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Work in Progress, "Battle Chess" Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

>Previous Threads:
>>97386959
>>97360110
>>97342526
>>
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WIP Secret Santa archives

>2025
https://imgur.com/a/I2xxkxJ
>2024
https://imgur.com/a/g7MfJE5
>2023
https://imgur.com/a/e9QOmJJ
>2022
https://imgur.com/a/2OWxHpg
>2021
https://imgur.com/a/TKfeLxU
>2020
https://imgur.com/a/TeduVrJ
>2019 Rebuild
https://imgur.com/a/YmQGN1S
>2018
[UNDERGOING RECONSTRUCTION]
>2017
https://imgur.com/a/qS7PH
>2016
https://imgur.com/a/1fxhq
>>
WHITE PRIMER IS FUCKING IMPOSSIBLE TO USE
fuckfuckfuckfuck
>>
>>97402452
>Another carefully built model ruined by the fickle god of white spray primer
Correct
>>
>>97402452
I have never had a problem with the tamiya white primer
>>
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Test model for an eldar project
>>
>>97402452
use ligh grey and if it becomes spackled, dry brush white on
>>
>>97402491
That works.
>>
How much success do you guys have with just one single layer of straight contrast paint?
>>
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>>97400660
Yes, then you adjust your levels in program of choice. The whites in the bg can blow out as much as you want, but you get to decide at what point the white highlights on your model start to go.
>>
>>97402493
is light grey much easier than off white?
>>
>>97402745
>How much success do you guys have with just one single layer of straight contrast paint?
Appropriately, Blood Angels Red over a white undercoat makes a nice starter for bright Second Edition red Blood Angels, but cleanup afterward with Evil Sunz Scarlet is essential.

Baal Red is just a really intense red Contrast paint. I find it less useful for basecoating Blood Angels than Blood Angels Red (duh?), as I find myself going back and adding shadows afterwards with Agrax Earthshade anyway. At least I don't have to fiddle so much with the basecoat's viscosity.
>>
>>97402847
>but cleanup afterward with Evil Sunz Scarlet is essential.
That's what worries me. I'm doing metallic burgundy for my thousand sons, so it looks like I'm stuck with two thinned coats.
>>
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For a bit of variety boshed together a couple of xenos mercs for my corsairs - a Kroot with dual machetes and a Squat with an arc welder. I figure the Kroot's along for the ride and free meals and provides handy corpse disposal, whilst the Squat provides percussive maintenance and help with his arc welder 'WD-40' - if it doesn't move, he can make it move.
>>
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This guy still needs a lot of work, but I'm happy with my progress so far.
>>
>>97403011
The paint on the face achieved the visual effect well. def. touch up that tricep though.
>>
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progress!
did what anon recommended with a grey glaze and a thinned wash on the back of the helmet and armor.
he looks better, thanks bro.
>>
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Pouring ardcoat on a very large base, 24h later. The white ish hue of the ardcoat is still there, unlike with smaller bases where it becomes fully transparent.
But it gets the job done of "smoothing" out the base. Its not like I'll be doing this again, anyway.
>>
>3d printing and painting terrain with fdm printer
>saving for SLA printer to print minis to wargame with
>find a bunch of coomer statues
>download hundreds of gigs of them in a goon fueled haze
wtf is wrong with me it's not like i can print and display them. i'm otherwise a normal functioning member of society. i would survive the shame of having them be discovered but it would cause irreparable damage to my self esteem for someone to know how much of a loser i am
>inb4 they know
not to this extent
>>
>>97403293
>That blue and orange keying

Sonofabitch that's great.
>>
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European bros... Does this skin color work for Spaniards or does it look too Mexican? I have never met a Spanish so in my head I picture Mexicans (unfortunately)
>>
>>97403484
Spanish people look white anon. Basically like Southern French/Italians.
If you want, you can just do pale arabs. They have pink hues like other white people, even if they're tanned.
They can be blondes, or with light brown hair too, not always black hair.
>>
>>97403484
looks too yellow-ish to me honestly, think of southern europeans as permanently tanned white people
>>
>>97403484
Well, he's got a heavy tan I guess.
>>
>>97403484
Bro looks like a Guatamalan lmao
>>
>>97403484
Mexicans are Europeans mixed with Natives Americans. >>97403515 is right, they're whites with permanent tans.
>>
>>97403515
>think of brown people as permanently tanned white people
...that's exactly what they are, though?
>>
>>97403057
I might redo the arms entirely, now the you mention it. The back looks worse than the front.
>>
>>97403568
Yes anon that is true, I was trying to help him visualize it in his head better
>>
Sorry to derail whatever this is, but do any you guys have experience with making moulds yourself for some simple copying? How's the quality? Specifically asking in relation to some gw shields and stuff.
(Yes I checked the mega, only talks about the "how")
>>
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Is this skin color better?
>>
>>97403619
there's an anon that racasted some busts lately, maybe he can pitch in because I have no fucking idea myself
>>
>>97403624
Absolutely, you could probably go darker but it's fine already
>>
>>97403619
I was able to take the top of a Dark Angels landspeeder and make a blue stuff cast for milliput copies as terrain (rooftops). for a simple, one-part cast, it worked very well, no grain or bubbles.
>>
>>97403619
Bubbles are a major problem with casting so unless you want to invest in a pressure pot you'll have to be ok with filling in defects yourself
>>
>>97403619
>shields
oyamaru + greenstuff might be sufficient. I'd at least give it a shot. stuff the shield face down into the oyamaru to make a mold, cram greenstuff into the mold, and wait for it to harden before removing
>>
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Got the second goober done, and they size up nicely to the others. Bits order for the ranger finally shipped, so hopefully that turns up soonish.
>>
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>>97403512
>>
>>97402491
Cool. Axe wielding elves are cool
>>97403011
Very cool, bare armed is a great look
>>97403242
Yeah that's good. Looks old.
>>97403293
Beautiful
>>97403624
This is better
>>97403868
Madman
>>
>>97403624
The skin color is good but the painting itself needs a lot of practice
>>
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These are still Wip and basically just dry brushed but im not going to spend crazy time on them other than highlighting and cleaning up+ base but any tips on making the fleshy bits look more fleshy? Or the colours in general? Not sure how i feel about it.
>>
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>>97403619
this was recasted with a bluestuff mold and filled with gs+milliput mix
>>
>>97403950
Well, I agree, but also three things: they are game pieces, not shelf models, I'm painting hundreds of them, and also they are much much smaller than your Warhammer figures and the detail are much finer. Not saying you couldn't do better, but it is a bit silly when guys painting 45mm tall space Marines with huge flat surfaces compare themselves to true scale 28mm historicals
>>
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>>97403619
>>97404051
this two were quick tests before i knew what i was doing (ie before reading the method in the op)
>>
Why would anyone ever use white primer? Just build up very thin layers for bright colors over dark primer. Shrimple as that.
>>
>>97404070
>>97404051

Related question - when I tried making my copies of various parts, it would always ends with copies being more or less but always bigger than originals. I would insert enough material to fill each half of the mold each time (not going over) plus thin "sausage" over one half to connect them together. I honestly don't understand why this happens. Unless I shouldn't press too much the halves during creation and later making copies. Using C-clamps by the way and Lego blocks for making box.
>>
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I genuinely think I hate everything ive done here, and not even just from a skill issue. I think the whole composition is terrible. Should have stuck with power armour.
>>
>>97404083
>dude... why would you use a white primer... when you could use a black primer and get the same results but with more steps
>>
>>97402747
thank you for this, anon
the visual is helpful
>>
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Some progress on the base. I decided to go with a shamanistic ritual site that I think will fit Legio Fureans.
Will have to add stuff sticking out from under the footsteps here and there, to make in look more natural.
>>
>>97404224
wait hold on how big is this thing for the skulls to feel so small
>>
>>97404083
Why would anyone build up layers when they can just prime in a color closer to the end result?
>>
>>97403619
Seconding the recs for oyamaru/bluestuff molds for single bits. Greenstuff is works but you can also mix some milliput in to make it sandable too.
IMO proper resin casting only makes sense if you are making a hell of a lot of bits/whole models. It takes a decent amount more prep and some ppe aswell (not to mention a pressure pot if you want to avoid bubbles).
>>
>>97404231
Just under 25cm tall.
>>
>>97404260
trying too hard buddy
>>
>>97404260
bad bait
>>
>>97404260
Is this some type of bait?
>>
>>97404003
You run a dildo production line? Sweet.
>>
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>>97404153
i personally really like this anon, very cool silhouette with a nice line of action and i like the colors as well
>>
>>97404260
I don't even paint
>>
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>>97404260
Yes.
>>
>>97404292
Thank you anon. Im going to stop looking at it now for a few days and come back with fresh eyes. I just think the green and yellow didn't work for me.
>>
Thanks to everyone who answered my question about moulds, I appreciate it a lot. Especially the guy that showed his own shield, worked out very nicely (+ good taste). I hope you all have very good weeks anons
>>
>>97403868
>Wraithdolph with your nose so gun
>Won't you guide me in our fun?
>THEN ALL THE CORSAIRS LOVED HIM~
>>
>>97404153
He needs a hat
>>
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>>97403512
>it*lians
>white
>>
>>97404403
t. Paco Sanchez
>>
>>97404488
nah, they ban you for trolling outside of /b/ :)
>>
>>97404488
bad troll no cookie
this is not a games thread, stop shitting it up
>>
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>>97404260
>>
>>97402201
I have a question. I'm looking to get my first airbrush, but I have lingering damage from a reattachment for my index (tried to stop some cunt from playing silly fucker in a woodshop) Would I be better served with a pistol-grip, or am I better off just sticking with brush-priming?

As said, just for priming. I doubt I'll be pulling off any fancy stuff.
>>
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>>97404555
you can defo go for pistol grip, there's tons of great airbrushes with that feature (so I've heard, don't actually own any), but you can also just control the trigger with your thumb instead of your index if that's easier.
Picrel is how I sometimes/often hold my airbrush.
>>
>>97404555
I dunno, personally I use my thumb on the trigger.
>>
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>>97404555
>>97404609
You even have other options for thumb grips.
This one is a bit weird and I don't use this grip personally, but it doesn't feel so bad in the hand. Maybe a bit imprecise but that should be fine for priming.
>>
>>97404555
People paint with all kinds of fingers. Thumbs are common, even such masters of the airbrush like Giger used mostly his thumb. Though he could paint with his middle finger, too.
>>
>>97403484
Depends, is he from the Cantabrigian north (Galicia, Asturies, Vasque country) or the Mediterranean south (Andalusia, Murcia)?
>>
>>97404502
>posting something you don't like is trolling
How's that $0 paycheck treating you?
>>
>he's STILL trying
kek
>>
>>97404768
They're painted as 18th Burgos, which are from Northern Spain
>>
>>97403484
he looks middle eastern to my eye, the nose and moustache remind me of Saddam Hussein
>>
>>97404946
So he looks Spanish then.
>>
>>97404965
Correct-ish.
There are two kinds of spanish, the half arab kind and the pure german kind.
>>
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more blood angels for the golden throne
>>
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>>97404946
Damn
>>
>>97404102
>Using C-clamps by the way and Lego blocks for making box.
i do the same when filling and never noticed a difference in size, havent properly compared looking for that but it wasn't readily apparent, it can end up a bit thicker if you overfill, but only in that dimension
when making the mold i only apply presure by hand if that helps, so not too much
>>
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>>97403619
I cast my herald's face and feet using InstandMold, liquid resin, and a UV flashlight. That method could definitely work for shields or something you only need to recast one side of.
>>
>>97405191
An excellent kitbash.
>>
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Almost done with little Quar tank, gotta get the lense done then figure out the basing. Reasonably happy with how things are going
>>
>>97405209
Base texture looks great, but also
>basing tanks
Repulsive
>>
>>97405215
It's only Based if it's based.
if your unit isn't based, it's terrain.
>>
>>97405215
I wasn't sure about basing it. Just kind of felt like it was missing something before I gave it a base
>>
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>>97402958
Made a start on the Kroot, mostly working out a scheme. Reckon I'll go for a pastel orange/peach with a fade to red towards the hands and feet.
>>
>>97405241
What? Since when do kroot work for eldar?
Serious question requesting a serious answer, this isn't bitchy sarcasm.
>>
>>97405245
No idea, but it doesn't seem unreasonable that some Eldar corsairs would end up with a Kroot, they're mercenaries after all.
>>
>>97405259
Fair enough, I like yourdudes breaking conventions, but why not stick with standard kroot dark/forest green? it'd look wonderful with that blue.
>>
>>97405270
If by standard you mean the current GW scheme, that's a pastel green or khaki/bone/thing. Eh, wasn't feeling it so went with pastel orange with a red fade. Seemed more interesting to me, but the GW ones are going to be painted better by miles, I'm a bit pants of painting flesh.
>>
>>97405286
Ew, I was not aware they'd toned them down,, I guess the term I'm looking for then is "classic"
Just constructive critique, It seems like the orange path is going to draw a lot of visual attention away from the rest of the corsairs.
>>
>>97405297
No worries, I get where you're coming from. Eh, we'll see how it all looks when he's done I guess.
>>
>>97405231
Basing a tank makes it a diorama, not a game piece.
>>
>>97405307
anything on the game board that is not on a base is terrain and I will take my minis off and play someone else if you try to argue against it in-game.
>>
>>97405209
Eyy that's looking great.
>>
>>97405215
a base to a miniature is like a frame to a painting
>>
>>97405314
You don't play games
>>
>>97405307
>tyranid carnifex
>basically a bio-tank in size and purpose
>on a base
oh no my diorama bug!
>>
>>97405454
The only game I don't play is "do things exactly how GW instructs"
>>
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>>97403868
I had a plan to do the classic robots at wraithguard scale. Very nice. Tbh it might be cool to release like a squad of them as guardians. Will pirate them up.

Here's what I have done of the pirates, just need to throw up some more poses and the support platform, presupport, then done.
>>
>>97405642
Nice, though the dark colours on a dark starry background mades it harder to see them.
>>
>>97403242
nice! glad I was helpful

>>97404003
could go inside me?

>>97404153
paint over it
>>
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Progress on my ashen elder. Flames are pretty fun to paint yet extremely time consuming. In using 4 to 5 colors with mixtures between them just for the smooth transitions and I'm still not all that happy with the results. Guess I just need practice. The lighting here doesn't help either but trust me it looks a bit better than this shows.
>>
>>97404609
>>97404618
>>97404620
>>97404666
I see, thanks for helping out guys. I'll keep looking into it and keep the images in mind.
>>
Don't know how I feel about the sword. Want to keep it dark for contrast but the effect feels flat.
>>
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Glad I lightened the skin, I didn't want them to look like Mexicans.
Finished these 10 guys start to finish today, now like 200 to go. I'll do the bases once all are done
>>
>>97405824
These models would be so cool if it wasnt for the fucking retarded tactical rocks
>>
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Just about done with this snail! Thx for the silver shell suggestions, the washes did it pretty well with blue, brown, and green.
For Helga, I'm thinking blue robes with white marguerites and cream trim.
Thoughts?
>>
>>97405893
What's your problem with them?
>>
>>97405923
Going golden blonde or platinum blonde on Helga?
Or perhaps orange?
>>
>>97405940
Why would a giant ass specific rock follow your troops around the table?
>>
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>>97405947
Golden/ yellow orange similar to this
>>
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>>97402201
Oh man, a general I can relate to. Friend's birthday is tomorrow, so I'm painting a mini for his custom chess set.
>>
>>97405988
THIN
>>
Nigga
>>
>>97406025
Takes too long
>>
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>>97403441
>>
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>>97406120
with free 2 day shipping thanks to prime
>>
>>97403441
True, who would want display something with any nudity in their home
>>
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>>97405579
Check out my dioramas. I sure hope someone on the internet doesn't tell me to remove their bases.
>>
>>97405145
How did you do the lens on the rifle's scope?
>>
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>Apply coats of white-pigmented water for several half hours to finally get a smooth coat
>accidentally get one streak of black on the part that dries instantly
>>
>>97406255
im sorry for your loss anon. have you tried using a hair dryer to speed it up?
>>
>>97405209
how do you get that mud so chunky?
>>
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>>97406268
>>
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returning to a very old project I never finished. made some scenery. purple primer ran out. had to use black. Undecided what color to paint the space marines.
>>
>>97402201
What is some good color to start with oil washing?
>>
>>97405215
I'm putting my leman russes on bases because the height difference between the models standing next to them and the tanks because of the height of the base triggers me. It looks so much better as a display when they're actually proportionally correct next each other physically. Otherwise my immersion is broken and I see one as a real model and the other- a toy
>>
>>97406281
Old pot of texture paste that started to get a bit crispy
>>
>>97406307
i havent tried it yet but the few tutorials ive seen use it seem to pick the darkest shade that matches the primary color of their theme. make sure you use a high gloss varnish first. i think it was elminiaturista who said that a single tube of oil paint will last a lifetime of washes (hundreds or thousands of minis) so get the good stuff, i read the top tier line of winsor newton because it's everywhere with good selection of colors
>>
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>>97406175
i don't think i will gain the respect of my peers with this thing, and that's the sfw version
>>
>>97406307
sienna brown for a red muddy wash that works well to tint flesh or look like earthy dust, burnt umber for an earthshade type thing. black in my experience looks bad when you do the oil wash thing of applying it to the whole model, because when you rub it off it leave a faint glaze of black that's like looking through a filter and in other colors it modulates the colors interestingly, in black it just muddies it. So if you do use black use it deliberately in the recesses and not all over. And you can make a better black by mixing burnt umber with a blue.
But desu oil paints aren't that expensive and you need seriously tiny amounts to experiment. I've used the same tubes for years.
>>
>>97406329
are your peers really checking out your stuff?
>>
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>>97406324
>>97406332

Is this Winsor oils not good for making wash? The Winsor oil white tube are super expensive
>>
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>>97406307
My go-to is like 25:75 Ivory Black to Burnt Umber. It's a neutral color with a lot of richness that generally goes with most things. Pic related, I did the brown on the metal parts and I did Prussian Blue+ Black on their coats.
>>
>>97406307
>>97406343
I've tried oil washing with some generic black oil paint I bought at a dollar store and it worked pretty good, dried a lot subtler than I expected. Be aware that oils can take weeks to fully dry.
>>
>>97406343
"artisan" is the premium winsor and newton line. they have both standard oil and water mixable. the water mixable is apparently convenient but ive only seen pros use the normal kind and thin it with mineral spirits
>>
>>97406343
Winton is their cheap student grade stuff. Notice how it says "hue" on them, that's because they're made with cheaper pigment blends instead of the real deal. You'll get muddier colors when mixing them because of this, and they might separate and appear grainy if you thin them too much
>>
>>97406343
sure, but I don't think i'd ever use up that entire tube just miniature painting. I've seen and own smaller tubes for some reason but don't know where from. Painting on canvas that size is more applicable. And I'll also say I've never seen an oil paint that didn't have enough pigment for our purposes, you can mess around with an incredibly shitty set if you're worried about cost.
>>
>>97406343
>The Winsor oil white tube are super expensive
up here in canada it's ~10usd per tube but also buy 2 get 1 free so ~6.70usd. not too bad for what sounds like a lifetime supply of washes
>>
>>97403868
Anon how do you come up with such novel and well made kit-bashes seemingly so quickly? It takes me hours just to plan out how to begin cutting up a model. Do you make concept sketches? That voidseer from last thread is incredible, how did you come up with the ideas to reach into so many different kits. Are those all just leftover parts that you scrounge through and pick what you like? Or do you seek out kits for specific bits because you pre-planned it? Id love to know a bit of your creative process.
>>
painting scares me
>>
>>97406366
>>97406364
>>97406358
>>97406370
Oh well, i guess i will buy a few tubes of winsor cheap student grade first for testing. I should get titanium white, ivory black, burnt sienna, burnt umber, ultramarine and something purple/magenta?

>>97406376
1 tube of Winsor artist color cost 30 bucks in my 3rdworld country ;_;
>>
>>97406394
that makes sense, how much of a trek is it for you to get the paint? maybe start with just a couple in case the student grade is particularly bad or pick some up from different brands if you have options. i keep seeing people say that student grade oils are particularly bad for washes but that may be oil paint snobbery
>>
>>97406394
I'd say get just 1 or 2 tubes of the cheapest umber or black you can find to start, see if you like it, then get some more paints or better quality paints if you are into it. Windsor newton is a slightly premium brand, even if it's their student grade stuff.

>thinners
you can get both white spirit and mineral spirit from a hardware store far cheaper from a hardware store than an art supply store, as long as you make sure it's not adulterated with dyes or other weird shit.
>>
>>97405215
to be fair the Fynrydhad tractor is so small it might as well be put on a base
>>
>>97406303
are those stormtroopers upscaled 6mm stuff?
mind posting a pic of them? I was thinking of getting them like that too
>>
>>97406415
>i keep seeing people say that student grade oils are particularly bad for washes but that may be oil paint snobbery
As I said here >>97406366 cheap oil paints might separate and look grainy and ugly if you thin them too much. I've had this happen multiple times myself with my cheap black oil paint but never with any of the good stuff. Picrel, not my photo but it's the same shit going on here.
>>
Am I a bad person if I only ever do slapchop? I'm afraid to do anything more complicated but I also feel like if I don't I'll be stuck at the same painting level forever.
>>
>>97406485
Forgot to include pic
>>
>>97406485
no, you are only a bad person because you call it that
stupid buzzword
>>
>>97406392
Accept failure. It's a crucial part of the process to get better
>>
>>97406502
But there is a spider on my paint rack
>>
>>97406467
Can you just wipe off the grainny paint with sponge?
>>
>>97406523
OH SHIT RUN
>>
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>>97406440
they are upscaled, search for "6mm Empire Star Army Dragoon." I like that the design seems to incorporate elements from multiple generations of stormtrooper/kasrkin sculpts. The Space Marines on the other hand are scaled down from normal size sculpts.

Years ago I tried modifying the STLs to add more specialists, but I didn't get very far.
>>
>>97406485
Bad person? No.
Coward? Certainly.
Being scared of paint is not manly, anon.
>>
>>97406526
Yeah you can, but it's annoying to deal with and if it dries like that in a hard to reach area you're screwed
>>
>>97406543
yeah they look alright in 15mm, I think I'll do that too
thanks
>>
>>97406565
>>97406467
Well, so it's the same with acrylic washes, but cheaper and you have plenty of times to fix the mistake?
>>
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>>97406307
I use about 1:3 Ivory Black to Burnt Umber as my general purpose wash, similar to >>97406347
>>
>>97406577
You could say that yeah. They're also more versatile. You can get streaking grime looking effects if you drag the wash downwards with a brush or a sponge when removing the excess. Or you can do dot washes for the same look but more controlled. You can also glaze with them very easily.

Btw, just a lil' heads up. Army painter Fanatics and their speedpaints do not go well with oil washes. At all. Be extra thorough with the varnish before oil washes if you're gonna use AP.
>>
>>97406605
you should always use a layer of varnish before and after the oil wash anyways IMO
>>
>>97406605
I have never use contrast, speedpaint because they're too expensive
>>
Finally wrapped up my 5-man Ultramarine Terminator squad. I probably watched, like, 6 terrible movies on Tubi while tackling these.

Anyway, still experimenting with the best ProCamera photo settings when taking pictures within my lightbox but I’m getting a bit happier with the results (if only the black rims didn’t come out gray due to the exposure). It’s been a fun exercise in photography while doing these.
>>
>>97406705
youve got too much bounced light from the lightbox. look how bright the edges of the mini that face the light box compared to the center mini that's facing the camera. i'm guessing trying to properly expose the chest blows out the shoulders/limbs?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YlkzRE33Lb0&t=73s
>>
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>>97406329
The social acceptance of coomerism is a direct relation to the acknowledged skill of the artist. Its like a shield, allowing you to brush it off as "its art above their level".
If you can paint like that you can even get away with kingdom death on display. Its when the skill is low does it get cringy.

When I was in undergrad my sculpture teacher would do this thing where he would hide cameras in the 'sensitive' areas of his sculptures. So the audience would go through the exhibit and look at pieces, then in the next room it they would find themselves looking at pictures of themselves looking right into the naughty bits.
>>
>>97402452
What problems are you having? It's fickle, yes, but I prefer it to black. If it's graining, just let it dry completely and give it a brush with an old dry toothbrush.
>>
You know what bugs me?
If I went back in time 25 years I would unironically be the best miniature painter in the world, at least as far as mainstream wargaming and golden demon go. But instead I'm forced to live in the tryhard era where I'll never be as good as the current masters are no matter how much effort and practice I put in.
>>
>>97406784
>imagines how good he would be if he started 25 years ago
>can't imagine how good he'll be in 25 years
anon you deserve better
>>
>>97406784
25 years ago you'd be reliant on word of mouth or magazines to learn new techniques. Getting good nowadays is far easier than it used to be in the 90s
>>
>>97406784
Painting's not a competition, anon.
>>
>>97406797
Forums existed back then, as well books on painting miniatures. You are right though that it's a lot easier now due to access to information and better products being available, and for me personally, also not being a dumb kid helps too.

>younger me used unthinned paint straight from the pot
>and then slathered unthinned inks straight onto the models
>literally owned a copy of pic related
>but never took painting seriously enough to learn a damn thing from it...
>>
>>97406784
25 years ago you'd still be comparable to scale builders. All the mini painting pros just use techniques from that area.
>>
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Finished the second 5 man batch of my Terminators, now I can finally work on a vehicle again.
>>
>>97406784
I'm an mma athlete and its even worse in this side of the world. 25 years ago I would unironically be a serious international lightweight fighter, if not world champion. Fuck it, even welterweight. Today I am a mid tier amateur. 18 years old kids have so much skill and resources now to be a threat 10 years ago.
All that because we had the past masters to copy and learn from. We stand on the shoulder of giants.
Its the same with painting. We can all be golden daemon winners with what we paint, but we would never reach this level without the innovations and lessons of those who came before us, and whom we surpassed.
>>
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>>97405756
I thought the same thing, so this morning I did some render tutorials.
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>>97406829
No they don't. They use techniques from regular painting.
>>
>>97406381
Cheers. I don't make concept sketches, I just usually take a part I like the look of and think would fit an idea, and then rummage around several bins of sprues, bits, old projects etc and grab a bunch of stuff that looks like it's go together well. Then it's usually 10-30 minutes of dry fitting, seeing what looks good, then the chopping begins etc.For the most part this is from stuff I've bought long ago because something looked cool, or stuff from gifts etc. For the corsairs I've done 2 bits ordered purely for individual gubbins I like, then I build around them.
>>
>>97406604
Looks way better than the paintjob GW uses to market it.

I still think the mini would look better overall without the wings.
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>>97406957
Thanks for the kind words!
I also prefer it without the wings. That's why I magnetized them.
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>>97406705
>>
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Are there any websites that I can search for models painted in a certain colour? I want to paint some Eldar Exodites in a yellow ochre like Bonemold armour from Morrowind (picrel). Rather than look for specific models, I just want to see anything in this colour.
>>
>>97407016
Wouldn't google images work?
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>>97406976
it shoudl have been a giant crocodile instead of whatever that is
>>
>>97407016
>Look at model
>Look at color
>Combine the two in your mind
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>>97407042
It shouldn't even have been a mount desu.
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>>97407050
not with that spine and howdah for sure
>>
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>>97407063
That's why the Sphinx is a much cooler mount, even if it's worse rules-wise.
>>
>>97407045
kek, but I always find it helpful to look for inspo.
>>
>>97404003
>any tips on making the fleshy bits look more fleshy?
You can use some gloss medium with your paint and gloss varnish to add a watery fleshy disgusting effect to it, but it's important to not put too much of it on your models
>>
>>97405145
Trash
>>
>>97406750
What a dumb, gimmicky thing to do. Your sculpture teacher and your post are equally pointless.
>>
>>97406784
No one asked and no one cares lol
>>
>>97405893
I'd prefer them without but I do like they incorporated the magic effects into some of them.
>>
>oil paints debate
Nice. Threadly reminder that this one of those few rare things where saving money is not a bad idea. Cheap (that is, student grade) oil paints, when used for washes, shading, weathering/etc. and not actual canvas painting, work completely fine. Dedicated scale modeller oil paints like Abteilung (now AK Abteilung) are, in fact, a student grade oil paints. You don't need fancy Artist/Professional grade to make washes.
Generally speaking, the most important difference between Student vs Artist/Professional grade oil paints is the quality/amount of pigment, consistency and coverage.
Consistency and coverage doesn't matter too much; coverage is largely irrelevant for our needs, consistency as well; we are not blending large scale canvases. Which leaves us with the pigment; now, most student grade paints tend to dry a bit muddier, less vibrant than artist grade, which is actually good thing for washes/dirt/grime/etc. You are not looking for perfect vibrancy either.

So, if you want to make sure and don't want to think about it too much, just get Abteilung oil tubes - Burnt Umber, Burnt Sienna, Titanium Black and some offwhite color like Dust will be enough for 90% of your washing needs. You can also choose the opposite approach; get CMYK/RGB tubes of some high quality artist grade oil paints (like Norma from Schmincke) and mix your own, it's very easy and there are fuckload of guides about it.

The only thing you don't wanna do, is to buy the shittiest, cheapest oil paints from literallywho companies; these will fuck you over and are not worth the money.
>>
>>97407068
yeah

>it's worse rules-wise.
youguysplaygames.jpg
>>
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I'm scared of airbrushing
I'm scared of oil paints and washes
I'm scared of varnishing
I'm scared of pigments
I don't like using transfers
I don't like leaving translucent parts unpainted

I just believe in solid coats of paint, drybrushing, washes and the odd highlight
>>
>>97403484
Looks Moroccan desu
>>
>>97407309
>I'm scared of much simpler, much more forgiving techniques because daddy GEE-WEE never talks about them
I hope this is a bait, for your own sake.
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>>97407327
nta, but those don't look like gee wee models
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>>97407336
Yet they are.
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>>97407327

It's not about GW at all actually for me, I am much more ingrained in some indie scenes than you might think.

I think it's because I'm seeing the people around me start "painting" like this and everyone else clapping and saying how daring it is. What is daring now is to actually paint a whole army like a normal person.
>>
>>97407327
why does gw live rent free in so many people's heads lmao
>>
>>97407344
What model is the left one? It's not GW at all
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>>97407353
What is daring now is to paint using craft paints.
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>>97407353
>airbrushing, oils, pigments, varnishes, and transfers are something new
Are you retarded, anon?
>paint a whole army like a normal person
nvm, it's just a retard shitpost

>>97407354
>posts gw minis
>posts the most basic bitch gw method
it's a great mystery
>>
>>97407368
What? Other than terrain I'd day using craft paints is just tying one hand behind your back

Acrylic paints intended for miniatures aren't that expensive really and you'll have a much more pleasant time painting your armies.
>>
>>97407198
They don't sell AK product or Abteilung here. The only oil paint i could find are Winsor student and artist, Holbein, Pebeo and Mont Marte
>>
>>97407359
Not that anon but you are correct, it's The Marshall from Black Tree Design.
It's from their Dr Who range
>>
>>97407398
W&N will work fine. If you are getting their student grade paints (or any student grade paints, really), make sure to put the oil paints on a piece of cardboard (or similar porous material) for ~two hours prior using them, to get rid of all the linseed oil. You don't have to do this, but it helps with drying speed quite a bit.

You can also always get AK stuff from their website, they ship worldwide, afaik.
>>
>>97407408
thanks man

shame Black Tree UK are an absolute joke to order from
>>
>>97407423
Are you using the EoE site?
I have had no problems but I'm also in the UK so that might be why
If you are american I think the good place to get them is mindtaker
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>>97406784
and in the next 25 years you will be able to print fully colored minis so this entire hobby will die out anyway
>>
>>97407440
Nah I'm UK, they just have an absolutely awful reputation for orders taking months or years to turn up to the point I'd never order from them.
>>
>>97407445
Just like scale modelling died with 3D printing, right.
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>>97407397
its probably craftsperg, ignore his ramblings
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>>97407452
Oh that's shit, I have not heard that before
>>
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>>97407466
Reminds me. There was an old guy at my FLGS who was using test pots of Resene paint to paint his miniatures with. It became enough of a local meme that a guy who sold them just gave some to the owner so he could lock them into a 'forbidden' chest.
>>
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>>97406485
Well you have to make a decision then. Preshading, zenithal highlighting, or "slapchopping" was a method created to maximize the quality to time ratio. So, do you want to be "pretty decent but could be better" forever? Because you have that option. People make fun of slapchop, but people who do it exclusively will have a fully painted army vs. the person who takes a month on one model. It's up to you to decide what you value. These are some easterlings I painted about 20 years ago. I could have stayed at that level forever. It's a hobby. Nothing is stopping me from painting with glossy model car paint from the dollar store forever.
>>
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Oh boy it's time for GEMS
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>>97406485
why do you paint?
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>>97406485
Your models will look like shit, sure, but it's better to see shitty looking "slapchop" models on the table then the average 40k gamer which is unpainted grey tide
>>
>>97407988
These look so gay compared to the old ones with a giant head and shoulder mounted weapons
>>
I have some questions.
What’s the idiot proof way to file off unwanted raised details on hard plastic models?
How are the Ak interactive acrylic washes with the blue caps?
And how are the new P3 metallic paints?
>>
>>97406150
Why is it more expensive for me lmfao
>>
>>97408093
What kind of raised details, something on the level of a plastic purity seal?
Just gouging with a knife is the most common, I guess you could sand it if you really don't want to risk pockmarks.
>>
>>97408106
Leaf/kangaroo dollars vs Orange Man dollars?
>>
>>97406123
Then this abso-fucking-lutely is not a "general you can relate with"
fuck outta here faggot.
>>
>>97408124
Yeah like a purity seal.
Knowing myself is probably be retarded with the knife so I’m wondering about other methods of removing such raised details.
Sand paper grit number for the job?

I plan to carefully use clippers to nip most of the raised details off first then sand but I am just wondering if there is an easier and more idiot proof method.
>>
>>97407159
Not dumb, it would be a display on the dichotomy of social presentation of their opinions on these things vs their subjective desire to see these things.
But it's fake and gay, cameras that could actually be hidden are way too expensive for anyone on a teachers salary to afford, especially in quantity and especially as an art teacher.
>>
>>97407466
whoever it is, your response only proves him correct.
>>
>>97407397
>aren't that expensive
they are 8x more expensive than the equivalent volume in craft paints.
>>
>>97408213
How many miniatures do you have that 17-35ml of each colour paint isn't enough?

I painted a whole company of Space Marines and used less than two pots of Nuln Oil. Every single leather holster wasn't even a third of a £2.50 bottle of Vallejo Cavalry Brown total.

You can afford that if you're buying miniatures in any way. And I say that as someone who mostly buys stuff hyper cheap at Bring and Buys.
>>
>>97408243
I've got to have at least 800 painted miniatures around the house.
>>
Don't respond to craftsperg.
>>
>>97408256
I just realized that I forgot about my pic collection and the three 40k armies boxed up to sell which will never be bought because they aren't current thing, so over a thousand.
>>
>>97408265
*epic
fuck.
>>
>>97408243
Dont engage this bullshit, pretty please. We have a good streak without pointless meltdowns, let's keep it that way
>>
>>97408275
i wont respond to the guy calling everyone a sperg so its okay.
>>
>>97408283
Your implication that the craftsperg orbiter is the problem and not the retard baiting these meltdowns is kinda cute
>>
>>97408283
t. craftsperg
>>
>>97407988
I would avoid doing it. Those aren't all gems, in fact the ones that are gems are pretty clear because they have little lips around them. Those nodes are just to break up the large, smooth surfaces.
>>
>>97408292
who's been in here using "sperg" like a shotgun on a duckhunt for months?
This time you're actually talking to THE craftaint anon, i've checked out the thread often enough since my last mini posted to see the obsessed loser is a nutjob, only once in all that time have I been correctly labeled and that's by random chance, I've seen what must be a dozen other anons slapped with the accusation including the first poster in this thread today to mention craft paints, some of them have gotten quite angry about it too.
I'm a busy guy, I've got cattle to deal with on a daily basis in the winter so I only pop in while I'm having my morning coffee and it'll be awhile yet until I have time to post any more painted minis.
Which is also why I prefer fast and cheap methods these days, I'm not spending every minute of free time I have painting minis when I have a social life and other hobbies to attend to, like bowhunting and fixing/modding my truck.
I'm proud of my craftpainting because unlike a lot of anons in this thread I don't compare myself to professional painters running youtube grifts for advertiser dollars, I engage with normal people in my life and those that do see my work are impressed because it's beyond what they could imagine doing themselves.
Oh and a couple threads ago I did post a mini, and none of you noticed it was mine.
>>
>he has a melty already
Impressive
>>
>>97408178
This general is for painting your miniatures, not diorama sloptuber artfags
>>
>>97407422
>You can also always get AK stuff from their website, they ship worldwide
>Cool a tube of oil is only 3.30 eur
>Shipping 30 eur
haha...
>>
>>97408350
you know after reading this it's really hard to fault the guy for calling you a sperg lmao
>>
>>97407397
NTA but wait til you realize there is literally no difference between craft paint and miniature paint except thickness. Just thin craft paint more and it's the exact same shit
>>
>>97408405
(you)
Now fuck off, you braindead queer.
>>
>>97408384
He is a sperg, but the other guy is too. Craftsperg doesn't post as often as craftspergsperg though.
>>
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>>97407988
yay gems
>>
>>97408380
I think they offer free shipping from like 100 euros.
>>
what's craft paint anyway? just cheaper (and worse quality for little detail painting) acrylic?
t. new
>>
>>97405209
I love it anon
>>
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>>97407988
I can't remember how many gems there were on this guy but it was A LOT and I painted every single one. I wasn't really enjoying it towards the end I can tell you that much
>>
>>97408475
Yes, acrylic paint meant for general crafts. The main issue is lower pigment density, which is also why it's cheap. It's fine for low detail terrain, like rocks.
>>
>>97408410
Nice meltdown, but you didn't actually refute my point because you can't. If you aren't able to engage in civil discussion maybe you should log off and take a break. Maybe go back to plebbit where you can down vote people you don't like to vent your anger
>>
>>97408579
nta but read the post above yours and fuck off
>>
>>97408579
>has melty as usual
>n-no u
lel
>>
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>>97408345
>>97408520
as much of a pain as it is I like doing it for my wraith units, though on the guns and equipment I leave some of them as just lumps like they're supposed to be.
>>97408412
Me brudda
>>
>>97408605
how did you get that marbled effect on the red, anon? stippling?
>>
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>>97408616
Yeah. By accident I abused a brush until the bristles started to bed outwards so I would coat it like a drybrush and then press it down and twist the brush for a swirly effect. I'd do 2 different reds, wash the whole model to blend it, and then drybrush the highlight. The guy who painted this model did it similarly with a smaller brush and a three color base.
After doing so many models the bristles now bend inwards and don't apply paint the same way. I'm not quite sure what to do. I have another brush of the same brand I can try to make into a duplicate but we'll have to see.
>>
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>>97406252
like a gem
>>
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Progress on mecha, arms are blocky for now but I want to first add shoulder armor and head before deciding on style direction. I still have a feeling that waist guard should be made anew and much shorter, now it dominate.
>>
>>97408243
Some people have simply elevated Getting A Good Deal to religion (well, a lot of people really,it's why Black Friday has become such a thing), and on that altar they frequently end up sacrificing plenty of convenience, dignity, and funnily enough a good pile of money as well.
>>
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Got the Kroot merc done, he's certainly brighter than the other corsairs.
>>
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>>97408930
Though he stands out, I don't think it's that bad. The shared blacks and spot blues help and his flesh kinda echoes the basing.
>>
>>97408937
I love that rockmen, could perform at some 70s band.
>>
>>97406750
Yeah I remember seeing some twitter posts by a guy painting nude garage kits and he was painting subcutaneous veins and shit on the girl's bare breasts. The amount of detail was insane. I realized the skill cap for painting minis/figures is mindboggling high
>>
>>97408937
It's very pretty, and the contrast is good.
Seeing that guy makes me realize that crocodile from the red corsair set is gonna be really popular
>>
>>97408937
these guys are fantastic anon has been great seeing them come together
>>
>>97408916
I like the way you think.
>>
>>97409002
I really wish GW stopped making marines and did more aliens.
They can make pretty cool aliens when they are not making slop
>>
>>97409031
Same.
>>
>>97409031
Because it sells, unfortunately. Paint fantasy if you want actually cool stuff and not the billionth iteration of a dude in power armor
>>
>>97409031
>>97409039
There are a million companies making cool aliens. if you ever manage to escape the GW plantation maybe you'll enjoy them someday
>>
>>97409042
Considering how well AOS sells, I think it's just GW being overly conservative retards as usual (it's the same reason why they are the only company that is still not using dropper bottles.)

>>97409061
Post some. In plastic, I can print whatever I want, but I'm more interested in plastic stuff.
>inb4 some absolute garbage from early 00s.
>>
>>97409061
>There are a million companies making cool aliens
not enough
>>
>>97408937
Whats with the Wraith guy holding a Maraca?
Also I need more pictures of the Chad Eldar
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>>97408964
>>97409002
Cheers guys.
>>97409127
It's a facegun. As for Chad Eldar, you'll have to narrow it down.
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First complete space marine.
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Done. I added a few drops of clear acryl for a melting snow look, isn't really visible sadly.
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>>97409146
congrats
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>>97409146
good job. Looks breddy gud.
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>>97409146
>Space marine
>primaris
>ultra marine
>>
>>97409216
Not in front of the kids.
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>>97409042
>Paint fantasy if you want actually cool stuff
But I want cool aliens
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>>97409146
very smooth paint application, lovely work anon
>>
>>97409225
Slap some necron and tau bits on lizardmen
>>
>>97409139
The Catachan looking Eldar, sleeveless one.
>>97409061
>There are a million companies making cool aliens.
Such as? In plastic though
>>
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>>97409240
He was the second guy done in the project. As buff as they are, those are dark eldar arms.
>>
>>97403619
>Sorry to derail whatever this is, but do any you guys have experience with making moulds yourself for some simple copying?
Yes
With practice, good mold release, and extremely meticulous mold-making you can get stuff good enough that you can pass it off on the official forums of a notoriously ban-happy company. If you can't afford a pressure pot, then using an extremely thin coat of talcum powder will work as a dry mold release. basically put a small pinch into one side of the mold and clap them together several times like you're cleaning an eraser. Wear a dust mask for that, shit's nasty. It dramatically reduces the number of surface bubbles. Slow, even pours, working with a slower-setting resin, and adding vent channels will all cut your bubble problems without having to get a pot.
>mold design
Find the original mold lines, use them as a guide. Pack the clay up to them and remember that it's better to have the clay crawl slightly down the mini (this leaves a thin rim on half #1 that you can cut off before casting the second mold half) than rise up along the edge (it leaves a rim on the OTHER half, which will tear out and leave a huge ragged line on the model).
When you prep for pouring the second half of the mold, especially one with a shaft or antenna, make sure there's no tension whatsoever on the model. Otherwise it'll snap back when you go to cast the second half. That's how you'll get ovaling. The easiest way is to pull the model once you've got the clay sculpted up, and drop it back in until it goes without pushing, and re-drag the moldline back onto it. Yes, it's a pain in the ass.
When you go to cast the second half of the mold, pull the master, clean the clay off. Gently clean the new mold half, trim any danglies on the rim, then apply your silicone mold release *before* putting the master back. Use an acid brush to spread it. Silicone will crawl through any gap and leave blobs in the other half. With release you can brush those off
>>
>>97408937
Are the base sizes 25, 28 or 32mm?
>>
>>97409301
32mm for everything aside from the weapon platform which is on a 40mm.
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>>97409301
Well, the War Walker and Starweaver are on bigger bases too.
>>
>>97409167
the fabric looks a bit flat, but otherwise it's good
and I guess that's not really concern when there are 10 of these on the table?
>>
>>97409363
That's something anons forget, in a group on the table, minis can look good with just a basecoat
>>
>>97409476
Imagine how good they will look with highlights and all that fancy shit though!
>>
>>97408405
There is definitely a range in quality from brand to brand.
Apple barrel is so shit it doesn't even cut it for terrain, artist set tube acrylics are almost like putty.
If you can find a brand that is decent, stock up, manufacture standards can change like the wind if material suppliers change their pricing.
>>
>>97409497
Missing the point.
Our standard close up photos of single minis or squads are the equivalent of judging clothing by looking at threads with a magnifying glass.
>>
>>97409545
You don't pick up a mini off the table to give it a closer look?
>>
>>97409606
This is a high degree of nogames.
Most people don't like others handling their minis "look with your eyes, not your hands"
>>
>>97409545
I feel like it's closer to looking at a painting from a distance and up close but I can see you're pretty desperate to start shit lol
>>
>muh tabletop
>muh games
I was wondering why there were so many retarded posts, /40kg/ subhumans are leaking again.
>>
>>97409642
I don't game in a hostile environment. Regardless, you can also look closer by moving your face towards the minis.
>>
>>97409667
I'm actually fairly sure it's the usual suspect, barely anyone in /40kg/ actually plays tabletop
>>
>>97409677
I'm pretty sure craftsperg is /40kg/ regular. It's definitely his kind of "people."
>>
>>97409642
>This is a high degree of nogames.
Go back to kilogram anon, no one cares about nogames here.
>>
>>97409675
And you don't think people are going to object to others shoving their head into the way of their game?
>>
>>97409686
Can you shut up about craftsperg already, you obsessed freak. Not every cunt in this thread is the same cunt.
>>
>>97409699
If it is to admire their minis? Never happened before. Where do you play anon? Jail?
>>
>>97409363
>the fabric looks a bit flat
yeah I was careful in using the marinejuice, next time I'll try a few more coats to make it more varied in shades.
Also yes, I have an insane amount of Death Units, except OBR, FUCK OBR skeletons, ghouls, vampires, and even the man himself
>>
>>97409710
The only people obnoxious enough to insist on it are despicable, though usually a request to touch my minis or interrupt a game are met with a "no" and accepted, had a couple dangerhair queer types make a stink about it before, but tgats out of the norm.
I preder not to play at lgs's to avoid it, I'm not out to show off to strangers, when i go out to play, its to play, socializing is left to getting drinks after, but the pub is usually where we play anyway, no table fee, just avoid wing nights, karaoke and sports events.
>>
>>97409706
NTA but it's ALWAYS
>craft paints are just as good as hobby or artist grade paints
>who needs highlights and shading, basecoats are enough for tabletop
>forcibly contrarian takes on everything related to this hobby
>if it's not a game mini it doesn't belong here
>multi-paragraph unprompted fake meltdowns
>"this is a place for nazis and chuds if you can't handle that go back to plebbit"
>desperately trying to change the perception of his previous meltdowns
>"craftsperg is your boogeyman"
>always starts around same time
>obvious samefagging
>ignoring anything that factually challenges his narratives
>will continue to shitpost for literal hours if engaged
I'm sure there's more but that's the gist of it. I'm not his orbiter but I've been here long enough to notice this shit repeating all the time.
>>
>>97409706
t. craftsperg
>>
>>97409758
You sound antisocial. There's no dangerhairs in my lgs, we share our enjoyment of the hobby.
>>
>>97409240
>In plastic though
NPC
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>>97402201
My first time working with rust effects and washes. I think it came out pretty well.
>>
>>97409794
You really think that's all one person? Yes, the quality of the thread goes down after work hours. That's to be expected.

>>97409795
Meds.
>>
>>97409794
I've shared multiple of those opinions itt and I'm not craftsperg, in fact I only come itt like once a month
>>
>>97409867
Nah, it is one person and that anon is right. It's always around the same time and it is always the same bullshit with the same le sneaky samefagging garbage afterwards.

>>97409879
What an incredible coincidence.
>>
>>97409858
I'm still not seeing cool aliens, not even in resin.
If they are in metal it would be better.
>>
Craftsperg is this generals Perrynigger
>>
>>97409893
I think that anon will never give us those millions of cool plastic aliens. I think he was just being a faggot.
>>
Where is niceanon
>>
>>97409902
it's hip to hate GW on /tg/, didn't you hear
>>
>>97409898
Probably the same guy
>>
Does anyone have experience using Elmers clear glue for a water effect?
>>
Yeah, it shrinks too much. Use gloss modpodge
>>
>>97409892
Why would the same bullshit around the same time be the same person and not persons?
>>
>>97409963
Meant to reply to >>97409942
>>
>>97409970
you're not fooling anyone buddy, finish your coffee and go shovel that mule shit or whatever instead of derailing this general
>>
>>97409970
>>97409795
>>
>>97409841
>There's no dangerhairs in my lgs
Well aren't you just lucky! But also note that anon said that happened twice and was very rare amongst most such situations being maturely accepted when "no" was the response.
>>
>>97409970
You can't argue with pubescent assholes anon, they'll just keep repeating the same tired lines.
>>
>>97410345
wow you took care of all that manure pretty fast
>>
>>97410345
>he is still trying
lel
>>
>>97410372
I hope you find craftsperg someday so you can ask him real nice to let you suck his dick
>>
>>97409974
I will get some, thanks!
>>
>>97409863
dope rat ogor anon
if i were to give a suggestion i think lightening the raised areas of the skin a bit could help distinguish the bare patchy areas from the fur
>>
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Picked up a box of the wargames atlantic giant spiders which seem fun, and boshed up a Warp Spider for my corsairs.
>>
>>97409863
The metal looks good, but it doesn't read as rust. you may want to stipple some medium red brown around the edges of the dark spots, and then a couple of smaller stipples of a brighter orange within those stipple areas.
>>
>>97410535
On a scale of 1 to 10 of slaaneshi daemonic possession, this motherfucker is an 11
>>
>>97409178
>>97409194
>>97409229
thanks. First time trying edge highlighting. think it turned out ok, though I could have hid the brush strokes a little better.
Usually dont feel the need to edge highlight since I do normal sized people in 28mm normally, but big plains of a single color are a good opportunity to try.
>>97409216
Yah, the starter kit comes with ultra marine colors.
>>
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Two hours to make such armour pieces, I really wish I could make basic stuff out of PS sheets faster. And I'm sure there is a simpler method for that than cutting flat panels, gluing side slopes at angle and trying to place one on the other.
>>
Reposting from the last thread. Besides the weapon, does anything else look like it needs work? I only consider the armor and cape really done at this point. Maybe the face too.
>>
what's the difference between ivory black and lamp black? ivory is white so why is it black?
>>
>>97410665
Ivory Black was made by burning, well, ivory. I assume Lamp Black was made out of soot.
>>
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>>97410653
i just cant with how stupid those fangs look. I need proxy heads for my Soulblight gravelords
>>
>>97410653
Face looks good, the only stuff that's a bit flat is the weapon and maybe the bone. Hard to say cuz it's quite satin
>>
>>97410665
>>97410730
Ivory black has a warmer undertone while lamp black is colder and more opaque. Both have a relatively slow drying time. Lamp black also dries a bit more glossy than ivory. I personally love lamp black for shading steel cuz of it's colder tone and glossy finish. It keeps the steel a tiny bit shinier. I usually make two washes for steel, one pure black and one mixed with some kinda brown. Then I just slap them around and get some nice tonal variation to my steel shading.

https://youtu.be/uvmEg6m3UtI?si=rX5hFDJsLcoHyXIt
>>
>>97410808
I hear people talk about x paint is gloss and y paint is matte all the time. why does it matter when your final look is going to be whatever your clear is? also if oil paints are made with linseed oil does that mean I should handle them like linseed oil I use for wood finishing?
>>
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>>97410648
>And I'm sure there is a simpler method for that than cutting flat panels, gluing side slopes at angle and trying to place one on the other.
Not that I'm aware of. But there are tools/scale model plasticard to make it faster. For example, DSPIAE sells plasticard with pre-printed scale so that you can cut it faster, they also sell fuckload of types of plasticard cutters, etc.
>>
>>97410853
I don't do a uniform varnish/top coat at the end anymore, I usually do it in multiple steps throughout the painting process. I'll for instance paint skin, cloth and other matte details first, gloss varnish, oil wash, gloss varnish again and then matte varnish, then I'll paint the metallics later and wash them separately. In my experience metallics are quite durable and don't need a protective top coat, and I don't like the uniform satin look for orks. Ork skin looks weird like that. Same with my catachan dudes. A uniform satin varnish works well for some armies like the anon who does lizardmen, skellies, admech and thousand sons, but not for mine.

I have no clue about wood finishing lol
>>
>>97410742
Just remove them.
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>>97405824
What minis are these?
>>
>>97410749
I'm unhappy with the weapon too. I'm really trying to get it to look like Sauron's mace but I'm struggling. The bones still need highlights, I only hit them with a few washes so far.



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