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Work in Progress, "Weekend Update" Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin:
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>Darren Latham's 20 top tips for miniature painting success
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ERXNObqeNb8

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

>Previous Threads:
>>93365845
>>93345597
>>93329462
>>93304016
>>
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>>93385892
I went with this, thanks anon.
>>93387955
I am not getting banned for a cum jar again
>>93387981
Do it, there are a couple recasters for KD stuff
>>
>>93384714
>>93384744
Awww, shucks. Thanks guys.
>>
>>93388138
Thanks Anon, I have IPA I procured for printing that I can use. Soak and toothbrush should work, right?
>>93388203
I will be the first to admit I'm not a good, smart or skilled painter. That said I know plenty in the general are and I'm always willing to take advice from those who give constructive criticism. I appreciate the help and you going the extra mile to show an example of the problem I might be facing, Anon.

The weird GW cult of personality still still amuses me though. People who swear by GW glues or sprays, people who claim GW has magical plastic that is perfect. GW makes decent miniatures, but they've created a cargo cult. Makes me glad I ended up quitting GW games and bought a 3D printer. Although I do shamefully buy some old metal GW stuff on Ebay from third parties.
>>
>>93388288
>there are a couple recasters for KD stuff
yeah I know, I got like 3 kdm minis from forgemylegion that I have yet to paint. This honey bitch didn't catch my eye though, I'm seriously considering getting her just to go with that idea though
>>
>>93388378
Do it then, i wanna see it
>>
>>93388378
This one's available from the shop, no need to go to a recaster. It's also part of one of the Pinups of Death packs if you want a set of them.
https://shop.kingdomdeath.com/products/pinup-honeycomb-weaver
https://shop.kingdomdeath.com/products/pinups-of-death-series-iv
>>
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Another base colours applied, before washes, hope they will work together. I noticed that I always ends up highlighting too much in the end, maybe this time it will be different.

Also, anyone can recommend some easy to work with grey? Each time I try to apply one, I always mess up thinning and get either overthinned or "glopy" effect.
>>
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>>93387287
hmm I'm not an expert but I'd try to make them with GS. Pic related also looks like a funny way to make them. Just burn the rubber a bit to make it look like dripping wax

But honestly any small cilinder thingy can be painted to look like a decent candle, no need to go crazy trying to sculpt the perfect one imo
>>
>>93388420
I was planning to get something on their black friday sale becasue the prices are actually acceptable then. I'll try to remember to get this honey girl, the cum jar feels like a fun challenge actually cause I have no idea how I'd paint that
>>
What's the best color for edge highlighting a strong red? I'm using warpaints fanatic and just going higher up in the red triad system with paler and paler reds but it doesn't look nice.

Should I be using oranges or something?
>>
Bark bark, the veins are easier to see in person.
>>93388467
Darker or lighter? I tend to use a shitload of vallejo dark blue grey.
>>
>>93389051
Even brighter red. I use ttc hespawn red
>>
>>93389051
You should use oranges/ochres as the final, brightest highlights. If you do your whole edge highlighting with straight up orange it will look off, I think
>>
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I've been painting lizardmen using real-life lizards as models - i.e. painting a green skink while looking at a picture of a green anole, etc. It's been rather fun.
But I have a philosophical problem. Is it acceptable to paint my lizards as other kinds of reptiles - i.e. is it ok to paint a crocodileman with the paint scheme of a nice looking six-lined racerunner? Can I paint a skink with the colors of a cool looking iguana or turtle?

The bigger question: Is it morally wrong to paint a unit of skinks based on salamanders, frogs, or other amphibians? I mean look at this guy, he's really cool. But he is not a reptile, and I feel like I'll always know I cheated.
>>
>>93389172
My man just pick whatever colors/schemes you feel look good. This is a creative hobby, go wild. Just try to keep the schemes coherent with each other so the army won't look like a circus when put together. Unless of course that's what you're aiming for
>>
>>93389172
But he looks so cute, and dont you think it would make him happy to have you paint models that look like him?
>>
>>93389172
Well isn't the lizardmen lord a toad?
>>
>>93389190
I'm definitely going for the circus look kek
Masterless lizards from all over that have lost or left their leaders and have joined a coalition following a charismatic fat fucking frog who is evangelizing a radical interpretation of the great plan. Since he's a traveling toad he's picked up followers from all over, thus I get to paint real life lizards from around the world. And also as an excuse to paint a variety of lizards so I can practice different painting techniques, freehand, etc. I'm used to uniformed humans so getting to go wild with colors is fun.
>>
>>93389286
>>93389301
Extremely good points
Thanks anons!
>>
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Did a Hearthguard
>>
>>93389063
Rather lighter. I tested Vallejo "pale grey blue" but wanted something more netural.
>>
How should I go about painting marines like this? Would it look like shite if I just spray a model with white scar and paint the blue on by brush, or should I use Wraith bone? I really don't feel like edge highlighting.
>>
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>>93389722
Just paint it like you would any model. If you're going to spray white and put down blue over it just make sure you're confident matching that white so you can fix any errors. You don't really have to edge highlight
>>
>>93389722
You could shop around for (white scar and ultramarine) recipes that use inks or contrast paints and then just paint them on each half respectively. If you want to be quick about it.
The only thing that is important is that you prime light do the white first. Dark colors cover white very easily, but not the other way around, so you make life easier for yourself that way. Using a flat white will look pretty boring, so you're better off with a light shade of grey so you can highlight/shade that somehow (even a drybrush will look better than bare primer, or like I mentioned one of those light grey inks)

As for the colors you got the option to keep the white cool to harmoize with the blue or go for a warm/cold contrast. Dug up some old studio minis to compare two flavors of white. Up to your taste. If you wanted to do some weathering with browns like the reference keeping the white cool might work better though.
>>
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>>93389890
>Dug up some old studio minis to compare two flavors of white
would be good to attach the image as well of course
>>
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Anyone else fall into the trap of saving characters as "treat" models, but not enjoying painting troops so you end up just not painting at all?
>>
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>>93389426
those are the worst edge highlights I've seen posted here in a while
>>
>>93389930
Painting a character for an army can be a little boring since you are doing the same thing with the same colors, just aiming higher in quality. If you want a real change paint something completely unrelated with different colors, textures, maybe a different genre and scale. Better way to keep things fresh imo.
>>
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Finally based the captain. A ton of ceramite and adamantium angrily stepping on a space bug flesh ought to make some mess in my opinion, so I rolled with it.

>>93389722
>Would it look like shite if I just spray a model with white scar and paint the blue on by brush
That's probably the easiest approach so that's fine if you have faith in the white scar rattlecan. The white base will also help make the blue super bright like in that pic so that's good. Look into some nice blue contrast paint for maximum speed, and maybe weather and panel line the white plates with oils, it's super quick.

>>93389930
Just treat every trooper like a special character (except infernus marines)
>>
>>93389963
I've trouble with motivation if the model can't eventually be a gaming piece. I think that's good advice in general, though.
>>
>>93389953
Kill yourself
>>
>>93389426
Anyone know how I could do a cyberpunkey android face for the units who don't have helmets on? Flesh tones with silver highlights? Not sure
>>
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>>93389051
>What's the best color for edge highlighting a strong red?
Orange. If you don't have one that will fit, mix the red you're using with yellow.
>>
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Ok, I added some color and deeper washes to some p'orcs for the flat guy after initially writing it off, does this look better to you lads
>>
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Also I finally finished the chimera 10 seconds before game night
>>
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More angles, saw I missed a lava spot and I'm not 100% on the lions eyes
>>
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Dragon face
>>
>>93389930
yeah, It's why I switched to skirmish games and made peace with the fact I'll never paint a whole cohesive army
>>
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Starting a big terrain project. I've got so many bits and bobs, it'll be nice to get a bunch built and painted
>>
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>>93390442
The styrofoam piece I'm a bit attached to. It was part of the first terrain I ever built back in the 90s
>>
>>93389051
You got 3 choices. More vibrant red, paler pinkish reds, or orange. Those 3 look the best then it's up to a matter of taste for which you prefer
>>
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>decision paralysis over how many subassemblies to use has halted my progress
>>
>>93388170
The naming convention for mini paints is retarded. I'm using a combination of Absolution Green, Charming Chartreuse, Gravelord Gray, and Murder Scene on some mobs right now.

In honor of that, let's name our own paints in this thread and the color they represent.

Stillborn Slime - Light pink
>>
>>93390166
they might've put it rudely, but they aren't wrong
thing's both thick and flat at the same time; the orange lacks depth and the highlights are massive to the point of just being borders that break the cohesive look of the miniature. It would look better without them and just have natural light and shadow do the work.
Also the blue looks like he woke up from a guy spray painting 1/4th of his armor in Tau Smear as a prank; I cannot even tell what the fuck that is meant to represent but it's incredibly distracting.
>>
>>93389971
Looks great
>>93390374
Really good lava
>>
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>>93390812
That reply wasnt me. I know the highlights are thick lol. Dont get better without highlighting in the first place.

Blue is supposed to be cyberpunk esque shadows. But still learning. Client likes it. This was my first. (Also rough highlights)
>>
Isopropyl only melts certain types of plastic minis, right? Need to strip a lot I was given that is caked in acrylics.
>>
>>93390876
shouldn't do anything to plastics. Might harm resin though.
>>
>>93390876
y u no just do a test piece(s) if you're concerned
>>
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Just kitbashed my Castellan yesterday, I used the Tortuga Bay version of the Praetor with a power axe, the new MK3 arms, a spare heavy bolter from Horus Heresy, and a chain sword from the old MK3 box.
>>
>>93390881
Thank you.
>>93390894
I thought it would be best to ask first. This stuff is 20 years old and I'm not sure how much paint is on it. Some of it is literally entombed in paint. I think some has Testors enamels on it, even?
>>
>>93389866
>>93389890
>>93389971
That's encouraging to hear, thanks everyone. I'll put my attempted Howling Griffons into my paint stripper and wait a day.
My plan was to use rattles of white scar white, but I'm not sure if my Vallejo or army painter equivalent would do well trying to go over any of the blue that I might get over the imaginary line. I suppose I could go Wraith bone, but that adds the work of having to paint the white layer on. I suppose masking tape can handle this, but the two size I bought from tamiya don't stick too well. Maybe they're old? I dunno.
>>
>>93388170
how do I apply grass flocking? Just put glue down and rub the base around like I would for sand/gravel?
>>
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>>93391332
or static grass, if there's a difference I guess
"Static Grass, Warm Green - 2mm Length Fibers"
>>
>>93388288
What's that Soroita doing>
>>
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Decided to be a sick fuck and put a purple wash on orange hair, turns out that just fucking works I guess. I've been doing orange wrong my whole life, makes me wonder what else I can mess with.
>>
>>93391332
>>93391350
That's how I do it but if you're wealthy or an electrician you can get a grass applicator and discover why it's called static grass.
>>
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More terrain and grit before bed
>>
Long shot but does anyone happen to have the imotekh painting guide from elminiaturista? I’m painting one for a friends bday and I’d like to use some of his ideas on the model
>>
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test coftyran done
and slightly touched up test crusader
>>
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So I bought a used, metal mini off Ebay a bit earlier in the month. It's well painted and based, but I want to strip it and repaint it in my army colors for unity. The problem is that it is using some sort of red gritty basin material which is preventing attempts at removing the mini from the base to salvage said base. If it's a just basing material and super glue, do you think IPA will ruin it during the stripping?
>>
>>93392083
pic of the material? you couldnt just saw it off or something?
>>
>>93392171
It's soaking right now. I bent the mini slightly while seeing if I could brute force it from the slotta base, which I could not. The material is I'm guessing aquarium gravel? Rough, almost sharp to the touch.
>>
>>93390769
Black Sheep - an off white that is too bright for midtones but too dark for highlights, so it never gets used.
>>
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>Realize that the shitty new, non-transparent green gauss rods can, with minor tweaking be replaced with proper, transparent green gauss rods.
>Immortals, Tomb Blades, Doomsday Ark and other units can get the transparent green death rods.
Fuck yeah. Time to butcher my army in an attempt to make it look cool!
>>
>>93392186
ahh i see well makes sense then i guess, fingers crossed for ideal results
>>
>>93392299
Thanks Anon. I'm getting hyped at the idea of working on this force. Between stripping, re-priming and painting an entire army and possibly modding most of the units with a small, if fun change I'm hyped right now.
>>
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this knight questor is p much done. I don't play SCE or anything. Think I'll do some blightkings now


>>93392262
i've done this multiple times before but instead of replacing green rods I"m gouging or scraping hairs that got stuck in the paint.
>>
>>93392357
>i've done this multiple times before but instead of replacing green rods I"m gouging or scraping hairs that got stuck in the paint.
This is why I do not paint in my room. Long hair and a fan that is always going means dust and hair regardless of how much I clean. It's a shame. Admittedly, the lack of ventilation for paint/glue fumes is a good deterrent as well. Knocked over an entire, nearly full pot of plastic cement on the rub once and had to open all the windows and evacuate for hours until I stopped getting high from the fumes.
>>
>>93389930
No. I prefer painting troops and just view them as one big model made of separate parts.
>>
>>93390736
The answer is zero.
>>
>>93390874
Shadows aren't just on one part of the model, you have to reverse zenithal them.
>>
>>93392357
Pretty good, suffers from a lack of shading on the macro level, making it a tad noisy.
>>
>>93390874
>client
>>
>>93390374
So tell us how you did the lava.
>>
>>93389930
I used to hate troops but after playing 6mm games I began to enjoy batch painting them. Like >>93392366 says I also just see them as one larger unit now broken up into smaller parts, helps a lot to get armies painted.
>>
>>93392370
That's what I tried with the guy who anon said looked like he got randomly sprayed by a tau
>>
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>>93389722
Yeah, basecoat it white (Corax is quite smooth) and shade with cool blue tones (Russ Grey/Thunderhawk Blue/Dark Reaper if you want the GW approved version like picrel.)
>>
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Trying out a color scheme that would match my evil sunz main army. Should i add/remove something?
>>
>>93392918
Needs a cool tone as a splash
>>
>>93392362
Dust and stray hairs is only an issue for those incapable of cleaning their living spaces. Consider vacuuming your house for once
>>
>>93392918
I kinda like it as is. Don't think it needs a cool tone, it has enough contrast in its values. The yellows could use some stronger highlights.
>>
>>93392918
I like it. I'd personally go for brighter skin to match the vibrancy of your red and yellow but this looks decent too
>>
>>93390908
You could leave plastic models in iso for 30 years and nothing bad would happen. That said alcohol isn't gonna do anything for enamels
>>
>>93390736
Subassemblies are a meme. Unless you're painting at the absolute highest levels and are very comfortable filling gaps mid painting process, subassemblies will just lead to frustration, and gappy models
>>
>>93390374
>>93390399
>>93390385
This sculpt is pretty shit but you did a good job painting it anon
>>
>>93392956
You're supposed to make subassemblies so that you can glue them without gaps anon. For me it's more frustrating knowing there's an unpainted section or having to do literal gymnastics with a brush to paint it.
>>
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>>93389172
Putting in my two cents and suggesting sailfin dragons for your krox
>>
>>93392968
If you can't reach it with your brush it isn't worth stressing over
>>
>>93392976
well I can't do that with my semi autism
>>
>everyone talking sub assemblies
>0 assembled subs.
Cmon guys. I like submarines. Post em.
>>
>>93392968
How does painting in sub assemblies get rid of gaps?

>>93392969
What did nature mean by this
>>
>>93392979
You could if you decided to stop being a bitch and overcomplicating things for no reason
>>
>>93392980
>Submarines
Are they an ultramarines successor?
>>
>>93392976
Wrong
>>
>>93392979
>>93393005
I'd care about the ugly seams on my model more than whether or not his armpits are detailed enough.
>>
>>93393014
Strawman more
>>
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Does a model determine a paint scheme or can a paint scheme improve a model?
>>
>>93393014
again, you can do subassemblies in ways there won't be any seams or at least they won't be visible you fucking clown
>>
>>93392959
Heads are a bit bobble head sized but I think the model itself has more energy to it than most CAD designs today.
>>
>>93393031
Yeah, how?
>>
>>93393087
Are you literaly retarded or just pretending? Have you ever assembled a miniature? Even in dumb fucking space marines the pauldrons will more often than not cover the place where arm and body meet so you could easily paint them seperately and superglue them afterwards if you wanted to.
>>
>>93393111
>Space Marine arms
>gaps
>super glue
fucking hobbylet get out of MY THREAD
>>
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>>93393136
>>
>>93393111
Okay, what about the rest of them?
>>
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How does Milliput Black differ from Standard? Can I mix it with Greenstuff to produce the fabled holy grail of sculpting putties?
>>
I used olive oil to fix frosting. Wiped the minis clean with kitchen towel.

Now what do I do about the smell?
>>
>>93393379
Uh oh stinky
>>
>>93393364
Its just Milliput that's pre colored to be black
>>
>>93393379
Dip in 99% Isopropyl Alcohol to neutralize organic compounds
>>
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God I forgot to check if the katanas on my blademaster boy were too big...
>>
>>93393111
That's not what gap filling means, hobbylet.
>>
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>>93393412
Really? I scoured the internet and found some people saying its more fine. I already have Magic Sculpt soft (which is honestly... Kind of finnicky to work with), so I am not sure I need another super fine kinda putty.
>>
>>93393428
It might have some finer feeling compounds in it to give it the black coloring but according to Milliput its Milliput but colored black so you don't have to paint it, looks like its more repair oriented.
>>
>>93393423
post models
>>
>>93393428
I noticed that white is slightly more fine than normal but o wrall, both can be sanded down to smooth finish with water. And if you add little green stuff to normal Miliput, it ends up smooth without any additional work.
>>
>>93393434
post sub assemblies
>>
>>93393422
Yeah, they're a little small.
>>
>>93391332
>how do I apply grass flocking?
Apply white glue (I don't thin it but some people thin it slightly with water) that dries clear to the miniature base.
With tweezers take some static grass from the static grass container and apply it on top of the white glue.
Tap the back of the miniature base to dislodge the excess static grass back into the container.
This helps the miniature static grass stand up a bit.
And blow on them.
Inevitably there will be some static grass that gets onto your hobby station so be prepared to clean up the mess.
>t. anon who messed up static grass application

If a video tutorial is more your speed then this video has been the most informative one for me:
https://youtu.be/Wvq3HdaUi54?t=219
>>
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Pretty proud of this guy so far, he's just got a skull headdress thing to do next
>>
>>93393491
Pretty good anon!
Only "bad" thing I can say about him is that some of the red paint off the eye is on the nose, but that looks like a goof only a camera highlights and looks easily fixable.
Other than that he's looking great!
>>
Anyone have any experience with these? A few times recently I've seen them recommended as primers.
>>
>>93393672
vaping is gay
>>
>>93393672
>A few times recently I've seen them recommended as primers.

And where would that have been?
>>
>>93393790
Important question, never trust a voice that relies on ad revenue and partnerships.
>>
>>93393790
Some shill on youtube did a paid endorsement most likely. I just hope it's not that bald fuck vince or we're gonna see this every thread for a week
>>
>>93393790
State of Play, MarcoNJM
>>
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>>93388170
How do i make the green energy to look more brighter?
>>
>>93394091
Is it supposed to just be in the recesses, or the whole undersuit? You can try with more, brighter layers to push up the effect, then darken the areas around it.
>>
>>93394145
In the recesses, kind of like power suit energy stuff
>>
>>93394153
So you're better off just leaving the green in the recesses as is, and then use another dark color for the raised areas of the suit.
>>
>>93393790
Lenrics Realm (actually good channel)
>>
>>93391158
>I suppose masking tape can handle this,
don't bother. The surface on an infantry sized model is so small you can get a straight line with a quick brushstroke. Keep the masking tape for vehicles.
>>
Okay, odd question but - why TTC washes smells like almond soap? No other acrylic washes I worked with smells so distinctively.
>>
>>93394272
It's the cyanide
>>
>>93394300
to get rid of brush lickers
>>
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This is the moment I keep screwing up - washes dried, base colors restored, looks okay (at least to naked eye), I think "let's add some highlights" and in the end I make everything too bright. I honestly think this guy could benefit from being darker than usual.
>>
>>93394777
Do the highlight then glaze over it? They should still be there but end up duller
>>
>>93394777
A military/olive green glaze or sepia wash might help, mix with a brown or black wash if needed depending on how dark you want it to be.
>>
>>93394860
Thats actually pretty good idea.

>>93394891
After highlights? Because this one was already washed in black.
>>
Is there any point in using acrylics over oils if you don't need to speed paint armies and just do display pieces?
>>
>>93394922
>After highlights?
Yes, if you want to bring them down and smooth things over. Isn't your problem that highlights are too high?
>>
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I don't want to buy a texture paint just for a single base, but I wanted to try and give the ground under the drains a dirty, greasy green effect. Does this look awful or is it okay? I can always paint/put ground paste over it.
>>
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Lizardposting
>>
>>93394963
how many times do we need to go through this
>>
>>93395197
idk it's my first time here
>>
>>93395132
Looks alright. Probably better if there was less texture there. Maybe slather a bit of superglue on it and paint over that?
>>
What am I looking for in a hobby/desk light? Trying to paint with my regular ceiling lights means I have to sit at weird angles so my face/hand does not cast a shadow

Those lighted arches look cool but they are also $100 and that just seems stupid
>>
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didnt have much time to paint last week but i managed these flagellants
i tried contrast paint with that banner and i have to say that stuff covers pretty nicely
>>
>>93395271
A white led-light on a stand that allows a lot of movement, preferably in bed or ring configuration, so it doesn't cast strong shadows.
>>
>>93395281
Pretty good. A bit glossy, especially the hair.
>>
>>93394272
It's not just washes, the regular paints also have a peculiar smell about them. It's quite pleasant to me desu but I don't know what it is
>>
>>93395301
>LED bulb
I remember hearing, somewhere, that daylight is best

Anyway here is what I am considering so far
https://a.co/d/ds1CKD4
https://a.co/d/2I0Rkhs
https://a.co/d/83U6Nk3


I intend on airbrushing at my table, using a cardboard box, probably with a hole in the top for light, but I have not settled in that yet. All the airbrush booths have short exhausts, which is great, but I don't have a window that close to use
>>
>>93395271
get two (2) ikea tertial and a couple of 6400K lightbulbs compatible with as many lumens as possible
you just saved 70$ and didnt buy stupid hobby(tm) meme shit
>>
>>93395271
I bought something that's called a cosmetic lamp from ali, I think beauticians use it in salons for painting nails or someshit. It's mountable on the edge of your desk, has 3 strength settings and leds for warm and cold light. One of my best hobby purchases ever
>>
>>93392969
Damn why did nobody tell me this creature exists
Would've been a pretty good contender for "favorite animal" questions when I was a kid
>>
>>93395401
Daylight is best because it's white light, as opposed to the slightly yellow light from general house lights. The warmer light those give is nicer to the eyes, but distorts the colors of your paint job. Led is preferable because they generate less heat.
>>
>>93395461
There's way too many awesome animals to pick just one.
>>
>>93395310
thank you, i varnished them few hours ago and had the lamp just above them when i took that picture so they might look little greasy until tomorrow
>>
Does airbrush thinner, cleaner or flow improver go bad? I'm assuming my 5 year old primer and varnishes are dead
>>
>>93395281
Luv me some flagellants. But fix the blank pages and make another set where you mix up the flails a bit
>>
Painting the Tzeentch guys from the wyrdhollow set. Still learning how to paint (both brush and airbrush) but having fun with it. Painted the gnarlwood set before this, but couldn't finish the chaos guys because I disliked the colour scheme I picked for them. Technically the small guy is the 10th mini I painted. So hooray!
>>
>>93395919
Forgot. But how do I prevent these spots when I use my airbrush? I know it's retarded to fuss about, since you can't really see it unless you hold it close, but it's triggering my autism.
>>
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I guess I will never learn how to blend, layer, glaze and highlight since Im still not satisfied, even if I have to call it done.
>>
>>93395937
Make sure your air pressure is dialed in and start spraying off of the model then sweep onto it.
>>
>>93395943
I'm not following your logic.
>>
>>93395992
Thanks!
>>
>>93395943
you could just embrace slapchop Anon
>>
>>93396094
Its just that Im bit frustrated to paint ~70 minis for in 2 years and STILL being unable to pull out good quality paintjob.

Unless Im too critical on myself here.

>>93396171
Never!
>>
>>93396230
Are you actively trying to improve on those techniques? It's not gonna happen automatically. If you are, what's going wrong?
>>
>>93395859
yeah i need to do some crazy scribbles on those pages and on that banner, also touch up those skulls
> make another set where you mix up the flails a bit
im not really a big fan of overly complicated models when it comes to FaBa, more uniform the unit is the more easier it is to play with
i mean in worst case scenario you have to mark where every single model goes to just to get them to rank up and that will slow the game and packing up to a halt
>>
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>>93393491
Hes done now, I think
That zandri dust primer went all dusty on the skull, might have been the weather
>>
>>93396267
I try to get better each mini I do but I don't progress or don't see progress. As for what's going on - it's mostly about too stark transitions (even when doing mixing in few steps rather than A->B->C shades with 50-50 mix steps between) and too thick edge highlights (no matter if I thin much or little and use small or normal size brush).
>>
>>93396632
Glazed transitions are a matter of patience. As for edge highlights, you either have poor brush control or maybe you're loading your brush too much.
>>
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Working on my Last Chancers
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Got a little distracted because I saw a spooky Stormcast conversion and remembered I had these laying around. Should probably give the hammer guy a hood as well, y/n?
>>
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Finally done with them
>>
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>>93396854
With a cousin.
>>
Need inspiration for what to base my Skaventide models, post bases, any type from forest to lava
>>
>>93396854
Well done anon, nice color contrasts.
>>
>>93392959
Thanks lol. It is kind of shitty, but I think it has a certain charm to it. If I ever strip it I think I'll touch up the claws a bit more
>>
>>93397086
i find it weird how so many people tend to hate cork bases and usually at the same time praise citadel crackle base paint to high heavens
>>
>>93388362
Don’t stress buying models you like particularly when you’re getting them from third parties. Being someone who fanatically avoids GW is only fractionally better than being someone who knows nothing else. For cleaning your prints consider ethanol, it’s so much cheaper you will change your process as you can use so much more. Everyone in my printing group has made the switch. We use methylated spirits but I’m unsure what the equivalent in the rest of the world is, it’s ethanol that has been poisoned so it can’t be consumed. If I’m printing something I want extreme fine detail out of I have a container of IPA still that I do a final wash in but that’s probably superstition on my part. Certainly for cleanup the metho does the job without any criticism.
>>
>>93392968
>You're supposed to make subassemblies so that you can glue them without gaps anon.
you are retarded
>>
>>93389051
Does Andy waddle have a video on reds? He talks a lot about how painting reds is his favourite thing to do so he might have some well articulated advice on how to pick. The colour advice you’ve been given is all accurate, they just change the look you get quite significantly.
>>
>>93397529
Thanks for the advice, Anon. I have bought a few GW minis secondhand lately. Feels... odd honestly. Two old metal minis, and one new plastic one since my printer space is still a work in progress. I have heard good things about ethanol, and I'll see how much it costs/where I can get it locally.
>>
>>93389953
They aren’t so noticeable that they jump out. Agree with other anon, kys.
>>
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My IW Warpsmith, Umrek Bahravox, the Iron Tyrant.
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>>93397598
>paintlet still seething
lmao put some effort into your minis next time and you won't have to jump between 2 generals to get any kind of reply to your subpar paintjob
>>
>>93390876
I’ve recently stripped my original tactical marines and iso got nearly everything off, some humbrol enamel metallics withstanding (thankfully their coverage meant the layer was very thin and won’t be noticeable). As mentioned be careful with resin but if they’re that old they’re unlikely to be resin. If they’re metal I’d suggest acetone as it will also remove all the glues etc. it will vaporize the paint and give you something that looks newer than a lot of models coming out of a blister pack used to. It will however turn plastic components into sludge relatively quickly.
>>
>>93397633
Its an OK paintjob at best, the thick highlights kinda ruin it.
>>
>>93397529
>>93397584
i used to buy my isopropanyl from local hardware store until i checked amazon just for the sake of it
now i get 5 liters delivered straight to my door across the world for the same price of one liter i paid before
>>
>>93394090
you can trust Marco. I also use these for priming, never had issues.
>>
>>93397661
>kinda
they're so fucking fat they barely register as highlights
>>
>>93392083
IPA isn’t really effective on superglue, but the basing material may end up with paint clogging it up a bit. If it’s held on with PVA I find that it will break down slower than a lot of paints so I let them soak a bit longer. Do you need to save the base? If it’s an old slotta could you just pin it to a new base? Won’t work for everything particularly if it’s highly dynamic but I’ve done that successfully for a few things.
>>
>>93397624
A bit too heavy on the oil wash for my taste, but looks quite cool otherwise.
>>
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>>93396808
Army painter green stuff is some real shit but I think it was worth it.
>>
>>93396854
>>93396867
I like 'em, very colorful
>>
>>93395281
Something about seeing a fully ranked up unit and movement tray does the soul good.
>>
>>93397676
Interesting, thank you. Any thoughts on the durability?
>>
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I gotta one up Sauron and have 10 Riders in Black.
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>>93397972
thank you and check this out, i just got years worth of base and tray material for few euros
t. not the wooden boxes anon
>>
>>93397661
>>93397633
There are much worse paintjobs in this very thread
>>
>>93398315
Point them out, im curious if mine will make the list
>>
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Couldn't finish him today unfortunately, still got to do the runes and eyes. Plus the base of course. I'm rather happy with how the wood turned out
>>
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>>93398344
also just noticed on the picture that some paint chipped off while I was handling the bug, gotta fix that too
>>
>>93398344
>>93398351
I think he looks great! I don't know if it's the black background but his bow looks very luminous, which I love.

The base looks a bit bare, are you going to add anything?
>>
>>93398327
No there's no need. I just think pretending that anons paintjob is uniquely bad is retarded.

>>93398344
Love this
>>
>>93398372
Yeah the colors really stand out on a black backdrop, love taking pictures that way. I have not done anything with the base yet my man, the brown is just overspray
>>
>>93398394
What's your setup for taking pictures with the black backdrop? Truthfully I just fold a piece of paper to get a white BG, since I know fuck all about pictures but I really think black is better
>>
>>93398461
>>93380771
chinesium lightbox and a piece of black fabric
>>
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First time painting a vehicle, not sure how to go about shading/weathering. I'm thinking I can just put some carroburg crimson on the rivets and the inner edges. Any suggestions?
>>
>cleaning some mold lines
>the rhythm of the little scraping sounds and high level of focus starts to pull me into a trance of sorts
>barely aware of what I'm doing
>scrape, scrape, scrape
>remember sitting on a log chipping away material to add notches on an arrowhead
>return to reality with a start
>models lookin pretty nice too
huh...
>>
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uhh firstborn bros.?
>>
Can i mixs metallic paint with normal paint?
>>
>>93400206
You can, I assume you want to produce tinted metallics? Layering transparent paint over a metallic layer usually gives a better result, mixing into metallic paint dilutes the mica flakes.
>>
>>93399883
Based and ancestral memory pilled.
>>
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Just got an airbrush and i just have a few questions
>Should I use paint specifically for airbrushes if I'm not confident in being able to 1:1 paint & water by eye?
>Can any decent facemask do or are the fat filter ones a must-use to not die of paintlung?
>Are the larger paint cups overkill for someone who won't batch paint more than 10 dudes at a time?
>>
>>93399593
Carroburg crimson might not be contrasting enough against red and you might be better enough with earthshade or black wash.

If you don't feel like edge highlighting, try sponging the edges with dark brown then smaller amounts of steel colors.
>>
>>93400390
Tracking paint to thinner ratio is just a matter of counting drops. It's not tricky.
Masks for spraying water based acrylics need a particulate filter, but if you're going to be spraying anything else you'll need one with particulate+VOC filters.
Yes.
>>
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Got the Kill Team Starterset
Never did any painting before, just assembled all the Krieg Minis and primed them with Chaos Black. Got the Army Painter Speedpaint Most Wanted Kit and a bunch of brushes. I want to try to paint them like this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jk6ocYA1RN0
However, I don't quite understand what he's doing in the beginning, is he dry-brushing three times with different shades of white?
>>
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Painted Belthanos, overall really happy with how he came out. Could fiddle with the wood and metal some more, most of the actual work I did was on the bug. Shamelessly copied a scheme from a pic on the Warhammer community.
>>
>>93400551
Google Zenithal Priming
>>
>>93400551
The summary is that contrast paint (of which army painter speedpaints are a type of) are meant to tint a surface the hue you want. They are not very opaque and so they do not cover well by design. If you painted speed paints straight onto chaos black minis, you could paint until the count come home and it would just look black.

So you need to put some white on the model, so that when you paint over it the white transitions into the color of your speed paint. By drybrushing from grey up to white over the model, that painter is picking out all the interesting bits, so when he applies the speed paint he gets a nice shading automatically.

This technique is called slapchop, you will find tones of great tutorials on youtube. If you are artsy the word is called value sketching. Painting on 'brightness' and then using contrast to change the color.
>>
Been out of the hobby for a while, got back into it thanks to 3d printing. Thought I would give the whole drybrush highlights into contrast paint thing a go since contrast paints weren't really a thing back in the day. WOW bro this shit is easy mode, I almost feel like I'm cheating myself out of the painting experience.
>>
>>93400737
Thanks for the response, I already did some reading up and found slapchop/drybrushing/building up etc. But I don't get why he uses dark blue > Light Grey > light silver drybrushing before doing these white highlights. Does it just build up a gradient? Can i just drybrush some corax white on the primer or should I copy his method?
>>
>>93400747
>gradient
Thats exactly it. I encourage you to try both methods. The gradient will almost certainly look better, the white only will look more stark but maybe you will like that more? Cant say until you try.

Drybrushing is a tricky task that takes a bit of practice to get the hang of. The secret is a balance of moisture. Pure dry, and your paint wont get onto the model. Too wet, and it will just streak like normal paint. I encourage you to practice on your left over sprue. Personally, the only way to tell if you have the right amount of moisture is to try the brush on the back of your thumb to feel the moisture. Once you get better at it you can judge by testing the brush on a piece of plain printer paper, but until then use the back of your hand.

The right amount of moisture will make it feel like you are not doing anything, but over the span of 30 seconds the color will start to show. Basically anything that doesnt streak.

As a new painter, if you suffer from painting paralysis a good tip is to get a metal model off the ebay. Metal models can be stripped with acetone and re-painted as many times as you'd like, so they are great for practicing on for cheap.
>>
>>93400805
Thanks for all the input, I already figured I could use the spruce for testing, but I didn't think of using it for the drybrushing. Like 50% of the kit is alternative guns/arms for the Krieg, what do people usually even do with that plastic? Store it for kitbashing?
>>
>>93399593
Ideal opportunity to learn panel lining with oils.
>>
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>>93400737
>gradient
So I just checked and my brother actually prefers pure white drybrushing for his banshees with pure white I think. I know contrast paints are not very consistent from color to color, so definitely try both. No one is going to notice if you repaint over one dude.
>>
Real quick and dirty test model for a WW2 German, advice/thoughts welcome! The camo is a pain in the butt and I’m not sure I can drybrush highlights well on it so I could paint the smocks just green instead
>>
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>>93400810
I think it depends on the person. I have one friend who throws them all away, drives me up the wall. I on the other end like to work right out of my bits boxes, often starting by clipping out every part from a kit. Seen here are my space marine bits boxes, I have:
>one box dedicated to weapons, all sorted by left and right hands and type
>one box for various armour mark specific peices. >one box for bodies
>one box for terminators
>one box for overflow
I have enough parts in these boxes to easily build 20 models. So when I go to my brothers house for doing hobby hangouts I can just grab them all and go. I love to convert stuff, each of my space marines is a bespoke multi hour conversion, you can see my last one here >>93383976 built from 4 different kits.
>>
>>93397624
Could do with some highlights for contrast. Bit muddy as is.
>>
>>93396808
>>93397899
Great idea, but the heads seem a little too small? Unless that's an aesthetic you want.
>>
>>93398003
I like how the blue highlights from the cloth and the verdigris from the armor pulls them together.
>>
>>93400588
Looks good, love the base. Paper plants?
>>
>>93400861
Don't think you can drybrush that. The model doesn't have much detail to drybrush either. You're better off layering some highlights on.
>>
>>93400933
Yeah, the ones from gamers grass. They're like a thin plastic, pretty sturdy, and don't tear.
>>
Here he is with a bit of a dry brush
>>
How long should a paint and primer stripping IPA bath last for? Days? Weeks? I heard conflicting stories from hobbyist friends, so I'll treat /wip/ as tiebreaker I guess.
>>
>>93400955
>>
>>93400940
Know any good tutorials for that technique? I usually just drybrush
>>
>>93400952
Plastic? Oh cool. I'll try them.
>>
>>93400964
Layering is just putting layers of paint on top of each other, that's the basic technique used today. You can watch some duncan rhodes videos for that, he has a lot of beginner friendly stuff.
>>
>>93400964
Not off the top of my head, but it's pretty simple. You just take a lighter color and paint where the highlights go.
>>
>>93400958
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OqBjt1wKZfc
But in my experience (simple green not iso) scrubbing greatly accelerates the process. Soak 1 day, scrub, soak another day, scrub, will pay off much more than soaking 2 days acid scrubbing twice as long at the end. It’s about exposing new paint to the soak.
>>
>>93401015
>>93401018
How does it not end up looking bad like a base coat without a wash?
>>
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>>93400921
Stormcast are really chunky but the skulls line up perfectly with their facemask helmets.
>>
>>93401087
Because you control how many steps you use in the layering process. Fewer steps saves time but gives rougher transitions.
>>
>>93401092
I guess they always kinda had pinheads.
>>
>>93401087
Because ideally you would mix paint colors and maybe even glaze between steps to smooth transitions over. Also, in the case of edge highlights, you usually want them to stick out from the base so they'd be working as intended, provided they're thin.
>>
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>>93400390
>>Should I use paint specifically for airbrushes if I'm not confident in being able to 1:1 paint & water by eye?
Maybe I'm an idiot, but airbrush specific paint still needs diluted, right, so what's the point? You're getting less paint per bottle, and still have to count drops anyway.
I'd love to hear what other people think.

>Can any decent facemask do or are the fat filter ones a must-use to not die of paintlung?
Your lungs are worth protecting.

>Are the larger paint cups overkill for someone who won't batch paint more than 10 dudes at a time?


>Are the larger paint cups overkill for someone who won't batch paint more than 10 dudes at a time?
Yeah, but the micro ones are too small for backflowing which is good for mixing and cleaning.
>>
>>93401263
Not necessarily, depends on the paint. There’s also primers that don’t need thinning.
>>
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>>93396561
robe and belt look p cool but I don't like the ghetto toe nails


>>93401087
I've been layering a lot lately with cloth and clothing especially.
>basecoat
>apply wash all over or thinly in the recesses (this make take 2 or 3 applications but comes out better)
>mix the basecoat with a little bit of off white or lighter color 70/30 or 60/40
>apply it over the raised areas leaving a little bit of the original basecoat color showing
>do it again but add more off white and paint a smaller area
>>
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>paint line continually releases paints in dribs and drabs
Fuck this. Is Warpaints fanatic any good?
>>
Any good magnifying glass recommend? Age is catching up to me and i can't see shit anymore, bros...
>>
>>93402144
I looked into this recently and found this style is popular. Seemed to work well and come with different magnification lenses. Just search for "Head Mount Magnifier" or the like on amazon.
These ones actually had pics taken through them of sisters of battle sprues.

Gave them up because I get double vision through them which sucks balls, but should be fine if you don't have vision problems like me.
>>
>>93402144
My vision is still perfect, but magnifying glasses are fucking great. Doesn't really matter what you get, I got one on a stand because I hate having things on my face.
>>
why do half of these shits dry matte and the other half glossy, and how am i supposed to know which is which?
>>
>>93402362
>why do half of these shits dry matte and the other half glossy
because different pigments will always behave in different ways
>how am i supposed to know which is which?
by experience
>>
>find a guide to paint something exactly how I want it
>it's incredibly difficult, time consuming and requires painting skills i dont have

gonna kms myself
>>
>>93400955
Doesn't look too bad. Italian camo?
>>
Derpy papercraft Primaris Eradicators. Pew pew
>>
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>>93402427
And derpy papercraft Hellblasters
>>
>>93402418
That's honestly not that complex. Just sit down and give it a try. Don't rush, enjoy the finicky ride. If you blow it, strip the models and try again. Achieve ZEN.
>>
>>93401562
pretty decent layering, the brightest highlights on the orange are too stark though
>>
>>93400390
Ok so first of all you're better off using dedicated thinner preferably with flow improver added instead of water. I personally think in prethinned air paints you're essentially just overpaying for thinner but if you value the comfort they give, go for it.
If you have a fume hood or spray outside you don't even need a mask for working with acrylics
Depends on what you're painting. If you want to basecoat a, say, vehicle then a 5ml cup will be helpful. If all you paint are marine sized dudes then the small one will be more than enough.
>>
>>93402427
>>93402438

Stop calling them derpy dumbass, those are fantastic and you know it.
Be better anon, there have been worse artists proud about worse creations.
>>
>>93402427
>>93402438
CUTE!!!!!
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>>93402553
They're still derpy though, those are not mutually exclusive.
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>>93402446
I guess, I just don’t know how to zenithal or layer, and mixing paints and using medium is something I don’t know how to do really... all I ever do really is base>wash>drybrush and while it has worked for me in the past it’s not serving me well on this time
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>>93402675
Plus I am super ADHD about painting lol, I always want my models to be done ASAP so I can play with them
>>
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I tried layering this guy. first time doing it on a blightking

I made the mistake of not having thin enough layers, so while I like the color I don't like the brush lines. I also want to fix where it bleeds over onto folds and wounds. To fix the brush stroke, do i need to paint over it? should I do a thin all over shade or a precise thin wash to fix the spill-over into the cracks?

ignore the other non-skin colors, I was just playing around and seeing how they look with each other so i'm open to suggestions for all those things.
>>
>>93402687
Aren't there Fallschirmjäger in blue uniforms? Might be misremembering but you could try those or just regular Heer.
>>
>>93402675
>>93402687
Well, youtube is full of tutorials on this stuff, so that's not a big issue. But if you don't care about painting and just want minis on the table, you're gonna have to deal with ugly paint jobs sometimes. If there's not enough detail for the wash and drybrush to pick out, then it'll never really work.
>>
>>93402730
>fix the spill-over into the cracks
I don't know what this means.

You might be able to smooth it out with some glazing, but if the strokes are texture it won't work.
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>>93400810
>what do people usually even do with that plastic? Store it for kitbashing?
Yes. Most of what is still on the sprue I put back on the box and keep on the shelf. That way, should I think, "oh, this lad would look better with a shoulder pauldron from the Death Company or Sanguinary Guard kit!", then all I need to do is pull out that box and see how many of those I still have left.

In other cases - especially for used stuff or old metal pieces - they all go into the organizers in the bitz cabinet. Now that I've labeled all the drawers, it's pretty easy to find what I want in there, too.
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>>93402818
it means that i accidently painted highlights into the areas that I shaded. I basically made a mistake and my highlight bleeds into the shaded folds and crevices a little bit
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>>93402955
A wash would be transparent, so you'd still see it. If you want it actually gone, paint over it.
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>>93402362
Just get a varnish then you don’t have to worry.
>>
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cereal bases
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>>93404365
>basing first
bold move, I like them though
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>>93402955
Shit's fucked, paint over it and reshade. Always do a clean coat of base colors and shades before highlighting the model if you're starting out, it will save you a lot of time fixing mistakes like these and make it less frustrating if it does happen.
>>
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painted an angry woman today, sadly didn't get to finish
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>>93404908
Something's missing.
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>>93405075
I'm gonna glue on the shield and her horsefaced head tomorrow after I'm done cleaning up the ugly spots around the model and painting the axe handle
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Does this look like lightning to you?
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>>93405171
Not really, not enough contrast. Lighting should also have straight, jagged lines, you have 2 curved ones there which makes it look more like a glyph/rune or something
>>
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Attempt at heavily corroded bronze aiming for the extremely dark and verdigris covered look of bronze age artifacts for a heresy blackshield. Im still painting over the arms because i wasnt satisfied with the look of skeleton horde white but i do intend to keep the helmets white
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>>93401015
The issue with Duncans videos is he noob traps you into using only different paints to layer. You really have to mix colors for more inbetween steps to have any semblance of smoothness in your transitions
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>>93405171
>>93405209
I‘ll settle for any kind of intentional looking energy effect.
>>
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>>93405346
whoopsie
>>
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Question for you guys. I'm wanting to do these as tokens for loot for PCs leaving the dungeon and aid in tracking the amount and space of said loot for encumbrance. The question is if I should do some of them as a pile per the actual model, or set them up on smaller bases individually so it's a couple of sacks of coins vs a pile of valuable treasure.
Pic related, some of the pieces in question
>>
>>93405355
Looks better to me now, don't know if it's the lightning/focus thing or did you do some work. You could add a tiny bit of a brighter color to places where the lines meet if you want to go just a little bit further. It would obviously look better if the lines were thinner but it's no big deal
>>
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>>93405416
I brightened up the lines a bit and added more. I suppose a sword would be easier. Fuck it, looks okay at arm‘s length.
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>>93405494
Yeah another bit of an improvement. Good job, anon
>>
I'm going to be painting up some Minotaurs soon as part of a yearly competition my playgroup does. We each assemble a small warband (basically 1 troop, 1 "cool" unit and 1-2 characters) and play out a narrative campaign, points are added for different categories like fulfilling narrative objective, winning games and of course, painting

All that to say, I want to varnish these models, since I will be using them to play but I also don't want to wreck the metallic paint job I am going to spend a long time on with a varnish. How is the Vallejo metal varnish? Does it really hurt the look of metallic paints?
>>
>>93405369
Why would you put them in a pile?
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>>93405515
Matte varnish does fuck with metals, but you could just satin/gloss over them with a brush.
>>
>>93405515
I hate to give it to shittubers but a 1:1 mix of matt and satin varnish gives a decent enough finish to metallics and you can spray that shit over the entire model.
>>
How do I prevent this from happening? It's so hard to control the flow of glue when I'm attaching the crotch.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qYVWVmoevEw
>>
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Can't remember if I put this lady (?) up or not but here she is.
Fat priest and robot to go and it'll all be done.
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>>93405517
The actual model came as such. Also I was thinking of following it for ease of keeping everything together and to mark it as one unit e.g. all commercial items in the pile and it's treated as the parties base supplies stack
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>>93405730
Okay, seems like you have it figured out.
>>
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Bases tomorrow
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>>93405978
What if I just put brown contrast over it?
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>>93405594
>hard to control the flow of glue
For really delicate glue applications, I squeeze some glue out onto my palette paper and apply a portion of it using the tip of a toothpick. Even a small box of cheap wooden toothpicks lasts a really long time.
>>
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Started working on this frustrated son of a gun.
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Finished the guy, gonna move on to doing the base. Thoughts on the "glow" around the runes and eyes?
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>>93406411
The runes are dark in the recesses, so it doesn't look like a glow.. more like patches of green NNM.
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>>93406411
Looks like green metallic trim
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>>93406740
>>93406475
Hmmm I'm not exactly sure what I was going for with this but metallic trim doesn't really fit these guys. You guys think it looks decent or should I just make the actual insides of the runes green and edge highlight them with the bright brown of the wood
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>>93406778
Inside of the runes green to white. Green glow around them.
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>>93406848
yeah I know how to paint plasma glow I just felt going near white in the runes would feel to heavy handed for fantasy
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>>93406411
It would look cooler if the inside bits of these runes weren't black
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>>93407112
>>93406848
aight so the general consensus is the runes should have color/glow inside. I'll do that tomorrow and post results
>>
>>93402736
You might be thinking of Luftwaffe field divisions? They had different kit but only the most autistic uniform nerds would care
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>>93405267
Mixing is a fuckin enormous pain in the ass tho
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>>93407335
>put two blobs of paint next to each other
>mix them in the middle, adding whichever color you want it to be closer to
>paint
how is this a pain in the ass
>>
>>93407335
Only if you have severe color autism
>Noooo I NEED #006699 but I mixed #006698 it's ruined!
>>
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fixed this guys pose like everyone said I should do
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>I should be painting
>I'm not tho
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>>93408239
>should be cleaning
>painting instead
>>
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Anyone here have any advice or plans on building an actual tabletop for 40k? Thought I could make due with two folding tables, but this is jank as hell.
>>
>>93408546
When my local club built a new table recently we just all pitched in for a bunch of lumber and cut/screwed it together, one of the guys is a carpenter so he took charge and got us on the right track.
>>
>>93408590
>need a whole team of tabletop gamers to screw some wood together
the sad state of affairs.
>>
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What do you think about those colors ?
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>>93408671
>carpenter bro teaches the lgs crowd some basic woodworking
very based
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>>93409138
very 90's cartoon
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>>93409138
Nice little bits of purple.
>>
>mdf terrain in store looks cool
>Cheap enough compared to GW terrain
>Unironic actual physical pain to build
>Thumbs sore from forcing shit together
>Several pieces just fucking snapped
>Not even done
No wonder they stopped producing this shit terrain
>>
>>93409190
He-Man baddie vibe or maybe Thundercats
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>>93409301
For the best. lasercut mdf is soulless as fuck.
>>
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>>93408239
Just for that, I picked up my brush tonight!
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>>93409808
>I lead others to a treasure I cannot posses
Good job, anon.
>>
Paint reccs for Luftwaffe feldblau? Ideally citadel as it’s easiest for me to get
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>>93409913
Pic for ref
>>
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>>93409206
>>93409306
>>
>>93409922
Hmmm, if only a company made that exact fucking color
>>
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Put in about 8 hours of work on this today, whatcha think guys?
>>
What's the best way to paint the environment from the kill team starter set? It's just a ton of mixed junk in a scrapyard, should I just color everything silver and apply rust in spots? How do you even paint that rust effect?
>>
>>93410257
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=35UbIvqrbnU
goes over four different methods, all reliable. make sure you include some color too, Orks like color
>>
>>93410245
it's looking pretty disgusting so I think it's working so far
>>
>>93410257
prime black
drybrush metal
paint blue red yellow parts
apply brown wash
sponge on brown on edges
drybrush lighter metal

>>93410208
>>>>>>>vallejo
It’s not even the same color.
>>
>>93410287
>Prime Black
>Paint Yellow Parts
Devilish
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>>93410287
Thanks for the help, I'll pick up some metal colors and a brown wash later then
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>>93410208
Vallejo model colour paints are fuckin awful and I’ve never had a good experience with one
>>
New thread:

>>93410458
>>93410458
>>93410458
>>
>>93410245
Photo is a little unclean, but looks okay. The face is a little noisy.
>>
>>93410245
Castellan green is a shit pot of paint and cannot stand on it's own. You need to push those green highlights up otherwise it looks great.



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