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File: weird_trio_WIP_banner.jpg (1.23 MB, 2560x1608)
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Work in Progress, "Wherever there is suffering... we'll be there!" Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

>Previous Threads:
>>97445262
>>97429963
>>97412677
>>
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WIP Secret Santa archives

>2025
https://imgur.com/a/I2xxkxJ
>2024
https://imgur.com/a/g7MfJE5
>2023
https://imgur.com/a/e9QOmJJ
>2022
https://imgur.com/a/2OWxHpg
>2021
https://imgur.com/a/TKfeLxU
>2020
https://imgur.com/a/TeduVrJ
>2019 Rebuild
https://imgur.com/a/YmQGN1S
>2018
[UNDERGOING RECONSTRUCTION]
>2017
https://imgur.com/a/qS7PH
>2016
https://imgur.com/a/1fxhq
>>
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the mechs the guy was sperging out about at the end of the last thread are pretty cool. I used a reductive technique and then a highlight and it was pretty easy for batch painting weathering.

I'll post the step by step.

First step. mix isopropyl and tamiya gunmetal for the primer
>>
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brush on ofc. iso thins it and helps it dry fast.
>>
>>97467441
You admitted to the accusations and now you're dragging shit from the last thread into the new one first thing?
Anon was right, you don't belong here.
>>
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>>97467448
I admitted to posting nudes but everything else is BS.

step 2 tamiya salmon red
>>
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step 3: 2 layers are better than 1
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acrylic fluorescent orange, proacryl maybe? this step you can be a lot messier with
>>
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Army Painter v1 blood red or slaughter red, whichever one is the right colour. I can't get that name right.

I like that paint because it's water soluble for a while (days) unless you put it in a dehydrator. they "fixed" this with v2 but it was my favourite part about the paints ;w;

I don't recommend their newer paints at all, they're all shit.
>>
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then the last-ish step is to take a stiff dry-brushy type brush with isopropyl and gently hit the edges to reveal the previous layers
>>
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then just do the rest
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I didn't finish this one cause I wasn't gonna run it in the Solaris thingy
>>
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ok I hope this was helpful? idk
>>
>>97467637
i like the cockpit glass and shimarin pinup
>>
>>97467493
You are out of your mind if you think AP 1.0 was better than the Fanatic series
>>
>>97467929
>shimarin pinup
stop
>>
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Ok finished the pomel, I made it by chucking a 1/8" rod in my electric drill and filing it down like a lathe. Super pleased with how it turned out. I did mess up the coil right at then final glue step but I was able to fix it.
>>
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And just for fun here is a "before and after". I actually had two of these kits, and while I did pick the best parts from each I have to say the sword basically looked like the one on the right. Im particularly happy with the repairs to the serrations near the end. And this gives you an idea of some of the trim repair: if you look at the elbow on the right you can see how the trim is completely destroyed.
>>
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And here he is all put together!. Finally all built. I did just blue-tack on the tabard for now, as much as I hate sub assemblies this is gonna be the time. Ill probly find one or two things that need touching up while I finish the base but it feels so good to have it in an actually finished state.
>>
>>97467988
>>97468028
I'll be honest man, i just woke up when i saw the first post and I thought you were showing off how you painted it
I thought it was odd to do it in such a small section but thought it looked great
I understand now and it's a really good repair job
>>
>>97468028
How did it get damaged in the first place?
>>
>>97468045
So given the texture I assume you're going to follow GW's instructions and just slop contrast paint all over it?

Also, tonight's update. Tried mixing skin tones from CMY and it went about as you'd expect. I got kind of close to the skin on my thumb, but it looked awful on the test model. Too ashamed to post it. Back to the drawing board.
>>
>>97467975
You little slut.
>>
>>97468192
I can tolerate a nazi posting robot pictures with his dick in the background. But I will not tolerate lewding Rin.
>>
>>97468074
Ha yeh, "look guys I painted red". But thanks anon.

>>97468121
This model was very short lived, even on forgeworld. I think the master must have gotten damage, it has a lot of very thin parts. And I bought it off ebay so im not even 100% sure its authentic, but it had the correct shaped sprue gates, correct color, and smelled correct. I also think a portion is simply due to us getting more used to the immaculate edges and surface quality from modern cad sculpts. But I see a lot of the same problems with just about every photo of this avatar I can find. So either they are all recasts, or it was just really hard to cast.

>>97468129
I dont actually have any practice with contrast paints, so I'll be painting it never lol.
>>
>>97468253
heil cockler
>>
>>97468253
It's a drawing made specifically to attract male attention.
>>
I got loads of spare time.
Thinking about whittling minis for gaming. Any anons got any experience doing so?
>>
>>97468303
whittling seems really hard, you might have more luck sculpting, which is also hard
>>
>>97468303
i mean some ppl do it on rice grains so i guess your skill is the limit
>>
>>97468253
>>
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clutter terrain finished
>>
Varnishes the mannequin-castellaxii yesterday.
>>
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Killa kan
>>
>>97468885
nice cope cage
>>
>>97468885
>cope cage
>three stripes
kino
>>
>>97468885
Nice cope cage, whoops I mean anti drone advanced technology now that western nations have adopted it
>>
>>97469078
you need to go back
>>
>>97469078
Hows weather in Mumbai, sir?
>>
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>>97467929
Thanks! I dunno what that is? pin up is me :3

>>97467941
Are they able to be reactivated with water? I haven't used them. I've been looking for a water soluble replacement for the AP paints since I've started to run out of particular colours. Been using the same set for like 5 years now.

>>97467988
I didn't understand why it took you so long to do that model when you posted the other pic. I just thought you were assembling a mini... But now that I see the close up of the arm...

... Did you sculpt that????? what the hell??????? picrel

>>97468885
Pure kino. really love how subtle the various colours are and how many colours are used. fantastic weathering
>>
>>97469487
Since ou were so adamant on denying it I went and asked the btg about you and the story there is
>Bottom anon, as he is called, is a prolific insufferable faggot that regularly posts off topic nude photos of himself for attention in this general and pictures of models of average quality. It's about a 50/50 that whenever he posts he's deliberately attempting to derail the thread and make it worse.
>>
>>97469837
To be fair he hasn't really stirred any shit here(yet) and can be easily ignored since his posts stand out
>>97469487
you can start being less obnoxious by not leaving so many empty lines in your posts
>>
>>97469983
To be fair, he's admitted to nude posting on a blue board in threads about painting robots and doesn't deserve any benefit of doubt.
As to the other part:
>50/50 chance that whenever he posts he's deliberately attempting to derail
He made sure to make post number one on a new thread about dragging the fight from last thread over.
I think those two points show that he's just going to do here what he did there and is merely trying to settle in before getting on with it.
>>
>>97470008
nta
I admit his multi reply posting and :3 uwu style is annoying but you can just skip reading the posts. It's not worse than random bait shitposts and random accusations of a post being x and y named-sperg-something
>>
>>97469837
just when craftsperg chilled out a bit we get a different clown, it's all so fucking tiresome
>>
The more you talk about this the more he's going to be annoying. I wouldn't even be surprised if he was the one who immediately replies with the reeeing to start the conversation every single thread when people are like "wtf are you talking about".
>>
>>97470050
At least the last guy was autistic in an on-topic manner.
The devil you know, eh?
>>
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Some progress.
>>
I varnished and panellined my Tau, would you guys clean and varnish again before adding streaking grime or just apply over it?
>>
>>97470550
Do a test patch somewhere inconspicuous. I would think streaking grime would reactivate the panel liner if it was one of the enamel ones though.
>>
>>97470550
If the panel liner and streaking grime are both oil/enamel-based (as they likely are) then you want a (not oil/enamel-based) varnish layer in between.
If one of them is and the other is acrylic then you don't most likely don't need one. Though there's always a possibility of product X from brand Y reacting poorly to product Z from brand Ã… no matter what the rules of thumb says should happen.
If both are acrylic then I don't know what the heck you're doing.
>>
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>>97470594
Both are enamel, its AK precision panelliner and AK streaking grime. I am at this point considering just leaving the streaking grime out. What do you guys think, should I varnish and grime to hide mistakes or just clean the liner a bit and start basing?
>>
>>97470626
Given the lack of highlights I'd say you really need the extra weathering to spice it up. But first add panel liner in a lot more places, basically every joint and inner angle would benefit from it, and especially things like where the gun barrels poke out through the barrel shroud.
>>
>>97470675
Thanks, honestly, I will add those
These are the third Killteam I ever painted, I have no idea how to do good highlights yet, I tried to do some edge highlighting on the visor but other than that I am stumped. Should I just brighten the Tau ochre and glaze over the armor? Because I cant be arsed to edge-highlight every single thing desu
>>
>>97470626
the white spirit / streaking grime will reactivate the panel liner unless you varnish again
>>
>>97470698
It's usually not much of a problem if anon lets it dry enough, and won't completely fucking flood the mini with it.
>>
>>97470709
Yeah this is something that confuses me about people saying the opposite. Once water based acrylic cures it isn't re-activated by water. Wouldn't something similar be true of enamels? Pretty sure oil isn't quickly reactivated by thinner once cured, if you ignore that oil curing takes a really long time. And even if it were, enamel and oil thinners seem interchangeable, and shouldn't they also impact the relatively weak polymer acrylic layer just as much if not more than enamel paint once cured since enamel's polymer is more durable anyway?
>>
>>97470687
Well, there are a lot of ways to do it. A full pass of edge highlights is one way (with practice it'll get a lot easier and faster). Glazing in strategic places would be another approach, sitting on the volumetric highlights side of thing. Then there's drybrushing, which admittedly isn't entirely in love with the smooth surfaces Tau are kinda fond of but IMO still better than just not highlighting. Especially since you seem to be ok with a more dirty and worn look, the issues would be much more prominent if you were dead set on going for a pristine showroom style. Also a bit hard to do at the current state of these models without grubbing up a lot of the nearby colours, but with a small drybrush-suited brush you can be quite precise with it. You can also go for more of a "drybrushed-edge-highlights" approach where you only really drybrush the edges.
>>
>>97470709
yeah, and the panel liner should be in the cracks. it's probably not a problem. I just meant that white spirit enamel and stuff reactivate much more easily than other stuff

>>97470687
If you can't be assed to edge highlight idk if you wanna do streaking grime? kinda more work than edge highlighting imo.
>>
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Is it even worth doing eyes at this scale do you think? I am not sure how to do them anyway.
>>
>>97467637
So was the pinup free handed?
>>
>multiple posts remarking on the completely unremarkable freehand
Dude, just ask what people think of it instead of samefagging to try and drum up interest.
>>
>>97470829
yeah that's my butthole :DDD
>>
>>97470887
>bt
>samefagging
>previous retard drama
It's craftsperg.
>>
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Alright, this is current status of my scratchbuild mecha, different horn but still not glued yet and had to make new hip armour sections, looking worse than previous ones but are not limiting leg movement so much.

Now I'm not sure if to move toward cleaning PS parts and making arms less blocky or I should again replace some parts now that I can see whole picture. And yes, those are jump jets on his back.
>>
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Speaking of - which horn looks more fitting? Left or right?
>>
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im painting skyshield landing pad and was thinking about those 14 lights, bright red and blue sound like airport to me
this thing is really huge
>>
>>97471100
Need to see to confirm but right might be too dainty? But I like the profile of it better.
>>
>>97471017
you say that about everyone.
newsflash: there is more than one autistic guy posting on /tg/
i know "you're craftsperg!" is incoming
>>
>>97471190
I'm not even the anon who often points out craftsperg. But I very much remember your previous futa bulge blunder. You are not fooling anyone, especially not if you do the same retarded shit over and over.
>>
>>97471231
Is someone going to answer that phone?
Because I fucking called it
>>
>>97471100
I agree with the other guy, I'd sooner go bigger than both over the smaller one.
>>
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>>97471155
Well, it turned out that small when I tried to angle its edges with knife, similar to how you would remove mold lines. Here are all (now three) options with head for scale.
>>
>>97471275
Did you call it, or manifest it? But yeah, craftsperg and craftspergsperg should just move in together.
>>
I think you guys should stick to your discord
>>
>>97470722
Short answer: no.
Long answer: oil and enamel based stuff can be re-activated after quite a while after having dried. That's their main selling point. Now they may cure into something more stubborn eventually, but the time that takes is most definitively not something to just ignore since it does indeed take a very long time and a lot of people aren’t gonna want to wait that long. I once waited a week to clean up the pin washing on a tank and things still reactivated, though not quite as easily as if I had done it the next day.
As for the enamel thinner/white spirit/turpentine having a go at the acrylic paint... yeah, they do. But not nearly as much as they dig into any oil or enamel based paints. (I don't know if it's the usual water-soluble-vs-fat-soluble thing at work, but I suspect it is and it'd certainly explain it.) So you need to be somewhat careful during the cleanup, not using more solvent than necessary and not scrubbing too hard, or the combination of chemical onslaught and mechanical grinding will start to damage the acrylic paints too. (For this reason it's common on the scale model side of things to put a protective varnish layer on top of your acrylics before the panel liner/streaking grime/oil based filters/etc are brought in to improve your margins a bit). These thinners can also attack the plastic itself turning it brittle, I've found Bandai's to be particularly sensitive, as well as the glue joints.
>>
>>97471068
Looks good, but the legs are a bit thin imo
>>
>>97467554
The flames look cool. I dislike the other freehands though because I prefer my mechs painted up like vehicles and not like giant humans with tattoos, but you do you
>>
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>>97467327
Good evening /wip/, finally (almost, still missing the base and some stuff) done with my first 2026 model.

Tried to make the repulsor executioner sleeker and more aggressive by not putting on all the clutter it comes with and cutting up some more too. Kept it minimal because of that and definitely not because I don't like painting vehicles.
>>
>>97472087
Looks good BT anon.
I'm sorry you're stuck with repulsors and GW will probably also soon ruin land raiders as well. I also wouldn't want to paint one.
>>
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>>97472087
For reference, how this thing normally looks
>>
>>97472087
Incredibly based
>>
>>97468885
>all that effort only to leave that nasty gap on the engine backpack
why do people do this?
>>
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All my progress for January. My new years resolution of having a full BT army by the end of 2026 is going well I think.
>>
>>97472186
Why does GW put seams like that in places that are fucking impossible to fill properly?
>>
>>97470687
edge highlighting is a meme and looks especially bad on tau robots. if you want your model to look better you should spend more effort on cleaning up mold lines and getting your paint coverage to look smoother. it's probably better to clear before using streaking grime, but you can get away with not doing it as long as you're careful about applying it.
>>
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>>97472112
>>97472100
Thanks lads.
I hope Land Raiders will stay as they are, they still look great and they were featured in the upcoming 40k tw game teaser as well.

>>97472195
kek I would have probably painted maybe 4 sword brethren in one month. You'll definitely get there
>>
>>97472334
they probably will change them or at least rescale the kits, I say this because the change from space marines to primaris was always very obviously about just rescaling, the units are all effectively 1:1 stand ins for the old, the only reason they didn't simply leave the name and release new truer scale models was because too many people would be able to just keep using their old collections, which may be acceptable for every other faction, but for the flagship faction it would be an unacceptable loss of potential profit.
So why would they leave just one statline alone? Terminators and landraiders will eventually get swapped too, and after that is done they will officially state that space marines and everything associated with them are now forbidden at events and on the table at GW stores.
>>
Can I get by with just a half mask respirator and having a big ass window for ventilation for priming/base coating with acrylics? I bought one of those spray booths with extractor fans that connect directly to the window to try getting into gunpla and lacquers but I hate how loud the fan gets.
>>
>>97472446
just get noise cancelling headphones
>>
>>97472334
I spent every piece of free time I had in January working on my resolution. I won't be able to keep up the pace for February due to other obligations unfortunately. But the dent I made in it was more than I was hoping for.
>>
>>97472102
the boxes on the sides make no fuckin sense anyways, they would be too high up to reach from anywhere
>>
>>97472446
Yeah, you can, but you'll get some dust everywhere over time. Not with lacquers were the fumes will linger though.

>>97472455
kek, I saw this before I finished reading the other comment and thought you were recommending he get noise cancelling headphones to protect against the airbrush particles.

As an aside. I only just learned that those waterfall spray booths actually have the water running act as the low pressure suction part as well. I always just kind of thought it was the water just acting as a liquid backstop that caught all the particles that sprayed in it's direction.
>>
>>97472211
To spite you, personally
>>
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Middle management’s done.

>>97472087
It helped.
>>
>>97472570
what the fuck?!
>>
>>97472446
>Can I get by with just a half mask respirator
Depends on the filters. If you can still smell the paint, then no. But going at it with a big ass window open could be enough. And it's acrylics, don't worry about it too much.
>>
>>97472455
I honestly hadn't thought of that, maybe its time to upgrade from my old headphones.
>>97472525
my house is super dusty already so more dust doesn't seem like an issue.
>>97472731
the mask has organic vapor and particulate filters. might be overkill for acrylics but figured I'd use it instead of turning on the extraction fan from the spray booth
>>
>>97472446
A half mask with a particle filter is a high level of protection when spraying plain acrylics. If you go into lacquers and the perkier solvents then adding an organic vapour filter to the mask and airing out the room during/after painting should provide significant protection, how much depends on how well you air out the room before taking the mask off.

>>97472525
The spray booth, even if not exhausting outside, should keep the dust down to where just normal, regular cleaning of the room should keep it un-noticeable. It does for me at least.
>>
>>97472798
>the mask has organic vapor and particulate filters. might be overkill for acrylics
It is, but you are completely fucking safe. Open the window real good and you can spray lacquers and other truly nasty shit.
>>
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End of January update, I'm 3 bull centaurs away from my new year new army goal, at least until I can get ahold of some hobgrots.
>>
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Skin test on whatever these guys are called. It's a little low contrast but can probably glaze it in. There wasn't as much skin on them as I thought though. God there is so much shit om these models.
>>
>>97473279
why do the gray parts look like they got snowed on?
>>
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>>97473398
>>
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Did an eldar helmet as one of anon's corsairs so I can hang him off my tank. I think it turned out a little darker than his actual scheme. It was fun to paint though.
>>
>>97472921
I like the tauruses in that color, is it a blue metal paint or wash or something else?
>>
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>>97473735
>>
>>97473863
It's Vallejo Xpress Caribbean Turquoise over a VMC Steel + Silver zenithal.
>>
>>97473398
most white primers are shit
>>
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More skin.
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>>97471342
Ooh my new favorite is the left one.
>>
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space man #2 of 5
>>
>>97468846
Industrial! 10/would shoot the red barrel at
>>
>>97469487
Ywnbaw
>>
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>>97469487
>I dont reccomend AP's newer paints, they're shit
>I haven't used them
Please, give us more of your professional product reviews.
>>
>>97470145
I like how the whip is turning out
>>
>>97470756
Tbh I don't think it's worth it at that scale, but there are two ways: darkest dungeon style shading OR paint white, use a sharpie/paint pen to do a dot and then clean up the white by edging in your flesh tone
Hope that helps
>>
>>97472023
Where dat model from be?
>>
>>97473735
Dang dude
>>
>>97474463
Stripes are a bit buldgy
>>
>>97474618
>buldgy
huh?
>>
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what color should these crates be
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>>97474669
>>
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Decided I'd finally get to work on my Secret Santa gift, a Spirit of Durthu. decided to make bodies for the extra bits out of bark and twigs from the backyard.
Also decided to throw in last years SS gift, the dragon and giant, since they match the 'forest lords' idea and I've been meaning to paint them for a while now, too.
>>
Now that it's confirmed that moot met with Epstein, I'm confident that the secret santas are actually a conspiracy now. How do I know anyone got theirs and the elites don't just get us to send them free minis?
>>
it's actually unreal how shit army painter airbrush paints are. even the blacks and blues have awful coverage
>>
>>97473735
what a flex
>>
>>97473735
based
>>
If given the choice, drop bottles or open pots for washes?
>>
>>97474961
>Now that it's confirmed that moot met with Epstein
wha
>>97475127
I like the old citadel washes, I find myself actually liking the little shelf.
>>
>>97475221
Yeah, moots in the files. A guy called Boris put moot and Epstein in contact and there's an email on 24th October 2011 asking if he liked moot. /pol/ was created on 23rd October 2011
>>
>>97475221
it's real, albeit circumstantial, and you can probably find the link easily to the justice department document if you looked for it. Christopher Poole isn't named, only moot. Epstein described moot as "gentle" and /pol/ was created later that same year. It could all be a coincidence, or maybe not.

>old citadel washes
the original nuln oil or the really old inks from the 2000s? I wish I'd known what I was doing with the latter back then...
>>
>>97475232
big if true
>>97475237
> I wish I'd known what I was doing with the latter back then...
everyone had their own homebrew recipes to make them into kinda washes
i dont particularly miss them but im glad i had to make due with so little so i can appreciate everything we have now
t. eri
>>
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Worst thing to pain ever.
>>
>>97474778
That's really cool.
It's also going to be fucking impossible to paint, so good luck.

>>97473735
anon in shatters

>>97475127
Pots. Although I don't really buy washes, they're just thinned down paint, and I guess when I do make them I do them on a palette so maybe a dropper bottle wouldn't be so bad.

>>97475232
Based on what I have seen in this latest drop so far I can't even tell if this is a joke. I don't want to politics up the thread but it's very important that people always have front of mind that the most powerful man in the world is probably a pedophile and at a minimum has many pedophile allegations against him and deep ties to the most notorious child sex trafficking ring in modern history.
>>
>>97475237
og nuln I mean, not the inks because I sadly didn't get into the hobby until the mid 2010s.
>>
>>97475643
(before they changed the recipes)
>>
>>97475624
>I can't even tell if this is a joke
I've been going through them all day. It's real. Moot got introduced to people until he eventually got to Epstein who really really wanted to meet him. There's at least 1 or 2 meetings with a bunch of back and forth trying to arrange meetings. The creepiest stuff is the guy that introduced him talking about him to Epstein though. Talks about opportunity for manipulation. I have a feeling he got passed around, used and given a job at Google.
>>
I have some old metal models and I think an old metal cadian officer with power sword somewhere I think if I didn’t get rid of it.
If I remember correctly the blade was somehow bent pretty badly in the center like pic related I got off a secondhand web store.
Probably a bit worse than pic related.
Is there a tool or tools I can use to more carefully and affectively bend the blade back into a straight form?
>>
>>97475648
just take it slow and dont jerk it back and forth and you will be fine
>>
>>97475127
droppers and I can't understand how there's any argument.
>>
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Does anyone here have experience painting straw? Specifically a straw rain hat like this.
I was thinking of starting with Vallejo Model Color buff and then a burnt umber oil wash.
>>
>>97475796
skeleton horde over white primer
>>
>>97475813
This might be a strange thing to admit here but I do not own any GW paints. Gotta start somewhere I suppose. Thanks Anon.
>>
>>97475127
Pots.
>>
>>97475127
Trick question. Oil paints tubes.
>>
>>97475237
>>97475643
Bah, younglings.
>>
>>97475960
M-MASAKA!
>>
>>97475844
Probably for the best that you don’t own any gw paints.
But really I spent money on some pre-reformulation armypainter paints and washes so I don’t have much footing to stand on when saying that.
I don’t know how armypainter stayed afloat but if the fanatic paints are genuinely good then I’m glad they did stay afloat.
>>
>>97475127
For washes I really don't care either way about the container, the GW ones in pots don't seem to ever form that fucked up seal-destroying dried ring which is really the only reason I ever don't like working with pots.
>>
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I made this horse crinet concept from elastic masking tape to check if the idea works. The more challenging part will be to add reins back to the model. What do you think? Should I use narrower masking tape for the neck armour (this one is 2mm), or are the extra armour segments redundant on 28mm miniatures?
>>
>>97476080
2mm seems fine, though it might be a good idea to also consider how large the plates/scales/lames on any other armour on the horse/rider is and match somewhat (likely a bit larger compared to the rider's) to that.
>>
>>97476080
you could wet a piece of thick string with watered down elmers and then half-wet cut and bend it to your liking
string end is easier to conceal into the original model so you dont have to make any additional cheek plates
>>
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still a mess but I'm happy with the overall look.
>>
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>>97476153
I didn't like the canon paint scheme so I went with something a little more Biel-Tan
>>
>>97475961
I vaguely remember some paint companies making it their whole thing to mimic the old citadel.
How’s the quality of those nostalgia88 paints? What are the must haves?
What other paint companies besides warcolours are mimicking the old citadel paints?
>warcolours mimicking old rackham colors
What were the best of that paint line?
>>
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>>97476219
Great red/green contrast, I love the hooves. It looks like it belongs on a cover of swamp thing.
>>
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>>97476115
>>97476127

I think that I'll use similar 2mm strips for the peytral and crupper, or make them into larger plates.
>>
>>97476219
Really good model anon.
If I had to nitpick something maybe the open wounds could have blood visibly or more visibly dripping out.
>>
>>97476168
>What other paint companies besides warcolours are mimicking the old citadel paints?
Well, there's Coat d'Arms who get their stuff from the company that used to make GW's paints originally.
Supposedly these "nostalgia paints" usually tend towards purer pigments and more vibrant colours, but at the cost of less opacity, since that's the side of the compromise that the old stuff leaned on. Haven't tried any myself (yet) though.
>>
>>97467327
Does anybody know where to buy the Armypainter dropper bottle caps in bulk on say Aliexpress?

I would like some extra caps to spray white and apply the respective wash over the cap to have a ready visual of what the wash color looks like when applied instead of relying on the print label color.
And some spare dropper caps in case somehow the lid cracks.

I know it is a stupid question. No idea where else to ask.
>>
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Mounted necroman
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>>97476294
dope
is that the nurgle herald horse?
>>
>>97476409
Nurgle lord, yeah.
>>
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>>97476127

This is how I made the chanfron. The edges look rather ragged due to the extreme zoom.
>>
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>>97476850

View from the front.
>>
>>97476850
ihan komea viritelmä on
with that you can do pretty much anything you want because that large thing covers it nicely
also do fix that little piece that sticks from under behind the jawbone
>>
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>>97476945

Yeah the idea is that I'll hide the seams of the tape under other parts. I thought of making triangular bits to cover the sides of the neck, similar to this piece of Tibetan barding.
>>
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>>97476219
Looks great, the different shades of green are lovely. Have you considered adding some rust or weathering to the sword? I feel it would fit the swamp feel a lot!
>>97476153
The scheme is pretty nice but the white would use some cleaning up.
>>97474463
Looks good, the hazard stripes are a bit uneven but it's not very noticeable. I'd recommend getting tamiyas masking tape if you want to do more of these, though. Makes it so much easier.
>>97473735
Cute shoutout!
>>97472635
I especially like her leggings, the shape of her legs and butt is so nicely defined.
>>97472087
I'm not a huge fan of these levitating tanks but you did a great job as always.
>>97468885
Memes aside this is a really well painted model!
>>
>>97477014
>I especially like her leggings, the shape of her legs and butt is so nicely defined.
I've gotten quite a bit of success with that red, so I put it to work where it would liekly matter (as opposed to, say, black leggings and using the red for the loincloth-thingy).
>>
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I was sanding forearms I made to make them less blocky and I'm unsure on how to proceed - there is a "cut" section at the end of elbow and middle looks like missing something.
>>
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Trying out ideas for my necromunda genestealers. This is my alpha, been slapping skaven bits together with old gsc bits. I like the look, I call them skinnies. Not sure how I'm going to pull of abberants.
>>
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>>97477542
The head is just a test bit I cut up, here's a better pic without the head. Still figuring out wether I'm going bare head of mask.
>>
>>97477507
its missing a rivet plain and simple thats why it looks weird
>>
>>97476294
Very cool!
>>
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Base coat finished
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>>97477793
>shadows
>highlights
>decals
Basecoat?
No, bait.
>>
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*schulrp*
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>>97477570
I guess it's time to put these rivet forms I got some time ago to use. These tiny ones will be probably hard to even fill in, however.
>>
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>>97478040
>>
>>97478040
Based mosquito murderer.
>>
>>97478156
if you just want plain round rivets sounds like too much effort
>>
>>97469383
I'm Israeli
>>
>>97478193
And what else you suggest? Drilling with 0.8mm or something similar?
>>
>>97478040
Nice painting buddy
>>
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>>97478357
hole punches
>>
>>97478193
You don't buy molds like that if you just want plain round rivets
>>
>>97478320
Disgusting
>>
>>97478357
>>97478372
this, but on tin sheets over a silicone mat, you can punch any sharp shape you have around, including screwdrivers
>>
>>97478459
>>97478372
Gotta check this out one day.

>>97478373
Actually, it was just that I saw it at hobby shop and thought it could be nice thing to have.
>>
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painting yet another skeleton
>>
>>97478040
Drink up, little buddy.
>>
>>97478040
spider aside why does your wet palette look so gross
>>
>>97478706
That's a really good looking skeletor. Mind sharing the bone recipe, anon?
>>
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Despot's done.
>>
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>>97478818
In that picture it's literally just zandri dust with an all over brown wash. I then relayer with ushabti bone and highlight with screaming skull. About as basic as it gets, honestly.
>>
>>97478863
Thanks nonetheless!
>>
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Not sure if the lighting and the camera makes the colors color accurate, but I really like this blue. I mixed 1-to-1 Vallejo flat blue with Prussian blue.

Perfect for my French! A blue slightly on the more purple side.
>>
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>>97477542
See if you can grab some Kruel boy gutripperz, the base bodies would probably be a really nice fit with your guys

Unrelated Im working on my malstrain themed aberrant
>>
Latest work i've done
>>
>>97479073
>>
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I have finished tonk.
>>
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>>97453491
>>97447458
Updates on my necro team. Most of the work is done, big things to do:
-transfers with numbers
-highlights on zombies
-skin of the golems
>>
>>97479242
>>97479073
relatively solid job, but if that OSL you tried there, the light source itself needs to be A LOT brighter.
>>
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>>97479258
>>
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>>97479264
>>
>>97479251
syntax they must learn it seems.
>>
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>>97479266
>>
>>97479262
The OSL is so overdone that it ruins the paintjob, which is otherwise very good.
>>
>>97479317
>>97479262
Kind of my first time attempting such thing, and I wanted it to glow
I think I will add a bit more white to the source
>>
>>97479325
The only other criticism is that you should have done that base in resin instead of FDM, or if it is resin, reduce the layer height and turn on antialiasing.
But as I said, other than the overdone OSL the paintjob is very good.
>>
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>>97479251
And here's a spinny.
>>
>>97479459
Based spinny
>>
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>>97474681
blue was a good choice
>>
>>97479459
absolutely beautiful
>>
>>97479459
I've stolen your model via photogrammetry and now have it in tabletop simulator.
>>
>>97479667
Neat! Can I see it?
>>
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Entombed by snow so I painted some of the new blood bowl tomb kings.
Paint scheme intention is Lazotep skeletons from MtG
>>
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>>97479475
>>
>>97479399
>you should have done that base in resin instead of FDM
Yeah i'm a cheap bastard
Thank you anon
>>
>>97479703
>>
>>97479784
On the plus side, it's a base so just cover it with texture paste.
>>
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I had to stop for tonight because my headphone batteries died. I was going to work on painting from the inside out, but I realized that I need to block in the base colors and then recess wash and parts-separate anything I can't properly reach before moving on. There's too many hard to reach spots that would make it too difficult to clean up after the fact. So ignore the bad coverage on the red, it's going to get layered over again a few times in volumetric shading,I just needed something to block in.
I feel like I'm being punished for not wanting to using contrast paints.
>>
>>97479838
if you talk bad about contrast paints ITT you'll definitely feel punished.
>>
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I just finished a speedpaint/ batch painting project with the new blood bowl tomb kings. Mostly used contrasts with some shading and highlights.
>>
>>97479863
Gee willickers! That's a paint scheme I haven't seen 300,000 times before!
>>
>>97479951
Does it matter?
>>
>>97479959
Yes.
>>
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>>97479976
Here you go.
>>
>>97479959
depends, are you playing a team that belongs to you, or one that belongs to GW?
How is anyone supposed to differentiate your khemri team from any other khemri team?
>>
>>97480036
I guess i don’t really give a fuck i thought they looked cool.
>>
>>97480058
> I don't really give a fuck
blood bowl isn't about metagaming, so what are you in it for if not to customize your team, give it and the players on the roster a unique identity?
And if you don't give a fuck about the painting, just slapped contrast on it in the box art colors, then what are you doing in /wip/?
>>
>>97480065
I had fun painting them.
I thought they looked cool.
I look forward to playing Blood Bowl with my friends.
>>
>>97480065
show me on this doll where they touched you, anon.
>>
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Does anyone here have any of the DoK snake ladies? If you do, could you please take a pic of it next to a 32mm base?
Thinking about buying some to kitbash for Blood Bowl, but I know the melusai are on 40mm bases, so I don't know if they'd fit on the correct bases for BB.
>>
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>>97479863
wheyy, good to see some more tks in the thread, do you have a league coming up? The first game for mine is later this week.
>>
>>97480163
Not quite yet. I’m actually a mainly 40k player but i got the new third season box to try a new game with some friends.
>>
>>97479475
I like the tree pieces and their bases. Are the trees themselves printed?
>>
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>>97480198
trees, plants, and crates are printed
the bases are a plastic ice cream lid cut up with crackle mod podge, sand, floral glass, and paint
>>
>>97476294
Hell to the yes! I've never seen this particular mash up done before, but man it feels like this should have been a common conversion from the old days.
>>
>have 3d printer
>have acrylic paints and brushes
>see video about 3d printing minis
>used to wargame 20years ago
>order 0.2mm nozzle for printer
>while waiting order cheap beginner airbrush+compressor set (90 USD)
>spend the 2 weeks it takes to get the nozzle downloading a terabyte of STLs
>nozzle arrives
>fill the plate with random terrain
>0.06mm layer height, highest quality settings
>24h to print some ruined walls
the same print job would take a 90 minutes with the default nozzle/settings. if i stick with it long enough to print and paint terrain to fill a 3'x5' table i'll look into getting a resin printer to start printing minis see you guys on monday with some printing results. gotta pick up some primer
>>
>>97476292
This but replacement nozzles and hopefully akinteractive’s dropper bottle caps please.

Also has anybody used Ak’s version of speedpaint?
The local lgs is stocking them now and I want to know if they reactivate after drying. And how are they compared to speedpaint 2.0 as I’ve seen anons say they are better than contrast.
>>
>>97480157
What team will you be using them as?
>>
>>97480036
Have you played Blood Bowl, like ever?
There will 2 Tomb Kings teams in his next League (tops) and the other one gonna be 3D printed from Punga or other artists.
>>
>>97480071
Keep that attitude anon, the other guy is just an asshole. How did you make the blue shoulders? I'm going to paint my TK just after I'm finished with the necro >>97479258
>>
Hey wip.
What’s the best black airbrush intended primer and what’s the best white airbrush primer?
I have models in plastic, resins and metal.
And what’s the best airbrush thinner?
>>
>>97480495
I don't have a ton of airbrush experience, but the ones I'm using (both black and white) are from Green Stuff World. I don't have much issue with them.

I'm looking forward to answers from the other anons.
>>
>>97480482
I'm thinking amazons or high elves. I'm going kitbash first into this one.
>>
>>97480527
lizardmen is another option
>>
>>97480527
I think with enough effort you could do ALL elves team
>>97480529
Who's going to be the skinks and chameleon?
>>
>>97480538
didn't think that far tbf, just remembered back to the one lizardmen star player with the snake tail
>>
Is it just me or is AP Fanatic way too fucking fragile for a hobby gamer paint? I paint models, let them sit for a half hour between colors, and just light handling while painting other details causes paint to wear off the primer. Sometimes it wears off places I didn't even touch.

Dusty Skull/Spiky Bones is especially bad, which sucks considering Skeleton Bone was one of the few good colors in the orignal AP line.
>>
>>97480569
How are you priming your minis, anon? But I do always think of AP paints as lesser in quality than Vallejo or Pro Acryl, so you might be onto something
>>97480545
I guess you could use like whip ladies, but they are not really small and stunty. I think Elves / Skaven gonna work the best
>>
>>97480495
vallejo has some polyurethane airbrush primers in shades of black, white, and grey. Takes a long time to cure but works great as a primer and goes on very thin. I wish they had more color choices though.
>>
How many layers of varnish do you generally use for models that are for gaming?
>>
>>97480605
none
>>
>>97480605
gaming?
>>
>>97480599
I never got a point of coloured airbrush primers. Just so the black one (or horizontal with grey and white) and airbrush the base colour with whatever paint you like.
>>97479475
Really nice work anon
>>97476850
Noooo anon, don't put the horse in a gimp suit!
>>97476219
Incredible skill, how long did it take you to paint?
>>97476153
Pretty nice. Although all of the figure is light and it comes out a little flat overall.
>>
>>97480605
One or none. One thick layer of rattle can varnish on the terrain, though. What are you playing? If you have good transport box and don't play with dirty hands, you don't REALLY need varnish
>>
>>97480511
Thanks!
>>97480599
Thanks!
How are they for speedpaints if I ever give those paints a try?
The same goes for pro acryl/ak white primers.
I’ll admit I’ve just been using rattlecans and brush varnishing very few minis.

I’m still open for more airbrush primer suggestions.
>>
>>97480495
>best black airbrush intended primer
mr surfacer black
>best white airbrush primer
mr surfacer white
>>
>>97473735
Ahahaha I love it dude. Blue's pretty damn close, I used Ahriman Blue shaded woth Xereus Purple and highlighted with a pale flesh tone mixed in. Lovely stuff!
>>
>>97480623
I've been really enjoying dark colored rattlecans as livelier alternative to black. I'm also very lazy and don't like cleaning my airbrush.

>>97480638
I have not tried speedpaints but I don't think they would have a problem. The primer cures quite smooth with a satin finish. It's not like the white rattlecans which can end up cracking or grainy.
>>
>>97480643
Looks like I’ll have to choose between supporting lgs or shop online. But thanks anon!
>>97480653
Thank you anon!

I’ve had bad experience painting white acrylics so when I first try to prime white with an airbrush what is some general advice you lads have from personal experience?
>>
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>>97480653
Rattlecans and coloured rattlecan primers I get and use. Especially since I learned how to use them in winter (it's -16C outside). I did my Skaven Spearhead with a dark khaki one. Airbrush primers are pain in the ass to clean though
>>
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The knight is done.
>>
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Took a few tries before I was happy with the shield.
>>
What Pigment, if any, could I add to the base to make it more natural without breaking a "dead world"\"empty asteroid" feel I want? Right now it's just - black prime, grey drybrush, light-grey light drybrush over a simple base (glue + sand)
>>
>>97480869
g-grey, like the moon?
Like the moon.
>>
>>97480875
Yes, something like the moon
>>
Not sure if this is the right place to ask. I want to start building basic scenery like hills, rock outcrops and forests. Where do you get trees for cheap? I visited a modeling store and the trees were 5-7€ a piece so the idea is not paying 40€ for a single forest base. I was thinking aquarium trees or something like that, but not sure if they work for 28 mm games
>>
>>97480881
Then I would probably go with grey pigment.
>>
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Kroot I'm painting as part of a project to turn a lot of my half-armies into actual forces
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>>97480623
The guy on the left I did in about 45 minutes this morning the guy on the right probably took an hour and a half

I'm just slopping on paint and it's fun
>>
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My progress this weekend. Bros i must say that i feel that my well-being has improved since I started "modeling"
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>>97481075
Nice work anon, I especially like how it looks in that setting sun light
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>>97480354
Yeah. It just fits really well.
Originally I intended to grab one of these from Ral Partha, but I happened across a surprisingly good deal on the nurgle lord, so I felt less bad about just cutting parts off. At the usual ebay prices, I would have never done this conversion.
>>
>>97472635
>>97477014
Thank you. Nice ass on that heretic
>not a huge fan of these levitating tanks
kek I don't think many people are, kind anime poster

>>97480769
>>97480774
Cool knight, appreciate the painted early pot helm
>>
>>97470050
the nazianon mentioned in the /btg/ explanation is a craftsperg too, I wonder if they're the same.
>>
>>97470756
>>97474592
Another way: don't paint black pupils, just shade the eye sockets and dot some (off?)white on both sides, at this size two dots are harder to fuck up than a line and a dot.
>>
>>97475127
Drop bottles.
>>
Anybody here struggle to paint white and other light colors?
What tutorial snapped you out of this problem when dealing with less covering acrylics like light skin, yellow and white?
I don’t mind being spoon fed.
>>
>>97481156
Airbrush, not using Citadel whites (literally throw them into the garbage, might as well use craft paints), and mixing your favorite white paint with white ink.
>>
>>97481129
highly likely
>>
>>97481199
I was thinking about the tiny details but airbrushing sounds pretty good.
I don’t use citadel’s white paint.
I never had a need for a white paint so I’m looking at AK’s white as that’s available at the lgs.
>white ink
To maximize the whiteness of a paint? Any drawbacks to doing this or things I should be aware of?
>>
>>97481218
>To maximize the whiteness of a paint? Any drawbacks to doing this or things I should be aware of?
NTA but it thins it without reducing the opacity.
There could be a downside of, if you're putting that much titanium white into one place, it could get chalky. That's not necessarily a bad thing (it's the nature of the beast with ti white) but test it out before slapping it on your favorite mini.
>>
>>97481245
I’ll test it.
I’ll also look at more skin and white painting tutorials too.
Thanks!
>>
>>97481218
Airbrushing alone mitigates most fuckery with (off)white colors. AK white is alright, though when painting white, I would recommend to start with an offwhite color, and keep pure white for highlights.
As other anon said, white ink thins it, but also adds tiny touch of intensity, which translates into needing less layers. White paint also usually require a lot more thinning, so you can see why ink helps. If you thin/mix it right, you can have a really nice, smooth coverage in one or two layers, which take seconds with airbrush.
For small shit, either do sub-assemblies, or use liquid mask. AK liquid mask is not bad at all, but a regular acrylic liquid mask/latex will work, too. It smells like piss, but it's pure magic that not many anons seem to be aware of for some reason.
>>
>>97481269
Thanks for the detailed explanation, anon!
>liquid mask
I’m really gonna look into that.
I’ve got some metal models I can just paint and isopropyl alcohol paint strip again and again so I’ll keep what you’ve said in mind and try this out when I get the chance.
>>
>>97480494
Anon told you how, he slopped contrast paint on.
There's no skill in that picture.
>>
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New batch of primed minis.
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>>97479788
>>
>>97474592
not really no
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>>97481405
We're painting plastic toy soldiers here anon, if someone's fine with just speedpaints thats okay. Stop being obnoxious
>>
>>97481503
No, we've established as a thread that this is not just about toys for games here, therefore this is a thread about showing painting projects as they progress, with a secondary implication on developing skill.
Anon has not shown progression, and has both stated directly and by implication of the paint type chosen, that progression of skill is not a desire, no criticism was asked for, no advice was asked for, just "boom, here's some contrast slop".
>>
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>>97481598
Post your dudes mate.

Anon made a very nice contrast slop. Before contrast appeared on the market, some people were also doing slap chop, but with inks. Painting your minis nicely and fast is a skill too, some of us got deadlines and armies to finish.
>>
>>97481598
>we've established
no we didn't lmao, chill out
>>
>>97481598
Being a pedantic twat is worse than painting with contrast paints.
>>
>>97481628
Ah so you'll object to busts and gundams and anime dolls?
>>
>>97481598
>no criticism was asked for, no advice was asked for
right, so shut up, sperg
>>
>>97481670
if you don't like it then keep your posts private. You put your shit in public and you implicitly invite all of the public to say as they please. This isn't a therapists office, your feelings are not protected here.
>>
>>97481679
apply for a janny position next time if you want to police this thread you dumb motherfucker
>>
>>97481459
Then stay retarded I guess
>>
>>97481679
You are right, it's better to just ignore retards like you.
>>
>>97481656
>>97481679
>it's craftsperg again
Already finished shoveling mule shit for today?
>>
>>97481690
If only you had the agency required to do as you say!
>>
>>97481443
I like the medusa, but that's not any Bloodrack I know, may I ask what model that is?
>>
>>97481679
You will never be a janny, craftsperg-kun.
Now fuck off.
>>
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Trying to use that form I showed yesterday was disaster - tried using GSW one UV resin but even 20 minutes under UV lamp (the one for nails - maybe it's too weak?) couldn't solidify it completely and it is so thick that air couldn't escape even after some shaking. So I did cheap option of just cutting rods with knife and ruler and sticking them.

This is how scratchbuild mecha looks like now. Any advices on what to add? If it looks okay now, I would take a break and then work on weapons. Thanks in advance for tips and opinions, as always.
>>
>>97481694
>>97481703
Oh look, it's schizosperg.
>>
>>97481721
you need to be at least a bit more subtle if you don't want to get called out
>>
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>>97481727
All this says is that you're in such a state of seethe that you're posting on your phone and your pc at the same time, or that you're using paint to manipulate.
>>
>>97481742
>going full schizo
just shut the fuck up and stop shitting the thread up, faggot
>>
>>97481748
Seems I stepped on the exact right nerve.
>>
>>97481750
trying too hard at this point, buddy
>>
Uh oh, crafty having a melty again
>>
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>>97481700
It's the one at the bottom, which came in a blister together with the mounted version.
>>
>>97481760
>>97481771
the samefagging butthurt cope here is delicious.
>>
imagine being this desperate for attention lmao
>>
>>97481797
You don't have to imagine it.
>>
>>97481720
I know jack shit about mecha so I can't offer any valuable advice but I think it looks really cool and it's very impressive for a scratchbuild.
>>
>>97481771
Can we start just calling this 'having a crafty'?
>>
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>>97479028
Yeah, they have potential. Thanks for the tip.

Meanwhile I picked a head for the alpha
>>
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>>97480379
we rise, FDM brothers
>>
>>97481283
why waste time with alcohol on metal models? just dunk them in acetone.

>>97481443
they look snowed on strip them and do it again. cum on people you don't actually looking like that is normal and acceptable do you?

>>97481720
the rivets honestly look terrible. they're way out of scale and in gw fashion most of them are in places that wouldn't even be riveted in any reasonable construction.
>>
>>97482078
Crap, they are glued and won't move out now. I can pretend they are not rivets but outside of drilling with some small bits (0.5-0.8mm) here and there, I don't have better ideas. Don't have hole puncher either.
>>
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>>97482087
>>
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finally finished this car i started last year
>>
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>>97482087
>>
>>97482112
It could use a bigger rear bumper because firing that thing is going to back it up.
>>
>>97482010
I wouldn't be surprised if you are the craftsperg and you throw the accusation around just to keep mention of you alive.
>>
>>97482112
imagine not having the suspension sag on the side with the gun. start over
>>
>>97482123
>>97482131
>muh realism in plastic toys
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>>97482134
have fun wargaming anon
>>
>>97482123
Imagine that's how it "drives". The engine is fucked, it races in reverse by constantly firing, damage to opposition is merely a byproduct.
>>
>>97482095
>>97482120
Are they really looking that bad? I thought that "samurai-like" plates would benefit from these. Maybe I would only get rid of the ones from arm sections.
>>
>>97482112
looks like something out of brigador
look up Corvid Fatshoe, or Treehouse
>>
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>>97482195
where are the rivets johnson I don't see them
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>>97482255
These yellow dots?
>>
Has anyone else experienced a paint that started forming bubbles and foam? I recently had the displeasure of encountering this with Vallejo dark green. I've had the paint jar for about five years now. Did it expire, or did I not shake it enough before using it?
>>
>>97482195
Are you making it for yourself or other people?
Do you like how they look?
Are they rivets or whatever spacemagic scifi armor components for a spacemagic scifi giant robot?
>>
>>97482128
I'm not, but I don't blame you for thinking that's a possibility.
>>
>>97482263
no, those are straps, but the rivets across the top of each chest plate panel are clear.
>>
>>97482265
Now when I take a look, I like how they look on sloped armor plates but don't like how they look on forearm sections. Wanted to figure something out to make them look less plain.
>>
>>97467327
What's a good way to make strips of cloth to wrap around a gun other than greenstuff/epoxy putties
Would construction paper be thick enough?
>>
>>97482348
You could try soaking strips of paper in watered down white glue, papier mache style
>>
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>>97482348
pic rel is masking tape + watered down pva and then a little paint for color
>>
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Necroman done.
Old Boxer didn't get sent to the glue factory after all.
>>
>>97482348
masking tape is very good and the stickiness of it would definitely be better to work with at small scale than paper. I've used it for horse reins, scarves, leather straps. I started using it after watching https://youtu.be/JJ0cOFKpto4?si and after laboriously trying to sculpt headwraps in green stuff. This is just easier.
>>
>>97482468
fix your shit anon >>97479788
>>
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I've had to travel for work a lot last couple of weeks, but I finished up Helgar and some touchups of my dorf lasses! I'm proud of myself for the axe, helm and face, although I think the white flowers could be a bit better. Think I nailed the vibe though
>>
>>97482348

Masking tape. You can get it in different widths from manufacturers like tamiya even.
>>
>>97482375
>>97482415
>>97482530
>>97482610
Thanks anons, this seems infinitely more approachable than trying with putty, tried making some parchments with greenstuff and couldn't get it even close to right
>>
>>97482576
Fix your attitude.
>>
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Working on my Rotor Cannon squad.
They're such sexy weapons
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>>97482684
is this from hh?
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>>97482759
Yep.
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>>97482679
>>
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Could I get some geinuine advice on how to paint better? Friend gave me half a box of the starter set or whatever since he plays marines and I suppose I kinda baiting me into playing. I primed my models and am trying to go for a phyrexian kinda color scheme. I know its not great and my main questions are, first I know thin paints but I think at first I was way over thinning since my paints werent puting almost any color, then I think I didnt do enough for the carapace? Or maybe I fucked up in some other way with it. Also big advice on how to paint where the colors are supposed to start meeting. You can see I missed alot of spots and have sloppy work but I think im simply missing a smaller brush, or maybe something else. Also any other advice I suppose. I know its not great but its my first ever time putting paint to model so thats why im asking.
>>
>>97482530
>>97482415
The problem I have with masking tape is that the adhesive breaks down into powder and the paper starts to crumble after 5-10 years. Probably less of a concern when you've pumped it full of varnish and glue, but something to keep in mind.
>>
>>97482819
With a size 1 or 0 you can paint pretty much anything as long as the tip is sharp. Tyranids have lots of big flat areas and not actually that much detail, so a tiny brush wouldn't make it easier.
It looks like you put on too much paint, but since you said you're already thinning, it could be the primer. Make sure to prime in short bursts and always by dragging the spray across the model sideways. Never spray models head on.
Other than that, make sure you brace your hands properly. That will give you better brush control.
>>
>>97482131
wheels spin so that sounds like too much work
>>
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>>97482819
use a dark wash on the skin parts to darken it, it'll also fill the joints and other small details and make them pop out. something like agrax earthshade or army painter strong tone.

I dig the phyrexian color scheme, my suggestion is to give the shell a few alternating thin coats of corax white and wraithbone. Corax is cool, Wraithbone is warm, both will contribute to an overall bone color.
>>
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done with the skelly
>>
>>97482819
a way to get better results without having to be any more skilled is to put more thought into the process. have all of your colors planned out before you do any painting. think about what order to paint each color will make things the easiest. remember that painting over black usually sucks. look at different features and try to think about if it will be easier to paint that part first and then put your next color around it, or if it's better to paint the surrounding color first and then paint the detail.

consider using some kind of magnification so you can see what you're doing better. everyone else will probably swear that I'm wrong but you should also try not holding your workpiece with one hand while trying to paint it with another. put it in a vise or something secure so you only have to worry about controlling your paintbrush hand.

if you're worried about paint consistency practice painting a plastic spoon first. you can try different things there and make as many mistakes as you need to. if you practice on your model you will be too invested in it and not want to throw out your mistakes.
>>
>>97482987
Unironically better than eavy metal
>>
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>>97482792
>>
>>97483102
Many such cases with this specific anon.
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>>97482987
now do 59 more
>>
>>97483163
poor horsie, he never asked for this
>>
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>>97483102
>>97483173
you're gonna make me blush
>>97483229
these are the elite dudes, I only need to do 10 more actually
>>
>>97483283
I wonder if/when GW will make new full units for Tomb Kings rather than just the dragon and characters.I love Tomb Guard
>>
>>97483322
I'm hoping for a refresh of their regular skellies and horses honestly. I don't hate the current/old ones but it sure would be nice to get better sculpts of those
>>
>>97483343
too bad get one HQ and watch as we release the Chinese army
>>
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White is turning out to be more difficult than I thought. Very unforgiving and difficult to get smooth transitions or shadows. Also very difficult to photograph.
>>
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>>97483607
And here they are with a black background
>>
does rattlecan testors dullcote desature colors a lot?

i tried brushing on the 50/50 matte varnish/contrast medium mix from the ducan varnish video but thought my model looked pretty desaturated afterwards
>>
New thread:

>>97484689
>>97484689
>>97484689



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