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File: unforeseeable_diptych.jpg (4.86 MB, 2850x2106)
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photo projects edition

Previous thread
>>4389099

/fgt/ daily reminder (courtesy by anon): one stop per decade is (generally) bullshit
>negative film ages better than positive
>black and white better than color
>slow films better than fast
>storage conditions (dry/cool) matter more than years
>Negative film is shot 1 or 2 stops overexposed and then PULLED in development so that you build more density in the exposure and develop less such that the fog is limited
>slide/positive film is shot at box speed or overexposed and pulled.
>if you home develop you can also use benzotriazole as a restrainer for the the first developer in E6 process


Useful links
>[massive dev chart] gives times for home film development
https://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php
>[film dev] shows results of development regimes
https://filmdev.org/
>[news & community links]
35mmc.com
casualphotophile.com
kosmofoto.com
emulsive.org
japancamerahunter.com

>thread question
what changed in how you approach photography over this year?
>>
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>>4392082
I'll use the massive dev chart app as well
and probably a bluetooth earbud in one ear to listen to music and get the sound notifications from the app
first one sheet to see if everything works fine
then I'll try doing the other 5 sheets divided in 2 sessions: one with 2 sheets and the next one with 3 sheets if the previous 2 come out fine

btw question for LF fags
>focus on near, swing/tilt on far
or
>focus on far, swing/tilt on near
?
because I've heard both and don't know which it is
tried focusing on near and swinging to get the farthest point as well, doing this back and forth some 3 or 4
after trying and giving up and getting everything back to zero some 3 times, of course
it's my first time doing this, but I think it worked out
could be better, I believe, because I tried swinging while also having the monorail sloped down

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>>
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>>4392096
anyway, any tips for how to combine movements? e.g. swing and tilt

will post some photos from a recent trip
anyone feel free to offer criticism

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>>
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>>4392097
>dyptich in OP is also mine

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>>
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>>4392098

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>>
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>>4392099

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>>
>>4392096
>>4392097
It all essentially comes down to visualizing/understanding the schiempflug principle. I think starting at nearest object in focus works a little better, but either way probably works. Also one thing to keep in mind is that you should open your aperture all the way while finding your focal plane and then stopping down once you get your movements all set.

If you aren't obsessed with maximum sharpness and don't mind losing a stop or two to smaller apertures it is worth checking a calculator to see if your hyperfocal distance gets everything you want in focus without movements.

One thing I have noticed using my clear glass back standard is that you still need to focus on distant subject at higher apertures carefully if you want them very sharp. I have also noticed that heat/atmospheric effects will often destroy all fine sharpness.

Another interesting observation I've noticed is that DoF is actually more of a gradient that trails into unsharpness rather than a hard stop. Maybe obvious, but the calculators give you specific distances and it only sorta works like that...

Nice pics btw. I like >>4392096 best.
>>
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Judge me /fgt/

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>>
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dev'd my first roll of IR film bros. IR gets some cool results for how easy the photo process is (attach filter and adjust exposure accordingly)

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>>
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>>4392106
same composition for comparison
>>
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>>4392105

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>>
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>>4392108

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>>
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>>4392109

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>>
>>4392110
>>4392109
>>4392108
I think these may have been better if you got closer to the people.
>>
>thread question

getting deep into 4x5 with filters and such.
>>
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>>4392094
>what changed in how you approach photography over this year?
Realizing stuff I shot in 2022 looks way better than anything I've shot this year and large format has had a detrimental effect on me. Time to get back into the medium format game.

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>>
>>4392131
>large format has had a detrimental effect on me
t. dog hair anon
>>
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>>4392133
I'm extremely obsessed over meticulously cleaning my scans so I don't think you got the right guy.

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>>
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>>4392101
I was doing macro, is it easier or harder to align those planes of focus on macro than it is in the open?
thanks for the compliment, btw
will post a couple more

>>4392105
only if you judge mine, desu
>all the photos in the thread before yours

>>4392105
good light, sharp subject, it's "a cliché" shooting corner buildings but most photos like those are shit. You managed to have a nicely done one, I like it
great colours too
>>4392108
I think this would benefit from being a little higher, covering less of the ground on the front, cutting off the first 4 lines of tiles and getting a little bit more space on top
good lighting as well, and nice contrast between inside and out (brute/delicate, grays and hi-vis orange/colourful, industrial/organic)
>>4392109
I like the place but for me it doesn't work out as a photo
>>4392110
this concrete slab on the front contributes nothing to the photo
should have gone closer to cut it out of frame
good light and very comfy place, well executed shot but the subject is uninteresting to me personally

>>4392131
>large format has had a detrimental effect on me
would you mind sharing how?

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>>
>>4392108
>>4392113
first one works well as-is imo
>>
>>4392194
It gets a lot harder for macro once you start pushing higher magnifications. 1:1 is about the same once you've gotten a hang of it. There's some weird stuff that happens when you start tilting and swinging but recomposing is usually all you need to do.

There will be a point if you keep increasing magnification where large swings of the focus dial won't look like they're doing anything. That is when you need to use clear glass + loupe.
>>
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>>4392194
>would you mind sharing how?
It made me become increasingly neurotic and hesitant, and I'd shoot less and less without getting anything in return. I love shooting color and large format color photography is world of hurt, taking a bad photo on an expensive sheet would scare me stiff and in the end I'd forgo a promising scene and shoot something bland as fuck instead. And it made me want to head out less because it was always such a pain in the ass hauling all that junk along, which is why I feel I haven't gotten anything done in the last few years. 90% of the shots I like taken with the view camera were shot with the 6x9 roll film back and not on sheet, so I might as well head back to doing picrel where I clearly belong. What do I even need all that resolution for, I don't even print shit.

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>>
>>4392229
Large format can absolutely play mind games on you.
>>
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Kentmere 400 120
I pushed that bitch to 3200 in XTOL because weather was trash
very grainy but kinda cool since it's 6x6
this one shot f3.5 1/50s

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>>
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You can use a fresnel lens in front of your clear glass plate for framing and the image is super bright. Cool.

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>>
>>4392258
don't tell me you're gonna waste a shot on a window....
>>
>>4392213
hmm got it
doing macro and applying tilts and swings for the first time all at once was hard but I learned a lot
was using a good loupe but still with ground glass
>>4392229
got it, thanks for the honest response
the "expensive" aspect of it makes me cautious not to make any mistakes, and I like doing everything carefully regardless if it's 35mm, medium format or now with large format
but being cautious is not the same as being paranoid
in the end it's just film, man
sometimes you'll end up wasting it
I made a mistake shooting slide in this last trip
>see picrel

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>>
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>>4392229
I went almos 2 months without shooting with my RB67
that >>4392264 was my first shot with it in the trip, and immediately after I shot it I saw I metered the light and everything but I didn't set the camera accordingly, so it was wildly underexposed
it's 120 Ektachrome
in a 6x7, so 10 shots per roll
shit's expensive
I just went "fuck, gotta be careful" and took another shot of the same scene now with the right settings
>>4392100 this one
that's it
don't overthink it

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>>
>>4392262
No. I was setting up the camera and testing right there. Sheeps, water and trees today.

I'm using my sharp 300mm lens to demonstrate the difference. Kind of a pain to use an 85mm equivalent for what I'm shooting, but that's part of the fun.
>>
>>4392194
Cheers anon, thanks for the feedback. Of yours I like >>4392100 the most, colours are great and the mountain range in the background gives it a nice feel.
>>
>>4392281
thanks, man
I just remembered these two shots were a panorama that came out surprisingly well
>>4392096
>>4392097
>>
>>4392302
wtf came out yellow as fuck
redid it properly
>>
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Another six from today. I feel like something went wrong with these because they aren't as sharp as I expected. Gotta do some testing. I'm still pretty happy with some them regardless.

Using a fresnel without a ground glass is a little too imprecise and annoying. I will stick with the binocular reflex viewer and ground glass back for framing.

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>>
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Least favorite from today. I like the idea, but it's a bit of a mess.

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Might be cool rotated 90 degrees.

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This one might be my favorite.

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Last one. Hope I didn't damage your corneas too badly.

I think that the sharpness issue is from either the old film holders I'm using or the ground glass back may have poor tolerances compared to the more modern sinar I'm used to using. I've gotten significantly sharper images at similar apertures with this lens and film combo. New camera, new problems, fun.

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>>
>>4392258
put some gridlines on that shit holy fuck
>>
>>4392389
I have them on the ground glass that I normally use for framing, but you can only view the image with a loupe through clear glass for critical focus. The grid lines just get in the way at that point.
>>
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>first time shooting large format
>first time trying out D-76
>first time tray developing
>decided to go all in and do all the 6 sheets I've shot
miraculously everything came out perfectly fine
even after forgetting the stop bath because my water tray was in the wrong position
shuffling was surprisingly easy
I'm excited to get it digitized, and will make contact sheets if everything is good (focus etc.)

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>>
>>4392420
do all the 6 sheets *at once
>>
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>>4392420
heck yeah

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>>4392306
nice
>>
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>>4392444
Why would you ever waste film by taking pictures of niggers?
>>
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>shoot digital
>long for the character of film
>shoot film
>carry a compact digital with similar focal length too, for contingency
>shoot the same scenes with both cameras
>decide to carry a larger digital to improve the contingency images
>ditch film because the load becomes troublesome
>shoot digital
>long for the character of film
>>
>>4392456
be careful not to cut yourself on those edges
>>4392443
>>4392444
beautiful, man
i just feel like the black man is a bit washed out
feels like it could be in an ad campaign on Vogue
>>
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>>4392467
Thanks! I did notice it looking a bit washed when I saw it in big on the computer.
I prefer the outcome of the film roll rather than the digital ones.
>>4392456
Thanks that made me laugh

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>>4392473
>I prefer the outcome of the film roll rather than the digital ones
are those slides or are you wetprinting them?
>>
>>4392493
just slides
>>
anyone tried meme films? heading back home for christmas and going to see some old friends, thought maybe some psychedelic blues or revolog with the interesting effects might make for nice prints but I guess i'd like to know that the box speed is semireliable or if the effects look as decent as they seem to on the promos
>>
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>>4392511
I had fun with some expired fuji or photolabo ones
>>
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>>4392467
Tried to play with the blacks

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>>4392530
woah they're people too, man
jeez
>>
>>4392533
kek
>>
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>>4392465
>shoot medium format
>carry a m43 as a light meter and for worthless snapshits
works for me
>>
>>4392456
Kodak literally invented ektar specifically for taking photos of niggers you jive ass cracka mofuckin FOO. Mo like you wasting perfectly good nigga film takin pictures of flowers.
>>
>>4392546
this but unironically depending of the skin tones you are trying to photograph:


Crackas = Portra
Spics/Chinks = Gold, Pro Image
NIGGERS = Ektar
>>
>>4392548
Ektar and slide film
pretty much all slide films get along absurdly well with darker skin tones
>>
what would lads suggest for shooting the Xmas season: Tri-X pushed to 800 or 5222 pushed to 400, both can be deved with Rodinal or Tmax Developer
>>
>>4392570
I prefer Double-x over Tri-x, and you can comfortably push it to 800
so i'd go with 5222 @800, since you'll probably mostly shoot indoors
>>
>>4392581
alright, I'll try 5222 @800 in my Olympus 35RC
>>
Bros I splurged 2k on a home scanning setup, am I cooked?
>>
>>4392593
Yes. You could have gotten an awesome darkroom setup and lots of paper for that price.
>>
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Do you have a p&s? I got this one for free and have enjoyed using it

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and a few sample images

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>>4392605

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>>4392607
some of these got camera scanned and some just the cheap lab job
>>
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>>4392608
>>
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>>4392609
>>
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>>4392610

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hi anons so I bought a minolta xg1 at the thrift store recently. it was shooting fine until I got about halfway through my roll. I'll take a pic and the shutter will open right away but take like 2 seconds to close.

i'm sure it's a relatively simple fix but i'm a noob and don't know if i should just rewind my roll and try to clean it or if it's another reason.

here's a pic from my shitty vivitar ic 101
>>
>>4392605
what film? It's got phoenix vibes but sharper. Love me some phoenix
>>4392613
>i'm sure it's a relatively simple fix
lol why? Put a fresh battery in that's the only "simple fix." If that don't do it it's probably fucked
>>
>>4392614
i had new batteries in it at the start of the roll and it was fine do they go that fast?
>>
>>4392614
>>
>>4392615
no it's probably fucked
>>4392617
ah nice I got some of that in the fridge, I should shoot it
>>
>>4392094
I'm not sure how bad of an idea it is to get into film photography and flash photography at the same time (coming from digital)
But I've got a Minolta SRT101 from eBay that came with a Brilliant 505 flash.
I wanted to take some pics at our New Years celebration, but that's going to be indoors and my 200 film would need stupid long exposure times according the the camera's light meter, so I figured I might aswell bring the flash.

My question is, how do I meter correctly for the flash? It has a little wheel on the back (see this random video, I can't upload a pic of it right now) but I'm not sure if that's for metering or how it works
https://youtu.be/SSBbn0pwCk8?t=21
I don't mind if my pictures are a bit overexposed, it'll be my first roll of film after all, but I'd still like to try my best to get it right.
>>
>>4392420
Nice. How was it?
>>
>>4392619
Can't see the sensor on the flash but seems to be a thyristor one, meaning that the little dial will be everything that you need to adjust. Look for the DIN equivalent (I can't see on the video if it has ASA/ISO) of your film speed, set the aperture for the distance you want to cover with the flash based on the dial and remember to set your camera to the flash sync speed.

That is.
>>
>>4392619
push the fuck out of your film if its black and white. idk how color works.
>>
>>4392623
pretty easy, actually
I tought i was gonna get scratches everywhere and fucked up emulsions from touching it when developing but it's nice turning on the lights and finding out everything worked out just fine
I'll take more care with lightsources next time
The bathroom LED bulb keeps a barely perceptible light on even when off, probably a fucking capacitor in it
I'll change the lightbulb and if it continues I'll just remove it whenever I develop film
I went to the shop today to get it all scanned
>>
>>4392619
>read both your camera's and your flash's manual
>make sure the camera works
>shoot a roll with it before new year celebration to see if it works, check for lightleaks and get used to it
>shoot said roll using flash under light conditions similar to those you'll have in NYE
fiddling with a camera you've never used before in a medium you're not familiar with while also using a flash you don't even know how it works in fucking new year's eve is pretty much asking for a shitty day with shitty results
>>
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>>4392604
My Olympus XA2 is my baby

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>>
Im gonna fking do it brehs!
I found this Mamiya RB67 with a 90mm and a 180mm lense plus another sd pro back for like 1000$. Can’t wait to buy this brick and slam it in a tripod
>>
>>4392671
That's not it, it's becase there's a live wire running alongside a disconnected wire, which is inducting small amount of current in the disconnected one. A capacitor wouldn't last more than a few seconds at most.
>>
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>>4392570
XX @ 800 in Tmax dev is fantastic. Pic related

>>4392689
Love the xa2

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Trying Negative Lab Pro. It fucks up normal Lightroom sliders after conversion. Does it really limit you to only using the adjustment sliders in the plugin window?
>>
>>4392788
got it
I'll either remove the lamp or cover it, then
didn't have any fogging or anything but I won't risk it
>>
>>4392806
after conversion, export to TIFF. Then you can edit it normally in lightroom
>>
>>4392099
I was looking directly at the slide with a good quality loupe and was genuinely impressed by the image quality
not to be a pixelpeeping faggot (or grainpeeping faggot in this case), but look at the scan >>4392099, which is already great, and look at picrel
the image is shit because my phone's camera is shit, but you can clearly see what time is it in the tower clock when looking at the positive with a loupe
my scans are all high quality, and I knew it still couldn't reach the level of detail we see on film, but I thought the difference was minimal
I've recently bought a good loupe for LF focusing, and just got my 6x7 positives back and holy fucking shit
Been shooting film for almost 10 years and never seen positives under magnification, it's absurd
>>
>>4392800
what time do you use for Tmax dev? MDC doesn't have an 800 iso listed :/
>>
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Not really a series,

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but I've done this with quite a few scenes.

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>>4392861
slides are something, sucks they are bitch to develop at home and it takes 6 fucking weeks to develop them where I live
>>
>>4392888
>they are bitch to develop at home
It's not that hard. The only thing that sucks is the poor shelf life of the chemistry
>>
>>4392888
same, where I live there are only 2 labs that do E6
one of them is run by a guy who keeps making excuses for constant delays, and the other one is run by a guy who does a great job but it takes like 2 weeks to get them developed and uses a Noritsu to scan them
so i take my slides for the last guy to develop and then take it to another lab to get them scanned
which means 3 weeks to get it
and this >>4392909
not only it's a pain in the ass but I also don't shoot enough slides for home developing to be worth it
>>
>>4392869
MDC has this recommendations page that covers T-Max push processing
https://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?doc=pushproc
TMax Films
> 1 stop push = no change
> 2 stop push = (x1.33)
> 3 stop push = (x1.66)
>>
>>4392671
That's good to hear your film came out without scratches! I had a couple issues with 8x10 tray dev thst I solved by putting a small piece of printing paper underneath the film. Total chance discovery, but it works!

I was talking more about shooting large format for the first time!
>>
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dark and cold and sad

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>>
>>4392925
>> 1 stop push = no change
1 stop push = no push?
must be written by javashit devs
>>
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Did some testing with my new brass lens. Dallmeyer rapid rectilinear, roughly 1860-1910 was when it was made.

No aperture or focal length info on it. Determined it is around 750mm focal length, wide open it is f11, and with the one aperture slide it reduces down to around f32-f40ish.

Four shots, two scenes with and without aperture slide in place.

Delta 100 @ 50, rodinal 1:50 rotary developer for 10 mins.

First one is wide open.

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>>4392938
even with rodinal its low contrast and the chickens are literally glowing

you mistakenly bought a portrait lens but like for women not dogs send it back
>>
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>>4392938
With aperture slide in place. The lens was fogging up like crazy, which is why this one has that haze on it. Older lenses are quite soft wide open, but sharpen up very nicely when you stop them down. The difference is quite dramatic as you can see.

Really really good quality all things considered. This lens will easily cover 8x10 as well.

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Second shot wide open. Kinda cool.

>>4392940
The lens was fogging in like 2 seconds after I put it back on camera there isn't actually any glow or only very minimal, and rodinal at 1+50 is naturally low contrast, yah goober.

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Last one. I forgot to close my shutter before pulling the film slide out, so this is MASSIVELY over exposed. Probably about 10 seconds when it should have been 1/4 of a second. The scanner was unhappy, but I kinda really like the shot for what it is.

I really like this lens a lot. Gotta try some macro with it. :D

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>>4392931
>dark and cold and sad
wow that's exactly how my life feels
>>
>>4392947
What's getting you down?
>>
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Hey fgts, any tips for developing 30+ year old E-4 slides? Had some success with room temp C-41 and ~4 stops of overexposure but it's obviously still pretty fucked. Should I try getting C-22 chems for my last roll or is this as usable as it gets? (pretty sure E-4 will just not turn out at all, so I'm doing negs) Film is the early IE ektachrome 2443

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>>4392306
you color corrected the south american-ness of the image :D beautiful btw
>>
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>finally give in and stop autistically obsessing over making negative scans free of every little micron of dust
>suddenly free to enjoy film photography again
dog hair anon... my sensei... arigatou.

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>>4392989
>dog hair anon... my sensei... arigatou.
nice try dog hair anon we know it's you
>>
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>>4392929
I got 5 trays and only after buying them I saw there were barbs in the bottom that would certainly scratch the sheets, so I got 5 other trays and will use the first ones for gardening
the new ones are pretty smooth, everything worked out fine (:

about the photos, the first one was pretty hard because I was shooting a lit up building at night, so the light was really dim and it was hard to focus (I didn't have a loupe yet)
the day after that I shot 3 sheets of my friends hanging out together
some 5 days later I shot another 2 sheets of a chocolate that has a really nice texture to test how movements work while also doing macro for the first time
I mean, I've shot macro on 35mm with a proper macro lens and shit but shooting LF macro is WAY different
took one photo at f8 and the other at f64 to check both the ultrathin DoF and extra thicc DoF of glorious f64
and then a couple days later I developed them all at once in the tray
>D76 1+2 at 20ºC for 15'15"
did this at like 3am, so after hanging the sheets I went to sleep and left them to dry
the morning after I woke up, put the sheets in a printfile and went straight to the lab to get it scanned
I'll post everything as soon as I get them back!

>>4392977
kek
ok I'm bringing the south american-ness back with this beautiful golden hour shot
the partially built (and half-lit) stadium at the bottom reminded me of Akira

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>>
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>>4392996
correction: I just checked it on google maps and that's actually a TV broadcast
it looks a lot like half a stadium though

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>>4392996
Awesome! You've ran into many of the struggles with view cameras so far, more to come. :D If you think you'll be doing a lot of low light stuff get a fresnel if you don't have one, and possibly a better GG if it seems dim. Fresnel makes it much brighter, but can get in the way of focusing a bit. I don't like them, but ymmv.

Macro LF is very different from all other shooting, but also kinda the same as smaller format macro. The way I like to think of it is the bellows extension you set is your magnification. After you have your desired magnification you move either subject or camera to get into rough focus. After that you use the rear standard for fine focus and the front standard for coarse focus. You can use the rear standard just as well as the front for focal plane manipulation and it can be very convenient if your bellows extension make the front standard too far to reach. Also get that clear glass back standard!!!!

>>4392989
Absolutely based. Now you can focus that autism on something cool like super high magnification LF macro.
Believe it or not this little 25mm lens has enough coverage to shoot 8x10 at about 15x-20x magnification. Pic is around 10x on 4x5.
On an 8x10 the 35mm equivalent is 3mm focal length lol.

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>>
>>4392989
>the scanner noise
>6 stops dynamic range
why even spend money on film if its going to look like a nikon coolpix
>>
>>4393004
It does not matter because his scans are merely a more convenient contact sheet/organizational method for when he makes his prints! Duh!
>>
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35mm...home

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>>
>>4392999
>You've ran into many of the struggles with view cameras so far, more to come. :D
kek yeah I feel like this is only the beginning, but I'm loving all of it thus far
adds a sense of novelty to the very act of shooting, which is something I haven't had for some time
I mean, it's been almost exactly a year since I got my Mamiya RB67, which is also a beast of its own
it has a very particular way of shooting, even though I was already very familiar with medium format since my first ever camera was a TLR
but LF is like they released photography 2
I'm excited to go out and shoot a beautiful tree from a park nearby tomorrow morning if I can get up on time
>>
>>4393006
>for when he makes the prints
>color film
No one on /p/ has done this
>>
>>4393009
Yeah! I like how view cameras simplify everything down so much, but with the simplicity is a world of autism and added complexity to taking snapshits. Worth it for the prints, and it's fun. I love taking 6 sheets out and just spending a couple hours shooting them, developing them all in a tank and scanning. It's relaxing, but also a lot more engaging for me than handheld cameras.

>>4393010
There's that one guy who printed those pics of the black girl. Sometime next year I'll be doing color prints, hopefully. I've been waiting on my contractor guy to have free time to build the room that will be my darkroom. Going to have over 10x the space of my current 16 sq.ft darkroom tent.
>>
Gonna send my first roll off to development soon. I heard people saying that you should send it to a professional studio instead of your local drug store and I understand the reasons for that (even though I'm gonna assume it's not worth the money on my first few rolls)
What I'm curious about is if a professional studio will just do better scans or if the development itself is also different? If I get my negatives back from the drug store and there is one photo I really like can't I just make a better scan of that myself in the future or something?
>>
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>fuck up and take half-frame shot in portrait when i should have went with landscape
>attempt to salvage framing by cropping in to landscape, demolishing visual resolution in the process
i am a visionary pioneering the 35mm equivalent of micro four thirds

>>4393014
>If I get my negatives back from the drug store
read these words in isolation then do your homework to make damn sure that "if" is for sure a "when" before your hand over your film. CVS (and probably every other major chain) will mail your film off to a central processing center to be developed, scanned, and then disposed of all in one go.

>>4393004
>why even spend money on film if its going to look like a nikon coolpix
so i'm free to take photos without a screen beckoning me to immediately review what i've just shot in case something spoiled it and i need to reshoot. there's also the added bonus of using a purely mechanical camera which doesn't rely on batteries that need charging or tons of esoteric electronic components that are impossible to service.
for what it's worth though i do find charm in early digishit photos, i like being able to see the world through the eyes of different technologies. i have no interest in capturing the world as my own eyes see it.

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>>4393012
yes, everything is taken to its absolute basic, but then you have control over every single thing
so yes, it's possible to take a very conventional photo with a large format camera, but if you wanna experiment with any aspect of it you'll also be able to do so
I'll have like 3 hours of sleep because I was cutting up the 35mm positives to put them in the slide holders and then kinda cataloguing them
and now I already wanna shoot 4x5 slides

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>>4393009
I just bought a RB67 yesterday, any tips? Mainly for portraits and to be set on a tripod.
>>
>>4393024
read the entire manual thoroughly at least once
learn all the steps and repeat it until you do it automatically
>cock the shutter
>compose the shot focus
>read the metering
>set the time and aperture
>remove the dark slide
>shoot
>insert the dark slide
additionally
>remove and replace the backs every shot
>learn to check if properly attached
>learn how to shoot with cable release
>ALWAYS keep your mirror lock-up dial set "off". Only ever set it to mirror lock-up when you're actually using it and with the cable release attached
that's it, you gotta have your personal routine with it
it's a complex camera and you gotta use it and see how it works for you
everyone has their own way of having a consisent procedure with it
in the end it all comes down to having a specific workflow that you feel comfortable with
>>
>>4393024
Throw the manual out and start fucking with it. What the hell are words ever gonna teach you? Reading, thats all, so start using it right away you'll get the hang of it faster than any manual will.
Why do they even call it a manual? If I wanted to get started easy I'd get an AUTOMATIC!
>>
>>4393045
Still drunk from your Tuesday bender?
>>
>>4393017
>make damn sure that "if" is for sure a "when" before your hand over your film
I'll double check when it's time, but I'm fairly certain. A friend of mine said it's one of the option you get to tick when sending them your film
>>
>>4393046
Just as drunk as ur mom got after she saw u plop out of her womb
>>
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>get first b&w roll deved and scanned
I get it now

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>>4393057

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Man, work's been so rough I don't even enjoy my down time. I don't even want to take photos or paint or anything.

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>>4393058

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>>4393061

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>>4393062

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>>4393063

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>>4393064

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>>4393045
True but asking could also avoid some me some stupid mistake that I would have to learn the hard way. I’m just really excited to use that camera!
>>
>>4393077
You are smarter and less of an alcoholic than Mr.Fucker. Fact.
>>
>>4393077
im just being a shithead dw, hope u have fun with your new cam
>>
>>4393022
feeling like an addict
went out to shoot this morning, then headed to work and now I can't wait to get home and develop my stuff
took 4 more sheets today, and I believe they'll come out really good
I was planning on shooting this tree in large format for a month before I even got the camera
will develop it all in Rodinal
>>
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>>4393059
understandable
painting is for women and photography is a feminine hobby
nonetheless, whats up at work anon?
>>
>>4393059
Sucks to hear anon. Hope work improves or you can at least find joy in the hobbies again.
>>
>>4393085
No worries, I get that you’re still on edge from the shit flinging session in sugars nikkon thread.
>>
>>4392948
life
>>
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first photo on my olympus xa with a broken shutter needle and dead rangefinder patch. I'm really digging this film vibe...

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I wanna make some contact prints but only have Rodinal and D76 for developing
would it be possible to use them as paper developer?
I haven't found any info online ):
may buy dektol tomorrow, I just wanna scratch that itch for now

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>>4393144
you CAN use rodinal but at that point youre wasting rodinal.
i've seen 1+10 or 1+25 used.

why not just get ilford multigrade? best paper developer currently especially since you can use it 1+14.

try d76. someone said it takes longer than normal but it works.
>>
>>4393144
I had the same temptation. Just buy the dektol. It is incredibly cheap. I kept it in 4 or 5 1L bottles so I could mix a full packet of the powder.
Remember that it only lasts for like a day. I would use like 400ml in an 8x10 tray lol. Just swish it up well enough and it eventually covers your paper.

Sadly contact sheets are quite inconvenient these days because the 6 shot archival sheets don't fit the paper well. You want the taller and skinnier. Same deal with 120 rolls. 4x5 sheets that fit 4 work well at least.
>>
>>4393147
at what dilution? 1+1?
probably just 150ml will be enough
>why not just get ilford multigrade? best paper developer currently especially since you can use it 1+14
I just wanna mess with contact printing in my bathroom tonight for fun
right after I posted I bought D72 (Dektol) and F24 fixer online from a local lab, but it'll only arrive between january 3rd and 8th
which is not a problem either, since I'll only have access to a proper lab after january 6th
>>
>>4393153
im not entirely sure. you should try it out.

>dektol and F24
youre really stuck on kodak chems lmao

i really like tf-5 for my fixer both prints and films. low wash times and not smelly.
>>
>>4393149
>Just buy the dektol. It is incredibly cheap.
I just bought it, it's not about the price, it's about wanting to make contact prints immediately from the photos I took earlier today (:
unfortunately the paper I have is 5x7 and I'll make 4x5 prints
so I'll cut off those edges and use them as test strips
>>4393158
>youre really stuck on kodak chems lmao
is there a problem?
>genuine question
it's actually a local lab that sells all the compounds of the original Kodak formulas and you mix them together, it's fun
anyway, Ilford chemicals are not very readily available where I live
at least not for cheap, but I'll look into this Ilford multigrade
>>
>>4393160
>is there a problem?
no not at all.

>it's actually a local lab that sells all the compounds of the original Kodak formulas and you mix them together
if you can get sodium sulfite and metol you can make d23.

100g sodium sulfite
7.5g metol
1 liter

same times and speed/graininess as d76, but without d76's tendency to block highlights.

i prefer a two bath solution
bath a:
80g sodium sulfite
6.5g metol
bath b:
12g sodium metaborate


no prewetting, 4.5 minutes in each bath @ 20C. no rinse between solutions, immateutly into fixer after bath b.
can reuse both solutions up to 10 rolls of films (10 rolls of 120/13 film, 40 sheets of 4x5).

i like it, better than d23 i would think. cant scan currently since i dont have a scanner but i will soon enough so look out on this board lmao
>>
>>4393160
Well you can use rodinal, but it depletes very quickly. Idk the dilution or anything about it. If you just let it rip you can probably tell because your paper should take about 1 or 2 min to develop fully. Just dump more rodinal in your tray if it's too slow lol.
>>
>>4393160
if ilford stuff isnt cheap then i would skip on it. i thought you were in an area that it was okay to get easily.

adding on to my last post, if you can get raw chemicals i'd highly recommend getting books such as "the darkroom cookbook" and "photo lab index". the cookbook has formulas and how to manipulate them, while the index just has formulas from ilford, kodak, afga, etc. both can be found as pdfs online but i'd prefer to get it physically as i like to write in mine. i have a bunch of solutions in the margins of my cookbook.

attached is my copy of the cookbook on the d23 page lol
>>
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on an intrepid 4x5

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>>4393088
4x5 is addictive, this was fuji160ns

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made some contact prints this night and they suck lol
the orange/red light from the mini led panel is okayish for safelight but it does fog the paper a bit, I believe
having multiple light sources instead of a single point also seems to make the image dull
test strips didn't help in the slightest
D76 1+1 was maybe actually too quick, the images were either this dull looking gray or went straight to shadowtown
It was a fun experiment, but next year I'll do it all properly in a lab with Dektol etc.
I used Fomaspeed Variant 312, but might as well buy some Ilford paper or something
anyway, tips for someone who hasn't wetprinted in about 9 years?

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>>4393163
what are the advantages of using D23 over D72?
for now I'll use the Dektol formula as is just so I don't have random amounts of metol and sodium sulfite lying around for no reason, but later I can either just buy D23 or buy this D72 compounds kit and mix it as D23
>same times and speed/graininess as d76, but without d76's tendency to block highlights
>D76
is D23 a paper developer or a film developer?
>>
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>>4392971
It's surprising that you even have images, E-4 and C-22 are long dead and forgotten. Also, IR sensitive films, and especially slide film does not age well. Maybe give it even more light and process it the same way you did previously? I doubt anyone here has useful tips for something so niche. Have you asked your local lab for advice?

Picrel is 20 year expired fuji sensia 400, i wonder if the red spots here and the blue spotting on your image are caused by the same thing (background radiation and age?)

>>4393017
this is just 110 film with extra steps lmao

>>4393057
B+W feels like cheating sometimes. Especially considering how much simpler it is to edit afterwards

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>>4393256
>D76 1+1 was maybe actually too quick, the images were either this dull looking gray or went straight to shadowtown
IMO if you are relying on pulling the paper out early you have already lost. To get good contrast you need to develop it fully, so you want to expose it so the highlights stay white even if you leave it in the dev way too long. If your safelight is not safe that will be a problem.

Buy a real safelight. It should be dim not just red. You're relying on reciprocity failure to some degree.
>>
>>4393355
Catlabs sells a really great LED safelight that is super duper bright and the very narrow wavelength of the lights doesn't really touch the paper. Pricey, but really excellent.
>>
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This say a lot about society
>>
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>>4393383
The corner of a building? never seen before
>>
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>>4393385
look ma, I am Vivian Maier!
>>
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>>4393242
Hellya dope shot

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>>4393281
d23 and d76 are film developers.
you cannot buy d23 anymore, only mix them yourself.

d23 only has two ingredients vs d76 has i think 7? better for mixing yourself. cheaper to mix both formulas rather than keep on getting d76 in packs.
>>
why are m39 mount lenses so expensive?
>>
>>4393434
Leica dads
>>
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>>4393361
tempting
However,

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>>4393456
Just email them and say you're trans, no biggie. Shitty systems deserve to be abused.
>>
>>4393355
>IMO if you are relying on pulling the paper out early you have already lost
true lol
>To get good contrast you need to develop it fully, so you want to expose it so the highlights stay white even if you leave it in the dev way too long
yes, it was actually acting way too quickly and not properly
>Buy a real safelight. It should be dim not just red
calm down, I'm not that stupid
I was using it at its capacity 1% capacity and pointed towards the ceiling
but then again, the whole thing was just for fun

>>4393419
ah got it
but why is it your preferred developer?
just the highlights thing?
>you cannot buy d23 anymore, only mix them yourself.
>d23 only has two ingredients vs d76 has i think 7?
D72 is 'elon-hydroquinone developer', a mix of elon (3,1g), sodium sulphite (90g), Hydroquinone (12g), sodium carbonate (180g), potassium bromide (1,9g) and water (completing 1L)
D76 is 'elon-hydoquinone-borax tank developer', consisting of elon (2g), sodium sulphite (200g in crystals, or anhydrous 100g), hydroquinone (5g), borax (2g) and water (completing 1L)
so D23 apparently has 5 ingredients (plus water), whereas D76 has 4 ingredients (plus water)
would D23 work fine with just metol (elon) and sodium sulphite?
also the quantities I found in Kodak Chemicals and Formulae differ from those you posted >>4393163
I'm not doubting you, I just want to better understand this whole thing
>>
>>4393507
>>4393419
ah sorry, I'm a dumb fuck and checked the formulas for D72 and D76 instead of D23 which is what you mentioned
in the same book there's a formula for D-23 which is 7.5g of elon, 200g of sodium sulphite and 1L of water
>>
>visiting family for christmas
>camera shop local to them has its annual sale while i'm there
must...resist...urge...to fill my carryon with cheap glass
>>
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Shot black and white for the first time with Ilford Delta 3200. Definitely an interesting experience.

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>>4393545
Can't decide whether I like this version of the shot better.

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>>4393546

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>>4393549

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>>4393545
we're living parallel lives brother, I shot my first b&w roll of 3200 tmax in hollywood at night, you're shooting your first b&w roll of 3200 delta in rialto at night. I know there's some other socal /p/hotogaphers, we should do some kind of photowalk or meetup or something
>>
How much do you boost your flash when shooting slide film?
>>
>>4393549
Kewl
>>
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i feel like i get worse as a photographer by the week. i get a roll back from the shop and think 'wow these are all bad. how did i fail on so many shots that felt like they would land in the moment?'

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>>4393555
nta but beers & cameras LA and East LA Film Shop have pretty frequent photo walks
>>
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excuse the shitty scan with newton rings
but Kodak Gold in medium format is jsut amazing

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>>4393603
This one looks cool, anon
>>
>>4393618
haha beaver go chomp chomp
>>
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also shot some trains passing through a station while I was waiting for one
came out pretty cool
>>4393622
yes beavers are pretty cool man
I've seen a lot of trees chewed by them, got a shot of one, will scan it tomorrow

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>>
>>4393618
honestly my favorite color 120, which is great 'cause it's also cheap
excited to try phoenix in 120 because, like gold, it's kinda grainy and jenk in 35mm but has great color.
>>
>>4393603
that means you're learning
>>
Fairly new to film photohraphy. I am going to a family dinner on christmas at my sisters house. What film rolls are best for indoor events like this? At this point I only have one roll of Ektar 100, but I am guessing that's not suited well foe this, so what roll should I buy and bring? Preferably something accessible and not some obscure roll you can only get online.
Thanks
>>
>>4393510
no worries, its 100g of sodium sulfite and 7.5g of elon/metol in 1L of water for d-23

i prefer this film developer as i can make it my own and its relatively cheap to buy the raw chemicals. the two bath developer i posted also makes way for using different stocks and iso of films very easily, if i ever need to test a film i havent tried before i can just stick it in there and itll come out okay (if the box speeds are the actual speed).
>>
>>4393646
Ektar and a flash, preferrably ttl but thyristor is fine too, optimally one that can angle upwards.
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>>4393646
fuji 400 aka fujimax
sold at walmart in 3 packs
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>>4393629
this would look so sick on a darkroom print
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>>4393646
don't use Ektar it'll fuck up the skin tones (unless they're dark skin tones) and you have a flash

shoot b&w, something with a box speed of 400
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>>4393618
man I hate gold on 135 but that looks nice
maybe I just am not into gold + frontier tho
>>
>>4393646
if you have a flash ektar is fine, if you do not have a flash but it'll be well lit i'd suggest some flavor of 800T
>>
>>4393555
Damn Anon, that is coincidental. I would love to go on some photo walks with other Anons here, but I should note I'm not in Rialto but in Amsterdam
>>
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>>4393663
I wish I had easy access to a darkroom
maybe in the future
another train, not as moody as the first one

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>>
File: _DSC4836-Pano.jpg (3.64 MB, 9218x8761)
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more beaver stuff
I need to get a decent film holder asap

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>>
>>4393802
kentmere film my beloved

was this handheld or was this on a tripod? i may steal this composition from you haha
>>
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an short
>>
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>>4393837
an bit longer
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>>4393808
looks comfy I like the vignetting
what camera? I'm looking for a 6x6 with a decent viewfinder and a good lens. I have an Ikoflex and a Mamiya six but the ikoflex has a soft, decentered lens and the Mamiya has a tiny vf/rf that makes it impossible to frame or focus. Thinking maybe Mamiya TLR or a Bronica.
>>
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>>4393839
Mamiya C is a good choice, if you want interchangeable lenses without breaking the bank then it's pretty much the only game in town now that every MF SLR has inflated to the god damn moon. I used to have the Bronica SQ and I found most of the lenses soft and underwhelming, your mileage may vary but I'm not going to buy another one. TLR can be a pain to get used to but the later C models have features to minimize the annoyance that comes with it, and not having a mirror mechanism is at least one less potential point of failure.

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>>
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>>4393802
there was no other way than to shoot it on a tripod mate, around 2 seconds on f8, with film pushed to 1600
>>4393808
Minolta Autocord with Rokkor 75mm f/3.5, the lens is really excellent, it's better than the lenses in Rolleicords
the camera has a focus lever instead of a knob, it's more comfortable to use. Earliest versions like mine, doesn't have fresnel lens, so I had to mod it

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties:
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>>
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Can someone tell me why my film photos don't look like this?
The colors, the sharpness, the depth of field.
Everything about these photos looks so good and I don't understand why my SLR is unable to achieve this.
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>>4393894
Let's see one of your pics. It could be a number of things.
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>>4393894
Are you ordering lab scans? Lab scans suck dick

The grain is not even grain, its oversharpened digital noise
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>>4393897
>Leica
Thats why obviously :A)
>>
>>4393904
Leica deez nuts on yo face
>>
>>4393918
walked right into that one didnt i
>>
>>4393918
>>4393904
LEICA? You barely know her!



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