>>93367506
Wish I had grabbed RFSs titan before he got bullied :'(

>>93367754
And to answer the question the original photon had a color screen and new models use a mono screen which needs less exposure time to do its job.

For proper ventilation and heating would
>Grow tent big enough to hold printer + Wash and Cure station. This is to make venting fumes out easy and make heat control easy
>Dryer vent from tent to window
>mini heater in tent to keep temperature
Be enough?

>>93367770
One more thing it would also do is eliminate any sunlight from reaching the printer while its working, not sure how important that is.

>>93367770
>>93367784
Yes that will work fine. Get a grow tent without a window though.

>>93367796
Yeah that makes sense, also thought about getting a brewers belt to go around the printer instead of a normal heater would that work?
Printer is a Saturn 3 Ultra for reference.

>>93367901
With a belt you have to take it off and put it back on again each time you want to access the printer. Think about a cheap space heater with temp control.

>>93367912
What if you put the belt around the vat itself? I saw a guy do it with a Saturn 4 so I presumed it would work with a Saturn 3 Ultra

>>93368029
Not familiar with those models but if someone can do it why not? I was just thinking of cost.

If I have a large printer but a small Wash and Cure machine can I just cure and wash the printed models in batches if they don't all fit in on the curing plate?

Saturn 4 and Saturn 3 Ultra are almost the same price where I live.
I tend to the Saturn 4 but any opinions on those two printers?

>>93368273
Saturn 3 Ultra seems better than the base 4 IMO, it's your choice between a few QoL features or a larger build plate.

Do you merge dudes with their bases before printing or use glue afterwards? Same with weapons? I’ve been printing them all separately but getting a lot of failures for small equipment like swords.

>>93370970
I've done both. I'm getting on so doing everything merged is a huge time saver but at the expense of some painting errors due to lack of access but nothing really noticeable.

>>93373565
I should qualify that with that I just merge the minis. The bases I do separately as I do them in bulk for each unit.

>>93370970
I print separate. Make sure your resin and room are warm enough when you print. That's usually what causes small parts failures for me. Also make sure you don't have unsupported bridges.

Can sites like minifactory actually claim any type of copyright or terms of use if i print, paint, and resell on ebay? or is it just donut steel

>>93379951
>Can sites like minifactory

No, why should they? They are a marketplace.

If anyone, the creator can claim his copyright, but if its a "used" (i.e. painted) figure, probably not.

>>93379951
I think many makers have a "seller"-kinda-deal that allow you to sell their prints.

HOWEVER, I'm not sure how that applies to your question, also I guess I'm pretty sure you can pass it off as selling the painting service and not the miniature itself.

>>93370970
I've done both, printing on base seems to increase plate-side detail loss, makes painting a bit harder, and may cause issues with hollowing in some cases but it's certainly more convenient.

Is the Mars 4 Max good enough for printing minis? Can it print something the size of a Leman Russ?

>>93380394
>Is the Mars 4 Max good enough for printing minis?

Its at least 80% your settings and what you do in the slicer if a mini looks good or if its covered in layer lines. You can get great results even on a Mars 2.
Mars 4 is perfectly fine, and the Mars 5 offers just (minor in my opinion) quality of life features over the 4 Ultra.

>Can it print something the size of a Leman Russ?

Yes

>>93380534
Ok that's good to hear as I'm diving in finally and decided on a Mars 4 Max but wanted to make sure I was not limiting myself to just printing infantry and being super limited by the Z axis.
I presume even larger models can be printed in pieces right? So if I want to print out a Giant for an Orcs and Goblins army that its pre-supported in segments it should fit right?

To the handful of anons that sell files, how is Etsy as a platform for selling files? I really dislike Etsy as whole, partially because of how infested it is with cheap chinesium being claimed as handcrafter, the rest for their general practices, but it definitely has more traffic than most 3d printing oriented sites

>>93381549
Does Etsy really have more traffic than mmf or cults?

>>93381812
Yes due to etsy selling a wider range of products than the other two due to them being limited to just models. You would have to contact etsy directly to see how many 3d models were sold on the platform.

>>93381812
Fuck yes. It's barely comparable. I have some stuff on shapeways, but that's a dead service/site and has been for a while. MMF are bastards. While I understand the subscription fee due to just how massive their storage fees can be for 3d files, their asking for a subscription for a boosted search result is terrible. Plus, they've fucked over a few creators by making their content free without contacting the creator. And I'm missing the screenshot, but I know you can find the post on reddit /rprinted minis.

>>93382367
>>93382412
I'm sure it has more traffic in general but for STLs I assumed it had similar popularity to the others, but I didn't know the MMF stuff.

>>93382467
Everything regarding 3d-printing as a hobby is pretty emergent. Most people want IP infringement and generally don't want to pay for it. 3d printing is, for the most part, too niche for most companies to care. We're basically in the early era of high speed internet for torrents

What am I supposed to do with all my resin water and used IPA? I've got a bucket full of industrial chemicals on my verandah

>>93382700
Drink it you soft faggot

>>93382700
Let them sit in the sun to cure and then dispose of them normally

>>93378876
The problems I have with small parts tend to be either getting lost during washing or warping during curing. Leaving them on the supports seems to work. I’m in the desert so garage is 30 to 45 C depending on time of day so low temp isn’t the issue.

>>93382700
You can reuse the IPA a few times. I put it in a jar and let the resin settle them pour it off through a filter and then do cure the resin waste and chuck it. For water and left over IPA you can cure the resin and evaporate the rest.

I'm in the process of printing some gallowdark terrain for killteam. I do have some hair-like filaments, but cleanup should be easy enough. Never used a PLA printer before

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>>93383958
pardon the double post, I forgot to attach pic related

>>93367725
Getting in to Blender here.

What are the best steps of making movement trays for FDM printing?
Or at the very least what tutorials should I look up that would allow me to be able to follow as guides for making movement trays in Blender despite them not being movement tray tutorials?
So far I've got these tutorials on my radar:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSR1eA6E89g
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xTy7s0y9KgE

I am aware that I could model rank and flank movement trays in 3D builder, but it is the round movement trays that have me a bit confused.

My resin prints seem to get some kind of flash/residue that collects in the recesses, does anyone know what it is or how to get it to stop?

>>93381812
Of course, for the fact alone that MMF and Cults only sell STL files, so potential buyers are only people with a printer, whereas on Etsy, actual miniatures are sold (among tons of other shit, like crafting things for women, cosplay stuff etc).

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>>93384462
Pic of what I mean. Advice appreciated

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>>93367725
Anyone know any good files for natural formations such as rivers, hills and cliffs?

>>93385195
Wash it better before curing

>>93385610
Hm I am already washing for 10 mins in my washing station

>>93385930
Dunk your print in a (dirty) separate ipa bath before you put it in the wash station.
Filter your wash station with a paint/coffee filter to get rid of current white residue.

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>>93385930
Use an old toothbrush as well to really get the print clean with IPA.

>>93386820
Not quoted but personally I did that and I didn't find it helped much while dunking them in another IPA bowl to get the majority of the dirt off before putting them in the cure & wash more or less fixed that issue for me.

>>93379951
who the fuck would even care? and how can they even prove that the model is theirs?

>>93387778
The burden of proof usually falls on the seller to prove it is theirs to sell from what I have seen, especially if there is multiple reports. This is how the scanning mafia limit new players in their space.

>>93386820
>>93385987
I'm surprised as I've never had that problem before, been printing for 6 months and until now everything was clean as

Some1 have the STL file from "March to Hell - Patreon"!?!


Thx and have a nice day.

Frequently get an issue where I'm printing and the base gets printed but the rest of the model doesn't, anyone know the issue?

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>>93390830
>>93387755
It helped me, that's all I'm sayin'. You might also just need to switch out your IPA for cleaner stuff, but I find the toothbrush gets the hard to reach crevasses.

Just replaced my FEP and for some reason models in the middle just won't print - either that or they get stuck to the FEP and peel off the build plate. Is this likely a FEP issue that can be solved by changing it, or something else?

>>93392635
Probably needs to be tighter.

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aHR0cHM6Ly90Lm1lLytDeGt4YTNBeGdFUmxPV1Ew

>>93392635
I might also get a fermentation belt. It's winter here and I can heat the room to 25C ambient but I would imagine the resin is colder than that
>>93392775
I replaced it and it's drum-tight now at least

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>93392834

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>>93392834

>>93385930
Use your wash station to get the bulk of the excess resin off, then swish it in a small tub of clean ipa to rinse any contaminated ipa off.
The reason is that no matter how good your wash station is, any resin washed off a print remains in the ipa. When a model comes out of that contaminated ipa, the ipa evaporates and leaves behind the contaminated resin that was in suspension.

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newfag to printing here, do these islands actually matter? ive added a few myself here and there but as far as i can tell the whole model is mostly built upon itself and has supports for the parts that exist beyond the base plate. is this just to be expected sometimes with larger models?

first print ever btw using uniform gk2

>buy Mars 4 ultra
>happily print near non-stop for 6 months without issue
>decide to replace the original ACF since it's getting a bit scratched
>buy the proper ACF from Elegoo
>replace it
>have had to replace it 3 times in the past week, all due to punctures that have resulted in resin curing directly onto the screen

What am I doing wrong? Don't think I'm overstretching the ACF since you just lay it flat without tension to do the bolts up and the shape of the tank is what tensions it

>>93394310
How would you recommend disposing of contaminated ipa? I've been doing repeated filtering and evaporation but it's real slow-going.

>>93395613
Just buy a new vat with preinstalled fep.

>>93395613
You are supposed to use a sponge underneath the film so you don't put it in too tight, watch elegoo's videos
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=px_TVms6lT8

>>93394310
>Use your wash station to get the bulk of the excess resin off, then swish it in a small tub of clean ipa to rinse any contaminated ipa off.
Actually the reverse imo.
Have a dirty IPA bath first, then run it in your cure & wash.
Both are going to get dirty anyway but it'll keep the cure & wash better for longer and then you can just filter it to get it back to not having white residue.

If one of yous is in the middle of a print with an Ender3, could you measure the temperature of the extruded motor? Ive been getting failures from the motor getting hot enough to soften PLA and cause a misfeed. I’ve added a heatsink onto the back of the extruder motor and greatly loosened the tension on the feed arm but it still giving problems and after printing for some time, the motor is too hot to keep a finger on for more than a couple seconds. Seems like it shouldn’t be that hot and maybe a fire hazard.

Replace motor? Upgrade to direct drive? Replace whole thing for a different FLM printer with self leveling etc?

Haven't checked in on printers for a while and wow they have come a long way. Looking at getting one soon. What's the status on scanned gw miniatures? Is there a full range out there?

>>93399602
Pretty much yes.
The most popular factions are fully scanned in good quality, super popular stuff even twice or three times by different people, some scanners work on doing old stuff, others work their way through necromunda or warcry.
For new and fancy releases it takes like 3 weeks until a scan is available. The new CSM lord is available, AoS Dark Oath is being scanned, Gunnar Brand box is available, Skaventide is being worked on (parts available afaik).

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Hey guys. Quick question, I know I'm going to sound like a fag, but I've been looking for a porphyrion file for the longest time now and I can't find it anywhere. Its always taken down. Would anyone have the file here? Or any pointers that anyone could give me?

Posting a Carastus I just finished printing so that atleast im contributing. (Took about a bottle and a half of sirayatech grey and about 22 hours)

>>93400434
Hell yeah dude that's what I want to hear. Looking forward to this. This 3d design software is really cool too, watched a 10 minute tutorial on reposing minis at the joints and it looks super easy.

>>93367725
>Keep your model pics naked (no paint/undercoat only)
Is there a specific reason the general is against posting painted models?

>>93400434
When you say scans do you mean literal scanning technology? Where do you get them? Not expect a literal answer for obvious reasons.

>>93400661
Apart from there already being a thread for painted minis (>>>/tg/wip) you should read the FAQ.

>>93395546
If you don't support an island, it won't be printed.

Do some more research.

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Finally got a print of my snaildog models, really happy with the Saturn 4 after upgrading from the OG Saturn.

https://www.printables.com/model/926862-snail-dog

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My mother bought a FDA (filament) printer a while ago, and I want to learn to use, and then move to a resin printer, but she's not a good teacher (most of thhere advice is "google it/let me do it"). Anyone has a guide/course on how to use the FDA printer?

>>93400990
That's some mighty crisp prints
>>93401251
I'm sorry to hear youtube is banned in your country

>>93400692
Well if you want to get a taste, maybe check out one of the encoded strings in this thread?

>>93401357
I'm in, thanks anon I completely missed that post.

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>reminder that gwedolin and the bagfag army monitor this thread

>>93399514
Don't own an Ender, but with steppers getting hot it could be because of too high current, maybe try reducing that in the settings or firmware.
How about running the printer without filament and with a hot end temp of 40°C, that way you can tell it must be heat from the motors itself.

But check if the prints stay fine, because with not enough power the motors can stop working or start missing steps.

>>93401251
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html
This guy is real good at step by step guides and his site has good tools.

>>93401430
GW niggers have by a mile the most effective army of IP lawyers ever to grace the face of the earth. They put Nintendo and Disney to shame, 3d printing really got them spooked.

>>93401538
>the most effective army of IP lawyers
I cant believe how they have cultured such a rabidly fanatical fanbase that will do most of the work for them.

>>93401350
Any suggested video, there's a lot, and I don't know if the advice and lessons they are giving are good or not.

>>93401479
Those seem helpful, but calibrating and modifying the g-code (IIRC those are the instructions for the printer) is a bit advanced, right? I'm searching for something that teaches from the start, for someone without experience.

>>93401557
>Any suggested video
not really as I have been fdming for years. just type "fdm printer tips for beginners" into the yt searchbar and look at the ones with the most views

>>93401557
Calibration for more recent models usually isn't necessary, some learning resources are available on prusa website even if yours isn't a prusa. Also 3dpg on diy is more oriented on fdm printers if you're interested

>>93401538
>3d printing really got them spooked.
As it should, the hurdle of spending money on a printer and accessories and then the learning curve of using it is still cheaper than buying a 2k army of new models, and that's just the first army. 3d Printing takes extra time to clean the models but snipping and gluing a full army takes just as long if not longer.
Within 15 years GW will sell STLs alongside models I think.
And seconding your point some scanners got hit by GW very recently so they really are monitoring certain sites including here.

>>93401654
>Within 15 years (((they))) will sell STLs alongside models I think.
I think they realize the futility of playing stl whack-a-mole already, so knowing that any stl they release will be out in the world within hours.

>>93401722
Yeah but consider how many people would rather go through the official medium than pirating things.
They could easily work it into Warhammer+ and have it so you get STLs for products you verify as having bought. There will always be pirates but it's proportional to how inconvenient normal mediums are.
At some point they will see profit opportunities and then engage with it.

>>93401729
The only way they are going to get it to work is having a full range of stls available for a cheap subscription. No one is going to be paying the $50+ they will inevitably charge per file. They have just burned far too many bridges with their Jewish greed bullshit along with turbofucking the game itself.

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>>93380678
I was using an original anycubic photon for years to print larger models. You can do it with a smaller plate, you just need to split the models up. I have a Sons of Behamat army where all but one model was printed on the original photon. Largest model was King Brodd who is about 25cm tall (on 130mm base).

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>>93385195
I first rinse off the bulk of the remaining resin in a "dirty" IPA bath, then put the pieces into one of these magnetic impeller wash stations with fairly clean IPA. This keeps you from having to change out the good IPA all the time. pic related are some ODSTs I printed. Also don't be overly afraid of supports, I used to try and keep it to a minimum way to hard, you get softer, warped surfaces as unsupported layers sorta slough off and drift off into the vat on difficult layers.

>>93392204
fellow armada man how do you fare in this time of woe

>>93400692
You get the files where you get all stls. Purple site and trannygram

>>93401774
They will do it, and if they are smart, they start with FW stuff and upgrade "sprues".

>>93402373
>Smart
>GW
Lol no. Unless some major change happens they will keep jacking up prices for physical products and demonizing printing because they have a conditioned fanbase that will buy anything with their logo on it, no matter the price per product.

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>>93401729
>Yeah but consider how many people would rather go through the official medium than pirating things.

If it would be easy and reliable to use, and reasonably priced, people would be all over Warhammer+.
Just look how Steam is super successful, despite the fact that you can download any game for free.

Sure, there are the diehard pirated that never purchase anything, but they are a minority.
Maybe thats what GW is thinking about people who print their scanned miniatures right now, an annoying minority who would not have purchased the things anyway (i guess similar to how they see recasts).
They fight them whenever they see them advertising their stuff to openly, but its not like they can prevent pic related to be shared not even a month after its release. And if they close down one distribution channel, its getting shared in 2 others, the files are there and GW cant go from house to house to delete them.
So they either can decide to participate and make some money from the "pirates" by providing a better/faster service than the people who scan, or they can keep ignoring it, which is also valid, because its doubtful that resin printing will ever be vastly widespread. Its as easy as it gets right now, and printing quality is as good as it needs to be, and prices are really low too. But its just not a side-hobby for everyone, so GW is somewhat right if they keep ignoring it.

>>93405510
>people who print their scanned miniatures right now, an annoying minority who would not have purchased the things anyway

Most pirates would not have been forced into printing if it wasn't for insane pricing. Compare shit GW kits to amazing gunpla kits that are like a quarter of the price. They could halve the price of kits and still make a tidy profit, sales would explode too.

>>93382700
When my alcohol gets too dirty I just put it outside on a flat container and make it the atmosphere's problem

>>93381549
I get absolute 0 traffic on my Etsy store compared to MMF. That being said MMF just completely rejigged their pricing model and are nickel-and-diming creators so might try and invest more into Etsy. Etsy has a lot more shit to contend with, and I think you'll struggle to get organic traffic there. It has more traffic like anons said, but a lot of it is less qualified if all you're selling is files. One positive point is everyone on MMF generally has a 3D printer and is aware what you're selling is a 3D file. You will get a lot of morons on Etsy buying your digital files and wanting refunds after no matter how many disclaimers you put up.

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>>93402202
Actually printing those use in OPR's Warfleets :/

But love the ODSTs; I've printed some of georgio donato's stuff and it's great. what resin is that?

>>93383969
youve got some ghosting i see
theres a cura (and I believe in prusaslicer too) setting for that
-outer wall acceleration - set it to really low number, like 250 mms-1. tighten your wheels (and maybe belts) but not too much. most of the vibration after change of direction will disappear

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I had my first successful print! After several attempts that resulted in a "crust" of cured resin stuck at the bottom of the vat, I put some PETF lube on the clear plastic, re-zeroed the plate, and got a couple 28mm weapons out of my new Anycubic Photon Mono 2.
I'm really glad of the quality I get for it, but there's a big issue I haven't solved yet.

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>>93411199
Most of the stuff I'm trying to print only materializes as a solidified layer at the bottom of the vat, no matter what I do! I tried making the rafts wider, the supports thicker, and I double-checked if the curing settings were the right ones for my resin (they are), but no matter what I do, I either have a part of the stuff I wanted to print if it's a bunch of small models, or nothing at all if I'm trying for a bigger model.
Do any of you guys know what could be the reasons for this?
Oh, and I changed the curing time settings, and made the rafts thicker, too

>>93384385
id just go boolean cut with some tolerance

is it ok to ask for a little spoonfeeding of non GW models? specifically tau suit and alien proxies, not looking for anything close to 1:1 GW kits, just good proxy models to use for an army but I'm having trouble finding stuff that's scaled properly for current crisis suits instead of hazard suits

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Hey!

I am new to kill team and I am trying to get some terrain for my minis that also don’t use that much space.

While I am not asking for links or anything, if anyone could point me to EDF terrain files or the secutor tactics STL to print foldable terrain I would be incredibly grateful.

Unrelated pic

>>93413183
pipermakes

>>93414093
I've looked at their models and I think they're all hazard suit scale(?) and it seems like they'd need to be scaled down a decent amount to line up with crisis suits, and I think that can mess up supports? please correct me if I'm wrong, I'm new to warhammer so just going off of measurements and base sizes I've found on google

>>93414410
You can scale everything up and down as much as you want if the model is detailed enough.
Only presupports might suffer from it, if you support your things yourself, it wont matter because you scale it first, then add the supports.

>>93414993
yeah messing up the presupports is my concern, how much is the tolerance for rescaling and/or how time consuming is it to learn how to support stuff myself?

>>93411133
Thank you kind anon. I'll try it on my next print, unfortunately (or fortunately it depends) I'm almost done with the gallowdark terrain set

>>93411233
Overly tightly leveled plate, wrong settings for your resin or if you've replaced your FEP sheet then that could be too tight if you didn't have a sponge/cap underneath while re-fastening it. (if it's new and you haven't changed this you can disregard this as they never fuck this up)
I'd guess at the plate being too tight. Flint Read method works if you're having trouble with paper or vice versa, just look up a guide on how to do it properly. (loosen screws, z level, hand putting minor pressure on the plate on all sides while tightening)
Also use lychee community resin settings for your resin and print a phrozen XP finder to check it.

I'm almost certain it's either the plate leveling or the resin setting you think is right actually isn't, because I did the exact same thing with my Mono X.

>>93415502
Also could be fucked up models/supports I guess.
Try only printing one and see if it still does it.

>order a fermentation band
>its too long to go around my printer

fuck

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>>93417663
told you to go with the space heater. try to find one with a temp setting.

>>93418686
i do have a space heater, it can do ambient heat but this doesnt transfer enough to the resin itself

>>93418686
plus i managed to get it in place with a bulldog clip

>>93415502
It would be better for the hobby to just start off telling people to level against the actual surface the bed will be sitting on at z=0 when printing, instead of driving traffic to someone's youtube channel

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I really dislike monopose, nonmodular models. They are bad enough normally, but with 3d printing they feel doubly nonsensical, at least for my wargaming purposes. The deal with 3d printing is that it's supposed to be cheaper, faster, with more variety and that I can print as many copies of something I want. Modular minis are great for this, I get essentially an infinite amount of bits in a set from which I can create hundreds or more combinations. Then they are trivial to combine with others, be it in IRL or in Blender.
With monopose mini I can print it once and that's it. What's the point? Yeah that handgunner who already has body, legs, arms and weapon attached may look nice, but I don't feel like printing him again. I would rather buy a set of monopose minis from GW then, at least they will be plastic and I won't need to deal with post processing. Functionally it's still a one copy anyway lol.

>>93419677
I don't understand your complaint

>>93419706
I don't understand why modelers even bother making nonmodular stl minis for wargaming. Feels completely nonsensical and pointless to me.

>>93419753
I still don't understand your complaint. You can repose them in your 3d software of choice or cut the arms and legs in the software off to print separately. Takes like two minutes. It all ends up glued into a static position anyway unless you are magnetising everything. Seriously wtf are you talking about????

>>93419803
I shouldn't need to do this, they could already be prepared like this by the guy who is selling those models. Stl sets like this are worth less than those that were already designed to be modular.

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>>93419706
>>93419803
I think it can be explained with this picture

>>93419830
They don't design most stls like this because people want to print the mini and not have to also assemble it???? Do you have some kind of autistic fetish for gluing legs and arms on or something?

>>93419930
>They don't design most stls like this because people want to print the mini and not have to also assemble it????
Sounds terrible
>Do you have some kind of autistic fetish for gluing legs and arms on or something?
Yes, it's /tg/ after all. It's the main appeal of wargaming.

>>93419946
>3d modellers create stuff purely for 4chins
confirmed autist

>>93410765
The thing is that MMF is not only a store, but also hosts the files and I can download them from my account there whenever and wherever I want. With Etsy, I assume you have to send a Google drive link manually.
Personally I would not buy files on Etsy ever, because both mmf and cults (worse site than mmf) provide better service there. I don't even look for files on Etsy.
Etsy is (in my eyes) strictly for selling/buying actual prints.
MMF might suck for the seller due to fees and whatever, but why should the buyer care? For the buyer, the mmf service is excellent and that's what counts.

>>93415070
>Time-consuming
One click on "auto supports"

But seriously anon, don't bother with thinking about all those things if you don't even have the software nor the printer.
Giving you advise at this point is kinda pointless because you don't know what it even means

>>93419677
For RPG players and for skirmish games it does not matter. But yeah, modularity is king for actual "army" miniatures.

What's your opinion on printing with FDM? I'm interested in printing individual parts I've designed and then sticking them together and doing additional modelling. I'd rather not get a resin printer if I could avoid it, for the usual reasons. I'm not too concerned about the length of time spent printing, and am hoping that by doing individual parts I can orient them so layer lines aren't too visible. I have been 3D printing for quite a long time for engineering projects, so should probably just give it a go and see how it works out.

>>93420517
If you are ok with minis with no ultrafine detail, you'll do well.

>>93420517
If you want pleasing to look at detailed models, you really need a resin printer. FDM layer lines are still very, very visible. Frankly I don't think FDM will ever come close to resin quality.

What are the main reasons for print failures where some objects don’t print but others do, and the bottom layers remain on the fep?

>>93420105
>but why should the buyer care? For the buyer, the mmf service is excellent and that's what counts.
MMF literally just added a 90c "library fee" for any paid orders. Also hope you don't want to download your files from your Tribes at the start of the month because suck shit it's gonna take 3-5 days for payments to process and you'll be lucky if their servers are working by the time your pay finally processed.

MMF is only "excellent" because everything else is so terrible. MMF is also terrible, just less terrible than their competition.

>>93419998
>no one could possibly be interested in multi-part models except one guy on 4chan
We may be autistic but you are retarded

Sorry for asking but I am starting kill team and was wondering if there are folding terrain STLs like Secutor Tactics going around.

>>93422388
>We
Autistim and MPD. Color me unsurprised.
>>93422679
>highlight folding terrain STL with mouse drag and right click
>select search
>5th result
You're welcome

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I've only had my printer for a few weeks, but it's going great so far!

>>93421719
> Also hope you don't want to download your files from your Tribes at the start of the month because suck shit it's gonna take 3-5 days for payments to process and you'll be lucky if their servers are working by the time your pay finally processed.

Literally not true.

>MMF is also terrible, just less terrible than their competition.

Which makes it the best thing available to the buyer. Nothing else matters, and i certainly will not buy files on etsy where i might or might not loose access to that google drive (or never even receive it) whenever the creator wants it.

>>93421719
The thing with etsy and files is that you automatically have to assume that the seller is actually re-selling files he "got" from elsewhere.

>>93397777
That makes sense. Doesn't matter though, I'm just about to build an IPA recycler system.

>>93395701
If you have a local refuse/recycling centre, see if they have a place for dumping domestic chemicals.

If you want the more labour intensive way of processing it yourself:
Let it settle for a week and decant the clear fluid into a new container. The sludge in the old container is mostly diluted photo monomer and pigment. Cure the shit out of it, evaporate off the IPA, put it in some plastic container and throw it in the trash.
As for the liquid you took off earlier: Expose it to UV. A white gel like substance will form on the top/sides (a resin matrix with IPA trapped inside), stir this up to break it up and expose new IPA; a wider shallower container helps here since it allows you to expose more at a time.
Keep doing this until no new gel forms or you get fed up with it, depending on how contaminated your resin is. Let it settle and decant/evaporate the IPA (if you do save it, it can be reused), the silt like sludge can be disposed of as per the previous sludge.

Have any of you tried printing these models from MyMiniFactory? I'd like to hear opinions before trying them.

https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-young-priestess-enirii-the-exalted-281961
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-orsaniah-the-celestial-priestess-272590
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-ervile-the-grim-extremist-inquisitor-310148
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-jarzaben-the-relentless-quester-inquisitor-310145
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-inquisitrix-coralia-t-eriex-outer-reaches-inquisitrix-310144

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Does anyone know if there is a STL similar to this?

>>93428383
you will never be a woman/10

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>>93428400
erm... that IS an stl, even with a watermark where to find it

>>93428624
I've checked the site. They sell STLs, but not this one (at least I haven't found it).

>>93428658
strange. maybe contact them directly and ask?

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I'm using Meshmixer and I'm trying to fuse these two parts together (arm and body). The .stl has a void inbetween them, and I fear the printer will not join them with strength. What should I do?

>>93431029
Toss a primitive in between them, select them both and combine, then export the result (you'll want to take the result and bring it into 3d builder to autorepair). Alternately, you could just slice as normal, then paint out any voids in UVtools (but that sounds like a bigger PITA).

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>>93431353
>Toss a primitive in between them, select them both and combine, then export the resul
That's what I ended up doing. Thanks anon

How does UVTools work? Is it a separate program you have to run your .stl files through?

>>93432025
It's a separate program that you run your sliced files through. it detects resin traps (places where liquid resin is going to get trapped); suction cups (where the print may fail because of suction force); and islands (where un-supported "islands" of solid resin simply appear onto the print, attatched to nothing).