Pretty asian girls sweating editionResources:https://www.sheldonbrown.com/https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-helpPeak Torque on YoutubePrevious>>2014872
>>2016881If you're riding all year round regardless of weather, your "forever lights" that take replaceable batteries are going to eventually fail anyway because in electronics vs. weather the electronics are not going to win. Sure maybe you could rip it open and fix a corroded board but then what? Fabricate proprietary replacement gaskets too? At some point it's just easier to buy a new one every 3-4 years, which is about the service life of an integrated battery.. I look forward to the condescending responses from the MGTOW DIY cultists saying they saved $20 a year by having $400 worth of tools and spare parts shitting up their living space.t. was using replaceable battery lights back in the day
>>2016884oh I forgot to inb4, inb4 "but you had ali express garbage", no, I've only ever bought mainstream prestige brands, my last "non integrated battery" light that eventually failed on me was a busch & muller ordered directly from germany, if that's ali express garbage I'd like to hear what you consider good enough
>>2016856Do pretty Asian girls on bicycles really exist?
>>2016892Where can I get a pretty Asian girl on a bicycle?
>>2016893How do I approach pretty Asian girls on bicycles?
How big of a meme are gravel bikes? Kona rove is about $400 cheaper than any endurance bike with disc brakes and there are no used road bikes around me. Entry level endurance bikes with rim brakes max out at 28mm width tires. I want comfort and speed. Would I just be trading comfort for speed and could I just put thinner tires on the gravel bike or am I missing something?
>>2016895All these things are just words, at the end of the day you need to compare the build and the geometry because there are "endurance" road bikes that ride more like an all-rounder race machine, and there are "gravel" bikes that ride more like an endurance road bike. Link the kona build and what else are you comparing the kona to, specifically.
>>2016895anon above regarding geometry and build is right, there's a lot of crossover and marketing memery regarding bike classification so the best way to approach any bike is to compare geometries. With that said, gravel bikes are a bike meme yes, endurance bikes with clearance for wider tires but that's a good thing at finding a middle ground between road bikes and xc mtbs so they make good all-rounders, master of none. Now as to why the Kona Rove specifically might be significantly cheaper is that it's steel which implies less race focused and lower production cost.
>>2016892What's up with those hoods, did they chop off the cables or shoop them out?
>>2016897>>2016900These are the bikes I'm considering but open to others. I don't know enough about geometry specs to tell what it would feel likeRove: https://www.konaworld.com/products/rove-al-650-1Contend: https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/contend-ar-4-2025Domane: https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/road-bikes/performance-road-bikes/domane/domane-al/domane-al-2-gen-3/p/33083/?colorCode=blue_black Allez: https://www.specialized.com/us/en/allez/p/199980?color=322608-199980
>>2016902I didn't know an AL Rove with stock 650 size wheels exists, that's sick for entry level bike. It's a different bike compared to the others you posted, they all have comparable groupsets, Claris group with Tektro mechanicals. The geo of the Rove is a slacker and softer but it also has smaller and wider 650 wheels and an aluminum fork compared to carbon with the endurance bikes and that's where I think the cost difference is, the carbon fork. This is a case where you have to ask yourself, speed and handling or comfort and all-terrain? The Rove will ride much comfier than the endurance bikes I think
>>2016901electronic, presumably
>>2016895the rove al is 11.4kg something like a domane or canyon endurance with discs is sub 10kg
>>2016903Yeah it seems like a great deal my biggest gripe with my current bike is how slow it is and how much energy it takes to keep it rolling I think the rove would be fast enough but I don't know
>>2016908what kind of bike is your current bike? If your current bike is slow but comfy then ask yourself if you'll really need another comfy and slow bike, sure it could be less slow than your current bike but if you desire speed then the endurance bikes will leave the Rove in the dust. There's also things you can do to your current bike that'll make it less slow, at the end of the day speed comes from your legs, not your bike.
>>2016908one last thing I forgot to mention that might be a big thing if you desire speed and handling, not a lot of performance road tires are made in ISO 584 (650b/27.5") which limits the Rove's options for speed on paved roads. The standard road tire size is ISO 622 (700c/29"). Off-road options are plenty enough for 584 wheels however. Keep this in mind when making your mind which bike you want.
>>2016910That's a good point. I got a rigid mtb right now. Drop bars are also another reason I want a different bike. I've serviced everything except the hubs. If it's still slow after I get around to that, I think I'll go full on roadie
>>2016905The contrast colors on shimano brifters were only a thing for a few years in the 00s though I think, and I don't think there was a Di2 in that style
>>2016901they're right there
>>2016913Things to make a rigid mtb faster besides getting fitter/riding harder>better tiresIf you have cleated mtb tires, heavy tires, or underinflated tires this is a huge deal. Especially when climbing or coasting.>aeroWhen descending, coasting, or riding against a headwind try and tuck in to a better position.>efficiencylubed chain, greased bb, wheels, good pedals/shoes if that's an issueI do ride faster on a road bike then a mtb, but I don't feel too "slow" on my rigid mtb, I just go a little slower on the flats, but generally still climb pretty good if not better due to easier gears.Remember, fitness is king for speed.
>>2016884a dynamo with a light set will still fail you every few yearsthe lights will need regular shortening and reattaching of the corroded cablesone day they'll blow the rectifying diode or the LEDand every 3 or so cycles of replacing the light set the dynamo, hub or tire doesnt matter, will failbest is probably buying super high quality sealed lamps, charge them inside every night and enjoy somewhat longer service lifeyou cant win
>>2016856so i tried slamming the stem, everything checked out except for the top cap which no longer seems to fit. did i fuck up? it feels like the compression plug bolt is too far down to reach the threaded top cap.
>>2017045for reference it looks somewhat like this
>>2017046>>2017045like you put the top cap on and it just goes all the way down without engaging the threads?
>>2017048yes exactly, i was able too unscrew it with only about half a turn, and now i doesn't reach the thread when i try to screw it back on. should i just try to undo the plug and move it up higher in the steerer tube?
>>2017049Yeah move it so that the thread properly engages. I recently slammed my stem as well and my expander has this neat little lip so that it always sits at the correct height.
>>2017049yes. take it all the way out, thread the top cap onto it like a good 3 turns, drop the whole thing into the steerer, and then tighten the plug. then you know it's at a good depth.
>>2016856Is it gay to run a trispoke front wheel on a normal road bike?
>>2017068it probably means youre going slow and riding on the sidewalk also 'urban cycling' and such
>>2017068no but it offers no benefit whatsoever
>>2017068Only if you are foaming, since that means you are gay and are loaded up.I would be quite happy to have a 3 spoke wheel out of carbon,mag, or aluminum just for the novelty.
is it an unspoken meme that Si is packing an enormous hog?
>>2017093whenever people talk about youtubers like they're personal friends it reminds me of 1984 or brave new world or whatever .the book we all read in grade school where the wife thinks the people in the talking picture are her friends
>>2017089>foamingthis is the first time I've seen this word used in this context. what is the meaning?
>>2017117you talk about your friends cocks?
Just bought a new 28" hybrid bike (upgrading from old 15yo 26" MTB) and the only frame size that fit me was S, the frame clearance being just 1cm from between my legs.The issue is that when I make a sharp turn while pedaling, my shoe sometimes gets scuffed on the front wheel.I've never used a 28" bike before. Is this normal for modern bike geometry or in general? Is this an issue?
>>2017145I can't find the picture, but it's on the internet and reddit.It's uhhh nasty.>>2017202 you have a short inseam. That issue is called "toe overlap" and is the reason smaller people/frames are better suited for smaller wheels.Still, all that happens is you just adapt, or pedal with the ball of your foot instead of midfoot, if that's an issue.You can get around this by having smaller tires too, but that may be less comfortable.It's an issue with bike design+frame size, generally I heard it was more of an issue with xs frames or frames with a tight head angle+short front center. If the designer "pushed/raked" the front wheel out further and tweaked the geo it would have been less of an issue, but that requires smart designers.Or just run smaller tires/wheels.
This anon again (>>2016902)How is salsa?https://www.rei.com/product/184749/salsa-journeyer-claris-700-bikeThis seems to check all my boxes of comfy, cheap 700c endurance bike. Looks like I'd be giving up carbon fork and tubeless ready wheels but I'm not sure I'd appreciate that enough at my level of riding anyway. Although, if I did eventually want to upgrade, I imagine the salsa would have worse resale value but I'd also be suprised if I sold it instead of just keeping it as a backup bike
>>2017204>smaller people/frames are better suited for smaller wheelsI figured as much. The only new bikes being sold here are 28". 26" seems to be a dead format, so I guess the only way to go is adapt.
>>2017207Yeah, it's an old conundrum, and 650b/27.5 was utilized to solve it BITD. They used to make women only frames with 700c rear and 650b(or other) fronts.My mom fits really small frames and it's 700c but most have a slacker headtube angle to shunt the front wheel out, and that was when 700cx21 tires were common. Oh, and 28in is similar/if not the same to 700c. It's just a labeling thing.>>2017205Salsa is a pretty old brand, they used to make MTB parts in the 90's and seems they are still around.Looks like a fine workhorse bike that can do whatever you need up to gravel/light mtb work.You don't need a carbon fork or tubeless ready wheels to ride.If you later get a fancier bike this can still be good for harder/dirtier rides, and can run different tires for road work or commuting too.Since it's at REI see if one's nearby so you can check it out and feel out the sizes.
>>2017202My XXL road bike has toe overlapprevious L road bike had toe overlapMany years ago, i was climbing a very steep path in town, sprinting, out of the saddle, and turned sharply and my clipless shoe wedged on the tire and the entire bike flipped over and lying in a heap in the ground still clipped in i was laughing and this lady was laughing at me. Over time you get used to toe overlap, your brain will learn to just naturally avoid what causes it, and it's not really going to limit you in any real way. I don't care if bikes have it or not, actually, steeper headtube is usually a sign of a nicer bike. Bikes with fenders usually have it to.
I just replaced my chain and the chain checker tool indicated that the old one had more than 100% wear. How is that possible?
>>2017218I have never had a chain checker that gives a readout in percent
>>2017205the big difference between the Kona and Salsa gravel bikes you're looking at and those road bikes is that the road bikes have a carbon fork and the gravel bikes have an aluminium fork. The carbon fork will ride much better. Aluminium on the gravel bikes makes sense at the lower price point because the wider tires take up the work of giving you a good ride quality, and they're designed to be loaded with gear. I suspect that even with the narrower tires, the road bikes would have a better ride quality under certain circumstances, being, actually riding it. Gravel bike will be comfier for cruising on. Really the critical thing for comfort is having the fit that you want, which, as a casual probably means high enough and close enough bars. That is not unachievable with a road bike but it's less likely to be the default fit you get.
>>2017218all of mine are push in types were the shorter side is for 8sp and older, and the longer side is for single speed chains.I don't know about your tool, but you can always measure with a ruler too.
>>2017205>How is salsa?Salsa is a very cool old brand. Their stems are peak retro bling and sell for high prices now (pic rel is ridiculous but you get the point). Current Salsa is QBP (surly, all city, etc) so it's fairly generic. That Salsa specifically is a reasonably nice bike. The gearing is very sensible and it has a lot of bosses. The brake and crank spec is cost cutting, but both those things are upgradeable in future if they cause issues, if not, they're fine. Personally I wouldn't buy a gravel bike unless it was specifically for riding gravel routes or touring on, or, shopping. A road bike is just lighter and faster and you might make all these concessions to 'comfort' but then how comfortable is it dragging a less efficient bike up a hill? Not a huge fan of cream bikes either but the Salsa graphics are cool and I like the brand.
>>2017218https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QWemvEfYoBYRJ has a good video explaining chain stretch. Usually it's put as 0.75%-1% etc so i think it's just notation. 100% is 1%Anyway, unless it's recently frankenbiked together, that probably means your entire drivetrain is shot. I would have probably ridden it all into the ground together until it starts skipping. Does your new chain not skip?
>>2017222
Can I get some suggestions for low-profile front lights? I want something strong enough to illuminate the road ahead of me since the roads in Massachusetts are like the surface of the moon but I like having my handlebars clear so if it mounts to the handlebars it should hand under them or mount to the head tube. Bonus points if it runs on 18650 batteries instead of an un-removable internal one.
>>2017232If you want a clean cockpit, you can get many different adapters to go on fork bosses at the crown, mid or by the axle, or make one. That might make sense especially as you want other meme specifications too. upside down mounts exist but do not mount a light sideways or upside down unless it's just a cheap flasher.
>>2017233>do not mount a light sideways or upside down unless it's just a cheap flasher.nta but why do you say that
>>2017234decent headlights have shaped beams with cutoffs at the top so if you mount them upside down or sideways they'll be shining in everyone's eyes including yours if you're out of the saddle
>>2017236your definition of "decent" is just urbanism meme shit, most decent headlights are not stvzo garbage, and stvzo garbage is totally unsuited for the less controlled riding conditions that non-germans have to contend with> including yours if you're out of the saddlereal life is not anime
>>2017233Thanks. Is there any good options for a fork crown mount that isn't ugly as fuck? I think my perfect light would mount right on the handlebar clamp, I really like having it centered.
>>2017237>not midousujimaxxingweak and loserpilled
>>2017117Fahrenheit 451. I agree and feel the same way but worse when my 80 year old dad watches rachel maddow on his 90 inch flatscreen. Her head is literally like 4 feet tall telling him what to believe.
>>2017257>>2017117We skipped those in my class Or, I forgot what entailed but I think we were supposed to read them in middle school.Only books I remember are animal farm, the giver, and some others.
>>2017237Beams with that wedge are ALWAYS stupid on single track vehicles. Because of their cornering making it necessary to lean.Meanwhile no one talks about fucking nutjob boomers on their electric pedal-motorcycles pointing their light at the sky, the horizon and maybe at other things but always in your eyes.Or the cagers demonstrating their braindamage by never cutting the high beam when coming on to pedestrians or cyclists. Only equally degenerate motorists matter to motorists.Also riding conditions in germany are somewhere between average to worse, depending on your priorities.
Wearable-like-a-belt Litelok Go Flexi-O would be the most convenient lock for me. The problem is: it is not released yet, and I'm getting impatient.What are some good alternatives?I have no need to lock my bike outside for a long time, I only need to lock it for 2-3 minutes when I visit a supermarket, so I'm not interested in any super secure heavy lock. But I'm not willing to trust a $10 Lidl lock either.
>>2017237Most people do not ride empty trails in the dark. And it is not just stvzo headlights that have a shaped beam and a cutoff. Practically ALL bicycle headlights have those things. The exceptions are hyper specific expensive and powerful trail lights, and chinkshit flashlights chinked to bike mounts. In short you live in a delusional fantasy land and whatever reactionary garbage meme you're trying to get on here is entirely alienated from reality.
>>2017238you can do that, there are stem faceplate mounts this is also the sort of thing where if you have autistic preferences, it's a shame to also be useless and need to just buy something
>>2017282I just wear my lock around my neck if I'm on a bike that doesn't accomodate for it and I'm visiting a place that has elements in the population that require me to lock the bike. Why the belt thing?
>>2017298> Why the belt thing?I assume it'd be more comfortable than having it rub against my neck.
>>2017275got nothing to do with cornering, it's the overall brightness of the thing. the brightness limit under german law is a fraction of a motor vehicle's allowed output but we're supposed to share the same roadways as vehicles that have actual lighting and then get doored/right hooked/whatever because no one can see us with these little christmas lights, and as we're bleeding out just smile and thank the motorist and the NJB guy for "supporting walkable cities", fuck that shit>>2017283there's no reason to try to correct you because you have urbanism brainrot, you need to touch grass. you're beyond help
For reference here is the beam pattern on a decent american headlight sold by trek, an american company, under the bontrager brand, for commute/road use, for about $130. Not sure if this counts as "hyper specific expensive" or "chinkshit", perhaps both, it's schrodinger's bike lightAs we can see the beam is somewhat stretched horizontally which makes sense, but there is no cutoff, thus allowing it to be mounted over or under the bars and it makes no difference
>>2017304what lights do you even use? I have a aliexpress newboler LIG113 1000 lumen and that has a cutoff. even the most basic bicycle lights have the housing shaped as a kind of cutoff. what fucking bicycle lights do you think work well upside down? why is the idea of not blinding others offensive? Not everything is intersectional, tranny. Just because people use regular bicycle lights doesn't mean they're urbanists or whatever the fuck else.
>>2017306bad design>a decent american headlightlmao
>>2017312>I bought a counterfeit of a shit tier germoid light because I couldn't even afford to be a real urbanistgrim
>>2017314i have son/schmidt system as well i have a bunch of lights you said the problem was that they're dim, how is 1000 lumen dim?
>>2017316you have stockholm syndrome, I hope you find peace
>>2017318not everything is your culture war garbage.
>>2017319you sure about that? you can't even post about lights without having a meltdown about trannies
239 km (day 1: 92, day 2: 147 down, 1040 km more to go. Hoping to maintain the pace of day 2. bought this new for 100$ in vietnam. Probably all aluminum. Not too thick tubing, but sturdy enough.You think i can make it on this baby?>>>out/2772525
>>2017333judging by the tension on those brake cables they are probably not very effective, I hope there aren't any hills in viet nam
>>2017306That looks like the pattern from an Ion light, which is also marketed for offroad use where you would actually want a full spread light. You'd just point it slightly downward for use on road. Trek makes a Commuter light now that uses a cutoff beam and the headlights included on their ebikes also are cutoff pattern.
Nu-steel road bike: kino or hipster cringe?
>>2017350they're just kowtowing to the customers who think they know better than people who actually ride, it's the bike light equivalent of a front suspension hybrid with knobby tires
>>2017354>cable dicksbelongs in the trash
>Europeans seething that they can’t mount their lights upside down
>>2017354nu-steel is kino but the push to make it comparative in weight to lighter materials compromises its integrity compared to heavy old steel.
I took out the cup-and-cone-type bottom bracket (Shimano Deore BB-MT60) from my old bike to reapply grease. The spindle, cone surface, and the bearings are all fine, but the rubber seals have become brittle from age and broken off into pieces from me trying to disassemble and clean the BB.Are there replacement rubber seals for these, or should I just give up on this BB?
>>2017403IDK about where to get seals, but you can try running them without it. Mine tend to weap a little grease between that interface anyways, but IDK how much of a gap you have. So, I would try it out. Otherwise you can measure the dimensions of the seal or where it should land and look for one online.
>>2017403you need a local co-op or boomer shop that hoards garbage and you can probably pick though it and find some other than that your best bet is probably getting an o-ring that fits on the axle, that will seal a bit. you could also tear a strip of thin duct tape and go round and round on the axle, or just run without.
>>2017405>>2017408Thanks.
i want to get into cycling but here's my problem: there's a big cycling culture in my country and everyone seems to have fancy bikes with all the equipment. i get fomo with my cheap decathlon road bike. using it makes me feel like a poser, so i'm thinking of getting a secondhand entry-level road bike that i can be proud of, any suggestions?
>>2017438Go to Walmart in your country. Walmart unironically has insanely good bikes that are very cheap. I ride a $250 hybrid bike from Walmart that gets me an average of 17 - 19 mph average and a 175 watt - 250 watt average. It beat the $1000 bike that I had before, because the proprietary wheels it has are top notch and the best thing about the bike. Walmart gets all their bikes from Chinese manufacturers. So If you don't have Walmart in your country, you could try ordering directly from China.
>>2017442thanks, but no walmart in my country
>90s aluminium xc race bike with triple butted tubingwhat's the chance of frame snappage
>>2017448Bigger question is what are your plans for the frame?>modern xc/downcountryprobably too much>modern gravel/old school xcprobably fine.Whatever you do get a decent fork with a disk brake if you plan on doing techy stuff.>>2017438post bikes you are interested in.
>>2017450Road bikes, I don't know enough to have a specific preference. I just want something nice that I can enjoy using
>>2017457Don't let dumbass mechanics dictate what bike you should get. Especially if you're concern is speed. Bike mechanics know fuck all about that, so they'll just recommend that you upgrade to full carbon, and give you the most expensive, shittiest wheels for your road bike. Don't fall for the tech and weight meme, do your own research and try cheap bikes or yourself. Move up to the more expensive upgrades instead of getting them flat out because you have the money. After they're done with you, you'll have spent thousands of dollars to go as fast as a mountain bike.They are FILTHY casuals and will scam you.
>>2017458My concern isn't speed, really. Is there any benefit to getting something expensive as opposed to cheap and functional besides speed/weight? Ideally I just want the bare minimum that I can use to compete in triathlons
>>2017462Complete triathlons rather than compete, not aiming to win
>>2016895Rove likely a 1x and thus slower top end speed
>>2016902Dont buy an aluminum forked bike. If you do that and are cheap buy a giant contend basic model.
>>2017462if you can finish triathlons anywhere other than dead last, then nobody can say shit about your bike. don't needlessly consoom.where is this culture of freds? I'm just curious
>>2017403can you please whip out calipers and do as good of a job as possible measuring the following:OD of the seal, ID of the seal, depth (axial dimension) of the seal. Also can you spot a spiral spring when looking from the rear? Is there exposed metal along the OD of the seal where it's pressed into the seal? Any markings?Bonus if you can sketch the lip of the seal. I'll provide an example sketch.Don't sweat it. The originally specified seal might not even have been a good choice and it's a very forgiving situation.
>>2017545thanks, that's actually the conclusion i reached myself this afternoon
>>2017470What's wrong with an aluminum fork?
If I'm switching brands of chain lube or I don't know what the factory lube on the chain was should I strip or clean the chain before applying a new lubricant?
>>2017574I don't think it's important, imo. as always, wipe off the excess thoroughly is my only recommendation.do a deep clean if you're chain is nasty and dirty, but otherwise just lube and wipe
>>2017574If you are using drip oil or wax just drip it on, for wax you are supposed to clean/strip it off of the stock coating.All oils you can just drip it on, and then clean it when it gets gunky/nasty enough you don't like it.
>>2017438>i want to get into cycling but here's my problem: there's a big cycling culture in my country and everyone seems to have fancy bikes with all the equipment. i get fomo with my cheap decathlon road bike. using it makes me feel like a poser>>2017462>bare minimum that I can use to compete in triathlonsIt's more important that your bike is setup well, and any bike can be setup well. I've seen a lot of freds with expensive bikes that have loud clicky out of index drivetrains and bad fits. Make sure it's in good mechanical condition. De-clutter it, get rid of the reflectors, dork disc, consider de-stickering the rims and remove the warning stickers. Run clipless pedals and bottle cages. Have a pump and spare tube. Setup the fit well. Get expensive tires, brake pads, and bartape. Get some nice kit to wear.And of course, make sure you have a bike with paint you like, but that isn't a cheap vs expensive thing. Do not buy a bike with paint you do not like. And remember that everyone looks stupid on a road bike until you're on some big climb way out and then you look cool. >>2017462>Is there any benefit to getting something expensive as opposed to cheap and functional besides speed/weight?Entry level shimano road groups used to be gimped but now even the most basic claris bikes function more or less the same as the high end stuff albeit with marginaly degraded preformance. The one fundamental piece of spec on a road bike is to get a carbon fork, because if you're actually riding big miles then that will mitigate fatigue which is very important if you're serious about being strong.
>>2017574i can see where you might have gotten that idea from but it's not the same for bikes. it absolutely does not matter. If you have a quicklink you can remove your chain and cycle it in solvent to clean it but it's pretty much not worth it and imo the best way is just to re-apply dry lube when it gets noisy and run it through a rag after 10 mins. Also, put a flathead screwdriver against your jockey wheels and run it around to remove the gunk there, clean your chainrings with a wet/soapy rag. Changing your chain is the way to get a clean chain and when you do that remove your cassette and jockey wheels to clean them fully.
>>2017550The non-drivetrain side seal completely disintegrated, and I measured just on the metal.I.D. - 19.2 mmO.D. - 22.0 mm (edge-to-edge on the indent where the rubber seal is supposed to rest)depth - 5.4 mm (inside indent to most protruding part of the outside face, I imagine the rubber seal would have to be at least 1 mm thicker than the measurement)The drivetrain side still have the rubber seal on, but it's cracking. I measured with the rubber seal in place.I.D. - 17.0 mmO.D. - 22.0 mmDepth - 4.6 mm
>>2017550>>2017598this is cute but to what ends lmao you gonna make him a seal?
>>2017601can he turn me into me a tyrannosaurus rex?
>>2017601I'm hoping for an Aliexpress link or a write-up of an extremely detailed and autistic way to Macgyver a rubber seal to size from old inner tube and some glue or some shit like that.
Please, some advice on how to remove this handlebar so I can move onto the rest and pack this thing up for a trip?Removed the quill stem and compression bolt ready, but I don’t know what to do from here with the handles and brakes in the way. Removed the bolts on the right brake bar but no luck getting it off.Thanks for the reply in advance.
…just found out that you actually just need to take a hammer to the quill screw, nvm. Putting the brakes back on
Got a lovely old steel mtb frame, it's ruby red with black decals. The frame is mint.I have a tatty paor of forks and a stem that will be perfect for it that I'm going to paint, what colour would look nice on the front end?
>>2017656probably black is the only thing that would look ok, maybe blue usually i'd say fluro pink or fluro orange like how marin often did contrasting fork/stem but that would clash with your redpics
>>2017656I would go black on both to match the decals.If your components are silver that could work too.
>>2017658>>2017660cheers for the suggestions. group set is mid 90s XT, so a mix of black and silver.I've got these lovely turquoise/blue parts - seat post, bottle cage and Chris King hubs, I was thinking of white with the frame and forks, for red, white and blue?
>>2017117doesnt really apply here but ok
How do you get custom measurements for custom bikes? Is there a website or guide or something? I'm thinking for ordering one here from a well-known bike maker.
>>2017690The custom bike builder has you fill out information on what you like, how you ride, and importantly your measurements.Then you talk back and forth about those things until a conclusion is made.Well, that's what I heard.
>>2017632Bro how dumb are you? It's a stick going through a tube. There's only one way it's coming off, and that's sliding the bars through the quilt. That will entail removing the brakes and shifters from one end of the bars.
>>2017601>>2017607>>2017622no but most engineers tend to opt for standardized off the shelf parts because it greatly reduces cost of R&D and production so chances are were looking at a standard sealI have even hinted at the fact that a similar enough seal is a good enough sealIt's not too difficult to make an expedient seal for the low demands a BB has but I'd consider that a purely educational exercise>>2017598Sure its 17 by 22? You can always measure the axle, you should be able to find a very thin polished line cause by the seals contact. 17x22 is available here and there but kind of an oddball, usually if standard parts are oddballs its worth checking again. Picrel is a 17x22x5 and the fucker is almost 9 eurobux a pop because it's such a speciality item.t. enginerd
>>2016856>>2017046update on this one, the plug is fubar and needs to be replaced, only i can't find any info on whether i need one with a separately tightened top cap to preload the bearings as well or wether i can just get one that only expands without any pressure on the top cap. like the type in pic related with only one bolt, will that work fine on a carbon fork? pls help
>>2017708read his post, that's actually not what's going on.
My main bike right now is a canyon endurace with stack 568mm and reach 375mm and a 90mm stem. It works for me, I've got a lot of miles on it, but looking back, I could probably have gone for something with less reach. So I've been looking at china frames because worst case if I fuck something up it's not my main bike anyway. But I'm getting thrown off by the geometry here. You would think it would be higher stack for less reach, but it's the other way around. The road frames are even more aggressive.I'm not actually going to be doing much if any gravel riding, I just wanted something a little more relaxed. I know the endurace is supposed to be "endurance geo" but I was led to believe it was fairly aggressive as those things go, am I wrong about this? Should I just go for a smaller frame and boomer up the spacers?
Give me ONE reason I shouldn't convert my steel rigid 26 mtb into a drop bar gravel bike with friction shifters on the topsinb4 >muh heckin geometryMaybe I haven't ridden enough bikes but I've never understood how a different stem wouldn't easily fix this problem
>>2017841I think you should and then report back and make a thread about it
>>2017841You have no reason to get drop bars, and without them it’s fundamentally the same bike. So yes you should fix up your old bike
>>2017846What are you trying to say
Hve some spare tubeless sealant and a couple of inner tubes (with removable Presta core), can I use the sealant on the tubes or do I have to get "inner tube sealant" and how much?
>>2017839For me the most important fit criteria are>can the seatpost go far enough out, and fore+aft correct>can the stack go high enough> is reach somewhat close.Generally smol bikes have less stack so you might need a riser stem or to flip a - degree stem upside down.I only ride old school and don't know what modern aggressive vs slack geo is besides that there are trends, so you can find a "slack" race bike that is less extreme then an aggressive endurance bike, and vice versa.Just ride fast and have fun.>>2017841flat bars are nice for harder terrain, and bull horns give me enough hand positions.
>>2017853I've never tried bar ends but they don't seem great other than just being an alternate hand position. It's nice doing sprints while in the drops
>>2017858The bar ends are good for climbing too. I mean you can do it if you want, it just always seems like an expensive conversion for no gain(imo).
Are 1x drivetrains trendy because front derailleurs filter out scrubs?source: just put 1x on my bike because front deraileurlet
>>2017852You can use it. There's really right answer for how much to use, but my rule of thumb is 1oz in road tires, 2oz in mtb tires. I think most people use more. YMMV>>20178601x took over for MTBs because getting rid of the front derailer allows for more flexibility in frame design. The same advantage applies to gravel bikes: you can keep the chainstays shorter and fit wider tires at the same time if you don't have to worry about a front derailer's cage. Now that wide-range 1x drivetrains are fully developed, it makes sense in many cases to use them offroad as well.
>>2017860I don't know why it's popular besides that on mtb's it allows a dropper remote to mount easier on the left hand side, people don't ride their bikes to trials so you don't want close gears for the road part, and climbing is uncool for modern mtbers, so you don't need close gears again.For road it makes no sense due to the cross chaining when you are spinning up a hill or powering down a mountain.Good marketing thing and it makes a demand for more gears since the less total gears you have the more important each gear combo is.
>>2017861In addition to the clearance aspect, which really is the main reason 1x became so huge in the first place, you also can practically never drop a chain when using a narrow-wide chainring + chain, which will get misaligned if you derail the front chainring
>>2017865chain retention is not an advantage of 1x, that's why they have to have chain keepers and narrow wide rings and clutches on the rear mechfull sus mtb is really the only place that 1x is better than 2x or even 3x
>>2017802you don't need one, at all, to do up an ahead set but it makes life alot easier. One that provides no means to preload the bearings makes no sense.
>>2017867Narrowwide doesn’t work when you derail both the front and the rear, as I said. The spring tension is often lower on 2x rear derailleur a as well to account for the fact that there can be multiple amounts of chain slack for each parallelogram-aligned cog on the rear
>>2017865>narrow-wide chainring + chainWhat do you mean "+ chain"? Of course you can't drop a chain if you don't have a chain. But you also won't be going anywhere.Also, I've dropped the chain plenty on my narrow-wide setup. Especially with a worn chainring.
>was on the short cranks train like a decade early>shit's hard to find but most people just want to get rid of it so it's cheap>lately it became a hipster trend>now shit's hard to find and expensive because everything is boutique nowwhy does this keep happening to me
>>2017904Short cranks are only good for downhill off roading and manlets on tiny bikes.If you are one of those I feel for you, if not then you're just another hipster.
>>2017905Wrong, short cranks is a smaller circle that means spinning at higher rpms is easier and more rpms equals MO POWA BB (at the cost of low rpm punch). Adjusting crank lengths lets a rider shift the peak of their power curve higher or lower in the rpm range.
>>2017876>spring tension is often lower on 2x rear derailleur a as well to account for the fact that there can be multiple amounts of chain slack for each parallelogram-aligned cog on the rearWrong again, a 11-51 cassette has a 40T difference, whereas a 50-34 or 46-30 crank with an 11-34 cassette is a 39T difference. And that's the widest range you'll typically find on a road bike, often it's less than that. The spring tension is lower on road mechs because there's no reason for it to be higher. There's a front derailleur that works as a chain keeper and they aren't being ridden on rough terrain. A softer spring makes the drivetrain more efficient. A Deore mech (with or without a clutch) has a stiffer spring than Tiagra.
>>2017859A modern steel gravel bike is at least $1200 but a conversion is $200. Unless I am missing something, I don't see the difference between the two to justify getting a new bike besides 1.5" of wheel diameter
>>2017853>Just ride fast and have funThat's the idea, but I'm kind of done with the "just buy something and pray". How is it that the supposedly "less aggressive" bikes are MORE aggressive? Am I misunderstanding what is meant by "aggressive"? Because to me that means long reach and short stack. Other than the endurace vs the ultimate, it seems like going grabble means you want to ride around in a full aero tuck at all times which makes zero sense to me
>>2017939You're trying to read way too much into numbers. A bikes geometry is not fully determined by those two figures. You can neither truly anticipate how it rides by looking at reach and stack, theres too little info, neither can you by looking at a complete description if the geometry, there's too much info.Canyon Endurance R/S 0.66Canyon Grizl R/S 0.71Canyon Ultimate R/S 0.72Where's your problem? Seems 'logical'.
>>2017941I think you might be the one reading too much into things. Obviously, bike geometry is complicated but the subjective ride quality is a whole other discussion. I'm not asking about if it "confidently descends", or whether it wants to track center when I'm pedaling upright with no hands in a crosswind, or if it "feels goat-like while climbing" or any of that woo-woo "ride qualities" stuff. When people speak of an "aggressive geometry" unless I've just bee smoking crack my whole life, they aren't talking about the chainstay length or the fork rake, at least not directly. They are talking about the position of the body while riding.Let me try to put it as simply as I can: how much stack I should expect within my reach constraints, if I want to go less aggressive (more upright torso, greater angle between femur and spine). I want 375 or less reach. I could go maybe 10mm less. If you want to speak in terms of ratio that's fine too. Take the numbers you calculated for example. Theoretically, it should go from less to more aggressive as that number increases. Or to take the marketing literature, Grizl < Endurace < Ultimate. So why is the Grizl about as aggressive as the Ultimate? I left out the seat tube angle, but they are within half a degree. That translates to less than 5mm difference in reach at the seatpost. Much longer reach should be much higher stack. But it's the reverse. Add 20mm of reach and you subtract over 10mm of stack. What gives?
I just cannot seem to get my head around front derailleurs. I have two bikes, both have inactive fd's due to my incompetence.I have tried many time, occasionallky I seem to be able to set them up, but it seems to be more from luck than skill. but recently i can't do iyt.also the park tool vid on this subject is uniquely shit, as all their other vide help me.
>>2017953rj the bike guy
>>2017929If you really want road bars go for it. >>2017949Not him, but I don't work at canyon so I cannot explain their catalogue. > Much longer reach should be much higher stack. But it's the reverse. Add 20mm of reach and you subtract over 10mm of stack. What gives?racing geometry and what canyon thinks the rider wants/needs. I can't help you since I just adjust the cockpit on every bike I get to make it fit. Riser stem? you betcha. Long boi slammed? yup. Selling it since I fucked up and bought the wrong size? yup.Either way look at more bike brands to find the fit you want if canyon isn't doing it. >>2017904Look for mtb DH cranks, or old road cranks. I have seen both in 165.Oh, and just DIY if you want to learn and drill, tap and cut a crank down if you need a lot shorter. That's what people did BITD for really short cranks.>>2017953I set up the extreme ranges first. So lowest low gear, then hardest high gear via the limits and how far the brifter/shifter go. Then if the shifter/brifter isn't shit it has some trim options in the middle.Of course I eyeball the FD cage so it's not super angled out or in on band clamp variants.I am the opposite mostly. It just works for me, but I mostly ride pre 9 speed so use friction or easier FD's to setup.This probably won't help you, but if you take a break and come back sometimes the frustration lowers and it's easier.
>>2017959>>2017960fd tard here, cheers - will try RJ and it makes sense to set the outer limitations first
>>2017967I've been using friction doubles for most of my riding but when I bought my 90s mtb with an indexed triple, the guy gave me the original manuals for the FD and I followed the instructions to the letter. the technical writing was hard to parse but eventually I got to the end and it shifted perfectly so maybe the answer is to find the original manual. I know shimano has pdfs of most of their old models. hope that helps
>>2017205says here they are Tubeless Ready you just need valves and sealant https://www.wtb.com/products/stdecent tires to for a stock bike also this image is very funny
I just spent $1400 on a used bike from 2010. Should I kms?
>>2017975Okay, okay.What bike?If you desired it a lot and plan to ride it a ton it's fine. People spend tons of money on bikes they never ride. It's how I get great deals.
>>20179768.5 kg 26" hardtail in a barely ridden conditioni've a soft spot for 26ers
>>2017977We talking fox fork, mavic rims, xt/xtr hubs+groupsets or xx/xo sram stuff?Maybe reynolds 853 steel?Would be a lot either way, but I could see someone paying that.Shit my freeride hardtail (26) I built up in 2014/2015 was around 2-3k.
i have a shitty commuter with a 3sp igh. dunno what the crank is but its one piece. i'd like the gearing to be a little lower, could i replace the crank to do that?
>>2017953Their video on FD is so garbage I gave up and went 1x
>>2017205>>2017973Be aware that some brands (seems to be especially WTB) will produce tires that aren't available aftermarket. So you often see tire models that are normally tubeless ready but aren't when they come on a new bike.
>>2017986You could. Or you could put a larger cog on the hub.
>>2017986one piece crank doesn't necessarily mean the gear doesn't come off. just that the cranks are one S shaped part that goes all the way through the BB.but yeah if your chainring is a fixed part of the crank that fucking sucks.there should be some other crank you can put on but sounds like something old, possibly with weird standards for threading or etc . if it's no longer made you'd have to find a used one.otoh, there might be plenty of them on Amazon or w/e.anons idea of getting a bigger rear cog may be easier if your crank is hard to find
>>2017960I brought up the grizl because it seemed more like an apples to apples comparison to my canyon, I was really looking at the winspace g2 >>2017839, but after doing some youtube binging it looks as though I am not being crazy, it is considered aggressive and twitchy by gravel bike standards. Too bad because I the package frame+wheels deal looked really good
>>2018003its actually a trike. it runs fine so i don't want to mess with it to much nor change the chainline. i got 2 chains, one from the crank to the hub, then another that does the hub to the wheel (1 tire fire, no lsd or posi).since it rides fine as-is i want to focus on the least amount of changes, so i think thats the crank and amount of teeth it has in it? i'm not unwilling to do other work, i actually have access to every tool i might need, i just dont want to start fucking with the rear of something when all i need is the front
>>2017904So your 10 year old cranks must just be completely unusable now right? Maybe even scratched!BSA is alive and well you know
>>2017928Exactly, the derailleur has to accommodate a 39-link variation in THE SAME COG. They have to design around those fools buying it
>>2017985It’s 18lbs it’s either the best XC tech that 2014 had to offer on a hardtail, or it’s actually a piece of garbage; eg singlespeed-ed
>>2018004The G2 is such a weird looking bike I wish they'd make a normal one like the carbona 696
>>2018013no it doesn't retard39T is the total difference of the cassette and the chainrings both. 34-11=23 and 50-34=16. 23+16=39. 23T is the max difference on either chainring. One could technically use a short cage rear mech with 23T takeup with this setup and get the full range of the cassette on either ring but it would be wildly inconvenient.Are all 1xfags as fucking stupid as you?
>>2018024In EITHER ring, you said it yourself. It doesn’t accommodate the full range of the drivetrain, and that needs to be done before selling on the market. You are aware that 1x and 2x rear derailleurs are actually built differently right? Specifically because of what I said, on 2x the cage position and the parallelogram position are separated to accommodate various amounts of chain slack. On 1x, each cogs has ONE slack chain length, ONE rear cage position, and the parallelogram alignment and cage position can be linked together because of this
>>2018026100% convinced i'm talking to an LLM right now
>>2018028You’re gonna have one hell of a future lmao
what's the best way to to transport shit on a rear rack? Been using 2 bungee cords to tie my backpack, but it's always annoying to put them on/off. No i won't buy a pannier bag
>>2018031pannier bag
>>2018031zip tie a basket on the rack get larger size zip ties and cinch them tight by pulling on the tie with pliers and pushing on the head with a screwdriver.
>>2018031try adjustable straps/buckles from military surplus stores etc. they're a bit better.https://www.amazon.com/Ayaport-Lashing-Buckles-Adjustable-Packing/dp/B09DCB6QC7/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.frhanqnc4i7GVyE6fH-x3T9J93rZO4j1AYnF3n0BRHFL1ojF5LfrC5sxLZNK1MmHJJ5Eaz7SnGXt0xeMaiq9xVfgxGh0qljN2QPBC4P3e0vyBs1669gigpjt87hhr_iYuI3A3t5ILFrSe2jd_AFGBPawvwHTb4WqCT6pziOHkco4r39FYiQyo2ddN8UrYBSIlOa2hPfll7A_fCh14XMQ4Q.mdYYnhm-7Zd89IQIz7wAw2Ly2vn0hQ0zkrhN99PzPYc&dib_tag=se&keywords=military+straps&qid=1726011000&sr=8-14
>>2018031this style of bungey is the bestprobably my no 1 piece of touring kit
Gonna do a resto-mod of my old steel road bike. It has sentimental value, yes I know it's a fool's errand. Also downtube shifting in commuter traffic is not fun.Should I go parts hunting on eBay for NOS complete or near-complete groupsets, or piece something together with different stuff (assuming correct compatibility)?
What factors are most important for min-maxing comfort and speed on a road bike? Tire width, 650b vs 700c, frame material, fork material, etc.?My only road bike was a 23c aluminum bike so pretty jarring but I wonder if 30c+ would have made it comfy I did enjoy how light and fast it was
>>2018041Tires, then after a BIG power gap, fork material, then a slight power gap, then handlebar/seatpost, then everything else, and THEN frame material
>>2018041I own a cannondale synapse, a famously compliant and comfort-focused bike with 25mm tires and tons of expensive shaped carbon throughout itMy cheap steel tank gravel bike that’s basically meant for BMX (the spiritual opposite of a flexy bike) is way more comfortable and steady than the synapse when using 32mm tiresThinner tires accelerate a little faster (just because of weight?) but once at speed, they’re just not big enough to absorb all the little bumps of a 2024 roadway at full speed anymore, and you will lose momentum because of it. Those supple-obsessed freaks are right (up to about 32mm tires and on normal american roads)
>>2018042Is tire width comfort proportional to wheel size? For example, would a 46mm tire on a 650b be more comfortable than a 35mm tire on a 700c because it has more air volume or would the 700c be more comfortable in this case because of better rollover?
>>2018041>min-maxing comfort and speed'comfort' is a relatively meaningless termA 'comfortable' saddle for a casual with a soft bottom is going to be heavily padded, and that padding will compress into your genitals and cause pain over distance. It is 'comfortable' to have a lower seat to allow easy dismounts, but that will cause knee pain over distanceA 'comfortable' cruiser position with super high/close bars will cause you back pain if you try riding hard and throwing your upper body with your shoulders rolled backwards and no arch in your backPeople will go for a gravel disc bike to fit wider tires for 'comfort' and end up with a super stiff aluminium forkAnd all the ways you can make a bike 'comfortable' will usually be making it heavier/ slower, and then the bike is harder to ride which makes you uncomfortableComfort is usually diametrically opposed to speed, so how the fuck can you minmax two opposing values?
>>2018043imo the type of tire is more significant than the tire widthI had some 32mm marathon plus, which are super stiff tank tires, and a fair comparison swapping directly on the same bike, they were sigifnicantly less comfortable than nice supple 25mm road tires.
>>2018046True, good puncture protection will kill any tire in existence
>>2018039It really depends man. Post it. >downtube shifting in traffic is not fundisagree, you got friction shifters? Just going to 7 spd indexing with a tricolour group or something might be a nice enough change. Also usually i'd plan a project around the wheels i have so the first step imo would be gauging the full condition of your wheels (bearings, brake track) and then seeing what gearing can even work with them. Otherwise i'd suggest you try to find a 10-20yo donor bike that's rough in the right ways to steal a 9/10 speed shiny silver shimano groupset and some wheels from. Stripping bikes is usually the cheapest way to buy parts. Also big question, does it actually fit you and do you actually like the paint. Custom project on a sentimental bike absolutely makes sense but not if it's some bike that you've been adapting to fit.
>>2018045I hate getting my ass reamed by potholes. I'm not trying to win any races but like going fast. What characteristics make the biggest difference for a bike to be comfortable while still maintaining the as much speed as possible?Is the weight gain of a steel frame worth the increased shock absorption over an aluminum frame?Is the increased comfort from the width of 650b worth the decrease in speed compared to 700c?Does a wider tire compensate for an aluminum fork?etc. etc.
>>2018044That’s tough to say, you get more tire deformation with bigger width tires, but you don’t need more tire deformation if you have better rollover. Personally I like the bigger wheelsize that fits, but I’ve never been in a situation where I have significantly more clearance in 650B than in 700C (as in, I don’t buy bicycles with puny tire clearance, the aero/weight savings from a tiny-clearance bike is practically nothing compared to the ability to run 32). Also I keep mentioning 32mm because that’s the max size that true road racing tires (comfortable and fast, but easily punctured) come in. Like the other guy said, there’s a big difference between a heavy puncture protection tire and a delicate racing tire>>2018045Comfort from bumps and speed are very much linked together, it’s the entire basis of compliance/flex. You want your bike to be able to flex over a pebble or else that pebble will bump your fatass torso upwards instead, ruining your momentumGeometry is a different type of comfort and yeah I do agree “comfort” is very ambiguously used in the bike world
>>2018031for tomorrow? backpackfor the future? look at your bike and see what it can hold like rear basket, panniers, front basket etc. there is a lot of amazon options that aren't badi sometimes borrow my friends bike to run to the store and it has a rear rack with an old milk crate strapped to it, its the best beer-getter ever
>>2018041>min-maxing comfort and speed on a road bikeAlright, you're asking for quite a lot here because min-maxing comfort and speed is the whole point of competitive cycling. The straight forward answer is so arbritary, it honestly solves nothing unless you already know what you're doing. So here's the answer, to min-max speed, you have to be comfortable, to be comfortable, you have to be uncomfortable. What do I mean exactly? The pursuit of speed is an ongoing effort that never ends because your body changes, the goal gets higher, and your will is continuously tested. Anyways, I digress, now onto the real answers. To objectively be comfortable at speed, it will require the ideal combination of geometry, fit, fitness, gearing, and loadout, all of which will change over time as your fitness and flexibility and goals change.Now, everyone has different priorities at min-maxing comfort at speed because each human body is unique, the ideal bike would be custom made with the considerations of each of our body size ratios, fitness, and flexibility, but we live in a world of mass produced goods until you hit a certain level. With that said, I will now list my personal ranking of factors that are most important at producing speed with comfort from most to least important>fitness>diet>flexibility>geometry>bike fit>aero>gear ratio>crank length>wheel weight>tire compound>tire width>low friction bearings>bike weight>bike materialNow, a lot people focus so hard on the bike that they forget about the most important part of cycling, the engine. Notice how my first 3 points were about the rider, not the bike. There is no shortcut to being FAST, train hard, eat well, and rest right.
>>2018054The low friction bearings part exposed you
>>2018055I'm not the squirrel engineer, I promise, I roll on GXP bearings
>>2018055what the fuck is a low friction bearing? all bearings are meant to be as least friction as possiblet. just a commute idiot
>>2018057I'm the original poster of >>2018054What I mean by "low friction bearing" is just a bearing that is properly maintained and greased, that's it. Not some special space age ceramic bearing, while nice, doesn't reduce the coefficient of friction by any meaningful difference in real world application especially in the context of bicycles, I hands on tried ceramic bearings only to realize they don't survive the rigors of real world riding for diminishing returns. I only mentioned it in my list because so many riders have neglected bearings, a simple greasing and proper torquing of the lock nuts does wonders for speed that I had to include it in my checklist of min-maxing speed and comfort.
>>2018054>>2018058I also just realized I forgot the importance of tire pressure. I feel it should be slotted with tire compound and tire width. Tire pressure is a very subtle subject that requires intimate experience with wet weight and axle load.
>>20180491st tires. A nice 28mm to 35mm tire will be fast, comfortable, and expensive.2nd, contact points. A flexy seatpost, saddle, stem, and bars helps with this. If you weigh a decent amount a 27.2 carbon seatpost can flex quite a bit, let alone suspension variants of the seatpost or stem.3rd, frame design+material. It's not just steel=comfier then aluminum. It's high quality road bike tubing with good geometry+frame sizing is more comfortable then some fuckhueg aluminum tube optimized for stiffness and lightweight. Carbon can be comfy too, but again it can be hard to tell. This includes fork design too. You can have comfy carbon forks and stiff ones. Same with steel. Generally it's safe to just have a bigger tire, since that will make any frame more comfy. One example is a rigid 26in mtb. All of them have strong, steel tubes that are overbuilt in smol frame sizes that should be stiff. And they are, however if you run a 1.5-2.0(37mm-50mm) tire then the bike frame stiffness doesn't hurt comfort since the tire absorbs everything.IMO only way to find out if you like frames is to try them, understand the geo and implications and then try more frames to learn.>>2018054A good point also is that the more power you make and the fitter you are the more you can cope with an "uncomfortable" bike IME. If a rider is lighter they have less weight on the saddle, and the power they put through the pedals helps hold them up more.
>>2018058>I hands on tried ceramic bearings only to realize they don't survive the rigors of real world riding for diminishing returnscan you expand on this? i'm used to bearings in a bike and car sense. they're all the same. did you get special bearings or so?
>>2018060>A good point also is that the more power you make and the fitter you are the more you can cope with an "uncomfortable" bike IME.True, which is why I ranked flexibility as an important factor. Riding an "uncomfortable" bike allows a person to build flexibility making that uncomfortable bike comfortable. That is, as long as the fit is proper, bad fit brings bad comfort which leads to chronic injury.>If a rider is lighter they have less weight on the saddle, and the power they put through the pedals helps hold them up more.As a lighter rider myself, I'd like to also add, more longevity from parts and tires.>>2018061So in my own pursuit of min-maxing speed with a curious mind, I had to try special ceramic bearings. The premise behind ceramic bearings is that they're tougher, rounder, and the material itself has a lower coefficient of friction which theoretically means less power wasted to friction (heat). I replaced my bb and wheel bearings with fully ceramic bearings. Within about 1/10th the mileage of steel bearings, the bb developed play and needed to be replaced, soon enough the wheel bearings went too. The problem with ceramic bearings is that their toughness is a flaw because that high toughness makes the material brittle so they don't survive as long as steel bearings in real world conditions where there's potholes and deformations on the road.
>>2018063at least you tried, thats so far further than most people>The premise behind ceramic bearings is that they're tougher, rounder, and the material itself has a lower coefficient of frictioni tried myself, failed. welcome to the club kek
>>2018057>all bearings are meant to be as least friction as possiblethe lowest friction bearing would have no seals or grease you have to make allowances for longevity
>>2018047>>2018045>>2018047have you guys actually tried different tires or are you just getting memed by hipsters? it doesn't matter how many teepee eyes your tire has, if you're on a 32mm at 50psi it's going to be more comfortable than a 23mm at 120psi, anyone who tries to tell you otherwise is just trying to sound like their idea of a bike expert (a dirty hipster whose "expertise" consists of binge watching advertainment content)
Does anybody tried Pikaboos2? Are there any better alternatives?
Single front rack 32T, rear rack 34T - 14T - does it have a sense?
>>2018078Have you ever tried a marathon plus bro, the puncture protection overwhelms and basically negates over 10mm of tire width imo, a 25 racing tire will still be more comfortable than even a 30 marathon plus
>>2018093Sorry, I meant durano plus, that’s the specific tire that hurt me
>>2018091Not when you can get a complete 1x12 11-50 setup with BB and cranks for like $200But sure, what you have will still pedal, I’m sure you’re on 26” wheels so your gearing can probably still climb alright with that 32t chainring even though your biggest rear cog is just 34
saturday was last hot day here in germany, whopin 32C, but autumn is starting to go hard this year and i want to FINALLY prepare my feet for winter and buy some winter shoos, i drove 3 winters with a "summer" mtb shoes paired with double, thick socks for insulation, but i still got cold feets, i have had it with this motherfucking cold feets this year, i want to buy some decent winter MTB's, that gonna let me survive under -4 to -12, i thought about Northwave Celsius XC Gtx, paired with rain shoe covers for extra insulation, cause last year it somehow worked out, but i dont want to niggerrig it everyday just to survive. are there any other better winter mtb shoes ? or are those decent looking ?
AM i the only one who just rides foir the fun of it, i have an old rigid atb with slicks, i keep it well maintained, give a good service every few months, only ever needed to change cables and brake pads plus the middle chainring, thing cost me £40 and has never let me down in more than 20 years.IDGAF how fast I am, or how aero the bike is, i never wore lycra or a helmet, i just go where i want when i want and love every minute of it.some of you need to just cut the bullshit and go back to basics, stop consooming, stop obsessing about watts, just fucking ride
>>2018112sneedthe
are grx front derailleurs somewhat more resistant to dirt compared to road ones? my FD-R7000 often gets really fucking dirty during wet autumn rides. dirty to the point where I can't shift it, because sand/water/leaf particles/whatever just get in it. And I'm not even offroading, so I guess it's way worse on gravel.or is my lack of luck just a combination of somewhat fast speed of 30-40km/h and lack of mudguards?
>>2018112You guys are so obsessed with other people it never fails to amuse meI have 6 bikes, many budgets, zero financial return from any of them. I don’t look at other people when I ride, git gud
>>2018078Go ride a stiff marathon or gatorskin hardshell and compare it to a cheap regular road tire in the same size.Also, if you can cope with a 32mm tire at 50 psi it's either super stiff tire or you don't weigh much and in that case can run a 23 at say 100, 90, or 80psi.This is why people prefer tubeless or tubulars since you get more air in the tire per size of tire, thus it's more comfy. Hard commuter tires are just extremes that suck to ride, and at that point going for a bigger lightweight tire is better unless the frame can't handle it.>>2018091my dh enduro bike runs a 32 11-48 and it's barely enough since the bike weighs 40+lbs. Gearing is all about your power, the hills, weight, and your wheel size/diameter.>>2018112Not my problem.
Is it actually viable to have 2 wheel sets for a disc brake bike? Like a 27.5 with mtb tires and 29er lightweight with grabble tires? Do you need to get the same hubs for it to work? Do the disc brakes rub? My bike is basically a rigid MTB for context so the 700c/29er rims would be a big change, I know normally people go from 700c > 650b as an "adventure" wheelset. Basically my use case is "ripping on single track" then "bike 50 miles over 3 days on mostly road and easy gravel" Switching tires isn't an option
>>2018133Just get gravel tiresswitching between wheels sizes is pointlessyou'll be running the same overall diameter because of the clearance constraints on the larger wheel Something like gone is plenty fast on the road For the same price as new wheels you could probably find a used road bike
>>2018133>I don’t wanna switch tires so I’m gonna spend $500+ on a second wheelset that’s either better or worse than the original to use both, but I’ll actually only ever want to use the better ones, to the point where I just accept 20-minute tire changes and a pair of wheels sits in the closet foreverIt’s a tale as old as time, you might somehow make it work, you actually might use them both thoroughly, but I really doubt it
>>2018133People don’t “go from 700c to 650b” they go from narrower tires to wider tires, and maybe they’re forced to change to 650b in order to do it. You need to check you max tire clearance in both 700c and 650b before you can even consider if this makes any sense
Race King Shieldwall for $25/piece or Race King Protection for $70/piece
>>2018133Gravel tires at 700x35-40+ size.More fun on easy gravel and optimal for simple singletrack.While still being a good training tool for road.If you had some just road rides I would get a used rim brake bike for 100usd or less, but I have a great used market and I have the tools+knowhow to repair.However since your "road" is road+gravel you will enjoy the gravel tires+current bike more.
>>2018139Can't you read the charts?>shieldwall is just a cheaper, slower tire with slightly better wet gripWhat are your needs/preferences?I know I could cope with the cheap tire, but I don't know if you can.Also, due to my weight I would run 35-45 psi depending on terrain, and it seems the cheaper tire has a closer RR the higher psi you run.So expensive tire for low psi grip, cheap tire for durability/higher psi DJ/mixed use case.
>>2018141>I don't know if you canI can't but I also can't justify spending 150 dollars on a pair of tyres
>>2018140If he’s really doing consecutive days of mainly road riding, he will absolutely appreciate the better performance of a true <35mm slick road tire on the road (and they manage in light gravel, briefly, in a straight line). Same with singletrack, if he’s actually pushing it in the corners and slamming through rocks, a 35-40mm gravel tire just won’t keep up with traction/durability. A compromise gravel tire will certainly work, I use a gravel rear tire and a mtb front tire on my extreme-gravel bike and it’s alright, but two pairs of tires really is the play here imo. He just shouldn’t be spending hundreds of dollars on a wheelset when the answer is 20-minute tire changes, I’ve swapped tires before bed, I’ve swapped them on my lunch break, it’s not THAT big of a hassle
>>2018124>you're not obese, so I want you to have a miserable ride because "you might as well"ok thanks for your advice
>>2018112>just ride bro don't obsess about your bikesays the guy with a highly desirable trendy classic bike
>>2018049>I hate getting my ass reamed by potholesThis is a skill issue. Road bikes are meant to actually be ridden. Your legs are your suspension. You should have most/all of your weight on the pedals and post up over rough ground, so your ass is not able to even be reamed. It takes strength and muscle memory to do this well. Just cruising around sitting on the seat is where noobs fuck up.
>>2018049>What characteristics make the biggest difference for a bike to be comfortable while still maintaining the as much speed as possible?you're asking about balanced statsit's the opposite of minmaxing
>>2018112Uhm sir you don’t seem to have purchased the berry-end cable caps that are mandatory on any self respecting ATB(tm)
>>2018112this is the guy calling you a hipstera hipster
>>2018159Bike saddles should be aftermarket-only desu
>>2018166they're useful for stability, that doesn't mean you need weight on them also if you don't have your weight on the pedals, it's much easier to crash your bike if you hit an unexpected bump
>>2018133Usually wheel swaps will require tuning your brakes AND gears. I've actually never met anyone who does the wheel or even tire swap thing with any regularity despite many dreams of it. Even swapping pedals over is too annoying. Get 2 bikes.
>>2018117>dirty to the point where I can't shift it... really? You sure the pivot is actually jamming, ie, you can't even move the derailer by hand? Because that is unusual. Shimano road or mtb mechs ime rarely if ever seize up even covered in mud. I'd say it's much more likely your cable is bad then again if you've fixed it be freeing the mech then it's that... Wierd
>>2018078>have you guys actually tried different tires or are you just getting memed by hipsters?i already said that i directly swapped from 32 marathon plus to 25 gp4s the latter rode better. >it doesn't matter how many teepee eyes your tire has, if you're on a 32mm at 50psi it's going to be more comfortable than a [25mm] at [100psi]wrong >a dirty hipster whose "expertise" consists of binge watching advertainment contentno cunt, i tried it, experience is experiencing italso have ridden out 15+ sets of new tires by this point and many more used ones.
>>2018164heh>>2018148I don't even know what your problem is, but if you can't stand up hills in a 32-34 then go get different gearing. Sunrace sells a 11-42 and 11-46 in 10 speed. >>2018145>If he’s really doing consecutive days of mainly road riding, he will absolutely appreciate the better performance of a true <35mm slick road tire on the roadOther people on the internet say they can't tell, so I presume I am the weird one who can.I don't know if he is "pushing" it in the corners and "slamming through rocks" Not sure I would slam through rocks on a gravel bike, but maybe the new ones are pretty strong.It's annoying swapping tires every week, but yeah it's not THAT big a deal. Unless it's tubeless, in which case I ain't doing it.
>>2018171ok that's nice, I don't know what any of that has to do with what I said, but I'll remember to throw out my modern bike and get 19mm tubulars and some weird ass gearing because you hate nice things
>>2018166>Bike saddles should be aftermarket-only desuthe era when non-shit bike saddles were aftermarket only was a living hell with no good bike saddles available on the aftermarket.
Should I sell all my bikes and just get a gravel bike?
>>2018175According to internet posts you should just get an e-bike, get fat, and ride the bike trails at 25+mph.
>>2018172pure schizo posting
>>2018175>Should I sell all my bikesNo> get a gravel bike?YesGravelbike is a great all-rounder, but I hold the opinion that one should own more than one bike.
I want to buy a new bike. Is it bad to get a classic RB? Are they too much of a hassle when it comes to upkeep and parts? Friction shifting, threaded fork and rear hub and all that. I've been riding for a couple of months now and I want to try something new with a RB
>>2018191It's fine. If you can post on the internet you can watch rj the bike guy or park tool videos to learn how to refresh the vintage bike you get.Best way to tell if it's a nice bike is forged drop outs, down tube shifters not stem shifters, and higher end component groups.Do some research on bikeforums.net if you find a bike that looks like the right size for you. Also, you can generally fit 2-4 sizes depending on how flexible/young you are. For instance I can fit anything from a 58cm to a 63.5cm frame with a normal stem. Smaller then that and I need a taller stem, and probably a taller seatpost then what was common BITD.
>>2018079>Pikaboos2I mean LIVALL PikaBoost 2I live in the mountain area that's why I think it might be useful. Also its pretty cheap compared to e-bikes.
>>2018032>>2018036>>2018037>>2018038>>2018052what about transporting my laptop?
>>2018195definitely your padded backpack inside a pannier bag
>>2018191>classic RB... a bridgestone?
>>2018205>posts an MByou had one job
>>2018134This is wrong for my bike, though. I can go 2.2 with 700c wheels, 27.5 max is 2.4. 700c wheels are still bigger I believe >>2018136Yea yea though I do feel like my use case for this bike is actually 2 extremes >>2018137Trust me buddy lol I know it'll work in theory, it's a Poseidon redwood >>2018140I've got a dedicated roadie. And no way in hell am I riding 40mm gravel tires down the shit I ride. It's rough enough without suspension lol>>2018145You're not wrong but I wanna ride tubeless >>2018168Heard>>2018171I am indeed fucking myself up on rocks and roots and need my 2.4 MTB tires.I think what I'm gonna do is just live with some fat and supple gravel tires. My bike is already a cope on the single track, but with big ass tires I can at least squish my way through. Then puff up the tires for bike packing shit. If I do a genuine road tour I'll just rig up my road bike Ty niggers picrel is bike
>>2018012have you considered that someone might want to own more than one bike?
>>2018205coincidentally I've been eyeing a bridgestone for $200.>>2018192Cool, I'll check out that forum.
i've only been cleaning my bike by using baby wipes and wet paper towels. i never ride in rain or wet conditions. does anyone else do this as well?also i only drip wax my chain with silca wax, usually just wipe it down with a ragged cloth and reapply the drip wax every 400kms. are you meant to be periodically cleaning the chain/cassette off or something?
>>2018215With wax if it stays clean it's fine. With oil I occasionally clean the cassette, chainrings, and wipe down the chain. Of course lubing every 100-200 miles too.For cleaning I use some water or light degreaser and a microfiber towel.
>>2018215I have a bike specifically set up for wet weather, it's an aluminum frame, has fenders fitted and I keep it in the dry when not in use. I clean it thoroughly and service it regularly, paying close attention to the bearings, which I degrease, dry and repack with fresh grease twice a year.My other bikes I wash less often as they are always ridden in the dry and only get a bit dusty, I too wipe these down with baby wipes after removing surface dust with a soft brush. I service them once a year.
>>2018215what's the deal with the drip wax from silca, if you're waxing your chains anyway doesn't that defeat the purpose?
>>2018188Why?
I'm 5'9'' and ride with 180mm cranks. To be fair, my bike is a 90s 26'' mtb converted to 700c, so the bb is very high off the ground. A related quirk of this type of bike is the saddle height, which means I have to stand over the top tube when stationary. I find the longer cranks make riding the bike much easier and more comfortable, I tried 170s and 175s but went back to 180s.Any thoughts on this set up?
>>2018226it's based on your leg length, knee health, and strength. If your body is in good shape and it doesn't hurt you it's fine. My mom is 5ft and used to run 170 and 175mm cranks in the 80's and 90's fine.I prefer 175 cranks on mtb's for hills, but use generally whatever cranks I have lying around which is 170mm for road bikes.I just want to try a 180 since that's what indurain used and he was cool.
Reject bikeslop. Return to tubes and mechanical brakes
>>2018226Makes sense for more leg extension. Wouldn't the only advantage of short cranks be for ground clearance which only matters for offroad?
>>2018226if it feels alright to you, then it's fine. Realize that shorter cranks would mean the saddle would have to be set even higher exascerbating the need to stand when stationary. Longer cranks have more leverage at the crank for easier pedaling but the crank draws a larger circle which wastes energy (more movement wasted on leg movement instead of forward movement) and the larger circle means lower maximum rpm (biomechanical limit)>>2018230>Wouldn't the only advantage of short cranks be for ground clearance which only matters for offroad?>it's the anon who doesn't understand physics again
>>2018215i just hose mine off and leave it in the sun to dry if im feeling fancy ill wipe the chain with gt85
>>2018232Explain then
>>2018235>>2017927
>>2018240We're talking millimeters here it really doesn't have that big of an effect you weenie go ride bikes more instead of wasting time autistically overanalyzing everything
>>2018091Definately has no purpose. When you pedal it goes sideways. 0/6 would again. Grandpa went fishing.
>>2018230longer cranks bother some people's knees (or backs/hips/saddles, if they're reaching at the bottom of the pedal stroke or pushed over at the top). some tt/tri guys find that they can get lower and more aero with shorter cranks.john cobb used to say that a lot of people could push a bigger gear with shorter cranks because the entire pedal stroke could take place within a stronger ROM--think quarter squat vs full squat. I haven't noticed this myself, but I haven't tested it rigorously either, and it's an interesting idea.>>2018227you realize indurain was also like 6'6". are you going to try a 110cm saddle to bb as well?
>>2018245Internet says indurain is 6'1 and I have long legs for my height+fit frames he does. It's only 5mm longer then 175's which I grew up on anyways.I tend to get slight knee pain if I push a hard gear with 165mm cranks, but I don't ride cranks that short that often. Generally I just spin a little quicker, like 10-15rpm.
>>2018246>Internet says indurain is 6'1well fuck me, I was completely wrong. I wonder why "big mig" etc then. anyway, this all sounds reasonable enough. let us know how you get on.
Dead Lezyne Strip rear 150 anon >>2014713 glad to report back the 801660 3.7v 800mah works and fits wonders. It came with three wires though, the third being a "NTC thermistor" from a quick search. I wasn't sure if i could just cut the white thermistor cable so ended replacing the pcb with the OG pcb from the dead battery.
>>2018256Charged it outside in case of funny combustion, charged till full indicator light up.Ready to turn the 150 lumens daylight mode at night on slow commuters. Get fast or get blind.
Switched to a 28" bike (1.6" tires) after a 26" (2" tires) one and it's very noticeably harder to pedal.Is this normal or is there something wrong with the bike?
>>2018260Are your tires inflated properly?? A tire that much smaller would need a significantly higher pressure than the 2.2Are your tires similar? Like on the 1.6 are you running heavy puncture proof tires? Is this the same bike even? Are your brakes rubbing?
>>2018263Different bikes.Tires (Maxxis Overdrive II) inflated to the maximum written on them.>Are your brakes rubbing?Just spun the wheels and the back one is spinning freely and stopping slowly. The front one seems to be as well, but there's a faint periodic sound that does seem like it's rubbing.Is there a quick fix or do I need to bring it back to the store?
think you can trust chinks to sell nice ball bearings?
>>2018269Trust? No.They might me be nice, but you can't trust them to be.
>>2018270all the webstores selling graded stainless bearings are in usa are there any in eu
Talk me out of buying the Specialized roll 3.0 for my postpartum wife. If you do talk me out of it, give me a better bike to buy in the category.
>>2018272Low entry, of course
>>2018272I think they're cool. I was working at a shop that carried Specialized when they came out and we all thought they were goofy, but they turned out to be really popular. They're a very upright bike.
>>2018194Back in the like, 50’s, they sold basically a small gas engine version of this and it was very popular. I would expect it to work well on roadways but that’s just too much weight flapping off your seatpost to go bounce around singletrack with
>>2018211I did but then this guy >>2018112 put me in my place
>>2018241We're talking a size difference between 1-3cm in total crank circle diameter which corresponds to about a difference of 5-10% in torque and power curve shift which I think is significant enough to care for the obsessive min-maxer
>>2018232Remember bipedal motion does not operate in RPM, we aren’t built for climbing stair steps, we work on leg strokes, and long cranks capture more of that motion
>>2018269>>2018271how many do you need?Look up manufacturers near you. Even if it's like a factory or something, go in and be friendly to the person at the front desk or something and ask them for some. Chances are they're making lots of crazy industrial bearings and stuff and sparing a few 1/4" bearing balls would be nothing to them.
>>2018281i just bought some shimano bearings for a dura-ace hub
>>2018271Dunno. SKF, one of the most respected bearing makers in the world, is european, so I imagine there should be some european outlets.
>>2018285aw hell yeah
>>2018275Thank you very much friend
>>2018175>Should I sell all my bikesnot if you have the space for them, that's just a waste>and just get a gravel bike?gravel bikes are decent all-rounders, but it really depends on what you want out of a bike. i personally only own a road bike, but that's because i like to go fast and live in a pod apartment
>>2018269>think you can trust chinks to sell nice ball bearings?Nice enough, yes, but g100 isn't nice ball bearings. I've bought a few different packs of chink balls and never had any issues with them. Considering the minor price difference and the chance what you get is worse than what they say, i don't really see any reason not to go for g25 though, if you're repacking nice hubs. G25 is supposedly record/ DA level. I'd be pretty curious to know whether chink25 is worse than wheels mfg or campy/shimano oem or other 'quality' balls. It would be pretty easy to test, you'd just have to try packing a few different hubs and see how long they spin for.
>>2018281i see no reason to attempt to grovel off an industrial teat when simply buying specifically what you need online is very cheap also the few times i've tried to buy loose ball bearings from industrial shops they've actually quoted expensive prices.
>>2018269Ball bearings are cheap why risk it
>>2018272I test rode one it's a comfy cruiser very stable
>>2018265You need more help than I can provide bro.
Is this unsafe? Being my first MTB I didn’t realise how big 2” tyres were. Haven’t measured the internal diameter but the outer of the rims are 28mm. The size looks a bit stupid so I’m considering going down to 1.5” anyway but I wanted to check.
>>2018341Lmao yea you're fine bud. They used to ride 17mm internal width rims
>>2018343Thanks - I’m going off experience with 13mm road wheels where you can go up to 28mm but 23mm is probably the most optimal. I guess you’re dealing with 110 psi.
>>2018341I don't see a problem here.
Help me decide.New frame (pic)>Brazed seatpost collar>Internal brake cable>gear cables are external thoOld version>regular seatpost clamp>All cables are external
>>2018369i like the curved fork blades, the color, and the seatpost binder on the new model.
I recently got new bullhorns for my single speed, but I didn't realize they're really designed for fixed gear bikes and so the curve of the bullhorn doesn't allow for my tektro levers to seat all the way into the ends of the bars. Are there any brands of bar end brake levers in which the expansion ring thing is shorter and might fit better? I got them on the bars but they're not completely flush with the and of the bars so it's mostly an aesthetic thing, they're tightened down and feel secure.
>>2018384No idea. I have some ancient bullhorns(cinelli tempo's) on a bike and stuck the aero brakes at the curve towards the front. My hands are there mostly when I am descending or group riding for a semi-aero position so I like it there.
>>2018369Internal brake cable is so pointless but also so damn sexy for some reason. It's a stupid little thing but it makes handling the bike a lot easier and I think it looks smart.I vote new, but definitely not in that foul paint scheme.
>>2018384What do you mean when you say "they're not completely flush" Is it like the diameter of part of the brake that sticks out is thicker than the diameter of bar? If so, it'll look level when you bartape it.lol look at this monster cockpit I found googling
>>2018392How do you like the technium? I have a cheaper one nearby and they are kinda neat with the weird aluminum+steel construction.
>>2016856I'm shopping for a cargo bike in the US. Which brands should I look at first?
>>2016856I replaced the chain on my mountain bike and now it keeps on skipping when I ride it. I adjusted to derailer and all the gears shift and the chain is the right size. How to I fix this?
>>2016856Test
>>2018397sounds like your gear teeth are worn out
>>2018397I bet your cassette is too worn. The reason it's recommended to change your chain at .5 or .75%(for derailleur bikes) is to not do too much wear on the cassette+chainrings. When you go past that wear rate your cassettes wear fast, and your chainrings do to.Try different cogs on your cassette, and I bet one or two will skip less or won't skip. While the main cogs you use will skip all day.>>2018398I think you failed.
>>2018394It's like this. The quill stem kind of expanding barrel is too long and it hits the outside of the bullhorn curve preventing it from going all the way in. It's like 90% of the way in and feels secure so I just wrapped over it otherwise I'd take a picture.
>>2018402
>>2018401But the old one didn't do this
>>2018412That's because the old chain was worn equally with the cassette and chainring.Thus they were "meshed" perfectly. After that period it just skips no matter what, and you are guarenteed to need new chainrings, cassette, etc.Thus there are 2 logical ways to do it. Change your chain before it is super worn, or ride it into the ground and change all 3 at once.
>>2018414Crap. I already broke the old one to get it off and the bike is garbage. I just needed it to last till next year when I can get a new one.
What do you do when the threaded fork you want to use is like 10 mm too long for the head tube? Can you put spacers at the top like with threadless forks?
>>2018442you put spacers between the top race and the locknut. There's typically a keyed washer there, but you can add as many spacers as you need.
>>2018444Thanks
>>2018444>>2018446oops, forgor pic
>>2018341the limit is that big tires on narrow rims can feel squirrelly in corners especially at lower psi, or with heavier riders/ loads.
>>2018384you want to look for 'base bar' or 'pursuit bar', ie, things designed for time trial setups.
>>2018442there's a caveat to this which is that you really want your quill stem wedge below the threaded part of your steerer. That means the top of your headset doesn't dictate how high you can have your quill stem, but rather, where the threaded section of the fork ends. So, having a headset spaced up doesn't actually give you any advantage so far as how high your stem can be, and you really might as well cut the fork. It can be cut with a hose clamp as a guide and a regular hacksaw. Of course, a tonne of bikes are setup with the wedge on the threaded section, and it takes a long time for it to fail, and if it does fail the wedge should hold the two section together so it won't fail catastrophically. Many bikes just had one fork threaded really long and cut for each size so following best practice often isn't really even viable. Nonetheless.
>>2018451I plan to slam the handlebar, so it's probably not an issue, but I will take some measurements to make sure.
>>2018194I heard from a verified source that the battery can explode.
i dont have a bike shop near me. how do i know a bike will feel comfy and nice to ride when buying online?
>chain wear tool finally arrived>0.75% >new chain arrives in 5 days>plan to ride 300km tomorrow>mfwI should just cancel right?
>>2018460Your chain wear measurement tool may be overstating the chain wear.https://zerofrictioncycling.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/Chain-Wear-Checkers-Table.pdf
>>2018460The trip is more important.Send it. Worse case you have to get a cassette, and you don't ride 300 dollar 1x cassettes....... right?
>>2018463>>2018464rode 110km earlier. Now it's closer to 1AAAAAAAA>you don't ride 300 dollar 1x cassettesI don't know. It came with the bike. M8100 11 speed.
>>2018403I had this problem with some Nitto bars. I just ran them with Aero Road Levers and sold the TT levers. Not really a fan of them for descending anyway.
>>2018464>>2018466It does appear he's riding a 12-speed Shimano XT 1x groupset with a 10-45T or 10-51T cassette. It's $165 to replace. $82 if he is okay with going two levels down and getting the Deore cassette.
>>2018459it helps if you already own a bike that fits you and you have set up the fit and ridden it a lot and adjusted the fit perfectly for you.then, you can compare what you have against the spec sheet diagram of the new bike .if you don't have anything to go by, you still use the spec sheet against your height and inseam (bike inseam to floor, not pants inseam to ankle) and ask on forums and narrow it down that way. slacker angles on e.g. the head tube generally yield a more comfy ride but all but the most racey road bikes can be comfymaxxed.there's probably a bunch of things involved in the process that I don't know but that's the general idea. the stock saddle may not fit, you have to measure your sitbones and add a certain amount to the width depending on how hunched forward you ride the bike and faff around trying different ones. the angle should be very close to level but work out the width first.your reach and the stem part of the stack can be dialed in pretty painlessly with different stems' length and angle.saddle height is extremely straightforward, just use any guide (they all say the same thing) and make small adjustments from there.
is rebuilding a cheapo square taper bb like un300 with nice bearings to get a quality long-lasting bb smart or autistic
>>2018544It would probably take an hour and save me less than $20. I make $25 an hour at work
>>2018545i mean rebuilding a new one, throwing the shitty chink bearings away
>>2018544there is absolutely nothing wrong with loose (or caged) ball square taper. you do need a crank puller to get at it, they don't cost a lot but you can't get in there without one. I had a lifetime of those BBs until they invented the sealed units, I put one in when that bike's bearings got pitted. they're also good. then I got another used bike with loose ball that I daily'd and it never gave me problems but I eventually changed the gearing to compact, which required a 110 bcd crank which meant spending $150 on a square taper crank or $60 on a used hollowtec II, so I went hollowtec. it's also fine. it's wasteful to buy a whole new BB for the sealed ST and hollowtec instead of just bearings, which is annoying, but that's the way of the world these days.in sum, I like loose ball ST but I like the other options, too, except philosophically they're a bit more wasteful. I'd probably still ride loose ball if the smaller cranks didn't cost the same as an entire used bike.
>>2018548oh, and sealed ST and hollowtec ii both require proprietary tools as well, so no disadvantage to loose ball, there.however, the hollowtec installation CAN be improvised. for the plastic preload nut, just use anything that will turn it. it's a proprietary star shape but after getting it finger-tight, you only need ⅛ to ¼ turn more. I've done it with a butter knife.putting on the external BB things uses a splined tool but I've used channel-lock pliers with a doubled-over rag between the jaws and the BB. it can leave a mark easily since the BB is alu, but it will work.
>>2018546I would treat it as an experiment. Should go well and work better then the bad chink bearings.I don't do much research for nice cartridge bearings since they seem to always cost more then a new bb. I like fixing bikes so I tend to have infinite loose ball BB's, and if I ever have to get more square taper bb's I will go that route, since I can easily and cheaply fix+ride.
>>2018546And what difference are the new bearings going to make? Besides, I bet you'd just fuck it up getting the old bearings off and trying to install new ones.
>>2018555ive pulled and installed new bearing cups into laced hubs not everyone here is a leftist wrenchlet
>>2018555go ride
>>2018556I've probably logged more hours wrenching than you because old, and I vote left.what the hell does politics have to do with wrenching?>>2018555spoken like a true idiot
>>2018556sounds like a waste of time>>2018557i would say the same about the guy wanting to replace the BB bearings. just fucking ride it. If you wanna replace them when they go bad, cool, but it's a waste of fucking time to replace new bearings on a BB.>>2018558>spoken like a true idiotno u
>>2018546>>2018544>>2018556>the animal avatar guy is a broke NEETcolor me surprised
>>2018564im a registered nurse also i have a schizophrenic gf
>>2017233>>2017290I ended up getting this stem face mount from ritchey, seems perfect.
My Aliexpress pedal has developed weird side-to-side play. Can I service this, or do I just chuck it in the garbage?
>>2018604.... Does it look like you can service it?Generally there is a plug, or thing you can mess with on the other side of the pedal spindle. If you see a plastic plug or something you can pry that off, and you may find a cone and locknut you can have fun with.Well, that's what I find on old, cheap pedals.Find out yourself.
>>2016892yes>>2016893university campus, they ride bikes to class
What are some good starter bike brands for someone that doesn't mind paying a medium amount I'll mostly just be biking on streets and paved trails
>>2018676it's like asking for a starter car brand.there's not a specific brand for that, all the big companies make a variety of models for for different levels of enthusiasm and price point.the not-big brands tend to be boutique stuff or specific niches for people who can't get exactly what they want from other companies.a road bike at a low price point is going to de facto not be racing oriented. there used to be touring models but not as common anymore. gravel bikes are the big thing now, and those would work for you, also. the "hybrid" designation can be a dumping ground for crappy bikes for people who don't know better, but the good ones are worthwhile. if you post a budget, the anons that follow the new market can recommend something.used bikes give you the best value but if your market is small that may not be an option.
>>2018680im in seattle so i imagine we have a big used market here thanks anon ill do some research
>>2018680Not that anon, but can i get something good for $600?
>>2018682post your height and craigslist and rough budget i'll give you some recs
Has anyone actually used a hite rite? Seems kind of amusing for my 80's mtb if I can get one at an ok price, but I have a hard time imagining the seatpost riding up and down smoothly, or the spring returning it to position very well.>inb4 why not just get a $200 dropper post bro
54 or 56?5'9-5'10'', 33' inseam, stem ~100mm.Fork is steel so I can put tons of spacers.
Which cables are compatible with campagnolo brake/shifters (vintage/classic)? Jagwire set has them but I'm not seeing any pictures.
>>2018711I don't follow the new market closely but I think that's around the low end of decent? maybe not anymore what with inflation, but also I think there's still stuff they're discounting that didn't sell after they overproduced from the covid boom. so it depends highly on the bike and the deal.used, you can get something great for less, assuming what you want is available in your size
>>2018733dunno but last time I checked the only place that had them was NOS on ebay for $50
>>2018741Go by top tube length and if you like larger frames with bigger headtubes, or shorter frames with more drop+longer stems.The only reason to get a smaller frame is for shorter seat tube, shorter top tube, and shorter headtube. If you have a 33in inseam PBH you could probably fit up to a 58 if you wanted. However the headtube could be too tall for you then.I am 5'11(in the morning) with a 34.5in inseam and can fit anything from a 56- 63.5. I just slam the stem on the larger frames, have less seatpost, and have a shorter stem. On the 56 I use a 120mm stem, and the 63.5 has a 58cm top tube so I use a 100mm stem. Do keep in mind the seat tube angle slackens as you get a bigger frame, so if you like to slam your seat forward on a 54 don't get a 56. I notice on my vintage steel the bigger frames I tend to run my seat further forward, and the smaller frames the reverse.Luckily modern threadless stems allow tall risers and easy stem adjustments so the 54 or 56 will fit fine for you.>>2018756I uhhh just used what I had laying around. I know my vintage campy aero brakes required the rounded end. While the 7 speed dt shifters required the cylinder one, but inline. Not the mtb brake style where the cylinder is perpindicular to the cable. Jagwire is good stuff>>2018733If your seatpost tube isn't rusty I could see it work. I know with a nice QR seatpost clamp my seaposts glide well.Never used a hiterite but I can see it being nicer then just lowering the seat and eyeballing the nose on the toptube every time.
>>2018733They’re a load of shit that was never really popular until droppers has already been established and by that point they were just a vintage novelty to say “OMG WORLDS FIRST DROPPER???”QR works very well and if you ever rode before dropper posts you should be able to manage it. They make REAL droppers that fit 90’s seat tubes, they’re $100-125, but you don’t want to consider that because it’s not unique and novel right?
its cold and windy outsidewhats the cheapest way to bike in the comfort of my home?
>>2018782well if you want to be honest the anachronism would be more unique and novel still. But the entry price and maybe weight wouldn't quite be worth it; again, if I found one at a swap I wouldn't hesitate
>>20187325'11" and I'm willing to pay a decent chunk of change, 1500-2000. I would rather pay for quality up front because I know if I'm buying it i'm committed https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/
What's up with S-Works tarmacs? They're inordinately popular, surely they can't be the right bike for so many people?
>>2018799Weight of cheap droppers is kinda unreasonable yeah, especially for a bike that’s probably light as fuck by todays off-road bike standards
How hard is wheel truing? I will replace a spoke on my rear wheel soon and thought I could try to true the wheel too.
>>2018781thanks for input. I'm thinking about going steel for loaded touring and I wanted to see what frame others around my height ride.This is what I currently have (size M, -6 80mm stem). I get sharp pain inbetween my shoulder blades/traps/rhomboid/neck area quite rapidly when riding on the hoods. I ride most of the time on the drops. Honestly I can't tell if I'm too cramped due to high stack and short stem, or I'm just too long. The whole bike just feels wrong. This is my first bike ever and I've ridden it for a year.I have a couple stems here, 70mm and a 90mm -35deg but I'm hesitant to try them on. I can still return them and they're 30-50€ a pop.
Is there a single decent site where I can sort various bikes in particular categories by weight?
>>2018829Just watch some videos and read sheldon browns website. Oh, and make sure it's the right size spoke nipple tool. Do not go ham with the wrong tool.>>2018830> I get sharp pain inbetween my shoulder blades/traps/rhomboid/neck area quite rapidly when riding on the hoods. I ride most of the time on the drops. Honestly I can't tell if I'm too cramped due to high stack and short stem, or I'm just too long. The whole bike just feels wrong. Too cramped. Especially since you ride most of the time in the drops. I think just lowering the stem would be enough. If you have some spacers to flip above the stem I would slam your current stem so it's in the lowest setting. Ride for a week, then see if you adjust to a better position or not. If you are too long you will ride on the "tops" or "ramps" more often since that part of the bar is closer to you then the hoods or the much further drops.To me your bike's specs seem to have a long top tube, and the head tube is reasonable to a vintage bike, but on those you have deeper drops and longer reach bars. I prefer to ride with more reach and less drop, but people are different and I adapted to this as a teenager so it's "normal" to me.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZbuK4-HXhxYIs an interesting video on this issue. I have ridden a bike with too low of a handlebar and I did roll my shoulders forward+extend my fingers. Haven't done too high since I just bend my arms more on bikes with taller headtubes/stack.Just try stuff and make decent changes at first, then when you know what direction is feeling better reduce that till you end up where you want to go. If you had a local used bike store/community shop those places have cheap stems and parts to swap out for this type of stuff. I would only buy new if you knew the bar setup would be perfect.
>>2016884https://www.dollartree.com/product/327607Don't forget the batteries. They were selling more environmentally friendly ones, but I doubt all considered beat good nickel metal hydride. https://rayovac.com/product/recharge-4-position-aa-aaa-charger-w-batteries/Used to be able to buy direct from Rayovac there, but I can't find it.
