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THE "WE'LL ACTUALLY POST PHOTOS" EDITION

>thread question
who's your biggest influence in your photography? do you have any photos that resemble their body of work?

Previous thread >>4399633

/fgt/ daily reminder (courtesy by anon): one stop per decade is (generally) bullshit
>negative film ages better than positive
>black and white better than color
>slow films better than fast
>storage conditions (dry/cool) matter more than years
>Negative film is shot 1 or 2 stops overexposed and then PULLED in development so that you build more density in the exposure and develop less such that the fog is limited
>slide/positive film is shot at box speed or overexposed and pulled.
>if you home develop you can also use benzotriazole as a restrainer for the the first developer in E6 process


Useful links
>[massive dev chart] gives times for home film development
https://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php
>[film dev] shows results of development regimes
https://filmdev.org/
>[news & community links]
35mmc.com
casualphotophile.com
kosmofoto.com
emulsive.org
japancamerahunter.com
>>
>>4402826
>Still 20+ from image limit on old thread which is only on page 3
Why make a new one already
>>
>>4402840
because last thread hit bump limit, and when the /fgt/ thread hits the bump limit people hold their photos to post in the new thread or else they'll be ignored, so the thread either stalls or turns into gearfaggotry
having a fresh thread is inviting for posting photos
which is the thread's goal
>>
here's some gearfaggotry for the new thread. i got a fuji gf670w last month and the weather was nice enough to test it out over a long weekend. it is nice having a fuji 6x7 rangefinder again, i used to own a gf670 but the folding mechanism was kind of tiring, and the bellows always worried me since i started taking it backpacking. this one doesn't have any folding mechanism to deal with, just an on/off switch. it's still very compact and weighs about the same as the gf670. i've been enjoying the 28mm focal length lately on my 35mm cameras and the 55mm f4.5 is like a 28mm equivalent with a little extra room on the top and bottom.

i tested it out with some slower shutter speeds to see how low i could handhold it, this one was at 1/60 f4.5 and it's nice and sharp.

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>>
>>4402890
this is about as much as i could get it to flare. pretty good considering i had a uv filter on it.

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>>
>>4402891
i tested out the 6x6 mode, which puts down some blinds and changes the gearing to take 12 photos instead of 10. i am not a square format shooter though and i don't think i'll ever be. feels like a waste to get this camera and shoot 6x6 mainly, at that point just get a mamiya 6 with the 50mm or something.

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>>
>>4402892
long exposure + tripod test went well, it can go all the way to 4s. had to greyscale this one because the colors got too fucked up

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>>
File: hors.jpg (4.16 MB, 5853x3914)
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>>4402826
>bought a pentacon six
>when it's cold outside, the shutter doesnt close on 1/125th, other speeds seem fine

Seems like a fucked 1/125th is a common issue on these so hopefully no big deal to fix.

Just went through a roll of the new foma ortho 400 so I hope at least some images are usable, if so I'll post em

Image is 500T snapshit from my trusty canon iv

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>>
>>4402893
i wish it had strap lugs so it hangs horizontal but i'm used to it from the gf670. i'm also used to the advance wheel, i actually think i like it more than a classic wind lever by now. the only real issue is that the grips on the lens barrel to focus it are placed in a terrible position and you can't really grip it from below when rotating it to close focus. it's almost as if they wanted you to focus the lens by gripping it from above.

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>>
>>4402890
good stuff anon
>>
>>4402895
anyways it is a really enjoyable camera to use. feels really great in the hands. the viewfinder is massive and bright and it's very easy to focus. the meter is very accurate and aperture priority is fun. it wasn't cheap but i have big plans for it this year.

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>>
>>4402894
Even if a CLA fixes the shutter, P6s are notoriously unreliable. You are giga fucked, it will die on you at the worst possible time and it will ruin your life. There's a reason this is one of the cheapest ways to get into medium format. Always bring a backup camera with you, at least. Also, https://www.pentaconsix.com/ is a good resource.
>>
>>4402901
Cute dog.
>>
>>4402893
Beautiful
>>
How do you guys cut your 35mm film for archival?
Using scissors feels way too easy to fuck my negatives up.
>>
>>4402896
>>4402907
thanks anons

>>4402909
a sharp and heavy pair of scissors, and i haven't really fucked up yet after many many rolls. the key is to hold the strip over a light table and then focus on cutting at the other end of the strip. for some reason it works pretty well for me, if i start inbetween a frame and then keep my eyes focused on the other side, i can get a nice straight cut in one slice. practice on the blank end of a film strip and cut from one sprocket hole to the corresponding hole on the other side.
>>
File: hills.jpg (4.42 MB, 5794x3844)
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>>4402901
Thanks for the website anon, I hope mine will be built different than yours :D

It was like 150$ for the body + 80mm 2.8 Biometar + a 250mm telear with a 2x TC so not much money will be lost, even after the CLA.

I shall stop gearfagging from now on, have more noisily scanned early autumn 500T /fgt/

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>>
>>4402912
I never had one actually, one of my friends did (didn't last long) btw WHY ARE YOU SCANNING AT ISO 6400 XDDD

>>4402909
anything other than scissors is retarded, as a photographer you should have the hand-eye coordination not to fuck it up
>>
>>4402897
nice photos, anon, they look cozy
i like Portra better when it's not overexposed for >muh pastel colors

anyway, here are some 4x5s from december and january
I made contact prints for some of them too
I'll try to achieve this level of contrast next time I go to the darkroom

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>>
File: [0.10] Tipuana_medres.jpg (4.45 MB, 6811x8491)
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>>4402931
i don't think there are enough photos to justify making up a new thread

there's room for improvement in scanning and stitching but that's alright

2/10

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>>
>>4402909
A small pair of very sharp sewing scissors that I only use for this purpose. Pro tip: you can get rocket blowers for way cheaper at your local soccer mom cRaFtiNg store - it's the same thing, but packaged for blowing ink around on a page and like a quarter of the price as when sold for photography
>>
>>4402932
3/10

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>>
>>4402937
4/10

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>>
File: [1.2] MASP_medres.jpg (4.8 MB, 6817x8534)
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>>4402940
5/10

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>>
>>4402941
6/10

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>>
>>4402942
7/10

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>>
File: [1.6] Gajumaru_medres.jpg (4.22 MB, 8519x6719)
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>>4402943
8/10
i've always loved this tree

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>>
>>4402931 ... >>4402944
great stuff, nice flat contrast, easy to correct in the darkroom or lightroom

i need to start scanning my film, as i no longer has access to a 4x5 enlarger, only up to 6x7. at least i can use a 120 back on my tachihara.
>>
>>4402944
9/10
i was messing with tilts and swings to learn it better and experiment a bit
I don't think this is a particularly good photo, it's the one I like the least from this bunch
but it's nice how i was able to use a bit of swing and it worked out to use focus to create a path that leads to the cage

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>>
>>4402946
10/10
this one was a study to better learn the whole swing thing
very mundane, sure, but it was great for learning

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>>
File: 20250201_165944.jpg (1.96 MB, 2113x2662)
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Today's dev sesh was all about extremes. Two very careful 4x5 lens test shots on Ektar 100, and then two rolls of point and shoot snapshits on Fauxji from Wally World that have been lying around in my fridge for months because I couldn't be assed to dev them.

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>>
>>4402946
>>4402947
again, great learning experiences. you nailed the contrast/exposure in the books/toothbrush one.

i love tilt focusing on random stuff just so i can get the most out of my camera. i mean i bought the camera with the bellows im going to use the whole camera with the bellows!!!!
>>
>>4402945
>>4402950
thanks, anon
i'm happy to read that
now I just gotta get better at enlarging stuff
I've been doing some contact prints in my bathroom with a very improvised setup but what's bothering the most is contrast
I've been using a warm light, I don't know if a colder one would help with that

>as i no longer has access to a 4x5 enlarger
have you tried using the camera itself to enlarge your negatives?
I haven't tried this yet
>>
>>4402955
yea definitely the warm light is effecting the print. contact printing 4x5 is hard work tho

i have seen the intrepid 4x5 enlarger kit but idk if my beseler 67s can be taken off the post so i can place the kit with my toyo omega view on it
and even if i did, the toyo i have kind of sucks. it doesnt tend to stay in one position for too long, but ill look into it.
>>
>>4402957
i too use a Toyo Omega View!
it's a 45D, I believe, but I can't tell it apart from the 45C or other 45s
I was thinking of just sandwiching the negative between 2 photo frame glasses and just placing it on top of the camera (on its back, with it facing down)
I can cut a thin sheet of wood for it to stay still and leveled

>the toyo i have kind of sucks
which one is it?
there are some things that would be nice to have like precision knobs but I love it, it's enough for me to do everything I want to (and i experiment a lot)
>>
>>4402959
toyo omega view 45e, no smooth knobs :(

and goddamn bro youre going out in the field with a monorail? once i got my tachihara its a dream of putting everything in one bag (camera in a wrap) vs staying near my car all the time.

but yeah i do wish my tachihara had a few more extreme movements, however in real world applications i dont use much tilt unless im doing real wacky stuff, in which ill use the toyo. in fact, i need to get a linhof board to toyo converter as i switched all (two) of my lenses to linhof-style boards to fit the tachihara.
>>
File: wowee.jpg (1.09 MB, 2075x3130)
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>>4402826
> who's your biggest influence in your photography? do you have any photos that resemble their body of work?

Movies are usually the biggest influence or inspiration; however, I fail miserably to replicate the look I see. Wong Kar-wai, Paul Schrader's Mishima biopic, Kubrick.

photo unrelated. I dont know how I would have metered this differently because the left side is blown out but the foreground is underexposed. Maybe take the average of the 2?

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>>
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>>4402962
grainy

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>>
>>4402964
tried to take photos of surfers with a long, manual lens. really difficult. I wish this person was looking my way.
>>
File: wowee-2.jpg (2.35 MB, 2600x1724)
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>>4402965
forgot photo.

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>>
File: wowee-3.jpg (1.43 MB, 2898x1922)
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>>4402966
cinestill 50d on zuiko 1.8. i think it's pretty sweet.

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>>
Just got an Autocord and a roll of FP4. What am I in for?
>>
>>4402961
>and goddamn bro youre going out in the field with a monorail?
yep, around 12,5kg (27 pounds) in a duffel bag and a totebag
and taking public transport
not the most practical shooting routine, but it's doable

>>4402962
you can't have everything
dynamic range only goes so far
you can use split ND filters, or shoot two images and make a composite
don't know if there are any other ways to get everything properly exposed
>>
>>4402968
6x6 pictures
>>
>>4402962
You could have pulled the film to reduce contrast, but then all your other pics would be screwed. Depending on the type of film color negative can havd a crap load of latitude so you would expose for the shadows and hope for the best.
>>
You would think there would be established times for pushing kentmere 400 to 3200 with Microphen. 20 minutes just seems like too much based off of Massive's equations.

>>4402964
>>4402965
>>4402966

I like it. good job anon
>>
So this started out as designing and testing a 3d printed lens board so I could put the 210mm lens from my Calumet monorail on my Graflex for a trip I have coming up, and then evolved into comparing the Caltar 210 with the Optar 135 in as objective a way as I could manage.

Parameters were as follows: Same scene with the tripod fully locked in so nothing charges except obviously the FOV due to the difference in focal length. Same film stock (Ektar 100 for finest possible grain in color to evaluate sharpness). Both images shot at f/22 (which is typically where a large format lens is sharpest) with 1/30 exposure for the Caltar and 1/25 exposure for the Optar - I would have liked to have identical shutter speeds but the shutters don't line up and frankly given the age of the Graphex shutter the margin of error would probably render the difference meaningless anyway. Both sheets were then developed simultaneously in a temp controlled bath, "scanned" in quarters and stitched in photoshop, and converted with identical NLP settings and no tweaking of anything.

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Light SourceUnknown
Focal Length210.00 mm
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White BalanceAuto
Scene Capture TypeStandard
Gain ControlLow Gain Up
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>>
>>4402982
While far from scientific, I think the results are kind of interesting. There's a definite difference in the way each lens renders color. The 210mm is clearly sharper if you pixel peep at 100%, and the colors are more vivid, but I find myself kinda liking the old 135mm more for some reason.

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>>4402983
that one has way nicer colors for sure, other one is way too reddish-brown
it's crazy how much difference the lenses make
>>
>>4402990
So the Caltar (aka Rodenstock Geronar) actually reproduces the colors more accurately to at least my vision - I'm not a botanist so idk what it's called but that scrub that grows along the banks of the Missouri has a reddish tint to it, which I would expect to be exaggerated a bit by Ektar. But I like the faded blue tinge of the Graflex lens more too.
>>
>>4402998
I also often prefer a colder color balance so I guess it's just down to personal preference.
>>
I live in a decent sized city. What are some good subjects or scenes I could take in black and white film that are good for that medium? I've only shot color before.
>>
>>4403113
You're going about this the wrong way. You have to find something you love or hate or holds your interest somehow. Photography is secondary.
>>
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>>4402921
>why 6400
I might have left the fuji on auto iso for this roll, I'll rescan it when I have the time

anyways, time to post your photos nigga

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>>4402970
gotta save up for a field camera. game changer i tell you. less movements but there isnt much movements to be made unless youre being artistically.
>>
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Going to Japan for the first time this week, hoping to see pic related, but will mostly be based in Tokyo for the trip. My digital backlog is gigantic, so I think I wanna shoot mostly film if I can help it.

Any R A R E japan only films I should hunt down in Tokyo? I’ve heard that Showa brand film sucks but are there any fujifilm rolls we don’t usually see in the US? Is Venus 800 still made? I will def bring my 35mm Minolta, not sure if I want to haul my Pentax67 as well

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>>
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Point-n-Shits on Fauxji 400

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>>4403172

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>>
>>4403172
>>4403173
I wish my p&s had QD for maximum aesthetics
>>
>>4403169
lol. my god you are stupid
>>
>>4403219
Eat shit
>>
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this is a lens flare right? i think i was using a lens hood

>>4402895
lovely colors
>>
>>4403346
looks like a light leak to me, but you gotta check your negatives to be sure
your colors are boomer-tier Ken Rockwell approved also
>>
>>4403361
>looks like a light leak to me
it only happened on 2 frames so far but it might be the darkslide that's a bit bent
>your colors are boomer-tier Ken Rockwell approved also
i struggled with the inversion on that roll, especially on that picture. i think i fucked up the scanning a bit
>>
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>>4403372
another from that roll
>>
>>4403373
>>4403346
The saturation is too bad, maybe a bit contrasty. The overly blue white balance stands out more to me than anything.
>>
>>4403374
Saturation is NOT too bad.
>>
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What typically happens to film if it is kept undeveloped for too long? (about 3 months on room temp)
>>
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>>4403397
>>
>>4403400
I need to come here with longer lens
>>
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any tips on turning negative scans into colour? I just developed my film for the first time and i've never used any software other than shit like pixlr.com.

tard enthusiast friendly program recommendations appreciated as well as tips that helped you guys at first. pic rel one of my negatives
>>
>>4403431
First you need to scan the border for a film base reference and use an appropriate backlight
https://forums.negativelabpro.com/t/suggested-backlight-sources-for-scanning-film-with-dslr/130/2

photoshop/similar
https://www.alexburkephoto.com/blog/2019/10/16/manual-inversion-of-color-negative-film
Capture one w/ raws (works in real time when scanning batches with a tethered camera), color correction principles with photoshop curves above still apply because c1 has all of photoshop’s color correction ability (plus really good auto masking and auto cropping)
https://fstoppers.com/education/how-convert-negatives-positives-using-capture-one-137988
>>
>>4403440
exactly the type of tutorial i've been looking for this is going to help thank you anon.

I was using my scanner but I bought it second hand and they gave me the wrong adapter to scan negatives. so the max dpi I was able to scan with was only 600 as apposed to like 4800
>>
going to a engagement party but its actually a wedding, only going as a guest but I thought I might bring a camera along anyway
got a M6 + 35mm, was thinking of bringing the RZ67 but the GW690 is "smaller" and easier to use.
what films should I bring?
>>
>>4403492
Well Portra 400/800 (outdoors/indoors) is THE wedding film. But I shot a friend's wedding non-professionally on CS400D and 800T and the halation turned out to fit the mood pretty well on a lot of the shots.
>>
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>>4402826
Kodak Gold 400
>>
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>>4403397
I think you should be ok. I literally had an undeveloped roll of Fuji 400 Xtra that I didn't have developed for 6 years after I shot it, and it turned out fine. Didn't even notice any colour shift.
>>
>>4403492
my advice would be to only bring the M6
you're a guest in a wedding
you were not invited as a photographer, you are not there for this purpose, you're not meant to draw attention to your oversized toy (you're not supposed to draw attention at someone else's wedding at all)
being a good friend is more important than taking a huge 6x9 photo with your dog-sized camera
have some common sense
they're also paying photographers to be there and cover each and every moment
bring your M6, take some photos, and have fun
taking photos is secondary
>>
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tried another roll of psych blues #5, this time with a real camera instead of a p&s. I think i'll probably grab some more rolls of it to use going forward, its just too much fun. I might try some of their other offerings, #6 was also fun but I think its relegated to a p&s film due to being even more unpredictable.

>>4403535
based priorities anon
>>
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>>4403548
>>
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>>4403549
>>
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>>4403550
>>
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>>4403551
>>
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>>4403552
>>
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>>4403534
>>
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hey /p/, I just bought a Nikon Nikkor 90mm f/4.5 lens for 4x5 shooting
>I'm this anon >>4402931
in a rough measurement I see that my belows can get as close as around 95mm
I would have to buy a proper lensboard for my camera anyway, so I bought a 40mm recessed lensboard, which is more than enough for the lens to properly focus at infinity
but just for future reference, how should I be measuring this?
I measured from where the film plane is up to where the shutter would be
is that correct?
thanks
>>
>>4403568
The nodal point. Usually roughly the center of the lens.
>>
>>4403573
great, thanks a lot
good thing I bought the recessed board, then
even if I squished the belows together I'd be at the limit for 90mm, and this also means I'd have no room for camera movements
with extra 40mm infinity focus should be achievable with the belows at around 130mm
>>
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Ordered some film from Japan while it's still exist (expired 2018).
I just hope that postal packages are not x-ray scanned

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>>4403373
same roll but rescanned, maybe a bit cool but much better imo
>>
>>4403535
yeah thats fair, ill just take the m6 and some portra, i might also have some pro 400H i can test out
>>
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>>4403534
Then I shouldn't worry about this.
I'm trying to collect more film for development to better use the developer after opening
>>
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What do you use to scan/convert negatives? I'm currently using Nikon Scan 4 but the output requires curves+color adjustment 100% of the time, and I think the direct output of something like silverfast just looks better generally. Then again, vuescan+negative lab pro could work just as well.

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>>4403667
vuescan for flat scan and colorperfect for conversion. not just for color but also for bw
>>
>>4402909
I recommend this little negative cutter with light table off amazon, under $40, I cut and scan many rolls at a time so this saves me a huge pain in the ass.

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Have a moon.

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>>
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>>4403697
you ever needed to replace the blade?
the 4-pack of replacement blades costs almost as much as the thing itself
>>
why should i shoot hp5? i like delta and moving away from kentmere (although idk if i can since delta aint cheap)
>>
>>4403791

is artistic medium high contrast nice grain
>>
>>4403696
Haven't tried that plugin yet. Will check thanks.
>>
>>4403848
It’s a little bit tricky to use require learning.
To resize window you will need to download version specific for your screen and paste it over installed version
https://www.colorperfect.com/download-modified-plug-ins-for-various-screen-resolutions/
>>
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>>4403667
Just negadoctor on Darktable, for usual C41 stuff works great out of the box. For Vision3 or aerocolor I need to tweak it a bit more.

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>>
>>4403697
lol i just use the scissors on my leatherman
>>
>>4403791
you shouldn't, it's shit. even kentmere or foma is better.
tmax is cheaper and basically the same as delta
and for some reason cheaper than hp5 in 120 but more expensive in 35mm?
>>
Check it out. The rolleimarin.

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I attempted some panning. Crazy idea, since the success rate is very low, specially on a manual lens.

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>>
>>4403971
Byoutiful
>>
>>4403953
>it's shit
>even kentmere or foma is better
please expand on that
>>
>>4403992
too grainy, and the grain is ugly
t-grain looks good at rated ISO
push any 100 speed film to 400 and you get less grain
xx is grainy but the grain is pleasant
hp5 and tri-x exist only to pander to the "muh homeless people snapshit needs to look grungy" demographic
>>
>>4403971
Looks like a carburetor with a lens
>>
>>4404048
It does look like a car part. Imagine if Vivian maier had one of these.

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for me it's the hasselblad underwater housing
>>
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>>4404065
For me, its the Graflex KE-4
>>
>>4404065
I wonder if the back glass would allow for a 70mm back. That way you could take over 15 shots before needing to open it up.

>>4404068
Almost got one of those on ebay. They're a beastly camera. Did you know they have a knife in them that let's you cut your film mid roll?
>>
is instax backs for medium formats a meme? is it worth the cost or are you literally better off just using a classic land camera polaroid
>>
>>4404131
It can be worth it, but if you just want an instant picture snapshitter, probably not.
>>
>>4404133
its mostly about the process but also the feel of shooting on my hassy with much better controls than a polaroid camera. but if the backs are off focus and light scatters unevenly and shit like that I don't know if it's worth it.
>>
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>>4404065

For me, it's the Leningrad.

If I could find a working one.
>>
>>4404083
sad to see that most of those are only for parts, my usual repair guy will probably scream to get the fuck out If I came with one of those lmao.
>They have a knife in them to cut film mid roll
neat, I think that I have only seen that on Exactas before
>>
>>4404065
for me it's the GX617
>>
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>>4404065
For me it's the GX680
>>
>>4404032
>too grainy, and the grain is ugly
>t-grain looks good at rated ISO
so is it ugly or does it look good?
>push any 100 speed film to 400 and you get less grain
you mentioned Foma and it looks grainy as sandpaper
>xx is grainy but the grain is pleasant
xx always looks like newspaper photos
I don't dislike it, but the grain is WAY more noticeable than HP5's and very coarse
>hp5 and tri-x exist only to pander to the "muh homeless people snapshit needs to look grungy" demographic
vague statement
lack of arguments
HP5 also doesn't look "grungy" in the slightest

Have you ever seen anything shot on HP5?



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