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File: 1687566216098.mp4 (1.63 MB, 720x1280)
1.63 MB
1.63 MB MP4
special mp4 edition

Resources:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help
RJ the bike guy on youtube
Previous thread >>2024321
>>
wow, hauling her friends even with suboptimal leg extension and power output
>>
>>2025932
>unracer sees small japanese schoolgirl, immediately starts obsessing over how much faster she is
she's obviously just trying to larp as a tour de france pro, look at those shorts? they don't have shorts in amsterdam you stupid american!
>>
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>>2025931
what are (you)r thoughts on shimano essa? unlike cues it's backwards compatible with hg, so i thought the rd and cassette might be an easy way to convert my 8 speed to 1x which will give me a decent range with 45t, but i can't find any info/reviews on this groupset anywhere.
>>
Any advice on mixing shimano road & mtb brakes?

Have 11 speed ultegra hydraulic shifters
I want to run them with a post mount boost fork and a 29er front wheel
The frame is flat mount and i have 105 calipers for it.

From what i'm reading it's all broadly compatible and a XT caliper should work in the front, but i've never setup disc brakes before, and wondering if there are any downsides to this.
Any advice appreciated. Will post some pics when I get the fork (it's in the mail).

I'm not commited to jank but it seems like it should actually just be better.
It's gonna be a touring bike.
>>
>>2025968
>Ideal for MTB, fitness, and city bikes, supporting active lifestyles.
> Shimano Essa is a new 1x drivetrain, 8-speed groupset for affordable mountain bikes and urban bikes. The new range complements Shimano's ...
>2 Apr 2024 — This new kit is an update to the existing 8-speed lineup; it is versatile, robust, and priced to target entry-level bikes. Best of all, ESSA is ...


seems like cheap shit at the altus/ tourney level. Looks like the chainrings aren't even replaceable.
the reason you're not seeing reviews is that no one would deliberately spec this groupset, it's just something you'd get stock on cheap bikes. The build quality is probably quite low, but you know, even cheap shimano groupsets are 'fine'.
Paying retail for it for a custom project imo is retarded but hey i've already ranted at you and it's not gonna be worse than chinese garbage which is the usual angle of your ilk.
>>
>>2025968
>1x
>all black
>SHIMANO HG on largest cog and it's attached with rivets like their freewheels
I sleep
Everyday I learn people are too stupid to use a front derailleur.
I mean I can see some use cases, but I just hope they don't start removing older 8speed stuff that I still use like smaller cassettes.
>>
>>2025974
I think you just have to be mindful of where the hose exits the caliper.
Road fittings are usually whereas some mtb brakes exit to the side and have a banjo fitting
>>
>>2025977
*usually inline
>>
>>2025975
well i currently have 8 speed claris and it works perfectly, so i can't imagine it being that much worse.
>Paying retail for it for a custom project imo is retarded
what would you recommend instead? i don't mind paying more though replacing the shifters and everything too is a hassle, and my bike comes with rim brakes so i can't use hydraulic stuff.
>chinese garbage which is the usual angle of your ilk
only for accessories, i obviously wouldn't buy a chinesium derailleur or cassette.
>>2025976
i doubt that they'll get rid of small 8 speed cassettes anytime soon, essa is a mtb product and road cues will start at 9 speed too. though maybe 9 speed will be the lowest speed on new bikes at some point?
>>
>>2025979
Oh I thought you where the guy with a Dew.
you have that euro'd fendered kickstanded claris bike you converted to 1x right, and you just want more range?

Go back to 2x.
>>
>>2025979
>i obviously wouldn't buy a chinesium derailleur or cassette.
Honestly that wouldn't even be a bad play here if you insist on 1x you'd just accept it's a meme project.
>>
>>2025979
I would first try a parts bin XT mech with a longer/flipped around b-screw, which might shift 11-42 depending on the hanger/frame
>>
>>2025977
I see. That would just mean i need to make a custom hose though right, and that would fix the issue? I think i'd be doing that anyway.
>>
>>2025968
imo the better option up front is to find a deal on a quality new 1x ring (wolftooth etc) and find a used crankset that fits it which can use a new bb that is compatible with your frame.
Used cranksets with thrashed out rings are often cheap/ free and often you can use a nice older square taper one which gives you a lot of flexibility with your chainline and looks cool.

Or do the same with a chinese narrow wide and just accept your drivetrain won't last that long.

Buying a new riveted garbo crankset for probably not even that cheap doesn't really make sense unless you're just lazy and if so then why are you even doing custom shit.
>>
>>2025983
Just find an mtb caliper with a straight/inline fitting like the M6000 for example
>>
>>2025985
easy mate cheers . got so much shit to learn on this build , hydros, tubeless, pressfit , thru axle
>>
>>2025980
2x sucks for my environment though, i need something that can shift quickly for urban use, and switching between chainrings while worrying about crosschaining and stuff at every single traffic light/intersection is inconvenient.
>>2025981
it's my main bike and i don't have a garage to dick around with bikes in sadly, so meme projects aren't really possible
>>2025982
as far as i can see xt only comes in 12 speed, 12 speed brifters are a bit much for a bike that cost 600 bucks
>>2025984
yeah i wasn't planning on getting the crankset, just the rd and cassette.
>>
>>2025988
If you are just getting the RD and cassette it should work great. Just double triple check your shifter pull is the same, since sometimes companies fuck with that.
Obviously the RD should mesh with either cassettes they sell of the 11-40 or 11-45
>>
>>2025989
yeah i know it would work as it's described as backwards compatible with 8 speed hg stuff. though now i worry the quality is as bad as anons says or it's not worth the money/effort compared to higher tier stuff or 2x.
>>
>>2025968
essa joke
>>
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>>2025931
I dont think thats good for their snatches to ride right on the fender like that
>>
>>2025993
They're sitting on a rack you blind motherfucker
>>
>>2025988
>2x sucks for my environment though, i need something that can shift quickly for urban use, and switching between chainrings while worrying about crosschaining and stuff at every single traffic light/intersection is inconvenient.
that's super fucking retarded. It's easy as fuck to use 2x you just have to learn it , it just takes a while to get in your head
>>
>>2025994
No rack is visible
>>
Had problems with my ghetto tubeless tires deflating for years. I thought it was just because they're technically not TR rims, but it was because I followed the tape instructions of basically just covering a bit past the spoke holes where in reality I had to have 2 layers, right to the vey edge of the rim so the tire bead sits on that and not the aluminum.
Just thought I'd share that
>>
>>2025974
different pull length between drop and flat levers might give you problems
>>
>>2026000
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Object_permanence

The rack stays are visible.
>>
>>2025968
Cheap, semi disposable commutter crap.

>>2025979
It's not an upgrade. It's something you get if your claris shit breaks. Usually off of someone's crashed bike, as this shit will be on low end, borderline BSO bikes.

Instead of buying this, save money for your next bike.

>>2025988
Jesus fucking christ. The cyclocross, gravel racers and XC people can manage with 2x. Learn your shifting ranges. Even if you stay 1x, it's something everyone should be able to do.
>>
>>2026010
>can manage
Yeah, that's what "inconvenient" means. Doesn't mean you have suffer with "can manage" if a more convenient alternative is available to you.
>>
>>2026012
I clearly wasn't firm enough. Unless you're riding offroad harsh enough where you need suspension and a clutch rd, 2x should be zero inconvenience. Simply not shifting still gets you the benefit of the chainguide properties of the FD. Insisting otherwise is like being incapable of changing your own flats or adjusting your own brake pads.

Now there's nothing wrong with liking 1x better, but this new drivetrain really isn't better than your claris even for that.
>>
>>2026006
... what are you basing that on ?
>>
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Can anyone help me identify this model and year? I'm just trying to find more info about it in order to decide if I want to buy it
>>
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>>2025997
if you're experienced with 2x, explain how to properly shift from high gear at a full stop. because shifting to the small chainring is crosschaining, and so is staying in the big ring downshifting on the cassette. are you supposed to shift with both at every intersection?
>>2026010
do you really recommend getting a whole new bike instead of different components? i'm pretty happy with the frame and stuff.
>The cyclocross, gravel racers and XC people can manage with 2x
they don't need to come to a complete stop every 100m, that's the issue
>>2026014
that anon is not me. what do you mean by chainguide properties? chain retention? because i've found that a 1x narrow-wide retains my chain just fine, if not better.
>>
>>2026023
crosschaining is a newbie meme
pojacar cross chains all the time
>>
>>2025948
rent free
>>
>>2026021
Don't. is my answer
Cheap post, frame looks like modern current type walmart frame, threadless stem confirms the above, shitty brakes,rusty chain, radial spokes on the front(sigh).
Maybe for free.
Good choice for a commuter you don't care about getting stolen.
>>2026005
Whatever self-flagellation you enjoy with you and your rubber and white goop.
>>2026023
You are cross chaining more frequently on a 1x, just to a theoretically lesser degree since the chainring is in the "middle" of the cassette.

Here is how you shift a 2x.
>it's flat and I am stopped
shift down a couple from cruising speed. It's fine if you go to the end of the cassette. Then start riding, as you go faster shift up(harder) gears and you are not cross chaining as much.
>I am too weak/lots of wind/hill stop
shift down the front chainring, and shift down to the easy gear you want. Then when you start riding shift up harder till the 2nd hardest gear. If that isn't enough shift up the front chainring. If you are doing that all the time, then yes going 1x would be easier.

The key is just shift the cassette at intersections. If you are in small small(easy chainring+hard cassette cog) then you should be in the big chainring instead and stay in that. If you are in big-big(hard chainring+easy cassette cog) the reverse is true.

You could also just say fuck that noise and stay in the small chainring or big chainring the whole time.
>>
>>2026021
>>2026022
look like a stinker, don't bother
>>
>>2026007
Looks like you are seeing what you want to see
>>
>>2026029
>You could also just say fuck that noise and stay in the small chainring or big chainring the whole time.
well that's what i used to do, just permanently use the big ring because the small one feels too weak. that's why i went with 1x52t front. it works fine rn. maybe i should get a bigger small chainring, something like 46-52? though idk if that works with a fd. or a smaller cassette? i imagine going from 30t to 28t wouldn't make that much difference.
>>
>>2026023
>. are you supposed to shift with both at every intersection
your problem is you aren't anticipating your shift. you're supposed to downshift (yes, Timmy, front and rear) before you come to a full stop. move the shifters, pedal the crank a half turn or so until the chain moves, then hit the brakes and stop.
now when you start, you're in the gear you want.

you're supposed to be shifting proactively, not reactively, all the time. but stopping is when it's most necessary.
welcome to bikes.
>>
just putting this here since this is the biggest bike thread.
there's an anon writing a book about riding his bike across Canada, he posted an excerpt on /lit/.
seems bretty gud.
let's see if I can make the link right
>>>/lit/23981113
>>
Asked this near the end of the previous thread as well. This board is probably mostly anti-surly in current year, but does anyone have experience with the ogre, or would recommend it as an all-terrain tourer? Foregoing used, I feel like it’s either that or bikes which cost nearly twice as much, but it’s hard to shake the feeling that I’d be buying a meme in both cases. Speaking of memes, I’m not too excited about the idea of an old mtb build considering my 6’3” and their 26”.

On an unrelated note, all this shifting talk made me realise I miss my 90s downtube shifter roadie…
>>
>>2026023
Anticipating what gear you're going to need to be in. The front and rear ring should overlap for much of their range. If you're having problems feeling it, try taking a look at a gear ratio calculator and seeing what your normal launch gear is. You should be able to launch from both rings from flat without really cross chaining, unless you're baby legs or have the wrong rings. Shfting both levers is still a simple thing though. Use the gear ratio calculator to see where the overlap points are if you can't feel it.

>they don't need to come to a complete stop every 100m, that's the issue
CX has full stops where you carry your bike.

>do you really recommend getting a whole new bike instead of different components? Generally yes. Or treating it as a wear replacement rather than an upgrade. For an upgrade, look at what the dedicated 1x performance road drivetrains look like. And they've got mixed reviews at best.

>>2026036
Use the calculator. See full sized road vs compact.

>>2026021
Frankenbiked 1970s to 1989 . Unless it fits, and is SUPER cheap, skip it. Probaly has a hpster tax.
>>
>>2026044
All terrain touring is already a meme. Figure out your tires and work from there. Maybe an old 29'er mtb as well might work?
>>
>>2026041
>(yes, Timmy, front and rear)
this is absolute fucking nonsense

Lets say he has 50/34 and 11-32

11, 13, 15, 18, 21, 24, 28, 32

You would ride these gears 11, 13, 15, 18, 21, 24 in the big ring
and these gears 21, 24, 28, 32 in the small ring
If you need to crosschain further than that, say, to punch and crest a hill, you can.

At a stop light you would just shift down to 52- 18/21/24 depending
It is absolutely not necessary to be in a smaller gear than that, or to crosschain, to takeoff from a light.

>>2026036
>well that's what i used to do, just permanently use the big ring because the small one feels too weak.

On the flat, yes. The small gear exists for hills. Part of what you orignally mentioned with your new drivetrain plan is that you wanted more range... so if you want more range then that's what 2x is, it's more range, for hills. The small gear is for hills.

>if you're experienced with 2x, explain how to properly shift from high gear at a full stop. because shifting to the small chainring is crosschaining, and so is staying in the big ring downshifting on the cassette. are you supposed to shift with both at every intersection?

No dude, unless you have a very tight cassette, which is not how modern drivetrains work, the small gear IS FOR HILLS
>>
>>2026021
>>2026022
You can tell this is a cheap bike because of the style of seatpost, where it's like a steel tube and then the clamp is a seperate piece. That's a major tell of a shitty cheap bike, then and now, (and those ride badly and are heavy as fuck). Those brake calipers are also garbage stamped steel spec, and the style of brake levers on drop bars is retarded because it puts your brakes not in the position where you have most control. The crank with non replaceable steel chainring is also another major tell of a shitty cheap bike and those are prone to bend.
>>2026048
>Frankenbiked 1970s to 1989
No it's not, see the threadless unicrown fork? It's relatively modern.

Bike is not really worth anything but might be ok if it's next to free. Whether it's ok or not would probably depend on how well built the wheels are, which is hard to tell, i'd go around squeezing pairs of spokes and see if the tension is roughly ok. Bikes are really just a set of wheels, the rest being garbage on a beater doesn't really even matter as long as you're not paying real money for it.
>>
>>2026048
also sloping geo, obviously not old, wtf?

>>2026021
if i got this i'd put some swept bars and a basket zip tied on the front of them. I like the colour which is not a bad reason to buy a bike lol but i wouldn't spend more than $50 on it.
>>
>>2026044
Literally nothing wrong with 26" wheels. They aren't the best choice for everything, but nothing ever is.
>>
>>2026044
Not my wheel house. I worry about surly bikes since I get the impression they are just strong overbuilt bikes, which leads to a stiff,dead ride feel but I guess that's what you may want. Similar to a rigid 26in mtb that isn't nicer.
I am 4 inches shorter then you and(all legs). Never had an issue with 26in bikes, but I know that is a common meme for the last 15+years.
Once you get a 26x2.25 the diameter is similar to a 700x23. I would look at it more like 26in has older stuff in general which can be good if you like cheap/easy to fix but is worse if you want high performance.
>>
>>2026021
schwinn haven
https://web.archive.org/web/20150327061415/https://www.performancebike.com/bikes/product_10052_10551_1168848_-1_400316__400316
>>
>>2026063
there are no hills so the small chainring is pretty much vestigial. i was just thinking that with a larger range i'd need to shift less due to larger differences in the gearing, and i'd still have the super low 40-52 gear if i needed it for the occasional long tall bridge or something. i also feel like 1x is just nicer to use, but maybe i just need to set it up better or get a higher tier one. only issue is that from what i've read fd cable pull changes standards at tiagra, which is usually the one i see recommended.
>>
>>2026063
I feel like you get better acceleration if you shift down as you can attain a higher cadence from a standing start
>>
>>2026020
experience mainly, not saying it's universal but in many cases at least drops have a shorter pull length so you may not get full bite (and the other way around they're too sensitive)
>>
>>2026021
Hi Ten steel, that in itself makes it not worth it in addition to Hi Ten's association with junk parts.
Unless it's like $50 and you want something to take to bars or lock up all day
>>
>>2026044
fwiw I love my surly steamroller although I have one bike that's lighter and one bike that's a fair bit heavier (probably Ogre weight) and it's amazing how different the acceleration is. And I'm 180lb by the time I'm fully hydrated before a ride.

So tldr I'd buy it and trust it but maybe not over something noticeably lighter
>>
>>2026075
does it apply to hydros though?
you say 'pull' but fluid isn't being pulled
What combos have you tried?

I know all about mechanical advantage and cable pull for cable brakes.
>>
>>2026072
so hold up, you're looking to change what you have now for essentially no reason at all?

Or, just that you WANT wider gaps between gears (and you already have reasonably wide gaps) so you can shift less?
>>
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>>2026072
alright anon, here's what you do, buy the absolute widest chinese cassette you can get for 8 speed, the 11-46

11-13-16-22-28-34-40-46T

Remove the top 3 cogs so that it is just a 5 speed. Replace those with spacers from your current cassette. Big weight savings.

Now you have only 5 gears to worry about with massive gaps between them. You don't have to change anything else, you lock out those gears with your low limit screw, and your shifter just has a few clicks that do nothing.
>>
>>2026083
>you're looking to change what you have now for essentially no reason at all?
i feel like that describes a lot of my component/accessory purchases lol
>you WANT wider gaps between gears so you can shift less?
sort of, just to make it easier to shift on a dime for urban riding. but perhaps i just need to stop trying to wrangle my road bike into a city bike and just ride it more.
>>2026084
this seems extremely retarded even for me but i guess that's your point
>>
>>2026086
nothing wrong with messing about with dumb shit on bikes i would just suggest you buy several different bikes to mess around with rather than constantly changing the setup on one when stuff isn't even worn out or needing a service.
>>
>>2026063
uh, idiot, you're arguing with the wrong person. the guy I'm replying to specifically asked about how to shift out of the big ring when he commenced after a stop, so I explained it to him.
get fucked you self-important douchenozzle
>>
>>2026087
oh if i could i'd have dozens of bikes, i just don't have any place to store them whatsoever.
>>
>>2025993
Can women just balance on their vaginas like that?
>>
>>2026023
>if you're experienced with 2x, explain how to properly shift from high gear at a full stop. because shifting to the small chainring is crosschaining, and so is staying in the big ring downshifting on the cassette. are you supposed to shift with both at every intersection?


>>2026041
>you're supposed to downshift (yes, Timmy, front and rear) before you come to a full stop.

>>2026088
uh, sorry, what?

He didn't specifically ask how to shift out of the big ring, he just asked how to shift and you told him to downshift in the front for every stop, which is retarded, especially for a person who hates front shifting so much they converted to 1x.
>>
>>2025261

Ok so I’ve finally taken a look at it. Flipped bike upside down and spun the wheels. Front wheel is slowing down/brushing the side of the brakes whenever it passes a specific spot. Unhooked the thing keeping the two sides together and spun the wheel again and it’s definitely the sound of it touching the brakes that I’m hearing. When leaving them hanging loose it still manages to brush one side though, I have to pull that side further away to not hear anything.

Tried looking up how to fix a wobbling wheel and it seems I need to figure out if it’s moving slightly to the left/right or slightly up/down then adjust the spokes in that area with a spoke wrench? Does that sound right to you guys? I took a short video of it just in case it provides you any insight that is beyond me

https://files.catbox.moe/2d7t7g.MOV
>>
>>2026082
I've only applied it to cables but I assume it's a similar phenomenon. Just cheap brake levers, like Shimano bottom end stuff.

I have some juin tech brakes now, cable hydro and I imagine they would go pretty well using MTB on hood types but not the other way around
>>
>>2026097
not bad guide here. I use cable ties, snip them about an inch longer than they would to touch the rim and then spin them back and forwards so you can dial in the distance very accurately.

https://www.parktool.com/en-int/blog/repair-help/wheel-and-rim-truing

also that wheel doesn't look very out of true at all so it might be your brake arms that moved and need adjusted, they should each hit the rim at the same time but it looks like one is much closer than the other
>>
>>2026075
There no difference all shimano hydraulics are the same in many cases they share the same parts internally.
>>
>>2026110
I could be wrong on hydraulics, which would be a good thing, but cable's definitely different pull lengths in some cases
>>
>>2026109
The other one is so far away because it’s not connected at all during that clip. I could try adjust where the brake pads sit but I can’t understand why it would only occur once per rotation if it wasn’t a wheel issue. Could be that the wheels have always wobbled ever so slightly and now one sides brakes is just slightly closer and that’s causing an issue. If I moved the brake pad further away would I be able to feel if the front tyre was going to be an issue?
>>
>>2026113
OK I get ya senpai. I was just thinking you could have been rolling with that tiny bit of being untrue without knowing it, but wen the lever arm was bumped in closer it became more apparent. You may as well get the wheel all true anyway, it's quite satisfying and enjoyable to do once you get the hang of it.

I imagine moving the brake lever a little further away would make the noise go away and you probably wouldn't notice any difference in braking but it's not a good habit to be fucking around with suboptimal brakes
>>
>>2026110
thanks mate
>>
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Did my first tubeless setup today
>DT swiss 500 rims
>48mm gravelkings
>peaty’s sealant
>aliexpress valves

Went much easier than expected. Tires seated easily with just a regular floor pump and it all sealed well without any leaks.

Anyone used this sealant before?
From what I’ve read it should be one of the best at the pressure I’m running (30-35 psi).
>>
>>2026136
I have some Peaty's but haven't used it yet. I seen you taped properly, on the Peaty's guide it says not to go too far towards the rim for some reason.
>>
>>2026136
No experience with that but 30-35psi is a good starting point with those tires. Gravelkings are a little thin on the sidewall so if it's low I could see running a little higher, especially rigid on a gravel bike.
>>
>>2026097
Wheel looks true enough, but check it with a pencil, pen, idealy a sharpie so you can mark what areas are out of true.. Notice you have TOO much clearance on the other side. Check the park tool guide on linear brake setup for CENTERING.
>>
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how would you go around finding information about an older bicycle? I bought this bicycle to fix it up, pimp it up
it looks like to be a Corratec Cross Freeride but my google-fu is failing me, I'm not even sure what year it was manufactured in
I'd like to know more about it so I can get attached to it, and a manual would be great because I fully took it apart to clean it
>>
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>>2026181
that groupset was made from 1998-2004
>>
is this some chinese scam site?
jinluobicycle.com

seems like unrealistic discounts and free shipping/returns
>>
>>2026181
the rear derailleur says LX, but I can't see the rest of the group. if they also say LX, then that's the original groupset and it's a very good group, it was second from top tier, equal in performance to XT but not as light (still pretty light, though) that would mean the bike is good, since the group tiers match up with the frame tiers, the sus fork tiers, and maybe the wheel tiers but sometimes mfrs cheap out there.

but you have an aftermarket crank by a brand I've never heard of, a frame I've never heard of, and an aftermarket seat post which is crap. so my question is, is the bike crap but the rear derailleur broke and they put a good one on, or is the bike good but they put a shitty cheap "suspension" post on. the crank is either really good or complete shit, that's how unknown brands go.

I believe it's a good bike, but I just don't know.

use the OP links to figure out how to service it. if the fork hasn't been kept up then it needs service. a lot of times there are still kits for the old forks, but if not, you may need a new one (rigid or sus, your choice) or maybe you can lock that one out.
>>
>>2026201
oh, sometimes mfrs put mixed groupsets on, with different tiers , like maybe your derailleurs came LX but the hubs were regular Deore or Alivio or something, the brakes could be a third thing. that would be a sign of a midrange bike but still not Walmart crap . or the previous owner could have made it a complete Frankenstein of parts, but are they good or bad? maybe like the third owner was a dumbass who put that stupid seatpost on and otherwise the bike is good. just gotta check. other anon posted the full LX group, so start comparing. tell us if stuff is branded otherwise. if it just says Shimano and a small part number stamped on it, it probably sucks but you can google it, maybe the branding just wore off.
>>
>>2026023
You're "allowed" to cross chain retard. There's no cops watching you. All it is is sub optimal for wear and efficiency. If you need to cross chain for a moment in order to shift to a better gear, or get up a hill, your bike isn't gonna blow up.
>>
>>2026204
wisdom. I do it every day, just not for any meaningful length of time
>>
>>2026204
no need to cross chain ever, jumps between gears are tiny
>>
>>2026193
>>2026201
>>2026203
thanks, it's not the full LX group and it seems to all be different brands, except the seatpost and handlebar stem (zzyzx USA)
I don't think anything was swapped by previous owners, there's an auction in Germany for the same model and the parts are the same (https://www.zoll-auktion.de/auktion/produkt/1_Herrenfahrrad_Corratec_Cross_freedride_28_Zoll/863721)
I'll just accept that it's a pretty decent bicycle that's around 20 years old, which means it's old enough to drink, and get it going again
>>
>>2026181
the tire is the same brand as the bike, which might mean it's super low mileage.

It's a city/hybrid bike, that's what the 'cross' means, also the fact that it has a dynamo boss and 700c wheels.
I quite like the 700c euro spec trekking bikes with mtb parts, but the rigid cromo ones.
Although it's fairly high spec, the aluminium hybrid with an old suspension fork is not really a desirable combination.

Chainrings are getting on a bit but i'd say they're useable.

That fork, with rake, is also very bizarre. Is it supposed to be like that or is it bent? Neither situation really makes any sense. That's actually kinda cool. Really the viability of the bike depends on the condition of the fork which is probably bad, hell, it wouldn't really have been any good when new.

I would service the hubs and gauge the condition of the wheels and if they're good, look for a cromo frameset to put the parts on. If they're bad, rebuild it as is as a shitter.
>>
>>2026181
>a manual would be great because I fully took it apart to clean it
Nothing about that bike is specific to it.
There's no reason that you'd need a manual.
>>
>>2026181
the people telling you to maybe service the fork are nuts. Servicing a cheap hybrid fork is not a thing.
I don't think replacing it makes sense either because sourcing a fork and swapping the headset bits around is not easier than sourcing a frameset and there's nothing particularly nice about that frame.
>>
>>2026218
>the people telling you to maybe service the fork are nuts. Servicing a cheap hybrid fork is not a thing.

Yeah, exactly what this guy says.
First, the bike has 'corratec' tires so it wasn't even ridden 2500 miles. It has the OG gruppo. Just straddle the bikes front wheel and push down on the fork? Does it spring down and back? youre good.
>>
>>2025931
I can barely keep my bike upright when it's loaded with groceries and the frame is bending all over the place
>>
>>2026232
so what's your question?
>>
>>2026232
Maybe don't pick up groceries with a lightweight racing bike....
Or disperse the weight better(this is why tourers run front racks, and inside the mainframe packs).
Or lose some weight
Or go slower
Or.....
>>
>>2025550
Found one for $55, worth it?
>>
>>2026244
> I need a bar with the right size and bend
yes
I mostly run vintage bars and I am happy on most non-ergo bars. I have used up to 42 or 44cm width down to 40's.
Heck, my favorites are old school bull horn bars called cinelli tempos.
>>
>>2026232
It's probably a bad rack setup
Frames being too noodly to ride well loaded is a thing but racks are far more significant
>>
>>2026218
I will never understand the mentality that many cyclists have about the value of bikes.
>Don't spend a penny on that bike, it's not WORTH it
What difference does it make? He's trying to get a good functioning bike, not flip it for profit.
Getting a new fork that works isn't that hard, the holdup is that people like you are saying not to do it because the new fork costs as much as the rest of the bike.
This mentality is nuts, and has to come from extreme poverty.
>>
>>2026327
say you have $500 to spend on a bicycle
you could spend $100 on an old bike and the rest on 'modernising it'
or you could spend $400 on a good bike and have $100 left to spend on tires
>>
>>2026199
I bet they just drop ship that shit from aliexpress. It's all garbage product, regardless of the business's legitimacy.
>>
>>2026327
>>2026181
>I'd like to know more about it so I can get attached to it

That's why.
He isn't attached to it, he hasn't even ridden it yet.
It's absolutely worth spending money/ time on a bike that you like, like riding, or that has sentimental value.
Hell the cost of servicing a bike at a shop is often more than it's value, but that's still usually worth it if you don't want to learn.

Or even, that you understand the limitations of the bike but want to do anyway, i highly respect Huffy meme projects for example, but from people who are doing it for fun, not doing it because they just don't know.

He's starting from scratch on what is essentially a custom project and so it's worth knowing the relative quality of what he's working with so that he doesn't overinvest and then get frustrated at ending up with a bike which isn't that good. If it's just to learn then fine but i frequently see new people pick up projects that they should have been more selective with and then end up disapointed because actually all they want is a good bike and they could have had one that was better, so they mess around with the low spec stuff and then eventually they decide old bikes suck and buy something modern.
>>
>>2026370
>you could spend $100 on an old bike and the rest on 'modernising it'
makes sense if you can pick up a cool high spec project
>>
>>2026370
because hell, even 5 years is enough time for bearings and cables and everything else to get fanged out so your 'modern' bike can just as easily be a worthless piece of shit as something old, and the quality entry level of the new market starts over 1k and below that you're still usually looking at bikes which are even sort of projects, it's outrageous the build quality in the factory and the shop of the new cheap stuff. People think 'new' means something that it doesn't.

It's often less work to overhaul a decent 90s bike than setup a department store shitter out of the box properly.
>>
>>2026327
>>Don't spend a penny on that bike, it's not WORTH it
I know someone who spent $200 on getting his basic cromo bike powdercoated. He could have gotten a WAY nicer frame for half that, and the original paint would have been more charming.
I tried to tell him subtly not to do it, but asked if he really was fond of the bike and liked how the old suntour parts worked, maybe it's worth it, he said yeah, he loves riding it, he loves how it works. But now he's like, i want to upgrade the brakes, i don't like the tight gearing, his hubs are worn out, his stem is too long, actually none of the parts are good for him.
Value of his repainted frame? $20.

He's gonna be sinking like $500 into a shitter and he doesn't even like the doing the work part.
>>
>>2026327
Problem is when you try to discuss this you always get anons coming out of the woodwork to go,
>yeah! old bikes suck just buy something new, working on bikes is a waste of time

That's not what i'm saying at all.

I even like cheaper, lower end old bikes, just not for full custom builds. You should understand they're cheap and keep them cheap.
>>
>>2026379
Sounds just like a young kid who doesn't know. Once he experiences nice stuff and cheaper good stuff he will figure it out.
>>
>>2026382
he's an adult, adults are just as likely to not know, except they'll think they know

now he knows lol
>>
I'm taking a Mongoose fat bike and making it into a 32-29er mullet. Does that fall under custom project for fun or pointlessly upgrading a turd?
Yes I will post pics of it when it's done.
>>
>>2026386
>>
>>2026386
What exactly are you trying to achieve?
>>
>>2026386
Surely the advantages you gain from a mullet bike in no way make up for having quite an old gen bike
>>
>>2026327
It's about relative price and cost, as compared to, as this anon suggests, just getting a better starting point.

>>2026386
What parts do you need to pull that off? If you've got a spare 29'er wheel that fits with another axel? And what the hell are you riding where it makes sense in the first place?
>>
>>2026377
You can easily find a mid 2010s high end bike for $500 that will ride a million times better than the 8 speed atb you converted to 1X with purple aliexpress parts
>>
>>2026402
meaningless post
>>
>browsing through Craigslist
>see a nice bike
>message seller
>"no sorry I don't have any info, I don't know the make or model or anything"
>one of the messages is a brown thumbs up emoji
>instantly realize the bike is stolen
>>
>>2026390
What are the disadvantages of an "old" bike like mine? It's a 2016 so it's ancient in the bike world. Be explicitly clear what can't be done with it vs a brand new bike.

People like you act like if a bike is more than 2 years old it's unrideable.
>>
>27.2 seatpost
Unrideable garbage

>25.4 handlebar
Flimsy garbage

>Straight steer tube
Ancient garbage

>8 or 9 speed
Landfill garbage

>BSA bottom bracket
Ancient technology. Garbage.

>100/135mm spacing
Narrow garbage.

>QR skewer
Convenient garbage.

>Steel frame
Heavy garbage.

>No Carbon
Primitive garbage

>Cables
Mechanical garbage

No one rode bikes before COVID, they all just sat around with bike shaped objects and wished they lived right at this very moment in time so they could buy a REAL bike.
>>
>>2026406
>It's a 2016 so it's ancient in the bike world.
Don't get brainwashed by the consoomerism. A nice bike can last for ages if you take care of it properly. I think the issue is that most people don't know how to and don't care to maintain their bike. So in their mind a bike is a disposable product. Because yeah, any bike that ridden frequently will be crap after 2 years if you don't take care of it and don't replace consumable parts.
>>
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my chuddy tpu tubes are ok, but the pressure drops from 2 bars in a week. is it normal for cheapo tpu?
>>
>>2026406
I think in this case the "old gen" argument is dumb since a 32-29er is a meme build.

I also think for road bikes the old gen argument is dumb unless you know you want >28mm tires.

But for MTB even a 5 year old bike has big geometry differences. Things have become very long-and-low and if you're chasing performance it'd be unwise to invest in a 2016 full suspension.
>>
>>2026416
yeah, me too. tubes sweat out air eventually, but butyl sweats it much slower than tpu
>>
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I was thinking of making a thread, but there's a few things I want to say.

1. 99% of N is pedal bikes (maybe10% e-bikes?)
Which I just want to say in my opinion are USELESS trash. WORSE then walking.

But here's the thing, Obviously Motorcycles and road vehicles similar to motorcycles are O not N.

But there's some things I wish to talk about.
I don't know if anyone noticed, but there's TWO types of scooters?
And i don't mean electric vs non electric.

They make scooters, which seem to be electric motorcycles, but call them scooters?
Is this a mistake people make?
I'm confused.

And then there's also e-bikes, mopeds, dirt bikes, and other stuff.
And things seem to get too divided and confusing?
How many types of powered Bikes should there be? Maybe 2? Yet there's like...4+ types?
Why?
>>
>>2026421
I was looking at the full image too, before i cropped it btw. Here.
>>
CVT variator technology has been around for decades, now I can buy a used scooter like a Honda Dio in good condition for $200-300 with a working CVT. Why the fuck hasn't it become the norm in bikes yet? Why the fuck should I shell out $3,000 for a bike with a CVT. I'm sick of constantly shifting gears...
>>
>>2026423
Show me where you can find a Honda Dio for 200-300, please.

Priority Continuum Onyx is $1350 and that's a pretty badass bike. I'm sure there are tons of sub $1000 bikes with enviolo cvts.

But maybe you should just stick to scooters.
>>
>>2026410
>your entire post
complete garbage
>>
>>2026423
they make a cvt for bicycles, it's heavy as hell and expensive but if you want it go ahead and buy one
>>
>>2026405
nah most people dont know much about their bike and or aren't interested in providing details

many bikes are sold for a friend/ family or like pulled from under the house. It really doesn't mean stolen, stolen would be if they refused to meet at their house, had an e-bike with no charger, or it was something really fancy and massively undervalued.

Badly detailed bikes are actually the best way to buy, and if you know your shit then you should be able to work out size and relative quality by eyeballing it. Just ask to go view, and haggle with cash.

People who actually put effort into selling usually want more money and there's no guarantee their bikes are even as they say they are.
>>
>>2026410
>>QR skewer
>Convenient garbage.
lol
>>
>>2026434
This is the way

When I log into Craigslist it's like Neo entering the matrix
>>
>>2026402
>purple aliexpress parts
You better be fucking trolling
That's some cook brothers shit
>>
>>2026434
correct.
I have gotten and seen many great deals over just a year of looking.
It's somewhat of an addiction for me learning about what bike I am seeing, what parts, era,etc.
>>
>>2026463
if you live in a big city rare high end bikes must show up all the time
>>
>>2026421
>>2026422
>why
legal categories.
>>
>>2026136

What do you do when, for some reason, that tires deinflates during a tour and your a in the middle of nowhere? CO2 to pump it up?
>>
>>2026486
not him but you'd have a pump anyway
and couldn't you just carry a tube incase?
>>
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>>2026480
>legal categories.
I've looked at the legal, apparently EVERYTHING with power, aside from some "scooters" (or anything that go over 28-30mph) are basically "motorcycles" and need license/insurance.

Unless the cops ignore you, which most seem to do.
But It worries me supposedly a cop can pull over any vehicle, and take their vehicle, and give them bill (1-10k$?). If no license/insurance.

Which sounds odd and crazy, and unlikely. Until you figure out how big of a grip insurance companies/police+cops have on government.
Honestly the system seems so messed up, someone is probably gonna tell me I'm "wrong".

Anyways, do you need more then like 2 categories?

https://reallygoodebikes.com/blogs/electric-bike-blog/electric-bike-laws-by-state
>>
>>2026422
>moped is a bicycle-type vehicle
wtf
>>
>>2026509
moped
as in MOtorized PEDal bike
I still use this definition for e-bikes that have cranks that you can pedal.
I do think motorcycles should be a hp rated system of some sort so anything under X hp is a moped.
Leaving scooters as vespa looking things.
>>2026471
It comes in waves. Some bikes sit if they are far away/a long drive, but many nice vintage bikes come up from unknowing sellers and resellers can just buy them+sell the group on ebay and frame too.
I tend to just get stuff that fits me, so 56-63.5cm, and since there are less people who can handle tall bikes I have a fair amount of them now.
>>
>>2026509
>>2026511
Yeah I think main difference is moped - gas ENGINE, NO battery (or not run on it), exhaust pipe

E-bike, no gas engine, BIG BATTERY, ELECTRIC power, no exhaust pipe.

But yeah, I think the categories for some vehicles are so close and similar, I'm not sure what the point of separating them is.
>>
>>2025994
How do you see a rack there?
>>
>>2026486
Pump it, spin and hope it seals. If not, plug and pump. If that fails put tube in.
I carry a cheap tpu tube. Pretty sketchy quality on them but good enough to get me home and oatch the tire
>>
Anyone here use marathon 365s?
>>
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Is it normal and expected for studded tires, after long use, that the studs will break through the tire and cause the tube to puncture? I've had this happen now and also previous years. Pic related from schwalbe marathon winter plus
>>
>>2026575
Also, may this be related to high air pressure? The tire says maximum 6.0 bar and I pump it up to like 5 bar
>>
Is shaft driver incompatible with rear suspension?
>>
>>2026575
Sounds like normal wear and tear. Given enough time the studs will eventually wear a hole through the tire casing underneath.

>>2026579
In theory you could build a shaft drive bike with rear suspension, but it would be heavy and complex compared to using a chain or belt since you'd need a way to account for the variable distance between the cranks and rear hub.
>>
>>2026579
Many motorcycles are shaft drive and have suspension.
Moto guzzi, bmw, 80's japanese bikes, etc.
>>
>>2026579
>>2026592
You could make the rear triangle move concentrically to the bottom bracket. Probably not that crazy to do actually; just have seats for wide-ass bearings machined into the BB shell, and bolt-on keepers of some kind incorporated into the chainstay structure so you can assemble the whole monstrosity. Or splined telescoping sleeves in the shaft.

But I mean, yeah. Too heavy. Shaft drives are a very old meme in the bike world
>>
>>2026612
Motorcycles use 2 female splined couplers and so as the swingarm travels the male ends get closer to smashing heads(heh).
I am with you on the feasibility.
Motorcycles did it since 1970's chains sucked and wore out quickly, well that changed with x ring and o-ring links so most companies went back to chains. Thus only old school brands keep shaft drive.

Oh, and of course shaft drive repairs are..... an order of magnitude higher in cost if something happens. They also tend to be less forgiving, so shifting would be more abrupt, but I suspect e-bike riders are used to that with their dogbox style pinion gearboxes.
>>
>>2026616
>2 female splined couplers
err I mean a long cylinder that has female groove in the inside
sigh
>>
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Anyone know what this was used for?
>>
>>2026629
spare spoke mount?
>>
>>2026629
My guess is random p clip for fenders?
>>
>>2026575
You could put in a tire liner to extend their life
>>
https://www.dickssportinggoods.com/p/mongoose-adult-switchback-comp-mountain-bike-24mona29swtchbckcprf/24mona29swtchbckcprf
Should I go for it?
>>
>>2026664
It's alright according to my weird arkansas bros wolftick.
>>
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>>2026629
some tail lamps are mounted to the seat stay
although most dont use P clips
>>
>>2026664
Looks like a cheap sack of shit. Horrible sub suntour suspension. BSO class drivetrain. It's like bottom end bikesdirect class.
>>
>>2026629
definately fenders stays
thats what the lil hole is for
>>
>>2026664
no dude, pay a bit more to get something with a cassette

it's truely garbage tier spec and likely assembled very badly.
>>
Need some shifting cable for the Shimano 105 groupset.
The shifter design is flawed, it has that shitass 90°bend and after 1 year the shifting cable got frail and teared up (again), had to fish out all the metal strings inside the housing.

Any alternative to those standard Shimano shifter cables? I need something better, more sturdy.
>>
>>2026691
I've had no problems with jagwire
Alternatively man up and get di2
>>
>>2026664
the once proud Mongoose name has been a zombie company for more years now than they were ever reputable. if you can buy their bikes at Walmart = do not buy. (and Dicks, although I believe Dick's also has some better brands)
>>
>>2026691
>e shifter design is flawed
first time I'm hearing about 105 or Shimano cable being anything but reputable.
are you sure this isn't operator error?
>>
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>>2026672
>>2026677
>>2026703
I see. Listed all the Dicks Black Friday stuff to a bike shop guy I know, and he said this was the best, but maybe I could do better still.
What do you suggest I look for in the $300-500 range? Looking to replace pic, got it when I was like 13, served me well, but pink sticky is my current height... thank you for the advice in advance.
>>
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how bad is having one bearing from a different bearing batch in your cup n cone hub
>>
>>2026691
>>2026704
The problem isn't the cable, it's the tight bend in the cable imposed by the shifter. Just make a point of replacing your shift cable once a year (and housing as necessary) and you're good.

>>2026705
In that price range all the new bikes you'll find will have some serious compromises, especially if you buy from a general sporting goods store where you can't assume that a bike was assembled and checked over properly (an REI or a Dick's House of Sports location with a full service shop are exceptions). If possible, visit a local bike shop and see what they have on sale, odds are really good they'll have something good quality in the 4-600 range.

>>2026706
My thought is that if you're repacking a really nice hub it's not worth the risk of accelerated wear from having one bearing that's larger than all the others, but if it's already worn or not a hub you care about keeping for the long term I wouldn't stress about it too much.
>>
>>2026706
Doesn't matter unless you know it's shit already and could feel/see the marks.
>>
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>>2026706
There is a difference of opinion on this lol

From: jbrandt@hpl.hp.com (Jobst Brandt)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: How Bearings are Made
Date: 22 Nov 1999 23:05:20 GMT

Roger (who?) writes:

> Did you know you should only ever use ball bearings from the same
> batch in one side of a race? They're not exactly the same size
> between batches. Never simply replace that naughty one that bounced
> into the corner of the garage - replace the other 10 (or whatever)
> too!

>You are making this up. The tolerance between bearing balls is so small as to be below a small fraction of the elastic compliance of the steel bearing. Besides, the races of bicycle bearings are so rough that a tight bearing feels lumpy. In high precision bearings used on computer disk storage devices, preload causes a smooth viscous drag. Even for these bearings the balls are not identical but are made to a prescribed tolerance. I don't believe I understand what you mean by
the same batch. Each bearing is not made in the same finishing process as the others in a shipment of balls.

Jobst Brandt <jbrandt@hpl.hp.com>

https://yarchive.net/bike/ball_bearings.html
https://yarchive.net/bike/index.html

>It is particularly important that all of the balls in a given race come from the same production run. They are made to tolerances of 3 or 4 millionths of an inch. One batch may be oversize, while the next batch may be several millionths undersize. If some of the balls in a race are that much smaller than others, the smaller ones might just as well not be there, because only the larger ones will be taking the load.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/hubs.html
>>
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>>2026704
its an older gen ST-5800 or something
>>
>>2026753
Nope, I got the Shimano 105-R7000 groupset.

The shifting cables has to go through a 90° bend inside the shifter.
And if you shift a lot, obviously the friction will eventually ruin the cable.
I wonder whether there is some hack to lessen that bend.
>>
>>2026714
this is so weird. I'm inclined to trust Brandt on this one. one, because his logic seems sound, and two, because I'm pretty sure I've done it without thinking about it several times and never had a hub failure or etc.

what Sheldon says has a certain logic to it, but Brandt's explanation takes the tolerances into account. I'm not familiar with the true meaning of "elastic compliance" of steel, but we're talking about the guy who hired Tange to mix up his cromo in a very specific way to make Ritchey Logic tubes. so I very much trust that Brandt knows what he's talking about, and that he would be familiar with the realities of ball bearing manufacture vis-a-vis tolerances and the absence of "batches".
>>
>>2026782
I think they're both somewhat pulling it out of their ass, with Sheldon simply taking a Pascal's wager type position and Brandt saying fuck it.
It's obviously not not fine, but whether or not there's a potential minor disadvantage to mixing is really something which would need some autistic scientific testing to work out.

Brandt's point about batches not existing is a good one but there's still probably something to be said for using balls atleast from the same source, or specifically, not mixing potentially way out cheap chinese balls with others.

Also Sheldon says you should always use fresh balls, because, why not, and that's a good point, but Brandt says often you don't have them to hand and you make do. That's really the crux of it, I often do sub optimal shit just to get a job done. Just because there's a best practice doesn't mean you're always going to follow it.
>>
>>2026691
... is it really such an issue to change your inner cable every 8 months or so as preventative maintenance? It takes like 10 minutes and costs $5.

Yes it's annoying but that's just what you're working with.

The R2000 Claris and R3000 Sora are like that too, i was fixing some the other day and they're fucking annoying but once setup do work quite well, there's a reason it's like that.
>>
>>2026705
Check literally bikesdirect and have your bro do assembly. They should have a suntour fork with tektro hydraulics that should come under 500 with assembly. use that as a baseline.
>>
>>2026788
Yes, I hate bike maintenance. I just want to go out and ride my bike which is hard enough.
This just adds another hurdle, meaning I need energy first to even order stuff, and then go down and fix stuff.

Low energy
>>
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>>2025931
Do you guys think this bike is cool?
Semi thinking about buying it for training, there aren't much hills where I live so a lot of the "mountain bike tracks" are just paths in slight rolling hills. Link here for more info.

Also I'd change those bar ends straight away lol.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/sports/cycling/other-bikes/listing/5038213170?archive=1
>>
looking to buy my first bike
found pic related on sale for 300 euros, only issue I see is that the fork is proprietary. Is it good?
there is also an MBM Dart 29 for 200 euros, should I get that instead? First bike and all that
>>
>>2026877
I think if that's your budget you should go used. There are so many lightly used bikes out there
>>
>>2026877
It's fine. If you want a nicer bike buy used, but wrenching might be required.
Otherwise as a new bike it has many decent parts like the shimano mt200 brakes, 24,34,42 crankset, and aluminum frame.

Make sure you wear all black to be invis at night....
>>
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>>2026881
yeah but the price of a new nv908 is the price of a good used Drag C1 for example
here is a comparasion
I will mostly use it on dirt roads, I got fat and running sucks, cus I cant get above zone 2-3 by running now. My legs give up before that.
>>
Things that await us in the future:
> automatic inflation and deflation of tires and air shock absorbers during driving depending on the road surface.
> adjustable and folding frame geometry, can be made longer-shorter, higher-lower, thus you can get both road, and mountain, and trial, and chopper, and classic geometry
> foldable and adjustable while riding steering wheel geometry, from chopper to mtb in one click
> adjustable while riding steering wheel height with telescopic fork
> adjustable while driving cvt variator
> carbon/aluminum body/coating over stainless/crmo steel for rust resistance
> ISOLATED FROM WATER AND DIRT RIM BRAKES INSIDE THE RIM WHICH NOT LETTING AIR THROUGH OUTSIDE AND WATER INSIDE
>>
>>2026866
No, but the point of SS MTB is to not give a fuck in the first place.
>>
>>2026877
Velomarche nv908.
The wildcard is the fork, at best it's a low end suntour, but could be unacceptable trash, and may depend on production run. I might gamble because it's claiming shimano hydraulic brakes, and if they're going to cheap out, the'd do it there.

>MBM dart 29.
Really weird build decisions here.

>>2026883
There should be better used options near you. Europe has loads and loads of bicycle makers.
>>
>>2026902
>driving
>steering wheel
another cage-brained mtb bro
>>
>>2026866
I have a single speed mtb and it sucks you're always in the wrong gear
Also those barends are cool
>>
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>>2026907
I was looking at used from local manufacturers, I honestly dont know why they are so espensive
the nv908 really seems like a great deal
the fork is SC SUNTOUR XCR 32, I found a website that has some shots of the bike

Think I will cop it, I need to relearn how to drive a bike though...
>>
>>2026866
singlespeeding is quite fun but in my experience it's not great for training, the forced intensity on climbs and spinning out on descents and tailwinds both limit the amount of volume I can accumulate
bar ends are great though
>>
>>2026913
yes, buy that one. You probably live in eastern europe?

That similar bike from a no-name manufacturer bought at a sporting goods store (not bike shop) would be about 499 USD so you're getting a deal but it's not so bad to make me think it's a scam

No matter what bike you buy you'll inevitably want a new/different one next year. Just ride this one as much as possible. Oh and resist the urge to sell your first bike you'll end up paying $1000 usd in your 40s per bike to recreate the bikes of your youth.

Cheers new rider.
>>
>>2026912
all right fair point. I'm a fixed gear rider so I know about never being in the right gear
>>
>>2026922
so basically if the gear is wrong you don't bother working hard because it's just spinning and silly, and in the same situation with a geared bike you would change up to keep the intensity up?
>>
>>2026883
It's not just "fair price" you need to factor, there are always impatient boomers who just want the thing gone
>>
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>>2026925
Yeah, I ordered it earlier, I dont know when it will arrive though, and IF it will arrive

I just want to exercise but I am so tired of running, mainly because its the same environment over and over. I have ran pretty much all of the routes I can near me (talking about ~5km). I live near a lot of farm land, so quite a few long dirt roads alongside them.

I hope I can just pick a road and go down it while listening to some tunes. Exploration type shit, but like going further every time
>>
>>2026933
kek I live in the countryside too and I know that feel too. Option is basically turning left and the end of the driveway, or turning right.
I lived in a city once and it was amazing going different places all the time
>>
>>2026929
its more of an issue on an MTB because a high gear can make you loose traction
like if its muddy where i ride you just have to walk whereas the same hill could just change down and make progress
>>
>>2026930
yeah, your cadence stays the same but you change the gear to always maximize output. on downhills you can go faster than gravity alone can send you, and on climbs you don't have to mash like you're going through molasses, you spin. you don't necessarily go very fast, but the spinny cadence makes you faster than you would be mashing a gear, and without straining your muscles
>>
>>2026922
Single speed is great for teaching standing climbing, efficient descending, and forced cadence adjustment.
Spinning can be taught, just ride fixed gear and go down hills...

Everyone BITD used to train on fixed gear for that reason, you get more stress on your body per time used. The opposite of zone 2.
Thus if someone wants to do zone 2/base building I agree, run an easy geared bike.

Because of all the single speed riding I used to do I can outclimb most people on short steep hills, even at 200lbs. I also always pedal on the descents or rollers to gain momentum which helps a ton as a heavier rider.
You can spin on single speed bikes, just run a slightly lower gear and ride mostly flats.
>>
>>2026946
went for a bit of a ride today in the area I was going to take it and even then I had to lean back to keep the wheel from skidding at times

>>2026957
right, so SS is an excuse to be lazy almost.
>Sorry I can't go faster I'm spinning out

>>2026962
kek I actually have 2 fixed gear bikes and love them which made me think of a SS MTB but I think if I'm going to freewheel I may as well have gears, hill climbing without it being fixed just feels so dead
>>
>>2026967
ss mtb is a different vibe then gears. Since you still have to stand to climb over harder obstacles it helps teach you how to keep traction.
I don't feel dead climbing with a freewheel/gears, but single speed helps me know it won't shift out of gear and still spurs me on to stand since it's either that or I am walking.
I only have 1 mtb that's single speed, and it's used for road training too as an old rigid, so it's fine for it's use case, but I wouldn't do "modern" trails on it with gapped jumps, 2ft+drops or other things.
Fixed mtb just seems like a crash waiting to happen.
>>
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what's the tool to disassemble a sealed bottom bracket?
it's not in bad condition, it just needs a bit of affection and it will be fine, like me
>>
>>2027058
mallet and bench vise. t-bar clamp and sockets to install new bearings
>>
>>2026913
XCR is like the forth worst fork available that isn't complete walmart trash. Still good enough for casual riders, and hucking around dirt mounds. Don't jump off of cliffs with it.

If you ride hard enough to wear it out, or break it, there's the eurpopean equivalent of this:
https://www.srsuntour.us/pages/upgrade-program

Looks like a good choice for you.
>>
>>2026968
Yes fuck fixed mtb. I've basically decided to never mtb on the hardcore stuff, the risk reward isn't there for me, it's probably safer and cheaper to rid a sportsbike and I gave that shit up because it was so deadly
>>
>>2027058
rj the bike guy has videos on this
>>
>>2027088
>>2027109
I saw his video but mine is a continuous piece with a locking octagonal nut
I think I'll visit a pal that has more tools and if that doesn't work I'll take it to a shop to see if they have a compatible bottom bracket
>>
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my first bike just arrived, gonna go to town to pick up some shit for it
I am thinking chain grease and a cheap set of lights, maybe a helmet
what else?


>>2027095
I cant even ride a bike, I aint jumping any time soon
>>
>>2027110
are you planning to replace the cartridges or just ply the seals off and grease them?
You can also use a needle dropper to drip some super thin ptfe oil in there.

I don't know why you wouldn't just buy a new one, is it something obscure?
>>
>>2027112
>I don't know why you wouldn't just buy a new one, is it something obscure?
it's mostly autism, going to the city takes 2 hours one-way so that's more than half a day wasted, and if I can avoid spending 30 bucks right now I'm all for that
>>
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welp, bought the bike home, clearly not brand new, probably a demo bike? VERY little wear
assembled it, just spend 2 and a half hours "riding" it, started from 0, couldnt remember anything from when I was a kid

the fork doesnt have suntour markings on it, and when I get onto the bike it compresses a bit, I turned the preload thing
is it normal for the front fork to compress a bit when you are on the bike, or should it stay with 0 travel?
>>
>>2027114
buy it online?
>$30
less
>>
>>2027111
chain OIL, get 'dry' stuff, its way less messy
a track pump
set of metric allen keys
tub of wheel bearing grease from an autoparts store (every thread and mating surface on a bicycle should be greased and a lot of them are not in the factory, so if you go to adjust stuff you will quite possibly want to grease it first
>>
>>2027132
cheap forks bounce up and down stealing your energy, yes, i dislike them a lot

would definately run it as stiff as possible
>>
>>2027132
It's normal, as the other anon said tighten them up on the preload adjusters, especially if you ride road and do lots of standing climbing.
>>
>>2027132
>is it normal for the front fork to compress a bit when you are on the bike, or should it stay with 0 travel?

You adjust it based on your riding conditions. On a good road, you should have maybe 15 percent deflection from your tires, and very little from your shock, even while going hard, unless you're a gigafatass. Ideally, you want it to take hits only when you're landing.

Time to dial in your fit, change saddle, tires, pedals, grips if needed,
>>
Looking for a decent front light.

>usb rechargable
>2 hour+ charge life
>bright enough to illuminate the road in front
>easy to take off and put on

Any suggestions?
>>
>>2027186
Recently there was a guy on ebay selling cateye ampp-400 and viz-150 tail light sets for like 20 or 30 bucks, which is a pretty great deal. I've been using them for months and no complaints. Should meet your criteria and then some. Lights are such a fucking rabbit hole to read about online don't fall into it
>>
>>2027111
buy chain wax, it's cleaner and more efficient. Rock n Roll Blue is what I use. If you use the oil it came with it will soon turn to black gunk
>>
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>>2027186
I have magicshine 1700 and it’s been great
It uses gopro mounting system that clips in and out easily and the wireless remote is super handy for switching between low/high beam

I strapped mine to my basket with a few zip ties and it sits secure
>>
>>2027196
not very aero
>>
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Can someone explain the design rationale behind this?
>>
>>2027312
This looks like the mid 80's when aero was having it's first surge of popularity.
Running a scott DH bar as the base, and then using foam/rubber padding to lay on when your hands are in the drops.
Well, that what it looks like.
Hands in the drops, head on the pad, add in an aero helmet and it was probably a super low, uncomfortable position.

The Oria tubeset also helps confirm it's that era, while the brake cable going through the top tube was a fancy thing back then as well.

Back in the day people always thought lower was faster since they didn't use wind tunnel testing much, where as now a days they found narrow and high is pretty damn fast too and better for power generation.
>>
>>2027192
>>2027196
Thanks anons
>>
>>2025993
There's no fender, the tyre is super lubed by her pussy juices
>>
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>>2027312
It works in conjunction with the diaper
>>
is there a mtb/gravel shoe that can survive being regularly fully immersed in water?
>>
>>2027348
regular total immersion and you're probably better off with sandals, but if you just want very waterproof shoes those are a niche thing and somewhat expensive but not exactly hard to find if you just google waterproof mtb shoes
>>
>>2027348
Just buy overshoes
>>
Any good road tyres that are above 32mm in width?
>>
>>2027355
nta but I chewed through like 4 pairs of overshoes before shelling out for proper winter shoes, it's so much better to just put on your shoes once, and not have to be constantly adjusting them and being careful how you set your foot down, etc. feet stay warmer too
>>
>>2027357
There's starting to be more options in those sizes especially up to 35, but most tires over 32mm are going to be touring/training tires. Rene Herse tires, GP5000 All Season, Vittoria Corsa Next, Pirelli P Zero are the ones I've heard/expect would be reasonably fast and light. Personally I'm running 40mm Maxxis Refuse on my commuter bike and while they're on the heavy side they do roll nicely.
>>
>>2027360
Found one that I might buy and try.
P ZERO™ Race TLR, 40mm should be just 375g which is fine. Would it fit on wheels that have a max outer rim of 27mm or am I going to have a bad time?
>>
>>2027361
internal width is what matters, but you should be within 2x rim width with a 40mm so it should work fine
>>
>>2027362
Internal is 21mm, might work?
>>
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currently have Schwalbe Nobby Nic 27.5x3 tyres, one has a rip in the sidewall I've been riding around on for a while after repairing but it's starting to fail, I don't ride anything more aggressive than hardpack/gravel/light trails, what tyres should I look at? I don't mind riding fatter tyres like this size
>>
>>2027350
already have sandals for the summer. but was looking for a completely waterproof shoe for the winter
the "waterproof" shoes i've found via google turn out not to be very waterproof at all, red flag is they tout breathability
I don't even mind if water gets inside the shoes as I have waterproof neoprene socks, but I also don't want a $300 pair of shoes to fall apart after a month because i'm submerging them routinely and then get told i'm abusing the shoe
>>
My father in his age can't really be trusted to drive, and he's chaffing at being stuck at home all day. I've been thinking of getting him an ebike as a half measure, and he'd be biking approximately 10 miles/day on the upper end. I was planning on hitting up a local bike shop, and I was wondering if there was anything you guys would say I should be aware of before I head in.
>>
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>>2027164
>>2027165
>>2027168
>>2027174
cheers

just did my first real ride, about 40mins, 7km on a shitty ass road, had to get off when cars came cus didnt feel comfortable with all the potholes everywhere
but I did a terrible mistake, i saw a dirt road adjacent the paved one and decided to hop on it
it was so muddy..... i feel bad for the bike
>>
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are co2 pumps a scam if you're not in a race, in a hurry to fill your flat tire
>>
Are ICANIAN Alpha 38 Pro any good?
>>
Are there any singlespeed bikepackers here? Would you gear your bike differently if you didn't didn't haul your gear around, and if so, by how much?
>>
>>2027366
racing ralphs if you want to stay with schwalbe. Conti race kings (if they come in that size) are the current meta for hardpack tires.
I also like michelin
Basically look for something with smaller knobs, and more continuous knobs if you want speed. Fatter is slower in this case, but you get more grip so you can almost always run faster knob designs when you run larger volume tires, compared to skinny tires.
>>2027420
Just clean it and lube the chain if it's noisy.
>>2027423
I say so since you still need a pump.
OTOH if you don't want to use/carry a pump it could be worthwhile.
>>
>>2027394
we don't really know about ebikes too much ITT.
there's an active ebike thread in the catalog
>>
Any recs on rim brake calipers? I currently have promax ones which seem to be universally regarded as dogshit. I was thinking of either getting cheap ztto type stuff, or getting some discounted campy ones, centaur skeleton?
>>
>>2027423
Scam is a strong word. It's a convenience thing.

If you don't need the convenience of speed/size, why bother with the tradeoff of non-infinite use?
>>
>>2027441
Like dual pivot calipers? If you wanna go balls to the wall buy Ultegra, they're nice.

Tektro dual pivots are also excellent for the price. I can't imagine why you'd NEED anything more asides from swag/luxury

Avoid AliExpress, trust me I'm a chunk shit dude and love saving money but these are your brakes dude you should invest a little.
>>
>>2027444
Yes dual pivot, i should've mentioned that. Ultegra is a bit pricy for what I'm riding, the campy are €50 for both, can't find cheaper tektros either.
>>
I got a pair of wheels with rims that are 40mm in height, (tubes) do I need a 60mm vent or would 40mm vent work?
>>
>>2026714
>>2026706
imo the big one(s) would just wear down to size
>>
What can I expect from cheap carbon wheels?
>>
>>2027443
this
It's so much faster and easier, but if you fuck something up or get another flat, you have to use another cartridge.
>>
>>2027446
vent?
I think you mean valve? just announce that you're ESL and admit you don't know the right word instead of making us figure out your puzzles. jesus, we're already giving you free advice, don't make it any harder on us.
anyway without any special knowledge it seems obvious that the valve needs to be longer than the depth of the rim. you can run valves that are longer than you need without any penalty other than looks. I'm doing it on two bikes, currently
>>
>>2027448
yeah, I've read that bearings wear into a very slight spheroidal shape, all matching the specific bearing race. which they said was a reason to not put an odd one in, but doesn't that go against the thesis? wouldn't the new one just wear into the correct shape eventually? this was in the Bicycling Magazine repair guide back in the 90s, though.
I really don't think it matters anyway, because if it was harmful there would be a ton of bearing failures because of people unwittingly putting one (or more) odd ones in and it just doesn't happen all that often.
>>
My 105 discs fucking SQUEEL as soon as they get wet, is there anything I can do about this besides changing breaking pads or something?
>>
>>2027470
are the pads/rotors contaminated? were they bedded in correctly? are the mounting surfaces faced square to help eliminate vibrations?
>>
>>2027470
It's a feature, not a bug.
Or maybe try organic pads.
>>
>>2027470
They might be contaminated if it's super loud, but squealing in the wet is not unusual for discs.
>>
>>2027470
I'll tell you the secret if you learn the difference between breaks and brakes.
>>
Is this good enough for basic wheel truing at home?
https://www.bike-discount.de/en/katana-ts-1-truing-stand
If not, what should I get? Budget is around 150€.
I'd rather avoid DIY methods like zip ties.
>>
>>2027504
It's fine. If you want to go really cheap just use a zip tie on your frame. Goals should be even tension, but tight enough that it doesn't keep shifting frequently on regular rides.
Remember you can loosen one side and tighten the other, especially when the drive side is really tight and it needs to go that way.
>>
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>>2027505
Do I need this thing as well or can I check the tension by hand?
>>
>>2027506
By hand is fine, listen to the note and you only need it close.
You can also do the squeeze test for an easy check too.
Oh, and do realize after you true the wheel the spokes might settle, and might need a little extra truing after.
>>
Planning to get a budget foldable tricycle(balance issues) as a daily driver.

I was looking at Viribus, Kent, Sophomore brands.
>>
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>>2027506
truing stand without a meter is peak retardo
>>
>>2027511
It should be Mophoto, not sophomore
>>
>>2027445
I'm sure the campus will do it for you, then. Bonus swag points too
>>
>>2027506
squeeze the spokes together on a known good wheel with the same spoke count (i.e., the other wheel on your bike, as long as it's reputable) to feel what the correct tension is, then compare to your work. that's all I've ever done and my truing stays true.
those meters are a recent invention. the old manual that I learned out of doesn't even mention they exist because presumably they didn't back then, and people have been truing wheels for like 200 years or more



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