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This is the Film General Thread, aka the /fgt/.
Please post film photos in this thread.
It's ok to ask about film gear in this thread.
>it's not gay to post in the /fgt/, unless you actually believe a lab has ever pushed a film 1 stop in development for you

old thread >>>4375751

Thread Question:
>now that hiroshimoot has killed 4chan what is the point?
t. waited 900sec to post this because I have my browser set to clear cache and delete cookies and close it whenever I'm away from my computer like any sane person, leaving the bulk of all posts on the board to be made by absolutely wet newfriends without the barest skerreck of opsec
>>
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>>4380134
>t. waited 900sec to post
But I really hope this thread stays spooky for the next month or so it's doomed to last in this dead place

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>>
I just bought a Zeiss 50mm f1.4 Planar T* ZE for my canon 1v, but it seems like my 1v cannot control the electronic aperture? It just reads 00 and I can't adjust anything. Is there a custom setting I need to change? I thought it would just work. I don't want to return it, It's a beautiful lens.
>>
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>amass 12 rolls of color negs and slides over last 3 months
>send off and get them back from the lab
>realize I'll now need to cut, catalog, scan and postprocess them all
I'm not looking forward to it...
>>
>>4380172
Those 6x9 slides though hnnnnng
>>
>>4380172
you dont need to scan and edit all of them, its a waste of time. take a contact sheet with your phone. but ideally you learn to tell whats a good photo just from the negative.
>cut, catalog
this is the fun part tho
>>
>>4380174
Yeah "all" is a hyperbole, but I do quick scan everything in low resolution and then pick ones to do in full quality for editing.
This part does feel mostly like a chore though, even when results are rewarding.
>>
>>4380173
>Beautifully composed view of an interesting landscape with great colors
>Boring vacation snapshot tier followup
The duality of man I guess
>>
I don't know who it was but a few months ago anons were discussing B&W development and ideal temperatures and I posted that I was wary of dipping a toe into developing at all because I live somewhere hot and didn't want to have to deal with temperature control. Anon replied "just do it, you'll be fine." so I ordered a development kit.

Three months later I'm developing C41 and B&W 35mm and 120 and every time I pull developed film out of the tank I'm struck by the absolute magic of it, and I would never have taken the leap if not for anon on /p/. Thank you
>>
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>>4380137
did anyone said SPOOPY?
>>4380178
great for you anon, its always magic to see those pictures appear on the film. The fun never ends!

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>>
I bought a bulk loader with some film already set up inside it and shot a small roll of 10 ish photos. Only 2 came out usable and the rest was all fucked up. I also developed a larger empty piece off the bulk and it came out dark. Could it be that the seller had light leaked on to it?
>>
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>>4380182
Ok I realised I ruined it myself like a moron remembering now. It's a watson loader and I turned it to open when I pulled some film to stick it to the spool weeks ago. Is the entire thing ruined or is there a a chance film deeper in is ok?
>>
>>4380172
Ive spent the last several weeks on and off developing 30+ rolls of B&W, C-41, and E-6. I have one roll left and I'm definitely not looking forward the scanning and conversions
>>
>>4380178
>every time I pull developed film out of the tank I'm struck by the absolute magic of it

Wait till you do slide film.
>>
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had to downscale this scan of a print i did a few months back, so its a little more grey than normal

olympus om 1, kentmere 400 at 400 iso, blue filter, d76 on ilford rc glossy with a modified MG dev.

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>>4380191
Im temped to try but it seems like a process more prone to fuckups by me lol
>>
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instead of being cool and going out in a costume im inside monorailing taking a pic of a houseplant

toyo view omega 45e

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>>4380195
If you can do C-41, you can do slide film it's basically the same thing.
I did slide film before C-41
>>
>>4380203
join the darkside and start doing black and white. no worry about temperature for the most part, and expired dev is nothing compared to c-41
>>
>my Ricoh GR1 started making weird stuttering noises when I press the shutter

I've only had the camera for a few months :(
>>
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so I got this vivitar 28-210 for my srts. pretty neat. I have no idea how to determine focus below ~80mm or so, it just all sorta seems like its in. I guess that's the nature of wider angles?
>>
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>>4380224
it darkens a bit too at max extension, but its relatively clear at least (or so its seemed in these limited hands)
>>
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>>4380225
and then I got a 2x teleconverter to go with it, so now at max extension i'm getting a 420mm equivalent. since the season is getting colder anyway perhaps I will focus less on bugs and more on other things that I can shoot with a longer lens
>>
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>>4380226
>>
>>4380203
>If you can do C-41, you can do slide film it's basically the same thing.
I'm sure I'll fall down the rabbithole eventually lol - it must be fucking ace to see 120 come out in positive
>>
>>4380181
>great for you anon, its always magic to see those pictures appear on the film. The fun never ends!
Cheers anon, I still am almost surprised each time.
>>
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Got some e6 back, shot of the aurora turned out which is the highlight
Velvia 100 at f8, for 2 hours on my 6x7 with a 45mm
>>
>>4380239
Beautiful
>>
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I hate negative colour film. It never looks right.
>>
>>4380239
Excellent results for a 2 hour exposure. Could have done without the fence in the shot but nonetheless well done
>>
>>4380248
Yeah, I agree with the fence bit. I didn't realise how strong it was in the composition when i was setting up, I think Id either elevate my camera more or move more to the left to minimise it. Ahwell, just happy my exposure math checked out haha
>>
>>4380246
Your right that does sound very negative
>>
>>4380246
skills issue
>>
>>4380246
yeah you have to invert it, it's a negative after all
>>
>>4380246
yeah but slide film has shit dynamic range, and its pretty annoying to develop at home
>>
where can I get silverfast 4 free
i hate vuescan and I lost silverfast after I sold my plustek
>>
>>4380338
having to buy the software again if I ever decide to buy new scanner is the most jewish thing I've ever heard of
>>
>>4380342
I had to clear my registration off the serial so the new owner could use it
but even if I didn't, it wouldn't work with my coolscan because it's locked to a plustek 8200i
>>
>>4380342
The software, prices, and lack of trustworthy cracks for the software is why no one uses shatbeds.

That, and the fact that a top of the line almost-$1000 v850 with a $200 betterscanning holder and ANR glass set plus a $400 silverfast license just to get 16 bit tiffs is equaled by a D810 with a shoddy macro from 2004 and absolutely fucking curbstomped by a low budget sony FF and the sigma 70mm f2.8 macro - for 35mm and 120. For 4x5 you need to stitch, BUT, you will get your moneys worth out of the film because even if the shatbed scan of a large negative is "ok", the actual resolution per mm is still as low as it is on 35mm.
>>
>>4380358
shatbeds also have less color depth and dynamic range than cameras

you can scan with fucking aps-c and get more information off the negative lmao
>lab scans: my highlights blew, ON FILM?
>shatbed: my highlights blew, ON FILM?
>cameras and darkroom enlargements: oh wait, i have infinite highlight DR lmao
>>
>>4380342
>>4380357
wait what
silverfast licenses are locked to a specific scanner?
>>
>>4380362
to a specific make and model, yes
makes piracy a bitch too
>>
>>4380362
yes. during the time I had the plustek, I also had a v600 for medium, which comes with silverfast, but a less sophisticated version. It would never let me run Ai Studio 9 with the epson. Only SE 8 would work.
>>
>>4380358
>>4380361
get a proper scanner not a shitbed nigger
dslr (((scanning))) is for the unwashed masses
>>
>>4380370
What kind of proper scanner? A drum, or some shitty desktop or lab scanner that turns your glorious film into something that looks like it was shot on micro four thirds?

Camera scanning can exceed the capability of drums, easily. And more reliably. Drums are not just unreliable in use, most of them are janky and out of spec by now.

In fact, the oft-worshiped "HXY scanner" is just a well put together DSLR/MILC scanning setup using a phase one IQ4.
https://www.high-end-scans.de/en/tech/
>>
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>>4380358
>>4380361
this, I felt so disappointed the first times that I tried shooting 120 because I only have a shitty flatbed scanner. Now even with a m43 camera and a normal lens I a getting waaaaaay better results.

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>>
I really want to get an old cheap macro to try "DSLR" scanning, it seems so much faster than anything else.
Any recs for a good, old manual focus macro that's easily adapted to modern mounts?
I want to use an Valoi Easy35 unless there are better options.
>>
>>4380391
>be you
>buy shitty macro lens
>come back here
>make another post about how shitty your negatives look and that you're just going to keep using your scanner
Just buy a good macro. It's a one-time investment and it makes sure you won't be adding flaws to your negatives
>>
>>4380391
Minolta af 100mm f2.8 macro/minolta af 50mm f2.8 macro

manual aperture control adapters for A mount do in fact exist but they work natively on sony cameras with the appropriate LA-EA# adapter.
>>
>>4380246
tiffs or gtfo
>>
>>4379350
Wait, did I understand this right
There's basically the equivalent of Rownald Mowrey (PE on Photrio) in Ukraine, aliveand well?
>>
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Life is pain. Terrible stain fogging on this one, and the other shot had a bad light leak from somewhere. This one can possibly be saved with a stain removal concotion. I'll probably experiment with it.

I like and dislike this picture. It looks decent printed aside from the hexagons that show up, but my technique definitely could have been better. More learning ahead!

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>>4380193
Nice and based print poster! Not sure if the scan blocked up the highlights, but usually you want at least at least a tiny bit of tone around the entire perimeter of your print. If not your composition sort of gets lost in the borders.

>>4380199
When are we going to see the shot?
>>
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First time shooting ultramax. I like it more than I thought I would.
>>
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>>4380481
>>
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>>4380482

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>>4380478
funny that i got (you)'d twice

honestly, this was the best print i could get. just checked back on the print itself and it looks way darker than the jpg i posted. i usually never touch up my scans but i probably should if downscaling does that much of a difference.

and ill probably develop the negative in a few days. still have one more shot of a landscape but the clouds out here aren't great the past few days.

tried to swing to get only one leaf in focus and i think i did that, although the lighting on my groundglass was super dark since i only go up to f/6.3. did it f/8 at 25 seconds accounting for some failure and also so a shallower depth of field along with the swing should get a great shot of just the leaf.
>>
>>4380251
>:(
>>4380255
>:(
>>4380267
>:(
>>4380281
E100 is beautiful tho when you hit the exposure just right.
>>4380417
>:(
>>
>>4380657
Smile. It's a new day and another opportunity to take some cool pics. :)
>>
what's this shite?
it's visible on the neg and not just the scan
god CURSE safelight berlin I will send them ecn-2 film in c41 canisters
>>
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Hiya everyone, I'm relatively new to film photog (and photog in general) but i got a couple cameras from my parents I've been using and have processed a few rolls.
One of the cameras is a Minolta SRT101, but there's something funny going on with the rewind knob. Figured I'd try ask here to see if it's common at all, simple fix, or not.
Loading film all seems fine but the rewind knob will never start moving on it until the shot counter hits 5. The film is advancing inside but the knob doesn't move until the shots hit that magic number. Rewinding is also a precarious task, it feels like smooth surface mechanical slippage.
Have a shot as thanks.

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>>
>>4380663
scratch on the neg, noob

man the photos in here are fucking awful. what a waste of film
>>
>>4380671
doubt it, unless they've scratched it. all my B&W through that camera came out fine, those 2 C41 rolls got stains like those all over them
>>
>>4380671
Can you post a good one to improve thread quality?
>>
>>4380663
>I will send them ecn-2 film in c41 canisters
looks like someone already did
>>
>>4380663
I use Aperture Film Lab Berlin and so far they've been pretty good, have you tried them?
>>
>>4380665
when you finish loading the film in the camera, wind the knob backwards until its tight.
>>
>>4380665
It's just the slack in the film canister.
>>
>>4380418
Pretty much, yes. Well, technically, he should know a bit more since Mowrey worked on consumer colour film and our Ukrainian PE was in charge of the entire Svema's colour branch, including professional and experimental stuff like LN-9 with remjet. Interestingly, T-grain was reserved for military and DS 100
>>
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>>4380718
>>4380720
Ah yeah I realised what's going on.
Unless I use the force of a thousand suns I can't close the lid as the latch doesn't have a lot of angle at the intersection points and is super stuff so i was needing to lift it up to pull the latch up but that released the spring in the canister from the taught state.

Shot is on 20y expired fujifilm 400.

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>went to an event today as a volunteer
>brought my camera because why not
>partway through event coordinator decrees I'm now the event photographer and want me to send them all the pictures I took
>going back tomorrow and I've already locked myself in to bringing my camera again since I did day one and didn't say no
fuck I hope the shots turn out and I shot enough of all the folks and I didn't only shoot the cute girls and they like my angles and focusing decisions and I've never even gotten a roll of this film developed and now I'm gonna probably burn through another two tomorrow on top of the two today and I don't have social media so I'll have to get a ton of phone numbers or emails fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck
>>
>>4380830
This is your in. Don't fuck it up.
>>
>>4380830
Taking your hobby into an employee job is always the best or very worst decision you can do, work-wise.
Hope you don't get scarred.
>>
>>4380830
>volunteer
>send me the photos you took
>rolls of film
Don't give anyone your photos for free idiot. They are taking advantage of you.
>>
>>4380714
no
to be fair I seldomly shoot C41. I mostly shoot vision3, and those rolls I send to wolczak filmlabor in vienna. he charges 6 eur for ECN dev. B&W I do myself.
I picked safecrap because their large scan was decently priced
>>
>haven't taken a single photo in 4 months due to stress and lack of time
>Have a small 4 day vacation planned with my family next week
>No desire to take a camera and take pics
>Know I'll regret it in the future if I don't

Should I take my simple point and shoot 35mm camera or my hasselblad? I enjoy the hasselblad more when I'm in the mood to take pics, given my current malaise I wonder if I'll see it as too much work and not take any pics with it.
>>
>>4380910
whenever I've felt like that, having to meter and try to guess EV values only made it a bit more annoying. go for your P&S, anon.
>>
>>4380910
Bring the one you like using the most.
The right camera is not always the one most suited for the job.
>>
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>>4380910
Any photo better than nophoto
>>
>>4380910
PnS all the way if it is easier to use, chimping the settings sometimes takes the little mood you have
>>
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an tree or two
>>
>>4380840
It's a local event that is 100% volunteer organized and run so it's not like anyone else is getting paid either. I'm much more concerned that the pictures will just be bad or boring than about making $$ anyway, I hardly photograph people so I was using this as an exercise but it got REAL.
>>
>>4380910
I got a little Canon p&s with zoom to shoot 800ISO color with. Very small and does everything I want. I no longer feel compelled to bring my 35mm or 120 SLRs on trips, saving them just for work.
>>
Have any of you tried developing with bleach bypass?
>>
does unmixed fixer go bad? i've forgot kek
>>
>>4381134
sealed powder? Nah. Liquid? Yes
>>
>>4381148
i've got an opened bottle of tetenal superfix from 2021
i'll just do a fixer test on a piece of leader and see
>>
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Went on a trip to Japan and picked up an Olympus Peenis half frame camera. Have never shot film before, what do you think?

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>>4381223

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>>4381223
Pretty comfy... far better than most.
>>
>>4381223
>>4381224
>Shots :|
>Shots in Japan :O
>>
>>4381234
this but halfframe is actually more relevant now than ever because of dipstitch since single stills cant impress anyone anymore
>>
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>>4381223
Luv me peen-ee snapshits. Simple as.

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>>4381284
[building corner intensifies]
>>
>>4381288
Half frame half building corner. I'm thinking based.
>>
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>>4381288
>>4381290
Have a building corner dick pic complete with black and white rainbow taken on a camera as old as my parents for extra cringe points

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>>4380239
nice one anon
>>
>>4380239
how did you determine the 2 hr exposure time? did you take into account reciprocity?
>>
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>>4381321
So this is my third time doing astro on slide, and I doubled my exposure from a dslr to work out the light needed. Then I used a 1 stop darker exposure for the aurora in May, it turned out, so for this I added another half stop, and doubled the time, since I figured it wouldn't be that bright compared to may.

Reciprocity is weird for astro work on slide I've found, since the stars are moving the emulsion isn't being constantly exposed, the stars move etc. So the exposure math is basically f5.6-f8 for the stars, at ISO 100, and the stars will show up, and any tweaking or adjustment is just for foreground compensation
>>
>>4381329
For reference, this was Velvia 50 at 5.6 for 1 hour, aiming for a similar exposure to my DSLR that was at f4 at ISO 100 for 30mins. Which if you convert the stops over I doubled the exposure time to account for recipro. I found an article I think by this dude who shot only velvia for like 2 decades and his guide was roughly double but stopped at 5mins, so I just ran with it.
Like I said, stars move so are constantly affecting new parts of the emulsion, and the recipro probably helps with keeping the foreground and other non-star stuff from overexposing.
>>
>>4381345
fuck forgot pic, my bad
>>
>usual stores are out of 3.8L D76 packets
>one store has "one per customer" until supply chain is fixed or some shit
>only other one available is 50% more expensive
grim. and no i will not be switching to ilford or some liquid shit
>just make your own from scratch
in a few years i will be when i go way more into the deep end than i already have
>>
>>4381398
why don't you order that german adox d76? it's the same thing but cheaper
>>
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>>4380134
is this error on cineshill, the lab, or me? 400D btw, wouldn't shoot again

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>>
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>>4381508
another example, its occurred mid roll only and for 10 shots the end of the roll was fine

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>>
>>4381508
do you have the negatives yet?
judging by this, it looks like a lab issue. especially if it's mid roll only.
>>
>>4381512
the negatives are in the mail, but ill post them when i get them
>>
>>4381508
>>4381509
looks like part of another negative got laid over the frame, those look like sprocket holes
>>
>>4381519
yes a few of the other images have a clearly outlined sprocket on them, so is this the lab then? and if so what should I do?
>>
>>4381521
call them and say wtf is up with your photos
>>
Would a hasselblad h4D with 39MP back and macro lens be a good film scanning camera?
>>
>>4381562
Not really but at least it isn't a sony.
>>
>>4381565
Why not? Cause ccd? Or is it too bulky?
>>
Just got my Oly OM-2N in the mail, pretty excited to use it after my SP shit the bed. Really small, pretty camera : )
>>
>>4381581
Ummmm, sir. You're supposed to bite your tongue until you actually have pictures to share then you can talk about your cool new camera.
>>
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>>4381581
I hope you shoot some nice stuff with it anon. my mom sent me her old om-2n a few months ago and i've been enjoying it a ton.

>>4381585
i'll post a few of mine in anon's stead
>>
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>>4381586
>>
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>>4381587
>>
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>>4381588
>>
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>>4381589

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>>4381405
interesting, didnt know that was a thing. but i can only get the 1L version here (Australia). i can also get the regular kodak 1L version but using 1L ones is way more expensive than 3.8L and will take me so much longer to mix up etc
>>
>>4381590
lmao based LA paparazzi
>>
>>4380361
>shatbeds also have less color depth and dynamic range than cameras[citation needed]
>>
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I do not understand 800T, it seems wildly inconsistent compared with what my camera meter tells me
>>
>>4381704
spot meter
>>
>>4381704
Because it's iso 500 repacked as iso 800. Attempting to shoot it at iso 800 in dim light ends in almost blank image.
>>
>>4381711
that's not how it works but ok
>>
>>4381717
That's exactly how it works.
>>
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>>4381711
quite the opposite, based on how its performed nightwalking i expected it to be a bit darker especially since I underexposed many shots by a full stop
>>
>>4381719
Then congrats for living in some seriously light polluted areas if you can get decent amount of information on film when shooting handheld at night at iso 1600. My attempts at shooting it handheld at 800 at concert venue with a reasonable for iso 800 setting resulted in mostly transparent roll of film. I was prepared for dark images but not THAT dark.
>>
>>4381720
Same venue and iso 400 color film of other stock resulted in decent for lighting conditions amount of images.
>>
>>4381720
hmmmmm I do wonder why there are different ISO rantings for different lighting conditions for the same film
very curious
makes your noggin joggin
>>
>>4381723
Well, different light sources have own characteristics and many film stocks do not have linear response curve.
>>
>>4381581
>my SP shit the bed
what happened? i was thinking about getting one myself
>>
>>4381720
i get normally dense images shooting with 800 film at f1.2 and 1/30 ish
>>
>>4381776
>f1.2
Explains a lot. I would not consider 1/30 to be handheld shutter speed tho. You can if you don't mind blurring stuff.
>>
>>4381779
1/30 is fine, especially if you dont use a pisslr
>>
>>4381798
1/30 is fine, especially if you dont have arthritis
>>
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I love ektar but it's such a bitch to scan

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>>
what are kellogg's tones like?
>>
>>4381733
The leaf shutter is jammed up with some ancient oil, and the aperture/shutter speed rings are a bit hard to move (probably also the oil). I shot 2 rolls through it before I noticed the shutter wasn't making the right sound, you have to 'shoot' it like 20 or so times until the leaf shutter breaks free and if you let it sit awhile it'd get stuck again. The meter is also fucked. The camera as a whole seems really solidly built, just maintenance issues. Still insanely pissed about it since I paid a premium for it from Kamerastore, assuming that there restored tag meant they'd send me a camera that functioned. Last time I'm buying anything from fins.
>>
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What is /fgt/'s opnion on instant film? I really cannot be fucked dealing with 35mm development, but would like a instant film camera just for funsies.
>Cost per shot is a consideration but not a dealbreaker.
A roll of 35mm Kodak Gold here is about $25 for 36 exposures and is basically the cheapest 35mm film available, for reference.
>pleasing results > gear asthetic > being a cheap cunt about film
To reiterate, no I cannot be fucked using an SLR.

I have a very good digital camera for the majority of my photog, I just want something for travel snapshits more or less.
>>
>>4382038
They're fun and I have no qualms with the medium. If I was extremely wealthy I would shoot expired 8x10 Polaroid for shits and giggles.
>>
>>4382038
>A roll of 35mm Kodak Gold here is about $25
what the fug, where do you like. Antartica? That is a 3 pack of gold over here lmao

Instant film can be fun, and its not that expensive if you shoot instax mini for example, since you are looking for pleasing results it would be probably good enough for you, because while the film is fine most of the instax cameras are auto everything plastic shit.

Or just get a hal frame camera dunno
>>
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>>4382045
>Polaroids
Intrigue me. But look look the be the most expensive instant film here.
>>4382047
>Where do you live?
Australia. $25 AUD, I should say, so I'm guessing something like $15 USD. Still kind of fucked though.
>Instax Mini
Bought my GF one years ago and it's not super expensive, but the:
>auto everything plastic shit
is what puts me off using it myself. Instax have other options I'm aware of that I might look into
>just get a half frame camera
Was considering it for a bit there, they're dirt cheap, but I just plainly don't want to deal with dev

I have also seen Kodak do some instant cameras, but I don't hear anything about them so I assume they're shit.
>>
>>4382058
>>4382047
Auto everything plastic shit is fine for instax IMO. The film does not have much resolution and putting a better lens on will not let you enlarge it any more than with the plastic lens. If you want to do a telephoto lens or something more unusual I could see it.

I have no idea how they get the exposure so close with fixed shutter speed, no meter and only like 4 aperture settings. It's basically slide film so you would expect it to be real finnicky but I rarely get a full black or white image. I guess the flash helps if you use it.
>>
>>4382065
The film has plenty of resolution when not behind a shit lens. I have an Instax 200 and "infinity" is actually 20-30 feet, and the close is 3 or so feet.

When taken at exactly those distances, the photos can be sharp. All other distances - blurry shit.

I just want a decent camera for it that isn't 800 currencies, but I'll probably relent and get the mint rangefinder eventually.
>>
>>4382081
>The film has plenty of resolution when not behind a shit lens
No. It is fine for looking in person but if you scan and enlarge it you'll see there is no more detail than you can see with the naked eye. I modified an instax mini to take very sharp mamiya press lens and there is basically no difference in resolution or sharpness vs the stock lens. Only really good for bokehwhoring.
>When taken at exactly those distances, the photos can be sharp. All other distances - blurry shit.
Honestly skill issue, just position your subjects at the sharp distances.
It would be cool if fuji made 4x5 or larger instax for taking serious pictures. The colors are really great. But since they only make itty bitty film I just use it for what it is, a fun toy and not something worth optimizing quality.
>>
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>>4382099
Bullshit. Instax film is fine, it just has a lot less stops of dynamic range. Use a light meter and a grey card, light everything evenly around the middle grey. Here is a shot using an adapted RZ67 Pro ii and the legendary Sekor 110mm lens. Turned out so nice and painterly. Even the Instax minis are capable of producing great images for a toy if you know how to control light, I will post some examples next that I had in the last recent photo thread.

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>>
Instax mini camera

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Another Instax Mini. Looks fine considering it has a cheap plastic lens.
>>4382099
You just need a proper adapter from somewhere like Brooklyn film co to scan properly and get decent documentation. Then in photoshop to adjust the contrast, sharpness and and color shifts to mirror the original. Never looks as good as the physical print by still is workable.

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>>
>>4382108
the camera is the only mini thing about this shoot
>>
>>4382109
Anon your 0.75 megapixel scans are not exactly selling this as a serious film
Keep in mind the film area on instax mini is bigger than 645. Now compare its sharpness with a 645 scan.
>>
>>4380239
kino
>>
>>4382107
>>4382108
>>4382109
absolutely fucking disgusting
>>
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>>4382107
>>4382108
>>4382109
oh my god, I'm so hungry
>>
>>4382107
>>4382108
>>4382109
Moar sir
>>
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Random question, going to be doing a semester abroad in North Carolina, in Boone, are there any labs worth using nearby or is it all just mailing stuff? And if the latter, what labs do you guys recommend?

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>>4382438
Im in North Carolina, Boone is great, my sister goes to school there. Not sure of any local labs in the Boone area but there are a few in Raleigh but thats like 3 hours away. Honestly I just mail my film to Gelatin Labs up in NJ most of the time. Youre in for some great photo opportunities, the appalachain mountains are beautiful.
>>
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Finally I have a good lightmeter and did some night photos
these came out crazy, there was a fog and strong lights from near stadium and I found this funny pink lantern

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>>
>>4382558
35mm shot in a dim low contrast mess is this crisp at almost 24mp?
>>
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I'm pretty sure this was Ektar shot with Canon EOS 600 and Sigma 400mm f/5.6

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>>4382570
Did you miss exposure and go +6 exposure or are the huge distracting grid lines from scanning on a computer screen for a light source?
>>
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>>4382572
I think it has something to do with post-processing the scans on PSE. On a Plustek scanner it doesn't show the lines, the film exposure was off by a third of a stop. I've used the light source with other rolls of film without the lines.

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>>
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been in Norway recently on a work-trip and shot some night pics
I was pretty inexperienced with low light exposures, but I can recommend you all Gossen Lunasix. This thing is from the late 60's and it's so damn precise, ALL of my night photos are nicely exposed.
Moonrise at midnight, 5min (should have probably shot that for longer for nicer start-rails, but it was literally last frame in the roll and I was dead tired)

>>4382563
Portra 400, 34s at f5.6
it is pretty crisp, but there was quite a lot of ambient light from the stadium
without that, it would be dark as fuck

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>>
>>4382599
>Gossen Lunasix
great meter. none of that crappy nip shit. gossen stuff is the real deal.
>>
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I usually never edit scans, but Midwest Film sends them back extremely flat so I guess I'm gonna have to learn.


Also what the fuck is up with this email verification

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>>
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>>
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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/KVLY-TV_mast

You can see this thing from miles away. The guy wires are thicker than my arm.

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>>4380134

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>>
>>4382631
looks like a shit scan or shit dev (maybe both) not just "flat"
did they give you raws at least? maybe it can be salvaged
>>
>>4382651
The thumbnail looks like a giant kitten's head emerging from the ocean. Kino.
>>
>>4382652
oh that's my edit lol. They give massive tiffs that they scan on a Cintel, so it can be easily edited. And to be fair the film was also expired ECN-2 film as well.
>>
which would be a better mount to get in to for lens selection, nikon or canon?
>>
>>4382677
which ever one you have with you
>>
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I am really liking Lucky film

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>>
>>4382677
fuck canon, nikon is the way to go
>>
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hello large format /fgt/s

my professor just gifted me a fujinon w 180mm 5.6 lens! groundglass is so much brighter than my caltar ii-e 150mm 6.3 i also have for my toyo omega view 45e.

now i need to buy more filters that are sized 58mm haha
>>
looking for a flash that I can tilt for my konica hexar. the metz 30 bct 4 that i've got on my nikon is too big. it covers the lens kek
>>
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My camera is very old.
Ilford HP5 (120 film)
>>
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>>4382809
>>
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>>4382631
>>4382652
>>4382659

Here is the raw file they gave me, clocking in just under 80mb if anyone wants to fuck around: https://files.catbox.moe/whszkr.tif

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>>
A 2x teleconverter combined with bellows macro... Thoughts? 2x at the bellows attachment and this 2x macro? Or 2x on the lens attachment before the lens? Or just a dumb idea
>>
>>4382832
the scene looks kind of tricky, how did it look when you took the photo? looks like some light fog at dusk
what film was this
>>
>>4382841
It was mid morning somewhere in the North Midwest, either the UP or Wisconsin in the summer. It was drizzling for a bit a little later IIRC. This was in 2021 during a large road trip and I should hav taken notes.

Film is expired but decently stored Eterna 250D from QWD
>>
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>>4382832
I tried
It looks like it was a very contrasty scene, the sky is overexposed and the ground seems bit underexposed

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>>4382832
my sorry attempt at editing this
I tried to go for a moody look, seemed appropriate

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>>4382851
okay I might have went a bit too far on the color balance, it's very blue
>>
>>4382835
Pretty retarded because the teleconverter basically cancels out the bellows, and you're going to have long exposure times with the combo.

Longer focal distances need longer bellows to achieve the same magnification and if you're doing 35mm or 120 your bellows length is going to be be fairly limited already.
>>
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some more autumn ektar

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>>4382727
Never tried a fuji lens. You'll have to post some pics. I know there are a handful of highly desirable lenses made by them. I think one of their 360mm lenses is considered legendary.
>>
>>4380187
If you expose undeveloped film to light, it will get fogged. If you can dev it by yourself for little to no cost, try shooting it anyway to see how bad it is. Do not use potentially ruined film for anything important.
>>
>>4383149
I developped a big chunk at school with my teacher and we got to usable film. ill use it to experiment around
>>


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>>
basically random shitty phone pics but taken on film, great
>>
>>4383252
Nice photo you contributed there.
>>
>>4383254
I did contribute before.
>>
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more Norway on vision3

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>>
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Got my most recent rolls developed. Fuji 400 on a PZ10. Nothing too fancy

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>>4383298
Not the best shot I've taken, the fucker kept moving around and fighting crows

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>>4383298
>>4383299
Last one of any particular interest. Beyond this are basically just stuff that could be off my phone

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>>
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>>4383298
LOVE muscovy ducks. Very based image. I'll give it a 9.5/10

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>>4383304
I've always been partial to mallards, but part of that is due to me moving from New York to Florida recently. I'll warm up to them eventually. They've got some gorgeous coloring though

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>>
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>>
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mood

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>>
>>4383317
Like these colors
>>
Damn this thread really died huh? It used to hit bump quicker than others on /p/. It's a wasteland now and the shots are all terrible. I see better shit on Reddit : /
>>
>>4383362
I think there are some pretty good shots itt. I've had a cold and have been pretty busy the past week so no amazing and incredible 8x10 shots to share. :(

Would you mind helping by posting a really great shot?
>>
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I propped my mamiya 6 on something to take this long exposure. Haven't shared it here. I think it's kinda cool, maybe.

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>>4383362
Post some nice shots you've taken anon, I haven't gotten any of my own scans back.
>>
>>4383370
I share this sentiment almost exactly, but I don't have a pass. I dislike that I can't blend into the anonymity as easily as most because only a small handful of people shoot sheet film and no one else shoots 8x10.
It puts pressure on me to try and take/share good images or atleast technically excellent shots. As I've spent more and more time shooting the best format I've ran into a problem where worthwhile shots are increasingly rare and difficult because of the effort required to take a good 8x10 shot. I hauled out over 40lbs of gear to simply not take a shot because the light changed and it was a little too windy. It was worth it because I wanted to look at some compositions I was interested in with certain lenses, but it just didn't work out. The struggle and fun continues.
>>
>>4383372
I like it but I feel like it would benefit from cropping to square to bring the subject close. There is nothing outside of the center area.
>>
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>>4383407
I was going to say I like the empty space top and bottom because it sort of adds to the empty and sad feeling of the picture, but I do see your point about cropping it closer...

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File: minolta.jpg (1.28 MB, 4032x3024)
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just got all of this stuff for $10. my first decent film cam, i've been using a vivtar ic 101 for a bit. so pumped, gonna grab a new battery for it and head out

i've never used filters so any tips would be appreciated

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>>4383604
Yes probably
>>
>>4383598
good shit.
the square filter holders are great, and i think are better than threaded.

these dont look like black and white filters, more like color correction and "effect" filters.
>>
>>4383606
i thought so, it'll be fun to experiment with. it has those two rolls with it, might just gamble with them and try to shoot on them.
>>
>>4383598
>$10
that's one lucky find, congrats
I love Minolta.
>>
>>4380830
>>4380834
>>4380837
>>4380840
>get photos back
>turned out okay, some really nice and some just acceptable
>people I've sent them out to now telling me how much they like them and asking me if they're okay to post to socials/how I want to be credited
I-I did it
>>
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why is this thread so damn dead

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>>
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>>4384169
I have no fucking clue. Gonna dump some photos for fun

These are all 400h
>>
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Overexposed this one and lost a lot of detail in the clouds. Maybe a better scan would help, I don't exaclty trust this lab with MF
>>
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Same roll as the previous ones, but those were in 2023 and I let the camera sit and forgot what was in it. Thought it was Provia so rated this shot at 100. I kinda like how the colors turned out
>>
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On to 35mm! Bought a LC Wide from Goodwill and this was the test roll. Most are trash snapshits

Kentmere 400 at 800

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lol nvm rest of that roll was trash or with people that I dont want to post here.

Have this instead. XA2 with Kent400 at 800

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>>
File: 2024-08-23-0011.jpg (2.52 MB, 3120x4672)
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File: 2024-07-18-0002.jpg (3.8 MB, 4672x3120)
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Ok I've dumped enough.

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>>
And of course some of these aren't rotated. Excuse my retardation
>>
>>4384171
Clearest picture of ufo ever taken. Nice.
>>
>>4384184
it's /p/ so that's only the thumbnail, they're properly rotated when you open them (unlike other boards)
>>
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>>4384174
This is p dope

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>>4384213
I really do wish I had the skillset to shoot photos in black and white. Most of what I take now are just shots that could've just been taken with my phone. I know these things come with time, but still, working a 9-5 and having things around the house to do doesn't give me much opportunity to get out there with my cameras.

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>>
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>>4384185
I know right? But not even the National Enquirer will take it

>>4384204
Ah I see. Silly me

>>4384213
Thanks, that a p sweet shot you got there too

>>4384246
You just gotta get out and shoot shit. Also I find that editing BW gets you a lot more than editing color.

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>>4384246
Just do it dude. After a few shit rolls you'll intuitively start to figure it out. I do majority of my shooting on my walks to/from work. Developing two rolls takes 20min and it's a lot easier to edit than fucking around with colour neg. Bw lifestyle is gud

>>4384259
Thanks anon.

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>>
What's a reliable film camera to get in the current year? I just had the autofocus in my f100 die and I thought about picking up a 1v, but I read that it is fairly common for the shutter motor to die and it's impossible to get replacement parts, so I ruled that out. Any recommendations? Autowinding and autofocus prefered
>>
>>4384492
> I want shitty 90s electronics after shitty 90s electronics died on me lmao
>>
>>4384492
Get and f5 or f6. You have the lenses already, dummy. Why would you switch to canon?
>>
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>>4384494
Yes.
>>
>>4384495
Because I'm not heavily invested in nikon. None of their dslrs really appealed to me, but Canon has a few interesting ones, I figured it could make a nice one mount setup for both my digital/film shooting.
>>
>>4384500
Oh, nice. The 1v is sweet, but you could always get a lesser model for lesser dollar.
I may be retarded, but I think there's a film model they made into the 2010s. The 3 something or the 6??? If you want maximum lifespan get one of those or pay the premium for a NOS 1v. The camera is a joy to use.
>>
>>4384492
Buy a camera that can actually be repaired without sketchy almost-dead donor parts. Every single part in a leica m4 or om1n (except the light meter cells) can be made from scratch using 19th century technology. You dont even need good cells for the om2n or metering leicas, the circuits are below basic and work in manual exposure if power can be supplied. So long as transistors exist.
>>
>>4384508
The 1v has an expected shutter lifespan of 150k cycles. Over 4k rolls of film...
>>
>>4384510
when they're not stored in a shoebox in the attic
ask the f100 guy if theirs died before or after some a gazillion rolls
>>
>>4384500
The 1v was the last film camera canon made. Discontinued in 2018. It has a unchangeable shutter counter, so you can make sure you get one with a low shutter count and enjoy thousands of rolls of film with it.
>>
>>4384508
>wawawa the parts can be made from scratch wawawa
have you made any? or have you had any made?
>>
>>4384514
I replaced a screw on the baseplate
>implying they’ll break in your lifetime
>>
>>4384512
Old mechanical cameras demand cla because all the lube turns into wax, and if you store them in bad spots they'll get screwed up as well.
>>
>>4384517
>anon discovers everything degrades if not properly treated
the thing with old mechanical cameras is that you can repair them by basically disassembling and cleaning them, whereas with modern digital cameras you have dedicated circuits that once they're gone they're gone
buy whatever you want, it's your money, I truly don't care
just know that 90's electronics WILL stop working eventually and turn into beautiful paperweights, whereas with mechanical cameras you can just have proper maintenance and have them work basically indefinitely
I'm not against electronic cameras, I'm just saying you gotta consider these aspects when buying one
if it's worth it for you and you can afford it, go for it
>>
>>4384517
>the CLA: pour naptha on the stuck part
Lol

>>4384522
Early electronic cameras can have their circuirs rebuilt easily. Its all the little motorized parts and one off sensors that you can’t just replace or remake.

A broken gear or lever arm in a mechanical camera can be copied by anyone with a ruler and a file.
>>
The core of the shutter mechanism in an om-1n is made of cloth and string. It has a life of 1k-2k shots but can be repaired with glue, twine, and scraps.

The core of the shutter mechanism in a 1v is a unique custom machined assembly.
>>
>>4384522
The 1v was released in 2000 and made until 2018...

>>4384525
You make it sound far easier than it often is.
>>
>>4384529
I was talking about digital cameras in general and that applies to 2000s and 2010s cameras as well
jesus christ how bad are the American schools in teaching basic text comprehension?
>>
>>4384532
Okay, well get with it, buster. We're talking about the 1v.
>>
>>4384529
If you get a 2018 one it might last unless time and attic temps took its toll on all the plastic gears
>>
>>4384537
>I'm not against electronic cameras, I'm just saying you gotta consider these aspects when buying one
>if it's worth it for you and you can afford it, go for it
do whatever the fuck you want, but I highly recommend you get a cheaper camera and spend the rest on learning how to read
>>
You folks all really need to stop conceptualising cameras as artifacts or investments.
They are mass produced tools.
You buy the one you need, use it until it breaks, and you buy another one if repair is uneconomical.
Do you really think there are enough of us dorks still using this shit to exhaust the world's supply of AF Canikons in our lifetime?
It's not even close to possible.
And then the pants-on-head-retarded logic of leicaphiles
>use the inferior tool for inferior results, because you could theoretically keep using the same one until the the earth crashes into the sun
>oh of course it costs 10x the price of the superior consumable tool, muh quality

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>>4384571
text interpretation must be truly a challenge in the US
>>
>>4384571
>post a photo of a fucking leaf
>ruined by snoy color science
>>
>>4384571
Stickfag is actually based for once.
>>
>>4384571
>they out of production tools that…
>i mean the durable one is inferior yeah!
You will run out of working 1vs before my om1n needs an actual repair
>>
>>4384584
How many shutter actuations are you thinking? How frequently would you need cla before an "actual repair"?
>>
>>4384587
brother just buy your fucking 1v already
>>
>>4384605
That's not me. I bought a pentax instead
>>
I guess this goes here
continued some experimentation with in camera cyanotypes with a 4x5 camera. Coated some fixed darkroom paper and exposed these for about 4 hours
>>
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>>4384646
and I forgot my pic

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>>
I just need to get some cheap extension tubes for "DSLR scanning", then I could start developing and scanning b&w at home with Rodinal. Are there any downsides to stand developing, besides the time it takes?
>>
File: In camera cyanotypes-7.jpg (1.72 MB, 1607x2000)
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>>4384647
and another

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>>
>>4384648
The major downside is that you can get negatives that produce dull or lifeless prints no matter what you do. Split contrast printing and selecting the right developer can help, but it will take you more time to dial in your prints.

Not a concern when editing scans on the computer.

Oh yeah, and you may find the grain unacceptably large.
>>
File: In camera cyanotypes-9.jpg (1.88 MB, 1540x2000)
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>>4384649
and a print of a third, using a backup neg I shot. Interesting the shift in blue at the top

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>>
>>4384649
Isn't there a way to intensify cyanotypes or are you just severely underexposing them?
>>
>>4384652
its underexposed, but there wouldnt be any more dynamic range if I did expose longer. Due to the time and having to sit by the camera, I found the point an image appears and added about 30mins to that. I could expose for a full 12 hour day, but would lose a lot of detail on edges as the shadows moved, and it wouldn't add too much more UV as positioning to catch the bounce from the sun helps more than exposing longer

You can use Borax to darken prints, but it doesn't increase contrast necessarily, and can blur detail.
>>
File: In camera cyanotypes-8.jpg (4.09 MB, 1607x2000)
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>>4384653
I messed around in lightroom with the scans, it helps a little but its hard to replicate this in media without ruining the print

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>>
>>4384653
Have you tried hydrogen peroxide? I would be frustrated with my prints coming out like that.
>>
>>4384650
https://www.35mmc.com/25/11/2023/development-tests-rodinal-2001-and-re-used-4001/

grain seems to be no issue
>>
>>4384657
It depends on your film and exposure. Rodinal is a large grain, high accutance type developer.
>>
>>4384655
Not yet, if I decide to continue this series Ill look into improving the results in the wash step. My main focus though is getting a more even consistent coating so I can adjust exposure more easily, it's been a bit different every time
>>
>>4384659
I see, will be interesting to experiment with different types of film. I am especially curious about XP2 since you can use different speeds when shooting one roll, from 50 to 800. I hope that'll work with Rodinal.
>>
>>4384663
If you stand dev you can do that with almost any film within reason. XX can be shot anywhere from like 100-3200 on the same roll and stand devved.

You can develop different rolls of films at the same time as well. It's nifty stuff, but it can provide poor results somewhat randomly. If you have large chunks of highlights you can get severe bromide drag on some films.
>>
>>4383362
> I see better shit on Reddit
Then go back.
>>
>>4384661
Looks like you're brushing the emulsion on. Have you tried using the glass rod technique? When I feel brave enough and have a few grand burning a hole in my pocket I'll be doing plat/palladium prints and they suggest using a glass rod to evenly coat your paper. Same with salt prints. It's a different, more even look than brushing at least.
>>
https://www.alexiskennedyphotography.com/blog/2014/12/13/tutorial-rodinal-stand-development

oh my
>>
File: 20240515_180835.jpg (993 KB, 1565x2142)
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>>4384668
This is xx rated at like 1600, but the exposure is probably more like 3200 because I was using an underpowered flash. Stand dev. Super grainy. 8x10 print.

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>>
File: Untitled47.jpg (2.3 MB, 3952x2659)
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>>4384668
This is XX at 200,I think, same stand development.

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>>
>>4384672
looks good to me
>>
File: Image 202.jpg (2.27 MB, 2404x3433)
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>>4384668
And XX at 25 using a 1+100 rodinal for 3 minutes. You can see how much variance in grain you get depending on your exposure.

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>>
>>4384674
3 minutes with 1+100?
>>
File: Image 89 (1) (1).jpg (4.9 MB, 2932x4360)
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>>4384673
I like shooting XX rated at 800 the most. It has really pleasant grain, actually has some contrast to the negative, and 800 let's me use high shutter speeds and decent apertures.

You'll have to mess around with whatever film you use, but I would guess most quality traditional grain films will act somewhat similarly, not fomapan tho. Never trust fomapan.

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>>
>>4384676
What about Kentmere?
Costs about the same here.
>>
File: Image 215.jpg (3.89 MB, 4360x2934)
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>>4384675
Yep. The negative came out a little thin, so 5 minutes would probably work better. Someone on here tried 4 and they said the neg was too thin as well.

Here's another.

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>>
File: Image 10 (1).jpg (3.37 MB, 2661x2551)
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>>4384677
Never shot it before. I am boring and only really use tmax 100 and bulk loaded XX for 35mm shooting.

This is what underexposed foma400 in 6x6 looks like with a stand dev...

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>>
>>4384667
yeah that's the plan if I continue, but don't have a glass rod and in my wee corner of the world theyre a bit expensive
>>
>>4384680
Maybe beg a local glassblower to make you one or trade him a couple pics.
>>
File: DSC07110editSMBDR.jpg (1.14 MB, 1600x1600)
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>>4384648
Why stand developing? I've been loving Kodak Tmax developed for pushing XX and FP4 2-3 stops. Dev times are 12-15min.

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties:
Image-Specific Properties:
Image OrientationTop, Left-Hand
>>
>>4384804
>Why stand developing?
Because it seems fool proof.
Sincerely, a fool.
>>
File: rodinal.jpg (226 KB, 1424x804)
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>>4384804
anything but stand dev for b&w is just masturbation
>>
>>4384826
>shooting film
>posting on 4chan
>caring about economical viability
lmao
>>
>>4384808
It is not entirely fool proof.

>>4384826
Nothing really matters if you only scan your film, bro.
>>
File: 619055.jpg (92 KB, 1280x723)
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>Make my own rodinal
>develop everything in 1:25
>>
>>4384863
>It is not entirely fool proof.
How can you fail?
>>
>>4384865
Your negs can become too flat in some situations, and you can get negative ruining bromide drag if you shoot bright skies with the wrong film.

I've never experienced noticeable uneven development from stand, but apparently it is a thing. Often times uneven development is very difficult to spot because the scene and subject hide it well.
>>
>>4384868
I will simply shoot nothing but mundane subjects so it won't really matter if anything goes wrong during development.
>>
>>4384869
Nice. You can always call your development errors artistic flair, lo-fi, or lomographic technique.
>>
My first film camera came in yesterday, an OM-2S. I'm excited to take it out on its first shoot this week.
>>
>>4384889
Great camera choice anon. Hope you have fun.
>>
>>4384891
Thanks anon. I really like how compact it is. I'm sure my first roll will be mediocre, but I'm already enjoying the more deliberate process. It's gonna be a fun journey.
>>
>>4383408
I agree with you in this example and prefer the uncropped version, cropping as achieving either increase in focus or loss of information, I think this is an example of the latter even if that information is the emptiness itself
>>
>>4384808
don't be lazy
agitate your tank like a man
>>
File: 31A_1107.jpg (2.41 MB, 2996x2000)
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>>4384259
>>4384389
I'll have to start going out on the weekends I guess. I have a pond at my apartment complex with some ducks, but unfortunately the Orlando area isn't the most conducive to walking places. Maybe I can find park or something.

Also what fucking donut decided a 15 minute captcha was acceptable??

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>>
NEW THREAD
>>4385070
>>4385070
>>4385070
>>4385070
>>4385070
>>
File: R1-00421-003A.jpg (1.44 MB, 3564x2408)
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I need to buy some cheap black and white film to practice with, whats the consensus here on fomapan 400?

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
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>>
>>4385072
>whats the consensus here on fomapan 400?
there's no consensus here about anything
but foma is known to get curly after developed and can be a pain in the ass to scan and to store
in my opinion Kentmere is infititely superior and can be found for pretty much the same price depending on where you are
>>
>>4385072
Fomo is fine but weird and people think 400 is actually a 200 iso film.

Like >>4385075 said, just get Kentmere
>>
>>4380134
Can anyone recommend a color film that's pretty grainy in 35mm? I mean something that feels like an 80s color film formulation
>>
>>4384894
Yeah the Olympus cameras are extremely neat. I have an OM-4Ti/OM-2SP and an OM-10 and have to say the OM-4Ti and the OM-2SP are one of my favorite cameras I've ever handled.



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