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THE "WE'LL ACTUALLY POST PHOTOS" EDITION

>thread question
who's your biggest influence in your photography? do you have any photos that resemble their body of work?

Previous thread >>4399633 →

/fgt/ daily reminder (courtesy by anon): one stop per decade is (generally) bullshit
>negative film ages better than positive
>black and white better than color
>slow films better than fast
>storage conditions (dry/cool) matter more than years
>Negative film is shot 1 or 2 stops overexposed and then PULLED in development so that you build more density in the exposure and develop less such that the fog is limited
>slide/positive film is shot at box speed or overexposed and pulled.
>if you home develop you can also use benzotriazole as a restrainer for the the first developer in E6 process


Useful links
>[massive dev chart] gives times for home film development
https://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php
>[film dev] shows results of development regimes
https://filmdev.org/
>[news & community links]
35mmc.com
casualphotophile.com
kosmofoto.com
emulsive.org
japancamerahunter.com
>>
>>4402826 (OP)
>Still 20+ from image limit on old thread which is only on page 3
Why make a new one already
>>
>>4402840
because last thread hit bump limit, and when the /fgt/ thread hits the bump limit people hold their photos to post in the new thread or else they'll be ignored, so the thread either stalls or turns into gearfaggotry
having a fresh thread is inviting for posting photos
which is the thread's goal
>>
here's some gearfaggotry for the new thread. i got a fuji gf670w last month and the weather was nice enough to test it out over a long weekend. it is nice having a fuji 6x7 rangefinder again, i used to own a gf670 but the folding mechanism was kind of tiring, and the bellows always worried me since i started taking it backpacking. this one doesn't have any folding mechanism to deal with, just an on/off switch. it's still very compact and weighs about the same as the gf670. i've been enjoying the 28mm focal length lately on my 35mm cameras and the 55mm f4.5 is like a 28mm equivalent with a little extra room on the top and bottom.

i tested it out with some slower shutter speeds to see how low i could handhold it, this one was at 1/60 f4.5 and it's nice and sharp.

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>>
>>4402890
this is about as much as i could get it to flare. pretty good considering i had a uv filter on it.

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>>
>>4402891
i tested out the 6x6 mode, which puts down some blinds and changes the gearing to take 12 photos instead of 10. i am not a square format shooter though and i don't think i'll ever be. feels like a waste to get this camera and shoot 6x6 mainly, at that point just get a mamiya 6 with the 50mm or something.

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>>
>>4402892
long exposure + tripod test went well, it can go all the way to 4s. had to greyscale this one because the colors got too fucked up

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>>
File: hors.jpg (4.16 MB, 5853x3914)
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>>4402826 (OP)
>bought a pentacon six
>when it's cold outside, the shutter doesnt close on 1/125th, other speeds seem fine

Seems like a fucked 1/125th is a common issue on these so hopefully no big deal to fix.

Just went through a roll of the new foma ortho 400 so I hope at least some images are usable, if so I'll post em

Image is 500T snapshit from my trusty canon iv

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>>
>>4402893
i wish it had strap lugs so it hangs horizontal but i'm used to it from the gf670. i'm also used to the advance wheel, i actually think i like it more than a classic wind lever by now. the only real issue is that the grips on the lens barrel to focus it are placed in a terrible position and you can't really grip it from below when rotating it to close focus. it's almost as if they wanted you to focus the lens by gripping it from above.

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>>
>>4402890
good stuff anon
>>
>>4402895
anyways it is a really enjoyable camera to use. feels really great in the hands. the viewfinder is massive and bright and it's very easy to focus. the meter is very accurate and aperture priority is fun. it wasn't cheap but i have big plans for it this year.

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>>
>>4402894
Even if a CLA fixes the shutter, P6s are notoriously unreliable. You are giga fucked, it will die on you at the worst possible time and it will ruin your life. There's a reason this is one of the cheapest ways to get into medium format. Always bring a backup camera with you, at least. Also, https://www.pentaconsix.com/ is a good resource.
>>
>>4402901
Cute dog.
>>
>>4402893
Beautiful
>>
How do you guys cut your 35mm film for archival?
Using scissors feels way too easy to fuck my negatives up.
>>
>>4402896
>>4402907
thanks anons

>>4402909
a sharp and heavy pair of scissors, and i haven't really fucked up yet after many many rolls. the key is to hold the strip over a light table and then focus on cutting at the other end of the strip. for some reason it works pretty well for me, if i start inbetween a frame and then keep my eyes focused on the other side, i can get a nice straight cut in one slice. practice on the blank end of a film strip and cut from one sprocket hole to the corresponding hole on the other side.
>>
File: hills.jpg (4.42 MB, 5794x3844)
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>>4402901
Thanks for the website anon, I hope mine will be built different than yours :D

It was like 150$ for the body + 80mm 2.8 Biometar + a 250mm telear with a 2x TC so not much money will be lost, even after the CLA.

I shall stop gearfagging from now on, have more noisily scanned early autumn 500T /fgt/

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>>
>>4402912
I never had one actually, one of my friends did (didn't last long) btw WHY ARE YOU SCANNING AT ISO 6400 XDDD

>>4402909
anything other than scissors is retarded, as a photographer you should have the hand-eye coordination not to fuck it up
>>
>>4402897
nice photos, anon, they look cozy
i like Portra better when it's not overexposed for >muh pastel colors

anyway, here are some 4x5s from december and january
I made contact prints for some of them too
I'll try to achieve this level of contrast next time I go to the darkroom

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>>
File: [0.10] Tipuana_medres.jpg (4.45 MB, 6811x8491)
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>>4402931
i don't think there are enough photos to justify making up a new thread

there's room for improvement in scanning and stitching but that's alright

2/10

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>>
>>4402909
A small pair of very sharp sewing scissors that I only use for this purpose. Pro tip: you can get rocket blowers for way cheaper at your local soccer mom cRaFtiNg store - it's the same thing, but packaged for blowing ink around on a page and like a quarter of the price as when sold for photography
>>
>>4402932
3/10

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>>
>>4402937
4/10

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>>
File: [1.2] MASP_medres.jpg (4.8 MB, 6817x8534)
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>>4402940
5/10

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>>
>>4402941
6/10

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>>
>>4402942
7/10

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>>
File: [1.6] Gajumaru_medres.jpg (4.22 MB, 8519x6719)
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>>4402943
8/10
i've always loved this tree

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>>
>>4402931 ... >>4402944
great stuff, nice flat contrast, easy to correct in the darkroom or lightroom

i need to start scanning my film, as i no longer has access to a 4x5 enlarger, only up to 6x7. at least i can use a 120 back on my tachihara.
>>
>>4402944
9/10
i was messing with tilts and swings to learn it better and experiment a bit
I don't think this is a particularly good photo, it's the one I like the least from this bunch
but it's nice how i was able to use a bit of swing and it worked out to use focus to create a path that leads to the cage

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>>
>>4402946
10/10
this one was a study to better learn the whole swing thing
very mundane, sure, but it was great for learning

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>>
File: 20250201_165944.jpg (1.96 MB, 2113x2662)
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Today's dev sesh was all about extremes. Two very careful 4x5 lens test shots on Ektar 100, and then two rolls of point and shoot snapshits on Fauxji from Wally World that have been lying around in my fridge for months because I couldn't be assed to dev them.

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>>
>>4402946
>>4402947
again, great learning experiences. you nailed the contrast/exposure in the books/toothbrush one.

i love tilt focusing on random stuff just so i can get the most out of my camera. i mean i bought the camera with the bellows im going to use the whole camera with the bellows!!!!
>>
>>4402945
>>4402950
thanks, anon
i'm happy to read that
now I just gotta get better at enlarging stuff
I've been doing some contact prints in my bathroom with a very improvised setup but what's bothering the most is contrast
I've been using a warm light, I don't know if a colder one would help with that

>as i no longer has access to a 4x5 enlarger
have you tried using the camera itself to enlarge your negatives?
I haven't tried this yet
>>
>>4402955
yea definitely the warm light is effecting the print. contact printing 4x5 is hard work tho

i have seen the intrepid 4x5 enlarger kit but idk if my beseler 67s can be taken off the post so i can place the kit with my toyo omega view on it
and even if i did, the toyo i have kind of sucks. it doesnt tend to stay in one position for too long, but ill look into it.
>>
>>4402957
i too use a Toyo Omega View!
it's a 45D, I believe, but I can't tell it apart from the 45C or other 45s
I was thinking of just sandwiching the negative between 2 photo frame glasses and just placing it on top of the camera (on its back, with it facing down)
I can cut a thin sheet of wood for it to stay still and leveled

>the toyo i have kind of sucks
which one is it?
there are some things that would be nice to have like precision knobs but I love it, it's enough for me to do everything I want to (and i experiment a lot)
>>
>>4402959
toyo omega view 45e, no smooth knobs :(

and goddamn bro youre going out in the field with a monorail? once i got my tachihara its a dream of putting everything in one bag (camera in a wrap) vs staying near my car all the time.

but yeah i do wish my tachihara had a few more extreme movements, however in real world applications i dont use much tilt unless im doing real wacky stuff, in which ill use the toyo. in fact, i need to get a linhof board to toyo converter as i switched all (two) of my lenses to linhof-style boards to fit the tachihara.
>>
File: wowee.jpg (1.09 MB, 2075x3130)
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>>4402826 (OP)
> who's your biggest influence in your photography? do you have any photos that resemble their body of work?

Movies are usually the biggest influence or inspiration; however, I fail miserably to replicate the look I see. Wong Kar-wai, Paul Schrader's Mishima biopic, Kubrick.

photo unrelated. I dont know how I would have metered this differently because the left side is blown out but the foreground is underexposed. Maybe take the average of the 2?

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>>
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>>4402962
grainy

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>>
>>4402964
tried to take photos of surfers with a long, manual lens. really difficult. I wish this person was looking my way.
>>
File: wowee-2.jpg (2.35 MB, 2600x1724)
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>>4402965
forgot photo.

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>>
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>>4402966
cinestill 50d on zuiko 1.8. i think it's pretty sweet.

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>>
Just got an Autocord and a roll of FP4. What am I in for?
>>
>>4402961
>and goddamn bro youre going out in the field with a monorail?
yep, around 12,5kg (27 pounds) in a duffel bag and a totebag
and taking public transport
not the most practical shooting routine, but it's doable

>>4402962
you can't have everything
dynamic range only goes so far
you can use split ND filters, or shoot two images and make a composite
don't know if there are any other ways to get everything properly exposed
>>
>>4402968
6x6 pictures
>>
>>4402962
You could have pulled the film to reduce contrast, but then all your other pics would be screwed. Depending on the type of film color negative can havd a crap load of latitude so you would expose for the shadows and hope for the best.
>>
You would think there would be established times for pushing kentmere 400 to 3200 with Microphen. 20 minutes just seems like too much based off of Massive's equations.

>>4402964
>>4402965
>>4402966

I like it. good job anon
>>
So this started out as designing and testing a 3d printed lens board so I could put the 210mm lens from my Calumet monorail on my Graflex for a trip I have coming up, and then evolved into comparing the Caltar 210 with the Optar 135 in as objective a way as I could manage.

Parameters were as follows: Same scene with the tripod fully locked in so nothing charges except obviously the FOV due to the difference in focal length. Same film stock (Ektar 100 for finest possible grain in color to evaluate sharpness). Both images shot at f/22 (which is typically where a large format lens is sharpest) with 1/30 exposure for the Caltar and 1/25 exposure for the Optar - I would have liked to have identical shutter speeds but the shutters don't line up and frankly given the age of the Graphex shutter the margin of error would probably render the difference meaningless anyway. Both sheets were then developed simultaneously in a temp controlled bath, "scanned" in quarters and stitched in photoshop, and converted with identical NLP settings and no tweaking of anything.

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ISO Speed Rating100
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>>4402982
While far from scientific, I think the results are kind of interesting. There's a definite difference in the way each lens renders color. The 210mm is clearly sharper if you pixel peep at 100%, and the colors are more vivid, but I find myself kinda liking the old 135mm more for some reason.

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>>4402983
that one has way nicer colors for sure, other one is way too reddish-brown
it's crazy how much difference the lenses make
>>
>>4402990
So the Caltar (aka Rodenstock Geronar) actually reproduces the colors more accurately to at least my vision - I'm not a botanist so idk what it's called but that scrub that grows along the banks of the Missouri has a reddish tint to it, which I would expect to be exaggerated a bit by Ektar. But I like the faded blue tinge of the Graflex lens more too.
>>
>>4402998
I also often prefer a colder color balance so I guess it's just down to personal preference.
>>
I live in a decent sized city. What are some good subjects or scenes I could take in black and white film that are good for that medium? I've only shot color before.
>>
>>4403113
You're going about this the wrong way. You have to find something you love or hate or holds your interest somehow. Photography is secondary.
>>
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>>4402921
>why 6400
I might have left the fuji on auto iso for this roll, I'll rescan it when I have the time

anyways, time to post your photos nigga

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>>4402970
gotta save up for a field camera. game changer i tell you. less movements but there isnt much movements to be made unless youre being artistically.
>>
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Going to Japan for the first time this week, hoping to see pic related, but will mostly be based in Tokyo for the trip. My digital backlog is gigantic, so I think I wanna shoot mostly film if I can help it.

Any R A R E japan only films I should hunt down in Tokyo? I’ve heard that Showa brand film sucks but are there any fujifilm rolls we don’t usually see in the US? Is Venus 800 still made? I will def bring my 35mm Minolta, not sure if I want to haul my Pentax67 as well

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Point-n-Shits on Fauxji 400

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>>4403172

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>>4403172
>>4403173
I wish my p&s had QD for maximum aesthetics
>>
>>4403169
lol. my god you are stupid
>>
>>4403219
Eat shit
>>
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this is a lens flare right? i think i was using a lens hood

>>4402895
lovely colors
>>
>>4403346
looks like a light leak to me, but you gotta check your negatives to be sure
your colors are boomer-tier Ken Rockwell approved also
>>
>>4403361
>looks like a light leak to me
it only happened on 2 frames so far but it might be the darkslide that's a bit bent
>your colors are boomer-tier Ken Rockwell approved also
i struggled with the inversion on that roll, especially on that picture. i think i fucked up the scanning a bit
>>
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>>4403372
another from that roll
>>
>>4403373
>>4403346
The saturation is too bad, maybe a bit contrasty. The overly blue white balance stands out more to me than anything.
>>
>>4403374
Saturation is NOT too bad.
>>
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What typically happens to film if it is kept undeveloped for too long? (about 3 months on room temp)
>>
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>>4403397
>>
>>4403400
I need to come here with longer lens
>>
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any tips on turning negative scans into colour? I just developed my film for the first time and i've never used any software other than shit like pixlr.com.

tard enthusiast friendly program recommendations appreciated as well as tips that helped you guys at first. pic rel one of my negatives
>>
>>4403431
First you need to scan the border for a film base reference and use an appropriate backlight
https://forums.negativelabpro.com/t/suggested-backlight-sources-for-scanning-film-with-dslr/130/2

photoshop/similar
https://www.alexburkephoto.com/blog/2019/10/16/manual-inversion-of-color-negative-film
Capture one w/ raws (works in real time when scanning batches with a tethered camera), color correction principles with photoshop curves above still apply because c1 has all of photoshop’s color correction ability (plus really good auto masking and auto cropping)
https://fstoppers.com/education/how-convert-negatives-positives-using-capture-one-137988
>>
>>4403440
exactly the type of tutorial i've been looking for this is going to help thank you anon.

I was using my scanner but I bought it second hand and they gave me the wrong adapter to scan negatives. so the max dpi I was able to scan with was only 600 as apposed to like 4800
>>
going to a engagement party but its actually a wedding, only going as a guest but I thought I might bring a camera along anyway
got a M6 + 35mm, was thinking of bringing the RZ67 but the GW690 is "smaller" and easier to use.
what films should I bring?
>>
>>4403492
Well Portra 400/800 (outdoors/indoors) is THE wedding film. But I shot a friend's wedding non-professionally on CS400D and 800T and the halation turned out to fit the mood pretty well on a lot of the shots.
>>
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>>4402826 (OP)
Kodak Gold 400
>>
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>>4403397
I think you should be ok. I literally had an undeveloped roll of Fuji 400 Xtra that I didn't have developed for 6 years after I shot it, and it turned out fine. Didn't even notice any colour shift.
>>
>>4403492
my advice would be to only bring the M6
you're a guest in a wedding
you were not invited as a photographer, you are not there for this purpose, you're not meant to draw attention to your oversized toy (you're not supposed to draw attention at someone else's wedding at all)
being a good friend is more important than taking a huge 6x9 photo with your dog-sized camera
have some common sense
they're also paying photographers to be there and cover each and every moment
bring your M6, take some photos, and have fun
taking photos is secondary
>>
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tried another roll of psych blues #5, this time with a real camera instead of a p&s. I think i'll probably grab some more rolls of it to use going forward, its just too much fun. I might try some of their other offerings, #6 was also fun but I think its relegated to a p&s film due to being even more unpredictable.

>>4403535
based priorities anon
>>
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>>4403548
>>
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>>4403549
>>
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>>4403550
>>
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>>4403551
>>
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>>4403552
>>
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>>4403534
>>
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hey /p/, I just bought a Nikon Nikkor 90mm f/4.5 lens for 4x5 shooting
>I'm this anon >>4402931
in a rough measurement I see that my belows can get as close as around 95mm
I would have to buy a proper lensboard for my camera anyway, so I bought a 40mm recessed lensboard, which is more than enough for the lens to properly focus at infinity
but just for future reference, how should I be measuring this?
I measured from where the film plane is up to where the shutter would be
is that correct?
thanks
>>
>>4403568
The nodal point. Usually roughly the center of the lens.
>>
>>4403573
great, thanks a lot
good thing I bought the recessed board, then
even if I squished the belows together I'd be at the limit for 90mm, and this also means I'd have no room for camera movements
with extra 40mm infinity focus should be achievable with the belows at around 130mm
>>
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Ordered some film from Japan while it's still exist (expired 2018).
I just hope that postal packages are not x-ray scanned

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>>4403373
same roll but rescanned, maybe a bit cool but much better imo
>>
>>4403535
yeah thats fair, ill just take the m6 and some portra, i might also have some pro 400H i can test out
>>
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>>4403534
Then I shouldn't worry about this.
I'm trying to collect more film for development to better use the developer after opening
>>
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What do you use to scan/convert negatives? I'm currently using Nikon Scan 4 but the output requires curves+color adjustment 100% of the time, and I think the direct output of something like silverfast just looks better generally. Then again, vuescan+negative lab pro could work just as well.

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>>4403667
vuescan for flat scan and colorperfect for conversion. not just for color but also for bw
>>
>>4402909
I recommend this little negative cutter with light table off amazon, under $40, I cut and scan many rolls at a time so this saves me a huge pain in the ass.

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Have a moon.

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>>4403697
you ever needed to replace the blade?
the 4-pack of replacement blades costs almost as much as the thing itself
>>
why should i shoot hp5? i like delta and moving away from kentmere (although idk if i can since delta aint cheap)
>>
>>4403791

is artistic medium high contrast nice grain
>>
>>4403696
Haven't tried that plugin yet. Will check thanks.
>>
>>4403848
It’s a little bit tricky to use require learning.
To resize window you will need to download version specific for your screen and paste it over installed version
https://www.colorperfect.com/download-modified-plug-ins-for-various-screen-resolutions/
>>
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>>4403667
Just negadoctor on Darktable, for usual C41 stuff works great out of the box. For Vision3 or aerocolor I need to tweak it a bit more.

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>>4403697
lol i just use the scissors on my leatherman
>>
>>4403791
you shouldn't, it's shit. even kentmere or foma is better.
tmax is cheaper and basically the same as delta
and for some reason cheaper than hp5 in 120 but more expensive in 35mm?
>>
Check it out. The rolleimarin.

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I attempted some panning. Crazy idea, since the success rate is very low, specially on a manual lens.

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>>4403971
Byoutiful
>>
>>4403953
>it's shit
>even kentmere or foma is better
please expand on that
>>
>>4403992
too grainy, and the grain is ugly
t-grain looks good at rated ISO
push any 100 speed film to 400 and you get less grain
xx is grainy but the grain is pleasant
hp5 and tri-x exist only to pander to the "muh homeless people snapshit needs to look grungy" demographic
>>
>>4403971
Looks like a carburetor with a lens
>>
>>4404048
It does look like a car part. Imagine if Vivian maier had one of these.

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for me it's the hasselblad underwater housing
>>
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>>4404065
For me, its the Graflex KE-4
>>
>>4404065
I wonder if the back glass would allow for a 70mm back. That way you could take over 15 shots before needing to open it up.

>>4404068
Almost got one of those on ebay. They're a beastly camera. Did you know they have a knife in them that let's you cut your film mid roll?
>>
is instax backs for medium formats a meme? is it worth the cost or are you literally better off just using a classic land camera polaroid
>>
>>4404131
It can be worth it, but if you just want an instant picture snapshitter, probably not.
>>
>>4404133
its mostly about the process but also the feel of shooting on my hassy with much better controls than a polaroid camera. but if the backs are off focus and light scatters unevenly and shit like that I don't know if it's worth it.
>>
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>>4404065

For me, it's the Leningrad.

If I could find a working one.
>>
>>4404083
sad to see that most of those are only for parts, my usual repair guy will probably scream to get the fuck out If I came with one of those lmao.
>They have a knife in them to cut film mid roll
neat, I think that I have only seen that on Exactas before
>>
>>4404065
for me it's the GX617
>>
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>>4404065
For me it's the GX680
>>
>>4404032
>too grainy, and the grain is ugly
>t-grain looks good at rated ISO
so is it ugly or does it look good?
>push any 100 speed film to 400 and you get less grain
you mentioned Foma and it looks grainy as sandpaper
>xx is grainy but the grain is pleasant
xx always looks like newspaper photos
I don't dislike it, but the grain is WAY more noticeable than HP5's and very coarse
>hp5 and tri-x exist only to pander to the "muh homeless people snapshit needs to look grungy" demographic
vague statement
lack of arguments
HP5 also doesn't look "grungy" in the slightest

Have you ever seen anything shot on HP5?
>>
>>4404168
it's not just the amount of grain, but the character. good grain is smooth and even, and adds a bit of texture to otherwise flat areas of the image; bad grain is uneven, harsh, splotchy and distracting.
anyway I ain't gotta justify my objectively correct opinions to some rando on the internet.
>>
>>4404342
I know it's not just the amount blablabla
i just want to understand what's bad about tabular grain because i often see people parrot this but no point is ever made
>objectively correct
then use objective arguments rather than "hurr this waz made to uh like uhm take snapshots of hobos lol"
>>
>>4404346
nothing is wrong with tabular grain.
>t-grain looks good at rated ISO
is what I said
hp5 does not have tabular grain. hp5 has shit grain.
>use objective arguments
no
>>
>>4404486
>>use objective arguments
> no
fair kek
>{but i was truly interested in hearing in-depth extremely subjective rabid ramblings IF well pondered and well argued [whilst being silly and sassy (*winkwink*)]}
>but fo realz
>>
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What would be the best film stock and development method to achieve this look

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>>4404507
Old trix and d76 maybe, shot on 120 most likely.

It's old so there's a handful of old school developers it may have been as well.
>>
>>4404509
The problem is old trix is dead. And I can’t find anything close.
>>
>>4404511
I'd just play around with some 400 speed conventional grain films. I bet you could get close with a non-fine grained developer.
>>
>>4404507
Tri-x 320 in D-76
>>
r8 my cat

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>>4404586
>>4404514
>>4404511
>>4404509
I’ve shot tons of tri-x in rodinal and I have never had this look, shooting 120. Would changing to d76 really have this much of a difference?
>>
>>4404594
ACAB
>All Cats Are Beautiful

10/10 cat
>>
>>4404596
what look are you talking about? you mean how it's all splotchy and grubby looking? Presumably that's from the print aging.
looks like they used some kinda mist filter for it, just smear some vaseline on your lens for that effect.
>>
>>4404603
> just smear some vaseline on your lens for that effect.

Don’t do this
>>
>>4404607
pussy
>>
>>4404603
or simply get rodenstock imagon lens

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>>4404613
so bad lol
>>
>>4403535
took the m6, shoot about 3.5 rolls, i think I got some good ones.
first time shooting porty 400 @ 200, so lets see how that goes.
the photographer they hired was pretty average from what I could see, she didn't really seem to do much, but I guess you get what you pay for and we all start from somewhere.
I think I did them a favor getting in more shots even if they were just as a spectator.
>>
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Why do people hate square format so much? I find it way easier to compose in than your usual horizontal aspect ratios.

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>>4404769
Because it's bland.
Digging that Sellafield tier cover though
>>
>>4404781
>bland
in terms of scene dynamics? or just framing?
>>
>>4404802
Are you really this dim? lol
>>
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>>4403431
anon reporting in again. so after learning how to colour correct my negatives i've come to terms that I need a better scanner or a light table. (scans were only done at 600dpi because i bought my scanner second hand and they gave me the wrong shit to scan negatives)

all in all they look shitty, but special to me in the sense i've learned a lot more about processing and all that jazz :^)

pic rel one of my eery fucked up looking scans of a river shot with yellow mist filter
>>
>>4404922
If you decide for scanner, decide quickly
V850 is out of production
>>
>>4404928
Epson can no longer source the CCD scanning units
>>
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Ok shooters.

Best system camera?
>>
>>4404941
oh fuck off with your shitstirring
>>
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>>4404941
>didn't even include the patrician's choice
this is how i kno ur a faget
>>
>>4404945
Not stirring shit, I'm just interested in what peoples takes are cus I wanna buy one. Just not sure which.
>>
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>>4404949
I love OM cameras, but the reason I didn't include OM1 or its sisters/offspring is because they dont have interchangable viewfinders. I already have an OM2n and I love it. It's a beautiful piece of design with a huge bright viewfinder. It feels so solid in the hand and it and it's lenses are so compact. I also love the place they put the SS dial in. I will probably buy an OM1 when I find one for a good price cus they're pretty abundant
>>
>>4404848
can you take the cock out of your mouth and answer an actual question?
>>
>>4404950
New f-1 and FD L glass. No question.
>>
>>4404950
nigga buy the one in the best condition
they're practically all the same
>>
>>4404941
I like pentax, every lens fits every camera
>>
>>4404950
Literally any SLR in the same level will be the same shit regardless of brand
Get a Minolta X700, Pentax MX, whatever
If you want the best, get a Nikon FM2 or FM3 to have access to good glass and a great body
or FE equivalent if you're a faggot
there's your answer
get a Pentax K1000 if you intend to just shoot casually
>>4404963
>too dumb to get the joke
>too stubborn to quit
lmao
>>
>>4404973
cocksucker
>>
>>4404941
>>
>>4404941
F100 and tamron lenses
>>
>>4404973
>>4404968
>Literally any SLR in the same level will be the same shit regardless of brand
Yeah I know, I more interested in which you guys like moreso than what will yield the best results. Personally I think I take the best pictures with cameras I care the least about, less fear of putting it someone stupid for a moneyshot, you know?
I started out shooting film on an A1 and there was basically nothing I could fault as far as the quality of the photos goes. I just like cameras and I was interested in hearing opinions from people who have used these.

>>4404964
Interesting. You think FD-L primes would have better IQ than the last of Nikons aperture ring lenses like the AF-D's?

>>4404969
I've heard these things are a nightmare to fix, or rather that they're pretty complicated. I usually repair my own cameras if something on them breaks so that might be a turn off for me.
>>
>>4404986
>Interesting. You think FD-L primes would have better IQ than the last of Nikons aperture ring lenses like the AF-D's?
Definitely. Have used both systems. Another option if you do prefer Nikon (or any other system) is getting some of the late model Adaptall Tamron lenses. They have late 90's post 2000's coatings and you can fit them with FD, F, K mount etc adaptors to use on your older manual bodies.
>>
>>4404986
if you can't fix a Pentax K1000 just give up on fixing cameras or just anything in general
>>
scanning color negs is pretty aids honestly
either that or this roll was over-cooked because of fresh chemicals, it's my first roll of color so I don't know

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>>
>>4405024
that was portra 400, this is hp5+ @800 in ilfosol 3 (unadvisable)
I should probably add the film stock to the filename on export

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>>
So upping the development temperature with Foma 400 and XTOL increases grain size noticeably. Kinda works for this photo though.

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>>
File: fomashit.jpg (923 KB, 2500x1047)
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how long does film chickenpox usually take to clear up?

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I was testing a Yashicaflex recently, I took a walk and ended up in a swamp in bumfuck nowhere, It was getting dark and I wanted to make a photo on f/22 so I set up my camera on a tripod and bang
you can't fucking use a normal cable with a yashicaflex, becuase they have some wierd fucking outward threading on a shutter release

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>>
File: skyline.jpg (2.64 MB, 3560x2370)
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>>4404941
>>4404949
>>4404952
I have 2 SRTs (a 200 and a 201) and an OM2n; the OM2n is like a piece of wizardry, it gives perfect exposures night and day and is so compact to boot. the SRTs are like stick shift tractors. They're big, they've seen almost 100 years between them, you have to know how to use them (especially since one of them the meter is crapped out) and they do nothing for you but a bare minimum "yeah if you expose with these settings it probably won't be under exposed at least". but they have a great cheap lens selection (so far zero luck finding any OM lenses that are priced even reasonably beyond the standard 50mm f/1.8) and as long as you learn how to meter you can take some fine pictures
>>
File: _DSC2561-Pano.jpg (3.61 MB, 7000x7000)
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>>4405051
abandoned buildings are cool
thick grain gave nice texture to this image, and it still has ton of detail since it's 4x5

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>>4404986
haven't had a body fail on me yet, analog or otherwise
bought some broken K mount lenses but they all been a breeze to fix, relative to some german or russian lenses I fixed
>>
>>4404952
ive had 2 om-1's, good cameras but now my second one is completely locked up, I can't even open it up
>>
File: Talisman.jpg (1.29 MB, 2010x1137)
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>>4402826 (OP)
Taken in 1999. Life was so simple back then. I'm the dolt in the middle wearing jeans.
>>
>>4405123
> in 1999. Life was so simple back then
If you flew on an airliner for that trip, you would have been able to visit the flight deck as a kiddo. Kids today can't imagine lol
>>
>>4405076
Yeah shooting 4x5 has completely spoiled me. You can have thick grain but the photos still feel sharp and detailed, whereas when I started out shooting HP5 in 35mm and developing in Rodinal, I felt like the grain was overwhelming the image most of the time. These days I shoot almost exclusively on my Graflexes, the big boy in 4x5 and the baby in 6x9, and I have a hard time reaching for the 35mm.
>>
>>4405128
Funny you say that... A few years before this photo, my parents and I flew to Barbados for a vacation on a Lockheed L-1011, and they let me up front to see the cockpit! That was incredible. Even more so because there was actually a flight engineer on the L-1011 with his own station with all the gauges. I'll never forget that.
>>
>>4405129
this is me nowadays. i just splurge on delta 100/400 now bc of the grain
>>
>>4405132
Fp4 is really nice if you want nice tonality and don't mind a little extra grain. It's a good pair to delta imo
>>
>>4402826 (OP)
>hans bellmer
nice (not just saying that as a dollfag)
>>4405072
i like this, the depth of field
>>4405128
i should go find those photos of me in the pilot's seat wearing the captain's hat
really is a different time

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>>4405131
>>4405143
>really is a different time
> they let me up front to see the cockpit! That was incredible. Even more so because there was actually a flight engineer
Yeah I got to see the cockpit of a 737 and it put me on a pathway to a career in aviation that might not have happened otherwise. Kids are fucked over these days sadly
>>
>>4405143
>film dollfag
BASED
>>
>>4405004
>Pentax K1000
Pictured is an LX, not a k1000.
>just give up on fixing cameras or just anything in general
You shouldn't give advice. This is bad. Real bad.
>>
>>4405111
>I can't even open it up
As in the screws are seized on the bottom plate?
>>
File: IMGP3756-1.jpg (1.12 MB, 3438x2507)
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>>4405026
how did you export the film camera name to the EXIF in darktable
>>
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>have really good nikon kit
>now want om kit again
fuck you gearfags
>>
>>4405187
post your photos
>>
File: fomamybeloved.jpg (1.28 MB, 1400x2048)
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>>4405188
your turn anon

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>>4405192
>>4402931 through >>4402947

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>>
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>>4405193
All on 4x5? That's cool, I wanna do LF at some point but havent had the free time to shoot my normal stuff. I feel like I'd be the same way not wanting to shoot smaller formats after seeing that much detail

>picrel lab scanned, isnt the worst thing but would love to see so much detail

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>>4405197
>but havent had the free time to shoot my normal stuff
then you don't need an OM system, you need to use the stuff you have, brotha

and shooting LF is cool as fuck, I'm loving it
but also love 135 and 120, each format has its own pros and cons
>not wanting to shoot smaller formats after seeing that much detail
nah, it's just different
and 135 film already has absurd resolution

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>>4405163
by being very, very autistic
>>
File: fishe.jpg (1.13 MB, 2048x2048)
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>>4405214
>then you dont need OM stuff
Well aware, sometimes the gearfag bug (disguised as the collector bug) hits. I have a 35SP and would go hyper-autistic if I carried an OM1 with it.

I love 120 a lot, need to shoot it more

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>>
File: trix400 3.jpg (2.15 MB, 1511x2288)
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Retard here.

>got gifted some b&w respooled film
>written "Tri-X" on lead
>roll originally held 100 ISO film; written "4" over the "1"
>shot film as 400 ISO
>surprise surprise, all my shit got underexposed
>30 travel photos wasted

Pic was shot under 32C clear sky weather

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>>4405285
>trusting others
>>
>>4405285
Still looks cool.
>>
>>4405285
>shooting travel photos with secondhand expired film
anon...
>>
File: kektar.jpg (1.23 MB, 1365x2048)
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Never liked Ektar much but this roll came out nice

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>>4405361
Scanner vignettes suck

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>>4405285
happened to me too
>>
>>4405362
>>4405361
your editing is heavily green tinted
>>
>>4405285
looks sick
>>
File: kektar3edit.jpg (1.37 MB, 1365x2048)
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>>4405386
thx, dont know how it comes out on different displays. What displays do people usually edit on?

>picrel are lab scans but I have a macbook and my android phone that I sometimes mess w shit on

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>>4405396
not him but the thing that matters most is that your display is calibrated so you have a neutral base to judge colors on
and yeah, your edit is green af
>>
>>4405026
Delta 3200 gives some damn thin negatives

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>>
File: wowee-4.jpg (2.03 MB, 3062x2030)
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im going to populate the last leg of this thread with random photos. cinestill400d

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>>4405640
800t on some crappy p&s. if i had slr it would straighter (heh)

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>>4405641

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>>4405644

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>>4405645

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>>4405646

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>>4405648
i forgot to say the films. b/w is hp5. the other color is gold

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>>4405641
>>4405644
Nice
>>
>>4405644
comfy halations
>>
>>4405640
>cinestill400d
interesting film
i was planning to get one box of 4x5 to try it
>>
>>4405696
but it is too much expensive
138eur 25sheet box
>>
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>>4405641
>>4405644
beautiful
are these camera scans?

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>>4405696
I was tempted, but the problem is it's not real 4x5 film. They just took regular roll film and cut it to 4x5 sizes instead of using a thicker sheet film base. So it's super thin, curly, and scratches if you sneeze at it.
>>
>>4405158
the film door is shut, shutter wont do anything, its just a brick. I haven't tried opening it with a screwdriver, I just got another camera lol
>>
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censored my friend but i had to share this lovely bokeh
first shots with Arista 100 came out well
>>
>>4405751
u gunna show that bokeh and not tell what lens is that?
>>
File: 1-3.jpg (4.45 MB, 4997x5008)
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does anyone that owns an olympus pen f/ft care to share their thoughts?

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>>4405786
yes, i am posting the image solely for the joy it brings and its inherent aesthetic experience
if you're more interested in which manufacturer of glass and aluminum contraptions that merely served the image as nothing more than a vessel for light, then maybe the gear thread would be more in line with your interests
>lol kidding
it's Nikkor W 180mm f/5.6
previous shot was f/8 1/30"
picrel is f/8 1/15"
Arista Edu 100, tray developed in D-76 (1+3, 20ºC for 17min)
>>
File: penft_fuji400.jpg (778 KB, 2022x1368)
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>>4405803
>PEN FT
Great little camera, but I dont the meter. It's technically working but the proprietary number system it operates on isn't an EV value. Id rather just Sunny16/externally meter. If you dont care about the metering and would like a slightly brighter viewfinder go for the Pen F or Pen FV. Pen F has the gothic F and a double stroke with no self timer, FV is cosmetically identical to FT and has single stroke w a self timer. Form factor is very handy and the film comes out reasonably nice for being small. Excuse my dogshit scan, got excited and didnt bother dusting the negs.

>38mm f1.4
>walmart fuji 400

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>>4405024
second roll of color scanned much better, probably because I'm figuring out how to do it properly
I was able to measure Dmax from a highlight in one frame, slap that on all the frames and they actually looked correct (unlike the first roll)
sorry this roll was mostly dolls so I won't post much
>>4405641
>>4405644
did you white balance these after scanning
I ask because the grain looks pretty crunchy for film but I guess all the pics you posted are like that
so what all are you doing to the scans for postprocessing

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>>4405751
>>4405809
shitty attempt i made at merging the images
>>
>>4405809
>Arista Edu 100
*Foma 100
>>
>>4405846
>grain looks pretty crunchy for film
this usually happen when you oversharpen
>>
>>4405751
>woman
>dog
you just know
>>
>>4405892
>LABBED
>>
>>4405816
looks really nice. what lenses are considered the best for it? kind of want some of the telephoto lenses
regarding meter, im going to meter externally as well since i want to shoot ektachrome
>>
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Loading up the film holders for a trip up north this weekend. If I can manage to take a picture of an owl on 4x5 I will be the king of burd snapshitters.
>>
>>4405907
here i am secretly wishing I'd stay in 35mm because medium format is a bit bulkier
i hope i never fall the the large format trap it looks like a major pain in the ass

do you have some massive lens to try and catch that owl?
>>
>>4405907
peak autism
godspeed, anon
what are you bringing along?
>>
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>>4405898
I own these
>40mm f1.4
>38mm f1.8
>100mm f3.5
>150mm f4

I havent used the telephotos at all actually, they came with the bodies I bought. The 38 and 40 are practically the same if Im honest. Was probably gonna sell the tele's because I never use any lengths beyond 50 these days.
>picrel
Used the 38, left side was at 1.8, right side was either 5.6 or 8. Left side was a double exposure. Shot half the roll in my F3 then reloaded in the pen.

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>>4405912
>>4405913
I'll be bringing both of my Graflexes, the 4x5 and the medium format Crowns. 135mm and 210mm lenses for the 4x5. I'm also going to bring my Minolta X-700 and Sigma 400mm lens with Tri-X pushed to 1600. Maybe some Delta 3200 or P3200 if I have a chance to grab some on the way up. And then the Panasonic G9 with Leica 100-400mm telezoom for actual serious burd shooting.

Frankly I don't actually expect to be able to shoot an owl on 4x5. I would have to use the 135mm lens because that's what the rangefinder on the Graflex is synched to, and there's no way in hell I would be able to focus with the ground glass and then close the lens and load the camera before the bird flies away. Best case scenario, I catch a Great Gray hunting from a fence post near the road in bright enough light to shoot sunny 16 and focus with the rangefinder, then crop HEAVILY. Great Grays are big, lazy motherfuckers, they're about 2-3 feet tall and they like to sit still on a post and wait until they hear a mouse under the snow. So if I have the camera cocked and locked, and all the stars align, there's a chance. Zero chance of getting a small, fast one like a Boreal Owl or Northern Hawk Owl, gonna have to stick to the digital or the 35mm for those.
>>
>>4405920
hope you catch one of those lazy fucks in 4x5
is it possible to get somewhat close to them or do they fly away?
Also how much weight are you bringing, camera and non-camera?
and how are you carrying all this stuff?
>>
>>4405907
>panasoy to scan 4x5
absolutely based
>>
>>4405928
It's possible to get close, but it stresses the owls out and can flush them, which is bad since the only reason they're this far south this year in the first place is because they're already starving. Even if I didn't care about the welfare of the birds, which I do, the area is overrun with hippie, karen, and redditor photogs who would get super pissed if I tried to sneak up on an owl just take a picture with a press camera for the sake of flexing on a Ghanaian cheese sculpting forum. I don't feel like having my face plastered over a bunch of wine mom Facebook groups and getting harassed by hippies. So I'm not going to go out of my way to get the shot, I'm bringing the 4x5 to shoot landscapes, I'll only try for an owl if I get lucky and one lands close enough to my truck that I can get it without disturbing the bird.

I've got a big stupid backpack that I use for hauling my large format gear around if I need to get off the beaten path, I'd guess with everything including tripod probably about 40ish lbs. But the area I'm going has a ton of vehicle trails, I'll be primarily operating out of my truck.

>>4405933
The Trannysoynic is actually pretty ideal for this application. It has an 8-shot pixel shift high res mode, and when you're blasting light up through the film and taking multiple shots to stitch together later, the downsides of the MFT sensor really don't matter. Plus it's pretty good for shooting birds too since you get that effective 2x boost from the crop factor. And since the only thing I would ever shoot on digital over film is birds, it's a good option for me.
>>
>>4405952
ah cool, and good that you respect the birbs and shit
I was asking about getting close because 210mm in 4x5 is like 70mm in 135 format, which is not a lot for reaching far away subjects, but as you said you can crop it a shitload and still have a good image
40lbs is a lot, but if you're doing stuff from the truck it'll be doable
>>
>>4405961
Yeah, but even relying on being able to crop the reach is still pretty minimal. Like I said, I'd have to get real lucky and have one land very close. It's happened though, I've seen multiple pictures of them landing on photographers heads in this area this year. They are coming down from the Arctic and the Boreal forests in Canada because the vole population up there has cratered, and so the vast majority of these birds have never seen a human or a vehicle before and don't know to be afraid, unless you try to sneak up on one in which case they recognize predator stalking behavior when they see it even if they're unfamiliar with the critter doing it.
>>
>>4405966
Nikon makes a nice and somewhat affordable 360-500-720mm convertible lens. Very heavy lens, but it's pretty nice.
>>
>>4405975
That's definitely something I'll have to keep an eye out for. Would probably only be able to use them with the monorail though, I don't think the Graflex has enough bellows length for even the 360. But I have humped that monorail out into the bush before I had the Graflex, so that's not the end of the world.
>>
>>4405986
Pretty sure they're tele designs, but most field/press cameras will not have enough bellows for the 720mm.

Fujinon makes an apparently great and compact-ish 300mm f5.6 that may work with the press cameras if you wanted a longer lens.
>>
guyz i'm anxious
a friend of mine is bringing me the lens I ordered from Japan because they wouldn't ship it to me
it has already arrived, everything is fine etc. i'm just anxious to get it and shoot with it but my friend only arrives next friday
it's a nikkor sw 90mm f/4.5
i'll also have to swap the lensboard when i get it
>>
>>4405907
nice calipers
>>
>>4406020
Every man should own a good set of calipers.
>>
>>4406025
How many don't? How the fuck else do you measure your scrotum?
>>
Thoughts on Harman Red?
Are they just finding a creative way of getting rid of Phoenix stock?
>>
>>4406071
I've only ever measured the tensile strength of my scroat, but you do that with weasels
>>
>>4406096
I fucking LOVE science
>>
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Didnt enjoy much of the roll of Arista I got back but this one's alright minus the staining

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>>4406108
Nah, that one's shit too.
>>
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>>4406121
he ain't lyin

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so the mandala effect happened. my brother gave me a bunch of rolls of film in like 2020 or 2021 I never shot. they have been in my fringe and I moved them too my freezer recently. I thought I had ektar but when I went to check it turned out to be ektachrome. no idea how I would confuse the 2 as the boxes look nothing alike, but this is mega based since ektar looks like shit for portraits.
oh and a question. so I have a bunch of film that has been in the fringe. I assume any of the negative film that is more than 2 years expired I should shoot at + 0.5-2/3rds of a stop. but I also have 1 roll of ektachrome from 2022 and 4 rolls of 120 lomo slide 200 which is apparently airplane film made by that company that they blamed for making the fictional holocaust gas that didn't exist that expired in 2018. I figure I'll shoot the ektachrome at box speed and bracket it with +/- 0.5 stops since that camera has a built in bracket anyway. for the lomo 200 how should I bracket? I figured box speed + 0.5 stops and + 1 stop?
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>>4405803
is that the tunnel in ohare?

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>>4406154
I didn't understand shit from your schizzoposting, but just shoot Ektachrome as normal
2 years ain't shit, and pushing slide film is generally a shit idea
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>>4406157
>I didn't understand shit from your schizzoposting
not my fault you are ESL, can't read, and are gay and retarded
>>
>>4406159
>I can read and write fluently in English, as well as in 3 other languages
>I'm able to nail exposure every time with slide film
>somehow I'm the one who's gay and retarded
you can't even write fridge right, fuck off lmao

>but I also have 1 roll of ektachrome from 2022 and 4 rolls of 120 lomo slide 200 which is apparently airplane film made by that company that they blamed for making the fictional holocaust gas that didn't exist that expired in 2018
and I'm supposed to understand what this shit means

>airplane film
like the one with Leslie Nielsen?
it's aerial photography film, moron

>fictional holocaust gas bla bla
Zyklon-B was produced by IG Farben, which owned AGFA
whenever you're seeking help, the best way to get it is to be as obscure as possible, requiring retarded conspiracy theory knowledge to be understood
>>
>>4406161
>reddit spacing
>admitting to being ESL
>being gay and retarded
cool story, you can't read and are gay
>>
>>4406165
>t. monolingual conspiracionist who can neither shoot slide nor google simple shit
kek
how does it feel having an ESL be better at your own mother language than you?
>>
>>4406166
>he thinks textbooks define languages
Humanity has never worked like this. There are records of roman scholars complaining about people speaking quote incorrectly endquote. I aint not gonna stop being "wrong" because someone overanalyzed an already irrational mess made up of 6 different languages and tried to arbitrarily claim which stuff was more proper like because it was an older revision or characteristic of people he admired more and stuff like that shit and like whatever.
>>
>>4406166
>still seething
anyone who speaks more than one language is a gay retard with an inferiority complex. not my fault you can't read, on account of you being a gay retard
>>
>>4406167
>>4406169
>"hurr you ESL can't speak english"
>gets called out for being pathetic in own language after trying to flex to someone who speaks 4
>suddenly knowing a language doesn't matter anymore
LMAO KEK
seethe harder
>>
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>>4402826 (OP)
Alright guys, it's V-Day. Let's try to get along. Make fun of my composition all you like here. Just picked up a used Rebel T7 in excellent condition for a very good price. This was the first shot I took with it. I can just see Timmy smiling in his Pantera right now.

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>>4406174
Sir, this is film general.
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>>4406276
My mistake. Sorry about that.
>>
>>4404507
Isn't that Isabella Rossellini?
>>
>>4404928
That's a shame. I was going to splurge on the V850 a couple years ago, but ended up getting the V600 instead.
>>
>>4405150
Sorry for the late reply. That is great that you pursued a career in aviation! Yes, these kids these days definitely did get screwed over.
>>
>>4406342
the v600 is also out of production now
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>>4406172
that isn't what we were saying at all, you gay retard
knowing more than one language means you are a bitch being esl means you are a bitch. you are such a bitch you need to learn my language, but I didn't even need to bother learning yours.
>>
>>4406573
Did you have a lonely valentines day, bud? Anything you want to talk about?
>>
>>4406573
>Zach tier post

ISHYGDDT
>>
>>4406575
who?
>>4406574
you know today is the 15th, retard?
>>
>>4406576
Hey, if you had a rough day yesterday that's okay. We can talk about. We are all friends here. No need to lash out.
>>
>>4406581
you are clearly projecting. did you just develop some slide film or something, fagola?
>>
>>4406348
Haha all good anon. Yeah I feel sorry for them, a little magic is good as a kiddo.
>>
>>4406584
I had a really nice dinner with my gf last night and even more fun when we got back home. You just sound so very angry and I wanted to let you know everything's going to be okay. No need to lash out. You're only hurting yourself, friend.
>>
>>4406591
nah, sounds like you are projecting, fagolio. did your girlfriend (male) say something mean to you?
>>
>>4406596
Awwwww. You were lonely last night. Sorry bud! Maybe next year.
>>
>>4406597
again, projecting. maybe this is why you seethe so hard about being ESL and gay
>>
>>4406602
Hey, you're still really angry. Bummer!

How about this. You post a photo and I'll say something nice about it. I bet that will cheer you right up! :) This offer is for anyone that may need some positivity!
>>
>>4406584
>imagine fighting other anons thinking they're me and seething this hard
did an immigrant fuck your mom or something? lmao
>>
>>4406605
>Reddit spacing
>projecting
>>4406607
all nonAmericans are literally the same, esl boi
>>
can someone explain to me clearly how to apply the zone system?
I've read about it, glanced this part in Adam's books, but I always think there's something I'm missing
>>
>>4406622
Exposure/development/the zone system are how you control the contrast of your image. The distance between the darkest and brightest points on your shot.

Using the zone system allows you take a scene that is either overly contrasty or too low in contrast and utilize the entire dynamic range of the film. Expose for shadows, develop for highlights.
When applied properly you can produce beautiful prints with intent on graded paper with minimal fuss.

If you're scanning you don't really need to worry about it, and it isn't very useful if you're shooting roll film because you can't apply push/pull development to individual images.
>>
>>4406627
>Expose for shadows, develop for highlights.
yeah I've seen it plastered everywhere but what the fuck does that mean in reality?
from what I understood from reading the book it's like
>you measure your brightest and darkest points in the scene
example: the blackest parts in my photo read like zone 3, brightest is zone 8
now what do I do with that?
p.s.: yeah, talking about large format and wetprinting
>>
>>4406629
What made the zone system click for me is thinking of exposure and development as a way to control contrast. When you produce a negative that you intend to print you may want to either compress/pull, or expand/push the total contrast range of your image, so that your contrast has a total range from 4-6 stops in total, which is the best range for good wet printing.
When you are metering your scene you look at the darkest spot and the brightest spot you intend to retain information in.
Let's say that the difference in exposure between the brightest and darkest is 8 stops. In this case the contrast range of your final will be too high, so you can utilize pull processing and it will compress that contrast range by reducing the overall density of your negative. You reduce your iso by 2 stops and then you pull the film 2 stops by reducing the total development time. In a perfect world this will produce a negative that has a 6 stop contrast range that will be ideal for printing.
>>
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Lab dev, home scanned. Pretty happy :)

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>>4406635

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>>4406629
Also an aside to consider is that some developers and films and film+dev combos are significantly better at successfully push/pull processing than other. Do your research. Also try a pyro based developer if you're making prints they're pretty awesome.
>>
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Trying to find reliable sources for global interest in film photography over time. Everyone says 'film is making a comeback' and the data sooort of shows that. At least this single source does. A 10% gain from the all-time low 10 years ago isn't nothing, but it could probably just be explained by more people using google now compared to 10 years ago. I don't think google trends factors in the total amount of google users when making their graphs. I think its just a % of whatever the highest total on record is. If anyone has any ideas for this let me know. Going to try checking ebay sale price history of popular film camera models.
>>
>>4406634
>>4406639
thanks for the info, but can you explain it again with an example or something?
if I have like 8 stops across the photo I need to "get it down" to 6
Or if I have 4 stops I can "stretch it" to 6
But how do I do that then?
what do I measure for? how does the iso reading is supposed to change?
in practical terms
I just can't wrap my head around it
>>
>>4406703
I've read a bit more but I'm unsure about it
but in sum, what I gathered is
>you meter your scene as normal as a base
>meter for what you would want to fall into Zone III (textured shadows)
>see if what you want to be your detailed highlights is 4 stops above to be in Zone VII
>measure for said highlight
>if it matches then fine
>if it does not match, compensate in development in the following manner
>if said highlight reads for example as zone IX instead of VII you gotta "bring it down" to VII by pulling 2 stops
>if your intended zone VII reads as VI, for example, push 1 stop in development
is that it?
am i being retarded or something?
>>
>>4406730
Yeah that's basically it, but you need to change the exposure as well. Pulling film means increasing exposure and decreasing development time. Pushing means reducing exposure and increasing development.

If you just did a pull development on normally exposed film it would simply be under developed.

The end goal is being able to envision and make a good print. The exposure and development are intermediary steps to producing a good print. The zone system is a method of controlling contrast in film to be able to produce a good print.

Simply using the zone system to spot meter your shadows properly is not really the zone system.
>>
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how is the middest 35mm color film the bussinest 120?
>>4406696
kodak is a public company and is required to publish their earnings, which they break down by category. Be sure to adjust for inflation
"film is making a comeback" is mostly cope but there has been a bit of an uptick the last few years

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did a test roll with the zeiss ikoflex from the thrift store
i broke a spring in the shutter while putting it back together after cleaning it so only 1/100 and B speeds work.
pretty clunky to use, but i just put it on f16 and shot in daylight.
>>
>>4406732
i'm having no problem with the theory, but i'm a bit lost in the practical sense
I'll give two scenarios I've had shooting today
>metering for the shadows
i've metered the darkest part of the image to have decent shadow detail aka zone III and it was EV 10
>iso 100 sheets
>f/22
>1/2"
the brightest areas were EV17
Bright fucking evening sun at an angle, basically no shadows, very bright but uncontrasty scene
I want these brightest areas to be at my Zone VII in development, right?
But it's only a 2 stops difference, and I need a 4 stops difference between zones III and VII
So I'm 2 stops short
Am I thinking this right?
And now how do I develop it?
Like, talk me through this thing
will I end up trying to overdevelop the highlights, so more time in the developer tray?
Like
I go on massive dev chart and check how to develop Arista 100 pushed to 400? or do I check the times for it pulled to iso 25?
when I get home I can try this out
>>
>>4406882
other scenario was EV 7 and EV 10
So 3 stops difference
f/22 for 4" (metered for the shadows)
Do i push or pull 1 stop?
Am i thinking this right?
>>
>>4406882
holy fucking shit, TYPO*
Zone III was EV 15*
>>
>>4406882
For your first example you would pull 2 stops. That means you shoot your film at iso 25 and then you do a -2 development time, which will be X seconds less than normal development depending on your developer. The increased exposure and shorter development means your shadows and highlights will develop closer together.

In your second example you would shoot your film at 200 iso and use a +1 development time. This will increase the distance between the development of the highlights and shadows producing a denser negative(greater contrast)
>>
>>4406885
so I develop it as I would with a film pulled to 25 in development
Got it
Is there any calculation For the time or do every film has their own info on the datasheet?
What whould I look for?
Thanks for the help, this responde was clearer than what I've found in like 6 different sources because no one explains it directly with a clear practical example
>>
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>>4406824
It's not looking fantastic.
>>
>>4406890
You look on the developer datasheet. It will recommend push/pull times. To properly compress or expand contrast it is a combination of modified exposure and development time. You have to use the combo.

Yeah it's a little confusing until you see that the zone system is used to control contrast and produce a negative that prints well.
>>
>>4406891
that's total revenue, not just film.
"film and chemicals" q1-q3 2024 is 179 million vs 166 million (170 adjusted for inflation) for the same period 2023. q4 is not available yet.
but yeah, 5% is not a very impressive comeback and the people saying there is are probably just trying to meme it into existence.
still it's better than a decline and it has been relatively stable for quite a few years. the key is to reduce expenses to match the much lower volume that is now the norm, which Kodak and Ilford both seem to have done.
>>
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>>4406892
So now I develop those 1st scenario shots for 7 minutes in D-76 at 20°C
is that right?
and for the second scenario I need to develop it for -1 stop to compensate (delta EV = 3)
so
and about agitation
I have 3 shots to be developed like this, so I'll just calmly (and continuously) shuffle them for whole 7 min
The other one with a 3 stops difference can be developed (second scenario)
So I'll develop it for about 13 min
Correct?
>>
>>4406898
Lets hope super lucky america fun time 100% 4 billion ISO chinesium film will save us
>>
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hey bros ive recently been eyeing some MF cameras. i remember an anon saying MF is pointless and to just get LF though. how right is he? my dev tank fits 120 already so i woudlnt need anything there, but obv with MF i would need new stuff. also LF is really expensive compared to MF but its film so cost effectivity has never been much of a concern.
or should i just get a better lens for my current 35mm? would probably be the cheapest option but i want muh bellows. also id need a light box and dslr scanning setup since my scanner is only for 35mm ;(
>pic unrelated
>>
>>4406899
I may not be understanding this graph I just had a crash course on, but I'm not entirely sure it is useful for determining push/pull times. From what I've gathered you want a gamma of around. .6-.9.

I don't know or see how the graph relates gamma/contrast index directly to total stops of contrast.

Sorry lol.
>>
>>4406903
Do you feel like you would still use a camera that has to be on a tripod? Are you okay with carrying around like 20-30lbs of gear for image quality? If not your probably won't enjoy LF that much.

A 6x7 camera may be a better intermediary camera to see if you enjoy the added resolution. They're usually bulkier than a 35mm camera so you will see if you mind the added weight/bulk as well.
>>
>>4406903
120 is great because it's basically the same as 35mm except bigger. Even the cameras are basically the same as 35mm except scaled up. Meanwhile LF is a whole different system where you need special processing equipment, film holders and other accessories, and everything is old, kind of jenky and a pain in the ass.
>>
Why does kodak film scan like absolute ass? I bought some fuji 100 (the overpriced JDM shit) and have shot 5 rolls so far and every single photo looks reasonable after scanning, even ones that are completely fucked exposure wise are usable.

Yet if I shoot the same scene on say ektar or gold unless the exposure and quality of light (has to be daylight or 100% flash contribution indoors) is absolutely perfect all of the colors are fucked, with heavy magenta/blue casts to the point where it takes an hour to correct out.

I don't have the same problem or at least it's no where near as extreme on 120, the only thing I can think of is the saturation of the base seems to be less on 120?
>>
so is there anyone more knowledgeable in the Zone System who could give a little help?
>>4406899
>>
>>4406929
i haven't gotten to scanning any of my ektar or gold yet but haven't had any trouble like that with my portra
what is your process for scanning & reversing?
>>
>>4406944
100mm macro lens and a holder with a video light under it. Using NLP to do the conversion, I've tried other tools, grain2pixel works great color wise but it takes like an hour to process a 36 exposure roll lmao
>>
>>4406957
I mean that all sounds pretty normal so idk
mind sharing one of the negatives you had trouble with?
>>
>>4406903
>>4406827
>>4406824
>>4406637
>>4406635
Nice shots.
>>
Do you shoot the cinestill films at box speed or at the vision 3 speeds? like 400d and 800t or 250 and 500?
>>
File: 2025-02-15-R1B-1138m.jpg (1.58 MB, 2000x3000)
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>>4406963
here ya go. this one looks like it was shot with tungsten film while orbiting a white dwarf

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>>
>>4406973
Wtf?
>>
>>4406974
Thanks
>>
>>4406973
so I think part of the problem might be you're scanning with too strong a backlight, assuming the tiny bit of the edge I have selected here is unexposed film (100% mask)
>>
>>4406973
>>4406979
compare it to this, what 100% mask on portra 400 looks like off my scanner
>>
>>4406973
>>4406979
>>4406981
scratch that, 100% this film was improperly developed
probably temperatures too cold, the chemicals didn't penetrate properly
blue sensitive layer is on top, green below that, red on the bottom, compare that to the RGB values
>>
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>>4406986
interesting, this is the last shot on the roll (invert to reveal my setup) and it converts without any issue, most of them do. the fucked up one is at the start so would be closest to the middle of the tank.

do you think not bothering to preheat the tank has anything to do with it?

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>>
>>4407005
>converts without any issue
I mean it still looks pretty fucked on my end, mostly blue like >>4406979
here I only selected mask color & applied negative inversion
>>
>>4407005
>>4407015
… and here it is after I crunched the channels to get the RGB parade to line up
so, not all red information is lost, it's just very weak
it could be due to a bad backlight, but I'd think that would be more noticeable?
also position on roll shouldn't change much in how it gets developed, assuming you're using inversion processing, it's pretty turbulent
>>
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>>4407016
here's how NLP handles it from the raw, maybe the jpg is just fucked.

I think you're onto something with the light, it's just a cheap video light set to 5600K.

>assuming you're using inversion processing
I uhh, pour in the developer, then spin the film reel around CW and CCW for the almost the entire 3:15.

The kodak z131 document says that time includes 10 seconds to drain and dump in the bleach, so I drain at 3:05, afaik the temp is 38 C, used a couple of thermometers and they all say the same thing although aparently it's supposed to be 37.8 C for this developer but like you say not sure how that would change shit frame to frame lmao.

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>>
>>4407018
>maybe the jpg is just fucked
maybe yeah, the negative pics you posted look like they have a crosstalk tonemapping operation applied to them which is (very basically) a digital film emulation thing
generally that makes brighter areas tend towards white, but obviously that will fuck up the RGB balance of the mask for color negatives
reminder that negatives are data, not photos
>spin the film reel around
ok not inversion (ie flip tank 4x every 30s deal) but I do know reel spinning is a valid process, just don't have any experience with it myself
so probably not that
so basically, everything sounds fine with your development, the jpegs you posted probably aren't representative of your actual scans, your backlight worked for other rolls, so shrugs from me
>>
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Anyone know about cracking Negative Lab Pro? I found a github repo thats supposed to do it but I haven't tried it cus I have no clue if it's safe or not. https://github.com/chanyan999/NegativeLabPro-lrplugin-hotfix

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>>
>>4407016
>>4407015
>>4406986
>>4406979
In my experience negadoctor is pretty shit.
>>
>>4407024
Thanks for trying to help anyway fren. I'm putting it down to fucking cosmic rays or some shit, given that it goes hand in hand with bad exposure/shit photos.
>>
>>4406975
Your welcome.
>>
>>4407005
>do you think not bothering to preheat the tank has anything to do with it?
as in you just dumped room temperature chemicals in and hoped they'd warm up on the way?
yeah that would do it
>>
File: phoenix_mask.jpg (2.51 MB, 2856x2099)
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I wasn't real happy with my phoenix scans so now I tried sticking some blank film behind it to make it less blue and it really did help. I figured the scanning issues were mainly software but I couldn't fix it even in the DNG. I think the blue backlight on the scanner combined with the blue base of the film just doesn't leave enough dynamic range in the red channel of the sensor to capture an accurate scan.
>>
>>4407039
okay then explain why it did a better job than every post you linked to
>>4407044
I assume you disabled auto white balance when scanning, right?
>>4407084
you're retarded
>>
>>4407086
>okay then explain why it did a better job than every post you linked to
The posts I linked to are negadoctors
>>
>>4407086
camera white balance doesn't matter when shooting raw, which obviously you should be for digitizing negatives
what does matter is that you avoid clipping any channels. for that you check the raw histogram, not the parade after conversion nor the camera histogram. if the raw red channel is clipped reduce the exposure and try again.
>>
>>4407087
brain inserted NLP there because that's what we were talking about originally
and negadoctor does fine if you can get a decent base sample to work with
personally I scan a section of leader for each roll and use that to profile the rest
>>
>>4407091
well obviously but anon didn't share any raws
>>
>>4407092
>negadoctor does fine if you can get a decent base sample
Yeah, keyword being 'fine'. NLP is a lot better, colours are way more accurate. Now idea how Nate does it. It's also way faster, you have to fuck around with your shadow casts and shit for ages with negadoctor only to end up with worse results.
>>
>>4407095
>colours are way more accurate
define accurate
>you have to fuck around with your shadow casts and shit for ages
you're using it wrong
>>
>>4407096
>define accurate
When someone says accurate colours they mean the colours look like how they do in real life. hope this helps
>>
>i'm begging you, /p/
>i just need a little help understanding the zone system
>help plz
>>4406899
>>4406938
>>
>>4407109
>I get it, /p/
>I've read the whole 50 pages section on the Zone System in "The Negative" and now I get it
bad news is I misunderstood the measuring part of the zone system when shooting
good news is it's all very salvageable because despite that I had the common sense to not underexpose
and (I think) I figured out how to best develop each sheet, so it'll end up being a nice (and risky) challenge as well
now I'm crossing fingers to get everything right
>>
>>4407109
I'm sorry anon, if you don't get it already you're clearly not autistic enough to pull it off.
You'll have to f8 and be there like the rest of us.
>>
>>4407281
see >>4407275
>checkmate
>>
>>4407275
In all honesty you should just experiment and do test shots to figure out what works best for your setup now that you understand the concept. They say 30% less dev time per stop of pull, but maybe it's actually 26% based on your film and agitation, etc.

You could also forget all the zone system stuff and just go straight into studying sensitometry/densitometry, which is the science behind why the zone system works.
>>
>>4407453
sure, I'll make some tests as soon as I can
>just go straight into studying sensitometry/densitometry
absolutely not lol
I find it extremely hard to believe there'd be any improvement in my photography in doing so
>>
>>4407461
That charecteristic curve graph you posted and understanding how to use it is literally sensitometry.
>>
>>4407509
>i started understanding this shit and now can't stop
he covers a bit of sensitometry in the chapter but i wouldn't say I'm knowledgeable in this topic
Surface level info given in the book is enough for grasping how densitometry works and how it relates to the zone system
Now I'm just trying to find the infos on how to push and pull Foma 100
There are infos for iso 200 and 400, but not for 50 or 25
Should I just divide/multiply the base time by X√2 (X = stops)?
>>
I bought a Minolta XD11, thoughts?
>>
>>4407687
Pretty GWAC-core, but I won't be able to get mad at you and your pictures until I see them.
>>
>>4407768
The fuck does this nigglish mean?
>>
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>>4407821
it's doghair anon having a board wide meltdown because someone said his dog pictures are meaningless or something, just ignore him
>>
>have dirty ass place
>scans not even half as gross as dog-hair anon's scans
It's like he's doing it on purpose.
>>
File: frozen_creek.jpg (765 KB, 1333x2000)
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gw690 made it through two rolls without jamming up so I'm happy
I took it apart and fucked with the workings the other day but I don't know what I fixed if anything
also kept it in an insulated bag except to take pictures this time so maybe that did it

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For some reason all my film is foma-level curly these days which makes scanning a real pain. Maybe it's the low humidity.
Thanks for reading my blog, please like and subscribe.

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>>
>>4407829
It stands for guy with a camera. I'm just giving you shit for being a nophoto gearfag. There's obsessed schizos that will stalk you across boards for even making a racist joke just fyi. Careful.

>>4407825
I know you werent paying attention to any of the fun I was having over the past couple of days, but I'm just having my rounds proving a point.

Now post something meaningful for gods sake.
>>
>>4407826
I print my film in a darkroom and I clean it before printing. That's why I shoot film. Why would I give a shit about scans? Scans are low quality shitposts compared to wet printing your film.

Huskyfag had the same hair problems from day one of owning a flatbed scanner also lol. The film holders are dust magnets if you knew literally anything...
>>
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>>4407859
>I'm just having my rounds proving a point.
that youre an obnoxious faggot? yeah we knew
>Now post something meaningful for gods sake
i did. you don't expect me to spoonfeed you the meaning do you? stare harder

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>>
>>4407868
Relax Lil' bug. This does not concern you. Ironically, You seem to want to be spoonfed as well, which is funny.
>>
>>4407868
it's a selfportrait
a reference to Moriyama's I suppose
beautiful metaphor, anon
>the photographer sees himself in the petite firefly
>all six of its feet fragilely holding on to the vigorous growing stem
>upon closer inspection we see it's not holding its own weight, though
>all six feet are tightly holding that stem
>facing it directly
>ready to gobble down the massive cock it represents for anon
>>
>>4407860
You sound like you wear a beanie and a flannel shirt.
>>
>>4407929
>noooooo not the heckin physical prints in muh digital age!

You sound like a really lame guy. Why are you even here?
>>
>>4407933
to dab on dog hair anon of course
prints are cool but I care about the process of shooting the most
>>
>>4407942
Cool self own, bud.
>>
>>4407842
>>4407844
>uses color film
>takes b&w photo
>>4407875
>all six of its feet
might want to count again
>>
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>>4408071
>pic related
>>
>filmholder is not able to completely flatten curly negatives
>borders are a bit out of focus even when macro lens is set at f11
I was not cut out for this.
>>
>>4408075
Get one of the contax cameras thst has a vacuum back. :o There are 35mm and the contax 645 has a vac back.

Mamiya and rollei also sell a 70mm film holder with vacuum back.
>>
>>4408097
It'd have to be transparent to be used for scanning
Anybody made their own ANR glass before? I got some armor etch and window glass but I don't know if that'll be too coarse of texture
film holders are such a pain in the ass
>>
>>4408113
Oooo for scanning my bad. They sell and glass sheets. Kind of expensive from b&h. Alibaba has them for pretty cheap.
>>
>>4408072
ooooh I bet you felt real smart googling that
insects missing 1-3 legs are very common (anyone who went outside as a kid knows this)
>>
>>4408113
Even the finest ANR glass will slightly ruin the resolution. Use ANR glass or acryl behind film and anti reflective museum glass in front. There is very low chance that you will get newton rings on emulsion side
>>
>>4408250
Should he be using high precision/clarity optical glass for the top?
>>
>>4408251
https://www.bramptonframing.com/diy-framing/accessories/glass/tru-vue-clear-museum-glass
>>
>>4408253
Psssh. Do you even scan film.

https://www.edmundoptics.com/f/lambda4-n-bk7-precision-windows/12267/
>>
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I want to report that I finally used RGB light for scanning first time as a test
and hooo boy
it's so much better
white-light completely rapes negative colors, negative lab pro tries do do some unfucking but it doesn't matter since a shit of color information is already lost
with RGB backlight you don't need fucking negative lab pro, you just inverse the curves, set white and black points and adjust maybe color temp and the scan looks great you CAN'T do that with a uniform white light
I used this: https://github.com/jackw01/scanlight
picrel quick shitty comparison - left NLP white light, right negative inverted by hand, scanned on RGB light
I will post better scans tomorrow
>>
>>4408335
you can use a white light but it needs to be one with a high CRI, look for that term next time you buy one scanning
>and the scan looks great
sure they might but they'll also be wrong
give this a read https://www.kodak.com/content/products-brochures/Film/Exploring-the-Color-Image.pdf
(or don't, they're your scans so whatever makes you happy)
>>
>>4408344
CRI is irrelevant if not harmful for digitizing negatives, quit repeating that bullshit. Negatives do not transmit a continuous spectrum of frequencies, they contain 3 or 4 dyes in varying quantities. In addition, the sensor does not capture a continuous spectrum, it captures three channels which each have a particular response.

To get the best scan you want to maximize the intersection of the dye colors with the sensor responses, and minimize the intersection between channels. The ideal light source produces something like 3 sharp spikes centered at the peak of the three dye colors. A high CRI light source will give worse results as it will muddle the channels.
>>
>>4408357
did you see the light source anon had been using?
I only recommended a high-CRI light because it would be a huge improvement over what he had been using
>>
>>4408361
no, what was it?
That github project looks pretty cool. By combining 3 separate exposures you can also eliminate the camera's sensor response too, so it's even better than a single 3 spikes light.
>>
>>4408368
the whole conversation starting from here >>4406973
and sorry I didn't pay much attention to the github project, my dedicated film scanner already does that but it does look super useful for people who want to DIY instead of paying thousands for hardware that hasn't been supported in 15 years
>>
>>4408368
>>4408390
never mind finished reading the README, the dev is only like 50% correct about how color negatives work
the mask isn't garbage color info that needs to be discarded by narrow-band sampling, it's there to compensate for imperfect dye chemistry and is designed to work with color filters used for color photo printing
you can't just invert + color balance, you need to divide by the mask color (iirc)
more info in the Kodak pdf I linked above
>>
>>4408393
>you can't just invert + color balance
and yet you can
I done it many times and it works great.
you can't really ignore the orange mask anyway, whether you sample a wide or narrow band it will include whatever contribution the orange mask makes
>>
>>4408394
sure, you can do anything you want
just assuming you want accurate colors as designed by the film manufacturer, you need to treat the mask correctly, as described by Kodak in their literature
you'll get close, but only by compromising on the color balance between areas you shouldn't have to if you inverted "correctly"
>>
>>4408396
If you actually want colors to be as accurate as possible you shoot a dozen rolls of test charts and use those to generate a 3d LUT. That will give optimal mapping to the extent possible. Any particular formula you come up with is only an approximation.
Or you just do what looks good and leave the pixel peeping to the digitards.
Also keep in mind that subtraction in log space is equivalent to division in linear space, which I think means your "divide by the color mask" is not much different from "set the black point" in most cases.
>>
>>4408398
I mean at this point you're arguing with Kodak not me man
trusting them works for me
>>
>>4408398
>>4408405
but you are probably right about the linear vs log space
I typically think linear space when color processing (for work) so that's how I think about editing too
>>
NEW THREAD
>>4408421 →
>>4408421 →
>>4408421 →
>>4408421 →
>>4408421 →
>>
>>4408335
left: Kodak colors
right: Fuji colors
>>
>>4408423
Tha know you.



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