>>96623185
what do you mean using it properly? people who use spray guns for a living take them apart every day because they want to make sure there's no paint drying inside them. it's like how do you know that you wiped your ass enough if you don't look to see if there's shit on the paper?

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I'm making a custom beastboss on squigosaur and I just realized I didn't give him a bosspole. Should I include one or would that clutter the model?

>>96621349
>Repostan because I didn't realise the thread finished
Great job, however one thing I feel I must mention is the lipstick. In general don't apply it to the upper lip area, or if you do don't do it as thick/wide as on the lower lip. It might feel incorrect doing so, but it will look much more natural. If you need to highlight the upper lip area just do so with more of your skin highlight.

Troonhammer

>>96625096
wrong tab buddy

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>>96624310
>>96616569
And he's done too. Now I go slumber

>>96624968
You could dry fit, but a flag on the side of the squig could be neat

based on my elite digits and the info from anons, i decided to support my LGS and get the two Blanche paint sets and some models while i was at it
>>96622222

>>96625215
Very nice. Metallic highlights really work great with black armor.

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this is what i get for painting the crew separately
do they stick out too much or should i edge highlight the whole speeder to match them

>>96622040 here.
Anybody here use enamel washes? Any advice for someone who is about to get some enamel washes and try it out?

From my research I've found it important to varnish the paints first before applying enamel washes so I'll remember to gloss varnish the miniatures first.
Then after applying the enamel wash use thinner to remove the excess.
Is there anything else?

>>96625807
I do, regularly. Both enamels and oils.
>it important to varnish the paints first before applying enamel washes
It's not mandatory, though it is definitely a good practice. But, generally speaking, you can get away by not using any varnish beforehand, just make sure to be gentle with the white spirit cleanup (and don't use AP acrylics). Some people prefer it, because you can play with textures better that way.

Otherwise, there ain't much to it, really. Sans the waiting time, enamels/oils are just simpler to work with than acrylic washes. Speaking of varnishes, gloss/flat/etc. all produce a bit different results, and it is something you can use to your advantage (for example, gloss varnishes generally produce a bit colder final result).
Just make sure to wait enough time before applying another layer of enamels/oils. If you gonna layer them (this is especially good for weathering, you should varnish, wait, apply another layer, etc.)

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>>96625246
He's already dryfitted in two pieces (hence the picture of me pinching him together) but the Mozrog model in question I'm using as a base already has a slot for a bosspole (pic related).

I guess I'm asking if I should slot my own custom bosspole there or does my kitbash look sufficiently warbossy without one?

>>96625858
It looks like you have a cape on him instead, which I think is cooler.
The horn I think makes for a valid pole, but you could make it a little fancier if you think it isn't enough
Ultimately, the pole is such a minor piece of wargear for a guy holding a 20foot rotary saw

>>96625665
I'd say highlight the vehicle so that it's unified, but it's also cool as is

>>96624396
Not everyone. The only place where paint is going in your airbrush is your cup, your nozzle and the front of your needle. You shouldn't have to do anything more than flushing it a few times, brushing a bit of thinner in the area between the cup and the front and removing the nozzle and cleaning the tip of the needle. If paint is getting anywhere else it means your needle seal is fucked and it really shouldn't be because that piece is under no strain whatsoever and should last years.
There's nothing wrong with disassembling it every once in a while but if you're careful and make sure to not let anything dry inside the process I just mentioned is more than enough to keep it in perfectly good shape. I maybe actually remove my needle like once a month, and it's always spotless anyway.

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>>96625882
Yeah I got a cape on him but it's pretty localized on just that shoulder (as shown here). That said, I think I was probably just looking for a second opinion on if he's good without a bosspole, so I appreciate you offering that.

I also appreciate you complimenting the weapon I gave him, it was both a lot of fun and a little tricky to put together, since I assembled it + the arm from 3 different kits.

>>96625844
Thanks!
What specific enamel washes do you use and what should I know about them?
Assuming the LGS has them.

Would a black enamel wash basically be the "near universal" enamel wash to use if in doubt of what enamel wash to use?

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Working on this girl for KDM. One of my players requested the color scheme. Need to face my fear and actually try to put lipstick/eyeliner on after a bit of clean up. Also the unfortunate mark on the leg (she helped me get the off the spru and cut a little deep).

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>>96625947
Oh yeah, and to clarify
>buzzsaw came from some spare Deff Dread killsaw bits
>upper shaft came from nuBoyz nob 'uge choppa kit
>lower shaft came from runt herder grotporod kit
>arm came from nuBoyz spare nob arm I had
>cape and hat came from WHF Empire Commander kit
All in all he was a lot of fun to put together. I also gave the squigosaur a horn made out of a deff dread tusk and a side gun made out of some spare meganob tellyporta guns bits I had. Now I just need to paint enough of my ork troops to gain the confidence to paint my warboss.

>>96625985
I use both AK enamels (Streaking Grime stuff), and AK oil paints - both their new range, and the old Abteilung, they are basically the same thing but rebranded. I also have some Tamiya Panel Line. I can wholeheartedly recommend all of these.
>Would a black enamel wash basically be the "near universal" enamel wash
Black is too strong, darker brown (like Tamiya Panel Line Dark Brown) is a lot better choice, imo. But again, it all depends on what you are painting.

It's one of the reasons why I'm often shilling making your own washes out of oil paints. You buy a few tubes with basic paints (AK sells sets for that), white spirit, and dilute your own washes to exactly the color you wash. It sounds complicated, but it's not. It's also a lot cheaper, since one oil paint tube will last you years and years. Probably a lifetime, if you will only use it for washes. And you can use oils to paint, too, they are awesome for silky smooth gradients.

Now that I have an actual airbrush and not a chinese paint hose, how do I learn to do those fancy volumetric highlights?

Is a sonic cleaner the safest option to paint strip cast resin miniatures without damaging the form of the miniature?
I did some research and found that using iso alcohol has a risk of damaging the model itself.

>>96625942
>if you're careful and make sure to not let anything dry inside
and how do you know there's nothing drying inside if you don't take it out to inspect it? everyone I know that paints professionally and all of the industry training courses tell you to fully clean your shit every time you use it. why should I listen to someone on a turkic hobby bbs instead of them?

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gonna make some sosijis and other food to scatter about

>>96626120
That's the fun part, you don't. Instead you'll learn how to take it apart and unclog it until you decide to never use it again.

>>96626170
Ultrasonic cleaners are a meme. Speak it over night in some simple green or whatever your equivalent is and then use a Philips sonicare type electric toothbrush to clean it off

>>96626716
>Speak it over night in some simple green or whatever your equivalent is and then use a Philips sonicare type electric toothbrush to clean it off
And this is safe for cast resin that isn't Finecast tier crap?

>>96626716
I've never used them on plastic toys but they're definitely not a meme for cleaning metal parts

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Here's hoping I don't mess up with the fluo paint in the morning.

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Working on a unit of Skitarii rangers. I thought I'd try painting this squad without sub assemblies because I didn't want to deal with all the separate tiny pieces. I think that was a mistake and if nothing else the backpacks must be painted separately.

>>96626686
This is honestly where im at. I cant just pick it up, spray a couple spots and call it a day. The maintaining is 90% of the time associated with it. I am finding that it's nice to use when it works, but it's for pure hobbies, not me who just likes to see my little dudes moving up the battlefield.

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beeg robot

>>96626191
NTA but it shouldn't be anything there for reason he mentioned - seal behind cup section prevents paint from entering this area. Only time when it could do so is if you take out needle from the back, dragging paint leftovers or if you remove needle while there is any paint left in cup - things you shouldn't do anyway and any painter/instructor worth their salt will tell you so. Hell, I watched professional painters, talked face to face with old boomers who literally cut their teeth on this hobby, even H&S released video once about cleaning and pretty much said "some people insist on taking everything apart - hey, don't do this, it's pointless, just clean there and here and don't waste time on cleaning when you can paint instead". The ONLY time I heard (also face to face) opinion about taking everything apart for detailed cleaning was from guy who was selling courses - what a coincidence, huh?

It's like with brush soap - you have guys selling this stuff insisting on using it and burning money on special treatment solutions while actual art students I talked with at store (cute girls, btw) uses fucking dishwasher solution and their brushes still stands, while my own mother uses normal soap, likewise keeping her brush in good shape.

>>96623355
Thanks Anon! I'm sorry to dissapoint, but these are on brown earth bases with some snow and grass. My 4th/5th High Elf army will be on goblin green bases.

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One-off getting painted for the hell of it.

Since someone mentioned airbrush - which models would be best to train using it?

>>96625990
ZAMN!

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>>96628392
any in the 15-30bucks range

>>96628485
No, I mean plastic models to train using it.

>>96628528
why would they need to be plastic specifically?

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>>96627915
He's a big boi.
>>96627692
Cute skittles, nice clean red.
>>96625990
Looks good so far, I like the color scheme.
>>96625665
I'd highlight the vehicle as well myself. As you've said, the marines do stick out a bit.
>>96625215
Just lovely. That bullet hole looks so cool.

>>96628392
There isn't really much to it. Something you want to paint is one of the bigger things, since it means you'll actually get around to it. Beyond that I guess something with a mix of detailed, highly textured areas and large(ish) smooth areas. The former lets you see if you clog up details, the latter lets you see if you get the paint on smoothly and evenly.

>>96625665
Highlight it. Don't give less care and attention to the thing that's more visible.

>>96628528
as in cheap stuff no matter how ugly to throw them away later? try mantic or wga

>>96628528
The humble plastic spoon

>>96628562
>Cute skittles, nice clean red.
Thanks anon! I'm looking forward to having the base colours and wash done on them all so I can start going through and picking out all the fine details. Blue lenses, some green screens and panels, and of course the white cog stripe trimming on the robe. Very fun models to paint.

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>>96627692
>>96628773
When I was painting mine in the beginning I kept rifle arms and backpacks separate but towards the end I just assembled them fully. It doesn't make painting them much more difficult desu

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So I started working on some XPS hills and rocks today, pretty messy and time consuming, hopefully will be able to put a second coat of runnier PVA glue on them later today, then flip them over and do the same process on the other side before I can prime them.

I also thought of just washing some old cans I have and priming them with a metal primer to make some cheap, gypsy and easy silos for terrain. Has anyone else here used them in such capacity?

>>96629051
Looks like tasty sponge cake.

>>96629051
usually people use cheap craft paints to paint scenery
if you cover the xps texture with pva it might ruin the effect here and there and make it look uneven

>>96629069

Right, thanks for the warning. I slathered them with PVA because I was worried about primer corroding the XPS. I tested it on a few naked XPS pieces and observed some corrosion where the primer had pooled. Do you think that pva mixed with water would give sufficient protection against corrosion?

>>96629090
> Do you think that pva mixed with water would give sufficient protection against corrosion?
it's solvation not corrosion, also yes

>>96629090
you dont need primer for scenery just slather and dab the craft paint on, also you dont need to paint the bottom they will just scrape off and make a mess because you dont usually varnish terrain pieces
if you are the anon with the kid that basecoating could be fun experience for the junior

>>96629303

Yeah he was already helping me cut these pieces and glue the sand on.

>>96625550
Thanks and yeah, they provide a nice contrast without looking out of place and also help building the weathered look.

>>96628562
Ty kind anime poster

>>96625807
In my experience enamels are a bit more aggressive than normally diluted oil paints so a gloss varnish is a good idea and generally it's useful to improve the capillary action of the wash.

My advice is to have fun and test things out, unlike acrylics you can remove them quite easily (just remember than your average enamel will dry completely in less than a days, oil paints will take longer without additional additives).

Don't overdo it with the white spirit on your sponge/brush/whatever when removing the excess from the wash, just a little at a time works fine.

>>96625985
>>96626058
>shilling making your own washes out of oil paints
Definitely agree with this anon, it's much cheaper and oil paints last forever. The only cons is a longer drying time but as I said you can buy additives that shorten that time window dramatically.
I think that with a black and a sienna brown tubes you can make most of the general purpose washes you'll ever need.

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>>96629321
didnt find any wip pictures of the hill set i made this spring but have a bunker instead
basically you just use pva to glue the sand on and then thin it down with water to seal it so it wont come off
painting xps is kinda chore because you need to go over it few times to get a good coverage but no need for primer because its basically an useless expense that only complicates things
good luck anon

>>96629426
The holes need weathering, scorch marks, bits of rubble around them, too clean especially with rusty rebar

>>96629426

Right. The primer I have is grey, so I think it'll be enough to give a couple drybrush passes with paler colours to make them look decent. Of course, the larger surfaces which will either be brown or green - haven't decided yet will be more challenging.

I also watched a video tutorial yesterday where a guy made pretty good trees and bushes from manila rope and lichen, has anyone here tried doing similar homemade terrain?

>>96629360
>I think that with a black and a sienna brown tubes you can make most of the general purpose washes you'll ever need.
Agreed. I would add orange for the mix, because then you can mix all kinds of neat rust colors, and then something like Dust or any other warmer off white color for dust/dried mud.

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>>96629455

Here's a quick mock-up I just made, I don't have any lichen or moss with me, so the trees will be leafless for the time being. What do you think about the basic concept?

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>>96629442
sure you could go all out why not
>>96629455
>has anyone here tried doing similar homemade terrain
some 15 years ago i made a forest with cheap broom, wire, sawdust flock and power drill
trunks i think were some self hardening clay or something

>>96628047
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SmooNVXPoKA
here is a video from the company itself and the first thing they do is remove the needle. if you just look at an airbrush you can see that even with a small airbrush there's like an inch of the needle that's inside the body below where the paint cup is and the only way to get at it is to remove it.

>>96629600
This is a deep clean, I doubt even Iwata recommends doing a deep clean after every season, that's simply too inconvenient, at that point you're spending more time assembling, disassembling and cleaning your airbrush than painting.

>>96629827
it's 15 minutes so even if you only paint for 2 hours that's still an 8:1 ratio of work to maintenance.
>remove cap, nozzle, and needle
>start soaking nozzle and needle while you clean the paint cup
>brush the cap and wipe the other parts off
>put everything back together
there's literally nothing difficult or overly time consuming about any of these steps.

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>>96627101
I never get photographs of a black and white model right, no matter how much I adjust the aperture and shutter speed. The green and white here are less flat looking IRL but you'll just have to take my word for it.

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Needs a bit of cleanup but I pretty much basecoated this chicken robot. I think these colors work a lot better than those on the box art.

>>96629981
Nice OSL, those edge highlights are a little sloppy though.

>>96629912
>it's 15 minutes so even if you only paint for 2 hours that's still an 8:1 ratio of work to maintenance.
that's a massive chunk of time. and I can't remember the last time I would have painted for 2 hours straight.

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I'm just getting into minatures with the new gundam game I have the minis built and want to move on to painting. So I had a question about priming the minis for paint, is it true that I can just use something like this? Or do I need to go buy like a special one from citadel for priming?

>>96629600
Maybe we got confused but what I thought that other anon was talking about was taking EVERYTHING apart, including cleaning back parts and needle duct with specialized tools, which is overkill. Taking out nozzle and needle is quick indeed and if you do things right (backflow with water, removal of paint leftovers from the cup, etc) the only thing that's left is to wipe needle with cloth and that's all since you are not supposed to leave paint to dry inside nozzle and if o-rings are good, there shouldn't be any leakage inside anyway (cheapest possible airbrush I got first actually leaked almost everywhere, slightly more expensive model I got later don't leak at all).

Sadly, I cannot do that backflow trick with my airbrush (it have this fancy, flower-like nozzle cap so I can't just block it with fingers).

>>96630701
I use it, it's fine
Since it's your first time practice on something first. Left over sprues are great for it because they have lettering on it so you can tell if you've gone overboard or done too little and can adjust

>>96630701
You can absolutely prime with something like Rust-oleum, BUT it's much easier to massively over spray and ruin the fine details on the model with primers not made for minis. Some brands are safer/easier to use than others. Make sure you practice on something first.

>>96630467
>15 minutes is too long for clean up
be glad you don't do wood or metalworking

>>96630701
I think lots of people use mr hobby brand primer for gundams or airbrush primer, but that should work. I've gotten into autistic arguments over this too but if you actually look at the cans citadel doesn't have anything that says "primer" anywhere on it.

>>96630970
I'm going to sound like a shill but I don't care, Mr Surfacer is fantastic. Acrylic "primers" can't even compete.

>>96631136
It's good. I would point out though, in case it's needed (the newcomer might not know), that stuff like Rustoleum or GW spray cans aren't acrylic.

>>96631173
>GW spray cans aren't acrylic
Wait, really?

>>96631177
They're not (at leats not their black, white and varnish, haven't used any others, but it would surprise me considerably if they were any different), as both their relative toughness and the smell of them as they dry should make abundantly clear if you stop to think about it. Hell, their varnishes are even quite hot compared to many airbrush lacquer paints (if you want to use them on top of Mr Paint you should probably put another, gentler varnish coat in between as protection for the paintjob), and I suspect it's the same basic chemistry in all their rattlecans.

>>96629912
There's just no real tangible benefit to a complete tear down including removing o-rings and disassembling the trigger every single time you use your airbrush. You can do it if it please you, but it's absolute overkill and pretending it's a necessary step to maintain an airbrush is silly.

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>>96631281
paint is made out of pigment, binder, and a carrier. "acrylic" paint refers to the fact that the binder is an acrylic resin. it's water soluble but that doesn't mean water is the only solvent you can use with it. according to the tds for that brand of rustoleum it is acrylic. what you are smelling when you spray it is probably the naptha and the xylene.

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>>96631431
I'll adjust it then to "those spray cans aren't what people normally mean when they talk about arcylic primers".

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Done.

>>96631416
if you got paint on your hands would you just run water over them or would you properly scrub them to get all of the paint off?

>>96631499
That's a pretty good analogy, I would wash my hands, not take a whole shower and wash every inch of my body.
Look this is a pretty pointless argument. Doing a deep clean after every use is overkill but there's also no real issue doing it as long as you're gentle when disassembling and assembling. It's just extra maintenance, but if you have a good rhythm and don't mind the extra minutes or even enjoy it then there's no harm at all.

>>96631532
when you use your spray gun you get paint on the needle. if you want to clean it you need to at least wipe it off, which you can't do when it's still inside the gun. not taking the gun apart to clean is like trying to wash yourself after you shit your pants without taking them off.

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v2, Made a new tail out of a defiler arm STL and added some spiked trim

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>>96631594
rear view

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>>96631484
Excellent!

>>96631594
Nice, you added the pointy trim

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>>96631601
You could consider taking a page out of FW's playbook with the brass scorpion's weapon tail from behind.

>>96631680
Not the inspiration (as the shortage of white might show), but it does tend in that direction yes.

Is there like a set of starter brushes you guys would recommend for someone starting out hand painting stuff?

>>96630192
Genuinely a very nice base coat there anon. NOW DUNK IT IN NULN OIL

DUNK IT

>>96631941
The cheapest you can find so replacing them doesn't matter when you inevitably fuck them up.

>>96631993
I think that anon can actually paint.

>>96630192
Jaffa kree!

>>96632001
While I wouldn't recommend the more expensive brushes here, the cheapest brushes around will be nothing but an exercise in frustration and self-harm.

>>96631594
Very nice. I would do something on those flat panels on the front, personally. Maybe some spikes or skulls. I think some mounted heads/skulls would look killer on the middle section of the scorpion tail. Chains could be cool too.
Also, if you're doing a gang of Chaos bikers, you should make one Akira sliding

>>96631484
nice
did you do something to his neck? or is it a print with the head scaled a little bigger than usual or something? something about it looks a little more classically sized

>>96631484
what sucesor chapter is thism

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Shoulderpads are on.

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Last dude finished.

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>>96633699
And the final group shot.
Enjoyed this project very much. Got some productive sculpting practice in, and really worked out my creative muscles coming up with all the ways to make these dudes feel like proper LoTD.

>>96633575
Excellent work, as always. But blend the legs black/metallic towards the hoofs, I beg of you.