alike at a glance. trace velo did a video on micronew shifters that look pretty cheap and decent, although some might hate the cable coming out of the side of it.

>>2009975
FYI your 8speed freehub won't accept an 11 speed cassette. You'll either need to get a new freehub (which are specific to your hub) or just go to 10 speed (which will fit).

I've got 10 speed microshift which micronew is the rip off of, and can confirm they are very confident shifters, if a bit clunky and ugly. Easily the best shifting action though, it's baffling that out of all the big names microft shift is the only one to use 2 separate levers instead of all the cracked shit shimano/sram/campy use.

So when do we get cheap drop bar hydraulic breaks?

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>>2009979
I don't fucking know man. Why is it that to just turn the fucking brake lever vertical is so much more money

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Can I use 10 speed Microshift Advent X shifter & derailleur with a SRAM 10spd XD rear cassette?

I know the safe answer is "no" but it's all so confusing these days that I thought I'd check. would save me from buying a freehub

>>2009976
i'm currently running a dt swiss wheelset with a freehub that's 10-12speed, with a spacer for my 8 speed cassette. bigger issue is it's noisy like a chainsaw, i guess it's good that people hear me coming but i think i'd prefer one that's dead silent.
the micro shift/new type does seem simpler and more intuitive, the shimano design feels a bit more wobbly too since the whole lever moves side to side.
>>2009982
i think microshift/shimano has a different derailleur cable pull ratio from sram, but i'm not sure if it affects the distance it moves on the cassette.

>>2009982
>xd rear cassette
This is based on the hub driver, if it's XDR/sram spec you need that hub. If it's shimano then you need that one, and if it's microspline shimano you need that one.
Your shifter needs to align with the cassette spacing, and the derailleur pull If you run advent x shifter and rear derailleur just get a 10 speed cassette that fits your hub, and has the correct spacing. Cassette spacing is generally standardized unless you get pre 8 speed, campagnolo, or probably something weird.

>>2009983
Noisy cassettes have to due with lubrication, derailleur alignment, and wear.
I have very quiet freewheels(sub 8 speed), and quiet 8 speed drivetrains. It's almost always lack of lubrication or derailleur alignment.

>>2009984
>It's based on the hub driver
Yes sir I know, I have a spare wheelset with a SRAM XD freehub on it. Rather than buy a HG freehub and a microshift casette, I could just buy a SRAM casette.
>If you run advent x shifter and rear derailleur just get a 10 speed cassette that fits your hub, and has the correct spacing.
Ok so yes? I don't know if the cassette spacing is the same which is why I'm asking. But it sounds like maybe?

>>2009979
A bit after we get cheap mtb hardware-compatible drop bars

>>2009985
What you say is true but you ignore that it's a trend to have the loudest possible freehubs by design

>>2009976
>microft shift is the only one to use 2 separate levers instead of all the cracked shit shimano/sram/campy use.
different guy here.
huh, I guess I'm glad I got microshift for my budget build. I just blindly went with them since between them, MN, and sensah, MS has been in business longer.
I figured all brifters had two levers since that's how mtb triggers do it, but I'm really happy I picked the right one now!
they work fine and have not given me any problems, though not the tightest feel on the big lever, I guess. the button one is pretty snappy, though. I have to double click the one to downshift the FD for some reason, but the big lever will catch the big ring all the way but its a really long push.
whatever, I like it except the double click thing but I'm used to it now. I run 53/38t, though. I guess that's a lot .
I can't believe campy and dura ace don't have 2 levers, that's crazy

>>2009988
Geniunely I don't know. It should work, but you won't really know until you set it up, ask on other forums, or get a cheap XDDDD cassette and find out.
>>2009992
> I have to double click the one to downshift the FD for some reason,
Could be trim. All good shifters for FD's have a trim function when you are semi-cross chaining. Like when you go small to smallest or 2nd smallest you might need to move the fd over a little.
Same when you go big to bigger/biggest cog.
>I can't believe campy and dura ace don't have 2 levers, that's crazy
Campy has always been 2 levers. Lever behind brake is downshift, thumb lever is upshift. Ergopower is still my favorite design and why I like L-twoo and other thumb shift options.
Shimano is STI(shimano total integration) which is the brake+second lever is downshift, and the lever behind the brake is upshift. This is why the whole brake lever can be wobbly, since the whole thing has to pivot in to upshift.

Sram have only 1 lever. Short click is upshift, long click is downshift.
I can already see myself multi long clicking to get to an easier gear...

>>2009921
buying bolts that use double allen keys instead of that slotted thing

>>2009974
every single speed is a 1x, beach cruisers with multiple gears but a single ring are also 1x

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>>2009992
The other companies systems WORK don't get me wrong. But they have such unintuitive designs compared to micro shift that its weird the newer company thought of "one button up, one button down" first.
Shit pisses me off why is road shit so wack compared to mtb

Post a pic of your bike

>>2009994
Ye I suppose I'll just buy a used cassette and see. Or maybe an aliexpress special

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>>2009992
Also that double click on your FD has gotta be the trim function, google it but its basically an "inbetween" that lets you crosschain a bit without the FD rubbing

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>>2009928
>convert from 2x Claris to 1x chinkshit

great, throw money away downgrading your bike

>>2009996
>its weird the newer company thought of "one button up, one button down" first.
The fuck are you guys talking about? That's how shimano and campy work.

>>2009992
With shimano atleast, if you do a longer throw of the shift lever, it skips over the trim position.

>>2009975
If you did go to 11 speed (r e t a r d e d), you can install the cassette on your freehub minus 1 cog, and then one click on your shifter just does nothing. Sheldon has a page on this called 8 of 9. Then upgrade your wheels later.

>>2009974
>if you have a rear derailleur and you're running 1x without a narrow -wide, then it's going to fuck up constantly and be useless.

that's not true. 1x works perfectly fine with no chain retention, as long as you keep pedaling on rough shit and don't pop curbs etc.

I have a shopping bike setup 1x7 and it doesn't drop chains.

>>2009982

fuck me I was about to rec the jtek shiftmate as a possible solution but their site 503s. are they GONE?

>>2009996
I have heard pretty good things about aliexpress cassettes, just know some are all aluminum and lightweight+wear fast, some a billet steel(fancy) and probably the cheapest ones don't shift as nice.
My first foray was a sunrace cassette. 10 sp 12-42 and it's been pretty good so far.
>>2010008
Lots of companies died after the covid boom. I am still sad about blackspire. They had some neat products to run 2x of ISCG05 tabs

>>2009979
Cues will probably have them

>>2010047
it's been a year

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>>2010000
Shimano
>One lever for up shifts, nice
>Throw THE ENTIRE BRAKE LEVER for down shifts. Retarded

Campy
>One lever for up shifts, nice
>One SHITTY WEIRD THUMB LEVER for down shifts that's ALWAYS in a weird place.

I'm being hyperbolic, I use Shimano on all my road bikes and enjoy it. And I've used old campy and the microratchet thumb lever was beautiful. But it's all just a little bit weird compared to how simple Microshift is laid out.

>>2010008
I'd rather just get a new freehub anyways that shit looks jank

So right now I'm using my partner's MTB (lockable front suspension) for riding but outside of its purpose it's obviously kinda slow. Would changing the tires to a more gravel style make it more fun to ride on roads and well, gravel. Or is the geometry just not designed for this type of riding and I should save up for my own bike.

Is there any gravel bike with IGH?

>>2010114
Going to slicks might save you as much as 30 watts but probably more like 10. As an untrained rider you are probably putting down less than 1 watt per kilogram of bodyweight. So yeah you can throw money at the problem and immediately go faster but not dramatically faster. Better to just ride.

>>2010114
New tires will definitely make it feel faster, easy fix. Beyond that you'll have to get a proper road/gravel bike

when using 2x drive train and you shift to the smaller ring up front...do shift to small cogs in the back at around the same time? And vice versa for going back to the big chainring?
Otherwise the jumps are too big....am I missing something?

>>2010129
>front...do shift to small cogs in the back at around the same time?

Usually yeah

>>2010135
Yes I usually up/down shift 2 or 3 times at the rear every time time down/up shift the front

>>2009999
how is it a downgrade when i never used the small chainring to begin with? it's just cutting off dead weight.

>>2010000
>(r e t a r d e d)
why?
>install the cassette on your freehub minus 1 cog
my freebody is compatible with 11 speed.

>>2010127
I'm not trying to maximize watts just improve ride feel. The knobbies on it just lose a lot of speed fast and make pedalling harder

Can I use a “smaller” tube for a 28mm tire?

The tube I have is labeled for up to 25mm

>>2010172
Actually I’m just gonna try patching the old one

>>2010172

yeah it's fine. tubes don't really care what size your tire is. I've seen people do weird shit like put a 26" tube in a 29" tire. As long as nothing pinches you won't have any problems.

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>>2010172
>>2010174
Wtf is wrong with it

>>2010176
I’m retarded. Nevermind

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>>2009982
>>2009983
>>2009984
>>2009994
>>2010008
Based Microshift

Speaking of microshift
is the sword any good? thinking of getting the 2x version

>>2010192
nice!
I think in general there is a lot more compatibillity with derailleurs and shifters than people think.
I wanted to buy a 10spd Sram derailer for use with an 11 speed shifter and cassette and the bike shop panicked as I expressed this. This was during covid, when everything was sold out.
As long as the cable pull/DR movement ratio is the same you have wide compatibillity.
I also make excessive use of DR extenders such as Wolf Tooth instead of buying expensive new wide range DRs

>>2010146
get a bigger big ring

my new chain skips under heavy load
did I not shorten it enough? can I fix it with tightening the derailer spring?

>>2010213
The advent x is pretty good outright, I'd imagine the sword is great. But it's pretty new to the market so reviews will be hard to stumble across for awhile.

It looks dope that's for sure

>>2010264
Post pics of chainrings and sprockets.
Chain skipping is usually not a chain lengh problem

>>2010264
Cable tension might be wrong, start with that. Follow the park tools video on derailleur adjustment
Next id ask if it's happening on certain gears (bigger or smaller cogs, on one end of your cassette) which would indicate the derailleur hanger is bent. Probably a bike shop job but ever since I bought my own o found myself using it at least a few times a year.

>>2010146
You're sacrificing the big benefit of large gear range for a tiny weight saving which makes it a downgrade.
>i never used the small chainring to begin with
ohh what a boi

>>2010264
new chain + old cassette/freewheel = guaranteed skipping (and guaranteed shortened chain lifespan)

>>2010272
replace at .75 stretch and you can get 2-3 chains from a cassette

likewise 2-3 cassettes from chainrings.

What are a good pair of wheels, preferable carbon, with compatibility of having 34mm tyres?

Are ultrasonic cleaners worth it? It seems that it can also strip paint.

>>2010286
HED, ENVE, Zipp

>>2010297
They weren't cheap...I better save lots of money then

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why can't i find these curvy sexxo drops in 31.8mm diameter? do I really have to get a new 26.whatever to 24.5mm stem? couldn't even find them on ali and everything seems to be 420mm wide wtf

>>2010306
Just get a shim

>>2010302
Those are just the dentist brands, there are cheaper options

>>2010314
Any examples?

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>>2010266
this?

>>2010267
well it shifts kinda bad but no amount of adjusting helps. need new shifters probably.
I'm not sure which cogs but when there's a lot of pressure, so if I forgot to switch and going up hill or starting fasst.

>>2010272
what the fuck? if that's true why would I Change chains instead of just using the old rusty one that doesn't skip?

>>2010262
i did, i went from 50t to 52t
>>2010268
>You're sacrificing the big benefit of large gear range
how is it a sacrifice if i never used it to begin with?
>ohh what a boi
???

>>2010322
The teeth of the cogs seem very worn out

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>>2010325
so is there nothing that can be done? I don't want to buy new stuff

>>2010328
Your cassette does not look worn out enough to be a problem, it’s likely just that the chain length isn’t perfect or you need to turn a few knobs or clean shit

>>2010322
>>2010328

Hanger looks sus, cable housing bend looks sus, cogs look hella sus

>>2010325
>>2010328

they're all still square on the tips. they're barely worn at all. theyre bad when the tips are rounded

>>2010335
>>2010331
The leading edge of some of those cogs is clearly worn. Look at the one the chain is on and the one smaller.
But also yeah hanger is probably a touch bent, housing and cable look a little crusty, shifter could likely use a flushing with solvent or hot water.

>>2010267
A spare QR rear wheel can also be used to align a hanger. Just thread the axle into the hanger and get the wheels parallel.

>>2010335
I mean it’s not good but it certainly shouldn’t be unusable

>>2010355
>The leading edge of some of those cogs is clearly worn
I see you are unfamiliar with the concept of "Hyperglide"

>>2010331
turn a few knobs?
I think I should shorten it. guy was helping me out new chain on and I'm not sure he eyeballed it good.
and that is cleaned, believe it or not. I need to buy some tools to remove everything so I can clean it properly.
is there an easy way to get rust off?

>>2010332
hanger is the same as the thing above it where the baggage is screwed in, I think it's like it always was. housing is old and cracked but it's an old bike.

>>2010355
housing is very old, cable too, and shifters need to be overdone constantly to shift, I think I pinched the shift cable when I was installing the new legs so it might be bent a little
but it all worked on the new chain without skipsnat least.
also what kind of solvent? all I have is sole multiuser spray penetrating oil, that supposedly cleans too

>>2010364
you can see the metal folded over, that's not hyperglide

Where can I find 2x chain ring set that is 44-28T at front with a cassette of 11-40 at the rear?

Hey guys i want to restore my 90s Trek MB but i want to put a suspension fork for more confort i plan to buy a chink one since it's cheap and i don't plan to do hard offroad, have you try one and which one is not a complete junk ?

>>2010388
How cheap are the chink ones because under £150 is cheap enough for a fork imo. A rockshox Judy or suntour xcr air are that price new, basically nothing used and will be fine for xc but most importantly won't explode

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Anyone know how decal is printed?
Is it a screen print?