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File: trent_parke_bus.png (531 KB, 1107x666)
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Heavy machinery / big vehicles edition

previous thread:
>>4363901

/fgt/ daily reminder (courtesy by anon): one stop per decade is (generally) bullshit
>negative film ages better than positive
>black and white better than color
>slow films better than fast
>storage conditions (dry/cool) matter more than years
>Negative film is shot 1 or 2 stops overexposed and then PULLED in development so that you build more density in the exposure and develop less such that the fog is limited
>slide/positive film is shot at box speed or overexposed and pulled.
>if you home develop you can also use benzotriazole as a restrainer for the the first developer in E6 process


Useful links
>[massive dev chart] gives times for home film development
https://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php
>[film dev] shows results of development regimes
https://filmdev.org/
>[news & community links]
35mmc.com
casualphotophile.com
kosmofoto.com
emulsive.org
japancamerahunter.com

>thread question:
what kind of threads do you usually lurk?
[meta]
>>
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>>4367820
Monke

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>>
>>4367820
Clive is so pathetic he's now making fake film threads. We see right through it. Its not a pancake if your camera body is so large. Do you do anything that isnt seething at Sony? Everyone point and laugh at this pathetic seething obsessed sonyhater.
>>
>>4367823
I heard through the grapevine that he recently started working at IHOP because he is obsessed with pancakes. Apparently he got so mad at 4chan that he burnt a large batch of pancakes and almost got fired.
>>
>Negative film is shot 1 or 2 stops overexposed and then PULLED in development so that you build more density in the exposure and develop less such that the fog is limited

Is this valid for both BW and C film?
>>
>>4367827
yes, you can do it with color and black and white film
but you can just expose properly at box speed and it'll be fine
overexpose 1 or 2 stops and then pull is literally the same as treating your film 1 or 2 iso stops slower
which can be either fine or stupid depending on what and how you're shooting
Don't overthink, just shoot at box speed and leave experimentations for later if they make sense to you
>>
>>4367827
No need to worry about it if you are scanning film. It will generally make your film a little finer grained, and a little lower contrast if you like that.
>>
Share your dream film camera if you want.
>>
>>4367820
I hate film so much you wouldn't believe.
>>
>>4367848
Hassy. A relative had one a long while back, and when I saw the pictures that thing took, I fell in love immediately.
>>
>>4367852
there are currently 150 other active threads on /p/, buddy
knock yourself out
>>
>>4367853
An attainable dream camera! :D Any model you would like in specific?
>>
File: KARSKG2SUM2430.jpg (3.63 MB, 1333x2000)
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Go go nophoto rangers!

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>>
>>4367867
Why is your picture so mushy?
>>
>>4367855
Probably a C or a C/M. No frills, and (marginally) less expensive than one of the later models. The changeable focusing screen isn't really a dealmaker, so I'll grab the first one within my budget that isn't a mechanical writeoff.
>>
>>4367827
>>4367829
What if I want to do the opposite? I see r*dditors saying they shoot their portra 400 at 1600, is it really as simple as shooting it like 1600 and asking my lab to push it 2 stops? Surely I'm retarded and missing something
>>
>>4367873
With portra you don't need to ask them to push the film. It has huge upwards latitude. Pushing/pulling film combined with altered development is only important when you want to control contrast(not really important when scanning) or you're doing some crazy bullshit like shooting tmax 100 at 1 iso.
>>
>>4367848
X-700 but with 1/2000 and 1/4000 shutter speeds added
>>
>>4366136
alright based I got the other flash unit I have working, this combined with a tripod means I am ready to poorly photograph some BUGS and FLOWERS
>>
>>4367888
Good luck. Proper macro without focus stacking is an exercise in patience and autism. I wish you the best of luck. Ask questions and I/others may be able to help.

I have been taking a small break from photography, but I have a growing/vining plant in my 8x10 macro set up rn.
I think I'm going to take 3 pictures over the span of a few days as the plant grows and extends out its vines. It will, at the very least be a little creative, and may even look cool if I have the 3 images hung on the wall next to each other. You'll probably see it eventually.
>>
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>>4367892
Just "scanned" some "photos". Was my first roll of film and I developed it myself at home, amazon mystery film. Had been through an airport scanner before being shot too. Probably not the clearest results but I'm fairly happy with how it turned out.

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>>
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>>4367898
Haven't a clue in the slightest whether or not I exposed them correctly with the camera I used to scan them or if the colours are what they should be with the negadoctor in darktable, but hey, it's all part of the process right? Anyone got tips for at home scanning with a camera?

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>>
>>4367901
They'd look way shittier if you fucked the exposure.
>>
>>4367908
I just realized they're sort of shit resolution because I edited the .ori files instead of the pixel shift raws. Was supposed to be 50mp, but cropped down a bit because the macro lens / scanning attachment combo I use isn't entirely optimal. Doesn't really matter though cus I could post the high res ones on here anyway.
>>
>>4367919
I didn't mean to imply they looked shitty. I think they look fine. I meant to say that If your exposure was really off they would look bad and be hard to salvage. You would know if you fucked up.
>>
>>4367924
Yeah I guess even if they were wrong I could re-do them. The thing that I dont understand is that I get the impression that I'm losing detail or getting chroma noise in the shadows (once the negative filter has been applied) would that mean I need to underexpose the scans? I feel like I would lose detail doing that. I could also just be totally wrong and I'm not getting any detail loss because of the scanning. No clue tbqhwyf
>>
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>>4367869
This enough for you, lil' buddy?

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>>
>>4367848
Xpan, but it costs 5000 bucks and if it brakes it's a paperweight
so instead I will import Pentax 6x7 from japs on use a panoramic adapter for 35mm film
>>
>>4368022
No. You did not answer my question. Do you have difficulty with reading comprehension?
>>
File: KARSKG2SUM2430 (2).jpg (3.34 MB, 1333x2000)
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>>4368034
Yes no
maybe
ok biby

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>>
>>4367848
A rolleiflex to larp as vivian maier
>>
>>4368039
A real shiesty cunt you are, yeah.
>>
>>4367848
Right now it’s a Nikon F4 with the MB-21 battery pack. Inshallah I shall acquire one as soon as I have the funds.
>>
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>>4367848
it is not currently in my possession but I am hoping of changing that very soon
>>
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>>4367820

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>>
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>>4367820
hp5 pushed 5 stops in caffenol

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>>4368100
>>
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>>4368101

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cloth

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>>
>>4368100
How thin are the negs?
>>
File: KARSKG2SUM2431.jpg (2.62 MB, 1333x2000)
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>>4368050
Just taking the piss my man. I kinda stopped taking this hobby seriously years ago. And this is an Indonesian water buffalo husbandry website anyway.

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>>
>>4368138
Fair enough, m8. Just taking the piss yah. That rock in the middle looks like a giant otter btw.
>>
File: IMG_0847.jpg (396 KB, 1280x849)
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Reposting these two

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>>
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>>
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Third one as a bonus

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>>
I'm wondering if I should crop them a bit. How much croping do you guys usually do? how much does it count as cheating?
>>
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>>4368157
the goal is to get a good shot, you're not in a competition, there's no cheating
I almost never crop because I don't like it, but when I occasionally do I keep the original proportions, though

Anyway, posting some shots from the last rolls

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>>
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>>4368158
another one from this big boy

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>>
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>>4368159
I wish the lights weren't on

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>>
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>>4368160
took this photo 2 and a half months ago
got the guy's contact info 'cause he wanted to see how it turned out
he was pretty happy about it
I loved the colours and the outfit, and my plan to make it pop with the flash worked out as intended

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>>
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>>4368162
now to the homedeveloped ones

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>>
>>4368158
I have this weird block about doing as much incamera as possible. I feel like a fraud if I edit too much unless the project is specifically about that, that's why I was hesitant to crop my photos.
>>4368162
fun pop but you could've asked him to pose differently. Everything looks fun in your photo besides the subject (outfit and colours are cool tho). Did you tell him how to pose?
>>
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>>4368165
I like the very contrasty combo of pushed double-x and Rodinal, but it needs uniform light to work

>>4368167
thanks
well I told him I liked his outfit and asked him if I could take a photo
he was a very outgoing guy and said "what if you shoot me like I'm waiting for the bus?" and we went with it
I like the contrast between his very chic style and the mundane setting of waiting for the bus

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>>
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>>4368170
lots of contrast, not much dynamic range
so it's something to have in mind

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>>
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>>
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>>4368109
pretty thin but some frames came out alright
>>
>>4368170
hmm I see. He's not a very good actor then haha.
Anyways, liking your dump.
Valeu irmao tamo juntos
>>
>>4368174
nice big boy, Mexico anon
also what film and process?
and what camera/lens, just out of curiosity?
it has the same look as the photos I posted above
I used kodak double-x pushed to 800 and Rodinal with a Rollei 35
>>4368182
suddenly caralho
kkkk massa, que bom que curtiu
>>
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>>4368183
I wanted to take a photo inside but they were only letting childs inside lel

Orwo UN54 at box speed on Rodinal, using an Helios 103.

So kind of makes sense, both are cinema film so similar look I guess.

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>>
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>>4368187
>give camera to kid
>ei niño, I'll give you 5 pesos if you get inside and press this little button
I like how the whites are this immaculate white, and the blacks are absolute blacks
btw in this photo of yours it seems like the black point is set a bit weirdly and it's a washed gray
>>4368198
what an interesting place
nice photo
>>
>>4368108
I wouldn't have posted this picture when I realised it was out of focus.
>>4368022
is this half frame?
>>4368070
These are really nice to use, and that kit 55mm is very sharp too. The ST705W is also good if you can only find the 801 for drug money

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>>
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>>4368207
>what an interesting place
>nice photo
thanks. it's from this cemetery https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skogskyrkog%C3%A5rden
>>
>>4368160
i like this
>>
>>4368162
what film stock is this
>>
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>>4368298
thanks, man
stood out there for some 5min with a tripod and a giant ass RB67 waiting for runners to stop getting into my shot for 8 full seconds
>>4368299
it's Ektar

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>>
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>>4368209
>is this half frame?
Konica VX200 expired in 1998. It actually looks much better than I thought it would. I shot some C41 Agfa film that expired in 2000 and it looked like absolute trash.

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Foma's given me such weird results

>one time it works perfect
>next time it looks underexposed by like 4 stops
>next time (this time) the lab's machine scratched it to shit

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>>4368339
looks kinda dope tho
>>
Is this news to anyone else?

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>>4368660
What
I guess this is for... orthochromatic sheet film right?
>>
>>4368664
Ortho can already be developed under safelight, no?
>>
>>4368664
Apparently it works on pan film!
>>
has anyone shot foma retropan or washi F x ray film before? any tips? i always (purposefully) overexpose my photos a lot so this shouldnt be a problem, as ive heard retropan is more like 200 speed
>>
>>4367854
No, I don't think I will. Film is dead. It needs to be reminded.
>>
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>>4368393
thx
I need to shoot more scenes with people. Been snapshitting random buildings and trees for too long

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>>4368339
luv foamer
>>
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Sometimes I shoot Ektar

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hey bros any recommendations for a rangefinder camera with interchangeable lenses that's not a Leica, voit, or bessa (unless they're cheap)
>>
>>4368967
Minolta CLE
>>
Going to Japan in a few weeks, is there still a good second hand shop for film cameras? Or everything good is gone and I would have better luck ordering from ebay
>>
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>>4367901
> Anyone got tips for at home scanning
Buy a color chart, shoot one frame in daylight and one frame in artificial per roll (just once per each stock is good enough for start).
Doesn't need to be something fancy and expensive, just something you can have at hand and compare side by side with your scan.
>with a camera?
Don't.
>>
>>4368100
>>4368101
>>4368102
Neat, would love to see them scanned with not a potato.
Why are your thumbnails sideways kek
>>
>>4369234
Which scanner would you recommend?
>>
>>4369234
>Don't.
Not him but why are you against scanning with a camera?
>>
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>>4368802
>retropan
Yeah, it's pretty nice for a Foma. This is at 250 speed and 1 hour stand in 1+100 rodinal.
I also had good results shooting at 200 and developing in HC-110 B for 8.5 minutes. More contrasty though (unsurprisingly), and being Foma the negs are always pretty thin no matter what you do.
I have the Retropan developer kit but haven't used it yet, waiting for my Yashica to come back from CLA.
>>
>>4369247
here we go again
>>
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>>4368802
>>4369248
And here's the ISO 200 / HC-110 B 8.5 min frame
>>
>>4369251
aahhhh it burns!!
>>
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Bought this A-1 untested for 65 bucks and happy to say, it works! Just needed a pin in the battery compartment and to scrape off the sulfate.

Looks really nice. Came with a tote and a canon 199A flash. Sync cable (so I am definitely using this in studio) and the 50/1.8 FD
>>
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>>4369274
For 15 bucks more also got this Petri 28, leather case is rotten out, film door won't open and the focus ring won't twist, any ideas on what to do? Thinking on getting it onto a repair shop. But this thing is so worthless idk if whatever labour the guy will want to charge is gonna be worth it.

I like that it looks like a Leica if you squint your eyes, that and the leaf shutter!
>>
>>4368957
It's possible to force the disgusting cyan out of ektar by being a massive slut in the channel mixer when converting your raw scans.

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>>4369282
Why is fgt so much better than the mft general?
>>
>>4369282
Bro you just made the sky (and everything else along with it) a diffent shade of green.
Admittedly it's a pretty cool tone (figuratively and literally), but it's clearly stylized and has limited usefulnes outside of certain subjects.
The Jesus Saves shot, while looking worse overall, looks much more naturally balanced, even with the cyan sky.
>>
>>4369282
compair the pare

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>>4369292
>>4368957
damn that's a lot of cyan, why do people like ektar?
>>
>>4369291
the point was being made in two parts, sorry for confusion
>>4369284
you like this photo?
this one is straight to the bin, I only shared because it has sky in it
>>
>>4369296
No I just used your post to post my own post and forgot to delete your post reply. Enjoy the you, bud.
>>
>>4369293
>why do people like ektar
because there's no other new, sharp, neg film available.
>and the pink works ok for portraits
we live in the end times.
My freezer stock of Superia 100 is down to less than half :'(

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>>4369303
How come some people develop Portra 400 to look exactly like this?
>>
>>4369277
>>>4369274 #
>For 15 bucks more also got this Petri 28, >leather case is rotten out
>film door won't open
>and the focus ring won't twist
>any ideas on what to do?
yes, paint it green and throw it in the bushes lmao
>>
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>>4369248
>>4369251
Interesting thanks. I want to try get a ton of halations on it, so I may try over exposing it a ton. I'm still clueless as to whether pushing film helps in that regards or not.
>>
Someone who has zero knowledge about photography asked me how I knew the picture I was taking would turn out how I wanted all the way through to a print.

It was a fun challenge that tested my technical knowledge. She just stared at me blankly as I handwaved and attempted to explain film photography in 30 seconds.
>>
>go to a park this evening
>has some good views of the city and also some interesting architecture
>taking pics, have my whole tripod and cable setup
>security guys walk up
>they tell me they're supposed to tell people not to take pictures of the buildings because reasons
>eh whatever, not trying to make a fuss
>one of them starts talking to me about how he used to do night photography, explains some techniques
>"you gotta get some black cardboard, then you can release the shutter with the lens still covered, and once the vibration has settled you can move the cardboard to expose the image and just release the shutter when its done"
>actually a pretty clever trick to get an extra bit of sharpness at night
>tells me I should go to a different park that has a view of the freeway, and that's where I can really learn night photography
>tells me I shouldn't bother with using higher speed films for night shots, and stick to 100 or 200 at the most no matter what
>as he's walking away apologizes for going on about stuff, but he just "fell in love with night photography a long time ago..."
thank you boomer security guard for your advice, I hope one day when I'm old I can share cool tricks with people
>>
>>4369342
I can't tell if I would like this with more or less bokeh.
right now it's not good
>>
>>4369388
Did he tell you about reciprocity failure?
t. not quite a boomer
>>
Rodinal kings, should I try using high concentration rodinal as a replacement for amidol to attempt a water-bath process? Amidol and rodinal are both compensating developers, so it should work...

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>>4369411
I ain't reading all that nigga
>>
>>4369413
-_- you must not be a rodinal king.


Desensitize film
Saturate film in rodinal
Place in water
Watch film developing
If it doesn't develop enough repeat process

Produces excellent separation between shadows, mids, and highlights because that's how compensating developers work.
>>
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>>4369343
I wouldn't say halation is one of Retropan's characteristics. It does have some of this "dreamy" softness that they advertise, but it's more like a subtle soft filter all over, rather than halation from highlights.
The two stocks that do this the most for me are Polypan F (pic related) and Kodak Academy 200, but both have been dead for 10+ years, and only came in 35mm and not 120.
>>
>>4369343
Also interesting review I just found, haven't tried this method before, it sounds very counterintuitive but I'm tempted.
>>
>>4367820
Canon F1n or New F1? Wanting to upgrade but I don't know which to get. I like that the F1n is fully mechanical and I like the finder options on it better, but I like the look of the new F1 more, and I suppose from an objective standpoint it probably is better. What do we think bros?
>>
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>Buy a leica they said, they're super reliable they said
fuck you /p/. the autofocus fucking sucks too
>>
>>4369443
>using autofocus
>on a Leica no less
lol
lmao even
I never heard anyone say they are reliable.
In fact, I went to a camera shop the other day and what do I find? Some guy wanting to get his broken Leica repaired. They asked for $500 to fix its sticky shutter. I think there were other things wrong with it too. In contrast, all the used 35mm cameras I got off ebay work flawlessly.
>>
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>>4369443
Conversely, I've never heard anyone claim that an A series canon is reliably and yet I own a heap of them and I've never had any issues other than perished light seals.

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>>4369443
Well, did you buy it brand new or get it second hand? If new: lmao. If used: should have just bought a real camera. Like buying a used merc and being surprised it was treated like shit and needs a rebuild
>>
>>4369394
Thanks.
>>
I'm new to 35mm from a long time in digital and I'm going to ask a retarded question because I have no frame of reference - what should my expectation be for sharpness on 35mm if it's exposed, focused, developed and scanned properly? If I scan 200 or 400 speed film on my digital camera, and look in Photoshop, 100% zoom starts to break down but 50% zoom looks decently sharp - is that about the ballpark of 35mm negatives or is that a sign that I have something in my workflow I'm not doing properly?
>>
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>>4369470
Depends on the film, the lens, and other factors. For example pic rel was taken on Gold 200 with an old Tamron 300mm telephoto and so is soft as shit.
>>
>>4369470
Use common print sizes as your reference for viewing your image. Like 8x10 and 11x14 to get a realistic look at your image as if it was a 40 inch print.

Unless you are working at optimizing your image quality, or printing giant prints there is no real point to picklepeep your scan.
>>
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>>4369474
Contrariwise, this one was taken on CS 400D with a much nicer 50mm prime and it's a lot sharper.

However as
>>4369475
says pixel peeping is retarded and gay.
>>
>>4369474
>>4369476
>>4369475
Thanks - gives me a reference which I was absent. For what it's worth I'm looking at HP5 in Rodinal.
>>
>>4369470
If you are using normal person grainy film, compare to the same photo shot on a nikon d700.

If you are using great professional film like portra 160, ektar 100, or e100 ektachrome, compare to the same photo shot on a nikon d750.
>>
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>>4369477
This one was HP5+ in XTOL, but it's still gonna be a bit soft because I'm shooting with the 300mm Tamron.
>>
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>>4369503
And a similar scene at the same race, same lens and developer, on Kodak Tri-X 400. I'm a big fan of the Tri-X and XTOL 1+1 combo.
>>
>>4369476
Pixel peeping is for digital because sometimes computer screens, especially low res windows shitboxes and 10 year old non-retina macs, hide flaws that will show up in prints like moire, or generate entirely new ones depending on the preview algorithm.

If you don't have a bayer array you don't need to pixel peep. And on film if you're not shooting pro stock or larger formats, you're not able to crop for free zoom (without carrying bazookas or lens bags) anyways, because it looks like shit.
>>
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>>4369477
HP5 stock with yellow filter
developed with HC110
from Rodinal expect little bit more contrast and grain, and it would be best if you shoot it at native speed or even pull it if you have enough light
Rodinal is not good for pushing

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>>
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>>4369477
>>4369517
and here is Foma400 shot at 320 which is already very grainy, developed in Rodinal

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>>
>>4369517
I didn't used to like HP5 until I slapped a yellow filter on it. Love the look now.
>>
>>4369517
>Rodinal is not good for pushing
It is, you just gotta know what to expect from it
>>
>>4369517
>Rodinal is not good for pushing
correct, it's the best for pushing
>>
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>>4367820
I’m about to run out of my cheap consumer film and am looking to finally get my hands on some higher quality, more expensive stuff. Between Ektachrome, Ektar, or Portra, which do you guys prefer? I love the look of slide film but hear nothing but praise for Ektar and Portra.
>>
>>4369555
Ektar has more saturated colors and makes great landscape photos, it leaves skin with a red shade tho
Portra is less saturated and gives pastel colors but makes portraits look good, hence Portra

both are really fine grained

Pro Image 100 is kinda like the two combined but with a bigger grain, but also really cheap and no one seems to know about it
>>
>>4369503
>>4369504
>>4369517
>>4369519
>>4369519
Thanks anon, much obliged
>>
>>4369555
Ektachrome
nothing beats slide, it's not even comparable
but between color films, both ektar and portra will be good
portra is expensive and not much different from gold
gold obviously has those warm tones, but you can change it by sliding one single bar when editing
portra is more desaturated which can be achieved with gold in the same manner
portra's grains are smaller, though, but there's not much difference despite what faggots say
anyway, slide is better than anything else, and use ektar for landscapes or anything with pungent primary colours, and portra for people
also ektar is beautiful for black people's skin
p.s.: don't glorify film, it's just a support for your photography
focus on making good photos
it's like buying a smooth pen to write
it sure is better, but your text being shit or good is on you
>>
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don't mind me, still posting pictures of gear instead of actual pictures

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>>
>>4369555
Vison 3 don't be a sucker
>>
>>4369607
Based.
>>
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>>4369607
>>
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>>4369610
My bad didn't mean to link
>>
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>>4369610
Beautiful colors and shadows
>>
What are some good cameras with an M42 mount?
Currently I am contemplating on getting either an ST801 (or previous model) or a Bessaflex.
>>
>>4369680
Pentax Spotmatic definitely, and it's fully mechanical
I bought it recently for that purpose of using cool cheap lens like Carl Zeiss Jena or Helios
will report when I will get it
>>
>>4369680
They're all fine. Even Sears, Vivitar, rushit etc.
ST801 is not exactly m42 though, it has a weird extra lock pin and some kind of meter coupling.
>>
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back from the repair shop
got the curtains changed and the FM2 is like new again
i'm never using the motordrive again tho

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>>4369236
i don't know its something about my scanner sometimes they end up sideways or upside down i have no idea how to fix it
>>
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>>4369340
Turns out it all works, viewfinder looks like shit but it's manageable, just finished a roll on the canon
>>
>>4369800
the Canon is good, I was talking about the Petri
>>
>>4369800
just get the ground glass cleaned or replaced, shouldn't be too expensive
maybe you can even do it yourself
I fucking hate dirt in my viewfinder
all my SLRs are super clean and neat, all 2 of them
>>
>>4369768
What happened? I have a FM2 with those shutters and I was wondering the the motor drive was worth it
>>
>>4369250
>Person asks for help
>Gets vague and unhelpful reply in return.

Never cha- actually do change /pee/.
>>
>>4369443

Same problem for me but with the contax g2. Supposedly the goat film camera.
Tiny shit view finder, unreliable auto focus, and eventually shutter broke and costs so much to fix I just gave up on it.
Literally one of the worst film cameras I’ve used.
>>
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>>
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Really kinda digging CS50D

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>>
>>4369667
Thanks!
>>
Any film related book reccomendations frens?
>>
>>4369938
Luck issue
>>
Fighting the urge to buy a digital point and shoot for daily use my fellow fags, shooting film is fast but sending off for processing is slowwww
>>
>>4369987
I love my Canon G12
Has gotten expensive for some reason, maybe someone on tiktok hyped it up
>>
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of fomapan im a fomafan hehe
>>
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le flash coverage test

>>4369987
here are some compacts i've used
>nikon a - great form factor for apsc, good iq, decent ergos, dreadful shutter lag precludes quick street/event shooting
>canon s95 - feels flimsy, truly pocketable, kinda slow operation but cheap enough you can treat it as almost disposable. couldn't really tell it was ccd vs cmos but you know from rpt that it can certainly deliver on iq
>nikon p330 - weak, squeaky build, pictures looked pretty decent. didn't test thoroughly because i got a broken copy. same form factor as s95
>fuji xq1 - solid build, snappy operation, solid jpegs, suffers the fuji tax. also same sizes as s95
>pentax optio s4 - early gen point and shoot with all of the drawbacks. widest on the zoom is 35mm equivalent, charmingly coarse iq, ovf is microscopic but nice to have in some situations. absolutely tiny body you can take anywhere, low capacity battery, terrible ui

i certainly recommend a small simple digital camera to complement film gear. if nothing else, it makes a fine light meter

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>>
When you are developing film, does the way that you wind it on the reel make a difference during development (winding with the curl vs winding against)? I'm going to assume that it doesn't since it doesn't change that the entire film is submerged in chemicals, but it is just easier and safer to do it with the curl.
>>
>>4370142
I've always just done it with the curl because it's easier. I did once try winding a roll of 120 against the curl, and didn't notice any difference in development. It was a pain in the ass though so I haven't done it since.
>>
>>4370142
Wind with the curl. Winding against the curl is retarded:
>the emulsion side will be pushing against the groove wall
>if there's as much as a speck of moisture on the reel, it will make the film stuck
>the film edge will get uneven development in places, this looks like shit and can throw some scanners off when pulling film in
>when taking the film out of the reel the emulsion is more likely to get damaged
Literally not a single reason for doing it.
>>
>>4368309
You the brazilian dude? What flash do you use on that RB, glad to see you're still here
>>
>>4369923
the motordrive doesn't care if something's not perfectly aligned or lubricated, if something gets in the way it will force it
if you're advancing by hand you can feel if something's not moving as expected, with the motordrive it will just go regardless, which is how my curtains got completely fucked
>>
>>4370152
yep, Brazilian anon here
>glad to see you're still here
thanks, anon, that's good to hear (:
I'm using a Nikon SB-22 Speedlight
I wanted to make the guy pop out and get the background as dark as possible, so I shot it at 1/400" or 1/250"
>>
>go to 4 pawn shops
>not one single SR or OM mount lens
fug
>>
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>>4370258
waste of film
>>
>>4368997
lol
>>
>>4370142
>winding with the curl
>>4370143
>>4370148
Another thing worth noting is that bending the film too far against its "set" it's possible to crease the film, which gives you those little white crescents on your negs, and also you can crack the emulsion if the film is really cooked which gives you tiny hairline cracks showing up in the dev.
Just don't fight it.
>>
The one annoying thing about shooting 620 color or slides is having to rewind them back onto 120 spools because cunts at the lab would not return your 620 ones.
I wish I would only have to do it once per roll like the b&w ones I develop myself, but color 6x9s, especially slides, are better then sex.
>in b4 develop yourself
Nah, I tried C41 before, too much hassle, to unpredictable results, not enough volume to justify. E6 I imagine is even more picky.
>>
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I broke my Sekonic lightmeter, the 308 one this year.
I hate to use my phone to meter the light...
So i found 2 options online 2nd hand
>Minolta Auto Meter III 60€
>Seconic L308s 150€
Does anyone have experience with the Minolta one ??
>>
>>4370358
I have the Minolta auto meter iv and for daytime ambient use on medium format and 35mm I'm pretty happy with it. Obviously it doesn't have spot functionality, and the f numbers don't go high enough to be very useful with my 4x5. For the most part I find myself using my phone because I do a lot of night work and the built-in reciprocity failure compensation that the app I'm using has has really spoiled me.
>>
>>4370372
>built-in reciprocity failure compensation
what app
>>
>>4370372
If you have a view camera you may want to consider investing in a spot meter.
>>
>>4370404
It's just called "Lightmeter"
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vodemn.lightmeter
I've tried quite a few of them and I like this one the best. You have to buy the full version to get the reciprocity failure calculator, but it's worth it.

>>4370405
It's on the list. For now the app has a spot metering mode that does okay-ish.

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>>4370410
>You have to buy the full version to get the reciprocity failure calculator, but it's worth it.
Does it have reciprocity data per film stock, or just one general formula? Because they can get wildly from stock to stock, so if it's the latter then it's kind of bullshit
>>
>>4370259
you don't waste any that's for sure
>>
>>4370451
Prove it.
>>
>>4370372
Thx bro will consider the minolta one !
I have a minolta spotmeter but god knows iam too retarded to understand it lol
Luckily i don't shoot LF though.
>>
>>4370422
By film stock. You select the film you're using, select what iso you're shooting at, and it does the rest automatically.

>>4370492
Which spot meter do you have? The F?
>>
>>4370529
I have the F yes with the flash metering option.
They're built nicely imo.
Iam just to autistic to learn this shit.
>spot meter a neutral area that is perfectly midtone
>well let's give it a +1 or 2+ stop down
>fuck it it's too confusing
I should take out my digi camera and the spotmeter and do some guessing games until i get it
>>
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>>4370533
Noooooo. You spot meter the darkest area you still want information then decrease exposure by 2 stops. You should also look at mids and highlights to get a feel for your scenes contrast and adjust if necessary.
>>
>>4370533
>>4370590
just meter for the subject, specifically the midtones of the subject, why do you gotta make stuff way more complicated than they should be?
>>
>>4370358
>>4370533
>>4370590
>>4370595
just f8 and be there, why are you so autistic
>>
>>4370597
>>4370595
Just use an incident meter if you're going to be a lazy asshole.
You expose film for the shadows and develop for the highlights.
>>
>>4370600
>metering
I have eyes, so sunny 16.
>>
>>4370600
>You expose film for the shadows and develop for the highlights
you're just parroting stuff at this point
that's not being lazy, that is metering correctly so that your subject aka the important thing you're shooting is properly exposed, fucking moron
>>
>>4370610
You sound remarkably stupid, and I am almost certain that you have only ever scanned film.

Film needs enough light(exposure) or else you get nothing.

If your negative is too dense(over developed highlights) you also get nothing useable.

If your negative is too contrasty you usually get a shit result, which is why you take reading at shadows, mids and highlights, so you can understand what your contrast range and possibly do push/pull development. Please learn a little more next time. A good portrait will not be completely flat, but have a full range of tones from pure black to white, you dunning krueger ass neophyte.
>>
>>4370628
autism.

For a portrait its simple.

f 1.8
shutter speed 1000

wala
>>
>>4370649
Sounds like digital may be more up your alley. :)
>>
>>4370628
orrrrr
you just meter for subject midtones because you know it'll be properly exposed then and you'd probably end up with the same exposure settings anyways
>>
>>4370681
If you understand the contrast range of your scene and expose/develop for that instead your midtones will OBVIOUSLY be properly exposed, and you get added benefit of greater control over film density.
>>
>>4370628
>you dunning krueger ass neophyte.
spelling Dunning Kruger wrong is the cherry on top
>lol
>lmao even
I've been shooting for over a decade and getting proper exposures everytime, cuck
Learn how to meter
>>
>>4370687
You don't need to get "proper" exposures if all you do is scan your film.

Tens years of snapshits means nothing to anyone.
>>
>>4370691
I said
>meter for midtones of your subject
from that you inferred that
>I only scan my negatives
>I've never enlarged my photos
>I'm a neophyte
>I only take snapshits
if that's not schizophrenia I don't know what it
p.s. you're wrong about every single point you tried to make too lol
>>
>>4370751
Lol. You are stupid. Nothing was inferred. It came directly from your own words, and I explained why, unlike you. Go ahead. Make yourself sound even stupider. It's funny.
>>
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Hi anons,
I'll be travelling somewhere in a week and a half. I shoot digital but want to give film a shot. Will I be well served with a cheap disposable/point and shoot? Driving constraint for me is weight since my dslr setup already weighs three pounds, and I'll be hiking up mountains and long distances so carrying a second block of metal is out of the question.

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>>
>>4370757
please enlighten me on how you "know" that
>I only scan my negatives
which is not true
>I've never enlarged my photos
which I do regularly
>I'm a neophyte
I've been shooting film for over a decade
>I only take snapshits
I don't
so please, I ask once again, how did you come to those conclusions? and how are you right about any of those? and what kind of supernatural powers do you have to know even what type of photos I take just from how I meter the light?
it's amazing for me to watch a schizzoposter in denial
>>
>asked for both CS9000 film holders from Stephan
d-did I do something wrong
or is this just his esl
>>
>>4370767
Wooooooo boy. We got a live one here!

You called me a cuck.

Surely you have a cuckold obsession and are a schizophrenic because I was talking about a more technically advanced method of film metering and processing than your tiny brain can comprehend even after 10 WHOLE YEARS of snapshits!
>>
>>4370761
for a fun sidearm on a trip a disposable will be great. Its not gonna give you any amazing results the lenses are not the greatest. if you want something like a dispo thats a little more high quality you could get a small point and shoot. I have an Olympus 35 ec and its great for that sort of thing
>>
>>4370590
>>4370595
>>4370597
>>4370600
meter for the shadows retards, that's the tried and true method
>>
>>4370817
That's what I have been saying, my sweet cherub. It is more than just the tried and true method. It is the first step in producing a negative that you KNOW will print/scan well.
>>
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>>4370567
>>
>>4370889
Idk why it triggers me so much when people say "sensor" or "sensor size" when talking about film but it truly does.
>>
sensor dust is way worse than any spec of dust or hair on a negative
fuck dog hair anon tho
>>
>>4370893
Do not fuck me, rude-ass. The worst is dog hair on the film or within the camera. We call it the black hair of death in my neck of the wood.
>>
>>4370817
F8
AND
BE
THERE
>>
>>4370815
That's what reserach has shown me.
These disposables don't even have variable shutter and aperture (or even zoom) huh. I'll shop around for a cheap point and shoot, but since I'm heading over to Japan I just might shop there for one instead.
>>
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>>4370777
>>4370767

Now both of you post a photo that you think best showcases your metering style and we'll judge it based on that.

If you have the time you in the studio , you should take multiple meter readings and cater your approach to the photo based on the result you want but if you're on a hike, with light changing and limited time and shooting negative then metering for shadows is just fine. But now I wanna see both y'all's works.

Fight! Fight! Fight! Kiss? Kiss? Kiss?

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>>4370933
I'm down, but I want the midtonecel to post first. I have the perfect image to share.
>>
>>4370761
>>4370929
Hold on a minute
What if I grab something like an N55 and just use my D200's lens on it? 350 grams for one is kinda pushing it but it'll be cheap.
>>
>>4370933
Love me a good photo battle to settle the score.
>>
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>>4370938
Assuming the lenses are indeed compatible (some lenses won't autofocus even though they are AF Nikkor) you'll be cooking. I like mine even with just the kit lense, it feels like shooting digital desu

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>>
>>4370937
>muh dead bugs and leaves
>>
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>>4370969
and I'll post a couple of photos I took with it, all 400 speed fujifilm and the cheap lab scan

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>>4370971
Incorrect.
>>
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>>4370973

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>>4370975

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>>
>>4370938
only if it's a screw drive lens
Nikon's got a lotta bullshit lens restrictions and Ken Rockwell's "Nikon Lens Compatibility" is the best resource for figuring out what works with what
>>
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>>4370979
as to your question about weigh, it feels like it should be a toy with how comically light it is. based early 2000s plastic I guess, i've never been rough with mine so no telling how it'd hold up if you were aggressive with it on a hike or what have you.

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>>
That's the strategy I'll go with it seems.
Thanks anons. Hopefully in a month I'll get back to the thread with some nice shots.
>>4370969
>>4370980
>>
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>>4370974
>>4370971
>>4370939
>>4370937

Stop teasing us and put it in already.

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>>
>find a scene
>meter for shadows, midtones, zone 3, zone 7, highlights
>heh, this will be the perfect exposure
>set up tripod, take another meter reading because light has changed by 0.1 stops in that time
>perfectly line up rule of thirds composition
>shoot a frame with a cable release on my 35mm SLR
>"cant wait to get home and develop this for the highlights"
>nail perfect exposure, "i can use this as fodder to prove to /p/ that i can shoot film!"
>its a photo of a stop sign with rocks under it
>>
nothing personnel kid but I'm all talk and no substance
>>
>>4370992
kek
>>4370988
post moar, she's cute
>>
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>>4370988
Here you go. Regardless of content this image printed exactly how I wanted it to with zero dodging or burning on graded silver chloride paper. I had the vision of the print looking like this before I took the picture and because I exposed and developed it correctly it worked out perfectly with zero fiddling or fussing. Exposure time and dev time, that was it.

Delta 100 @ 50iso, staining pyro developer. Measured around 7-8 contrast range, which was high for printing on already high contrast paper. Staining developers work to help compress the highlights, and this developer is also quite low contrast already. I actually added additional accelerator to the developer because I wanted to preserve the stronger highlights and I have a good feel for my developer.

Silver chloride in amidol develops everything at the same time. The highlights, midtones, and shadows all come in at an equal rate. There are ways to help bring your highlights down, but they were not needed because my negative was perfect.

>>4370992
Lol. You know how dumb you sound because you forgot to mention the whole point of getting proper exposures? It's to make them PRINT well! DUH.

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>>
>>4371010
>Rocks instead of dead bugs
Daring today, aren't we?
>>
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>>4370988
Look this is what under and over exposure looks like with silver chloride paper + amidol. It is vastly different from how normal enlarger paper develops.

The middle is 12 seconds and the darker one is 20 seconds exposure. I started using a much stronger light, so I don't have a comparable exposure time for it.

Just for the record I am not editing these. My stupid phone embeds files into my images sometimes so I just run them through lightroom and it removes it so I can post.

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>>
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How are you all so bad at metering.

The only way to meter is with one of these with the bulb out pointed at the main light source. It will give the actual correct perfect exposure every time.

You may consider -1 stop from the reading for a sunset if you want that mood.

Also don’t be an idiot, if you are standing under the shade of a tree but photographing a mountain out in the sunshine, you obviously go meter the sun as that’s the light hitting your subject.

It could not be more simple.
>>
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>>4371009

I know anon, but you're not getting any more. The rest are for me. These were just reaction images to a lover's quarrel.

>>4371010

Ayy, finally the one to nut up. I had a hunch it was you. Nice work. Dudes just salty your shit is properly exposed. Now let's see the other dude's work.

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>>
Just stop being so stupid holy shit
>>
>>4371015
Scanning mindset. If you have a contrast range of 9 because there are deep shadows and bright blue skies you are going to have a very difficult time printing it, and have to rely on excessive dodging and burning. Your highlights may even be too dense to scan well.

If you push process you can compress the contrast down producing a flatter negative that will print and scan significantly better.

Challenge yourself to be better. The goal as photographers is to see the finished print before we even set the camera up and use our understanding and feel of the entire process to produce what we have envisioned as a final image/print.

>>4371016
I'm actually really proud of how that shot came out as a print. My contact prints weren't coming out super well when I was using standard VC paper, but once I tried the silver chloride + amidol I understood that I was doing things correctly for the most part, lol. I doubt he will post, but it would be cool if he did post an image.
>>
I thought pixel peepers and fagsheet readers were the worse type of photographers, but I now learn that even in film, which should be vibey, there's dick measuring contest on how to fucking expose lmfaoooooo
>>
>>4371018
Pull process actually. Sorry.
>>
>>4371020
We had a disagreement and I was asked to provide an image that demonstrates why I choose to do what I do with regards to exposure. You've got an incredibly sad mentality on photography if you think technical proficiency is a bad thing.
>>
>>4371020
>muh vibes
fuck off zoomer
>>4371017
meme ""rule""
>>
>>4371024
t. too stupid to use her eyes and needs a machine
>>
>>4371026
ugly feet
>>
>>4371027

don't make me take out the spray bottle anon
>>
Idk if you just got banned or what, but thanks. Your lf shots are quite nice as well. I'm waiting for ektachrome 8x10 sheets to get back in stock. It's going to be tremendous.
>>
>>4371020
digital pixel peepers are based. Equipment should be held to standards if it costs $1699 and anyone selling shitty cameras deserves a kick in the ass or a slow death as a company. Cameras are not made as gifts to us they are soulless money making machines that were born in boardrooms full of unintelligible buzzwords. Digital is all fake anyways just edit in whatever the fuck you want.

But film? Its already essentially dead, anything that turns out like shit was intended to turn out like shit to highlight the analog nature of the medium. Who the fuck cares if a photo is underexposed fomapan shot through a sock. You fags act like fuji just released the underexposed fomasock for $2000 and it can’t compete with canon’s $1199 overexposed fomapanties.
>>
>>4371029

nah, I removed it cause I realized some people in the thread don't deserve nice things.

Yeah since I got back to the US I've been shooting E100. I love it. I'm leaving again soon tho, excited for some new scenery.
>>
>>4371031
>nice
What, this thing?
https://archive.palanq.win/p/thread/4367820/#q4371026
>>
>>4371017

This does not sound correct for a sunset.
>>
>>4371031
Well, well, well... looks like freestyle had some 8x10 e100. I've only shot 120 and 35mm slide film, so this should be quite cool. I'm going to get it developed at my local lab. Should be around 30-35 dollars per shot in total. Not too bad. Provia 100f and velvia sheets are like 50 dollars each on ebay.

Agreed that there are some undeserving people here. I feel similarly about sharing some of my technical autism knowledge sometimes.
>>
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How do you deal with the fear of your equipment/film failing you in the moment when you have a potentially once-in-a-lifetime scene in front of you?
I just came across this image and I cannot image how mind-blowingly incredible this photo would've looked if it weren't taken with some piece of shit lens.
>>
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>>4371171
it's easy: I simply recognize that no matter how good I thought my picture might have been in some hypothetical scenario with different equipment, it would have actually still have been shit just like all my other pictures

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Ok I'm clearly fucking retarded but I'm going to ask anyway - 24 shot rolls i can load into Patterson reels in the dark with no problems, but when it comes to 36 shot rolls I'm there in the dark twisting it on and it always gets to a point where it seems to bind and then if I keep trying to wind it on I can feel it starting to crunch or crinkle. Because I can't (obviously) see what I'm doing in the dark, I don't know how to unfuck it at that point - I've just been wrapping it loosely around the outside of the spool and stuffing it in the tank but going forward I'd like to fix this.

Any suggestions, anons?
>>
>>4371171
I often have 2 different cameras with me, that's how.
>>
>>4371187
You've got shit reels I reckon.
Of course it can also depend heavily on the film. Dogshit film that is very thin is a bitch to get on the reels. I don't think different exposure counts has ever had an effect on how easy it is for me to load the reels.
Anyways just twist that shit as fast as you can while using minimum amount of movement.
>>
>>4371030
So you spend your day reading on how the decibels of the newest version of a camera are 1% better than the prior version but how it don't have internal ProRes RAW, and thus spend days to weeks reading up on every single brand to maximize shitty pics.

Fwiw, I am more infatuated that broheim here >>4371022 and the other faggot got into this big argument over a whole lot of nothing.
>>
>>4371171
You mean like in my dreams?
>>
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>>4371279
Ektar?
>>
>>4371281
Ultramax
>>
>>4371285
makes sense Ektar should have finer grain
didn't know Ultramax also had that purple tint
>>
>>4371187
>I've just been wrapping it loosely around the outside
How much?
Maybe try snip like 4 inches of the leader off before rolling it. And check ur reels if there is some shit in it that can cause a jam like tape. Also when it gets stuck sometimes try smack the side of the reel with ur hand, it can help unstuck some shit. Lastly just buy a cheap ass roll (dont shoot it) and roll it 10 times in light on the reel so you can actually see what the actual issue is
>>
>>4371248
No i check iso 6400 and +5ev shadow recovery on dpreview thats lt
>>
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Time to develop my snapslops
>>
>>4371373
holy shit dude, how many gas stations did you photographed?
>>
>>4371373
Noice. I almost picked up some CineStill but ordered 4 boxes of Portra 400 instead.
>>
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Just got my Canon A-1 first roll back, this kodak gold 200 looks like fucking ASS >>4369274

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This sunset is supposed to be orange/magenta, fuuuuck

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It was scanned on a Frontier SP500, I thought that would be it, am currently awaiting for the raw scans for me to look into it, it's also soooo grainy

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>>4371424
Your shutter is fucked.
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This dude is YELLOW, this don't look like any kodak gold I saw on google, looks like a VSCO filter set to 200+

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>>4371431
Why you say that? Shutter speeds sound accurate.

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>>4371432
now you know why it's called Kodak GOLD
also did some portraits with it, never again
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Panorama looking pretty ass too, I know these pics ain't hot shit, but the shitty crushed blacks, yellow/green tint, lack of red, it just makes it all even shittier

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>>4371435
THis is what I was expecting, mine look totally different

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How is the cow clipped in the black spots and also in the white spots? And this costs me FORTY dollars to acquire the roll, develop and scan, I got reamed hard by a train up the ass.

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>>4371432
Quick and dirty fix
Kodak Gold can look nice under the right condition but don't be afraid to do some edits if it doesn't look like you hoped it would
>>
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>>4371447
Am currently waiting for the raw scans to fix the pics myself, yeah this is much, much, MUCH better.

This is what my buddy's Fujifilm x-t5 captured, idk wether I wanna mess around with film, or Kodak gold 200 specifically after this, I'll try Portra, which I've never shot, I hope it don't turn out this bad.
>>
>>4371432
OH HERRO.
>>
>>4371436
what camera
>>
>>4371288
Yeah to be honest it’s the second roll of it I’ve ever shot so I’m still not fully sure what to expect
>>
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>>4367888
>>4367892
thanks to the anon who recommended the close up focus rings in the last thread, its not true "macro" but they've let me take a photo i'm quite happy with and will definitely be a gateway to a proper macro lens and setup for it

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>>4371450
Look honestly man, it's a number of things that went wrong here.
1. Skill issue. Get better at composition.
2. Using Kodak Gold 200 in 35mm. It's an okay film to use for snapshits on holiday or whatever but don't use it for portraits or anything important. Kodak Gold 200 in 120 is so much better that it's disrespectful to even give it the same name as its 35mm equivalent.
3. Learn to focus better. You've missed focus on half these shots. Insanely crisp portraits can easily be done on a Canon A-1 with a 50mm 1.8 as long as you nail the focus.
4. Whoever scanned these did a shit job. Find a better lab to take your film to. It's like they didn't even try to color correct at all.
>>
>>4371439
definitely looks like somebody at the lab was fucking with the sliders too hard
I don't mind the contrasty look desu but a lab should give you something more neutral so you can fuck it at your discretion
>>
>>4371584
Oh for sure this ain't bangers, I can admit that. Am complaining mostly on the colours of the film.

I received the BPM files and yeah, I think am gonna ask for my negatives and re-scan at another lab.

Not totally sure I wanna pony up for MF, I was thinking on getting a Mamiya C330, but not sure tho
>>
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yall ever apply film sim filters to your film pictures?
>>
>>4371663
No, that's gay.
>>
Is there a good MF camera that's not the size of the world? Going to Japan in a few weeks and been thinking of picking up one to dabble a bit into MF.
>>
>>4371620
>I think am gonna ask for my negatives
you should be asking for your negatives always
>>
>>4371670
more like, if you have to ask you should find a different lab
>>
>>4371665
Budget?
>>
>>4371665
TLRs are not big, they're generally smaller in length than an average 35mm SLR body, and about 2 times thicker
if that's still too big, get a folding camera
both TLRs and folding MF cameras are generally cheap too
>>
>>4371288
it was the red skin tone that made me think Ektar too
>>
>>4371665
Mamiya Six gang! (the folding one if you have to ask)
>>
>>4371620
Scan your own film (ideally as RAW, DNG or TIFF) don't arse about with other peoples scans. You will know how the shot should look and can setup your scanner (doesn't matter if it's a scanner or a camera scan) and negative inversion workflow to get it looking how it looked when you took it.

Otherwise you wil always be unhappy that whatever lab did your scans couldn't read your mind about how it looked when you were there.
>>
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Going to dump some shots from my first few rolls.
On another topic is it normal for a lab to charge 21 euro per roll for high quality scans? Seems really expensive. These scans are the lowest quality since I'm a poorfag and couldn't afford better.

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>>4371772
Camera unfortunately had a pretty serious light leak which appears on a lot of photos.

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>>4371773
Currently have a Fuji STX-2, but I'm thinking I should probably get a more reliable camera if I want to shoot more film.

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>>4371775
Here you can see the lightleak. It's mild here, but really bad on other photos. This was taken near Goerlitzer park in Berlin, which I walked through with some friends, none of us knew it was entirely controlled by drug dealers until we saw that there were three suspicious looking people on every single bench in the park.

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>>4371776
I need to get better at focusing in low light as a lot of shots came out really soft.

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>>4371777
I took a lot of Cinestill shots in Amsterdam and I'm really happy how they turned out.

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>>4371772
is that total or in addition to developing?
no that is not normal, but maybe in europooristania it is
after a couple rolls you may as well have bought a plustek
>>
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>>4371778
Think I used a tripod for this one, but I can't tell if it's soft from motion blur or bad focusing.
>>4371780
Including development it's 27 euro.
I could put together my own scanning setup for 400 so that's probably what I'll end up doing.

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>>4371781
I really like the way the blacks fade out into grain in this shot.

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>>4371782
I'm hoping that for the time being I can solve the light leak on my cam with tape.

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>>4371783
5km :|

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>>4371784
Got chased by the police here.

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>>4371785
Wolfsburg has some crazy architecture.

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>>4371787

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>>4371789
Underground passage for Volkswagen workers in Wolfsburg. Would've liked this one if it weren't for the massive light leak.

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>>4371783
it's got one of those little windows to see what film you have in there right? start with covering that. those depend entirely on the foam that wears out, and the appearance of the leak checks out (red=behind the film and not clearly from one side or the other)
cool vacation snaps, good job
>>
>>4371791
Thanks Anon :)
Yeah it has one of those and the foam is highly deteriorated. Put some electrical tape over it so I hope that solves it. I'll get a test roll so I can make sure.
>>
>>4371439
>>4371434
>>4371432
>>4371429
>>4371424
>>4371421
Still new to analog photography myself but I think you'd like Kodak ColorPlus more. It's less yellow and has less contrast, which makes it better for sunny days like that. Also has a bit less saturation. It'll be closer to this >>4371437
look.
>>
Going to shoot an important portrait on medium format. It'll be shot outdoors in the late afternoon under partly cloudy conditions.
Should I use Portra 400 that expired in 2021 or use Portra 800?
>>
>>4371673
my lab is the best in the city by far, but they always ask if we want to keep our negatives/have a checkbox on their order form. there is no default option. when they ask, like half the customers say "what does that do?"
>>
>>4371800
if it's important, don't use expired film
even if you kept it in a freezer or whatever
if you wanna use Portra 400, buy a new roll
don't be a cheap fuck when it comes to important stuff
this applies to pretty much everything in life
>>
>>4371677
Up to 500/600 in mint condition I guess
>>
Jason made a video about the TX-1 before I could get one, it's over :(
>>
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>>4371901
A cheaper tlr like the c330 is fairly compact, or you could do a fuji 645 rangefinder, but 645 is kinda meh if you want real MF. The gs690 is bigger than the world, but the size may be a better form factor than something like an rz67, and a rangefinder is much nicer for casual snapping. A tripod is sort of required if you want to get the most out of cameras like the rz67 because of their giant mirror slapping around. The ergos also suck.
>>
>>4371906
Would you recommend a PENTAX 6x7 or is it over budget? The ergos seem a bit better with the grip add-on and I've read that 6x7 is a good format
>>
>>4371932
I've used rangefinder, mirror slappers, and tlr, but never the pentax 67. It is a very large camera and most specimens will be out of your budget.
>>
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>>4371932
Oh there's these cameras as well. This is the graflex xlsw. It has a helicoid and usually comes with a small ground glass. Ergo is disgusting, but these cameras are so compact you can't really complain. Horseman and others make versions of these. If you troll ebay for a while you can find them for under 500 dollars, but they usually sell for like 800.

I just keep a 6x9 horseman back on mine and use an external viewfinder + zone focusing.

There's also the graflex xl that has a rangefinder, but the cameras are quite large and cumbersome to use.

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>>
>>4371906
>manly tears tries out m43
>>
>>4371902
It was over before it started. Get a 6x7 or 6x9 and a 35mm converter kit
>>
>>4372047
Or if you want to be incredibly based get a 4x10 back for your field camera
>>
>>4371775
>more reliable camera

Yes
Dont listen to brandfags too much, find a camera you like and go for it. Minolta, Olympus, Canon, Nikon, Pentax all have great lens choices. I've owned all but Minoltas and have enjoyed all of them. Do some research beforehand.
>>
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>>4372571
>>4372571
>>4372571
>>4372571



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