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File: fuji.jpg (436 KB, 1651x1651)
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This is the Film General Thread, aka the /fgt/.
Please post film photos in this thread.
It's ok to ask about film gear in this thread.
>it's not gay to post in the /fgt/, unless you haven't cottoned on yet that every single post on this board claiming that x film has y resolution is bait you can just ignore

old thread >>>4367820

Thread Question:
>does the /fgt/ serve a purpose now that /p/ is a film board?
I would argue it's still relevant to sequester our images from the digislug /rpt/
>>
File: two seater 2.jpg (1.02 MB, 2232x1464)
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>>4372571
I post my photos wherever I feel like thanks. also I took two exposures of this and my gf prefers this one but I prefer the other one, which of us is right /p/?

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>>
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>>4372583
and my preference

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>>
>>4372583
>>4372585
These are both abject garbage and I'm not sure why you (or me) are wasting any mental effort on it whatsoever, but she's right. They're both as shaky as each other, but the less centred but no distracting face and bollard in the bottom corner wins.
>>
File: 20241011_133309.jpg (669 KB, 1848x2650)
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:o I will be taking atleast a couple studio lit portraits of my dog with this stuff.

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>>
>>4372592
make sure to not get too much dog hair on those negatives, anon
>>
>>4372596
isn't E100 positive?
>>
>>4372596
My macro shot will be of a single dog hair zoomed in to fill the entire frame. Peak art.
>>
>>4372598
Yes it is. Probably won't have any images to share for a while because I'm going to put a lot of work into these 10 shots, and get them all developed at my local lab.
>>
File: 888.jpg (204 KB, 932x639)
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>>4372571
>>does the /fgt/ serve a purpose now that /p/ is a film board?
where the hell did you get that from?
>>
>>4372645
the fact that every digital poster here really wants to be film, but they cant
>>
>>4372648
so they're still digital posters
>>
>nophoto shits up thread
Shocking
>>
retard here, how do I git gud at shooting at night?
>>
>>4372712
Good night photography is 30% tripod and 70% metering. The use of a cable release is presumed. So basically, have a good tripod, and then use an external meter and learn how and what part of the scene to meter in order to get the effect you want. For daytime shooting there is theoretically a "correct" way to meter, but when shooting at night how you meter the scene is a much a creative choice as how you frame it, and what film you use.

Oh, and if you insist on being a pleb and sending your film off to someone else to develop, at the very least don't let the fucking lab scan your film for you. Scan and post-process yourself. The guy running the Noritsu has no idea what vibe you were going for, and will fuck with your images.
>>
>>4372712
do this
>>4372714
if you want to be a retard

just shoot at f 1.8, and the lower speed that you know that you are not going to fuck it up, shoot black and white film, throw in for one to two hours in rodinal

wala
>>
>>4372720
Why are sand niggers like this?
>>
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>>4372712
The correct advice is to get an aperture priority Nikon (FE, FA, EM, FM3a) or Olympus (OM10, 20, 30, 40) and use the self timer on a tripod.
No need to overthink it, shit just works, even shooting f/11 under moonlight.
Most other cameras will fail to meter actually long exposures, which means that unless you want to shoot wide open (and there's still a fair amount of light) you're shit outta luck/left guessing with a cable release and a calculator.
Reciprocity is mostly bullshit, just ignore it.
Make sure your camera has fresh-ish batteries.
Check your exposure is finished by looking through the viewfinder and seeing if the mirror has come down, not by touching the camera. In addition to great metering, these particular cameras all pre-fire the mirror when using the self timer, reducing camera shake.
Apparently Pentacks LX's are also good for this, but I've not used one. Oly OM2's and OM4's should also be ok, but in my experience those cameras are always fucking broken so I don't ever bother using them, the cheaper 2-digit series are better cameras imho.

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>>
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>>4372712
If you want to shoot with a handheld camera, my advice definitely changes.
If you don't want to use flash, you'll simply have to buy the best lenses you can afford (fast aperture/image stabilised/both) and just get good at focusing and holding still. You should always meter manually in low light when you're moving, as whatever light sources there are will always throw off auto exposure depending on which direction you're aiming/your composition. Meter off an object that's lit roughly normally for the scene, and decide how underexposed you think you can get away with, and just keep the settings the same until the light changes.
Lower your standards for what is acceptably sharp/exposed.
Expect to waste a lot of film.

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>>
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>>4372712
If you have a brain/want sharp, well exposed photos, then my advice changes again.
Use a goddamned flash.
The easiest way to do this is with a point and shoot, preferably an older one with infrared autofocus and a prime lense.
They grab good focus quickly even in total darkness, and with a faster aperture lense you'll get reasonable reach from the built in flash.
All of your photos will come out looking the exact same though.
If you'd like to exercise a little creative control, then you should just use the newest SLR system you can get your hands on, with an expensive first party TTL flash with an af beam on it, and again the expensive lenses with faster apertures and/or IS.
A Canon EOS camera with a 430EX is probably the cheapest way to do this. Put the camera in Manual, and set a shutter speed slower than 1/125 and a moderate aperture. Bounce your flash off walls, ceilings, etc and check the little LED on the back of the flash to make sure it goes green, indicating sufficient exposure was achieved.

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>>
Back at it.
This time we're doin' DIY E6 with rodinal and C41.
Roll is expired Sensia 200

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>>
what's the story with fuji slide film right now? i thought that they were going to axe their production of it but it seems that they're still manufacturing it, albeit very small batches
>>
File: Foma 400 Contrast Tests.jpg (4.6 MB, 3300x5000)
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So I was doing some random testing and figured I'd share the results for anyone who's interested. I shot the same scene eight times on Arista EDU/Fomapan 400 4x5 sheet film (rated at 320), two with no filter, two with a yellow filter, two with an orange filter, and two with a red filter. I tried to keep the aperture between f/22 and f/29 (f/22 is supposedly where my lens is sharpest), primarily adjusting shutter speed to compensate for filter factor. Lens was the 210mm f/6.8 Caltar.

I then developed one of each in XTOL with a 1+1 dilution and replenished stock XTOL, respectively. For the 1+1 I used a development time of 9:30 at 20c, and for the stock I used a development time of 7:00 at 20c. These were the massive dev shart times for Foma 400 at 400. Unfortunately there is only a published time for Foma 400 shot at 320 for the 1+1 dilution but not for stock, so I developed them both at 400 in order to keep things as consistent as possible.

The purpose of all this was twofold: firstly, to determine whether the cost savings from using the replen method was worth it, or whether there was a significant enough difference in sharpness and contrast to make me stick with 1+1. Secondly, to evaluate how the film performs with my filters, and determine whether there was a significant benefit to using the red filter over the orange filter, as my light meter can do 2 stops of compensation but not 3, which makes using the red filter more annoying.
>>
>>4372862
And yes, I am aware there is a light leak on the stock/orange filter image. The film holder responsible has been thrown out.
>>
>>4372862
huh, wonder where the stripes went on the american flag on left yellow pic
>>
>>4372865
filters still let light through so when you expose for the filter fact, light that makes it through gets overexposed
>>
>>4372869
This, the sun was hitting the flag bang on in that shot, so it was one of the brighter parts of the scene. And the yellow filter has a filter factor of 2/3, vs 1 for the orange, but in practice the camera settings the meter gave me ended up being the same, so the yellow shots are probably just slightly more exposed vs the others.
>>
>>4372862
>completely different clouds in every shot
>still barely noticeable differences
honestly my takeaway is that I'm not missing anything by devving everything in 1+100 rodinal for an hour and giving zero fucks about "recommended" technique
>>
File: HolofernesTest.jpg (68 KB, 750x938)
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Shot a couple years ago on Ilford XP2 but developed it with b&w chems
>>
>>4372892
I stopped doing that because the results were too grainy and soft for my taste, and also I don't have time to sit around and twiddle my thumbs for an hour for each tank I need to dev.
>>
File: raw0001.jpg (1.14 MB, 1000x1500)
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>>4372794
By some divine intervention, I've actually managed to get pictures out of this roll.

They're all absolutely COOKED by the amount of fuckery I did to them but hey, I got pics.

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>>
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>>4372917

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>>4372918

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>>
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>>4372919

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>>
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>>4372920

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>>
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>>4372922
there is a bit of a solarization effect from leftover silver in most of these
its pretty difficult to get it out, i've fixed this 6 frame strip for probably 15 minutes, the rest of the roll i've fixed for 25 minutes so it's probably gonna look better

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>>
>>4372748
the fuck is this photo?
I love it
>>
>>4372794
>This time we're doin' DIY E6 with rodinal and C41.
wat
how does that work? do you get positives?
>>
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>>4372950
some fucked up technique i found out about yesterday.

develop with bnw chems
dont fix
expose to light, lots of light
develop as normal c41
presto, colour positives (with awful colour casts)

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>>
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>>4372951
so basically you neutralize the negative image with the bnw chems, and when you pull it out of the tank and expose it to light, you saturate the rest of the film that was never hit by light, this is what becomes the new image after you develop in c41 and wash away all the silver with the blix

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>>
>>4372952
>it's just ass
Too hipster
>>
>>4372953
Ive heard you can remove the cast by using a full spectrum light for the second exposure.

My film looks like this because it was a decade and a half expired, prolly stored under a couch in a sunroom or something.

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>>
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>>4372862
>and my time consuming and expensive au-testing has determined the best photo is the one with the best clouds and nothing fucking matters
Really though, this is all shit you should already know by the time you're shooting 4x5.
>all pan film should probably be shot through a yellow filter
>red and orange produce near as damnit the same amount of extreme result and an orange is easier to see/focus through
>replenished or reused dev works fine if you follow the instructions, but also isn't expensive enough to bother risking not using fresh/one shot most of the time or if it's been sitting a while

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>>
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>What he could have had, vs what he got
>>4372954
Why would you do this with perfectly good slide film?
>captcha rvpy24

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>>
>>4372960
>Perfectly good
it was COOKED lol
Also cry about it.
>>
>>4372862
the xtol 1+1 def gives harder tonality, I prefer stock
>>
>>4372917
man, I hate modern graveyards, they are just awful and boring
>>
>>4372954
ah you were already using slide film then, I didn't register it was Sensia 200
I thought you were using C-41 film and making positives through some color reversal process
I've heard about those before but never tried

Does anyone know a good method of making positives out of regular negative black and white film? I've heard of that two-developments method where you bleach the film and expose it to light and shit
Any recommendations on how to do it?
I've only found the process in that Ilford page on "reversal processing"
>>
>filmfags gearfag and argue even more than digicucks
>they just post test shots instead of charts
>>
>>4373042
hey now, it's mostly friendly discussion and there are plenty of normal photos getting posted, not just test shots
>>
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didn't shoot shit this entire week

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>>
>>4373042
>people discussing chemistry and techniques are gearfags
nigger
>>
>>4373114
This. Anyone who thinks a discussion about the technical side of film photography/processing is a bad thing is exactly like those "kids" that would beat up a fellow student for learning to read, enjoying books and doing well in school.
>>
>>4373117
nah satan is cooler. he let me curse sony to never get a good pancake lens.
>>
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Is this worth it? My birthday's coming up and my fiancée has been hounding me about what I want for a gift.
Problem is, I don't own any Leica mount lenses and won't be able to reasonably afford one for a while so I'd be stuck with a body for up to 6 months.
>>
>>4373123
Jupiter 8 + adapter and

wala
>>
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>>4373094
I give up trying to match colors when stitching this shit
autostitch doesn't properly recognize the images, and the scans are not evenly lit, I'll see if I get it rescanned
>>
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>>4373128

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>>
>>4373128
Do you really need the resolution of a stitched image for that picture? Pick your battles.
>>
>>4373123
If that’s the one at the Sydney store I was looking at a month ago you’ll get a better deal by carefully shopping with Japanese eBay dealers.
>>
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tried out Cinestill 400D for the first time. I dont mind the colors, but im wondering why the red halos happen

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>>4373136
it's not a matter of resolution, the lab sent me this image unstitched because it's medium format and that's how they do it
but why shouldn't I aim for stitching "that picture"? is there something wrong with it?
>>
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>>4373144

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>>4373144
red halo around the light

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>>4373150
that's... most of the appeal of Cinestill
not having an antihalation layer
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>>4373144
oh crud i picked up a roll of 400d to shoot at a wedding tomorrow but i didn't realize the halation would be so strong in daytime because i always see the nighttime cinestill pictures
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>>4373153
cool i was given a roll for free and had no expectations at all so I shot it like a regular roll of film. I dont mind the red i was just curious. i almost always shoot Gold 200 for most stuff
>>4373154
good luck man im sure it will be fine

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>>4373156

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>>4373138
This one's at Chadstone, but there is the black M4-2 in Sydney which caught my intertest too.
>>
>>4373123
Check if it's been CLAd recently, if so then who by and if you can get the report. The warranty means fuck all because if it's needs a repair in that time the camera will be sent to Germany for a minimum of 6 months and you will be angry at that. There are other great options in terms of stores. Times camera in Victoria and Peters cameras on Instagram who both have high reputation.
In terms of it being an M6, I would stay away from it. It's largely a meme. I assume you will be taking actual photos with this and not just rocks, leaves and stop signs. You don't need the meter. An M3 M2 or M4 are much better and cheaper. For glass just buy a voigtlander lens to start.
>>
>>4373041
You can make slides out of regular print film too, you'll just end up with an orange mask instead of a clear one.

Heres the recipe I based it off. I used stand dev rodinal instead of hc110 (prolly why mine is so foggy)

https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/how-to-consistently-make-positive-e-6-transparencies-with-c-41-chemicals.160510/
>>
>>4373230
Woops nvm i thought you were asking about the slide reversal.
>>
>>4373123
Is this a joke?
Why would you buy some banged up hipster crap at that ridiculous price point?
>>
>>4373266
name a better rangefinder
>>
>>4373268
Mint condition Leica M2 for 2000 dollars.
>>
>>4373114
It's literally gear. No different than talking about sensors, software, and RAW editing.
>>
>>4373303
You are seriously stupid.
>>
>>4373268
>rangefinder
Why would you ever use a range finder?
And there are heaps of extremely cheap cameras out there that easily outperform that hipsterblock.
>>
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>>4373306
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>>4373306
you really think I am into analog photography because I care about price/performance ratio?
>>
>>4373310
Film photography is an intellectual and artistic pursuit that your childish fun makes a severe and undue mockery upon. Show some respect to those with higher aspirations than you, sir.
>>
>>4373311
No, I think you're "into" analog photography because you treat it like some sort of accessory. You just want to strap a block around your neck to pose. Instead of finding a subject to take pictures of, you want to BE the subject.
And I just find that whole mindset insanely pathetic.
>>
>>4373313
you don't know me, I fucking love going out taking pics
>>
>>4373313
People who make schizo head canon posts like this are the biggest losers on the internet.
>>
>>4373304
>i started with digital so am unable to make the connection
>i literally just want to talk about the latest thing i discovered
>i don't actually take any photos, just test shots to talk about gear
>>
>>4373314
>>4373315
Really, though.
Explain then, why you choose to go with this camera in particular.
It doesn't make sense unless you see it as some sort of fashion statement.
>>
>>4373312
Cringe gatekeeping retard.
>>
Went to kitamura in Shinjuku. Honestly disappointed by the prices, I don't know what I was expecting. Prices were the same if not worse than UK eBay local sellers, though I must admit they do have plenty of stock. Which actually makes the pricing seem even more dumb.
>>
>>4373324
A simple commoner like yourself would never understand the importance of such distinctions. Begone peasant! Your kind is not wanted here.
>>
if you ask random people for places that might be interesting to a photographer your hobby becomes like a video game with quests and NPCs and shit, it's great
>>
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Testan my 65mm Nikkor wideboi. Overcooked a little because I was busy stroking my gearfag dick.

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Funny how a wrecked white Mini can lie on a roadside and you pass it like 50 times without ever noticing until someone clears a few brushes away.

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Was hoping to get the whole weird octagonal fence in frame but someone had erected an info plaque to prevent just that.

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>>4373356
65mm is so fun on 4x5. One of my favorite focal lengths for the format. :)
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>>4373357
nice shot
decayed man-made things are always such good subjects
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>actual photos get no replies, feedbacks or criticism
>abstract discussions about gearfaggotry get immediate and endless repercussion
I'll just start posting bait
>>
>>4373370
NTA but agreed
>>
>>4373392
It's a very boring board considering the toxicity. Can we at least be more vicious toward one another?
>>
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second for fomapan
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>>4373393
posting more photos on this thread since it's supposedly a photography board
>>4373395
agreed, I propose we create the /pb/ board (photography and brawl) so that we can at least get out and punch eachother
whoever wins gets to keep the other person's camera

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>>4373400
walked by this house the other day and had the impression the car was more beat up than when I took the photo a couple months ago

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>>4373402
last one for now

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>>4373400
i have an arsenal of broken zenith cameras ready to bust some heads
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>>4373400
Why not just have photo battles?
>>
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>>4373408
it'd get tiring winning by W.O. everytime
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>>4373417
Yep. I was really dissapointed last time my opponent failed to even post a photograph.

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>>4373370
Thanks. Out in the boonies you can find these wrecks in the weirdest places. This one was next to a forest tractor trailer, not even close to an actual road. They seem to always be 50-60's models, I'm not really sure why but I reckon back then you either didn't get anything from bringing your car to a junk yard or even had to pay for them to take it, so you might as well just abandon it somewhere in the woods. Funny thing is if they'd kept the car in a barn or something, it'd be worth quite a bit of money these days depending on the model.

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>>4373446
it really seems like most people didn't have a concept of things going up in value over time, I am kinda jealous of that
oh to live in blissful ignorance and only being concerned about the here and now
>>
>>4373320
the crickets speak volumes. I see this same shit a lot with synthesizer fags too, air heads fetishizing brand names and "legendary" models because... someone popular used it, or they hear about it online a lot. it's gay as fuck
>>
>>4373320
It was already answered, dummy. They're fun to use.
>>
>>4373457
gear snobs are the worst
every time someone asks me what I used they are either amazed or speechless that it's just a little MicroFreak and some DAW plugins instead of expensive outboard gear
and for photos I use a some sub $100 SLR

just use whatever the fuck you have
none of your heroes thought you have to have that rare, expensive piece of gear to make good art, it's retarded
>>
>>4373306
>Why would you ever use a range finder?
because you have no interest in macro/telephoto/uwa boomergraphy and prefer to see outside the lens FOV to anticipate action better

it also makes using colored filters for black and white photography enjoyable, because you can actually fucking see.
>>
>>4373457
You realize that by being mad over the fact that other people are obsessed with their image and conflating identity and products, you are doing the thing they want you to do correct? You are obsessing over their image, just not in a positive way. You are perpetuating of the cycle, not radically rejecting it.

If you really wanted to hurt his feelings, you simply wouldn't care if someone uses a Leica or a Roland or a Lamborghini or whatever. Being indifferent to displays of consumerist status symbols is the only way to reject them. Giving them negative attention equally feeds their ego as much as positive attention

You should really be less concerned with what others are doing.
>>
>nophotos keeping pointless discussion alive
if some faggot wants to drop almost $4k in an overpriced subpar camera body why would I give a shit, this is not a financial advice board
post photos, discuss photos

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>>4373467
idk, you're the one getting mad about it on the internet and demanding that he justify his purchase.
>>
>>4373469
>>4373467
PHOTO BATTLE NOW.
>>
>>4373356
>>4373357
>>4373359
Nice photos but lacking some dog hair
>>
>>4373469
I'm just posting photos, buddy
the only time I said anything about it was in the post you quoted
so are you gonna post/discuss photos or what?
>>4373482
I don't want to "compete", it doesn't even make sense
I just wanna go in the photography board and the /fgt/ and get to actually see some fucking photos instead of the same tired discussions every goddamn fucking thread
yeah, Leicas are expensive, people will buy it whether people like it or not, and if the money's not coming from my bank account then I don't give a shit
instead of trying to hype up a fight also do your part, offer some criticism on the ones I've posted then
>>
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>>4373490
>so are you gonna post/discuss photos or what?
No, I hate this board.
>>
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>>4373513
):

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>>4373526
Where'd you get that picture of my left nut?
>>
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>>4373532
found it in your uncle's drawer
anyway, when was the last time you shot something on film?

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>>4373535
You're a thief and vandal and for that I say, how dare you, sir.

Nudies of your mum last night. An eventful evening.
>>
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>>4373537
okay here's your last >(You) until you actually post a photo

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>>4373458
>they're fun to use
What makes them particularly "fun" to you, other than the brand tag?
>>
>>4373562
Smallish, feel nice to use, good for zone focused quick snaps, the viewfinder gives you extra room to see anything coming into frame to name a few fun things about them.

Your obsession with brands is amusing.
>>
New to this, I'd like to scan and process my own negatives without relying on a lab. Could you please recommend me a scanner for negatives under ~1k? Besides the optical resolution, what else matters to you in a scanner? I don't think I care about automated / batch scanning.
>>
>>4373591
get a digital camera and a macro lens
>>
>>4373591
a minimal valoi kit for your format (you dont need the transporter or brush or shit, just the holder light and stand), literally any camera that can use FE or EF mount lenses, and the sigma 70mm f2.8 art macro.

Lab scanners are 20mp tops and shit out 8 bit images with extra digital "grain". It doesn't matter how bad the camera, ie: canon rebel is, basically everything is better than a lab scanner.
>>
>>4373144
>why the red halos happen

>While we are talking the film’s background, it is important to mention that 400D is a departure for Cinestill. Previously the company had been adapting Kodak Vision3 motion picture film for still photography by removing the remjet layer that motion picture films possess. 400D on the other hand was specifically manufactured without the remjet layer.
>>
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>that perfectly circular flare from the sun that gives zero fucks about the frame edge existing
I am (easily) amused.
>>
>>4373604
>>4373606
that's an interesting option, thank you! I'm not sure though, my digital camera is 20mp, and the sigma 70mm macro is about $500, but there are dedicated desktop scanners around that price and I wouldn't need the light table and stand etc., why wouldn't it be better to get a scanner? is it possible to get one with enough optical resolution at that price point?
>>
>>4373266
They’re dollarydoos so it’s bite quite as much as you think
>>
>>4373320
Because rangefinders are fun, because I like what is available in M mount, because from time to time it’s handy to have a meter, because I find the design more comfortable than a Canon 7, because it reminds me of my P49 handgun, and because it makes you assblasted.
>>
>>4372744
>The correct advice is to get an aperture priority Nikon (FE, FA, EM, FM3a) or Olympus (OM10, 20, 30, 40) and use the self timer on a tripod.
any advice for a noob that mainly shoots at night on something that will meter properly (like an OM10, they seem affordable) as opposed to buying a meter?
I have a pentax spotmatic SP that i meter with my phone, it's been fun so far but I want to either get a camera that will do it for me, or a legit meter.
the m42 mount seems okay for affordability on my pentax, but would moving to the OM mount on an olympus SLR be better long term? Lenses seem just as cheap and easy to find
>>
>>4373461
>You realize that by being mad
wrong, just noticing retardation
>you are doing the thing they want you to do correct? You are obsessing over their image, just not in a positive way. You are perpetuating of the cycle, not radically rejecting it.
no, because i'm not a gear fag and like laughing at retards on the internet, lmao. not trying to radicalize anything buddy
>If you really wanted to hurt his feelings, you simply wouldn't care if someone uses a Leica or a Roland or a Lamborghini or whatever.
you sound like the exact type of male brained loser i like to point and laugh at
>Giving them negative attention equally feeds their ego as much as positive attention
i laugh at these people for a hobby and do not interact with them. it's their money to waste, and my time to spend kekking
>You should really be less concerned with what others are doing.
you type like a faggot
>>
>>4373608
i know this is just a crop to show the halation, but i really like this as a complete composition. this is album art worthy. post more of your stuff, anon
what film was this shot on? how was it developed?
>>
>>4373467
EI and developer?
looks good
>>
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>>4373699
>this is album art worthy
It really is not lol, but I appreciate the sentiment. But it's just a (not very good) family snapshot, so I can't even show it properly. Here's a quick preview from flatbed anyway, sorry to disappoint.
I was fooling around a lot but I do have a few ok frames on this roll. I'll post them later once I run them through Coolscan and fix up a little.
Oh and it's Kodak 6556 in TD-3, standard dilution, procedure B for 24 minutes.
>>
>>4373697
>i can say swear words
You're poor and that's why you're seething.
>>
>>4373707
thanks, man
that's kodak double-x at iso 800
developed with Rodinal at 1:50, 18ºC for 18min
>>
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>>4373752
thats interesting, thanks anon
pic related is also double-x at 800, in rodinal 1:50 16 minutes at (or near enough) 20C but im not really satisfied with the grain
pic related is an unedited scan from a roll i shot earlier this year according to above
maybe its the scanner too, not having enough sharpness or resolution, maybe the grain is satisfactory once i get around to enlarging them
sorry for blogposting, ill make sure to try 18C for 18 minutes next time

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>>4373696
I have an OM2n and I find the nighttime metering acceptable but daytime I tend to comp it down -1/3 or -2/3 because it tends to overexpose daylight imo
>>
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>>4371583
My odyssey to do some kind of macro on film on the cheap continues with this $25 craigslist find. Now to put a roll through it and find out what (if anything) is wrong with it. I've found a couple of decade old forum posts talking about this particular bellows lens with some solid photos attached but I'm also going to have to investigate what settings will actually work out and about since I'm pretty confident this bad boy isn't just a sunny 16 type of shooter.

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>>4373907
have you checked for lightleaks and pinholes?
also look up how to calculate for exposure compensation
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>>4373907
Ultra based. You need to use bellows compensation calculator to properly meter your shots. Check art of foto app. It's free and has all that stuff.
>>
>>4373907
Unless it has ttl metering, but you should still use an external spot meter.
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>>4373911
light leaks idk, but the body is in very good shape and the meter appears functional. as to pinholes it passed the test of a dark room and flashlight around the extended bellows with the lenscap on, but obviously the real test will be once I have film in the camera. the guy I got it from said it was his uncle's and he used it to photograph slides, it also has an attachment for a flash unit to sit on the front of the lens off to the side (which I took off to inspect the actual lens quality since there was an 81A filter as well).

>>4373912
I'll definitely check it out. depending on what sort of exposure comp i'll need to be doing I may have to run out and get some higher speed film I guess, i'd really love to be able to use this walking around but reality may dictate this one to be a home/staged shooter.
>>
>>4373921
You may be able to use it handheld midday or with flash. Bellows look to be around 5 inches?, which is 1 stop compensation for a 100mm lens, and 1:1 magnification.

If you get a lens with a shorter focal length you can get much higher levels of magnification.
>>
>>4373921
>i'd really love to be able to use this walking around but reality may dictate this one to be a home/staged shooter.
you need LOTS of light for macrophotography and you need the camera to be VERY still
I don't think it'll be something to carry around and shoot
this will very probably require a tripod
>>
>>4373930
>I don't think it'll be something to carry around and shoot
DYEL NGMI
>>
>>4373925
>>4373930
15cm/~6in of bellows, the calculator >>4373912 recommends tells me that's about 1-1.3 stops of compensation which should be quite manageable in the f/8-16 range as long as I stick with 400+ speed film I reckon. also wow I completely didn't consider using a different lens but my 50mm f/2 will absolutely be something I use on this, though it will definitely need to be on a tripod since its going to be unable to get anything crisp if it isn't as tight as it will go judging from a quick look through the lens.

>>4373931
one day I hope to reach these heights
>>
>>4373931
I'm not talking about weight, I'm talking about not moving a milimeter when shooting
>>
>>4373931
What even is that?

>>4373937
Just remember that smaller apertures will quickly soften your image. Not so bad on large format, but it will make a huge difference for 35mm. Welcome to macro.
>>
>>4373938
Does it look like he's standing still?
>>4373939
>What even is that?
Skills.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/fotoopa_hs/albums/72157611107153997/
tl;dr laser diodes illuminate subject right in the focal point, detector triggers the rig to fire flashes and camera.
>>
>>4373943
>Does it look like he's standing still?
Does it look like he's shooting film?
the faggot can burst 60 shots at ISO 12800 and choose from them
>laser diodes illuminate subject right in the focal point, detector triggers the rig to fire flashes and camera
might as well attach it to a Roomba and let it walk around and shoot by itself too
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>>4373946
Cry about it
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>>4373943
This is the result. Impressive, but also wtf. Every troll on /p/ would have a heyday with you.
>>
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My neighbor was having a garage sale, I got all three of these for 20 dollars ish (total). They are in perfect working condition.

Just got some 120 film and cut the edges of the spool off with a scissors to load it in the Duaflex. I'm going to enjoy taking some photos on a camping trip I'm going on soon.

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>>4373952
Its a d200 lol

That camera was considered high resolution when viewing larger than VGA was called pixel peeping
>it will happen to you!
>>
Nophoto because I just sent my rolls to get developed.

Do you guys find yourselves trying to replicate film on your digital photos? Beyond the colors or whatever I think there's something about the pics I get out of film I can't seem to get in my digital pics, it's a skill issue but I can't pinpoint what. It's not the grain or the IQ that's some nerd shit, it's the feel like maybe I just don't feel as inspired when shooting digital.

does this happen to you guys?
>>
>>4373998
That makes sense. The system is very impressive. It's very boomer in a way.

Do you think he switched to a d850 eventually, or did he get some sense and go full mftard?
>>
>>4373467
Nice photo
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I made a stamp of my RB67
it's the first time I've ever made one so I forgot I had to mirror the image, that's why the lever is on the wrong side but fuck it

>>4374010
thanks!

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>>4373467
almost perfect, just needs a tiny bit of perspective correction. great shot
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>>4374005
Absolutely, I feel the same way. Ive got rolls getting developed so I went out to shoot digital today while I wait. Dont get me wrong, I love that it helps me get out of the house and explore when I dont have any film to shoot. However, im never really ever satisified with the images I get out of it and I cant figure out why. I still like the photos and enjoyed shooting them, but I cant help but think it would look better on film. Trying to replicate film on digital is a never ending chase. Heres an example from today shot on my Canon 5D Mk3.
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>>4374032
the colors are really nice
but personally I think adding that adding grain to digital photos to replicate film stupid
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>>4374005
>Do you guys find yourselves trying to replicate film on your digital photos?
That's what made me want to go analog. I used Dehancer (still do) to replicate different film stocks. I also still use my Fujifilm and its film simulations. But funnily enough, the more I shoot analog, the less I like simulating grain when shooting digital. Still like the colors from film simulations over how the RAW files look tho.
>>
>>4374005
i only own a shitty fuji xe camera because i tried the camera scanning meme, but i literally have not turned it on for like 8 months. im gonna sell it and officially own no digital cameras (other than some ccd's lying around, which i dont use either)
>>
>>4374005
no, the colors in my digital pictures are dull and sterile but I can't bring myself to filter-rape it because it makes me feel like the kind of clout-chasing instagram faggot that buys a fuji x100

so I just shoot film and the colors look good straight out of the scanner
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>>4374030
I didn't expect you guys to like that photo so much kek
thanks, man, I appreciate that

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Here's a few proper scans from the roll I talked about here >>4373709.
>>4373699
I think earlier I misunderstood what you said about it being like album art lol. I'm just an amateur photog, not a graphic designer, so I didn't see it that way. Still I appreciate it, even though it was a total accident.
Square is such an interesting format, can't wait for my Yashica to come back from CLA.
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>>4374177
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>>4374179
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>>4374181
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>>4374182
>>4374183
That's at least one too many of the same subject, but I haven't settled on which one I like the most yet.
I happy with the technical aspect of how this one turned out though, 300mm on a shitty non-VR Sigma zoom lens, 1/8th second shutter, camera just propped up on some rocks.
That's all! I shot some Gold 200 after that (it was beautiful golden hour if you couldn't tell), but I haven't sent it off to a lab yet.
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>>4374189
Nb. this film stock (x556 aka Kodalith), when developed as intended with lith developer, has virtually zero halftones. But with the right developer (eg. RLC or TD-3) and procedure, while still contrasty, it can give nice pictorial quality. It's fun to push film past its limits like that.
It was used extensively for backlit animation sequences in the original TRON movie, except they worked with 20x12 inch sheets, and not the puny 35mm lol.
>>
>>4374199
This guy has a collection of these (I got the images from there), pretty neat:
https://www.comicartfans.com/galleryroom.asp?gsub=150701
>With multiple layers of high-contrast, large format positives and negatives, this process required truckloads of sheet film and a workload even greater than that of a conventional cel-animated feature. The Kodalith was specially produced as large sheets by Kodak for the film and came in numbered boxes so that each batch of the film could be used in order of manufacture for a consistent image. However, this was not understood by the filmmakers and, as a result, glowing outlines and circuit traces occasionally flicker as the film speed varied between batches. After the reason was discovered, this was no longer a problem as the batches were used in order and "zinger" sounds were used during the flickering parts to represent the computer world malfunctioning as Lisberger described it.
Bravo Nolan!
>>
>>4374199
>>4374200
unironically pretty interesting stuff. Never watched the movie but now I might
>>
>>4374177
>>4374182
>>4374183
>>4374189
I like how these all have unequivocally manmade elements like the power cables and towers (and human interventions in the environment like the the pathway and even the monoculture and pasture) and yet feel so devoid of any life
it feels as if there are no animals in there, no other types of plants apart from the single certain crop used in the monocultural landscape
it all feels so structural
in the sense of a structure that we have made but never come back to, it's just kept there, monitored from afar
some people even pretend they're autonomous – in a completely fetishist fashion, as if objects were operated by themselves.
it's not meant to be kept around, it's like the underwater cables of internet we lay throughout the oceans and never looked back at them (as individuals, as someone actually laying eyes at the cables. They were never seen again, never looked at by anyone anymore)
consequently they also seem devoid of time, could be structures of 10, 20, some of them 50 years ago

I wish there weren't people in this one >>4374179
in my comprehension of the series they don't belong
monoculture as abandoned technology is eerily beautiful
would be one of the best in the series with the rich texture from the irregular terrain (which is somehow "flat" too because every little mountain has the same height, as if they were smushed by a giant glass from above)
even as a single photo I don't like the people there, they draw too much attention and I can automatically "hear" them
in all of the other photos you can almost hear that particular sound of complete silence if not for only the wind blowing in a vast space
not in this one (at least not without covering the people with your thumb; then you can clearly get it)

loved the first three I quoted, good job
>>
>set up tripod and quartz a friend gave me
>since its bright as fuck out decide to setup outside since I don't have any light panels
now I understand why all those old guys had a tarp or something, I had to go back in and find a bucket hat to be able to see anything damn
>>
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>>4373907
forgot to mention, there was an undeveloped roll in the camera when I got it. I rewound it and brought it in to get devd today along with a couple of other rolls and the prior owner must have been a dentist based on what came out. no idea when these would have been taken.

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>>4374375

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>>4374375
Ken Rockwells dad.
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>>4374376

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>>4374378
>>4374377
lol

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>>4374380

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finally was able to try camera scanning, absolutely not a meme.

Just with my chinesium lens and a extension ring I am getting decent enough results, maybe I will get a dedicated macro lens. Or at least a copy stand, it can be done with a tripod but probably not ideal

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>>
bought an expensive film camera but now i cant afford film. races for this feel?
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i am basically bruce gilden

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>>4374375
>>4374376
>>4374378
>>4374380
>>4374381
I couldn't think of a more disappointing outcome of a found film lottery if my life depended on it lmfao
>>
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>>4374420
what about someone taking photos of monke from the telly

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>>4374420
In the right setting the teeth might be kinda cool all hung up next to each other.
>>
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>>4374014
That's pretty cool anon. I do paint prints using a gel plate of some of my photos, perhaps I should do one of my cameras.

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>>4374431
wow that's a very nice way to expand on the possibilites of photography, how's your process?

I also handstitched this little bag for one of the extra backs of my RB at the beginning of the year lol

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>>4374433
basically:
>take photo, can be black and white or color, but if its color you'll have to desaturate it
>using photo editor of your choice, use one of a few methods to reduce the image to only 100%white and 100% black pixels. using color dodge, inverted layers, and a gaussian blur you can get outline style stencils (picrel); using other methods like halftone/screentone or color indexing yields blockier images like >>4374431
> save and print the image in CMYK color with a laserjet printer. it must be a color laserjet printer, something about the way the ink and toner are applied causes the black portions of the image to resist paint adhering. I use my local library's since its inbetween the photolab I use and my apartment, and its free.
>roll out a thin layer of paint onto the gel plate. there are a few different brands offering this style of plate, I got one at my local art supply store.
>press the printed out page onto the plate, applying gentle smooth pressure to ensure good contact. peel, et voila you have the first layer of a positive print
you can either paint more layers on with a brush or with a roller (just remember, the order will be reversed - the bottom layer of the plate becomes the top layer of the paper), or just use a medium to adhere the paint on the plate to your chosen board or paper.

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>>4372571
Why are nikkors such gearfags? The camera body has basically no effect no image quality besides how flat it holds the film, and yet they spend thousands on shitty cameras that have a million wear parts and no replacements parts. As far I as can see, beyond ease of shooting and maybe access to higher shutter speeds the only thing that matters about the camera body is what lens you can put on it. And since nikon is yet to make a decent lens, why bother? Is there some zoomer tiktok content out there telling people that 600 dollars is a good price for an fm2? Help me understand this
>>
>>4374436
2/10 bait
>>
>>4374433
That's really cute, anon. Love it. What backs are you using? I need to get a new back for my 67 pro but im not sure which to get. Was just going to get the 6x7 pro SD back as apparently those have mechanical light seals rather than the weird rope ones in the originals. winder is rooted on mine and the screw to get to it is seized :(
>>
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>>4374390
>maybe I will get a dedicated macro lens
the main difference will be edge sharpness. a modern macro lens with no extension tubes should have better edge to edge sharpness, as the focal plane is flatter. You can see a bit around the edges where the grain gets mushier, you would get less of that with a macro lens. If you mainly shoot subjects in the centre there's probably no need though. The centre sharpness on your image is really solid. I use the 30mm macro as it's just what I have and it works pretty well with a high res shot.

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>>4374435
That's like a poor man's photo gravure lol.

You should see if you can adapt some techniques from it to improve your own technique. It uses depth of etch to control the amount of ink that is deposited onto paper, which in turn allows for very fine tonal gradations. There's also this thing where they dust the plate before etching that plays an important role in creating good tone seperation.
>>
>>4374437
Is it though? is not having to use a battery worth paying 4x the price and having such a temporary product?
>>
>>4374443
I meant more the part about Nikon having no good lenses. Everything else I sort of agree with.
>>
>>4374444
Yeah that was a hyperbole, im sure they have some good lenses it's just not really what they're known for compared zuiko or zeiss or some shit
>>
>>4374238
Thank you anon, really appreciate the writeup and I'm glad you liked the photos! This is the deepest anyone ever interpreted my works, so it feels very special.
And I get what you mean about people in >>4374179 in the context of a series. I guess, while taking it, I was thinking about it as a standalone frame, and I figured it needed some kind of anchor to not be just a plain landscape shot - especially working in b&w while the light wasn't very dramatic (and not feeling like doing extensive dodge and burn work to make it stand out).
Well, maybe you can think of them as those last humans who were ever there - their work is finished, there is nothing more to do or find, they are going back, or maybe continuing onwards, leaving behind artifacts of their existence, maybe some disappointments, maybe some hopes, maybe some messages to whoever finds this place next.
>>
>>4374202
It's a fun movie, not great, but entertaining. Dated for sure, but as far as visual effects go, it was groundbreaking. IIRC the Academy snubbed it for an Oscar, because they thought that using CGI (there is some too, not a lot, but apparently they thought all effects were CGI) was too easy and basically cheating.
In a way, they were some 20 years ahead of their time with that opinion.
Anyway, if you're into that, also check out Firefox (with Clint Eastwood). It also has top notch VFX from that time, actually they had to invent new process to shoot it. You can read more about it here:
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0143/5772/5241/files/SMPTE_ReverseBlueScreen.pdf
(Also it's a great movie on its own, the book it's based on is very good too).
>>
>>4374475
>tfw born 30 years too late to work in VFX industry when it was still fun
Feels bad.
>>
>>4374476
One more paper worth reading:
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0143/5772/5241/files/SMPTE_HSStress.pdf
>Eventually, the theory surfaced that fluctuations in tension on the film as it negotiated the right angle turn around the "Feed Idler Roller" immediately prior to engaging the drive sprocket were causing localized alterations in sensitivity of the emulsion. And the theory of High Speed Emulsion Stress Syndrome was born.
>A hypothesis developed that the new tabular crystal structures, being relatively very thin, could actually be subject to fracturing and breaking if bent around a tight radius. This concept seemed a little far fetched, but the consequence of such an event would be consistent with the effect, in that the film exhibited a localized desensitization. Consider that if one could actually break one large crystal into two or more smaller ones, one would create a finer grained and slower emulsion, at least where the breakages occurred.
>However, this theory was confounded when it became apparent that the desensitization was also transitory. That is, if the stress were applied and the film then allowed to "rest," it would recover its normal sensitivity. The tests at Apogee included both pre-stress tests and post-stress tests, and neither pre or post stress caused the same desensitization effect.
>Eventually the hypothesis was modified to satisfactorily account for the transitory nature of the effect. Actual breakage of the crystal probably does not occur. Instead the crystal responds to the applied stress of bending around a tight radius in much the same way that piezoelectric crystals do: it transfers energy—electrons—temporarily. Thus, when the film bearing such crystals arrives at the camera gate for exposure to photons, it is simply not itself. The photons it absorbs under such conditions are unable to change the state of the affected crystals as they would normally and so some crystals remain - unexposed.
Fascinating stuff, if you ask me.
>>
>>4373123
Maybe I'm out of my lane here but if you can't afford a 1000$ lens maybe a 3000$ body is something you can't afford as well.
>>
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>>4374427
>In the right setting the teeth might be kinda cool all hung up next to each other.
>the setting:
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>>4374479
>$1000 lens
Anon if the lenses were $1000 I'd have no issue buying the body right now.
Unfortunately they aren't. Any half-decent Leica lens I've seen is either the same price or more than an M6 body.
>>
>>4374490
There are good options in the $1000 range by Voigtlander that get you shooting while you save for a Leica-made one if you so choose down the track.
>>
>>4374438
Thanks (:
I have two 6x7 backs and one 6x4.5
a friend of mine is selling a spare 6x7 back he has, and I'll buy it next month
It's good having extra backs because you can load different film speeds and types (color, black and white and slide) and different formats
All of them are mechanically sealed, from what I see, even the pre-Pro-S ones with the ropes, I guess that's just redundancy but they would probably work fine without ropes as well
Send your seized back to be repaired too, it'll probably be inexpensive and probably very much worth it
>>
>>4374479
nigga you'll get good pictures out of a $30 russhit lens and a $2 m39/L adapter ring
>>
>>4374549
oh but they're "fun to use"
>i.e. sit on a shelf for 6 months because the dumb faggot can't afford a fucking lens
>>
I just can't imagine spending thousands on a film camera body desu. what bells and whistles could possibly justify that cost
>>
>>4374565
social indicator that you are copying a famous jew and want the jews that be to let you into the club

its literally the only way to attain success in street photography if you arent brown or jewish
>>
>>4374566
>tfw brown
>just stole a tourist leica

WORLD FAME HERE I FUCKING GO
>>
>>4374565
It has good auto focus or let's you shoot big film
>>
>>4374567
WORLSTAAAA WORLDSTAAA!!!
>>
>>4374565
>what bells and whistles could possibly justify that cost
sovl

that's all you need
>>
Did my first roll of landscape photos today and I am not sure how I should meter. I guess I'll see how badly over/underexposed they are when I get the scans but I usually tried to overexpose by one stop or point as bit downwards (so bright sky won't throw off the meter), meter and set exposure, then point at landscape and release shutter.

Any tips?
Would an external light meter help?
>>
>>4374578
You can learn spot metering with the zone system. The basic gist is learning how to recognize contrast that's too high and also that exposing for middle gray is not always correct.
Grad nds are really useful for film where underexposing is not an option.
>>
>>4374578
Spot meter is generally considered a good idea for landscapes. If you don't plan on printing them in a darkroom you shouldn't worry too much as long as you make sure you don't underexpose the shadows.
>>
>>4374581
>>4374579
not that guy but what spot meter can i get that doesn't cost an arm and a leg? they're all ridiculously expenisve
>>
>>4374589
Pentax spot meter. The only thing I know is that they're cheap. Look at some reviews or something to see if it will be a good fit for you. Make sure you can still get the batteries they use.

https://www.keh.com/shop/light-meters-pentax-asahi-spotmeter-9v-px640-710826.html
>>
>>4374589
Minolta also makes sub 200 spot meters.
>>
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Post photos boys

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>>4374594
>>4374595
>OpticFilm 8200i
How much time did you spent cleaning up all the scratches and dirt?
Depending on your answer I might get one because those looks good.
>>
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sorry to bring up digishit but i just got an eos 6d yesterday and im curious if i should use it to switch to dslr scanning or if i should keep using my opticflim 135i. i only have the 28-135mm kit lens and im not sure of dynamic range differences so if anyone knows it would be helpful.

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>>4374594
>>4374595
very good scans but they almost look digital, why is that? maybe the colors, but i don't know
how much did you mess with the sliders?
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>>4373925
>>4373930
well, I got the first roll back. no light leeks and I guess I understood how to compensate for the bellows. these first two are handheld, no flash in the late afternoon/early evening light with the 100mm macro rokkor-x lens the bellows came with. at first blush it makes me think that in late morning to early afternoon sun and 800 rather than 400 speed film I should be able to use a fairly high shutter speed/aperture and get images that i'm happy with.

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>>4374676

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>>4374677
and these two are with my 50mm f/2 rokkor, which certainly did increase the magnification a shocking amount. I think a bigger obstacle to me freehanding it with this lens is the extremely narrow range of focus even at higher apertures. These were also done without flash since the main thing I wanted to test was the bellows/cameras technical performance and see if there were any leaks or whatnot. if I can find a slim bodied flash unit I'll be in business since I already have a mount for it, but if not I'll need to come up with an alternate setup I guess. the journey continues

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>>4374679

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/p/ I'll travel to Chile by myself at the end of the month and want to shoot lots of big ass 6x7 slides
i went there a couple years ago and was one of the first times I used color film and don't regret it
I have 4 fresh rolls of Kodachrome, and also 2 rolls of expired Velvia from 2007 that were kept in unknown conditions but are probably good
Should I risk shooting one roll of Velvia because of its colors and find out how good the rolls are or just stick to Kodachrome so that it's certain I'm not having unusable shots?
>picrel a shot from the trip from two years ago

>>4374446
glad you appreciated it
great photos, man
>>
>>4374699
I would stick to fresh film unless you don't mind losing the shot(s) if your Velvia is dead on arrival or at least take a backup shot on your phone or second camera to be safe unless you plan to visit Chile regularly enough to get a 2nd chance if there was something you liked
>>
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>>4374623
Too much in this case, unfortunately, the lab didn't do a very good job. It's what I get for being too lazy to do C41 at home. I don't know what the scanner has to do with it though. Would have had to do the same with a camera scan either way.
>>4374671
I use curves to remove color casts and adjust the contrast with histogram, that's about it. I'm not a puritan and I know the scanner outputs just what its digital sensor sees and interprets through software which isn't necessarily 100% accurate to what's "objectively" on the film. So I take some freedoms to adjust it to my liking.

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>>4374721
yeah I think it'll be better to just shoot everything on fresh film
it's just that I seldom use slides for everyday stuff, they're normally for trips and stuff
but when I go travelling I also don't want to risk missing shots
I think I'll just shoot a roll of Velvia in my everyday life and, depending on how it turns out, save the other one for another trip in the future
I'll bring my RB67 and have Ektachrome in one back, some color film in the other and possibly Ektachrome as well in the 6x4.5 back
also a Nikon FM2 with Ektachrome and a Rollei 35 with some color film
that's my everyday carry so I know it'll be feasible, the only difference is I will be shooting lots of slides
>picrel another one from that trip
>>
>>4373931
I kneel.
>>
>>4374676
>>4374677
>>4374679
>>4374680
these are all very soft except for the quartz crystal one
remember what the other guy said: smaller apertures won't necessarily help you
they'll get you even softer images
I know you wanna shoot handheld but maybe a better way is to get a tripod and a flash (a ring flash would be the best option)
the flash to get you enough light and fast shutter times, and the tripod so that you don't miss the focus as you did in these ones
shooting macro ain't easy, and every milimeter you move is crucial for focus
a tripod, a shutter release cable and a flash will help you a lot
>>
>>4374747
>>4374679
If you'd like to learn about diffraction.

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>>4374747
ty for the feedback. I think the softtness of the bugs is mainly due to a lack of focus and camera shake rather than stopping down too much, as they were shot at f9.5 1/125. the quartz shots on the other hand were taken using a tripod and shutter release hence the improved clarity. technically the bugs were using a shutter release as the camera came with a grip that mounts on the bellows' tripod screw and threaded through it like a trigger is a cable.

anyway i'm rambling, I should definitely look in to a ring flash as you say or at least some sort of thin unit that I can fit on the attachment for the lens I already have. I suppose just using the camera shoe isn't going to cut it since the extended bellows will block a lot of the light. the unit I do have has a short cable but maybe i can dislodge the hotshoe on the this other attachment and use it that way since its cable is longer...
>>
>>4374753
Isn't there a pc sync port on your camera?

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>>4374752

>>4374754
there is, but like I said the cable I have for the flash unit I have is very short (so I can't really set it up separately that effectively) and the unit is too fat to fit in the attachment I have that is basically the same as your pic
>>
>>4374755
You can get male/female pc sync cables if you need extra length. Kinda strange the flash has a cable instead of a port for a cable.

If your camera has an aperture preview you should focus on some small text that you've brightly illuminated or something like that while looking through the viewfinder and changing the aperture. You'll notice there's a sweetspot in terms of sharpness. You should try your best to use that aperture if you want the sharpest image possible.

Alsoooo before you go down the flash rabbithole consider using continuous lighting instead. There's some pretty strong and inexpensive LED cob units that work quite nicely for macro. Both have their pros and cons.
>>
>>4374641
For DSLR scanning you would need a decent macro lens, tripod/copy stand, light source and a way to invert colour negatives. Then you need to practice and refine your workflow doing this until you get at least as good results as your plustek.

In theory you can get very good results from DSLR scanning but there's a lot of effort and some $£€ to get there and possibly more to get there reliably and repeatably.
>>
>>4374729
>I don't know what the scanner has to do with it though
the opticfilm range of scanners is known for being dust magnets
I even saw direct comparisons with nikon scanners and the opticfilm one showed scratches and dust way more than the nikon did
>>
>>4374757
alright I checked again and the cable does indeed detach, I was just too ginger with it the first time because its nearly 50 years old and I didn't want to just mindless rip a cord off lol. well that will help, I can at least get a longer cable and rig up some kind of stand/holder for it to use at the apartment.

I really appreciate all the thoughts and advice on getting this setup going, anon
>>
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>>4374774
That's the first time I've heard that and I've been using these things for the last 11 years. I have never noticed the scanner itself having dust issues, if the film is clean then the scan will be as well. Although the iSRD is close to worthless. Pic unrelated.
>>
>>4374871
Happy to help and see your results! I really like macro so it's always nice to talk about the more technical aspects of it.
>>
>>4374895
first time I heard someone who uses one say dust is no issue
literally every review mentions it
>>
>>4374871
You really won't get good results with a flash mounted on the camera unless you use some kind of big softbox attachment and a quite powerful speedlight
https://www.camerahouse.com.au/promaster-speedlight-softbox-5-x-6-universal-130mm-x-155mm-x-121mm
A lense-mounted ring flash will obviously work well, but they aren't cheap, and I suspect you are.
They also really only produce one kind of look.
For very cheap and very effective, and heaps more creative control, a curly flash extension cable will let you use even a small, basic vintage flash unit very effectively for sidelight or backlight effects as well as just stopping motion. Pic very related.
https://www.amazon.com.au/Neewer-Camera-Flash-Speedlite-Digital/dp/B00YUAMMU2/ref=pd_sbs_d_sccl_3_1/356-7806884-2706027?pd_rd_w=TnS4b&content-id=amzn1.sym.943ecb9a-72fe-4f57-beac-485d7137c876&pf_rd_p=943ecb9a-72fe-4f57-beac-485d7137c876&pf_rd_r=XYCP5SFZ8Y5BC2XMSN5C&pd_rd_wg=alpVW&pd_rd_r=0bf1225a-1550-4891-abea-52286a8edcb2&pd_rd_i=B00YUAMMU2&psc=1

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>>4374623
the plustek is pretty good in terms of scanning, and if you've got old negatives, it's better than a nikon since it usually highlights a lot of the problems with your negatives with the harsh backlight.
i have to say that i had to do a bit of work in Lr to remove dust though. I never shot any 35mm color the time I had it, so I never really used the ICE or dust cleaning. the SRDx for "b&w dust cleaning" in silverfast didn't really work.
picrel a silverfast plustek scan

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>>
I lost my cinestill 400d film that I used to take pictures in Japan
I am devastated
I am pretty sure I put it in my luggage but all I found there was the purple paper package
>>
>>4375157
>purple paper package
Say this 10 times as fast as you can. Also, sorry for your loss.
>>
>only start saving money after scanning 56 rolls of film with the plustek
that's a lot, I am curious about how the scans would look compared to the lab scans, especially colors
also, the 8200 is supposedly over a quarter faster than older models and I heard people say using vuescan at medium resolution is really fast compared to silverfast, if only you could do batch scans
probably will get one next month or so and then get annoyed by having to clone stamp out all the dust and needing to spend way too much time babysitting the thing
paying the lab to do all the tedious work might not be so bad after all
why does everything need to be so complicated and annoying
shooting digital is nice, easy and fast but it's just not as rewarding and I hate the colors
>>
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>>4375129
>>4374895
>>4374774
I would imagine that there's probably some correlation to a diffusion vs condenser enlarger argument in the way dust or scratches show up, but at the end of the day clean film is always the answer. I'd rather see it if it's there, rather than have some dodgy interpolation editing my images and smudging detail before I get to them.
>>4374971
You need to appreciate that the smoothbrains who review/recommend these overpriced toasters are comparing to lab scans which are hot garbage but show no dust because
>your film is never cleaner than when it's fresh out of the developer at the lab
>image integrity was never the goal and they just run a massive radius spot heal mask based on the ir scan layer
A scanner that's not showing you something that's actually there is trash.

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