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File: file.png (5.45 MB, 2560x1702)
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Work in Progress, Taco Tuesday Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

>Previous Threads:
>>96732099
>>96714857
>>96689200
>>96666221
>>
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I'm going to spend a few hours cleaning this guy up. A lot of smoothing stretched flesh chaos greenstuff
>>
Anyone have any experience sculpting extremely small details? I have a KDM mini with a miscast nose (tip of the nose is missing) that I want to fix cause I'm not digging the snake/voldemort look
>>
>>96751046
Try your best with greenstuff (or whatever else) but remember you can fix a lot of tiny details with paint. You can flub the geometry's look a bit if you need to if the sculpting isn't perfect, so long as you have the overall shape kinda right.
>>
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Simple quick paint up for fun
>>
how the FUCK do I stop doomscrolling and start painting 30+ miniatures a month?
>>
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>>96751088
with THIS simple trick!
>>
Airbrushing water based paints sucks
I wish EU didn't have that stupid VOC ban
>>
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Looking for a little advice with this daemon engine I threw together
I feel like the shoulder/shoulderblade area needs bulking out in some way to make the silhouette look right but I just dont know what would work or how to go about it
>>
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>>96751088
do the "paint after work/before sleep for 30-45 mins and do one step" thing. Don't play video games every night. Mix it up - it's mostly good habits. Suddenly you're painting 5-10 hours a week and have a few late nights.
>>
>>96750788
dark tone is black
strong tone is brown
>>
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Bit of terrain I'm working on.
>>
>>96751149
The lone and level sands stretch far away...
>>
>>96751117
I think my biggest issue is lack of space, I don't have a dedicated painting setup so every time I want to paint it's 30 minutes of setting up a space, getting all my gear together, etc first
>>
>>96751027
Did you make this from scratch?
>>96751082
neat
>>
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>>96750857
Finally done with this Chaplain, right on time for the spooky month.
Added a sword to turn him into that new black templar chaplain variant that I cba to buy at the moment.
>>
>>96751126
Forgive me for not googling, but why would I choose one over the other? Does dark/black give shading/shadow/depth and strong/brown give a more dirty, realistic look?
>>
>>96751098
It sucks, but you can still learn to make it work.
>>
>>96751108
The arm with the melta thingy definitely needs to be bulked up, the shoulder plate just looks out of place. The easiest way would be a different bit because that one is super narrow. Do you have the hind leg shoulder plate from the Fiend kit?
I think you could leave the claw side alone because it looks like an arm and you would get some cool asymmetry like a crab
>>
>>96751392
For miniatures yeah, but I also like mecha stuff and that's just impossible
>>
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Thought I would show a practical comparison between normal sidecutters and the "nail clipper" style that I posted about in the last thread. I forgot to mention how the cutting mechanism is fundamentally different. Sidecutters have a shearing effect, they are similar to scissors in that their cutting action is not done with two blades that are parallel for the entire cut. Imagine how scissors close down and cut paper. While conventional sidecutters aren't exactly the same, the same principle applies.

The nail clipper style provides an evenly distributed cut, there is no angle between the two blades it is perfectly parallel for the entirety of the cut. Think of how a snapping turtles jaws shut.

Here is an example. On the left you have the boar attached to the standard head, on the right a steed.

The boar was cut off with the nail clipper style precision cutters, and the steed with the conventional sidecutters.

You can see the precision cutters are more suited to detailed cuts and small pieces. That's what makes it great for conversions, cutting delicate pieces etc. note the string of plastic left between the boars feet. I wasn't exaggerating when I said these things cut down to the precision of a human hair.

Another quick tip for a tool some might find in handy: brass/steel spears. They work great for creating a pilot hole for drilling gun barrels. I used my hobby knife blade tip, and id center it and create the pilot hole that way. Had more than my fair share of close calls doing that. It goes against everything practical with regards to safety using razor sharp tools.

The other day I had one of my brass spears sitting there and was going to drill a barrel and I gave it a shot to see if I could use them instead of the hobby knife blade to create a pilot hole. It worked very well. Made a few handled ones with balsa wood and glue. One perpendicular like a corkscrew, and the other vertical, like a pen. Would recommend for those who drill barrels a lot.
>>
>>96751389
black is usually the default choice for everything, brown can give you more rusty looks on metal for example, warmer shadows, you can use it for wood, leather, rocks etc

some colors may not look good with a black wash, think a face, a light (diluted) brown wash will give it depth but a black one would desature the skin color too much and you might not want that

get both, experiment, down the road you might find you also want other colors, or decide that you can make do by mixing other paints with a bit of water and flow improver
>>
>>96751384
no, it's a recast of a forgeworld model from 2000

>>96751149
keep it up
>>
>>96751098
You think Mr Paint is water based? Alclad2? Tamiya and Gunze's lacquer lines? You think there's nothing resembling a VOC in lacquer thinner? Plastic cement? Printer resin?
I mean, your brain has clearly had more than enough of perky organic compounds already, but still. If you think you can't get stuff that isn't water based in the EU then you obviously haven't looked past FLGS, if that.
>>
>>96751088
By setting realistic goals.

30 minis a month is a stupid goal unless your work is slop.

Aim for two a week. That gives you 3 paint sessions per mini and one day to masturbate to your loli waifu.
>>
>>96751310

Nigger I move all my shit to my kitchen table and it takes 5 minutes to get set up.

Water jar, wet palette, lamp, vortex mixer, bring a box of paint or three down.

Stop scrolling while you do it and you can get it done much faster.
>>
>>96751427
Yeah bulking that shoulder up would probably help
Sadly I don't have the fiend bits, I just picked up some spares from ebay but I''m sure I can find something
>>
>>96752103
Forgot to say thank you too
>>
>>96751466
>It goes against everything practical with regards to safety using razor sharp tools.
buy a vise. how can you call yourself a man without a bench vise?
>>
>>96751097
Words of Wisdom
>>
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Repost from last thread, didn't realize we were already on page 10. Hoping to get a bit more of him done tonight.
Should I stick with green gems or mix in some blue or red ones in his beard to spice things up a bit?
>>
>>96751583
>You think Mr Paint is water based? Alclad2? Tamiya and Gunze's lacquer lines?
Those are mostly military colors so if you need anything more vibrant you're kinda SOL, in Asia those are covered by Gaianotes (anime figs) and Finishers (car colors) but those are illegal in the EU due to toluene contents (hence the VOC ban part)
>>
>>96751466
Insightful. Thanks!
>>
>>96752135
>Should I stick with green gems or mix in some blue or red
Stick with green. Full rainbow on a single mini rarely looks good.
>>
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Here's a snek I finished up, just need to do the basing when the varnish is dry.
Do you all think that dark green grass tufts would work for swamp grass?
>>
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A frog princess in progress, not sure if I should change the orange feathers to a different color
>>
>>96752622
Is this a mini I can buy?
Also she has corin vibes.
>>
>>96752103
You got this anon, keep being creative
>>
>>96752630
I dont think so but twingoddessminiatures has lots of gobbos including a maid i think
This was meant for the goblin thread, I'm sorry
>>
>>96752651
nta but she's cute so it's fine
>>
>>96751310
You dont have a desk?
>>
>>96751310
I dont either. I have an art cart and a few draws of art supplies. I break out a work area each time I work on a project.
>>
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Im trying to learn a bit more about airbrush usage but I honestly don't understand how I'm supposed to build shades layers with it. I keep failing to reach sufficient visible contrast. Here I used "Archaic Turquoise" first, then "Aquatic Turquoise" and finally "Snow Blue" but it barely shows and paint gets into deeper areas even when I keep airbrush at high angle. Sure, it covers quickly but I feel like I have barely any control at all. With brush, these three colours would be starkly different to each other.

Plus, it's a bit annoying to spray few bursts and having to stop because compressor keep reloading itself. I thought that 3L tank would be sufficient for longer. It even sometimes reloads when I don't use airbrush at all, just leave it laying. I checked connections with soap water to find any possible leak but without success.
>>
>>96752854
try preshading
>>
>>96752696
Not a desk I use exclusively for painting, no
>>
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I'm thinking GW needs to scale things better. I've updated my Regiment to something larger. I may go bigger too.
>>
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ended up doing 3 pins each wing. Attaching now. Going to gunk greenstuff in there
>>
>>96752854
>I keep failing to reach sufficient visible contrast.
Just like when painting with a hairy stick that means you're either using too similar paints, or you're not putting paint A in this spot and paint B in that spot but somewhat equal amounts of first A and then B all over the place leaving no differences to create the contrast.

>and paint gets into deeper areas even when I keep airbrush at high angle
If you want to be specific about where the paint ends up then it's time to move in closer, and maybe a smaller nozzle. If you simply blast away all over then, yeah, the paint will end up all over. It isn't really like a (reverse) wash that's going to get drawn into recesses (onto the raised edges).

>Plus, it's a bit annoying to spray few bursts and having to stop because compressor keep reloading itself. I thought that 3L tank would be sufficient for longer.
You really shouldn't need to stop while the compressor re-fills the tank. The tank should initially be filled to a much higher pressure than you paint with, and you have a pressure regulator on the outgoing side to dial stuff down to what your want to airbrush with. As you paint the pressure will then drop of course, but the compressor should kick in and push it back up long before it gets down to whatever you have the pressure regulator set at, and it should be entirely capable of doing so while you keep painting. (Some airbrush compressors don't have a tank at all, all the "air buffer" you have there is the hose.) If you have to pause because the compressor just can't keep up then you either got a shite compressor, or an airbrush which in scale model and miniature painting terms is a high airflow one (useful for basecoating things like 1/350 battleship hulls, 1/32 jet fighters, etc, but extreme overkill for a 32mm miniature) that therefore demands a higher airflow from the compressor than your average mini-painting-one can deliver.
>>
>>96753027
Poor guy there could really use some moisturising skin creme.
>>
>>96751149
Very believable stone, looking good.
>>96751386
That's a beauty
>>96752135
Personally, I think you can sneak in one more color for the gems. Both red and turquoise would work I think but I'd go with red myself.
>>96752587
>>96752613
Lovely minis, I really enjoy seeing your work. Usually swamp tufts use these more desaturated greens but you could always just drybrush that on yours. Also, I like that orange for the feathers. If you want to go further maybe you could spice it up a bit with a transition to red, yellow or even blue?
>>
>>96753027
how do you line them up on both sides?
>>
>>96753097
Doubling up on pinning is a good technique. You basically drill 2 holes, place in short paperclips that barely poke out of the holes. Then dab each end with paint and then dry fit the two parts together. Then you can tell where to drill for the other sides. I'm using a few pins that are over 2.5 inches so each side is around 1.25"

Now what I have to do is clean up this sort of bad recast. Lots of gap filling but I have to make it look like stretched skin and chaos flesh so it should be easy - just a lot of work overall.

The base is going to be rocks/dirt/yellow tufts. Norther warriors of chaos looking.
>>
>>96751386
holy shit I didn't see this. pure sex, anon.
>>
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>>96751386
fantastic head. Really clean, I like the golds and his left leg/foot
>>
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I need some clownspiration.

I’m planning to paint some Harlequins soon and I’m either gonna go full black and red Harley Quinn or this sort of red and green look.

Anyone got any sick painted Harlequin pics?
>>
>>96753364
I get that those panels are a realism thing but they look so ugly in a very bad way.
>>
I want to give up. I kept thinning paint for airbrush even to the point where it would be almost runny water - and it would still clog. I would take off cap, wipe needle, put it back on and blast at tissue with full force - it would spray but stop anyway seconds later. When I decided it's enough of humiliation for today, I took it apart for cleaning and needle literally had section with dried layer of paint. And when I tried to look at YT, I keep running into sometimes mutually exclusive advices.

>just spray at 2.5bar, it won't clog
>nooo, you must spray at 1.5bar instead!
>you don't need flow improvers and thinners, just add a lot of water but not too much, you must guess how much is too much
>you actually do need flow improver and add just little water so it won't be runny
>don't hold trigger, don't use trigger limiter (that screw on the back), just press and pull back and forth in pulse movements in precise control, remember to do reverse perfectly or you will splash next time
>no, just hold it but keep it moving

And so on. I'm starting to think I shouldn't touch it at all.

>>96753035
Still, thank you for suggestions. As for compressor - it should be sufficient (23L/min), airbrush too shouldn't be too demanding, but again, don't know who to listen anymore since Jose Davinci (who over and over shows that he knows the stuff) explicitly says I should give compressor a break when he refill the tank.
>>
>>96753811
If you end up with dry paint on your needle it means there's air around the needle. It's either faulty seals, not enough paint in the cup, enough tip dry to block the nozzle or shitty airbrush.
>>
>>96753095
Thank you! That's always nice to hear, and I appreciate the idear. I think I'll try the feather color transition
>>
>>96753848
So basically everything, including already damaged it while cleaning so far. But, to be honest, it could be blocked nozzle you mentioned since paint that dried was not the one I started with - at first I sprayed four colors from AK and it was fine, what dried was Vallejo (new) Model Color I tried later.
>>
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>>96753811
>>you don't need flow improvers and thinners, just add a lot of water
>>you actually do need flow improver and add just little water
I'm sorry to say it, but you've been receiving really shit advice, man
Just use a proper thinner. Using water as your main diluent is just not ideal (particularly if you're just using neat tap water, rather than filtered), and is probably the reason why you're getting clogging
Thin your paint in a separate cup or something rather than straight in the airbrush cup, at least until you get a feel for a good consistency. The old cliche is to thin it to a consistency of skimmed milk, but it basically just means to thin it to the point where you could drag some paint up the side of the cup and most of it will run down off the inside leaving just a thin glaze behind, rather than sticking to sides in a thick coat (picrel to give a better idea, this vid also shows the idea nicely using lacquer paints, but exact same principle applies to aqueous acrylics https://youtu.be/upKvY0s4lWA)
1bar to 2bar pressure is about right at that level of dilution for getting clean layers
>>
Hopefully last WIP before I finish this guy. Though I still haven't taken the backpack off the sprue even. Part of me thinks I should have just filed down the backpack attachment point and had him just wearing a coat. Backpacks are always so tedious and overdetailed for what they are, it makes them feel like such a chore.
>>
>>96751386
much sexo as always, BTanon.
>>
>>96751046
I recently dropped my Skaven Greyseer and it landed on its nose. Plastic was flattened to where the tip was gone. Put a dot of sprue goo on the flat area and the little dome it made the small pool actually did the job without having to any work after
>>
>>96753811
Just go with Vince's good old 8/2 thinner/flow improver and then just 1:1 with paint and 1:3 with primers. Compressor 15-25 PSI.
Otherwise, if you are unsure who to listen to, I recommend watching basic videos from HS, it's unironically the best advice/tutorials on the subject, zero bullshit and memery.
Setting up, using, and cleaning the airbrush is extremely easy and simple. If it is not you are either fucking something up/have shit or faulty airbrush.
>>
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>>96752636
I honestly dont know if it's all coming together or all falling apart
I'll look over it again in the morning
>>
>>96754072
Yeah, figures I fucking something up, like I usually do. Everything everyone do without issues I always manage to fuck up. Always.

Why everyone keep talking about this PSI anyway instead of using bars, anyway?

>>96753933
At my first attempt at using it, I kept adding small amount of flow improver and thinner and it didn't clog that time. This time I used water instead and while AK was fine, Vallejo was drying rapidly. I saw so many people using just water and thought that I'm simply wasting money here.

So, using Vallejo cleaner is safe too and it won't destroy all seals and such?
>>
>>96754268
>So, using Vallejo cleaner is safe too and it won't destroy all seals and such?
Nah, it's harsh enough to strip paint but not enough to do any damage to the airbrush
>>
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>>96754226
Not sold on the melta on the shoulder
I'd trim that shoulder plate to have curves. Chaos stuff has more curves because it's supposed to look more organic than the imperial hard lines of industry
>>
>>96754268
The most likely situation here is that your airbrush is just dirty and you aren't cleaning it effectively between uses. I bet if you ran a harsher chemical through it like acetone you'll see a ton of gunk come out.

You should be able to airbrush pretty much any dropper bottle paints right out of the bottle. It might be easier to get thinner coats for filters or effects etc. with thinning, but it shouldn't be strictly necessary.

Another not-commonly talked about issue is pulling back on the airbrush trigger without pushing it down all the way (doing it in 1 motion instead of air then paint), that's more of a paint results issue, but then the other part is running air through the brush without paint, it will cause really bad tip dry.

Instead of overthinning your paints as a crutch, at least for >0.3 needles, try and get a vallejo paint (not white, because that's just kneecapping yourself) and at most mix it with a 1:10 ratio of flow improver and no thinner. It will help you figure out what in your use or technique is causing the clogging problems.
>>
>>96754268
>Everything everyone do without issues I always manage to fuck up. Always.
Naw, your airbrush might be fucked, too. It happens.
>Why everyone keep talking about this PSI anyway instead of using bars, anyway?
Because it's easier and more exact to say 25 PSI rather than 1,7231 bar.
>So, using Vallejo cleaner is safe too and it won't destroy all seals and such?
NTA, but yeah, it's safe. That said, I would recommend Medea airbrush cleaner. It's odorless, works really nice, and you can get it in fuckhuge bottles that will last you a lifetime. You can also just use IPA.
>>
>>96754369
It'd be cool if we could all start using kilopascals.
>>
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Just the metal parts left and some weathering before jumping on to the shield and horse.
>>
>airbrush cleaner
don't let yourself get scammed by this shit. vallejo airbrush cleaner is $12 for 200ml on scamazon. a 1 gallon can of acetone is $21 at home depot.
>but muh seals
you can put acetone through a good air brush no problem and the savings on cleaner alone will make up for the cost difference between a good one and a cheap piece of crap
>>
>>96754427
airbrushes are literally made with the expectation of running lacquer paints through them, and people are like
>but if I wash it with acetone quickly and rinse it out it will ruin it!

It's like driving your car to work every day and then when you need to take it to the mechanic's for something you're like "Well I don't wanna put the extra miles on it, I've gotta go to work every day, after all".
>>
>>96754427
I use airbrush cleaner because it's odorless and works perfectly. I also bought 1 liter bottle ages ago and I still have around half. Feels kinda silly to get this worked up because of like eight dollars.
>>
>>96754443
the problem is fearmongers getting people to treat themselves like children who can't be trusted not to drink their paint. I've worked with 2k type paints that you have to clean with acetone every time because otherwise they will harden on the needle and then the only way to get it off is by sand blasting and it's no big deal.
>>
>>96751310
I lacked a dedicated hobby desk for a couple of years. I made a box with everything I needed to paint, and a box with everything I needed to build and prep models. When I wanted to get started I'd move the whole box onto a table and have all I needed within reach. I used a sheet of baking paper to protect the table from paint spatter. Setup was like 2 minutes when you include getting water.
>>
>>96754323
Got you, thank you anon . I may put the melta on its own little arm or something. It just felt like it needed something ranged
>>
>>96754483
>Feels kinda silly to get this worked up because of like eight dollars.
It's especially funny since we're painting very overpriced plastic yet people lose their shit over trivial garbage like this or a bottle of paint being a dollar more expensive.
>>
>>96754369
I'm little too scared on IPA potentially destroying rubber seals but I do use it on needle when it's out and parts that do not have seals on them. Likewise I'm too scared on using that cleaning needle I got with ramrods and use partially destroyed 0/4 brush instead. Brush itself was working just fine so far so I doubt it suddenly got faulty today. But thanks for tips.

>>96754351
To be honest, when I took it apart and removed that paint from needle, I also used cleaning rod and after flushing some water, it did removed some dried paint lumps too. Overall I have no idea why AK paints were working without any issues and suddenly that Vallejo dark violet instead caused tons of problems.

And I indeed have problems with proper trigger motion and most probably frequently stop air before I move trigger back to front position since I also frequently "spit" the paint. Stupid question incoming - why insisting on using dual action system then instead of single one? I keep hearing "because you control both air pressure and amount of paint" but you press air fully anyway and blow with full force, instead regulating pressure on compressor.
>>
>>96754491
You just gave me a great idea. Let's invest in a paint company that makes 2 part coats, and tell miniature youtubers they exist and are the best primers, even better than lacquer (it doesn't matter that that's not true because they're too thick, shhhh).
My hobby store's black mr. surfacer stock still hasn't recovered from the vince video and it's been like a year or more.
>>
>>96754394
>It'd be cool if we could all start using kilopascals.
That's what the nips do.
>>
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>Cayway sells these 4, 15g each for 15 bucks
>for the exact same price, GSW sells 1g worth of leaf litter
What's the catch here folks? I know trainchads have it good but this is a bit absurd
>>
>>96754518
1 gallon of vallejo airbrush cleaner would cost $227. the difference between that and 1 gallon of acetone is $206. an iwata eclipse only costs $170.
>>
>>96754583
Does acetone even work for water based acrylics? I tried cleaning my airbrush with hardware store thinner after spraying contrast paint once and the paint and thinner mixture coagulated into a nearly impossible to remove gunk
>>
>>96754523
>why insisting on using dual action system then instead of single one? I keep hearing "because you control both air pressure and amount of paint" but you press air fully anyway and blow with full force, instead regulating pressure on compressor.

Couple of things.
>because you control both air pressure and amount of paint
not *really*, in single action you control air pressure but not paint (which can still be fine, especially for base coats or priming or large things). But for mini painting, even just priming in a lot of cases, you mostly want to control the paint flow, the air control just kind of incidentally comes along with that in dual action, but is absent in single action. There is at least 1 brand of airbrush (don't remember what) where they have a "dual action", according to them anyway, airbrush that is only 1 trigger motion where as you pull it it starts the air and then once the valve is open all the way the rest of the motion starts and increases the paint flow.

As for why dual action is the standard in general, just for base coats it probably doesn't need to be. The only problem I have with my single action is that it's siphon fed, which is fine for priming, but bad if you ever want to be switching paints. And it's worth noting that these problems don't exist in paint types outside of water based acrylics. Water is the weakest solvent and the tiny bits of instantly drying paint aren't re-activated by the paint itself as you keep spraying, they just build up. Lacquer (probably enamel too but idk, even tamiya's alcohol ones are fine though lacquer is just the most extreme example) paints instantly re-activate any tip dry for example when you pick the brush back up, so you can do a quick spray to make sure it doesn't splatter on the first spray, and then it's good again, if you tried that with acrylic it will just sputter and get even worse.
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>>96754621
it should work for about anything. acetone is one of the best solvents that doesn't give you cancer.
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>>96754583
NTA and you can call me poor but reminds me how since my phd days I still instinctively count everything in either 1 or 3 months of public transport ticket or single meal at university (which nowdays is nicely scaled to said ticket, costing 1/10 of 3 months one). As such, 200ml of Vallejo cleaner is little less than single meal, my current airbrush was worth 5 meals and H&S Ultra was demed too costly at 2 three months tickets or 20 meals (Infinity would be worth 5 x three months tickets or 50 meals.

...I really should stop.
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>>96754398
I like his hat, the chipping on the pattern's very nicely done
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>>96754670
my most powerful solvent, which I assume definitely does give me cancer is a mix of
>~1% benzene
>~10% acetone
>~10% methyl ethyl ketone
>~20% methanol
>~20% xylene
>~50% or remainder toluene
(Those don't add up to 100, it's just rough)

I'm sure it's killing me, but boy does it melt everything instantly.
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Alright anon how do (You) store and transport your painted miniatures?
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>>96754727
I don't.
Probably not the answer you wanted though.
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>>96754635
Okay, I got it. Come to think of it, I still have my grandfather's (single action) airbrush but cannot connect it to compressor due to incompatible and non-changeable plug. Bummer.
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>>96754733
Well I’m sort of the same that’s my problem. I keep them in plastic storage containers but there’s too many and while I put them down base first it’s not really secure so they inevitably will get damaged.
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>>96754621
>Does acetone even w-
yes. it is the solvent of the gods, no matter what you're cleaning it JustWerks. nobody knows how it works but it cleans up both oily residue and water soluble stuff, it is a miracle but it cleans everything. be careful using it for household cleaning jobs though it is pretty aggressive and might fuck up surface finishes on things and will fuck up certain types of plastic but for cleaning your tools or metal surfaces it is the undisputed king. don't listen to these fags that think acetone will immediately dissolve rubber seals and orings, these are the same safety redditors who think aerosolized acrylic paint is as bad as nerve gas
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>>96754583
>1 gallon of vallejo airbrush cleaner would cost $227
Anon what the fuck. 1 gallon of Medea is like 23 bucks. https://www.iwata-airbrush.com/medea-airbrush-cleaner-gal.html
And it will last you forever. What kind of spergery are you committing here?
>acetone
Sure, it works. It also smells as fuck. It's such a redundant idea for acrylics anyway, why even.
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>>96754766
>these are the same safety redditors who think aerosolized acrylic paint is as bad as nerve gas
Tbh that depends on the paint, the ones most insistent on PPE tend to be gunpla fags spraying like 50% toluene which is genuinely harmful, or 2k auto clear which will put you in the hospital
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>>96754815
Yeah but asians can be trusted to wear a proper respirator. In america you'll have people spraying toluene through their airbrush while wearing a bandana over their mouth.
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>>96754833
>asians can be trusted to wear a proper respirator
you have never watched asians paint then
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>>96754853
Listen, just let me hate white people, okay? It's all I have.
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I want the /40kg/ subhuman leakage to go back.
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>>96754923
I don't have anything to talk about :(
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>>96754502
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=19A99oPB-Aw
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>>96754573
Train stuff is usually pretty low quality and a smaller or different scale to what we want. However, it's often worth trying anyway because your alternatives are usually stupidly priced.
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How do I get back into painting a model (or modelS) that I have had on the sidelines for a long time?
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>>96755262
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z26VEUFGroQ
is this a good video?
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>>96755387
>Use This Hack
no, it's not
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>>96755387
>2 minutes in
>still autistic rambling
Really trying my patience here, man. This hack better be good.
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Hey boys, me again. I did up the next suit with a black undersuit, adding an extra color like some suggested and going with the studio concept of black=inactive stealth field. It works pretty good, especially as a team leader.
Putting a bit of brass on the widgets with the one-color suits, however, made them look much better to me so I think I'll keep them like that. I've got one more xv15 and an xv25 to paint in desert colors, and then 3 more suits which I'll try a forest camo for.
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>>96755492
Those recess washes just aren't working for me still. They are too messy and inconsistent. Maybe try them the gunpla way. Throw your paint down, then gloss coat the mini and put an enamel panel liner in them, then matt varnish finish. Those acrylic washes just don't have the right consistency for it. Either that or you do it a couple of times to darken it and then spend time cleaning up the rough edges which will probably take too long.
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>>96755513
I should probably use my paint retarder to keep them wet for longer so I can make them more consistent. I'm thinning down black paint to a wash consistency, but having to do it over and over means it's not the same 100% of the time.
I should probably do what I did with some of my whites and just run water directly into the pot and make the entire pot a wash. That's worked for me once or twice.
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There is a planet in /mysector/ called Bastio. It's a water world with moving, floating hive cities. It's a little different from normal hive cities because the lower the level, the more prestigious and wealthy the residents. The surface is fairly flat and highly radioactive. The aquatic life is monstrous and mutated. Pirates and such attack constantly (think Waterworld) and giant bunker buoys from lower levels shoot out of the water to fend them off kilometers from the hive. The mid tier levels have flooding and severe gang warfare (think bioshock). They either fight aquatic horrors, mutants, or each other. The lower levels are dry, brightly lit, and secure. The rulers of the hive live here. Pomp and circumstance, possibly fish people, etc. They'll often open an airlock, let a horror beyond belief run rampant in the populous, and hunt it down to 'save' the people and reaffirm their loyalty.

There is also a feature that all hives on the planet have. A giant tube running all the way down the hive. A lot of people have moved into the tube for various reasons. Entire cities have been built (think favelas lining a giant missile silo) in the tube. Billions of people. The tube is an anti-orbital laser weapon, which is used my my lore. The first shot atomizes everything in the barrel and doesn't perform like it should, pissing a noble off. Turns out all those people and structures reduced efficiency by 15%. He scoffs and fires another shot.

There are subnautical knights fighting off cthulus, guardsmen in "Fathom Armor" similar to big daddies patrolling the levels, mutant shark people rampaging, etc.
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>>96755547
why are you torturing yourself instead of just buying a wash?
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>>96755547
the problem is not the consistency it's that you're putting it on like paint instead of a real wash. it should just be wicking into the panel lines and then you clean up any overrun with solvent. the way you're doing it just looks like you tried to carefully paint the lines by hand.
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>>96755547
Water doesn't make a wash, it makes diluted paint. Use a wash medium.
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>>96755680
I deserve to suffer
>>96755688
>the way you're doing it just looks like you tried to carefully paint the lines by hand.
Is that not how you apply recess washes? What do you mean solvent?
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>>96755692
God I love coming to this thread for advice there's a whole goddamn planet I've been missing out on
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>>96755706
I can't tell if this is a sarcastic comment or not.
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>>96755701
There are two ways to do recess shading.
1. Using acrylic washes. You paint the recesses with a dark wash, then clean up any overspill with the color around it. A pain in the ass if your scheme is bright (white/yellow).
2. Using enamel/oil based panel liners. You gloss varnish the model, use panel liner and then clean up with white spirits. Easy and fast, the only complication is having to varnish the model beforehand (or the cleanup process will damage the paint).
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>>96755713
It's very much not. Genuinly there's stuff people use and do that I have no idea about. Aside from you guys here and the odd video on the tube I'm flying blind
>>96755720
I'm trying this right now.
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>>96752029
>3 paint sessions per mini and one day to masturbate to your loli waifu.
Why are you addressing me? I didn't even say anything this thread.
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>>96755732
Look up videos on how to use Tamiya panel liner. There are tons of gunpla examples.
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>>96754573
all 4 @15g for $15 is a great price, even if you can get them for free, the effort to dye and cook them is worth the $15
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>>96755749
Okay lemme take a look.
That ink didn't work at all. Pitch black and less controllable than watering down the acryllic.
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What's the biggest model you've done without an airbrush? At a certain point it feels impractical to paint a model with just a brush because of how long it would take just to get the base coats down. I think the biggest I would go at this point is maybe one of the newer dreadnoughts or like a corpse cart in AOS. And the biggest model I'd attempt even with one would probably be a knight. Fuck titans, those things are scary to think about painting.
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>>96755769
tallest, at least. In terms of surface area the cerastus knights measure up slightly.
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>>96755769
>What's the biggest model you've done without an airbrush?
This brass scorpion. Spray primed black and drybrushed with leadbelcher for the base color.
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>>96755769
Years ago when I started I painted a couple of gunpla with a brush. It's not fun. But I also didn't do a whole lot with them. Just slapped one colour on each part.
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>>96755701
the normal way to do panel lines on vehicles and gundams is to dab your wash into the lines and then wipe off anything that isn't recessed with a qtip soaked in solvent. this makes them look clean and mechanical instead of painted on. the other way is with a panel lining marker. trying to free hand it with a brush will always look messy and painted on.
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more progress
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Probably done except for the backpack now.

>>96756125
Really nice job on the flag/banner/thing.
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>>96750857
> Scale75/Avante Garde is having a sale
> everything is nearly sold out
> they began using AI slop for promo material
Are...they dying?
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Its hard to show just how much work this is taking but I need to share it with someone. Im slowly cleaning up this busted up forgeworld avatar, puttying the edges and cleaning up the shapes. I think I am on my 10th or 11th putty session. Its such a fucking cool model and Ive always wanted one, but man the old hand sculpt really fails in certain details when you are used to the modern cad precision.
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And some closeups of the repairs. Sculpting these fine edges is incredibly hard. Each one is a multi-session job, first you have to just get the putty in the space you want (and getting it to stick to such a tiny surface is really hard) then you can sand it to make a framework and then apply more layers of putty. The sword is currently on 5 different layers of putty just on the outer edge, the inner edge is on 3. The organic details of this sculpt are so fantastic but all the inorganic armour such as the trim and the blade are just not good.

The worst part so far was fixing the details on the left pauldron which were all wobbly looking (like you can see in the front one), that probably took 3-4 hours alone, with the trim repair and straightening taking about the same time but over multiple sessions of buildup and sanding/filing. Its coming along smoothly though, probably 2/3rds done. Main things left are front pauldron details and finishing the blade.



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