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File: big_WIP_collage_20FEB2026.jpg (1.97 MB, 2560x1827)
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Work in Progress, "Great Work, Everyone!" Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

>Previous Threads:
>>97568566
>>97555454
>>97539946
>>
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How's my converting?
>>
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>collage of all the stuff posted
Now that's a really cool idea! Although being the one selected for the banner feels nice, too.
>>
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>>97589577
I'm converted.
>>
>>97589584
Definitely should be the default going forward it's that good an idea.
>>
>>97589645
It probably takes significantly longer to make, though.
>>
>>97589653
A guy can't just raise the bar like that and then walk away.
>>
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Should I keep doing the downwards lines along the vents for highlights? The execution on the top vents for the lines obviously wasn't very successful in the left picture as I'm now realizing. Or should I just stick to edge highlights for the top vent areas in the right pic.
>>
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>>97589584
>>97589645
>>97589653
>>97589685
Collages like >>97589522 do take significantly longer to make since I do them by hand. You might remember that I had done it a few times before when I had the opportunity to - usually because I have the day off - but in this case I was primarily motivated by seeing several good WIP pictures in our previous thread and having a tough time deciding which one to use for the OP.

Also, I was on a nearly-hour-long call with our telephony department getting my new company phone set up, and there were a lot of "dead silence" times where the tech and I just had to sit there while the phone did its thing.
>>
>>97589774
There are some free online collage makers that could speed things up. Having a tool to quickly save images from a thread would make it even quicker but I don't know if such a thing exists.
>>
>>97589900
NTA but I use those when I'm phoneposting to avoid posting a number of separate images.
>>
>>97589900
>Having a tool to quickly save images from a thread would make it even quicker but I don't know if such a thing exists.
It does, and I have one.

I don't doubt that using something like Pic*Collage would shorten the time it takes to build a nice collage. I might have to look into that. In the meantime, though, picking one good picture from our thread to be the next thread's OP has been quite popular!
>>
>>97590096
It's popular with the anon who gets picked, this method is popular with the entire contributing population of the general.
>>
>>97590104
just get good and you'll end up in the banner too, eventually
>>
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I'm not sure so I'm asking for opinion - would making "teeth" white-grey be good idea or that would be too much and they would not look good? Since it's very start for red/grey part, I can easily change it.
>>
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I'm not a huge fan of these big potholes on some nurgle minis, but I do like the smaller ones like on the plague surgeon like in pic.

Two questions: is it a huge ordeal to fill up these holes AND sand them so smooth that when they're primed/painted, you can't tell there was any hole? I've seen some pics of people filling pits but I can and I think it looks like shit.

Next, how would you achieve these fine, smaller pits like on rightside picrel? On both plastic and resin? Is it possible to do this well?
>>
>>97590142
>filling
it's not too difficult you need some kind of putty though

>drilling
resin is hard and brittle so it can be a bit of a challenge, but plastic is soft. You can even use a soldering iron on plastic. Be gentle though or you'll end up with another big hole.

I haven't tried the technique myself, but finescale armor modelers often apply solvents like plastic glue to bare plastic then press against the plastic with tool to create armor texture. That sounds like it might work well for your application. Maybe try it on some sprues first and see how it goes?
>>
>>97590175
OK, that sounds like a good idea. I'll try a fine solder tip and also the plastic glue trick.

If I'm filling big holes, I'll probably want to add fine pit texture over some of those places filled with putty. I dunno if I should hollow out the big pits more, then use a filler and gently poke in with a shaper to make the pits after, and sand gently so its all flush.. That might also help me make pits on some resin guys I have? or if thats just going to look sloppy in the end, guess I'll find out
>>
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I kneel...what would make the most impact visually that I could complete tonight before my game tomorrow?

Lore is they are returning from a foam party.

1250 old world, everything that can have mark of khorne does. No magic. Just big hulking scary shit...playing tzeench and vampire coast so I'm most likely hosed by their range/magic. I honestly really struggle to enjoy playing wargames, but I love the crafting side of the hobby

Sry 4 the fucking blog post
>>
>>97590227
I'd prioritize weapon blades, helmet trim and then shoulderpad trim in that order since those will be the quickest and most visible areas to make models stand out as individuals instead of just a mass of red
>>
>>97590227
>foam party.
Fucking degenerate, must you make every fucking thing about your sex life?
>>
>>97590227
painting chaos trim sucks so much but you've gotta do it.

Does anyone have experience with the metallic acrylic markers that are sold for painting gunpla? I wonder if they could get a good result on chaos trim.
>>
>>97590255
>painting chaos trim sucks so much
Nta but it's really not that bad, it just takes some patience
>>
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>>97590251
Get ur mind out of the gutter, foam parties arent inherently sexual. Someone last thread just said it looked like they were returning from a foam party and i thought it was hilarious...its supposed to be snow, but now all i can see is a bunch of bros on a long journey home from the party and it's better for it.
>>
>>97590251
Just a joke I (a different anon) made last time, calm thine tits.

>>97590227
Maybe work on your centerpieces a little, but I wouldn't fret. It won't be done this time.

>>97590255
>prime metallic
>paint everything but the trim
I am very smart.
>>
>>97590272
>foam parties arent inherently sexual
You're too young an naive to be on this site
>>
>>97590284
>prime metallic
>paint everything but the trim
I've tried this before and it took so many coats for the metallics to not show through the other colors that it wasn't worth it
>>
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My orc in the collage pic hell yeah, thanks op. Heres the goblin from yesterday but with a different expression and a belly plate. Might make the skull into a little cauldron or something too. Not sure yet, I also hate the rock base so I may make it a hoard of snotlings carrying him around.
>>
>>97590424
Excellent work. How long have you been sculpting for?
>>
>>97590424
Snotlings would be too much. It would cheapen the sculpt work you did
>>
>>97590444
I've been sculpting miniatures for 3 years I wanna say?
>>
>>97590480
It'd probably look too busy, you're right. I guess this dudes just gonna ride around on a rock.
>>
>>97590115
I like how they look right now, honestly.
>>
>>97590527
You could make other changes like adding more props or go more vertical etc. it’s adding more faces specifically that I think would be a detriment to the composition.
>>
>>97590684
Other characters (snotlings) being the more faces. You could add a face with a banner or shield or whatever if it’s part of the goblin’s kit.
>>
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>>97589522
Borys of Fire from Dark Sun
>>
>>97590691
You're speaking a lot of sense, anon. I'll just keep him on the rocks, he's a shaman so he can just have a fucking rock chair man. Excited to paint him up after I finish my orc boss.
>>
Haven't had a chance to work on this since last time, but looking at it again I'm really hating how the hair came out. Anyone have any good recommendations for better orange paint? I think I want to strip the head and start again.
>>
reminder that if you are american you should use american terminology. eurofag esls need not respond.
>>
>>97590255
I will link this video every time someone complains about trim. maybe eventually some one will actually try it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ej_DTLtil2I
>>
reminder to not reply to 0 effort shitposts
>>
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>>97591018
I just paint the trim first when there's a lot of it.
>>
>>97591018
Miss me with that gimmick shit. Panels first, trim second, brush only.
>>
>>97591018
I don't see how this is in any way easier or more effective than painting trim with the side of a brush. It even has the same risk of marking the panels if you overflow or get the angle wrong.
>>
>>97590827
I can barely see what's going on through the phone filter.

>>97590921
What's wrong with it? Looks like proper redhead color.
>>
>>97591180
It's not as vibrant as I want it. I want a bright ginger look, practically like a Dwarf Slayer or the most Irish person you've ever met. I based it in Skrag brown and then Jokaero orange, but that is the most washed out orange paint I've ever seen. Totally desaturated, barely even an orange IMO.
>>
>>97591150
rubbing paint off is easier than putting it on
>>
>>97591233
>>97591180
This color swatch is a huge scam. Unless I somehow got a fucked up pot or it's mislabeled, it's just straight up not the same color in the slightest.
>>
>>97591233
That's what it looks like in real life. You want a hair dye bimbo?
>>
>>97591310
Oh yeah, those swatches are bullshit. Use Stahly's or something.
>>
>>97591310
Citadel's swatches are notoriously idiotic, to a point I would call criminal.
>>
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>>97591233
We talking like this vibrant or more red-orange?
>>
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Painting 10th Tomb Guard, will finally have a finished unit soon. Please excuse the slightly out of focus image
>>
>>97591310
I do blame whoever made that colour swatch, but Jokaero Orange has always been a special paint. It's not meant to be a final orange, it's not meant to be vibrant or really orange at all. It's supposed to be a paint with very high coverage, which you can then put the real, true, orange paint over it. Trollslayer Orange is the shade of paint you're looking for, it's GW's real vibrant orange shade.

And I mean, if you looked at it in-person at a store, the shade of the Jokaero Orange paint pot looks exactly like what it's supposed to.

Anyways, here's a megadogshit comparison pic of two orange contrast paints over white. On the right is Gryph-Hound Orange, and its only real usage (as far as I can tell) is to be thinned down and shade over orange. On the left is Magmadroth Flame and THIS is the real shit, it's amazing, it's super vibrant and goes on over one thin layer over a white base.
>>
>>97591488
what the fuck is that mess anon, clean your workspace please
>>
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>>97591488
holy shit is that a CITADEL MOLD LINE REMOVAL TOOL?
>>
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I enjoy painting Grim Dark sloppa
>>
>>97591233
>I want dwarf mohawk orange
>should I use the paint that's literally named for that?
>NO
I hate paints that lie about what color they are as much as anyone else, but there were multiple things you could have been doing aside from complaining about it here for the last 2 weeks
>>
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I'm going to sponge gunmetal back on, the wash made it look pretty gross and grimey

Then I'll pinwash the light armour sections.

I have so many of these little guys to paint
>>
>>97591393
Not quite into that range of yellow for a highlight, but that's probably fairly close. Something along the lines of bright slayer hair
>>97591488
I'd ordered it online so I didn't see it in person when I bought it. Magmadroth flame looks great having looked it up over different base coats. I feel like I'd get more use out of a conventional orange paint, but it is tempting. AK Deep Orange has caught my eye.
>>
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He's EVIL
>>
>>97591574
I do kinda love the mold line remover. It's a hefty hunk of metal that I have no worry about snapping off and shooting into my eye. I can be a bit harsh with it, I can really scrape as rough as I want.
>>
>>97591845
nta but I usually use it to clean base rims, works really nicely for that
>>
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>>97591845
>>97591868
Its sturdiness means it also works well on metal models. I have a lot of metal models.
>>
>>97591845
wait you guys don't wear safety glasses when you're working with pointy objects?
>>
>>97591826
>I feel like I'd get more use out of a conventional orange paint
You'd be shocked at how little it's used in miniature painting. The pigments are just so weak, you would need a lot of layers to build up coverage.
For me, I've just bit the bullet and accepted that my, "base orange paint," is Corax White with Magmadroth Flame, this is what I'd use to touch up mistakes.

If you look online at painting orange for miniature models, there are broadly 3 methods:
1: Start with a bright, near white undercoat, then brush on a vibrant transparent orange. Orange Inks were what people used to use, but Magmadroth Flame has really become popular among orange fans.
2: Use miniature paints that are a bit more subdued than orange, like a warm brown, cream, bone, then layer over with something like a flesh/red ink that pushes up the saturation. This was, and still is, how a lot of people paint orange hair.
3: Airbrush orange paint over a white base. In a lot of the older GW digital and printed guides from the early 2010s, this is just flat out how they got super smooth base coats of vibrant colours on their models. When they give orange painting guides in the magazine, this is nearly always mentioned.

Honestly, just look up some guides, see what looks good, and try those exact paints. Buy some other paints, try those as well. Have fun. There's no real wrong answers here.

I would recommend getting Citadel Skrag Brown (Two Thin Coats Dry Rust Brown is an >99% match) and Fire Dragon Bright (AK Light Orange or Pro Acryl Orange). I really, really love the shade of Skrag Brown, you can water it down and make rust streaks, it's great. Fire Dragon Bright is a bit of a pastel, salmon orange that you can use as the final highlight for reds, browns and oranges. Because I use so little paint for highlights, I actually prefer them being in GW style paint pots, where I can get out a tiny brushful of it, I feel like I would be wasting most of a single drop from a dropper bottle.
>>
>>97591955
NTA but I don't wear safety glasses when doing stuff like using my chainsaw or angle grinder.
>>
Reposting why not
>>
>>97591826
Alright, the example I gave was pink highlighted with white then coated with Iyanden Yellow, so if a three-step process is acceptable, you could play around with ice yellow or pastel pink off-white highlights to get the orange you want.
>>
My fucking cat is always trying to drink my paintbrush water.
>>
>>97592133
He wants to be a painter and it's the only way he knows how to get started.
>>
I HATE how every freakin painting tutorial on YouTube EXCLUDES airbrushing from their workflows because they have to appeal to POORFAGS that live in mud huts. I can’t find SHIT for learning to incorporate airbrushing into my workflow. FUCK all the casual speed painting shortcut BULLSHIT. Teach me how to make fucking ART. FUCK
>>
>>97592337
Lol, look at this fag who can't into brushwork. I bet you use AI to do your homework for you, eh kiddo?
>>
>>97592337
I've only ever seen two schools of airbrush use, the first are those who just use it to do the primer and base coats.
Thee second are those who apparently throw away their brushes and only ever paint with the airbrush, every project seemingly becomes an OSL nightmare.
I'm not aware of more than a small number of rare exceptions who only add it to their toolbelt, and those few don't have youtube channels.
>>
>>97592012
every time I have to replace my safety glasses because they're too scratched to see clearly through anymore I feel appreciation to norm abram for telling me to wear them.
>>
>>97592337
stop looking at warhammer videos those are all made for children and retards. look for videos of people painting scale models.
>>
>>97592058
there is nothing quite like a whole squad painted up
>>
>>97592337
there's a bunch of airbrush tutorials. just put that word in the search bar you fucking retard
>>
>>97592406
I've been at this habit for around 25 years now and haven't had an issue yet.
>>
>>97592181
I think she just gets a perverse pleasure from being told "No!"
>>
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Anyone ever use this stuff? How is it? Anything else that works like it?
>>
3 of my friends are buying 3d printers just to play warhammer. Farewell, shitty game stores! I will only play private games for the rest of my life.
>>
>>97592337
The best thing you can do is look at more general plastic model kit channels. Warhammer-only stuff is almost always made to appeal to the GW fanboy demographic who only uses their company approved painting methods.
>>
>>97592488
For fucks sake, this got me a temporary ban?!
I'll report anons for derailing with talk of videogames or discussing how (literally) gay they are and nothing comes of it, but gods forbid I make note of a pet attempting to get at my paint water in the painting general!
>>
>>97592337
you can get a low end airbrushing setup for less than the price of two winsor newton series 7s
>>
>>97592760
Those cheap compressors are awful, though. Getting a good compressor is the only cost prohibitive thing about airbrushing.
>>
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>>97587904
>Contrast paint over metallic undercoat does have an appeal to it, I can see how someone could prefer it over colored metallics.

I'd have to get a refresher on how that looks but what I recall of it with Akhelian Green didn't look bad at all. The only problem with this method if I want to use an airbrush though is that whatever goes on top of doesn't adhere to the layer of silver very well. Like 95% of it might stick on, but small flakes of it end up disappearing after it settles, like if it chipped off. It could be the conditions or the paint, or how the metal coat isn't exactly primer, but it's happened with both fairly translucent (Leviathan Purple) and opaque (Black Templar) contrasts in my experience. That is, without any thinner - just a little flow improver/retardant.
>>
>>97592777
I mean kinda yeah, but a good airbrush and a compressor with a tank will each cost about as much as a GW kit. Over time I've come to really enjoy brush painting more, but it took me a while to break out of the GW "recipe" of

>flat uniform base color
>wash
>edge highlight
>>
>>97592793
>Leviathan Purple
I'm not exactly a Citadel aficionado but LP is the most opaque contrast paint I've found aside from Black Legion. For Alpha Legion specifically I'd go for something like Aeldari Emerald or Terradon Turquoise over silver if one insists on Citadel paint, or Vallejo Caribbean Turquoise / Speedpaint Caribbean Ocean if not.
>>
>>97589701
I think some faint lines going down the middle of the vent (top to bottom) would look nice.
>>
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>>97591843
MYEHH
>>
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>>97589522
>>
>>97593155
The yellow one is the best one
>>
>https://wargamesatlantic.com/collections/hobby-tools/products/hard-plastic-nano-files

Anybody got experience with these files? Are they genuinely good?
I remembered gunpla files and I tried looking for the same product wga has that is less priced thinking this is another example of us mini painters copying homework from makeup and gunpla but I didn’t find any “copies.”

I’m assuming they aren’t very good for resin, 3d printed resin and metal.
If true then for those materials what diamond file grit is best?
>>
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My not-so converted walkers have been caught up to the dragoon. Im starting to near the end of the cleanup step, which means I can finally go back to my infiltrators and ruststalkers.
>>
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>When the skitarii takes it personally
>>
>>97592959
I was mistaken it for another, it was Luxion Purple. Was used a handful of times, one on a test model and sparingly for some simple muzzle burn, also made a cool rose kinda color on gold. Vallejo's speedpaints look cool too, but I'm not too confident with the layered method if the adhesion is bad.
>>
When I was in elementary school, my art teacher used to tell me 'Son, you need to be more patient. Even when you think you made a complete mess, you need to wait until the painting is completely dry, and only after that you try to fix it.' Decades later I'm holding a brush again for miniature painting. Does her words still hold true in miniature painting?
>Mrs. Lee I miss you
>>
>>97593660
Yes, but often times in the opposite direction. Shit like red looks fine when you paint it, but turns transparent after it dries. Sometimes you want to be real quick and get the paint out of the mini before it dries, though.
>>
>>97593712
So, no then?
>>
So what's up with the Army Painter brushes? I remember buying some ten years ago that lasted half a decade of constant use, these new ones go back the second I use them.
>>
>>97593510
What a whimsical color scheme.
>>
>>97592984
I'll try that then, thanks.
>>
>>97590142
With some putty you can easily fill them and if you properly smooth them out, with a wet finger works fine, you can use a toothpick to lightly press holes while the putty hasn't cured yet. This creates softer edges compared to drilling the holes. Practice on a spare bit to see what hole size looks best.
>>
>>97590142
very easy to fill with putty. Use a type of putty that is sandable, like milliput. Greenstuff is NOT sandable. It should be fairly easy to drill out some new holes once the putty has fully cured, alternatively you can use a metal sculpting tool to sculpt the puts while the putty is still workable.
>>
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i think this is rhe this first time im semi satisfied with how black leather turned out. What can i do to improve it?
>>
>>97590227
Like that one Anon said, do some work on weapons OR paint the webbing of the wings on that Manticore.
>>
>>97592807
>good airbrush and a compressor with a tank will each cost about as much as a GW kit
[x]
Good airbrush costs way, way more than that. Compressor, too.
>>
>>97594138
I would say that, based on my local prices, good airbrush with compressor alone cost equivalent of 8-10 typical GW kits. Or 3 Combat Patrols or 2 Battleforce sets.
>>
>>97593660
If she was talking metaphorically, like "you need to paint the whole painting before making a judgement on which parts look good" then yeah she's right, a lot of the time I think something is starting to look awful when it's just got one or two basecoats on but once its got all of them and some washes and highlights I'm happier with it.
If she meant literally then no, if you're painting some freehand design and accidentally slop up a line it's much easier to quickly wipe it away with a wet brush before it dries than it is to wait until after and then try to go over it with another color.
>>
>>97593996
It looks pretty great already, honestly. Maybe try to make the edge highlights kinda jagged and irregular? That would add to the weathered feel.
>>97593514
>>97593510
Nice and clean, I like your dark color scheme.
>>97593155
Those dot patterns look cool!
>>97592058
Very moody, I think you nailed the grimdark feel.
>>97591843
Have you considered making one of your main colors darker? Would definitely add some contrast and make him more visually interesting.
>>97591799
I like the cream+gold scheme, looks very... ornate? For the lack of a better word.
>>97591744
I think you're doing a nice job so far, feels very "real". The face is a nice touch, too.
>>
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Goop.
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>>97589701
>The execution on the top vents for the lines obviously wasn't very successful in the left picture as I'm now realizing
Cameras are the worst critic. With my half blind eyes I always think I am a master of chiaroscuro. Then I take a pic and it looks like I fingerpainted it.
>>
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>>97594337
I've no plan with the demon prince just vibing it out
>>
>>97594420
deliciously goopy, anon
>>
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Blue guys to fight my green guys. Bases being prepared.
I painted these almost a year ago, and I am noticing so many mistakes.
Also don't like how I used the same brown color on the belts, bags and wood parts of guns and tube containers on their backs.
>>
Anyone know if you can use a clear glossy enamel like X-22 for a gloss coat layer? I'm thinking of adding only a few spots of gloss to a model that has already been sprayed matte.
I'm thinking about using an enamel rather than my usual acrylics because it should level out to be smoother than something like 'ardcoat, and should be more durable in the long term.
>>
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Basing ideas? I feel like going for too much of a contrast might be a mistake. I don't like low effort basing though.
>>
>>97594515(me)
I'm not considering using lacquer for this because I don't want to bother masking any areas off and just want to brush paint the gloss.
Plus I'm terrible at airbrushing lacquers and always get orange peel anyways.
>>
>>97594518
Perhaps something like leaves or dust blowing out from underneath them? Make it look like their jetpacks are really kicking up the ground below them.
>>
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Just finished a molten gold/metal golem.

No clue what to use it for, most probably a homonculous for Trench crusade.
>>
>>97589900
gallery-dl supports 4chan, it's insanely easy to run too. You'd still need to sort through all the images to filter out any pics that don't belong though.
>>
>>97594561(me)
bam
It even sorts the pictures into specific board and thread subfolders
>>
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Palette cleanser from basecoating trim...still wip, i've only done nmm seriously once before still learning still blocking out

Throwing a black green shadow on the purple armor cuz im just winging it all
>>
So, again (since someone else discussed this before for sure) - assuming I would make wash out of oil paints by generously thinning it with white spirit, would leaving it to dry overnight be enough or I need to wait longer before going for layering, highlights and the like?
>>
>>97594531
That sounds a bit too crazy, I don't know how I would do that.
>>
>>97594724
I always wait at least 24 hours for oils to dry. If it's heavily thinned, you might get away with less.
>>
>>97594726
dust would be the easier option, you'd just make a small lump in the right shape out of cotton wool and put some pigment powders on top. For leaves you'd just glue them together into a wave (btw there's a million different kinds of seeds, tea leaves and off-the-shelf products that are good for making scale leaves).
>>
>>97594726
>>97594756(me)
https://www.flamesofwar.com/Default.aspx?tabid=110&art_id=416&kb_cat_id=24
>>
Can I effectively filer my IPA to clear all the paint out of it so I don't have to dump it? I just stripped part of a mini and instead of settling at the bottom, all the paint just turned it brown. Will something like a coffee filter work or are the pigments too small for that?
>>
>>97593660
I don't know what they're going on about, how it looks dry isn't the point, she was probably talking about over-working semi-dry paint.
There's a very short window where you can completely wash away (or wet blend) freshly applied paint, after which it skins over and you'll clump it or tear it if you mess with it. After that window of time it's better to just paint over 100% dry paint.
>>
>>97594803
look up how 3d printing people clear their iso, though a coffee filter will probably work fine
>>
>>97594803
Don't see the point of doing that, honestly. IPA is cheap to buy in bottles and if you intend to use it for stripping, it makes no sense since any mini will have to be washed and cleaned with soap and warm water after IPA bath anyway. Yes, coffee filter would work but again, you are essentially wasting time and effort on something you can buy for ~6€ for 1L.
>>
>>97594803
There's also the question of why you need your paint stripping IPA to be clear.
I recommend Simple Green instead, safe for resin and lifts the paint instead of reactivating it.
>>
>>97594821
This reminds me that I need to buy another 5L jug of isopropyl alcohol.
>>
>>97594803
Give the pigments a week or two to settle down, it can take some time. Keeping the IPA somewhat cool might help. A coffee filter might catch larger bits of sludge, but I doubt it'll manage any individual pigment particles. Also keep in mind that even if you manage to get rid of all the solid particles your IPA probably also has some of the paint's binder straight up dissolved in it, and things in solution never settle out.
Of course, you could also just keep using the IPA as-is for quite a while. It doesn't need to be clean to strip minis. Eventually it'll get completely buggered by pigments, binder, and the alcohol just plain evaporating away, but it's a far bit to that from it just not looking very good.
>>
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>>
>Nothing primed that I want to paint
>Snowing out so I can't prime anything
I guess it's a build day
>>
>>97594724
when you are working with something that has to dry always put a little bit on a test piece. the little plastic cups I use to mix shit in come with lids so I smear some oil on the lid and keep it on my bench so I can poke it to see if it's dry without having to touch my actual workpiece.
>>
>>97595025
Why do you all feel like priming has to occur outside?
>>
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Finished after 4 months of being lazy
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WIZARD PROGRESS
He's actually going to be the Inquisition Agents Mystic, but close enough to a wizard. My homebrew lore is that he's been exiled from his Navigator house, so they removed his 3 eyes then bound his face.
Questions for you anons ITT, should I have blood weeping from his eyes or would that be too much detail for a relatively busy model?
Additionally, for his orb should i use a neat color changing paint or paint the orb as an eyeball that he uses to see?
>>
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>>97595262
And another pic of his cape

>>97594988
I like the bug mount, what is it from?
>>
>>97595262
>Questions for you anons ITT, should I have blood weeping from his eyes or would that be too much detail for a relatively busy model?
Not enough room for it between the binding and the beard IMO.
>>
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For the first time in my life I've managed to wetblend stuff in a way that somewhat pleases me, obviously the lighter trim at the bottom needs a lot more work and I need to clean up some of the edges but at least it looks acceptable at a distance I've already stripped this wing 4 times now, hence the random gunk around the edges, which fucking sucks but I really gotta move on instead of going for a 5th try
Question is, how am I supposed to add more "definition" without fucking it up? Washing the whole thing with some flesh wash seems like a waste, the little grooves on the wings are not deep enough to actually work with it, and manually highlighting each "ridge" looks a bit uncanny (it fucked up one of my previous attempts)
Last thread (not the one linked in the OP, the actual last thread) had a similar pair of wings, and I suspect the author picked off each wound and scratch with a deep reddish colour and called it a day?
>>
>>97595361
>spoiler text
Why? you're not talking the plot of a fucking movie, use brackets. Im not hovering over that shit.
>>
>>97595402
Welcome newfriend, spoilers are often used for comedic effect on 4chan.
>>
>>97595361
Take this chance to learn some layering. That way you can add subtler shading and highlights. Slowly add a darker or lighter shade to your midtone and build definition that way
>>
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>>97595276
Moonstone
>>
>>97595436
>>97594988
Top tier greenstuff skills
>>
>>97595402
I unno, sounds funnier like this

>>97595419
Under each ridge, you mean? Because when I tried highlighting them, it ended up jarring, the flesh looked like it was covered with stripes like a race car
>>
>>97595460
Well don't do stark edge highlights. Add a little bit of your highlight color to your midtone, do a pass and keep adding the lighter tone while covering progressively less surface. Go watch Vinces video on layering or something, I'm not good at explaining shit
>>
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>>97595361
Drybrushing is your friend for the wing membranes.
>>
>>97595436
i like her beady little eye and shiny under carriage
many tyranid players have tried to replicate that but sadly few succeed
>>
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Who else makes their own sprue glue here? I opened my bottle of liquid green stuff from a million years ago and it’s useable but I needed something slippy-er for teeny tiny mold gaps.
>>
>>97595485
I've watched the entirety of Vince's library kek, but I've come to terms that these kinda things are really easy to explain and show but then you gotta bang your head against the wall to actually execute them; there's a myriad smaller details and techniques and decisions that go into each step, and all teachers (even Vince, who is easily the best one) inevitably gloss over them because "it's obvious".
To darken my midtone (tanned flesh) I can simply add a bit more dark brown, that should work

>>97595551
Fug that's true, I'm a bit spooked to do it on the inside since it's concave but I could use a really small brush and work them up a bit
>>
I noticed that there are numerous videos on YT about polishing airbrush needles and I wonder - is it really beneficial or just a meme that might as well do more harm than help?
>>
>>97595727
I've never done more than go over my needle with a paper towel wetted with 99% IPA and my airbrush has never once clogged or performed poorly
take that as you will
>>
>>97595727
lmao what the fuck, these people just make shit up for views at this point
>>
can I use a wire brush when stripping pewter citadel models with acetone or will that scratch and gouge the surface?
>>
>>97595733
I recall previous thread posts about how even small imperfections might affect it's performance. I assume that if you have high quality model, you likewise have high quality needle that was already polished to required level but I was wondering if attempting to polish cheaper models would actually bring some noticeable improvement. I mentioned possible harm since most of these methods involve using mechanical drill and similar devices and that could, with improper handling, result in bending (here I assume that cheaper needles are made from softer material).

Just thinking aloud and hoping that someone here have some related experience.
>>
>>97595746
well you can use exacto knife to scrape them clean same as plastic models too so dont do that
if you need little tougher brushing experienxe then start with nail brush and then move onto toothbrush
>>
>>97595686
>Fug that's true, I'm a bit spooked to do it on the inside since it's concave but I could use a really small brush and work them up a bit

Just mask off the areas you don't want to hit with painter's tape or just plain old sticky notes.
>>
>>97595727
If that's necessary then you should probably reconsider your "always buy the cheapest Temu has to offer" policy.

>>97595589
I have. Not much to say about it. I tossed some bits of sprue into an old Tamiya paint pot, filled it up with acetone, and a few days later it was a homogenous bit of goo.

>>97595746
That sounds like a bad idea.
>>
>>97595727
There's a very, very marginal benefit at best, to a point it's imo not worthy it. My favorite airbrush source (an actual artist, not a sloptuber) think so, too.
https://www.youtube.com/@theartworkshop/
>>
Anyone have experience with the fallout miniatures? How easy they are to put together? painting experience with them? ty in advance
>>
>>97595746
Just use a toothbrush.
>>
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Lets gooo
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Finished the boring parts (just need to wash the metallics and highlight the leather).
Now comes the patterns and custom details for each marine.
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cereal bases

>>97595828
good luck anon
>>97595864
very nice boring parts
>>
well, i'm retarded. I forgot the prime one side of a shield so i tried using a spray can at my airbrush booth because it was just a small thing and there's still fucking snow outside. now my entire basement smells like fucking spray paint. i'm so fucking stupid
>>
>>97595926
Can't you just brush on your primer for something that small?
>>
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Got some new ak paints. They blend fairly well, need to try glazing but here's some shield action
>>
>>97595864
iron hands or black templars? also mind sharing your black recipe?
>>
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Here's a sqeeter, I have seven more after this. How do you guys like the colors?

I'm also slightly dreading removing the tape
>>
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And another angle
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>>97596006
Black templars. Heres some of their finised bros.
For the black:
>50/50 Maccrage blue and Vallejo matte model black
>Dark reaper highlight everywhere
>Thunderhawk blue highlight on the raised parts
>Fenrisian Grey or whited TH Blue for the peaks.
>>97595923
Thank you. Still dont know how I'll decorate the armor yet. Probably lightning patterns, diagonal lines etc.
>>
>>97596046
ty! and your templars look awesome. Im trying to decide on a new black scheme for my iron hands.
>>
Looking for some posing advice. What should I do for the dying guy's right arm? The left arm has been severed to just above the elbow.
>>
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>>97596172
And I forgot to post the picture.
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>>97596116
Iron hands will have a lot of metallics on them, maybe basecoat it with some grey metal before?
I've always wanted to paint a raven guard and iron hands mini to see kf I can make their black different from my Black Templars.
>>
>>97595979
Gorgeous old school look
>>
>>97595175
It's generally a bad idea to use rattlecans indoors, anon.
>>
>>97596183
>>97596209
glue the pauldron on but point it down and cover the rest with grass/bloody tufts
>>
>>97596263
I was thinking of doing that earlier today, but since I've committed to cutting off his left arm I'm trying to avoid that.
>>
>>97596304
only thing i can think then is a skeleton or zombie arm reaching up
>>
>>97596318
That does feel like the most natural thing to do for posing. Either by his side or reaching up.
>>
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Ho lee shit i won
>>
How would you go about stripping this off if it was a really durable primer that went on terribly? Durable enough that 90 IPA does fuck all.
>>
>>97596420
That's the neat thing, you don't!
Just one of the many reason brush on primer is superior.
>>
>>97596405
i like the little wings he gave to the horror unit champion
>>
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>>97593514
It's going to look even more whimsical when I add the oils and rusts. Im thinking I should add a streak of red to the transports. Im thinking a single one on the front of the gangway or on the sponsons.
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>>97596447
>brush on primer is superior
poorfag cope
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>>97590921
Reaper Red Hair Triad with a very diluted Agrax wash to blend and set the shadows. I also mix a tiny bit of the Blond Hair Highlight to the Orange for small areas to show bright light reflection. It's also a great red triad for cloth if you wash with purple.
>>
>>97596464
I am not subject to the whims of weather.
Cope.
>>
>>97596501
neither am I because I have an airbrush and I don't need to use brush on primer like an idiot
>>
>>97595926
what does that tell you about how effective your airbrush booth is?
>>
>>97596508
I'm lazy, even spray cans are too much work and effort for me. Hell with the clean up from an airbrush. I mix gesso with a color acrylic and slop it on my models. It shrinks to fit and results in a perfect primer every time.
>>
isopropyl alcohol is $6.59 per quart at cvs, but denatured alcohol is $5.47 per quart at home depot. is there any reason not to use it instead?
>>
>>97596538
>denatured alcohol
Is pretty toxic, wear good gloves.
>>
>>97596530
I was just shitposting man, use whatever you're comfortable with.
>>
>>97596420
did you accidentally buy the undebody spray instead of primer or how did you manage that
even army painter doesnt manage to do that in the wildest reddit airbrushing wet dreams
>>
>>97596538
>$1 saving
Incredible job, anon.
>>
>>97596495
Is it bad if I piss carrot top red
>>
>>97596563
Full disclosure, this isn't my image. But I am wondering if anyone has a solution to a catastrophic priming situation like this. I do have a couple of things that I'd like to strip due to a bit of texture on the primer, but it's nowhere near this level of fucked.
>>
>>97596538
>denatured alcohol
or hand sanitizer as its more commonly known, you know the stuff people used to strip their models with back in the day because it was more cheap and readily available to everyone than acetone and ipa
commercial sanitizer didnt strip plastic models all that good but then again most of the models were metal anyway
>>
>now, to scrape and sand 9 million little spindly tiny cylinder type pieces
Why the fuck did I buy a bunch of necrons?
>>
>>97596593
leave in warm water overnight to get the elmers glue basing off
then dip in ipa for some time and brush clean, if finecast then stay under 45minutes unless you want your models to turn into rubber for few weeks
>>
>>97596593
and just to add early days of paint stripping were a real wild west of hobbying, forums were like an alchemy labs because everyone had their own secret method of removing paint
some swore by the green, others used variety of brake fluids or other car oils or chemicals and or pantry stuff
kinda like how everyone had their own secret recipe of making washes from inks

these days its pretty straightforward, buy a wash if you need a wash and buy ipa if you want to strip
no alchemy needed
>>
>>97596654
>Why the fuck did I buy a bunch of necrons?
I mean crons are pretty cool, I like their new kill team a lot.
>>
>>97596909
Which killteam is the new one?
>>
>>97596911
Canoptek Circle
>>
>>97596736
>buy ipa if you want to strip
Say bye bye to your resin.
>>
>>97596515
they don't put things out at the same PSI
>>
>>97597307
You should wear a mask for airbrush booth, TRUE it doesn't have as much gas as spray cans but anything you turn to aerosol will escape.
>not learning about microparticles during the coof
>>
>>97596570
Not if you've been eating beets.
>>
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>>97595979
Orc update, got some paint on before I threw ribs on the grill.
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almost done with this
>>
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All I have to do now is apply snow effects to 'em
>>
I got some old second hand 3rd edition 40k models I'm trying to strip down and the old alcohol plus toothbrush method isn't making too much of a dent. This ancient paint won't fuck off. Thinking about buying one of those sonic cleaner things to help. Are they worth the investment and space or should I be doing this another way?
>>
>>97598246
If you are going to be stripping a LOT of models, and more in the future, I'd say they're worth it for the effort savings alone.
>>
>>97598246
it worked for me just last year. did you use something other than citadel paints? i soaked them for like a hour and then used a toothbrush while they were dunked in the alcohol.
>>
>>97598321
i was cleaning metal models though, so maybe plastic is different
>>
>>97598246
if they were primed with industrial primers you'll need heavier duty stuff.

>metal models
acetone is the easiest and fastest
>plastic models
engine degreaser, the purple kind, does work but you need serious PPE for that stuff because it causes severe chemical burns if it gets on your skin or clothing.
>>
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>>97595262
I went with an Eye of N'zoth type of look. I fucked up my basecoat by not mixing it enough, so it was too thick and too runny at the same time. Might try to lightly sand it smooth and paint it again
>>
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Returning to my blood bowl project. Would it be dumb to paint the rest a different scheme? Or should i keep them the same?
>>
>>97598630
G'day
>>
>>97598632
my life is over
>>
>>97597307
what does that have to do with anything? with something like ventilation you are worried about cfm, not psi.
>>
Question for the smart lads here:

If I was aiming to get a color like this, would I be fucked without an airbrush?

I was thinking of a basic path of: prime metallic, put thin contrast red over it, then gloss varnish it until happy - but that almost seems too simple. I'm not looking for 1:1 results here, but it's gonna be noticeable if it's rough 'cause a looot of this color will be prevalent.

I also don't know what reds would work for it, anyhow. I've got some Citadel contrasts, Bold Pyrrole Red, and access to more Momument and Turbo Dork.

Thank you for your time.
>>
>>97598689
>prime metallic
they make metallic primer?
>>
>>97598689
Short answer? Yes.
Long answer? It's technically possible, but it takes a bit of technique. For smaller panels you can put down a wet layer of medium then apply a smooth layer of a contrast paint mixed with a bit more medium. You can also use a clear red enamel paint instead of a contrast paint if you'd like (Tamiya x-27 clear red for example), since it will settle and dry much smoother than an acrylic will.
>>
>>97595239
I really like the trim on their jackets.
>>
>>97598630
It's a team right?
>>
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I'm not used to painting eyes yet. I think I've made him look lascivious.
>>
>>97597353
Looks good, should of resulted this shit boots
God Brian Nelson was the worst thing that happened to orcs
>>
>>97597299
Not really. Anon, how do you think resin is cleaned after printing? In IPA bath. You can strip resin minis with IPA just fine, the only difference is that you have to be careful to not to let it soak for too long. You can put plastic minis in IPA for ages and they will come out fine, the resin will start gradually getting weaker over time. The safe way to do it is like 10 or 15 minutes dip, check how it looks, and repeat until you can just scrub the paint off like usual.

Citadel Finecast, especially the older ones, are from shit resin, and might to get btfo fairly fast (like ten minutes) so you have to be careful with that, but everything else/more modern is completely fine.
>>
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Long hammer.
>>
>>97595727
if you have a chinessium airbrush with noticeable tooling marks on the needle sure, if your needle is smooth looking i won't matter
>>
>>97598689
This should work well enough:
https://youtube.com/shorts/3MdA3BylVXE
>>
>>97596209
i have nearly a thousand points of iron hands. Im looking for a new scheme, this isnt my first time painting them KEK
>>
>>97597459
Kewl.
>>
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>>97599044
>I'm not used to painting eyes yet
and photography
>>
>>97598689
Not necessarily but you need to research paint composition and try a few test runs to brush something on like this. Best bet is priming and then base coating metallics, but building up a metalic grisaille to mimic the light banding with that smooth reflection you get there. Starting with like a gunmetal metallic and moving up to a silver. Painting on thinned metallics with a brush can be tricky though, you need them to dry slowly so the powder can settle more evenly and you gotta know how much retarder to use.
After all that, you can put a red contrast layer over it.
>>
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>>97599254
To be honest, I don't see any problems with my needle. Unless that floating nozzle design is especially vulnerable to imperfections, more so than normal, screw-in nozzle.
>>
>>97599229
>dwarf
That's just a regular warhammer.
>>
>>97595589
>I opened my bottle of liquid green stuff from a million years ago and it’s useable
X
>>
>>97599229
Polehammer.
>>
>>97599862
You think that shit has eternal life?
>>
>>97599870
I know for a fact that it doesn't, this combined with the known shittiness of GW pots makes me doubt anon's claim that it was still usable.
>>
>>97599888
Oh sorry, I thought you were being sarcastic. Nice digits.
>>
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Progress.
The tedium is close to an end, halfway through cleaning all limbs.
Must think about the layout of the base, dont hesitate to drop idea.

>>97597353
Looking at him make me feel warm inside, anon.
Remembering good ol' times...

>>97595828
Hell yeah !

>>97594337
Yuru anon, its ok if you continue to use yuru reaction (at least, to me).
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Last time I used green stuff it only took a day to harden but this time it's been a week and it still hasn't fully hardened up. Does anyone know what might be going wrong here?
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>>97599954
Looking good anon, are you going to do any magnetizing?
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>>97599990
What ratio did you use and how hard do you thin it's supposed to get?
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>>97598630
If you did it smart, you could have "home" and "away" colors, but that would mean you would need 2 full sets.
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>>97599992
Thx. I have no use for it, plus Im not good at making magnetize parts.
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>>97600011
1 to 1 ratio and it should ger hard as plastic. It did the last time. I couldn't make a mark in it at all last time when I tested it.
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>>97600062
Greenstuff is always slightly elastic unless you make a harder ratio.
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>>97599790
that looks fine
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>>97593006this painting looks yummie. not a fan of the skull face, but the painting is chef's kiss.
>>
Progress on French employeed (though not all french) light to medium cavalry. Third from left is Burgundian and third from right is Genoese.
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Just finished my casino themed table
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>>97600187
neat
what game will be played on it
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>>97600187
For?
>>
Alpha Legion poster here. I picked up my Vallejo TMM bottles. At a glance, the paint in the Hydra Turqoise bottle looks like almost a perfect match for Akhelian Green. This seems very promising.

I'll make some tests and post the results once flu is no longer making me wish for death.
>>
>>97596420
airbrush primer will save you from this.
Did you try using isoprophyl liquid? it is used to clean computers etc. It should do the work. leave it for 5/10 minutes. then gently with a used toothbrosh scrape the paint off.
>>
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>>97597299
>>97599126
3 of these 4 obliterators are made from finecast and were left in IPA for 4 hours by accident and melted away
bet you cant quess which ones
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Shield with heraldry of burgundy.

I kind of cheated by printing out a piece of paper of it, gluing it on, then painting over it by hand so it blends in. So not true freehand, but I don't think it stands out too much, especially after I put a top coat on it
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>>97600266
hopefully the results are good. my local store just started selling them and I like turqoise so I was thinking of using them for my new tau battlesuits.
>>
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Finished a not-quite-stock Slaughterpriest.
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And a mostly done skullgrinder.
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>>97598689
Contrast over metallic is your best bet. This video is your best bet for both what to do and what kind of result you can realistically expect. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hjGFNN6HLkQ
>>97598697
Leadbelcher has been around for a long time, dead internet doesn't know when but at least 10 years.
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>>97600212
Blackjack and roulette by the looks of it.
I would guess Fallout, if it's set in the Gomorrah but I don't recognize the koi ponds.
>>
>>97598689
Obligatory:
Tamiya Clear Red
Vallejo Air 71.065 Steel - this specific paint has amazingly strong pigment and is great for mixing colored metallics (maybe not completely "candy coat" like your example, but still super useful)
>>
>>97593282
Thank it's my least favorite but that's on account of my hate for yellow paints >>97594337
Thanks, I'm shit at freehand but spots are achievable
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>>97594616
Very nice, UR getting a lot of pop out of muted colors
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>>97598689
If I were to approach this, I'd experiment with colorshift paints. They give a nice pearlescent finish when you put them over colors other than black.

I have several ideas how this could work, in order of complexity from least to most complex.
1) vallejo TMM red
1) gold > tamiya clear red
2) gold > red contrast > gloss coat
3) gold > tamiya clear red > color shift paint > gloss coat
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>>97600398
>maybe not completely "candy coat"
You just raised every /o/tist's blood pressure by at least 10 points.
Just put the metallic on first and the clear red on second.
>>
>>97600411
You will NOT get a candy coating by mixing VAir Steel with plain paints, just nice-looking colored metallics.
That's why I mentioned Tamiya Clear Red.
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>>97600422
>You will NOT get a candy coating by mixing
That is all. C O A T I N G. Two stages.
>>
>the Council of Red Paint Autists is in session
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>>97600429
Sorry, I didn't realize you were retarded. Never mind me then.
>>
>97600444
Wasting trips on bait.
>>
>>97600433
Who would argue about the worst color? baka
>>
>>97600212
>>97600213
Malifaux mostly. Maybe MCP.
>>
>>97600512
>>97600523
Is Malifaux in a better state than it was when /awg/ was dunking on them? It has some surface things I like about it (imagine goblins vs undead pirates in a casino) but it didn't sound like it was in a good place.
>>
>>97600531
NTA but new edition looks promising. The main drawback for me is only 3 other people in my area play it and two of them are complete man childs, so I only play with a friend with 2 of my own crews from time to time. It's a fun game and I think it's better if you don't care about what other people say (browsing awg genuinely killed the fun for me for a while) and stay away from competitive play
>>
>>97600531
A new edition just dropped and I think the game is in a really great spot. The app is very well made and the new changes this edition fix a lot of my grievances from the previous edition; namely armor stacking and how pervasive playing models out of keyword was. I recommend it. Find a few friends who would be willing to give it a try and learn together. For a miniature game, it's pretty approachable to buy in and start up.
>>
>>97600567
I mean, you basically confirmed what /awg/ said, L community.
>>
>>97600634
I dont see how that is a uniquely Malifaux problem. Tabletop gaming in general is going to draw out more autists into the hobby. I'm fortunate enough to have a large playgroup that we can insulate/curate who we play games with.
>>
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Finally finished 10 of these skellies
>>
Tried to experiment with doing an oil wash but seems I left it standing for too long and now the attempts to rub the oil off with mineral water isn't working. I have an acryllic varnish protecting the core paint so that should generally be protected, but I want to check what I should use to strip the oil paint just in case of accidentally picking something that would fuck with the varnish.
>>
>>97600753
>with mineral water
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>>97599761
>you need them to dry slowly so the powder can settle more
this is the opposite of what I have been told before, which is that you want them to dry quickly so that the flakes remain distributed and don't all settle to the bottom.
>>
>>97600378
leadbelcher isn't primer I'm pretty sure
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>>97600823
okay spray paint or whatever gw calls them
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>>97600827
that's just base coating then not priming
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>>97600836
we're not doing this again
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>>97600823
Yeah, it's only primer if it's from the Primaeur region of Quebec. Otherwise it's just sparkling moron.
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>>97600838
why are you so hostile to using exact terminology?
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>>97600794
Mistyped because juggling a few things. Meant Mineral Spirits.
>>
Whats the downside to brush primer? I would probably be using it solely for sylvaneth models at the moment.
>>
>>97600917
Personally I don't think there is one. I've brushed the Vallejo primer on and have been happy with it.
>>
>>97600917
I use Vallejo black and white brush-on primers and the black is perfectly serviceable, almost identical to spraycans. White Vallejo primer is one of the worst things I've ever had to work with, it has the consistency of rinsed semen and it makes me wanna kill myself every time

>>97600362
Fukken neat
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>>97600940
white of any variety is terrible for base coating, it's just the reality of white pigments.
>>
>>97600917
>Whats the downside to brush primer?
It takes for ages, unless you have some small elements you're working on that doesn't require a lot of primer.
>>
>>97600950
I see airbrushed/spray canned white primer and it looks fine, I think my bottle is genuinely fucked or something, makes me feel like a semen artist every time
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>>97601005
There's one good white GW primer and one bad one. I don't remember the names because I don't use them.
I've tried priming with damn near everything else though. The best white primers I've used are Vallejo through an airbrush, and all-surface craft paint dabbed on the Artis Opus way.
Probably the worst differences I've had between primers was 2x spray cans, and liquitex pro gesso. 2x white is hydrophobic, and white gesso has horrible coverage, while both were fine in black.
Most of the time I prime in black, I only prime in white if I'm trying to go retro.
>>
>>97601054
CRAFTSPERG ALERT
>>
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everyone likes to talk about airbrushes but how about air compressors
what size do you prefer and does need to be totally silent or do you use the cheap 30 liter one you might have in your garage
>>
>>97601059
I'm sure craftsperg would rather slit his wrists than buy a GW rattlecan
>>
>>97601059
>>97601063
I do sperg out about craft materials but I'm not *that guy*. I don't use craft paints for general painting but the all-surface ones are good for priming.
I got the idea from a model trains youtuber actually.
>>97601061
Cheap one that came in a set with my airbrush for $100. It's fairly quiet and you don't need that much PSI comparatively.
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>>97601061
I have the #2. Sparmax tc-620x. I love it very much.
>>
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>>97601061
I sue the standard Chinesium airbrush-compressor-with-tank. Sold under a billion names by a billion retailers, but clearly all from the same factory. It works. Not terribly loud (a far cry from a garage compressor), but I'll probably splurge on a more silent one whenever this one breaks.
>>
>>97601061
I got the Master Airbrush Cool Runner II with tank from amazon, works well so far. The compressor is quieter than the fans for the filter hood I use.
>>
>>97601126
ye I got myself an Aero-Pro HTC 20A oil compressor it is like 3x the price of the cheap china ones, but man I never want to go back, the oil compressor is just humming a bit, difference in noise is huge

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rb040IzQGbA
>>
>>97600917
Easier to drown details in it, in my experience. I once applied it to set of Infinity minis, after few I simply stripped the rest and sprayed primer from the can.
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>>97595864
Spent the afternoon doing some customisation.
Some are nothing at all, while I think I spent a solid 2 hours on Zenitsu up there.
Next will be the leather highlights, and maybe battle damages.
Also fuck, I noticed I'll have to remove Zenitsu's left arm since I will write scriptures on their tabards. Goddamit, I just noticed now.
>>
>>97601061
Meanwhile at my local shops pretty much the only option is to get Chinese compressor. But that's okay, pressure is pressure, tank is tank and they are not very loud anyway.
>>
>>97601061
unless noise is really important just get whatever has the biggest tank you can afford. even then you're still probably better off getting the bigger one and putting it in a different room where you can't hear it and running an air line to your work station.
>>
>>97601063
>>97601076
Trying too hard
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And the big guy's done.
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>>97589522
Any advice on how to reliably make very, very tiny studs (ex. the ones around the trim and edges of space marine armours)?
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>>97601565
droplets of superglue
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>>97600711
These are very good and I have no notes, but here's a (you) of me telling you they're very good.
>>
>>97601565
>>
>>97601565
hole punch and thick foil
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>>97599093
Brian nelson absolutely fucked up orcs for me until I actually got into Warhammer properly and got a bunch of old metals.
Just finished him up and he's ready to fuck ass and take toes then suck on those toes.
>>
>>97601708
Thank you anon, I appreciate it
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>>97600711
Fantastic
>>
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i think the metals are done
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>>97601565
tin sheets an the back of drill bits for punching
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>>97602050
>the back of drill bits
explain
>>
>>97602466
nta but you just use them as sticks and poke the sheet with their butts to produce round bits
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>>97598353
>>97598321
>>97598305
Thanks all, these are plastic and have been soaking in 90% alcohol for an hour then hit with a toothbrush. The set of legs is on its third dunk and also had some cut away with a knife due to thickness. No clue what they were primed in before. The red one which I'm assume was a word bearer at some point is the most stubborn. I'm willing to bet this paint has been on since probably the early 2000s.
>>
>>97602466
this >>97602670
you push them into the sheet over a soft surface like a silicon mat or something
you can use just about any shape with a defined edge like screwdrivers to get other fancy shapes as in that picture

see it in action
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AFa3CqreZM4
>>
>>97602694
those look like either the 2003 or 2006 versions of the plastic chaos space marines so you are probably right about the time frame. You might need the engine degreaser for those
>>
>>97602728
That's crazy to even think about, but I'll look into picking some up. It's either that or a $70 piece of hardware I barely have room for, so may as well try that first. Thanks for the tip. I've heard La's Totally Awesome is also worth a look into.
>>
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Not buying new models is the best hobby decision I’ve ever made. I’m actually getting through my pile of shame and am being forced to get creative with my kitbashing.
Now just to get them painted. Haha.
>>
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First time doing them so thicc, it felt good doing stripes for a change.
Adjustments and weathering later

>>97600266
Curious to see your opinion indeed.

>>97600711
Love 'em !
>>
>>97602670
I still don't get it my drill shanks are all flat. how are you going to punch anything with them?
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>>97602956
>>
>>97603046
my drill bits all have chamfered ends. call me dyel if you want but I couldn't even punch through a coke can with one.
>>
>>97600300
Pretty sure they're supposed to look that melted, anon.
Jokes aside, sorry for your loss.
>>
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Shiiiiiet took me like 4+ hours to build 5 raveners, new GW models are neat but sometimes i miss the oldhammer stuff that just had 2-4 pieces.
>>
What do you use to prime a large amount of models at once? I've always used a paint stirrer, but they're so short I can only fit about 5 models on the stick comfortably, maybe 1 or 2 more if they're small models. Iim gonna have a LOT of shit to prime come Spring and I'd like to try and waste as little time and primer as I can.
>>
>>97603160
my favorite part about oldhammer models was that i would build them in sensible assemblies, build a torso and legs, paint it, paint the arms and gun, attach to leg/torso, paint head, glue it in.
now i have to paint a bicep, half a robe, the front portion of a jaw and maybe a foot, then paint a back of robe, remainder of jaw, hand (the other one) and entire2 handed weapon, then face, both legs, one arm and backpack as a third peice.
its just real frustrating being unable to just group heres all the bits with skin, and the bits with armor, and heres 20 shields to paint without needing half a spinly chunk of dude hanging off the back.
also i hate pegs, except the ones on old dread arms.
tactical rocks can get fucked though, gimmie a slotta i can embed in foam and greenstuff IF I WANT, not a stone pile i need to remove for my mechanicus bases
>>
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>>97603407
I also use paint stirrers.

I painted up a test on one of my screwed up castings tonight. I learned a thing. I hate synthetic brushes.
>blaming the tools
I know, I know. But I was trying to do basic solid blocks of colors and then more opaque midtones for blending, and I've been trying to use cheaper synthetics for base coats like that, but for the life of me I couldn't get the synthetic brushes to stop leaching way too much water into the paint and every time I'd put more paint on it it would start fine and then get super watery as I used the paint up and get very coffee stainy. It was really weird. I switched back to my sable brushes and everything was fine and the paint stayed where I put it.

Anyway, goth vampire dark elf.
>>
>>97603407
i have variety of wooden planks in my room corner from 5-30 minis length that i cover with tape and go to town with on my balcony
>>
>>97602039
Gorgeous!
>>
>>97602894
I've not tried LA's totally awesome but I've heard about it, and seen it for sale at the dollar store. Good luck anon.
>>
>>97603714
Aw, she's crying and her mascara is getting messy. Looking good, keep going.
>>
I have counted, and I have 70 minis, a vehicle, 7 pieces of scratch built terrain and 17 other terrain pieces in my pile of shame / backlog.
This is going to last at least a year for me at this rate, so I shouldn't get anything new now...
>>
>>97602956
flat, but with a very defined 90deg angle
it's called shearing, scissors or a paper guillotine work by that principle too, tin/lead is very weak to shearing forces so you done even need a die, like you would for styrene sheets
>>
>>97603975
>so I shouldn't get anything new now...
yet you know you will
>>
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Moving on with this box now that my Skorpekhs are done. Quick WIP image of the Lokust Heavy Destroyers. Still gotta get some pink and red on the yellow
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And here's the Skorpekhs all done. At least until I get around to basing them.
>>
>>97603046
Based art. The arm looks a bit weak, must be a new kitbasher, I suspect.
>>
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Speaking of studs, rivets, screws, etc. You can also get a punching tool and then just use thin plasticard. Something like picrel. I have one and it's great, you can shit out dozens of rivets of all sizes in minutes.
>>
>>97603975
I counted mine and there are 85 unassembled minis (Infinity + single GW kit), 64 primed Infinity minis, 30 assembled but unprimed GW minis and literal wall of Bandai/Kotobukiya plastic model kits.

FOMO is a bitch.
>>
>>97604248
dont forget the old faithful
>>
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I havent finished a model in days

Starting to feel worn out
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>>97604308
grab a model or two and finish them early to give yourself a dopamine hit
>>
>>97604271
that's too big for marine-sized rivets
the tin sheet also gives you rounded edge rivets intead of flat ones with plasticard
>>
>>97604403
yeah tin sheet is great its like paper but malleable like metal
if i remember right it also colours your fingers and everything it touches something awful
and if i was a betting man i would vager there are around 100 youtube videos warning how toxic that stuff is to use and how you should a hazmat suit etc to handle it these days
>>
>>97604657
>if i remember right it also colours your fingers and everything it touches something awful
not in my experience
maybe if it's lead based instead of tin, wich would also mean it's actually toxic, like metal models with lead, nothing too concerning unless you lick your models
>>
>>97604877
>not licking your models
How else are you supposed to develop a taste for art?
>>
>>97604915
isn't drinking my paint water enough?
>>
Thank you bake san. I'm sorry I wasn't strong enough this morning to do it myself.
>>
New thread:

>>97605414
>>97605414
>>97605414



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