some 3 weeks ago I posted about thinking of getting into large format in the middle of the next year or so, but fuck it I think I'll do it next month or the other
>Toyo Omega View 45D (4"x5")
>Nikkor 180mm
>maybe a Schneider Angulon 90mm along with it
>a sturdy tripod
>some 3 or 4 plate holders
>Kodak Tri-X 320
am I forgetting something? is there anything else I should consider?
I'll also buy some trays for development, seems easier to use than the Paterson adapter and I can develop 4 or 6 sheets at the same time
I'll get a loupe for focusing as well, and... is that it?

p.s.: thanks to all the people who helped me a couple weeks ago, I got hyped up and want to get into large format as soon as possible

>>4384908
I saw comparisons, agitating more often yields better contrast and as stand development gives very flat results it's probably a good thing to do it more than just at the beginning and 30 minutes mark. I will have to experiment with this but I am thinking shorter development time and a couple more agitations might be ideal. But I guess then it's not stand development anymore.

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Gonna dump a couple more photos to get the thread started

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I was drunk 90% on this trip to New Orleans. I'm surprised I got any decent photos

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The fog was kind of a cheat

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>>4385073
Chemistry
Viewing blanket or reflex binocular accessory(highly, highly recommend)
Shutter release

An app or something to time your development in the dark. There's probably free ones you can find. The massive dev app is pretty handy if you don't mind the cost.

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And one on to HP5+ at 800

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>>4385084
>Chemistry
Already have it
>Viewing blanket or reflex binocular accessory(highly, highly recommend)
was thinking of just using an old black hoodie or a black microfiber towel, would it be enough?
>Shutter release
Got 2 of them, a short one and a long one
>An app or something to time your development in the dark
I've got the massive dev app, it's pretty good indeed

Am I good to go?

>>4385082
>I'm surprised I got any decent photos
feel free to post those

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>>4385086
Yeah, should be good to get started.

Having a second ground glass holder that uses a piece of clear float glass instead of ground glass is something I need to have in my kit. When you use a loupe with it it let's you focus much more precisely than just using a loupe on normal ground glass. It makes the whole process of taking a photograph much more annoying, but you can achieve critical focus mich more reliably, so maybe hold off on that until you feel a need for it.

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>>4385089
>a piece of clear float glass
Is this just regular clear glass? can I just cut whatever clear glass I have lying around?
Does it need to be the same width of the ground glass or is the thickness of it irrelevant?
and do I need a second glass holder or are the glasses easily interchangeable?
Also the 90mm Schneider seems to be mounted on a slightly smaller lens board
Would it be easy to just make a lens board with some tools? I'm not sure if I'm just being dumb but the lens board looks like just a piece of wood with a hole in it

>>4385101
>lens board
Yes, but try to get a nicely flat piece of wood, and try to center the hole well. Ebay will have Toyo lens boards you can buy as well. The holes to fit lenses are mostly standardized.
You can also 3d print lens boards if you have one.

>clear glass
Before I got 2 8x10 ground glass holders I would carefully lay a loose ground glass over the clear glass in my gg holder. It would project a blurry image, but I could do my framing with it. Not ideal.
You can just cut any old glass to make it fit, but you need to be sure that your loupe is focused to the inner face of the glass. The side closer to the lens where the film plane is.

I would say to try using the clear glass and see how it feels for your shooting style then get a second glass holder if you like it. It's really quite interesting to use. You can clearly see diffusion, aberration, atmospheric effects, how DoF is more a gradual shift into focus than a hard shift etc. It's extremely bright, and the resolving power is strangely higher than you can get with film. It basically turns your camera into a telescope/microscope depending on your setup. Good for learning.

>>4385102
Cool, thanks for the help
I'll get a clear glass as soon as I get the camera and everything

>>4385103
Nice. It's a real pain in the ass to use, but youll get used to it eventually.
Looking forward to seeing what you think about it.

>>4385089
I have bosscrean on my sinar
its some kind of paraffin wax sandwiched between two pieces of glass
it's very good for focusing with lupe

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First time developed tmx in hc-110 (dillution H) and I like it.

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>>4385125

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>>4385127

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>>4385070
I think I'm going to get a 500CM - anybody got one and have anything that pisses them off about it?

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>>4385072
i think my favorite might be foma 100
400 is quite grainy at 35mm, go for it if you like that
speeds are more like 300 iso for 400, 150 for 200 and 80 for 100

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>>4385125
Looks good. HC110 is great, though I always stuck with dilution b for things.

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>>4385145
God, I love that.
Great photo, nice vibe.
So is that Fomapan 400?
Looks very grainy but it's unfortunately not a very sharp scan.

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>>4385151
here is Foma400 shot at 320, developed in rodinal
negative gets very grainy and thin

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>>4385152
I don't mind the grain, as long as you don't print big or pixel peep it's not much of an issue IMO.

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First (clumsy) attempt at "DSLR" scanning.
Was hand-holding the camera and I don't have a negative holder yet.

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This was scanned on my 25 years old film scanner from 35mm film.
Why should I upgrade to DSLR/mirrorless scanning?

>>4385178
Because it's faster and gives better results. Not worth it if you don't already own a DSLR for other reasons though.

>>4385178
What you think is grain is actually digital scanner noise.

Dedicated scanners, even the flextight x5, perform worse than cameras. Drums were replaced by medium format digital.
Camera scanning has as much dynamic range as the film. Its as close to doing real darkroom work as you can get digitally.

Might be a lost cause- anyone know how to remove or clean up lenses with deteriorating coatings? I have a 40 year old camcorder that has bad fogging and messed up lens coatings on it, and I think it might be better to just remove the coatings entirely if I can. Tips?

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>>4385243
disassembly it first and clean it with isopropyl alcohol thoroughly if you haven't tried it first

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>>4385314
Gorgeous

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>refurbishing busted olympus pen ee
>replace melted light seals with brand new ones
>shoot a test roll, 71 of the 72 photos come out fine
>inexplicably there's a single photo smack dab in the middle of the roll with a light leak
scratching my head over this shit.
here's one of the nicer photos off the roll, excuse the cheap lab scan. shooting with this camera is my first foray into filmfaggotry and it's already completely sold me on the whole analog paradigm.

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>>4385327
A budget cam is what got me into it, started with an H35, and was left my grandpa's PZ10 after he passed.

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>>4385327
welcome, brother
prepare your pockets and have a nice time
and never turn your hobby into work or else you'll just fucking hate it
and don't let gearfaggotry get in the way of actually fucking shooting
there's my two cents

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>>4385070

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>>4385341
idk why this has SO MUCH GRAIN. it's not so grainy on my monitor before exporting. although it is 30 year expired hp5 pushed 2 stops.
pic unrelated

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>>4385343
That looks a lot like reticulation.

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>thread theme
related, I've been enjoying this cobbled together vivitar 28-210 zoom + 2x teleconveter to shoot some local birds and critters. it goes past infinity in focusing, and at anything other than very close distances its kinda soft and nailing the focus is pretty difficult. the vivitar has a "macro" focusing mode which has yielded surprisingly decent results as well.

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I shot some smaller formats for the first time in a while. Felt really good to take some more leisurely photos. Finally sacked up and tried my pyro developer on something other than sheet film as well. Something went terribly wrong and ruined most of the shots, but there are a couple amazingly sharp images. Here is one. I'll try pre-soak next time. Rollei rpx 100, mamiya 6 + 50mm lens.

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>>4385352
Here is a boring example of what went wrong. Anyone got a clue what it could be? It seems too severe to just be bubbles adhering to the film, but maybe it is?

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>>4385353
Oops. Pic.

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>>4385354
I'm not sure but yeah, looks like it could be bubbles
how did you develop it? stand dev? agitation?

>>4385355
Rotary processed. I figured the rotary action would have prevented bubbles, but I guess not...

I will try again soon.

>>4385356
You're more used to tray developing, I suppose
The rotation movement is not fast enough go get rid of the bubbles, and they're too tiny so they won't just float because they cling to the film surface
I've never used rotors but I prevent bubbles by bumping the base of the tank on the counter a couple times
Try doing that before leaving the tank on the rotary thing and you'll probably have no problem
Unless those are not bubbles, but it looks like they are

>>4385360
Rotary is relatively new to me. I know to smack the tank for non-rotary developing. Silly of me to think I didn't need to do it this time. Oh well, now we all know..

>>4385185
How does colour film grain look like when enlarged?

>>4385243
I have a lens that I am going to remove the damaged coating on soon so I'll let you know how it goes, but from looking into it I found some cinematography magazine that used Cape Cod brand metal polishing cloths to do it without damaging the glass based on consulting people in the lens making industry, which I will be trying. Another option, which I think is a lot riskier is using Cerium Oxide, which is commonly used to polish windshields on cars. Cerium oxide actually removes glass though, so if you are not careful it could be possible to alter the shape of the lens and change its performance. Both of these are pretty time consuming options, expect around 30 minutes to an hour of hand polishing.

>>4385273
Tried this on the degradation on the front of the lens, didn't work.
>>4385534
Thanks for the tips!

I have two very stupid questions about LF photography
>at what height do you usually have your camera on a tripod?
I want to buy a sturdier tripod than the one I have, and for MF I generally have the camera at 1,50m – 1,65m [4'11" – 5'5"] maybe, but they have waist level viewfinders
the angles in the photos look natural, but I was thinking if it would be better to have a tripod that reaches 1,80m – 1,95m [6' – 6'4"] for me to have the camera comfortably at my eye level. I'm 1,75m [5'9"] btw (it's just that the ones I've been looking get to 1,80m – 1,95m)
>can I contact print by just putting the negative over the photo paper and then turning the light on in my bathroom for the right amount of tike instead of using a proper enlarger lamp with a condenser etc.?
This one is pretty dumb, I guess, but broadly speaking: is there a way to make contact prints without proper equipment?

>>4385595
>tripod height
Get one that remains sturdy while going to 6 feet or above. You will want it at one point or another and you can always stand on a box. Remember that some view cameras gain height from their mount, and a swivel/geared head will add height also.

>contact print
You can do that, BUT your contact print will be soft shit. You need a contact printing frame or a means of applying pressure to the film/paper/glass sandwich. 20ish lbs is probably ideal.
Get Adox Lupex paper if you really want to give contact printing a shot. It is silver chloride emulsion and is about 8x less sensitive than normal paper. This means you could be looking at 2s-10s exposures with bathroom light rather than a literal split second.
It's roughly a contrast grade 3, so try and get your negatives under control before using the paper or you may be sad. Also amidol developer + silver chloride paper makes the most beautiful silver gelatin prints in existence. Start off with something else to learn the ropes and test because it is expensive and amidol stains everything, and is a contact poison.

>want to develop a few rolls
>fixer is exahusted
>new fixer still on the mail
reee why is fixer not just easy to make at home like developer

>>4385596
I forgot mentioning I'd be putting a glass over the negative it to be flat
I already have some Foma paper lying around, so I'd go with that first, but I'll look into that Adox paper + amidol combo, although it might be hard to find where I live
I actually have access to my old university's lab, but lately I just don't have time to go there
I have to go there and re-learn how to print stuff because it's been quite some time since I've last done that
>and amidol stains everything
good to know
>and is a contact poison
what the fuck
I have to handle it with gloves at all times?

>>4385599
Always keep 2 bottles of fixer. Always.

>>4385600
Yeah you want to have the glass be a few inches larger than the negative and put weights on the corners, or ideally evenly apply pressure from the back using springs like in a contact printing frame. The glass alone does not weigh enough to make sharp contact prints.

>amidol
Yeah, you really want to wear gloves and have proper ventilation when using amidol. It's kinda nasty stuff. Oh yeah and it only has a 3-4 hour working life after mixing. :D
Buuut for all that it is incredible to print with. I find it more intuitive to use than conventional paper + developer combos. The development is a totally flat curve, so highlights and shadows all come in at the same time rather than the shadows coming in first then the highlights slowly bake in like normal paper. Under and overexposure look completely different from conventional papers.

Back in the day they used to say you weren't a real photographer if your hands weren't stained from developing prints in amidol lol. All of Weston's prints were silver chloride + amidol.

>>4385599
You can use salt brine (like 30%) as substitute. Clearing film takes several hours or days depending of film and temperature (warmer is faster). Never bothered to try it myself.

>>4385600
Forgot to ask what format you want to contact print.

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>>4385608
Is Harman Pheonix naturally this contrasty or did the lab shit up the scan? This was scanned on a Noritsu.
Today I'm picking up my own film scanner and planning on trying to rescue this roll as it's currently far too contrasty (and yellow).
The shots that I rated at ISO 100 did seem to come out much more usable though, so that's interesting.

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>>4385649
For comparison, this one was metered at ISO 100.

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>>4385651
Another sample at ISO 200. What the fuck.

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>>4385608
I'll be shooting 4"x5"
Apparently I can't find amidol where I live, but I can import it from abroad, I just don't know if the postal service would transport something which is essentially poison lol
Will have to check that out
After preparing it I have to use in 2-3 hours, but is the shelf life decent? How long does it last in solid state?
Thank you for helping, man

Are Hasselblads worth the hype?

>>4385660
Nice. The smaller size limitation is a fun challenge. 1:1 still life kinda stuff is quite nice when printed.

Unmixed amidol lasts forever. You mix powdered amidol into a stock solution then dilute with water into a working solution each time you want to print.

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>>4385649
Phoenix is hard to scan, it can look much better with different scanner/settings

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>>4385691
>The smaller size limitation is a fun challenge
my brother in Christ, 4x5 looks fucking HUGE to me
I don't think I'll ever get into the 8x10 hype because I don't have and don't like cars, and there's no way I lugging an 8x10 camera by bike kek
I'm planning on getting a 180mm lens and a 90mm one, from what I've gathered I believe I can do 1:1 macros with the bellows being around double the lens' focal distance, so 360mm for the prior and 180mm for the latter
I was interested in doing some macros indeed
Are longer lenses better for that or the other way around? Should I use the 90mm or the 180mm for macros?
>Unmixed amidol lasts forever
Ah, great
>You mix powdered amidol into a stock solution then dilute with water into a working solution
a stock solution like what? can I dilute it in Rodinal? Sorry if I'm being dumb, I'm not sure I follow

>>4385685
No
For the same price you can get a Mamiya RB67 AND a TLR (Rolleiflex, Yashica, whatever)
Mamiya lenses are amazing – a camera shop owner told me he had a Mamiya before and now shoots a Hasselblad, and he said Mamiya's lenses were way better and sharper
And if you want to shoot 6x6, a Rolleiflex or any other good TLR will also deliver amazing image quality
The good thing about the Hasselblad is that it's very small compared to a Mamiya, and it has all of the benefits of being an SLR over a TLR
Hasselblads are expensive, its extra backs are expensive, its lenses are expensive
So even if you can afford one, you'll take some time to get an entire system with backs and lenses (unless you spend a lot of money)
And you're stuck with 6x6
I love my RB and having a TLR along with it allows me to shoot 6x7, 6x4.5 and 6x6
In the end it's a matter of personal taste and what suits your style of shooting, but I would never change my RB for a Hasselblad

File: Test.jpg (4.54 MB, 5122x3468)

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>>4385697
Much better results scanning it by myself for sure.

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>>4385707
Nice

>>4385701
Citric acid solution + potassium bromide solution + amidol powder + water = working solution.

I think 4x5 film holders are so cute now. Unless you fall in love with contact printing sticking with 4x5 is a good decision because you can always enlarge them later on. 8x10 enlargers are expensive and somewhat rare these days...

You can get superlight 8x10 field cameras, but they are VERY expensive.

>macro
90 and 180 are good focal lengths for macro. Longer lenses just mean your camera will be further from your subject. Remember to bring a measuring tape for your bellows compensation!

>>4385706
thanks

>>4385779
8x10 contact prints must be superb, but I think it's just not my thing, really
and the cameras, lenses and film are proihibitively expensive (4x5 will be expensive enough for me)
btw the 90mm lens is attached to a Linhof lensboard, and I'll buy me a Toyo camera which uses a 158mmx158mm lensboard
I'll buy everything from the same shop, would it be reasonable to ask them if they could change the lens from one lensboard to another?
I'd really like that lens, but buying a Linhof to Toyo lensboard adapter sound like too much work for something that seems to be literally just a fucking metal board
how hard would it be to make a lensboard by myself?
is it really just a metal sheet with a hole in it and then painted black? if so I can do that in 20 minutes instead of spending $80 (why the fuck is it so expensive? am I missing something?)

>>4385827
update: forget about the whole lensboard stuff because I just found out the image circle is way too small
it can cover the whole negative but it fits just right, so I can't have any movement
if anyone has any recommendations on 90mm lenses with a big enough image circle (around 220mm, more or less) please let me know

>>4385827
8x10 will always be there waiting for you. You'll feel the temptation once you start contact printing. The prints are absolutely stunning, but 8x10 is a big step up in difficulty compared to 4x5. Certain people gave me shit when I said it had a learning curve over 4x5. It really does, but you can only really understand once you take on the challenge of using the best format...

You may be able to do an exchange/trade for the lensboard and give them a little cash for the more expensive board. You can pretty easily make one out of wood if the toyo mounting system is friendly to it.

Were you looking at a 90mm super angulon and it didn't have enough projection?

>>4385827
I wanted to make a joke about breaking /p/ with this post, but just look at how ridiculous 8x10 can be. Even if this crop is only 5-8MP equivalent that would mean the full negative is from 400-640MP. Shot at f64 lmao. >>4385065 Now imagine 800MP of resolution crammed into an 8x10 print. That's what 8x10 contact printing achieves at the highest level without even considering anything like Dmax...

>>4385889
>8x10 will always be there waiting for you
maybe one day if I get a car at last hahaha
>You may be able to do an exchange/trade for the lensboard and give them a little cash for the more expensive board
Yeah I was considering doing just that, but I don't know if they'd have the proper lensboard with the right hole size and all
>You can pretty easily make one out of wood if the toyo mounting system is friendly to it
from what I've seen it looks pretty simple, could be easily made out of wood or aluminum indeed
>Were you looking at a 90mm super angulon and it didn't have enough projection?
Exactly
I mean, it does have enough projection if you're shooting it normally, but you can't have any movements
The image circle is a tiny bit wider than the negative itself
I was thinking of the Nikkor 80 but it seems a bit expensive for now since I'll buy everything else at once, but I can save for that for a near future
It would be nice to have the 180mm as a general purpose lens, and a wide angle one like the 80mm for architecture, landscapes/cityscapes etc.

>>4385895
90mm is so wide you may not need much movement from it. You can just rely on aperture for your DoF. Look at a DoF chart for 4x5 and you may see it will work okay for most of your use cases.
You won't need movements for every shot if you're only doing 4x5. I have a 90mm super angulon and I haven't run into much trouble from it because it has been used for mostly landscapes, which don't require a lot of movement.

>>4385890
how would my post have broken /p/?
lol I don't get it
I remember that photo, I even saved it on my computer because it was mindboggling
Extremely well done
I wrote a long ass critique on that as well
Would love to see a contact print of it, and would love to see it enlarged to the size of a fucking house
>800MP of resolution
there's always debate on how much megapickles there are blabla but even if it's not 800, even if it's 400 or whatever, can you imagine that?
if you go to an iMax movie the images are already beautiful when projected on a huge screen, you can clearly see every detail in a scene
Now think of the size of an iMax negative and how tiny it is compared to a 4x5 sheet
And then imagine 4 times that area
THAT is an 8x10
8x10 has more than 15 times the surface area of imax format

>>4385896
>90mm is so wide you may not need much movement from it
is whole tilting movement for distortion correction this subtle?
precisely because it's so wide I was thinking maybe I'd be doing lots of movements to have very long/tall buildings in focus
For landscapes I believe it would be ok, but wouldn't it be limiting for tilting and getting huge buildings with no perspective distortion, or having them at an angle with the focal plane following their full length?

>>4385898
I meant that "full res" crop of my 8x10 scan in context to that thread not your post. I just think it's funny how much talk there was about large format being shit in that thread then I post a shitty scan of one of my negatives and all the know it alls are scared to even put a number on my cropped image. 2 whole days and nothing...
It's hard to imagine a 10 foot print with less than visible grain let alone a 30-50 foot print that barely has visible grain lol. That crop is smaller than a 35mm frame, and 35mm can look good up to 16x20 or more depending on film and lens...

I'll send you some of my silver chloride contact prints if want. Idk how but I'm down with it.

>>4385901
I have almost zero experience with architectural photography. Maybe someone else can help you. D:

>>4385904
>I meant that "full res" crop of my 8x10 scan in context to that thread not your post.
AH got it
sorry, I'm sleepy and my brain didn't process that properly
>I'll send you some of my silver chloride contact prints if want. Idk how but I'm down with it.
I'd appreciate that a lot!
idk send me a message on instagram, it's gabriel_breschau
I live abroad but of course I'd pay for shipping expenses etc.

>>4385911
Okay. You'll know it's me. :D

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>my feet hurts
>I wish I was back on Silent HIll

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Got home from Singapore.

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>>4385599
You can use pool or spa chlorine remover that is made of…. I think sodium thiosulfate. Search for that plus “fixer” and you’ll find the ratio. I’ve done it once, it works but I was also fucking around with caffenol, I wouldn’t say they were the best images I ever developed but I don’t know how much of that is down to the homemade fixer and how much to the caffenol. If it’s photos you care about I probably wouldn’t say dive right in but if you’re not super gutted if they don’t work it might be an option.

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I loved and saved the following
>>4385145
feels like the pacific northwest, takes me right back
>>4385349
this one feels like a shoegaze album cover and i like it
>>4385652
looks like the sky is on fire and the world is ending
>>4386001
simply beautiful

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Sometimes it's hard to nail a focus with this thing
but the camera is adorable

>>4386062
FINGERLESS GLOVES
I
N
G
E
R
L
E
S
S

G
L
O
V
E
S

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autumn portra

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>>4386069
nta but it's clearly a long sleeve sports tshirt with a thumb hole...

>>4386108
this
still as cringe, but from a different flavour

>>4386069
I wear them so I can easier manipulate my camera settings, what's wrong with that?

>>4386173
I don't believe someone who dresses like the caricature of a young person as imagined by a boomer has the aesthetic sense and awareness to produce a good photograph, sorry

>>4386174
What if I am a boomer tho?

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maybe the good photos are the friends that we made along the way

>>4386176
police ranger looks so lonely :(

>>4386177
he is literally me

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Some shits from the far east.

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>>4386277
that's a nice looking cloud
looks so 3 dimensional

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Last one.

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flying for turkey day and going to bring some of my film autism home, I haven't ever flown with a film camera before, what should I expect? I have all the gear/film in a separate small carry-on packed pretty snugly, and I know to avoid the CT machine since it'll fog my film. any other tips or experiences that I can learn from?

>>4386289
Take out film from packaging and put them in Ziploc. pray that they'll be cool with it. you'll be traveling during a peak season so there's a higher chance they might not want to deal with it or they'll make you wait a long time sonbe there early. find out what kind of scanners are being used in the airports you'll be flying thru.

>>4386289
buy and develop your film in country

>>4386296
Good idea, I had my rolls out of the main packaging and in the clear plastic capsules in the front pouch of my camera bag but a ziploc or something is better probably.

>>4386297
I'm flying from the West Coast back to the Gulf Coast, though it will feel like a different country in some ways it is still the US. One big difference however is that despite living in big city the nearest camera/film store that isn't target or CVS will be an hour drive one way and it's website has zero 800 speed film which I am in need of since I'm planning to shoot bellows macro and also with a cobbled together teleconverter+zoom setup. Maybe the target or the drug store will have some fuji 200/400 which would be usable for other stuff obviously but suboptimal for catching a bird in flight or peeping cool bugs.

>>4386101
Aaaaand that's my new wallpaper. Where was this taken? Looks like a spot I go in upstate NY

I got a TLR as my first film camera and shot a couple rolls but never got them developed. I live nowhere close to a lab (2+ hours) and live on septic so I'm intimidated by home dev. What options do I have? Portable sink with a bucket where I collect waste water? If I rinse for a couple minutes that's a ton of water. Do I just say fuck it and mail them to an online lab?

>>4386357
You can do an online lab if want.

This is sort of bad advice, but you can just dump most types of spent developer on the ground. If you use high dilution rodinal the amount of chemistry you're dumping is basically inconsequential.

Fixer is a different story and you should just get a 5 gallon water jug and dump that in once it is spent. It will take you months to fill it up then you can either collect the silver or drop it off at your local dump. Do not pour fixer into your septic or on the ground. I think it's actually illegal in most places and it will fuck your septic.

Do not dump selenium toner either.

As for excess water useage you can fill and rinse your dev tank 7-10 times and that will clean your negs well enough. Warm, but not hot water cleans negatives faster also.

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I don't shoot color often, but when I do, I might as well have been shooting b&w anyway

>>4386357
color or b&w?
There is a one-shot developer called black/white & green that is supposed to be less toxic than something like rodinal. I have no idea if the claims of low toxicity are legit or not, but it makes good negatives.
For reusable developer, fixer and color chemicals you don't just pour them down the drain since you want to reuse them. Of course a little bit goes down the drain in the rinse water but I don't think a few drops is a big deal. Once the chemicals are spent you put them in a milk jug by the water heater where they'll stay until you sell the house and then be somebody else's problem. At least that's what I do.

>>4386277
>>4386282
>>4386284
>>4386285
these are pretty sweet

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>>4385183
>>4385185
>I went back and reshot the negative with my D850/60mm combo to make sure focus was tack sharp. Here is a side by side, DSLR on the left (60mm F/8, ISO 64, 1/8 sec), Coolscan on the right (ISRD, ME turned on):
camera scanning for higher quality is an influencer scam

>>4386642
>no pixel shift
Try again

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>>4386644
>you need to use at least GFX 100 II otherwise it's not a fair comparison

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>>4386571
Thanks, have a sunburst.

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Image Height	10127

File: R35KNT4SG24.jpg (1.58 MB, 1333x2000)

1.58 MB JPG

Also a bit of bloom for good measure.

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Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment Make	Plustek
Camera Model	OpticFilm 8200i
Camera Software	GIMP 2.10.6
Image-Specific Properties:
Image Orientation	Top, Left-Hand
Horizontal Resolution	44 dpi
Vertical Resolution	44 dpi
Image Created	2024:11:20 21:14:42
Image Width	6767
Image Height	10127

File: R35KNT4SG16.jpg (1.58 MB, 2000x1285)

1.58 MB JPG

Wanted to shoot from the gazebo as it had a better view but a Bangla was sleeping there. A pretty high ranking one at that, because he even had a bicycle, so probably a foreman. As it turns out, in Singapore there is no shady spot where at least one Bangla wasn't sleeping on a piece of cardboard.

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Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment Make	Plustek
Camera Model	OpticFilm 8200i
Camera Software	GIMP 2.10.6
Image-Specific Properties:
Image Orientation	Top, Left-Hand
Horizontal Resolution	44 dpi
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Image Created	2024:11:20 20:42:09
Image Width	10175
Image Height	6719

>>4386789
>Bangla
is that a hobo?

File: IMG_6359.jpg (1.4 MB, 2416x2380)

1.4 MB JPG

I’m the guy who was kinda in a slump about photography. Was going to take my point and shoot on vacation but didn’t even have 35mm film. So I lugged around my rollei. While I didn’t get many amazing shots (I had a child in one arm for ~90% of every pic I took) I did get a few decent pics of my wife and kids. Also my first time shooting XX film however I still think ilford ortho 8 is my favorite black and white.

>ilford ortho 80

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Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment Make	NORITSU KOKI
Camera Model	EZ Controller
Camera Software	Adobe Photoshop Lightroom Classic 14.0.1 (Windows)
Photographer	Brooktree Film Lab
Image-Specific Properties:
Horizontal Resolution	240 dpi
Vertical Resolution	240 dpi
Image Created	2024:11:20 14:06:28
Color Space Information	sRGB
Image Width	2416
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Unique Image ID	10102769159

File: 6693 11202024 5-011.jpg (1.63 MB, 2416x2380)

1.63 MB JPG

>>4386876
>XX

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Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment Make	NORITSU KOKI
Camera Model	EZ Controller
Camera Software	Adobe Photoshop Lightroom Classic 14.0.1 (Windows)
Photographer	Brooktree Film Lab
Image-Specific Properties:
Horizontal Resolution	240 dpi
Vertical Resolution	240 dpi
Image Created	2024:11:20 14:07:39
Color Space Information	sRGB
Unique Image ID	10102769807

File: IMG_6361.jpg (1.77 MB, 2416x2380)

1.77 MB JPG

>>4386877
>tri X

It was a fun trip, I wish I had had more opportunity to go out alone and take some pics. But that’s one of those things when you have kids I guess.

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Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment Make	NORITSU KOKI
Camera Model	EZ Controller
Camera Software	Adobe Photoshop Lightroom Classic 14.0.1 (Windows)
Photographer	Brooktree Film Lab
Image-Specific Properties:
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Image Created	2024:11:20 14:05:15
Color Space Information	sRGB
Image Width	2416
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Unique Image ID	10102768875

File: IMG_6362.jpg (1.16 MB, 2416x2380)

1.16 MB JPG

>>4386880
>>4386877
>>4386876
This was my first time using “f8 and be there” mindset. Since I was carrying my youngest I couldn’t really do much fine adjusting to shoot on a smaller aperture. Surprisingly it was a pretty solid system with me never missing focus. However I can’t help but feel it’d have been almost impossible to use in doors unless I was pushing to an insane iso.

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Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment Make	NORITSU KOKI
Camera Model	EZ Controller
Camera Software	Adobe Photoshop Lightroom Classic 14.0.1 (Windows)
Photographer	Brooktree Film Lab
Image-Specific Properties:
Horizontal Resolution	240 dpi
Vertical Resolution	240 dpi
Image Created	2024:11:20 14:06:29
Color Space Information	sRGB
Image Width	2416
Image Height	2380
Scene Capture Type	Standard
Unique Image ID	10102769167

>>4385152
I hate foma so much. Thin negatives, have to shoot half stated iso, curly negs. Not that much cheaper than tri x

File: R35KNT4SG17.jpg (1.54 MB, 1309x2000)

1.54 MB JPG

>>4386852
As far as I know Banglas have accommodation in some container shacks at the edge of town which take a long time to reach and then they have to leave to make it for their next work shift. So they prefer to just plop down and sleep wherever it's legal to do so.

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Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment Make	Plustek
Camera Model	OpticFilm 8200i
Camera Software	GIMP 2.10.6
Image-Specific Properties:
Image Orientation	Top, Left-Hand
Horizontal Resolution	44 dpi
Vertical Resolution	44 dpi
Image Created	2024:11:20 20:46:45
Image Width	6695
Image Height	10175