Can we get more naked prints in this thread please as there was fuck all pics to choose from for the OP image.

>>93285990
>>93288280'

Just checked the trash and the screen protector apparently peeled off with the top film when I installed it so re leveled and still no print. Any ideas? It’s 40-45 degrees C in my garage if that would matter

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>>93286656
Thank you anon, this next one went way better after soaking it in hot water after the wash but before the cure. Next I'll try to learn how to design the supports better so they don't mess up the details too much!

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I want to get a TON of quick-and-dirty corpses to use for scatter and to decorate larger pieces. Would this idea work?
>Find a naked dead guy STL (easy)
>Put him inside blender default cube
>Apply boolean transform to make a dead-guy-shaped hole in the center of default cube
>Slice default cube down the middle
>Print both halves of the cube in resin
>Crudely "mold" the guy 100 times with hot glue
This seems like it would work on paper, but I reckon at least one of you must have done it IRL. Would I need a release agent for the hot glue vs resin? Am I missing some obvious but critical thing?

>>93292802
> Am I missing some obvious but critical thing?

That it would look terrible

>>93292802
Press molds. Faster, cheaper, easier.
And why not just print the casualty figures? Seems faster and easier.

>>93292802
If the guy is dead on the ground, you don't need two halves, since one is going to be flat anyway. Just make a single-side mold (sort of a cookie-cutter, I would say make a roller but I have no idea how to wrap a thing around another thing before boolean) and press it on a soft-enough material (I'm sure that something of the sort exists in hardware stores as some sort of cheap filler)

Does anyone have Wild Hunt 1 from Mammoth Factory? Ive been looking in the telegram groups and russ trackers but can only find the second pack

>>93293704
>>93294063
I guess you're right that I could get away with one half... the reason I got on this idea is that I've seen other people using miniatures cast out of hot glue, and what they lack in detail I was assured they make up for in cost. Resin printing every casualty would be comparatively much more expensive, and take ages with the size of my print bed, removing supports, and of course the possibility of failed prints. Another benefit of hot glue would be that it "flexes" such that I could drape the corpses over terrain or realistically dangle them, which stiff resin can't do, and finally that the soft material would be relatively invincible during play while resin is more liable to chip.
Based on what you've said though my initial idea was clearly not smart. I'll be printing "master" corpses in resin and casting them in thermoplastic instead, maybe.

>>93295462
I assume you don't have a FDM printer. Otherwise you just load the bed chock full of dozens of supportless half-flat casualties and go to town.

>>93295397
A picture might help, or do you assume I remember the names of every stl I've ever downloaded or seen somewhere?

>>93295397
Hi Mauro

>>93295397
>>93295713

My IP range is banned from uploading images but heres a link:

https://dl2.myminifactory.com/object-assets/633b0792e3720/images/square-w-adventure.jpg

>>93295827
Lol by random fucking happensance you're literally just one message too late
It was a nice WTF moment, tho

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Im pretty new to the hobby and naturally I have instantly run into a problem I cant seem to find definitive answers too.
Im trying to print some Arbite models I found in the usual place that I already know ill need to make supports for, but chitubox yells at me about cavities even after I meshmixer to make them solid.

I just assume im doing everything wrong or worrying about things that dont really matter at the model scale. What is your usual workflow with taking random stl's from the usual place and getting them into a printable state?

>>93296628

Models DO explode when resin is trapped inside. If meshmixer doesn't cut it, give it a go with the Remesh + Decimate (I'd say, 0.2/0.5) modifiers in blender

>>93296813
Ill try that and see what I get.
It seems common that a lot of the models I get from the 'groups' have these same issues, unsupported and cavities.
I guess im just shocked that the files shared around are unsupported / have cavities.
I promise if I do figure out an easy workflow to print stuff ill make sure to share the supported / fixed files.

>>93296885
unsupported is because its better, you can just feed it into lychees auto-support and you have what most people do to release a pre-supported model.
cavitiers is because a lot of the lesser known modelrs are just people who can model, but not slice, so they're converting a blender model to an STL and thats all.

>>93301156
If auto supports are reliable enough that makes sense.
Im new to the whole process and am only just now surprised at how difficult it seems to be to make models solid / remove hollow spots.
I thought going in this would be the easy part

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Kei truck body kit for my bosozoku gas lands team

>>93301818
auto supports are easy, but kind of shit, unfortunately most modellers don't do much printing, so their supporting for pre-supported is either just auto supports or super under supported. you will eventually learn how to spot islands and troublespots, but until then download UVtools and give everything a once over in there to learn problem spots (i think lychee lets you auto export to UV tools now?)
making models solid is a whole issue with how they were made, some software just does not play well with solid STLs, and unfortunately that software is what most people start modelling with, blender, which is designed for making SFM porn above all else.

>>93302601
So my workflow should be, import stl into lychee, rotte to favorable angle, auto support, detect islands and fix supports, export into uv tools, fill cavites (uv tools does this well? Or is it pretty manual), then finally print?

>>93302649
your pipeline should be import into windows default 3d builder,
if it brings in the pop-up in the bottom corner saying its broken, just fix it there.
Go to edit, split, keep bottom, then drag it through looking for voids manually, if its there just put a cube or sphere on it to fill it in, then export as a new STL
import the fixed stl to lychee
rotate so the main face is up and unmarred by the supports
auto support
island detection manually add supports onto each island, dont trust the auto supports for islands it missed the first time.
slice to UV tools, just let it run through its problem checks,
look through the islands it picks up, if its one layer, remove it, if its a LOT of layers, go back to lychee and support it properly, you fucked up last time and any failures is 100% your fault.
export from UV tools and put onto SD card
re-level print bed
print
see all the places that fucked up because you're still learning
repeat 30-40 times.

>>93303176
Sometimes I wonder if I'm doing the same hobby. I've never done any of this. I either print presupported or in very rare cases with auto supports and it just prints.
>re-level
Literally why? I did it once, when I got the printer, and it's good.

To me, all this sounds so weird, overcomplicated and autistic even, when all I need to make miniatures is to slice a presupported file and click on network sending in chitu to print.

I just bought an anycubic Kobra 2 to print terrain with it was 140€ so hopefully I made a decent choice. What am I in for? Anyone got experience with it?
I only ever printed on an SLA anycubic so I'm new to filament

>>93302428
got a bent axle there mate

>>93304134
sounds like you got unreasonably lucky.
my choice of minis to print are usually weird one-offs, like a maid and butler here, 5 man skeletal band there, maybe a slime lower half i've merged with a wizards torso.
because most of these minis aren't worth much the modelers dont put a lot of time into fixing issues after releasing them, unlike common space marine makers who will rerelease the same mini with bits dozens of times for patreon bux, which makes it worth it for them to make models that work for the "press button get mini" style printers

i suggest releveling because for beginners its usually going to go out of level every print because they'll hold the printbed by the shaft and lean on the print bed to remove their prints, so until they learn, releveling often is important.

same with tossing the STL into 3d builder and looking for issues, once you know how to spot them in your slicer you'll be able to fix that yourself.

same with UV tools too, i stopped using it once i stopped auto-supporting and did my own manual island hunting, but as a beginner it will point out the issues.

>>93303176
>import into windows default 3d builder,
>if it brings in the pop-up in the bottom corner saying its broken, just fix it there.

Yep.
Basic Windows 3D tool is surprisingly reliable

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>>93290937
That whole castle makes no sense. It looks like someone smashed the architecture of 2 or more real world castles together to make something they find appealing, but they have no foundational knowledge in late medieval architecture, purpose or style.

Barely better than ai slop.

Hey guys,
Was there ever a good 6-8mm Imperial Thunderbolt sculpt? The few left on cults don't look quite like the FW/AA ones, I'm wondering if any existed but were taken down by james.

Thanks

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>>93309358
Did these recently, enjoying the challenge of modelling in 6mm

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DM Stash shill here.

Here's your model lads, as voted by you.

https://mega.nz/file/5Qc0XQSL#xAo9p1xcu5TmOp6vGJc751EkzRWFr6f5mj2CWIs3K7Q

Kind of surprised this was the one that won to be honest, but hope you guys enjoy it! There's also another free model on our website at the moment.

https://www.dmstash.com/product/ser-elias-the-forgotten-knight-of-the-void/

>>93315186
Thanks man. This thread always goes with the biggest monster but this time went with the 2nd biggest for some reason.

>>93315186
Lawsuit going alright? The fuckery of Emang has me a bit worried about all of this as that cunt might cause a greater focus on this.

>>93315436
I think he said in a few months back its been resolved without a court decision.

>>93315614
Great for them. Haven't been here in a while

I got an ankermake m5 printer the other day and have been fucking around with it.

My god are supports fucking annoying.

>>93316958
Hot water bro

>>93317049
That works? I been looking stuff up but havent come upon that solution yet. If it works you are a godsent.

>>93305585
stop giving advice retard

Getting into 3D printing here.
How retard proof are the Elegoo printers?

>>93319202
100% retard proof

>>93319486
>>93319202
This isn't quite true. I'm a retard and I can't figure out how to work my Neptune 4 Max for a week now. (Currently the levelling is fucked because the thumbscrews just fall off when I try to turn them enough, and the autolevel keeps throwing an error even when I think I'm mostly right)

>>93319202
Very, especially if you get one compatible with the USB air filter and network sending.

Is it just me or are like half of all STLs out there made by retards who don't actually print them and have never touched tabletop?
>thin-ass parts that break if you look at them
>barely any area to hold glue so you have to greenstuff them to the base
>modular shit that expects you to not only glue small bits to smooth areas barely fit for it but you also have to greenstuff this half the time
No wonder like 90% of resellers stick to tried and true sculpts.

>>93321784
Seriously, I been trying to do spaceship models and like half of them at least seem to just be ripped straight from various video games with no attention paid to structural requirements or limitations. That or they have weird ass voids where they didnt complete or smooth out the model.

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I've started having fun printing large minis and scaling up very detailed ones to larger sizes, but cleanup is a bitch. All my minis get extra assholes for drainage and hollowing, but is there something like a UV LED on a stick I can put inside a drain hole to cure the inside? I have one of those flat multi-LED UV flashlights, but they don't cure the crevices inside the hollowed models well.

>>93324118
You can cure your stuff in water to help light bounce light inside the hole or order a UV pen light.

>>93324118
>but is there something like a UV LED on a stick I can put inside a drain hole to cure the inside?
yes one of the major chink brands has one cant remember which one though

>>93321068
You are talking about an FDM printer, when i assumed he is talking about a resin printer. (which are way easier to get running + get good results with as a total newbie).

>>93321784
>made by retards who don't actually print them and have never touched tabletop?

Guess what, 3d modelling is a completely different hobby than tabletop wargaming/role playing.
There is some overlap, but of course there are people who just design models, with no connection to tabletop gaming at all.

Some of these people might do test prints, maybe even hire someone to paint their stuff, others just make their models without any consideration.

>>93321784
It's not you, the vast majority of 3D artists have no idea what works or not for minis, they don't understand that a certain amount of cartoonish proportions is needed because things like a 4mm dagger doesn't translate to anything once at 28mm scale

>>93324649
Another thread mentioned that there is the possibility that a lot of the sculpts are meant to look good for portfolios which might explain how a lot of STL models have detailing stuffed into every available spot with no consideration that they'll be painted.

>>93324642
Oh, true. My resin is a Photon and even a mental invalid like myself works it simply enough. I thought FDM would be easier, ugh.

>>93303176
>Re-level print bed
What fucking retarded advice is this? You just need to level your print bed once, and unless something goes very wrong you don't need to level it again.
Also
>dont trust the auto supports for islands it missed the first time.
This is nonsense, you can absolutely use auto-supports for these islands, it's just a little better to use light supports with a 25 at the top, because these tend to be smaller and.you don't want to lose detail.

where do I share an stl?

>>93324118
Use a translucent/clear resin. The light will pass right through.

>>93328672
most people use free filehosts like gofile mega etc

>>93327777
how many times have you seen beginner printers holding the shaft of their printbed and LEANING on the prints to remove them? because i've had multiple real life people confuse as to why their prints are failing every second or third print when they're bending the thing out of level after every print.

and lychee autosupports ARE fine, but the 'fix islands' button will jam a support bigger than the actual island for something that doesn't need supporting and should just be removed SO often that its not with the cleanup time later compared to just going into uvtools and removing the 5 pixels

anons 'guide' is shit for everyday use, but has some use for beginners

>>93330031
Im confused, are people having trouble removing prints from beds? As long as I allow it to cool mine always pop right off.

>>93330031
>how many times have you seen beginner printers holding the shaft of their printbed and LEANING on the prints to remove them?
I'll be honest and admit I don't understand what you mean, but bed releveling should be done almost never.
>the 'fix islands' button will jam a support bigger than the actual island.
Before you click fix islands select light supports, and pull the support tip slider to about 25, under 20 and the supports are so small uvtools is going to complain.
When you do this, all the auto supports from fix islands will be small with a small tip.

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>>93330097
ive had a few friends get into resin printing because i refused to keep printing them hoards of space marines and horny statues.
every one of them had issues removing prints (despite suggesting a magnetic plate) so they would hold the 'neck' of the print plate,pic related, and just lean on the prints with a spatula to pop them off, you can SEE its off level when they re-install it on the machine.

>>93330115
pic related is what i mean by the shaft,

im using the same old version of lychee i installed back in 2022 because i refuse to use the paid version to access a lot of the settings i currently use, so it may be better on the updated one, but on the old version the auto supports are overzealous on tiny bits.

>>93330194
I have a mars 3 pro, so no matter how hard I fuck with the plate when removing prints it never changes the level. So this may be a your mileage may vary situation.
But in regards to lychee, I doubt most people are using an older version. In the current one. You can choose a lot about auto supports, even in the free version.

Let's say, hypothetically, that I got a chimera tank, sized for w40k, and I wanted to print it on a resin printer. Let's say the model is whole, and if I wanted to, I would hypothetically have to separate it into 3 parts.

Should I separate the tank into the hull and the 2 sides, or should I just slap it full into the printer and print it whole? If I did, would I have problems with hollowing it out?

Apologies if this has been asked, but with shapeways going under, are there any decent alternatives who do high-detail plastic/resin with wax supports? not needing parts to be supported to print was a massive plus, and it'd be nice to have alternate options.

>>93302428
That's fantastic lol, great job anon

>>93325945
Certainly possible for some of them.

>>93333359
Why not print one of the thousand chimeras out there, that are already in neat pieces, already hollowed and ready.

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>>93334462
>one of the thousand chimeras out there
hypothetically, because I have only found one that was good enough

So is this a good/bad idea?

>>93334571
Its fine. Use the hallowing function. After that use the punch function and put some 6mm holes in the bottom. Like 3or 4 of 'em. Good to go.

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questions about cleaning and curing.

how long would you really recomend to do it?

I have this machine, and the timer, the minimum is 2 minutes, for cleaning... 2 minutes is maybe enough, if they are to many maybe 5 minutes... seems to work fine.

but curing it, 2 minutes seems to be to much time and the minies feel more fragile. so I would stop it at 30 seconds, and flip it for other 30....

what are your times for this stuff?

>>93335683
I just put them into the sun until they feel nice to touch

>>93335946
on averague how many minutes or hours it takes on the sun?

>>93335683
I usually just cure it at like 5-6 min and 2-3x times for really large pieces because I want everything actually cured.
Hasn't really changed anything for me since I use ABS-likes for durability.
If you're not using a flexible resin mix to get them bending instead of breaking then what you're doing is essentially leaving them not fully cured as far as I can tell.

>>93336612
nta but my slow resin needs 45 minutes to stop feeling sticky to the touch

Oh boy, 9 hours into an 18 hour print and I bump the printer hard enough to fuck the print. So much wasted material. The pain.

who makes the best lion as in the big cat, models? I'm more than willing to pay for this.

I'm a complete retard but with a fair amount of money. I want to print mostly 1:28 and 1:35 minis (including larger models) in the best quality possible. I don't really care about the volume. I can do pretty much 100% of my work on the 3D software/sculpting part, but I have absolutely no idea what printer I should get.
Pls advice.

Anyone had a play with the Mars 5 Ultra? I have to replace the resin tank on my 4 and im wondering if I may as well just upgrade

>>93341484
Also, while I'm at it, how does Saturn compare to Mars in terms of print quality?

>>93341499
Specifically, the 5 Ultra vs the Saturn 4, since they're about the same price in my country

>>93303176
>windows default 3d builder,
is it just me or is the download button not doing anything?

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>>93340173
Go on myminifactory, type lion, and pick one.
If you want something realistic, I'm pretty partial to Animal Den Miniatures

Photon Mono M5 is currently $160 off right now, is it worth it?
I've only experience with filament printers, not resin.

>>93342512
Just get an Elegoo Mars 4.
It's also on sale and will save you some money to put towards a wash station and resin.
Screen is smaller but most models too big for the Mars 4 can be sliced easily.

How do you deal with seams? I had to dovetail some parts on a larger print and I want to fil those in somehow and smooth them out before I paint it.

>>93344683
putty + sandable primer

>>93345216
Any kinds you would recommend?

why is this thread so slow? we can't even keep a discussion going :/

>>93346140
Whenever I ask a question I get ignored so I hardly ever bother

>>93346140
>>93346560
Because its been said thousands of times already. Thread is slow because this hobby is high-cost and high-maintenance well outside the realm of the average channer. A lot of folk moved on to other platforms once reddit was told about this general and the majority of people left who browse here just want free shit.

Are there any good tutorials on supporting models in lychee? Particularly focussing on theory and workflow rather than just the controls?

>>93329726
No it won't. It still only penetrates a few mm.
>>93324118
I'm not aware of any for sale, but you could easily make one with a UV LED, a resistor and a USB cable and a straw or bit of bailing wire. It's just 4 solder connections and a some electrical tape/heat shrink to prevent short circuits.

>>93335683
I cure for 5 minutes. Depending on the curing station (mine has LEDs in the floor) it may be necessary to flip the model halfway through as you've been doing.
As for cleaning, 2 minutes is plenty, especially if it's being stirred. More important is having a second bath of clean IPA to then rinse it in (just a quick dip and swish will do), since the print can only ever be as clean as the last bath it was washed in and WILL have residue left over from that first bath.

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>Back center is too high
>Front center is too low
How do I fix this? Adjustment knobs are only along the sides, not the middle. There were 2 screws under the PEI but no matter how tightly I adjusted them, this didn't seem to affect the mesh.

>>93348946
> It still only penetrates a few mm
...and if it's hollowed and cleaned properly that should be sufficient.
Honest question: Suppose someone prints a 'n' mm thick plate. If a UV light gets applied to the back and light bleeds through the piece, then the light's getting through, no? Follow-up; if you hollow your file to 'n' mm walls, and clean it well to give it the best opportunity for success, then shouldn't it cure enough to be stable?

>>93318789
Nigger

>screws in my resin tub are so tight I literally can’t get them out

Help

whats the amazon day sale for printers and supplies?

>>93342034
those are ill as fuck.

>>93290937
I wish I had one.

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Current project. About 3/4 done printing. Gonna have to smooth out those seams and paint then Im thinking magnetic lock system for how it connects to the neck piece. What colors you think would look good? Im thinking blue or red.

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>>93351902
Huh. I wonder why that rotated.

>>93351902
blue and black
a la sub zero from street fighter

>>93342034
>>93350540
just a heads up, animal den minis are not regular 28/32mm scale, much larger. not sure if that matters for you

>>93352027
Oh that could be nice

>>93352066
thats even better.

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I am a noob with printing but want to get the Mars 5 (or 4) as an entry point to printing, would I be able to print terrain on these printers? Nothing crazy just objective markers or small buildings.
What's the largest thing you have printed on a Mars printer (or printer with a similar printing size?)

>>93353125
One more question I have is has anyone here bought a printer refurbished or used? How was that?

>>93353156
I got an ankermake m5 on amazon refurbish, $300 cheaper than sfandard and the fucker looks brand new. So far it works great.

>>93353156
I bought 2 from elegoos EU ebay refurbish partner.
Everything was great, the mars 2 pro was sold unseen and only had a broken foot, the mars 4 had tiny scratches around the build plate, else was almost like new.

>>93353125
Look up the build volume of whatever printer you're looking at to see if what you want to print will fit. Personally, I only print terrain on FDM printers. Would be a lot of resin for even a small piece of terrain and resin doesnt have anywhere near the durability of basic bitch PLA. As for biggest thing on my Mars 3 printer, ive printed now 2 land raiders. They were in separate parts to make it possible; most files designed for resin printing will come cut up to fit on mars-size printers.

Am I in the minority for liking 28mm style miniatures more than the 32mm+ that seem to be so much more popular with printable mini sculptors? Maybe it's because I grew up painting a lot of Reaper metal sculpts (and touching up shitty Wizkids prepaints) that I just prefer little dudes with fucked up proportions?

Does anyone have any recommended sculptors who embrace clarity of detail, big heads?

>>93353125
Not really, Mars is too small. Get a Saturn or a larger FDM printer if you wanna print terrain

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>>93356554
>>93355109
>>93354105
>>93353844
Thanks for the input anons, right now I am looking between
>Saturn 4 Ultra - The good specs + size and the QoL features seem appealing
>Mars 4 Max (Refurbished) - Smaller build volume but still larger than the other Mars printers, also less than half the price.
Leaning towards the Mars 4 max because while the QoL features seem nice I don't think there is that large of a difference in prints especially to the naked eye, but getting the Saturn 4 Ultra and then not having to upgrade for a decade also seems appealing.
Any more input is appreciated. The vast majority of what I would be printing would be infantry and cavalry with maybe a few tanks, I figure if you are printing an Imperial Knight you will have to do it in pieces no matter what printer you choose.

How important do you think Z axis height actually is? Is it something that you found yourself noticing or was it not important?

Had to buy a new resin vat. Almost just bought a whole new printer lol.

>>93356967
I think it matters more, if your printer is on the smaller side. I own only mars ones, and I had to go to the z limit with some prints and it was weird that the mars 1 lifted the hood when you got too high.

>>93345374
Ak primer, and i use "green putty" by greenstuff world, which is pretty much the same stuff as vallejo's plastic putty, just green, not white. I got it a couple cents cheaper, but both is totally fine. (there are other brands of similar plastic putty too).

I actually often use it not only as gapfiller, but also to support the superglue. I dont want to use activator, and with some parts, it helps to have a drop of superglue, and a tiny bit of the putty on the other side, and it helps to keep it in place until the glue starts to settle.

>>93357931
>mars 2
>fep rips
>well, time to replace it
>screws are full of hard resin
>screw heads get loose
>look for a new vat with preinstalled fep
>those prices...

>buy mars 4 pro instead