Work in Progress, Late Saturday Night Edition>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin:https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD>WIP Tutorial Images Megahttps://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paintshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s>Paint thinning 102https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI>Darren Latham's 20 top tips for miniature painting successhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ERXNObqeNb8>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginnershttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM>Decal Like a Prohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c>How to Edge Highlighthttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk>How to use contrast style paintshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI>How to Paint with Tremorshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g>I got a call a-late Saturday night, alrighthttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hl_oS9rZVOA>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special wayhttps://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny>Previous Threads:>>93688167>>93675250>>93649600>>93621749
I'm looking for a nice bone paint. How's AK's Ivory or Vampiric flesh? The LGS sells them. If not how about Khaki from Proacryl also sold at the LGS?
Does anyone have any tables for painting schemes? I swear I've seen a RNG table floating around here; you rolled to determine the primary colors and the highlights and the design - quartered, striped, checkerboard, etc. I think it was based on IRL heraldry.
>>93714103Weird that you'd pick Pro Acryl's Khaki for bone instead of y'know.. Ivory but sure any of those will work, just depends on how dark you want your bones.
I don't want to paint any of the fucking models I have. Why am I like this.>>93714107purple.
>>93714229Maybe it's just not a hobby for you? Nothing wrong with that.
>>93714490I'm just tired. y'know?
>>93714107I just use coolors. Love that thing.
Wip biophagus conversion
>>93714229>>93714550It's not a palette or a color scheme, it's designs. Like I said, it was a random table that had a lot of designs lifted from traditional heraldry (bends, quarters, saltires, etc.) that you roll for along with colors and it was an image that got posted somewhere on /tg/. I already dug through the archives for a couple of hours with no luck.
Machine God bless.
Kasrkin are kicking my ass. Are there any secret tricks to better brush control, or do I just suffer until I don't?
>>93713955How do you lads base miniatures? Do you paint the base and then glue your painted models? Or do you glue the unpainted model to a bare base
>>93714503Take meds then?Telling us you don't want to paint won't help. Either paint, or don't. Having a shift in interest and starting a new and different hobby is not a bad thing.
>>93714795Blue-tac to base to layout, separate and then pin and blend, paint both on a handle. Anything I keep base tabs on is mounted from the get-go, as is anything I sculpt a base for.
>>93714795>Glue model to base.>Glue objects like little rocks or rubble to base>Put texture paint around it.>Spray everything with primer >Paint
>>93714608Damn that's clean.
>>93714503Maybe stop spamming threads with shitty AI pics?
>>93714816Pretty ballsy wearing the cumrag to battle.
>>93714995perfectly on brand imo
>>93714608The head looks too small for the bidy
Felt like doing a unit of goblin dudes. Haven't been able to prime them today due to rain. I'll be priming them with wraithbone and then giving them a blueish-green scheme, I think.
I have finished my Heroquest furniture
>>93715323Next onto the actual minis
Realistically speaking, how long should ~18ml bottle of paint last in terms of painted minis? Assuming that said shade is main color. I'm just wondering since Vallejo replaced their old Model Color line and I don't know how stingy should I be with using my remaining old bottles.
>>93715323Just noticed I didn't place the tomb
>>93715323Nostalgic stuff. First played that game when I was 8. That's 31 years ago.
Painted a traitor for my kasrkin kill team today. 9 to go. I couldn't find any chaos transfer sheets so I thought it's a fine day to try freehanding for that DIY heresy feel.Definitely will have to redo the visor. Can't get that Titanium White to play nice.He's kinda grimy aleady, not sure if I should coat him in a wash to up the griminess. Don't have much experience with those.
>>93715810Yes, you absolutely should use a wash on him. A black one for the armor, and, if you have it, light grey for the cloth. If not, black will work there too.And over the metallic parts of course, the gold should be sepia or brown wash.
>>93715810That is pretty much the phase where I slap washes on the Karskin. It will immediately look better after it.
Hey can anyone with vallejo xpress color lizard green paint it over silver metallic and send how it looks
>>93714731I'm excited to see the signal spotlight, I'm glad you liked the idea. Now I don't feel like watching 6hrs of WWII at Sea was such a waste that day!
Ever make spikes out of toothpicks? Anything I should know before incorporating wood into my builds?
First mini since early teens, the character is supposed to be an Asian dwarf oracle of flame.I want the magic to look like a yellowish flame, any idea of how to do that?And also r8 please.
And they're done, I've tried to lose as many of the silly antennas as I can. I think these could have been good looking sculpts if they'd leaned more into the 'fast moving shock troops' vibe and cut the clutter.
Besides Wargame Exclusive, are there other brands or stores for miniatures in Ukraine?Tortuga bay i know, but i could order them via Wargame Exclusive too.Any recasters of note?I'm asking, because i'll drive to Kyiv with my girlfriend to visit her parents in october, and by ordering stuff to their address, and then taking it back home with my car i could avoid all those annoying things like import taxes and shipping cost. Any ideas? pic for interest.
>>93716123>>93716158I've got Agrax Earthshade and Nuln Oil so that should be fine. Are Washes usually diluted before use? Should I add medium, or water?
>>93716927You can use them straight out of the pot, or dilute with either.Maybe use some undiluted nuln oil on that mine your Kasrkin is carrying, and then you see how dark the metal gets. Same with those cable connectors at the gun. Use undiluted agrax and see how it looks, then you can decide if you want to thin it down or not.
almost done with these. just gotta add transfer sheets and gloss varnish the windows
>>93714608That's very very nice
>>93714608Very nice. Add black and a burnt sienna color to round out the lenses. Then finish with a grey/white highlight.
>>93716822Super Clean. The Grenade guy always seems ridiculous, but you equiped him with the land mine...and it makes it plausible.
>>93716822Holy shit the tasteful beakies. What kit did the beaks come from?
>>93717238Lol, I was wondering if anyone would spot the grenadier. Was inspired by this lad but didn't quite want to go that far but maybe could add more...
>>93717324No idea, probably one of the tac squad sprues? They've been in the bits box for years and I'm running through the last few because I don't like the primaris hats as much.
>>93717354That anon's right, the landmine really sells it. It gives me the vibe of a named side-character in a SM novel who rarely talks and is only passively mentioned to be doing something for the first 3/4ths of the book, and when it finally switches to his POV its to reveal that he lined an entire city with ordinance and ends up single-handedly blowing up the 3 extra chaos warbands the big bads called in as backup.
>>93716822Beautiful. What's your grey recipe?
>>93717354The Emperor has promised him 72 Sisters of Battle for his martyrdom
>>93717412I dig it.
Got sidetracked from building dreads for my sharks and put the Primaris Techmarine together. Gave him a scenic base (needs building up where one base meets the other) and resin pauldrons and he's such a nice mini I'm happy with minimal customisation.Then realised I had loads of the old vehicle accessory sprues about, so clipped off all the cog pauldrons and collected some bionics etc and thought I'd give him a bodyguard of apprentices. In list terms I suppose I could run them as a manlet tactical squad.
>>93716822Very nice indeed.
Can I just rip the heads off of second hand marines? Or does the melting-plastic bond make that not so simple
>>93717722Depends whether they used super glue, which will detach a lot easier than poly cement/plastic glue, which fuses plastic (not resin) and probably won't shift.
>>93717722>melting-plastic bondif the builder used plastic cement they're a single piece of plastic now, anon. if they used super glue just freeze your marines for an hour and they'll snap off with minimal force.
>>93717783If you're handy with clippers/snips you might be ok to snip the old heads off and clean the area and file the new head to fit. Watch your fingers though.
>>93717783>>93717796>>93717814Shit, I won't risk it then. AKA thank you for convincing me not to spend more money on plastic
Should I be applying multiple coats of primer to get a consistent finish before moving on to actual color?I have a brush on white primer I'm using for my base rims, and it keeps pooling and being shitty. Will it be better to just get a coat of some kind, then worry about even consistency when I get to the paint?
>>93716998>Fortunate Son in the distance
I got a WizKids resin dragon mini as a gift but the wings are bent at an awkward angle, what's the best way to get them back into shape?
>>93717906There should be as little primer as you can apply. The thinner the better. Unless you're using contrast paints the primer is just there to make the paint stick.>brush on white primer I'm using for my base rimsAre you using a different primer for the top and the rims? If so that's a waste of effort, just coat the whole thing in one and let actual paints take care of the color.
>>93717906I had miserable results with gray brush on primer. I imagine white is even worse.
>>93717980>>93718039I use a white airbrush prime for the model. My bases aren't consistently painted so I want to put a uniform rim on them to finish the model.
>>93718039Liquitex black gesso is actually flawless and I swear by it if I'm not going to rattlecan because of weather or fumes etc.
>>93714795>How do you lads base miniatures?Nowadays, I usually attach the model (or, at least the legs/lower torso) to the base before priming and then paint the base as I go. If I'm using sand/rocks gravel, I basecoat them and work on them as I'm working on the model(s), but if I'm using some kind of texture paint, I save that for pretty close to the end ... although I usually put at least a few coats of Citadel's Steel Legion Drab around the base and base rim along the way.The exceptions are cases where there are weird things going on with the base; a good example would be the Primaris Apothecary model, whose base-topper includes the half-buried body of a fellow marine from which he's just extracted the Progenoid Gland. You could paint the entire base and base-topper separately from the model, as there is a peg hole in the fallen marine's chest that matches the peg on the Apothecary's foot.
>>93718072>uniform rimwhy is this something you can't achieve with paint?
>>93718085I use Vallejo Black primer. Bought it for airbrush but it goes on smooth and perfectly via brush. The only bad part is I'm so use to it I want to use it on new miniatures with skin, sadly.
>>93718176The rims have varying amounts of coverage of primer. Basically whatever overspray go on them.I can certainly just go over it over and over with white until its uniform. Justy wanted to know if the prime coat consistency even mattered.
>>93714795>Do you paint the base and then glue your painted models?Yes. Ideally I'd pin them, but I'm too lazy. Some minis have those push to fit pins for the base though which makes for a slightly stronger bond to the base.>>93716822Did you freehand the emblems?>>93718130This reminds me I had fun painting my apothecary's white armour, was a nice change of pace. Maybe I'll get another apothecary in the future, ideally a terminator. I like terminators
Done for tonight. More decals and first washes to come.
>>93718440this really voids my dragon
>>93718440I can hear that blanket.
>Pick a box of random minis I used for testing Army Painter's Speedpaint 1.0 half a year ago>Slap a coat of Xpress 2.0 on each of them because I want to test a few colours before buying more pots>6-months old Speedpaint fucking activates immediatelyThank God I never used Speedpaint 1.0 on any of my armies.
The enclave of wizards grows stronger with two new additions.I really like how the galaxy robes came out I think the series of different glazes came me the colored black I was looking for
I'm having to redo my dwarves too, I would love some C&C
Shit. I'm going to be in the face collage aren't I..
>>93718901nah
I find it increasingly difficult to not drink the colorful paints. The Tesseract Glow calls to me.
>>93719120If you are going to drink paint, at least treat yourself to some Vallejo Fluorescent Green instead.
I've assembled and undercoated some space skeletons today. Shit post but the thread is so slow might as well
>>93714766the second one. take breaks when it hurts or gets annoying. it'll get easier over time, especially if you're able to paint a little every day
>>93714766I guess good posture and leverage can help keep things steady. use your elbows and lap to your advantage. I sometimes find it helps to even use the fingers that aren't holding the brush as braces when painting
>>93717950Hot water. Put hot water in a bowl or tub, submerge the area that needs to be bent. Slow try to bend it whilst in the hot water. Don't go too quick or it will snap. Do this as many times as you need to get it into the right angle or whatever.
Added grass, moss and dirt to my walls.
Im new to green stuff so I wanna ask before I mix it. Can you maake a simple hat with green stuff and simply stab through it with the Kroots hair spikes or do you need to make the holes for the hair spikes yourself.
>>93720549I don't know what you're trying to do exactly but I would probably sculpt directly on the head.
>>93720600Guess thats true. Will try to looking at some tutorials for sculpting and try that tomorrow.
>>93716822I want to be able to paint space marines to this standard. Do you paint in subassemblies? How many?
Fuck it. Short Primaris.
>>93720841But, why anon?
>>93720883The size of Primaris bothers me. I want my marines to have a mix of armor marks, and Mark 10 armor should fit in scalewise with the Horus Heresy marines. Marines are already tall, I don't need 2-3 guys in a squad to randomly be taller than the rest. Space Marines are Space Marines.tldr; autism
>>93720728NTA but if you want to get good try to do as few subassemblies as possible. Learning to work around a model and what can and cannot be seen once finished helps you get better. And there is also a point where having too many subassemblies gets demoralising.
Fuck it we doin pathfinders now
>>93721040What stage is this at? I think it would look pretty good if you added bright red in the visor lens, and on that little square button on the Ion Rifle. Nice simple accent that wouldn't be over powering. As well as the other greeble on the visor, the tip of the antenna, the spinny disc thing, and the bit under the barrel, being painted silver metallic.
>>93721112These are good suggestions anon, I hope >>93721040follows them
>>93720841absolutely cursed image.
>>93720728Those have nothing to do with it.
>>93720728Sub assembly is just a matter of preference. Would you rather spend your time working at an uncomfortable angle, or sub assembling? It's about the same in the end, as far as I can tell; though, it's still a good idea to paint some models fully assembled to get a better idea of shadows/what's visible like >>93721015 mentioned.
>>93718257Proacryl black and grey primers also brush on very well.
>>93716265It was a great idea! I'm looking forward to finishing that build. I've got the skelle on the bench being painted right now.
Going to be painting the terrain from the kill team starter box, thinking about how to go about priming the larger pieces. Just leave the bottoms primed and unpainted? Paint the bottoms even though it'll get fucked from being moved? The barricades are getting painted the whole way around but an extra layer of primer on the bottoms.
>>93722295I might look into Proacryl if the grey is good. Thanks, Anon. I'm not looking forward to painting skin at all.
>>93720991Thats fair I guess. I like to convert my primaris to other armour marks for the same reason, I want them all the same size. But I also wanted them to be in scale with my other minis.tldr, autism
>>93722395Dark neutral grey primer is a little bit darker than GW plastic and dries matte. Also airbrushes well, it's been my go to for a while.
Man ordering kits on a friday fucking sucks
why
>>93722467Why?
>>93722648Because it feels bad seeing that it hasn't shipped in the days since i've ordered it
>>93722467I ordered miniatures on a Sunday. Misery.
Should I go with Balthasar Gold + Nuln Oil Wash or with Screaming Bell + Agrax Earthshade for my copper piping in a scrap pile for kill team?
>>93713955Finished a warband of mutants for This Is Not A Test.
After a year of other stuff getting in the way, I really want to get the stack of knights models I have built and painted. This is how far I got with this Armiger this weekend. I still need to do his exhaust pipes and top gun, which aren't on.
>>93722418How did you do those rivits you have? Made holes and put in ball-bearings? Can you share any into about what you did?
>>93717906Website has tips for how to brush on primer, says you don't brush, you pounce, second video in list http://embscomputerart.com/miniature-painting-instructional-videos/
>>93715386>>93715339>>93715328>>93715323Expensive collectible set. Nice acquisition. Enjoy every second of it. Heroquest was best game ever.
>>93715335If using wet palette over a white primer should get at least 10 minis out of 1 bottle, i wouldn't use a rare color for basing or priming. You might as well use it, but sparingly, store rare bottle in little mason jar with drop of water inside in case invisible cracks in lid to preserve. Some colors are still available in old sets though. What color you hoarding?
>>93722696Probably bell agrax, copper has duller finish, a little grey or blue here and there may help too, copper corrodes slighty blueish
>>93722890Thats exactly right, steal bearing balls, like the kind they use to make the tips of ballpoint pens. You can get them in huge quantities for not very much.>mark out patter with pencil>poke center marks with pin (this is critically important)>drill out small hole>super glue in bearing ball.Here is an example of what you are looking for. Its nice to have a few sizes. For instance those in the first picture are 0.8mm. The ones in this picture are 0.5mm and 1.2mm. In general I like 0.8mm for marine studs, and 1.0 for terminator studs.https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Bearing-0-5mm-3mm-Stainless-Precision/dp/B07YKR53V2?th=1
>>93722965Thank you anon. I dont know if it was a valid concern, but I always worried if I did that the little balls would eventually pop out on account of the CA glue not being able to stick to the smooth surface of the metalAlso that heresy mark looks amazing
>>93722788Kickass. I really dig the Blemmeye and Mr Worm in the middle. I should dig out my Cannibals and get more work done on them, put 'em away to move and never got them back out.
>>93714103AK's Ivory is great an you should get it either way but I will have a "bone colour" always asociated with old citadel's bleached bone and for that, pale sand is closer colour match
>>93722900So even- aliens can be... autistic. I see. Even when. I am listening to. THIS man prime without. A handle of, some- kind. May I be able to hammer. my brush. on an Anvil to, flatten out. My bristles. Indeed.In all honesty, he's using a grey primer, with extremely minor dabs, and even at what appears to be 4 times speed, it's taking him an eternity to complete the first coat.
What would you do to finnish this up?
>>93723148Panel lining with a dark brown
>>93716808Anyone to give me some pointers?
>>93716808The usual way to paint flame is to go through black, red, orange and yellow but since this is supposed to be a magic flame you don't have to follow that. You could make it white-yellow or green-yellow, for example. Both would work with your other colors. The trick to making it look good is to blend the colors at least somewhat smoothly so I'd look into that.As for the mini I like it a lot, actually. Your shadows and highlights placement is good, it's a neat paintjob and the colors are really nice. You got a bit of a texture on the skin but that can happen with brighter skin tone paints, try working with thinner layers next time. Oh and the metallic parts could use some shading and highlights, they look kinda flat now, I'd also put some highlights on the top of the hood, the loincloth looks a lot richer becuase you introduced a brighter color into it. It's honestly pretty good if you haven't painted in a while though.
>>93723276Thanks for the critique mate. About the texture and the blending, how can I achieve a smoother finish? I thinned my paint, and tried to go for thin smooth coats, but I still ended up with texture, and I don't get how I can achieve smooth transitions. Any ressource recommended?You are right about the hood and the metallics, I shaded and highlighted the metallics last night, and I think I will cut the spell effect to get more space to work on it and on the hood.
>>93723112Yeah he'staking his time. I've watched a lot of his videos including some on youtube and he can complete a full scale oil painting on canvas from sketch to finish in a few hours and acrylic dries much faster so he's probably taking his time to demonstrate the technique.
>>93723148not sure if there's any finland flag transfers, you'll probably have to freehand italso panel lining like the other anon said. those recesses are begging for some dark paint
>>93723510I don't know what is the undercoat/primer you used but for bright colors it's often better to start from mid grey or even bright grey/off white than it is from black. Also it's often better to layer different colors on top of one another instead of doing multiple coats of the same, bright color. Unfortunately some brands like citadel have a tendency to leave texture even if you thin the paint correctly.In all honesty I don't remember the last time I painted a smoke effect like that but the way I'd go about if I wanted it yellow I'd start with a dark/mustard yellow and layer up to white on the most raised parts. There are a couple different ways to get smooth transitions but the one that consistently works best for me is slowly mixing colors and applying REALLY thin, almost glaze-like, layers. Takes a bit of time but the effect is really smooth. If you're not autistic like I am and don't need the result to be smooth even up close you can do less in between steps to speed it up.
First dude for my Mordheim gang, CC welcome
>>93716808>>93723239Looks really good, you'll go far. The trick to yellow is painting over the white transparently and working your way down to the darker tones. Dark tones set the mood like if use a green second color then cyan blue etc, a cooler effect, or orange as the second color and then red for a fiery effect. The reason you don't paint from dark to light for magic is because yellow and most magical colors don't cover well and you want to maximize brightness so you want white underneath any part that you want bright to act as backlighting to show through. You can use magentas or crimsons or even purples or violets to create a contrast between the core bright areas and the areas where the magic has begun to fade or is weak. You can also use black too but that looks a little too much like real smokey fire. You can put your darker and cooler tones near the tips and raised areas of the flame to make it appear the fire fades into the background and just keep the core bright. When done add a few small white highlights to the character where light is hitting and when dry brush transparently some yellow or the object's highlight color that you used mixed with a little yellow to make light from fire hit character at certain spots, you can add a yellow and silver to your gold and apply on the edges of the gold bracelets to give sense of reflection. Overall extremely good painting fren
>>93723611Pic with better lighting but I forgot the gemstones
Oh shit the professional retard is back. Don't mention the new vallejo paint formulation.
>>93720728Yes, depends on the miniature really but I try to assemble as much as I can before painting. These guys usually had one arm and the heads done separately then glued together before the final highlight. For darker colours with a black basecoat you can get away with way fewer subassemblies as the shadowed areas will look fine in black, but for white it's trickier.>>93717432Just Corax White shaded down with blues (Fenris/Thunderhawk/Dark Reaper in GW terms.). Darren Lathams white armour tutorial explains it.>>93718321No, they're custom transfers I had made ages ago with some weathering over the top (Notice the blue doesnt precisely match the rest of the model) . Did used to freehand them but it was a pain in the ass and the colour difference isn't really a deal breaker for me.
>>93723611Leather looks great, nice colors.>>93723276Honestly broken color like your doing is better than smooth blends, it forces a sense of scale because the planes of the object are more clearly delineated. A lot of people struggle with creating it so you're painting looks more advanced already than most people's does. Only where you want to round an object is where you want a smooth blend. It's easy to do. Take the two colors you used to define the side and top of the object or the side and the bottom and mix them together with your brush on a piece of plastic or wet palette type device which can just be a moist sponge with tracing paper laid over it as the mixiny surface and just paint with that mixed color in the area between both...
>>93723148Remove brush strokes
>>93723693...planes you've already defined making a more smooth color transition. That's standard acrylic blending technique often called dry blending. Because acrylic dries quick it works well. More advanced is wet blending where you go back over both areas with original colors and while paint is still moist you mix the two on the character instead on premixing the paint on the palette. You have to work faster because acrylic dries fast and you have to have just the right amount of water and paint because too much water paint breaks and runs all over the model in bad ways, too much paint and it globs on or dries on brush and clogs the flow coming off the brush. There is also loaded brush blending and true dry brush blending. Loaded brush 2 colors are fed onto the brush one near the throat the other the tip you begin with the tip near original color and sweep side to side off loading and spreading the throat and belly of the brush to feed paint as you work towards the second original color. True dry brush blending is a powdery technique using a cheaper brush where a powder or very small amount of very dry broken paint is first fluffed onto and off the brush onto a paper towel and then fluffed over the area you want to use for the transition between the two colors.>>93723614Looks great
>>93723699...But true dry brush blending is mostly done to create powdery effects or to simulate what an airbrush can do like when you want to create a smooth transition on a large flat plane as you might on a robot's side panel or on a military tank. It's seldom used for character painting except maybe around the feet to simulate dirt and usually we use genuine pigment powders to do that but not always. So I'd say master regular blending also called dry blending and skip true dry brush blending for now and then practice wet brush blending.
>>93716855Remember that there is a land border between ukraine and the EU, unlike the Schengen zone. You can still pay for customs at the border for all the shit that you can’t prove you brought into the country. That’s how that one retard paid taxes for the macbook he already owned in Mexico.
>>93723148A darker green in the lines of the vehicle. Add a little water to the paint, brush it in and immediately wipe off surface with light touch with slightly moist sponge to leave it only in the lines and not on the surface of the vehicle. Thats a good beginner's technique for what we call pinwashing.
Something seems wrong with my airbrush. It seems to be taking more pressure to get the same flow that it used to. I've cleaned the nozzle like 5 times and it hasn't helped. Could there be a blockage in the air valve maybe?
>>93722860Purple looking nice.
>>93723730So anon should make sure when he gets the items he does a quick put together of some of them (bring glue) and say they were his project for when he was bored.
Is a fineliner fine for eyepainting and freehanding decals, or should I look into something special for mini painting?
>>93720530Gave this a go, I got the wings into a better position and cooled them down again to set in cold water, but when I left the model to one side the wings have partly bent themselves back towards where they were
I have no idea, what I'm doing but this actually doesn't look bad if you're squinting a bit
What's the best paper for wet palettes? The brand stuff probably is, but I think they overcharge quite a bit on us. I use baking paper right now but people say that it dries the paint more than it should.
I'll probably cop shit for this but are there any decent plastic free alternatives to greenstuff/epoxy putty?
>>93724288fimo air dry, clay, das?i wouldn't expect any of thoe to hold as much detail (maybe a good clay) as gs or even stick to plastic very well
I'm working on this wizard as a gift for somebody. She said she likes pastel blue and yellow and I luckily had these two colors. my issue is that I don't know how to shade them. These colors are really bright and kind of delicate so everything I've tried sticks out like a sore thumb. Can somebody give some suggestions or tips? I'm going with a reddish brown hair color and maybe green with for the jewel on the wand.>>93724261unironically baking paper, but the paper that came with my army painter wet palette is fine if you REALLY want to pay extra>>93724288crayola model magic
>>93724359>but the paper that came with my army painter wet palette is fine if you REALLY want to pay extraFuck that. I didnt even pay $15 for a sta-wet. The only reason I have a proper wet palette intead of some hood contraption is because the chinks sold me one for cheaper than I could get a properly sized tupperware.
>>93724261The cheapest brand tracing paper works great, the shit you get at walmart. Double your layer for low moisture, single layer for high moisture, your welcome.
>>93724288Not really, green stuff is an epoxy so has plasticizers and artificial chemicals and solvents, it's a chemical air hardening plastic resin, but there are other choices, playdoh but it cracks as it dries needs to be patched, sculpty and fimo is plastic pvc has to be baked, there are some air hardening clays for making pots but I don't know much about their chemistry, i assume they are part linseed oil, there is salt flour dough you can make with salt and flour and bake, it shrinks and cracks but is good for making things like Christmas ornaments to paint, recipes online, will last forever if you don't drop them after done. Mixtures of wood glue and fine saw dust or sand will work for repairs but gritty, most white glues can resoften with water. Plaster will work easy to paint can be molded or cast but shrinks a little and is powdery and brittle, but makes great ornaments or scenery and can be sanded, a thick mixture can be sculpted like a dough, I recommend beginner painters start with cheap store bought plaster ornaments instead of gaming miniatures because they don't need to be primed and have less detail and are cheaper can get any walmart or hobby store, mixture of superglue and baking soda makes super hard glue you can use to patch holes. A little linseed oil with baking soda will make a paste that can be shaped to fill gaps that will harden very slowly over peroid of weeks. Oil based clays like chevant never harden but are great for good detail sculpts coming in different hardnesses and if you avoid sulphur versions can be used to make silicon molds from which plaster or resin casts can be made. But generally green stuff is the way to go, the white stuff miliputt some people have more of a reaction too so green stuff is better for most people
>>93724359Easy. Pastel means chalk right? Your base colors are like chalk. They have color and white chalk color right? So how do you shade chalk? With more chalk. There is no shadow in pastel. Only highlights. MOAR CHALK! Yes, mix moar white to the color you already mixed up and add your highlights. There you go. Done. If you do shadows at all it's just the same color as what you mixed before with LESS white than you used. See? White is your ONLY shading color when doing pastels, just moar or lezz. That's it. Looks good so far by the way. Now here's another tip. To remain chalkish do not add stark highlights. Chalk doesn't have bright point. It's soft transitions the whole way. Powdery. Think powdery. Dry brush technique will work fine to create a powdery appearance working towards the highlight or just really smooth transitions. Use a matte varnish when done. Pastel mini all finished. Kiss my chalk. Oh and pro tip... use actual pastel chalk. Get soft pastels, not the hard kind (or crush up the hard kind to make the soft kind) from art store, a good brand, variety colors, and rub soft fuzzy brush on them and do your highlights. Spray varnish from distance to seal, white chalk will always dull a bit when varnished so you might have to retouch and revarnish. But this is advanced stuff. I'm not sure you are ready for MOAR CHALK! ;)
>>93724240actually it looks really gud fren. Keep going. Nice colors.>>93723838Depends on how fine. Generally brushes you can get at a regular art supply store work fine, but you have to consider a few elements. The length of the hair and the amount of snap. Liner brushes are also called rigging brushes or riggers in the oil painting world. They were used to make the rope rigging on the boats on sea scape paintings. They were for making somewhat straight thin lines so they have long hairs that could be laid down almost flat to act as a guide for making the line more straight and so they could hold moar paint. The acrylic version has a lot of snap returning to a straight shape quickly. When we do detail work often our acrylic paint is slightly watered down, not enough to bleed or run, but enough to flow quickly off the brush so small motions can be captured. If the brush snaps back into shape too quickly it can flick the paint off the brush onto the model someway we don't want and if the brush has no snapback we can't get a good tip to do fine work with, so you don't want too much snapback, but you want just enough. So any "detail" brush will work honestly including a liner brush or rigger brush, but be very aware of how much pressure you are using so it doesn't bend at all. You do this by just using the very tip even though the rest of the brush has water in it to create pressure to help the paint on the tip flow off the brush. If you try to use other parts of the brush if will bend and start building pressure that will want it to snap back into shape when you finish the stroke. The shorter the hairs the less it will do this and the softer the hairs the less it will do this. Most synthetic brushes are easy to clean and work with harsh solvents but have more snapback, natural hair brushes are softer but you have to rinse them after every stroke and use mild soaps and conditioners on them to keep them in top shape and they react...
...badly to harsh solvents. So we collect a variety of brushes for different purposes. In general our standard brush is something like a winsor and newton series 7 natural hair size 3 which has a bit of a belly and a good tip, but for the finest detail work we may go down to a size 2 or even 1. But synthetic brushes are different. With those we might start with a size 2 or 1 and go down to a size 0, 00, or even 000. You'll notice smaller sized brushes aren't just smaller around, but also shorter haired with the exception of liner/rigger brushes which are long haired all the time. This presents a problem in acrylic painting because acrylic dries very fast so as we go down in size our brush holds less water and the paint dries faster (almost instantly) with the finest brushes so there's a limit on how small is useful. Having longer haired sharp tipped brushes overcomes this to some degree as does having a larger belly for the brush, but the larger the belly the easier it is to accidentally hit a part of your model unintentionally and the more water the brush holds so the greater the forward pressure becomes from the water releasing the paint more quickly, so liner brushes solve those problems for us. When we need to get into a distant space, have enough water but very little water pressure they are perfect, but they do snap back if synthetic so watch out for that. Brushes that snap back a lot not only flick paint but they require you to move more of your arm instead of your fingers to keep the tip where you want it and here's the worse part... they can lift layers of paint especially the one you are currently laying down or the previous one that's still soft. If that's happening wait till layer dries and apply a good hardening varnish layer before continuing, but honestly switch to a softer brush with less snap back as the solution. This means liner brushes especially synthetic have a limitation. They aren't great for laying down paint. They are for details.
>>93722696Get a different copper paint or if you really want gw go with hashut copper instead. Screaming bell is so stupidly orange it barely reads as copper
You face the flat part of the sprue clippers against the mini, right? The other way doesn't fit but I accidentally winged a few pieces and wanna make sure I'm not (too) retarded.
>>93726683The actual best way is to cut leaving some of the sprue bit attached and cleaning it up with a hobby knife and a file. Touching the mini with the cutters might leave some marks even if holding it flat side towards the mini.
Noob and part time retard here, what are all these mats I see everyone using for? What do they do for painting minis and how necesssry would you say they are? Ones like in >>93715323>>93715314 >>93719817Etc.
>>93726774It's just a workspace to protect your table. Protecting from paint and glue is 100% necessary, and you could ding the table with a file or knife too.
>>93724359>crayola model magic
>>93723612>>93723693Thanks you for all your kind support and advice! I'll try to finish the little stunty tomorrow night. Then I'll move on to a wizard of sorts
>>93726774I use a piece of cardboard myself. You don't really need to buy a mat specifically for that. You will just get some extra adherence I guess.
>>93726915They're for cutting rather than painting. They're "self-healing", so small nicks and jabs with a hobby knife seal themselves up.
>>93726986Bro if you're so unwieldy with a knife that you nick through a piece of cardboard I'm worried about your fingers.
>>93726683Heh, that guy looks like my sternguard veteran sergeant.
Help. Lads I don't think the blue swirls look "magicy" enough. Am I nitpicking myself or does it look like shit?
>>93727198it looks fine, but boring
Enough hiding behind masks. I'm gonna paint a face. Pray for me.
>>93727198They dont look like they should. Low saturation and uniform color. Inks and glazing would make it look great but sounds like a nightmare to work with them in those swirls. Maybe with a liquid mask.
>>93727013>nick through a piece of cardboard. Do you not cut things that require straight lines and a bit of pressure to cut cleanly through? If you don't then cardboard works perfectly fine. >>93726774If you are planning on doing anything more than painting or cleaning minatures up you can use cardboard or newspapers to keep your workspace clean but those mats are necessary if you are going to be cutting into things. Unless you don't care about your table surface.
>>93722996thanks anon, they're a cheap dnd troll mini and a weird mindflayer respectively. I loved experimenting with these.hope finish your dudes and they eat well
I finished up the crusader lady, bit happier with using black as the main cloak color
>>93719120>anon 2 seconds after drinking the forbidden glow
Thx to the anon that suggested a different color for the cross guard, it worked pretty well. Love some C&C
>>93726774They’re called self healing mats, you can get them at hobby stores as well as sewing stores.
>>93727278>Do you not cut things that require straight lines and a bit of pressure to cut cleanly through?All the time, mainly supports and sprue bits. Although I admittedly don't kitbash so cutting thick pieces of plastic is not something that I do regularly.
>>93713955Anyone have a good recommendation for a pair of safety gloves? I've cut myself on accident occasionally while working on conversions before, but not that badly until now (I don't know how deep it pricked me but this is probably the worst it felt that i can recall) and I'm worried about the potential of it all starting to add up.
>>93727198It just looks like painted carvings, are you trying to make it glow? Glow effects are essentially a bright-to-dark gradient from the source radiating outwards with a midtone to dark overlay gradient stretching out from the glowing object, for your golem I'd fill in the grooves with white, lightly drybrush around them with blue, and use a contrast-like blue on the grooves to fill in the glow gradient for you.
>>93727400Gloves that protect against scalpel blades will take away the dexterity of your fingers. There are flexible anti cutting gloves, that you use when working with glas for example, but the really soft ones will not stop a scalpel blade, and the thick rubbery ones that are really strong will make it next to impossible to build a model.
would you say it's worth priming the entire plasma gun+arms white just to make the glowy bits easier?
>>93727422>Gloves that protect against scalpel blades will take away the dexterity of your fingersthis is purely required for the act of hacking up parts of models that I plan to re-fit together somehow; I just need to protect myself while i'm cutting the parts off. When the time comes to actually assemble it all I won't need the knife anymore so I can just take the gloves off.One of my fingers has a couple of scars so I am starting to get concerned. I'd rather have a bit of stiffness while working the knife than potentially fuck up my ability to hobby at all.
>>937274003m gloves
>>93727424Nah. Slap in titanium white on the glowy bits. That's how I plan to do mine next week. I'm thinking of doing subassemblies for the guns, though.
been experimenting with easy armor color schemes for Risen Dark Angels. Dry brushing for ease of testing but still not sure. Maybe a thinned Ratling grime now to deep the darkest colors here? Liking the mk6 assault marine the most.
>>93727400Your blade is too dull and you're putting too much force into your cuts.
>>93727649You got an airbrush?
>>93727684Not yet. might risk the $50 like battery powered one on amazon ppl have been recommending. Would get rid of the grainy look from dry brushing but mainly wanted to test. Was Black primed, Incubi/PA Dark Jade, dry brush sybarite, drybrush half Sybarite half PA blue white
It's not good, but I'm having fun with an illegal number of traitor commissars then Imperial Dogma allows (Which is 0)
>>93727724If you look up the cult of paint video on 30k Dark angels they ahve a great scheme its what i use. Pic related. Base chaos blackAirbrush all over with Coal black from reaper paint this should be corax blackSpot airbrush highlights in Misty white reaper paint, should just be any sort of white paintThen Airbrush a mix of Black templare:Dark angels green contrast paints at 6:1then mix that mix with water at a ratio of 3:13 drops of water for 1 drop of that mix.Then slowly airbrush over the white, might have to go over it a few times to make a nice good colorThen paint the red, and the silverWash your silver in a black oil washThen once dry, oil wash just in the cracks with Burn umbra.
>>93717980Does a consistent coat not matter for primer then? I can see primer all over the model I brushed it into but it's a little thin.
>>93727797It wont matter to much, because unless you are under coating it will be fine. Typically what i do, is i will prime a model with say rattle can chaos black right? does not matter, i then go back in and undercoat my entire model with Coal black from Reaper paint because i like taht as a color i then use the ability to control how much paint i put onto the model to get all the hard to reach spots too.
Lil Weasel ready to necromancer their way to town
>>93728156And another rat pirate.A piRat if you would.
>>93723781Not sure if you figured it out but I was losing my mind over something like that some time ago and it turned out I mixed up the nozzles of different needles. If you have more than one for your airbrush check if that's not the case for you
>>93727797Rattlecan sticks well enough that it won't be an issue.Brush primer doesn't have as strong a bond, I would do two coats just for adhesion if you can see the first coat.I primed a metal mini with vallejo surface primer, it was too thin and eventually came off the raised points before I was even done painting it. Same metal and primer had no problems when I applied it properly.
>>93728156>>93728169These are great! I always love when these guys pop up, even if they don't get talked about sometimes. I think your fur is getting a bit better, and they're a bit more expressive than previous ones.If I'm getting ready to sculpt a wizard with an eyeball head, do you have tips for making a good sphere of putty?
>>93728169Have you ever seen the grimrock pirate rats? Similar comfy vibes from this guy
>>93728406>grimrock pirate ratsoh my god you just reminded me i haven't touched that videogame since i got a computer that isn't tape together and can run stuff!I need to get back and play through it. First one was a great game. Thank you!>>93728388Thank you! Even if little, any improvement feels nice in my opinion. >If I'm getting ready to sculpt a wizard with an eyeball head, do you have tips for making a good sphere of putty?My only real suggestion would be to not make it out of putty but rather something like polymeric clay (sculpey, fimo) since it's not as squishy as greenstuff/milliput etc. Just roll it like you would a small meatball between your hands (even if it's really small) and bake it. You can then sand it to remove any finger prints by doing the same thing and keeping sandpaper on your palms (be careful with that). Then you just pin it on armor or the model and sculpt around it.
>>93726774Like other anon said, any cut on them kind of closes on its own, which is neat.
>>93728406>grimrockYou think he meant gridlock?
>>93722978You're welcome, and thanks! I don't think to worry about them going anywhere, especially once you have sealed the model in a layer of paint. While you are doing it one or two might fall out while you are working on them, but in my experience those that will come loose come loose quickly.
>>93727677i just changed the blade outthat is how i normally cut myself though, i've gotten better about working with it while it's dull so it hasn't happened in a while thankfully
>>93728559Aw sweet, thank you for the tip. There's lots of mods for both games now too that are a lot of fun
>>93724240in fact that looks pretty damn good>>93727198give the swirls a lighter center. Also some stippling with greens for moss might look nice>>93727256dear nuln oil who art spilling out of your pot,please make anon paint good faces.But not so good that it makes me feel inadequate in the end.K thx bye, cya later
TIL that if paint thinner touches primer it turns into the most horrible sticky goo that I hope I can scrub off cause I only got 1 of that kind of bit.
>>93726774Called cutting mats or self healing cutting mats etc. Helps measure paper or board you want to cut. Protects table. In other words they are good for nothing except protecting your furniture when cutting against the table. I am reckless and uncaring so I have no use for them. They can double as game mats though. Most games use a one inch square spacing so you could set up some scenery and play on them. But personally I find them offensive. I will destroy my furniture and laugh about it for I am evil! Muhahaha
>>93726873Looks good fren>>93727318Ready for battle! >>93727400Go to craft store or online store, order quilting safety gloves, they protect against round cutter blades the ladies use when cutting squares on those blasted self healing cutting mats. But Klutz brand gloves are best my mom says from joanns or amazon or hobby lobby. But you only get one in a pack so order two. But if you learn how to use a knife correctly you'll probably never cut yourself. But also wear safety goggles if you are a little untrained with knives. I'll make a knife handleing video someday that should help, but no time now.
Newfag here, I ordered a few metallic 40k minis (namely sisters and some dark angels characters) is there anything different in the model prep and painting phase compared standard plastic that I should know? Or any tips in general.
>>93729287>Or any tips in general.Properly applied to plastic models, most paints that one would use as a primer bond really well with the plastic. It's not going to be like that with metal models; even the best primers are really only resting on top of the metal's surface. You can expect the paint to chip easier if you mishandle or drop your painted metal models.Be serious about putting a protective coat of varnish/'Ardcoat/sealant over them when you're done.
Made some progress on another Necron. Did the body yet another way and I think I like this result the most. Which is kind of funny because it's just thinned black templar brushed over the metallic paint with reestablished edge highlights. Now I feel like a retard for trying to reinvent the wheel, oh well
>>93729519Love that matt black armor looks
>>93729287If lead avoid washing or sanding in sink, use hose outside, if pewter just avoid doing directly over dishes but I still take outside. Guide, wash minis with soft toothbrush and dish soap with hose and rinse really well. Clean up mold lines with needle files or sandpaper, if lead wear gloves while filing or sanding and keep model wet to reduce dust, do outside. If pewter just wipe down with old sponge to keep moist and put down paper if you file orvsand inside and throw paper and sponge away when done. Dry metal files and apply mineral oil to stop rust or just use sandpaper instead. Be careful with thin parts, metal bends and breaks easily especially lead which is soft. When clean and dry prime model as usual with good spray primer, 3 very light coats from multiple directions and paint as normal. Once primed lead figures are generally safe to handle. If no primer the lead will oxidize and figure will turn white in years to come, called lead rot. No cure except stripping paint and repainting. After done painting seal model with spray varnish to reduce risk of lead rot. Matte, satin, gloss, semigloss all fine. Acrylic or polyurethane is fine. Generally we regard polyurethane varnishes superior protection against lead rot but risk is minimal if you paint as we normally do with a good priming layer and final varnish.
>>93729339Appreciate the heads up, I've also heard that I should wash the metal models with some soap and water before painting as well. Would it be wise to flat coat the primer after it's applied further sealing it in, or is that just wasteful?
>>93729569You can flat coat at any time and that will seal better but make sure you don't use gloss of course or layer adhesion will be poor. See guide above. >>93729564
>>93729564>>93729590Just saw these after I had made that post, I'll screencap all your tips and look them over again when my minis arrive.Here's my WIP contribution, trying to figure out some color schemes for these skaventide stormcast. Need to do a bunch of touch ups, a few more coats on the weapons, and try my hand at edge highlights.
>>93729681Looks good. Natural color scheme is nice
>>93729519Looks yummy licorice
>>93729287Starting the hobby straight with metals?>>93729519Yeah its a nifty little trick, painting a piece metallic and applying a thin transparent layer over it. You can do that to achieve something akin to colored metallics as well.>>93729681Silver + red looks weird imo. I really like the silver + blue alternative color scheme that they have. Probably some color theory explanation as to why it's like that.
>>93729532I went for a glossy finish on previous dudes and it was pretty cool too. I might coat him in satin/gloss just to see what effect I'll get>>93729814I hated those sweets as a kid man>>93729836I've tried it before I was just testing different approaches. Think I'm gonna stick with this one though, I originally hoped to get a tmm-ish effect but I guess black is too strong cause it just ends up covering almost all the highlights I did beforehand. Only other way I can think of is mixing it straight into the metallics but I'm not sure if I want to test another method
>>93723919Yeah that will happen, it is why you sort of need to do it multiple times. And also leave the part in hot water longer. Don't cool it in cold water though, just let it cool down naturally.
I've started on my deco armoured car. I think I've got the decorations right without going too over the top. Fortunately the wheels still work so I can pretend my bed is the the surface of some barren moon>>93722788Soul embodied. Did you make these or are they a kit?>>93728156>>93728169I saw these last thread, but it was archived before I could reply. Fantastic work anon. How did you get so nifty at green stuff? Any tips?
>>93730077Here's the front
>>93729287I have a lot of pewter models, the biggest thing is they're so much harder to kitbash, and large multipart models can require pinning, in which case which you will really want a power tool. Superglue works decently well on smaller though desu, it's sufficient for basing.Priming is a concern. Non-issue if you use rattlecans. If you don't, it sounds crazy but picrel is actually one of the better things I've primed with. Not that crazy considering it's one of the only acrylic paints out there intended to adhere to metal. You can airbrush it too, look it up on youtube.Vallejo's primer is ok too, and I haven't tried Badger's but I've heard good things about it.Finally, always varnish.>>93729564Is non-lead white metal more hazardous than I thought? I'm cautious with metal powder because I'm not retarded but I figured it was as inert as iron filings.
>>93729836Nah, not starting with metal. I've only painted roughly 4 models, 3 of which are WIPS, one that you just saw, the Stormcast. The metal minis were just something I wanted because the retro aesthetic looked appealing. Here's a rather shitty collage of my first mini, an Ultramarine, and my second mini, a Dak Angel. The Dark Angel was my first attempt at greenstuffing some robes/loincloth. Unfortunately had to take like a year and some change break from the hobby so my DA project was shelved for awhile. Plan to get back to it after I paint this Stormcast spearhead.
>>93729287Yeah, my advice is to get familiar with surface prep (this is extremely important) and do some sacrificial paintjobs so you can find out how what you have on hand works with metal as opposed to plastic. For primer, basically anything that isn't a brush-on or airbrushed water/alcohol based acrylic (those will literally rub off when you touch them even with a day+ of curing time) will work fine so long as you let it cure properly. Personally for metal models I prefer to use airbrushed lacquer-based primers like Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 or Alclad because they produce an outstanding finish. The downside to this is that since you need to use lacquer thinner or acetone or something similarly harsh to effectively remove lacquer-based paints any GS or plastic or CA glue on the model will melt. The glue isn't much of an issue but the other stuff might be.
The Dragon has progressed at a very satisfactory rate. Discovering the plastic glue worked on a ton of other stuff I had lying around had made this ten times more fun to work on than it would’ve been otherwise; I’ve gotten to use a bunch of things I’ve wanted to add to something at one point or another on it and it’s really taking shape now. I might honestly try to find a way to use it in my army even instead of just a potential BFG fleet.
>>93730077I made them from a bunch of stuff. Some are nolzur's miniatures with a few edits (the big mothan, the xorn, the leech headed guy), the leader (the big head fucker) is a dreamblade mini, others are stargrave scavengers, historicals with greenstuff additions (the split mouthed guy is a celtic fanatic), a few are EM4 orcs with bits tacked on, the 4 armed fucker is a mageknight mini, etc. I had a lot of fun with it. I almost want to make more but I DO NOT NEED MORE and Im sick of them lol.
>>93731290>>93730077>>93730086also cool car
Im painting my first models and for the second day I've gotten ridiculously high from Citadel Glue.Im doing something very wrong because I feel all fucked up. Don't think this hobby is for me If I have to kill brain cells every time I make a mini. The first day was so bad I glued 7/10 of my kill team outside and I still feel fucked up hours later.
>>93713955Anyone have a good method for making rope tied around a pole for terrain? Only thing I can think of is some twine soaked in super glue. Sewing thread looks too small but twine may look too large but I don't have twine to test that out
>>93731498Twine actually does work and it comes in different thicknesses, just make sure you buy some that's at the correct scale for whatever you're doing.
>>93727649You are trying to make a transition from dark to light too quickly. Mix yourself a tone inbetween to drybrush that first.
Won a wood elves battalion box on eBay, I want to do a cherry blossom style wood elves army. How can I paint them?
>>93731837Get a photo of cherry blossoms, look at the colours, find some paints that are roughly the same colours, put those paints on the models with a brush
>>93728169My wife always looks forward to seeing your stuff, love them.
>>93731423Are you leaving the glue open and are you hunched over it? No reason you should be getting a contact headache if you're outside. Try assembling in batches. So for these guys like snip out and clean the legs and torso, glue them and close the glue, set it aside to dry while you repeat with the other parts. Glue is open when you have something ready to go, and you get a break to let fumes dissipate while you clean up the next pieces.
>>93731423Sorry to hear that you are having some adverse reaction. But if you still are interested, know that you can use superglue just fine for any model. Maybe you can also try a different brand of plastic glue? I do think I remember the citadel stuff having a rather strong smell. Try testors out, the stuff of theirs that I have is much less pungent than for instance tamiya extra thin is.Gorilla glue with the blue bottle cap is the best superglue, you can find it at almost any hardware store.
hopefully this is enough air support for whoever needs it
As much as I love pretty much all mr hobby, this stuff SUCKS. Seeps everywhere, corrosive as fuck to plastic. Also tamiya extra thin can be quite disastrous. That stuff can fuck up minis very easily if used carelessly. >inb4 skill issueFor me, it’s Revell Contacta. Never any issue ever.
>>93732411>tamiya extra thin>fuck up minisI'm sorry anon but that's literally a skin issue. Unless you smear it around the mini and touch it with your gorilla fingers it's actually one of the safer glues because it evaporates fast enough to avoid disfiguring the plastic>>93732359Man scales are so fucking cool and those look great, anon. I need to get a plane kit at some point even if just to relive my childhood
>>93732600>skin issueOne false move and it seeps into unwanted crevices. It leaves a tide mark, which YOU may not notice, but I do.I’ll stick to my revell. NEVER has an issue over decades.
>>93732359>for whoever needs itaint me
How is Army Painter's airbrush primer? I'm sick of the Vallejo stuff constantly clogging.
>>93732650Just use laccquer
>>93730077>How did you get so nifty at green stuff? Any tips?I guess a lot of trial and error? I used to make little figures that resembled kinder surprise toys and other toy surprises and eventually started to try and make them smaller and smaller. I only started using real tools this year, until then i've been using tootpicks, needles and pieces of plastic to shape. It helps when you don't try to make too many details.The best tip i can really give is to sketch something down to have an idea so you can see the proportions and the basic shapes you can start from. Work in sessions of 20-30 minutes with very little greenstuff and build up slowly from main body up to the smaller details (like starting with a wire frame and some bulk for the body, head and limbs and then wait till it's cured to start properly working on the layers. I usually go: - basic shape of a body - legs - head - torso - arms - clothes and details). Also a lot of tutorials online have helped me a lot. Especially for chainmail and capes!Hope it helps!
Are there any hobby youtubers worth watching?I've come to realise a lot of them are either lifestyle youtubers or "satisfying" videos and I may as well be watching subway surfers.
>>93732411>can fuck up minis This happened to one of my models, the axe snapped off one of my CSM and used some to reattach it. Some must have leaked down because it’s melted the hand to lose the trim on the front so now he’s got one massive wrist.
>>93732758There’s that guy who takes pictures of all paints and sells them on patreon (stahly? strahly?), Vince Venturella, Marco Frisoni for ghetto shit and Barbatos Rex for more paint tests, specially from the japanese and german brands.
>>93732758Not really, almost all of them are nothing more than shills for the hobby companies. If you want to actually learn something Vince is tolerable and that artis opus guy has some solid drybrushing
>mfw binging all kinds of painting and kitbashing videos despite being a broke ass bitchIt's driving me nuts, I want to paint my dudes so bad but I can't justify buying any hobby stuff right now. At least I have some unassembled gunpla lying around but I want to get my Grey Marines and Hivefleet Greytide minis painted up.>>93732758Lich's Laboratoryhttps://youtu.be/bcq9vnArpfs?1UzKfX8Vm1qP_r1RDoes a lot of paintings and kitbashes for literal who 40k things. Also some OC Chapters and the like. He's fucking good.Pete the Wargamerhttps://youtu.be/35hxTKHLSAI?si=flMUSILQxBP1jwCzSame as above but he does a little more homebrew stuff with designs.Eric's Hobby Workshophttps://youtu.be/roIJytIRcp4?6IU-ftn_p7UK7X-dDoes a lot of diorama and terrain stuff, in particular his series on making a trench warfare gaming table is really fucking cool.
>>93732815>shills for hobby companies>artis opus who sells brushes>vine who has pro acryl paints
>>93732832I never said those 2 aren't shills, just that their content is tolerable
>>93732839Fair enough. I actually think they're pretty good, too, to be fair.
>>93732832The artis opus brushes is straight up rebranded rosemaries. Which are great brushes, but you would pay extra for the name of the youtuber.As for Vince, his purple is pretty awesome but he himself doesn’t use pro acryl that often anymore.
>>93732860>straight up rebranded rosemariesThey're actually WORSE because the bristles are shorter so rosemaries will hold more paint without the risk of it getting into the ferrule. So with AO you're paying more for an inferior product
>>93732860What about the drybrushes?
>>93732900not bad but I've still got better results with soft makeup blender brushes so definetely not worth the price
>>93732808>There’s that guy who takes pictures of all paints and sells them on patreon (stahly? strahly?),did anyone manage to get the vallejo reference?
>>93732826>Lich's LaboratoryChill, but not that skilled>Pete the WargamerNice conversions, but not bingeable as his explanations are dry and repetitive. Also he has that affectation there 'thing' becomes 'think'. Very annoying>Eric's Hobby WorkshopChill and skilled
>>93732815This artis opus guy voice sound really fucking weird, it make me tiring as fuck
>>93732967Really? I actually find it quite pleasant
>>93732966I'd say Lich is a pretty good sculptor and he has some decent freehanding skills, but otherwise his painting style is simple. I watch him since he hangs out here in /wip/ and he's out guy, but I hope he upgrades his mediocre camera. It degrades his final product
>>93732994Yeah I like him, maybe I used the wrong turn of phrase.I think he showcases below his skill level, considering turning out multiple models for vids + filming, editing, having a real life, etc.
>>93732931Not me, I never subscribed to the patreon. But you can probably get a good glance at it from the video. From his video, both vallejo lines aren’t exactly stellar.
>>93733008What do you mean by aren’t exactly stellar?
>>93733005I imagine a batch of models for one or multiple videos gets more views and outreach than one model with a big time investment into it, so he opts for some medium level of work or a general compromise. I could be wrong though. I don't know a thing about Youtube's quirks, but it makes me wonder.
>>93733015From what I recall both game color (2022) and model color (2024) use the same medium which has bubbling issues under some circumstances, and some colors changed for the worse.
>>93733025I bought a 72 paint set of model colour and they sit mostly unused due to consistency being all over the place (a lot are very thin) and most having a super glossy sheen.
>>93733043So Vallejo is shit tier paint now?
>>93733050IDK I've only used about 25 colours. For me, without using recipes, and just going by eye and experience - the sheen made it very difficult to determine the right amount of contrast/highlights to use. This may not be true for everyone and could be limited to batch.
>>93733050I wouldn't say shit tier, I have a couple of the new game color and the colors are usually really vibrant, the increased drying time is nice and they have a really matt finish which I personally like. I wouldn't buy them over AK though
>>93733066Plus yeah, you have to be careful of THE issue. If you just slap them on haphazardly you can get bubbles on the surface. It's mostly a skill issue, if you apply them slowly and carefully it shouldn't happen. Still, no reason to pick them over paints that don't have the issue, right?
>>93733050Vallejo’s biggest draw to it was that it was fairly equivalent to GW colors and that back in the day it did have a technological step up their competitors. But now the market has changed a lot and these two refreshes didn’t really get up to par with the big boys imo. Vallejo right now seems to be mostly riding off of its fame, and there are tons of GW semi-fanboys who don’t want to buy citadel but aren’t really willing to go to something completely unrelated to it.
>>93733087Vallejo is the only good and cheap brand of paint available to me though, everything else are expensive as fuck
>>93733091So what is the big boys right now?
>>93733101Fair enough. Couldn't you get something else online though? If you buy a couple paints and maybe some other hobby shit shipping costs shouldn't be that much of a problem>>93733106ak, proacryl, ttc
>>93733087>If you just slap them on haphazardly you can get bubbles on the surface. It's mostly a skill issue, if you apply them slowly and carefully it shouldn't happen. Yeah, this is literally not an issue, even for a brand new unskilled painter, with all of the other major paint brands and half of the cheap ass craft paints out there. And what if you want to make some washes out of the paint and have them fill the recesses? It’s inexcusable.
>>93733106Army painter, AK, Atom, Pro Acryl and ttc for regular acrylics. Add Mr. Hobby and Scale75 to the list for more specialized stuff.
>>93733115>Fair enough. Couldn't you get something else online though? If you buy a couple paints and maybe some other hobby shit shipping costs shouldn't be that much of a problemWell, i'm a chink and good, cheap brush paint like Vallejo is hard to find, sure there are people selling AK, Citadel or army painter here but they're like double the price of Vallejo. Mr hobby, Tamiya paint is more suited for airbrushing
>>93733142Is there an Ammo representation there? If so you can probably get atom which is as good as AK, with the caveat that it’s “fantasy” and “model” lines are bunched together so you have to pick the more saturated colors. And ammo is fucking everywhere.
>>93732640Just don't apply so much that it runs.
>>93733142You might be able to get testors acrylic paint too, it has a solvent so it's not odorless like ordinary acrylic is but it's good stuff. Lots of military colors. You can also order coat darms from black hat miniatures website or warcoloures from cyprus.
>>93733050Not shit tier, it's good paint, but the fact they changed their game color line means the company can't be trusted to make the same product year after year, and the bubbles are an issue, I work around them fine but there are cases they present a problem. Vallejo still makes most of the other paint brands secretly so take that into consideration. There's far less competition than big paint would have you believe.>>93733043I'll take them.
>>93732758Vince basically mist don't really teach, he does, the live streams of monument hobbies which is proacryls channel is good but slow in real time but you can observe painting techniques, Embs has a few videos on his site of painting technique but his catalog is still small, but it's detailed instruction, apparently he's got more footage but it still needs editing and he's got a full time art job in another industry. Juan hildago has good instructional videos and sergio calvo livestreams are good to watch.
>>93732359So freaking cool. I'm calling in air strike boys, hunker down, angels incoming.
>>93728310This is Vallejo mecha white.
>>93733050Vallejo still make the best metallics in the business
>>93731423Superglue is a bitch man, i can barely use it. Testors makes an odorless model cement, never tried it but it should be a lot better. Their regular model cement is even worse than super glue though. Get some fresh air. You probably like me have a reaction to epoxies, solvents, polystyrene, and acetone. So you may have to use the odorless stuff or you may need to have somebody else do your gluing for you. You can buy models that are single piece. Citadel models are molded from polystyrene in two part injection molds so to get a lot of detail they have to make the part trees into parts that have to be glued together, but a lot of models today don't require glue. Especially the 3d printed resin ones. Ask around and somebody can make you some when we run another batch or you can buy them from a 3d printer guy on the internet.
>>93731243Looks vicious. Nice wings and teeth.>>93730176Mud on feet looks real >>93730088Pewter is slightly toxic as a powder because it's a metal, it's not going to kill you but I wouldn't want it on my dishes or to breathe it so keeping a little moisture and soapy water on your sanding sticks and washing outside with the hose instead of in the sink is best, but it's considered the safer alternative to lead figures. I also wouldbe a little careful to wash my hands before touching my face after filing or sanding, especially so you dont scratch your eyes, but it's not considered toxic to touch, technically lead isn't really either because very little absorbs through the skin, but if entering the mouth or muscus membranes it can poison and exposure is cumulative over your lifetime so we try not to touch lead with bare hands until primed and wash after until it is. Older dishsoap had phosphorus that helped break down lead but government saved us from that life saving hazard in their vast wisdom so modern soaps don't have phosphorus but washing still helps especially if using an abrasive soap or a paper towel to help scrub up. If I understand citadel company history correctly when games workshop started making 40k models it was around the time they switched to pewter so I doubt 40k models are lead and pewter isn't considered much of an issue but we file and sand stuff so particle size is finer than in most applications. I prefer lead figures because it casts better and paints better but pewter is safer. I've found primer doesn't stick to pewter as well as lead but all materials have their draw backs. Pewter is harder to file and sand but it doesn't get dinged as easily either.
>>93733087Yes mostly skill issue, Pepe explains problem and solution to newbies
What paints should I use for wood? Wanna go for a lighter oak type effect.
Who should I use for my 4 gnoblars in ogre spearheadthese monkeyshttps://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-monkey-pirate-bundle-253430or these platypodeshttps://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-animal-pirate-pack-platypus-capybara-fish-budgie-octopus-monkey-pre-supported-258433
>>93733738I guess cherry is a better example, but something like this. It's for the deck of a ship. I want it to be bright to contrast the dark browns I'm using for the model's leather oufits.
>>93733738Depends on how much work you’re willing to put into it. Ideally you would start with a clear caramel color and darken it with a rich brown/red ink then draw in the grain.
>>93733376>Vallejo still make the best metallics in the businessThis was true in, like, 2019.
shipwreck to serve as the pit for my pirate themed Blood Bowl teams.
Why do modelers and gunpla builders still use old fashioned solvent based paints? I would have assumed modern acrylics made those paints obsolete.
>>93732758You can find good videos they’re usually just specific channels that will have like 2 - 15k subscribers. And the videos will be very specific. None of the mainstream channels are worth watching. Midwit winter minis is by far the worst hobby slop channel, he also left his wife that he’d had a kid with for that hatty bitch that he hired as Le quirky painting side kick. So he’s a massive soft cock faggot.
trucking along on a shokk attack gun kitbash
>>93734073Love it, looking forward to seeing it all put together with the team.
>>93734145Solvent based paints are superior to acrylics. In fact, the latter has only sort of begun to catch up to the former in the last half a decade. Acrylics are good because of their ease of use, short to medium drying time and because they take in matte agents better than other types of paint. Solvent based paints are stronger, bond easier (which is why lacquer primers are the go-to for acrylics), carry much finer pigment than water-based paints, dry fast, and have a very good self-leveling property. Using them for tanks and gunpla is natural if you want to put in the extra work for better results, specially with shit like enamels being available. Mini painters are off of the bunch with out constant use of acrylics as we need to reach in for a bunch of tiny details all over the miniature. Solvent-based paints dry too fast so they are not nice to use with a brush, and we can’t really airbrush 100% of the time unless you’re a wizard. They are still good for priming, base coats and large panels like Tau mechs.
>>93733269>Vallejo still makes most of the other paint brands secretly so take that into considerationWhat paint brands does Vallejo not make? AK and AMMO?
>>93733802peachy color, then glaze with reddish brown, then stripes in a darker brown, final highlights with some peachy color again
>>93734073Looks good>>93734228bussin!
>>93734336I don’t think vallejo makes their own paint either desu. It’s either one of the big names like BASF or PPG or some lesser know companies that takes commissions from them. AK for sure doesn’t make their own paints as their HQ is a warehouse and their office doesn’t fit a manufacturing facility either.
>>93734384Well that sucks. I want to avoid Vallejo due to their meme-medium.
>>93734443But i thought Vallejo airbrush thinner and flow improver could be use with any acrylic paints?
>>93734443But that doesn’t really change anything. Even if vallejo makes AK, the medium used in both paint brands is different for sure. They are likely aware that the medium causes these issues but chose to use it anyways because they know they have a “brand image” and that paypiggies will buy them either way.But, like I said, I don’t think it’s the case. There’s a video of their “factory” and it’s a hunch of R&D facilities and a bottling station. The place is tiny, too. A warehouse same as AK’s.
>>93734456They can. But you can also just use isopropyl alcohol, glycerin retarder and detergent for the same effect. Or even replace the IPA with 2-butoxyethanol if you’re fancy. Their thinner is just a solution of 7% of that molecule.
Vallejo global conspiracy schizo returns. Welcome back, we haven't had a retarded threat in a while.
>>93734456They can be and as far as I know and I don't think the recipe for those products has been changed.>>93734475>Even if vallejo makes AK, the medium used in both paint brands is different for sure.Fair enough. As long as it stays that way I'll be happy.
>>93734556This is skill issue general, expect a lot of shitty blacksmiths blaming tools
>>93734556>we haven't had a retarded threat in a whileDon't lie
What do you think about homemade paint? Can it be better than brand paints?
I'm making a little diorama of a dwarf traveller and his dwarf sized horse. How did I do on the models?I'm well aware that there is still some gloss showing.Both models are from Warmongerminiatures. Guthrum the Wizard and Halfling pony.I plan on greenstuffing around the bases of the metal miniatures to even things out so that when I give them sand basing it won't look like they are too much on their own mounds, but that's inevitable as the miniatures have integrated bases. Any advice? I plan on using static grass, tufts, and flower tufts.
>>93734662Only homemade enamels are allowed
>>93734556At least he's not the dyi schizo, duncan schizo, "harsh criticism" schizo, youtube schizo etc etc. Now that I think of it a lot of our schizos disappeared at the same time, so it's highely likely it was just one retard derailing the thread all along
>>93734829I think there was also a photo schizo a few threads ago, who wanted people to take poor quality pics instead of using direct lights on black backgrounds or something cause that's "cheating"
>>93734971ohh that's true lmao, he wasn't nearly as annoying as the ones I've mentioned though
>>93734228That looks great! I never would have known it was a conversion without you telling me and looking up the reference.
>>93733458Thanks! Main focus at the moment is on how best to bulk up the wings; they look a little small for it normally, but that’s because of the skinny musculature rather than the actual wingspan itself. I’m cutting out the fingers in the wingspan and replacing them with the toxicrene tendrils, but I still need to think of the best way to beef up the top of the arm (as the acid spray gun took care of the bottom). If all else fails I can just try and sculpt a mass onto it with clay.Also debating if I should add some bit to the front of the wing by the gun like a scything talon, but I might need to wait until I finish the rest of the wing first.I’ve also discovered that the head of the Spinemaw Ripper I cut for my Hive Tyrant’s base fits perfectly into the mouth of the thing as well, so I might also stick that in there because it looks just like a tongue-eating louse.
I am having a terrible time here trying to paint my necron warriors’ weapons. The blades and tubes specifically. Does anyone have any tips for stripping paint from just one part of a figure? I have to redo it for the third time and the rubbing alcohol and q tips I’m using aren’t really able to get into some of the cracks like I need. :/
>>93735247It's rather hard to strip only a part of a mini without there being a difference in surface afterwards, unfortunately. What are you having trouble with? I'm painting some necrons too maybe I could help
>>93735278Mainly transitioning the colors on the blades and tubes. I’m following Juan Hidalgo’s guide on YouTube how to do it. The first time I just fucked up a step and had to get off as much as I could. The second, just now, what I think happened is my glazes were too thick? But I’m not sure. It just always seems to end good *in sections* but once the light color meets with the dark in that middle it just looks blocky and not like a transition at all. ESPECIALLY on the tube.
>>93735356You could try doing more glazes but with more in-between steps. So for example instead of doing glazes of warpstone and then moot green or whatever he's using, first do a couple glazes with a 1:1 mix of them. Should help with the smoothness, at least that's what I do and I think the result is decent. You have to get a feel how much you need to thin the paints to get a glaze though. I think it's better to add too much than too little water because you can always just do more layers. If you put it too thick you have to return to your darker glaze and go back and forth until it's smooth
>>93735488oh and it's easier to glaze if you thin with medium instead of water so you might want to try that too
>>93735488I think the staff would look a bit cleaner without the white, but this guy is pretty well done all things consideredGood job anon
>>93735504You might be right, that's ice yellow that I did the brightest parts with. I'll try going with something more yellow and less white on the other dude with a staff
>>93733802Cherry wouldn't be used for a ship deck. Teak and mahogany or White oak or a cedar if you've got a budget. Other woods have very poor water resistance.>t. Professional tree carcass molester
>>93735488>>93735501Thank you, anon. I’m gonna give all this a shot when I get home. Hopefully it’ll make them look good like yours. :)
>>93732758Most of the good ones are only good when targeting very specific things> infernal brush - replicating Eavy Metal box art if that's your goal> James wappel - oil paints> Vince - having a technique explained to you (early videos have terrible camerawork)
while we're talking necrons, gonna move on to basing this guy. What you guys think about the gun glow? I'm not sure about it, maybe just dropping black into the recesses would look better?
>>93734336From the way I understand it HGM Paints makes most of the paints that come in traditional paint pots and that's done in the UK, those that come in dropper bottles are mostly made by Vallejo in Spain. Warcolours is made in Cyprus, and ProAcryl is made in the US in Arizona. That's your basic distribution of paint makers. So more or less there are only four places paint is made.
>>93734443Not all their paints use the new medium. At least not yet. Check out Wizkids Prismatic paint. It dries a little different than the old game color, but it seems to be regular acrylic medium.
Professional retard schizo please fuck off and stop false flagging to promote your retarded website.
>>93734686Looks great! Love the proportions. Really stylish characters. You should have molds made and sell them.>>93735247Fine soft spongebacked sandpaper basically, then wash with a very soft toothbrush and use toothpicks to get into the small spots if needed and then reapply a brush on primer. Or just paint over it with a medium grey brush on primer. That works most of the time. I don't think it's a good idea to use a chemical stripper on it. They lift the paint, they don't dissolve it. There's a difference. And because of that difference it's hard to blend the two areas.
What's a good way to get this color from the hatch? It reminds me of these rusted out 50s/60s sheds I used to see in the midwest
>>93733269You're a retarded conspiracy schizo.Colart in France still makes a ton of paint. They were the previous manufacturer for GW before they went back to HWG.TTC are made in a garage in the UK.Army painter make paint in Denmark.Why promote all these falsehoods?
>>93736133>They were the previous manufacturer for GW before they went back to HWG.GW have absorbed paint production entirely now fwiw, their newest Notts factory is dedicated to just manufacturing paints. Though HMG are still working with Coat D'Arms, and possibly still producing the P3 range, although that I've no idea what impact the PP buyout's going to have on that
Need color scheme ideas for my renegade kasrkin. I really dig the Gal Vorbak armor, but I can't make up my mind about the fatigues. At first I wanted to do winter camo, but the longer I look at it the less sense it makes with the purplish red armor. Also kinda looks like cow spots?Should I just do khaki, or something? Pure grey?
>>93736217shut the fuck up. none of that is true.
will base paints turn into contrast paints if I add enough medium, or are they fundamentally different somehow?
>>93736402depends on the medium/additives.keep in mind though that some pigments are naturally transparent and these are more common in contrast paints, while base paint pigments are generally picked for their coverage/opacity.
>>93736394>none of that is true.??https://investor.games-workshop.com/annual-reports-and-half-year-results>We are an international business centrally run from our HQ in Nottingham, with 78% of our sales coming from outside the UK. We have our two main factories, *a paint factory*, two warehouse facilities, the Warhammer Studio and back office support functions - all are based in or near Nottingham>In 2022/23, we invested £6.7 million on moulding tools and £1.8 million in tooling, milling, injection moulding and *paint machines*.Meanwhile, Coat D'Arms pots outright say>Manufactured by HMG Paints Ltdon the side of the label
>>93736543Nice collection fren. I've got a few colors still to go and I'll have the full range. Still need some of there horse colors, a lot are redundant in the military line of course with the fantasy line, but I also need their inks :)
>>93736543that guy has been trying to trigger for a while for some reason >>93723640, ignore before he derails the thread
>>93736543GW paints have never said made by HWG. They are still manufactured by HWG and GWs paint factory is where they bottle their paints.
>>93736133>TTC are made in a garage in the UK.You don't make a paint in a garage or small warehouse. At best you mix the pigment with the medium and bottle the solution. But the core of the manufacturing requires large dedicated facilities.
GW kind of buried the lede on the wolf tits here in the box of trueblades. I had no clue until I assembled the box.
>>93736543>>In 2022/23, we invested £6.7 million on moulding tools and £1.8 million in tooling, milling, injection moulding and *paint machines*.That's nothing. 5% of their profit before taxes. They really don't give a shit.
>>93736997>They really don't give a shit.I mean, they can only buy as many machines as they have factory floorspace for
>>93736997Laws in the UK are shit if you want to expand with a new factory, they fought for years and are maybe making progress now.
making some progress
>>93737033>>93737056Do they at least pay good dividends for you shareholders? How's their E/P?
>>93737193Nice blue cloth, anon. The skin ain't too shabby either, good job so far
>>93737308What is this /v/-tier post? You can be better than this.
I gotta do some highlights but they're looking done already.
>>93736890You can make paint in your kitchen if you wanted to, but that's not the point. As per >>93736787 GW only rebottle what they get from HWG. They do not make their own paint.>>93736997>>93737033>>93737056Nah not really any progress. City Council isn't having it. It's either GW's new Factory or the hospital.
Next to do: free-hand the Ryza symbol.
>>93736925Booba>>93736617Why ignore? Can't you hold a conversation about paints? Especially when he has prufs
>>93736402As fren said pigment opacity can vary a lot depending on what they are made of. The pigments that are like dyes make the best contrast paint. These include hansa yellow arylide, napthol red, phthalocyanine blue and green, Quinacridone magenta, etc, along with some of the more transparent earth tones like umber, adding more pigment doesn't make the pigment more transparent, it suspends and disperses the pigment better maximizing the amount of backlighting and optical mixing the white ground can impart to the optical illusion of lightness. So if the pigment is really opaque extra medium can only help so much, but yes you can make most paints behave at least somewhat like contrast paints with extra medium because most of the pigments we use in miniature painting are somewhat transparent, exceptions would be those paints labeled as heavy or base paints, those are especially opaque. Contrast medium is a bit special, it's basically acrylic medium, propylene glycol to slow drying, and perhaps a non sudding surfactant or polyurethane. So it spreads easily, stays wet for a while, and breaks the surface tension of the paint. In other words it's floor polish. An old trick we professional painters know about but we usually make our own to control the recipe and gloss. So if you just buy the contrast medium it'll help you out a lot, or just use regular medium and run your moist brush over a bar or ivory soap and that'll work almost as well.
>>93737743Adding more medium doesn't i meant to say*
>>93737565Beautiful color
>>93737426Those are great
>>93737743So is it a dye or a pigment?
>>93737795Most are pigments, but dye like pigments in that they are semitransparent and stain, but some of the colors have opaque pigments added to them too, some of the greys are like that for example. Genuine dye dissolves entirely in the solvent and chemically bond with the surface to which it adheres, an example of a genuine dye would be indigo. Today most paint is made with pigments for extra lightfastness. Indigo replaced with phthalocyanineblue or iron blue. Most dyes are organic and fade in sunlight. But the arylides and phtahlos are pseudo organic in that they exist in nature but are synthesized more cheaply than they could be extracted from organic sources. So simple answer is they are pigments for the most part, juat mostly synthetic semitransparent ones that stain so mimick dyes.
>>93736543>Coat D'armsI've been having an oldhammer itch for a while and understand that those are the original GW paints I think. How's the quality of those paints?
>>93737795nta, and I ain't readin allat, but it's like this>dye: chemical which binds a chromophore to another molecule in order to change its color>pigment: colored particles, intended to be suspended in medium
>>93738306good. thinner than I would like, I'd prefer them to be as vinyl as the original medium, but they match the old colors some almost exactly but the naming conventions are very different, like the 1980s enchanted blue is now called light blue and their enchanted blue is a blue metallic, some batches are a little too thin, but most are okay and they come in the original pots so they last literally forever and can be thickened up by leaving them cracked for 20 minutes or so. They are a bit hard to mix without a shaker and shaker ball but if you turn them upside down before use that's easier. I love them, but I'm very old school in my painting approach. I just wish they were thicker. Like mud. That's how I like my paint. These are thicker than vallejos, but not as thick as the 1980s paints. The grey primer is one of the most useful colors I think. The lighter greens and yellows are weak of course, but better than most brands and their blues are amazing especially light blue and bavarian which are very close in shade and their magic blue is a transparent blue like caledor sky, they have a LOT of earth tones spread over teh fantasy and military lines, some colors are duplicates like the black and white for each line so you don't really need every color, but most are unique to each line, just not the primaries of course.
>>93738398yeah that's what I said. Just less jewish.
>>93738402Thanks anon! I guess I'll pick up Goblin Green and Sun Yellow to make a goblin green camouflage Johnny.
>>93737975I'm glad you learned that they're different things. I remember not too long ago you were arguing that contrast paint is made from dyes. It's an easy mistake to make for a beginner.Good on you.
>>93732758A couple I can think of.MarcoNJM may be an ESL but his was the only colour theory video I was able to sit through and learn something from. And whilst his title cards may look and sound clickbaity the videos themselves aren't. Watching his stuff will give you a decent amount of knowledge and teach some practical methods and uses for various paint types and painting styles. Sorastro is more of a paint along channel, but is decent for seeing some relatively common painting techniques in action. Also nice seeing something like Kingdom Death models going from primer to fully painted so you can see painting them well is actually achievable.
>>93738678I never said that at all. Go back in the archives and you'll see that I ALWAYS said they were dye like pigments and I explained the difference being that a dye chemically bonds with the surface, but a pigment doesn't. I have a very long memory. Don't test me. You'll lose.
>>93735836Yeah maybe either that or bring the highlight up in selected places to make the shadows 'look' darker
>>93738678While most of the colorants are pigments selected for their lightfastness here's some of the standard dyes that are used as some of the less lightfast colorants in the contrast line. You'd know this if you were in the business I am. We have to color match to these every single day. They are easily recognizable in the paints. They've been the standard since before you were born. https://www.docmartins.com/collections/dye-based
>>93731498See if you can find some thicker diameter nylon (polyester) thread, if not you could use florists wire and twist it or if you have the patience to braid the thread... Never use cloth threads/string because they look like shit when you paint them and can pop out hairs as they dry making them look even more like shit.
>>93731498Just regular hemp twine will work just fine. You can use matte finish mod podge to make it hard if you need to. If you can't get a hold of hemp twine cotton or flax will also work but hemp is the right color.
A horseman in progress.
>>93739146Really nice. Love the iridescent blue
>>93738402>>93736543How are the Coat D'arms super washes and ink washes?
>>93739191Haven't used them, I plan on adding them next time I order from blackhat. I've used their chestnut ink though and the old Citadel Games Workshop Expert inks which are likely the same formula as the new inks. I found those all to be very good so I expect something good. The chestnut ink though isn't really like a contrast ink. It's weaker and more for shading skin than tinting the midtones. But the old GW inks were very bright so I expect the CoatDArms stuff to be the same. The old inks were basically just Dr Martin's dyes after all and now some are stabilized as more lightfast as pigment like dyes through a few different processes. Which is what I've been trying to explain from the outset. But no one listens. They just want to argue.
>>93739222>The old inks were basically just Dr Martin's dyes after all and now some are stabilized as more lightfast as pigment like dyes through a few different processes. Which is what I've been trying to explain from the outset. But no one listens. They just want to argue.I've never used Dr Martin's dyes. So I don't understand that comparison. Just hobby paints. I did buy some white ink for zenithal over black.Could one theoretically get a Dr. Martin dye product and use that as a wash straight out of the bottle or is water thinning required?>The chestnut ink though isn't really like a contrast ink. It's weaker and more for shading skin than tinting the midtones. For what it is worth I hope it does the job right. Thing is I feel that there aren't that many alternative-to-GW-brands of hobbyist focused paints out there that do washes right. There's ArmyPainter, and AK's washes aren't really that good colour choice wise. So ArmyPainter is pretty much the only hobby paint alternative I know to Citadel that is decent. I learned of Coat D'arms a while ago and just remembered that it has washes. So I'm hoping that Coat D'arms washes are good if AP goes under and then I have to look for an alternative while still avoiding GW.>Haven't used them, I plan on adding them next time I order from blackhat.Please report on the superwashes quality. Especially the ones that aren't black and brown coloured because I've only ever found a review of them from one source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GQDMimb2yw8
>>93739400>>93739400Yes dr martins dyes are just concentrated watercolors so you can use them as inks d8luting with water as needed. In my line of work we usually made 3 or 4 shades depending on the era of publication we need to color match to and then we have every combination of those. To make certain they don't reactivate you can add an extra drop of shellac. But guess what? That's all winsor and newton drawing inks are, and that's what we used to use back in the day for minis. But the shellac adds gloss and we don't want gloss in recesses so acrylic inks were invented which are dyes and dye like pigments in an acrylic medium instead of just gum and shellac. That's all vallejo inks are. And those are very good but who knows how long they'll be available. Add a special longer lasting medium with the addition of some propylene glycol and reduce surface tension with a soap and harden the finish with polyurethane and you've got contrast paints or speed paints etc. So honestly you can make your own washes, inks, dyes, contrast paints, shades, etc, but it's faster and better to buy the commercial products designed for the purpose, but I make my own paints all the time using various dyes and pigments. So trust me, there will always be alternatives even if I have to start selling the stuff I make to you guys.
Not mine but I got one at gencon. Should I even paint it? Maybe practice some NMM since I never do it?
>>93739400Good review, seeing the behavior i would recommend a varnish layer before the wash with a matte acrylic varnish from coat darms and adding a touch of the varnish onto the brush after adding the lahmian medium to make it more tacky. The black looks like a good replacement for nuln oil.
>>93739581I would, it's obvious it's supposed to be colored but I have no idea what it is or it's value, it's worth more than a jewish fiat currency for sure. Plastic has actual value unlike the American dollar wince the creation of the federal reserve bank, i like the coin case, pretty inventive
>>93739597It was an aborted Kingdom Death thing that previously was like a digital gift card/NFT that could be spent on their website. They got rid of them in that form due to backlash and now give them out at conventions for various stuff like painting contests and in game challenges.
>>93732758Get away from the anglosphere and watch some that aren't always in spoken English and Angel Giraldez or Jose DaVinci.
>>93734829you all called me crazy when I pointed out it was happening at the same times each day. I wasnt crazy, you were all just too blind to see. trusting your streamer gods and lyintists and not me. pic unrelated.
>>93734829I can be a harsh criticism schizo at times. But then I regret being mean.Not connected to those other posts.
>>93739630Cool>>93739773For some reason people in this thread think I'm three different people who are also posting now so I'm not sure anybody would be able to tell any of that.
New thread:>>93739957>>93739957>>93739957
