Work in Progress, "March Madness Begins!" Edition>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebinhttps://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD>WIP Tutorial Images Megahttps://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paintshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s>Paint thinning 102https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginnershttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM>Decal Like a Prohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c>How to Edge Highlighthttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk>How to use contrast style paintshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI>How to Paint with Tremorshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g>Airbrush Priming and Thinninghttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxEhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFghttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special wayhttps://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny>Previous Threads:>>97623555>>97605414>>97589522
how strong is greenstuff/miliput when it cures? I was thinking of re-posing my riptide's arms and I think i might need a little green stuff/milliput to gap fill, and I was wondering if it's strong enough for the hand and gun on a riptide?
>>97647898Miliput white is fairly sturdy, holds up to sanding but can be a little brittle on stuff that moves a lot like weapons or poles. Green stuff has a little more give to it, have you thought about maybe using sprue goo or pinning with a piece of paper clip?
Progress
>>97647898just use the 2 part epoxy this is literally the kind of thing it's for
Started painting the tonk. Very early wip. Also, no clue how to take pics of larger vehicles. Is this something you need composite photography to get all the parts focused?
>>97647829I fucking LOVE these OP collages please keep them up
>>97647997Either move your camera further away from the model or use a focus stacker
My daughter picked out one of these for my birthday because, quote >"Daddy needs a big robot."Now I have to build it and paint it.
>>97648155based, she has good taste
>>97647898Pin it if you're worried.
I won't be able to paint for a week unfortunately due to work, but I'm repainting the janky chimera Think I should take some extra passes at the lava
>>97648155>letting your daughter take out a second mortgage on your house to afford gw kit
>>97648155Will she also pick out the colors?
>>97648371She signed for it. Its her mortgage now.>>97648439If I did that it would be all red.
>>97648534Problem?
I have a basing question for you guys.I like the idea of making a diorama where you can pick the guys out of the scene and use them in the game.Naturally, there'll be a problem where every base has a little trench around it since the bases on wider on the bottom than on the top, which is fine. However, if I were to make these steps flush with the top of the base's edge, there'd be a pretty deep gap between it and the diorama.Should I be fine with that gap since it comes with the territory, or redo the steps on the base to make the gap as small as possible?
>>97648636I would make circles in the diorama that fit the outer-circumference of the base pretty tightly, and just have the base stick out a little ways (and match the base style to the diorama obviously).The unit will be on a little raised platform, but it will look fine as long as it is done cleanly because it will look intentional. It would still be recessed a little, like maybe 2 or 3 mm, but not flush with the surface. Just lean into the base as a design element you can't change, and make it look like you did it on purpose rather than having a big gap.
>>97648647Not what he's asking>>97648636keep the edge of the steps flush to the top of the base edge, the gap will look right, lots of people have done this sort of thing before for decades now.
>>97648656ngl, I honestly don't understand what he's asking. I'm having trouble picturing what he's actually saying beyond 'models that are normally on a diorama'. Maybe my reading comprehension is cooked.
I'm going to buy more coomer minis
>>97648676Nice. which ones?Not more goblins, I hope. We all know all the goblin ones.
>>97648647Not what I was asking about, but I like this idea and I think I'll use it, assuming I go through finding and cutting foam for a diorama base.>>97648656Noted. I'll stick with my first instinct to keep the steps flush with the upper edge.
I made this thing for myself, to have a visual example of my Citadel contrast paints. There's 32 here, plus the shade, Mortarian Grime, and a technical paint, Tesseract Glow.I also have a bunch of Army Painter Speedpaint and Vallejo Xpress colors. For those, I airbrushed their lids white (after priming) and brushed over them.I did this for fun, but also so I could actually compare certain colors. There's a LOT of browns across these ranges, and it can be tough to easily tell them apart without testing. And uh, sometimes I forget. Anyways, here are some takeaways for people who may or may not care:- If you haven't tried these style of paints, it's really worth it, especially for certain materials on models. They're amazing for leather and wood, they can save you a lot of time. If you're painting an army, you'll want to incorporate these.- I find myself kind of not liking the Vallejo Xpress stuff. When it works, it looks great and fine, but it has a bit of a blotchy flow, its quite gloss.- Army Painter Speedpaint is just as good as the rest, even better at times, like on smooth surfaces, and they have more colors to pick from.- Citadel Magmadroth Flame is the new best way to get an orange basecoat. It's very vivid, and covers in one layer over white.- Some Citadel colors are barely usable. Cygor Brown and Shyish Purple are both waaay too dark for general usage, they look black when not under bright light.- Snakebite Leather has a bit of a blotchy, grimy texture, which actually works for leather. It's a bit yellow, but it's perfect for all the rope bundles on my Kruleboyz models.- Stormfiend is an amazing everyday blue color, it's this great navy-ish blue shade, a bit dull, still a bit vibrant, perfect for clothing.- I undoubtedly wasted some money here. Warp Lightning and Ork Flesh are nearly identical.
>>97648636Agreed with gapmaxxing, the little gap will look fine, but a weird disruption of the base edge will be fuck ugly.
>>97648701Good and useful image, and based taste in kits, I wish the civilian kit was just a little larger scale though.
>>97648671If I weren't drinking I'd MSpaint an explanatory image.
It really do be like that
>>97648873none of these things have ever happened to me
>>97648636Maybe do what some forgeworld models do where there are terrain bits that slot around the base and remove the gap entirely. So you'd have a BIG hole on the display, but then you'd attach 2 separate pieces of material to either side of the base, and slot the whole assembly into the display.
>>97648907>THIS IS NOT A TOYcringe
>>97647829>someone puts your shit on the wall
I made a comment a few threads ago about how OP didn't like any of our pictures and now I feel like I've made OP feel like they need to put in more work to collage all the pics every thread.It was just a joke baker san, I wasn't really upset. Though I'm sure people appreciate it sometimes.
>>97647997These steps have just signed a $0 rent agreement in my head space.
Idk if I posted this here, but I finished my war wagon.
What can I do to make the navel look less weird?
>>97649444wipe off your camera lens and try again on your photo
>>97648684I'm not doing it soon, already got an order coming in two weeks and all that I wanted and could I already got in there. But I'm probably going to try to make and order my own sculpts.
>>97649468Is this better?
>>97649444Shade it with less saturated colors.
>>97649473it's sideways but thank you anon I can see the details nowto answer your question, maybe adjust the shape so it reads more as a navel and not as a weird red spot.
>>97649473>>97649481Yeah, that looks infected.
>>97649510>>97649515What is navel even look like?
>>97649516Look down.
>>97649516are you alien or somethingjust look down its somewhere around 20cm above your dick or are you missing that too
>>97649531>>97649530Oh i thought it was (.) or (I) but it was actually (-)
>>97649516look at >>>/s/ or >>>/ic/ for references
>>97649481>Shade it with less saturated colors.Like some kind of black brown?
>>97649535I don't see any red, because it's not infected.
>>97647997https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yXOsZVbclPII found this extremely in depth video on the subject. the whole channel is some boomer talking like he's on pbs. there's a bunch of good airbrush videos too.
>>97649473the shade should be more grayish not red. if you aren't sure what it should look like examine some wet t shirt videos for reference.
>>97649546I don't really know what way you're painting. If you're using just straight paint add some gray to it. If you're applying a wash or glaze then some kind of dark grey.
Kitbashing templar tabards on terminators. Seems to be working out. I cant be bothered to greenstuff the belts though, the skulls and bits will hide the gaps.
>>97649951>the beltscut a strip of plasticard, round the edges and glue it
>>97649473It is better but when standing the navel is usually not a round dot but has more of an uhh elongated shape? I don't know how to word that properly in English, I'm sorry, refer to picrel
>>97649957It would just be too much work, also I dont know where to buy plasticard, much less just for tiny bits that can be easily hidden. Perhaps I'll use it if I cant do otherwise for the other 4 termis.
>>97649296And I have yet to add the enamels, oils, and mud paste.>>97649640I'll check it out, thanks, anon.
>>97650023>I dont know where to buy plasticardany hobby shop really, arts and crafts or stationery shops too, online anywhereyou can also use old credit/hotel/prepaid/voucher cards, but those most likely will be too thick, but some of them delaminate
>>97649973Neuron activated!
So, I have this friend whos getting into mini painting but he's colorblind. Is there any tips for people like him?
knight !checker patterns are a bitch
>>97647829>>97625697And here's the intercessor sergeant kitbash finished as well>>97645558Thanks! I used some nail art beads, I got them in sizes from 0.4mm to 1mm, they cost like 7 eur on amazon and you get a load of themFor that specific trim on the shoulders of the Marshal I used the 0.4mm ones, while I used 0.8mm for the bonding studs on the pauldrons>>97647997Looking good man, is that a repulsor exe conversion?>>97649951Yeah the bits hide the gaps just fine. I know it won't happen but I wish we'd get sword brethren terminators in 11th ed so we won't be forced to slap on tabards ourselves or convert deathwing knights anymore
>>97650266That's great, I love knights, the checkers look fine
>>97650267>Looking good man, is that a repulsor exe conversion?The turret is from Repulsor, otherwise it's mostly Land Raider. Anyways, always love to see your Templars, BTanon!>>97650266Looks very cool.
>>97650248Concentrate on values, I guess? If the areas of light/dark-highlight/shadow look correct, then the hue (actual color) will probably turn out okay.
>>97650187
>>97650248Which type? Some forms only slightly affect one color, the worst make you see monochrome.
>>97650290I guess that is easy enough, but we sometimes shades and highlights in other colors for some effect. maybe I will just tell him to mix in dark grey/light grey into the main color for those.>>97650309He was calling ultramarines orange.
>>97650320I would say the thing to do is to paint the mini in black/white to establish value, then glaze color on to it. What they used to call 'grisaille' but has been bastardized into 'slapchop'. That way you maintain saturation of your colors; Mixing black/white into your main colors is going to make them look very dull/desaturated.
>>97650248>Is there any tips for people like him?Switch the labels on his paints.
>>97650248Get him into grimdark aesthetics like turnip or inq28 where he can paint all his stuff in greyscale and no one will question it
>>97650320>He was calling ultramarines orange.I don't think that exists. Either way, if it's bad he should just embrace the psychedelic colors and pick models that suit it.
Need some advice on drilling into metal models. I'm looking to bore out some eye sockets before re-sculpting faces - should I use a manual hobby drill or do I need to go electric? Would you recommend a vice?
>>97650449with hand rolling you have better control of the drill, metal models are really soft and easy to ruini finger roll with dremel myself i never bought the pin vise whatever its called
>>97650449Definitely manual vise, also make guiding hole with some needle or something first and start with small diameter.
He so cool
>>97650266Worth it though, that looks great
>>97650677>thousandth faggot in power armor wow so cool
>>97650267That's a great looking dude. Well done.
>>97649535>fortunate son.mp3
>>97650380>Either way, if it's bad he should just embrace the psychedelic colors and pick models that suit it.End up with the best god damned harlequin army ever.
>>97650774I really fucking hope we are getting some Catachans with the next ed.
>>97650745He's one of the best ever sculpted anon
>>97650791The store/anniversary ones are well received, can't see why they wouldn't want to do a small release of even just jungle fighters.
>>97650837He's still another boring faggot in power armor and his face makes him look like an actual retard.
Anyone has a copy of the Encyclopedia of Figures Modelling Techniques?
>>97650893What do you like to paint anon?
>>97650248https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3jEwylW_kcg
>>97650610>>97650639thanks
>>97650677He looks like some angry grandpa yelling at Primaris kids to get off his lawn.
Two tiny tiny psykers done. Old eldar models were SMALL.
>>97648701>Citadel Magmadroth Flame is the new best way to get an orange basecoat. It's very vivid, and covers in one layer over white.That looks really good. Vallejo GC Orange Fire pissed me the fuck off recently, the coverage was just awful.
>>97651089>Manlets of Asuryan
>>97648701have you used speedpaint medium? when using some of the army painter speedpaint, I found they were really opaque, especially the brown one. maybe i'm just putting too much paint down.
>>97650745I know that buying GW is the gayest way to enjoy the hobby, but this power armor faggot's name is Huron Blackheart.
>apply wash>walk away to let it dry>come back five minutes later>massive coffee staining drawing an outline around all the pristine crevices I directly applied the wash intothoughts of woodchipper intensifying
>>97651358Use oil washes, like any other serious person.
>>97648873Once upon a time one of the shitty greenstuff world dropper bottles got clogged so I squeezed it a bit too hard and the paint came out with the force of a hand grenade and got into my eyes.
I spent the last few days finishing all the details and bases I left for later and the effect is noticeable. This is the power of spreadsheets and preparing for a tournament in combination.
>>97651391Finished all of these bases and refined some details on these guys yesterday.
>>97651391lovely army anon
>>97651391i like youre army anonis wyvern really on that huge base these days i remember that model coming with 40mm square
>>97651409Thank you anon!>>97651423Appreciate it :) Yes, and I really like it since I have the metal version which tipped all the time on the old size.
>>97651358Just buy some mixing medium.>apply mixing medium 1:1 water all over. >apply washWick up any pooling. Easy peazy. No more confeefee stains.
Anyone gone through the trouble to hinge the front plate on a Space Marine Rhino or similar kit? I've seen it done a few times but I'm not sure where to put the pins
>>97651401>>97651391Beautiful army anon, thanks for sharing!>>97651089The bug-eyed one is super cute.>>97650267Great work as always, I really like how much character your guys have.>>97650266All that work definitely paid off, the checkers look super nice.>>97649299This model is really goofy but you did a good job on it!
>>97647829Had to do a double take on this pic, I saw an alternate reality version of a terminator that I did
Progress on my Bretonnians.Really happy with how the colors turned out and how much they pop.
>>97651940looks really nice
>got in the collageGiga based
>>97651961Thanks.
Would it be a good suggestion for anons to do a collage of their different projects to more easily identify anons ? >>97651530Welcome back yuru anon, kept this image just for you. (maybe you've already post it...)>>97647997Holy shit... Nightshift enjoyer ? >>97649299Kino.
>>97652065>Would it be a good suggestion for anons to do a collage of their different projects to more easily identify anons ? I've done it before. Hell I'm still not even done most of those projects from the last time. I only marginally care if people can identify me. I'm sure people keeping track could do it if they wanted to. But I think people still like to at least pretend there is some level of anonymity.A bunch of us still posted end of the year stuff of all the projects we finished that year which is kind of the same thing.
>>97652065I don't think that this thread need some sort of identification, it helps to be able to post your work as independent projects, even if some people will recognise you anyway (my anime cups give me away each times if they manage to get caught in frame).
Please help me with the name of this figure--damned if I can find it. I believe it is from Ral Partha and I remember it being called something like "Dark Lord" or "Chaos Champion" and being one of four similar figures with the same name labeled A, B, C, and D.
>>97652196I prefer nepgear to neptune tbqh
>>97652203Me too, in a way - Purple Heart persona is simply better than Neptune in every way.
>>97652065>Would it be a good suggestion for anons to do a collage of their different projects to more easily identify anons ?I don't think so, sorry. Namefaggotry is almost always detrimental to generals. We have a kinda nice balance here right now where a lot our regulars are recognizable anyway by what and how they paint, photo setups etc but we don't give them cringe nicknames like they do in /40kg/.
>>97652263>>97652196>>97652110All valids points, at least I know im dumb af, thats why I asked.
>>97652065>Holy shit... Nightshift enjoyer ?Yes! Haven't started with oils/enamels weathering yet.
>>97647997I only just realized that that's a land raider and it has a turretThat's not normal, is it?
>>97650023https://www.mcmaster.com/products/plastic/plastic-1~/easy-to-form-polystyrene-sheets-and-strips/
>>97652343The turret (and the lower glacis I guess?) is from Repulsor, they are nearly 1:1 in size. The rest of the non-land raider stuff on the land raider is either printed (the baggage), or plasticard (extra armor).
>>97651940>>97652058neat
>>97650023I recommend evergreen scale models for polystyrene stock.
>>97652200https://www.ralparthaeurope.co.uk/shop/ral-partha-fantasy-c-37/heroes-and-horrors-c-37_38/01041-wraiths-3-p-3415.html
>>97650267>nail art beadsHuh that a cool cross market. Was it 7euro for the whole range of sizes? A while back I bought a full range of “bearing balls” which I use all the time. But it was like 6 dollars per pack of 1000.
Just a cool guy
>>97652686Why he is so grainy?
>>97652822I can’t tell if anon messed up his prime job or if it’s just a noisy photo.
>>97652822>>97652838I over did it with the airbrush I think...gotta get my pressure and distance down
>>97647829Just finished up my B'rohg. He's in the OP collage :D Gave him a nice shiny gloss varnish to protect him during his life in the LGS. Some paint got scraped off his toenails from handling when people were peeping him at the shop. C'est la vie. Very happy with how he turned out overall, though I did miss a nostril (grrrrr, my inner perfectionist rages)
>>97652883
>>97652865after extensive testing I've found the biggest factor for acrylics is to make sure you actually wet the surface when you're airbrushing. if you're doing thin coats that dry instantly they will build up like this. You need a wet paint layer, but not thick enough (or thin enough paint) to start pooling in recesses).
>>97652883>>97652890That's not finished.
>>97652621Thank you very much!
>>97652865Time go get out the LA totally awesome. Put it in there for 24 hours, scrub gently with toothbrush and do that until you got the primer off. Should only take. Few sessions since you didn’t use rattle can primer.
Finished a sag
>>97650287>>97650748>>97651530Much appreciated bros>>97652670>Was it 7euro for the whole range of sizes?Yeah you get a box like pic rel, I think mine had fewer but smaller sizes but you get the idea
>>97653282he cute
>just finished 60 skeletons>hmmmm what should I do next>finish my terrain project? Nah.>base the fully painted dragon languishing in my drawer? Nah.>finish the custom flags for my armies? Nah.>finisb striping the goblins and did a shoddy job on? Nah.>play games with friends? Nah.>start more skeletons? Yes.Why am I like this?
>>97653498I feel you.Do we really need 100 skeletons?We don't, but we do.
>>97653498can we see the skeletons?
>>97653687I've only got old photos of unfinished skeletons atm.When I get back from my graveyard shift (heh) I'll take pictures of more recent ones.
Wrapped up my current special lad here. He’ll get a proper photoshoot in the lightbox eventually, but I’m quite happy with how he turned out (considering I just use painting as an excuse to watch infamously bad movies on Tubi). I wanted to match the box art as a challenge and I feel like it was worth the effort.It is funny how, over the past year, I’ve really moved towards color vibrancy over tattered, grimdark aesthetics. About three years into the hobby now and finding my ‘happy place’ within it.
First time doing the cel shading look. Think I'm gonna call it here, it's been a pain.
>>97653282That's really well done, exceptional gradient on the checkerboard
>>97653990that technique looks like a nightmare to finish. holy god. but it came out really well
>>97654000Nice digits.Also, nta but people would do well to practice getting coats blocks of full opacity like that.
I painted 3 more bois in my search for the right mix. Im finding a mix of about 50/50 dark purple and bright red is getting about there. Maybe closer to 60 on the red. Its leading to a rich wine or plum color it looks a bit better IRL. So I think im about settling on the color. Im gonna finish the guardian squad to get the practice done and I will have my first unit of 40k models painted. But man I have alot to learn. Like I need to watch some actual vids on proper highlighting cause this just aint workin. The far left one I think I was getting the idea better but man was it not correct fully. Interestingly im kinda making almost camo spots of sorts which is leading to its own little depth to it. I actually like the gold helms with the purple IRL and from standing up its very striking and looks nice. Painting eyes and micro details is fucking HARD. These fucking old guardians are so tiny. Finally any advice on what color to paint my guns and when I have them swords/axes?
My uni has a molecular biology lab and they told me I could take as many empty pipette tip boxes as I want. The outer box could be used to make square bunkers and such but any ideas of what the tip rack (colored parts in picrel) could be used for? The only thing that comes to mind is a stick holder for airbrushing, I can't think of any terrain piece I could use them for.
>>97654389holders for artillery shells? cut them up into 3x3 boxes and paint them like wood. best i could come up with. or just grating for an industrial setting
>>97653009It looks fine>>97653990Fantastic shade job, looks almost like a draw over from that angle. Kudos.
Not entirely sure whether I should leave the base as is, go to a full green base to match a lot of other 2e stuff, or glue static grass on this finish to match my 2e ork stuff, but feel like I am just about ready to call this done.
>>97654591Posted a wip image like a fool, here is the finished image.
>>97654596And to keep the /wip/ going, here is the next set of models for the force.
Quick pic of one of my Lokhust Heavy Destroyers. Wasn't really satisfied with how flat the large panels looked so I went back at it with a dry brush and I stippled in some mottled, weathered texture. I also decided to add a gradient to the inlay on th side to give it better color variation. I have to say I definitely like this direction more than the old look.
>>97654715Nice shade fade with the purple orange, very comfy mini
>>97654715What the other anon said. The gradient is very nice.
Finally getting somewhere on this prop divine axe rhitta I posted about a month or so ago. Every time I think making full sized props would be fun, I end up wanting to rip my hair out and just go back to miniatures. The amount of prep is awful.
>>97654821>NESpretty based
>>97654821so it broke in half as was prophesized
>>97654821Honestly i'd rather work on full sized props than clean mold lines on minis.
>>97654826The whole thing put together is like 6' long. Im not going to try to paint the whole thing at once. Hopefully just touch ups after I get everything glued. I still have to tape and do silver on the blade. Also gold and silver rub n buff for depth. I just gave up on sanding.
very early wip
Well, I'm gonna call these done for now. Gonna start back on the Ophidians tomorrow.
Hey if Santa is checking out these threads can you please check your email?
Spaceships almost finished, just gotta nut up and do engine glow on all the big ones. I might go back and add tiny windows in yellow or something eventually but I can't be bothered now
>>97651367Enamel washes*Oil will still stain.
>>97655432It's the same thing, anon.
>>97655438No? Once a oil paint cures, it will never dissolve. An enamel, on the other hand, will reactivate 300 years from now if you expose it to one of its many solvents.Of course, oil washes work because they take a long time to cure, but tiny amounts will cure quickly and cause staining.
>>97655470Lol wat.No, enamels won't reactivate once cured. And no, oils won't stain if you use them with gloss varnish.
>>97655352very nice i like the engine glow
man i really hope this thing turns out goofy but kinda cool and not just plain goofy
>>97655470Are you confusing enamels with lacquers? Lacquers have the reactivating properties you describe, enamels don't do that.
>>97655590The model is low detail and chunky, I doubt it'll ever look cool.
>>97655506>>97655596>enamels don't do thatBro women use acetone and MEK to remove their nail polish all the time. Dried lacquers do reactivate after some exposure, but enamels would be long gone by the time that starts to happen. Thats why modellers slap enamel washes on top of lacquer without varnish and it works fine. Obviously if you varnish everything gets easier and the staining question we mentioned is moot, but it is one extra step. And enamel isnt soluble with regular thinner, which is why you can do shit like enamel->lacquer->enamel with mr. surface finisher.
>>97653904Very clean job anon>It is funny how, over the past year, I’ve really moved towards color vibrancy over tattered, grimdark aestheticsI personally like to push colors (the few I get to paint on black templars, that is) and contrasts even while painting what I consider a grimdark style. Then again my idea of grimdark isn't just streaking grime and rust like it seems to be the mainstream concept of it nowadays, but rather a pretense of realism, thus adding damage and weathering but still preserving colours and their vibrancy
>>97652865what mini is the little devil guy? hes super cute
>>97655821Look up smashbash, miscast, and totallynotpanicking>>97652932Yeah i use my primer out the bottle...i think my pressure is a little too high and i spray from a little too far away. Its also still incredibly dry here so that doesnt help>>97653212Never >:)
>>97655852Does he only move in L shapes?
>>97655884*ba dum tssh*
>>97655897This does not spark joy.
>>97655911Good, this type of humour sparks wince only, it is only joyful for the one making the joke, as is the point
>>97652865>>97652932>>97655878>Its also still incredibly dry here so that doesnt helpThis is the biggest factor. When you spray paint through the air and it is warm and or dry, it will create a fuzzy or dusty look as the paint collides with itself and dries in mid air. Painting in too humid an environment, or too cold, will have other affects on it as well. A humidifier in your space might help depending on what climate you live in. I live in florida, so we swim through our air. As long as I don't do it when it's particularly hot things come out okay.
>>97656049You are a bitter man. What is your tragic backstory?
Here's a chaos dragon and rider I'm working on. I think I want to highlight the black scales with some gray, then it might be time for an oil wash.
>>97655878thanks anon, ended up ordering 6 miscast minis, really like the look of them
graphic design is my passion
Fuck!Adam Savage is mogging us.
A little morning Quar work, armbands still need like ten more coats of yellow and I might add some patterns to their skin but other than that and the bases that's three more done
>>97656743photography sure isn't
>>97655878>Yeah i use my primer out the bottle...i think my pressure is a little too high and i spray from a little too far away. Its also still incredibly dry here so that doesnt helpA drop of slow improver may help with that, I also live in a dry climate and started getting much smoother results when I started using it.
Hmmm, I might have gone a bit mad with etsy... ive got like 50 different pinups (including kingdom death pinups i already have) to paint now and that's not counting my huge backlog of aos, Trench crusade and others....
>>97656935Sounds like a personal problem.
>>97656935Post some of the best ones you found (that aren't super common). I want more pinups.
>>97656945Well I think most I got are common for pinups asits mostly artisan guild stuff. When most have arrived ill take a picture of my collection.Pic related is my UNFINISHED bunny girls, I need to clean the faces/eyes and smooth out the colours on outfit + skin
>>97656917Flow improver, I am not a clever man.
>>97656796>a profession model maker with decades of career experience has painted a model>I feel bad about this for some reason???comparison is the thief of joy
>>97656977THICKAnd I'm not talking about Pyra and Mythra
Out of town all month, got a copy of blood bowl 3rd edition to work on
>>97656977They're cute.I have a problem where I buy coomer models, but only paint like 1 and then I get bored of all of the ones that have and need to buy new ones that scratch the itch. I get bored of things far too quickly.
adam savage calls it clear coat. don't you want to be like adam savage?
damn, really desperate this thread aren't you
>>97655590Well I'd say you're off to a good start, anon. These old models really only come together once you've got all the base coats down. Don't lose hope! Once those claws, bracers, horns, and whatever is still white on his upper-back are painted, it'll look a lot nicer.
Rough draft for my teleporter homer. Maybe I'll remove the light on top of the skulls, or do something cleaner than this.Still not sure how to paint him. He will be in the Black Templars.
finished them today
>>97657655its nice but im not completely sold on those things supporting the skulls, could be funny if his whole job was to balance the skulls all the time>>97657748gorgeous metallics as always and bonework is top notch toowhat are these for
>>97657748Neat. What's your method to painting skeletons?
>>97657855thx>what are these forfor fun mostly, because they are cool as fuckmaybe frostgrave if i ever convince someone to play
>>97657969the dog and snake where an experiment, i airbrushed bleached bone and did a brown oil wash, then painted highlights and details on top with more bleached bone and ivory, some blacklining with a dark brown ink and some very light touches of pallid bone here and therethe skeleton is what i usually do, it's similar but i start on a charred brown base and layer up to bleached bone (by mixing it with the base color) and then detail as abovepicrel is a bad photo of the dog after slathering the oil wash and post cleaining most of it
ok wait I watched this crab video and adam uses vallejo wash fx and slops it on with a brush and then immediately wipes it off with alcohol on a rag. is the fx wash different from the regular one? I thought you could only do that with oil washes. why don't people do this with other acrylic washes? or have I been misunderstanding how acrylic washes are supposed to be used all this time?
>>97657216it kinda looks like you were going for a slapchop but used the wrong paints and laid them on so thick it doesnt really matter anyway
>>97658034>I thought you could only do that with oil washes. why don't people do this with other acrylic washes?having just started trying out oil washes i have always asked the same question, you can even skip the alcohol and just add retarder to the acrylic paint and flow improver and i'm pretty sure the effect would be similari think the point is that oil washes don't coffee stain as easily tho
>>97658109>i think the point is that oil washes don't coffee stain as easily thoThat and you can let it sit for a little while and if you want to take more off you easily can, or can add more in recesses without the coffee staining.
>>97658109The point of oil washes is that you can remove them easily without using a solvent that would effect underlying paint and they have a very long working time.
I got a bit of a weird question about basing and adding tufts and/or static grass?Is it better to base before or after painting and varnishing the miniature? Or does it not matter?
>>97655629>>97657610there is not much to work with true dati was sure little violet drybrush would be enough to bring those rounded crab claws to life but looks like i have to use my imagination
>>97658201>>97658184why don't people wipe their vallejo washes like in the crab video though?
>>97658538You can if they're watery enough, but you don't have time to go in and do it neatly. Proacryl sells a product called Newsh that is supposed to kind of mimic this and has longer working time, but even with that you only have a couple of minutes (according to proacryl, I've never used it). In the crab video it's alcohol paints, and you can reactivate them with alcohol without it impacting the layers below the clear coat, you can't do that with water based acrylics (well you can with solvents, or even alcohol, but they turn into a gooey mess and don't repolymerize properly).Oil, alcohol, and enamel you can all re-activate for quite a long time after drying.
I finally got around to finishing my first chaos space marines squad for the little 2e 40k project I've been working on. The ultra-glossy glossy black doesn't look very nice in pictures, but I like it. There's something lovely about these specific models, especially the plastic 2-pose ones. They're goofy, but that's why they're good. Hopefully I'll be able to find some of the metal 2e chaos space marines with special weapons soon.
>>97658574I don't get what you mean. the wash was vallejo fx and it was over a clear coat so the alcohol inks under it didn't matter. why don't people use the same steps for their space marines instead of letting it dry and stain the armor panels?
finished a few berzerkers
BRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAP
>>97658633Is that a fucking GUN on a "Khorne" worshiper?! KILL THE IMPOSTOR! DEATH TO THE FALSE BERSERKER!
>>97658772Khorne's favorite little guy uses a plasma pistol pretty frequently
>>97658617i like your rare retro marines anon and while i might not agree you on the gloss it makes the old school horns pop out really nice
About to start final touches on him. But I'm not sure how to attach him to the base. It's meant for the old Clan War game but I painted him because I'm in a L5R game.
>>97658617I agree that gloss is underrated, I just wish it photographed better. IMO it's better with airbrushed basecoats so the finish is as flat as possible. The horns and pauldrons on yours look good though.
>>97650248>>97650320>He was calling ultramarines orange.>>97650380Blue and orange have literally nothing in common in terms of hue (unlike blue and purple or green and yellow, which get confused by red-green colorblind), but identical chroma. You friend may be B&W colorblind, in which case it's over, unless he uses the Zorn palette or something.
I watched the crab video you're all glazing.It looks good, but it's more of a gunpla style paint job than the kind of miniature painting we do. It wouldn't really work or look as good directly translated to anything smaller than 1:12 scale
>>97658758cutegreat colors on the skin and front panel
As you get older do you get cramps in your hands painting?
I've been using AK paint pens a lot because I like being able to whip them out during my lunch break and paint some of my troopers
>>97659002False believer. Khorne's favourites are Bloodthirsters, who exclusively use melee.
>>97659318That guy can make people bleed from range while he closes in, just making the most efficient use of his time.
>>97659339Khorne isn't the god of efficiency.>plasma>bleeding from a cauterized woundYou're an idiot.
>>97658633>>97659399>bolt pistolMicrocephaly addled norwood 6.
>>97659318He likes Kharn better than any of his daemonsHe likes Tuska better than any of his daemons too
>>97659406They're talking about Kharn, the Betrayer retard-kun
>>97659430I was talking about the model with a bolt pistol, just shave your disgusting bald head already and get it over with.
go back to your containment thread
>>97659442>retard jumps into conversation>doesn't read chain>b-buh picture...fuck off retard
>>97659006>>97659080Thank you very much, anons. I've been somewhat overreliant on glossiness to make my chaos undivided models look nice, but I really like how it looks. I'll have to give airbrushing a try, I've only ever worked with regular brushes. Anyway, I'm looking forward to painting more 40k chaos models from the '80s and '90s. They're just wonderful. Ideally, I won't be painting glossy black for much longer, though. Glossy pinks, greens, blues, and reds are in my future.
>>97659466I'm sorry you got embarrassed.
>>97650677Eh, still looks too cartoon-y.Much preferred old model. It was less clean and crisp and heavy with the armour, but imo that made it better.
Getting back into the swing of things, have a thicc boy in the fridge.
>>97659816Why he in fridge?
It's late, and the lighting is better there than anywhere else in my house, currently.
understandable
>>97659816That's a big lad. Have you considered maybe going extra autistic on a similar size guy and doing the scale model thing with fake flame cuts on armour edges, to give the sense of larger scale?
>>97659835Fridge lighting used to be a meme, it's unironically a good lightbox.
>>97659835it means your minis are coolsoft white diffuse lighting and a low effort setup
>>97658758Lovely.
Fucking how? I thought this was airbrushed at first but it's razor fine glaze highlights.>you just answered your own questionIt just doesn't seem physically possible, I know there's a video but it's really "paint the rest of the owl".
>>97660096A little bit of paint thinned with glaze medium, you can get really thin glazes without the paint breaking. Then just many, many layers left to dry in between, since the glaze medium really slows drying time.
>>97660096Not to shill this guy's channel, but this is a good video on this technique.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n86RgwyMj3k
>>97660118I don't think anybody cares if you shill good painting techniques.
>>97654914tonight's progress: scuffed highlights and unfavorable lighting
>>97660118Right, but how does he stop the paint from drying in his brush if it's so barely loaded?
>>97660245The magic of natural hair brushes.
>>97660096anyone got knowledge on how to get a white this smooth?
>>97660284The secret is that there is almost no white on this model.
>>97660250How does that help with drying paint?
>>97660299Natural hairs actually get wet, synthetic plastic bristles just get liquid on their surface.That's kind of simplifying, it's because of the physical surface and structure of the hairs, not just how liquid sits on them, but synthetic brushes don't actually hold moisture very well. It's the same reason synthetic clothing dries instantly while cotton absorbs 10x it's weight in water.And not every natural fiber is like that, but the ones you find in water color brushes are.
>>97660317Thank you anon. Learned something cool today.
>>97660317this. I have a 3 dollar synthetic "acrylic" brush from an art supply shop and an expensive kolinsky sable, and it's like night and day. neither paint nor water stick to the shitty brush at all, and it's always a struggle trying to keep the paint from being too dry or too wet, while blending with actual sable is so much easier it's unreal. I bought the synthetic brush back in January and the tip is already pretty badly hooked. Real sable ends up saving money in the long run because even if you pay ten times as much, it will last for many years if well cared for.
>>97660377Yeah, all my sable brushes are still good after like years of use, my synthetics all are useless after barely any time at all, and also always fuck with my paint thinning, I have the same experience with blending and dry/wet that you describe.I think you can in theory be super delicate with them and prevent the hooking , but I don't really bother anymore. At this point it's better to just use my older sable brushes as my 'rough' brushes because they just work better even if you don't want them just for the tip.
>>97660382there are some channels that have looked at synthetic brushes under a microscope to see why they hook and I don't know how much it can be prevented. The plastic splits and frays in a kind of nasty way with no reasonable way to repair it.
>>97657655Redid the totem. The homer "wings" just dont fit, and the lightbulb is not that fitting>>97657855Imperium magic is specialised in stacking skulls. It isfunny to think the totem does absolutely nothing and he has to balance the skulls for shit and giggles.
>>97660467much better
>>97660467did you base that totem on that one mossa pic?
>>97660482Who's mossa?I just think its cool to have a stick made of stacked skulls.
>>97660317Is kolinsky the best for mini/figure painting? What about squirrel, wolf, horse some shit?
>>97660096You can definitely airbrush something like this too.
>>97660521Ah it struck me as familiar
have you ever felt like you hit your peak as a painter or are you constantly trying new thingsalso has new techology like contrast paints or the widespread popularity of airbrushing affected your process in some meaningful way
>>97660570Ah lol sweet.I'm mostly surprised GW never thought of it.
>>97660580I keep trying new things as long as it doesn't make me spend too much money, for example I did experiment with sponge painting but I definitely won't buy whole new set of inks.But I constantly feel like I'm not advancing significantly or fast enough. I know it's not a race and maybe I'm too harsh on myself but each time I paint a mini or a model, I have constant stream of thoughts in style of "this is not good enough, this is not perfect yet".
I have a dilemma and I would like to ask you for advice on how to solve it.I still couldn't find explanation for my problem with internal (as in - inside the nozzle) paint drying in my airbrush. It is so called "Chinese" model but overall with good reputation - this particular one uses so called "floating" nozzle and teflone seals so should be good. But I cannot figure out if this is the problem with airbrush itself, setup, technique (like keeping air pressed almost all the time while moving trigger in pulse movement) or paints - even if I tested both AK and Vallejo, variants with thinner, flow improver and retarder in different combinations. Turns out that this year I will get rather huge tax return so I can effortlessly buy H&S airbrush instead, probably Evolution 2024 (well, I can actually effortlessly buy it anyway but I always treat tax return money as "to spend on pleasures", so to speak). But I would absolutely hate to discover that the problem was elsewhere as it would mean essentially wasting money on buying tool I already have (concept similar to buying some very expensive natural hair premium brush when your current work actually works). What should I do?
>>97660580I do try to new stuff whenever I can but at this point I'm honestly pretty happy with my skill level. I wanted to reach the standard I've seen in old GW photos and I think I'm close enough.
>>97660580I alway try out new things. But right now I aim to surpass myself on scripture style drawings. I have shields that I want to do better than pic rels.As for new technologies, I use contrast for shades now because other washes from any companies are a bit glossy or disappointing.Contrast paints needs more attention and cant just be slapped like normal washes, but its a great wash nonetheless.I also use microns for some of pic rels, but its not that new a technology.
>>97660580Im a shit painter and I'd like to think that I will get better
>>97660580As long as I don't paint like elminiaturista I will always try to improve.
>>97660580I still paint with thick paint. I keep trying to paint while thining them but the mini always seem to end in failure. Though as long as my minis look presentable on a tabletop board im happy
>>97660580This might actually be a good moment to ask because I feel like I haven't made any noticeable improvements for a while. just refining what I already know. What do you guys think would be a good thing to attempt now judging by these minis? NMM, more complicated OSL or maybe something else entirely?
I was handed some leftover 3D prints by a friend, cured and all, although they still have supports. Is it just as easy as peeling them off by hand?
>>97661485that is pretty good question, what do you do after you have reached the top of your ability and to be honest the top oveallin the spirit of /wip/ i feel like i would have to say something insightful but ive got nothing, maybe the nmm would be a new challenge
>>97661485You seem pretty good at clean painting, have you tried doing something grungy with heavy weathering?
>>97661557Only small chipping and stuff like grime strains on vehicles. Thing is I really like this clean look that's why I stick to it most of the time. I do have 2 vehicles in my backlog that I could try this on, thanks for the suggestion anon
>>97661636I don't think you need to to just one or the other. You can probably make the clean look pop even more with just a few accenting scratches and a some dust in the recesses, making them look really ancient. Maybe even some deep cracks that lets the warp energies underneath shine through.Other than that, you could try texturing the robes and armor with subtle runes in a darker shade of the same color.
>>97660580I know I haven't peaked but I also don't try new things very often unless I'm working on a project model or trying out a new color scheme.More frustratingly I tend look back on older project models and tend to think about how I'd like to do them differently now that I have different ideas or am slightly more capable.
>>97660580I'm a pretty sloppy painter, so that likely won't happen for a while. I do experiment a lot and just go with it though.I started out using contrast paints a lot to get quick results, but quickly got out of that beginner trap and switched to normal layering and now I use them as a final coat to pull the shades together and give them richer contrast (duh). Yriel Yellow over Averland Sunset with a final coat of Imperial Fist Contrast gives you a really nice saturated yellow. Imperial Fist looks great over greens as well.
I hate painting
>>97661537Hot water bath, near boiling even. curing them before removing supports is stupid, makes them brittle, probably why they were handed off.try and nick supports off one by one with hobby knife in addition to hot water, don't peel method when theyre cured.
>>97661485What about painting unfamiliar textures? Like models that are mostly wood, or fur.
Lets talk rust, verdigris, tarnished metals.Pic rel is my attempt to have old, oxydised bronze. Is it good? Should I add more? If so, how? Any techniqes to do proper verdigris?For this one I used vallejo brazen copper, washed with biel tan green, then have Briar Queen Chill contrast paint for the verdigris.
>>97661885I think it looks pretty good. The bronze looks fantastic.It's hard to beat Dirty Down, though. It looks so amazing, it almost feels like cheating.
>>97661885I'm no expert but I feel like your verdigris feels too white to me
>>97661915fucking phoneposting, well you get the idea
>>97661911>Looked up Dirty Down verdigrisHoly shit. I dont think my city's LGS has them, unfortunately.
>>97661925Yeah I get you. I need to add more temple guard green I think or something like that. I just dont know how verdigris works, do they settle on the recesses or the flat areas? Do they do stains, or cover their surfaces? Rust is so much easier to manage.
Has anyone tried using pistachio shells to represent half-buried weathered rock?
>>97661537if they were cured with the supports attached you'll need clippers to remove them and scarring is likely to occur. Cured supports will be very hard but brittle
>>97662084>clippersNot on resin.
>>97662055They all have the same shape, that would look strange I think. More like giant clam shells or something.
>>97660580That's why I started to experiment with oil washes, trying new things out. That became painting with oil paints on top of acrylic base coats, finally to painting with the oils over just primer or a zenithal. Turns out I really enjoy the process and have a lot of fun doing it.
>>97660781Before you get a new airbrush try using flow improver mixed in with your thinner. I've been using Vince's mix of 80:20 thinner to flow improver and it almost completely eliminated the clogs and dry tip issues I was having. A couple drops in the cup before you put paint in keeps paint from getting right up next to your gaskets and drying. Could also try a little bit of needle juice/light machine oil/sewing machine oil on your needle after cleaning.
>>97660580I'm still pretty new so I haven't really settled into a particular style or anything. I tried using oil filters for the first time a couple months ago and enjoyed that, it's such a cool look. Just got my first little bottle of dried pigment and I'm excited to put that to use. It's a big world.
>>97662251I tried pure thinner, thinner with flow improver in 50-50, 70-30 and 30-70 proportions and above + retarder. It would only make internal drying occuring later but still rather quickly.
>>97662267Hm, do you have any air leaks? Could be a small air leak between parts letting air in drying the paint? As you said it happens with different brands of paint as well as the thinner/flow improver mixes, so you could probably rule them out as the culprit. Does the paint dry internally at the beginning so you need to empty mixed paint from the cup, or does it tend to clog at the end of the paint in the cup?
>>97660580>hit your peak as a painter or are you constantly trying new thingsThis is an interesting dichotomy because trying new things is usually a distraction to me. Trying to slapchop or grimdark or all that bullshit is just time spent receiving subpar results and not learning. I am guilty of that so I am nowhere near my peak.Real miniature painting is about layering, washing, glazing, and blending. If it sounds snobbish, so be it, but look at any paint job that makes you say "wow" and that's how it's made.However, I would classify airbrushing as layering or glazing, and sponge weathering as layering. They still follow the fundamental rules, they do it in a different way. I love my airbrush, but it is for basecoating and some volumetric lighting, not anything more precise.
>>97662303It tends to dry within first few minutes, long before I empty the cup. It doesn't even dry on the tip itself, just inside the nozzle, as evidenced by rubbery layer of dried paint exactly where nozzle is located.
>>97662238what makes oil paints so good?
>>97660535Squirrel is way too soft, horse is coarse (sorry), I actually don't know about wolf, a quick research says "maybe".There are also cheaper sables like red sable but it isn't as springy.>>97662327NTA but it's self-levelling in a way that's impossible for acrylic, and it takes long to dry, so it makes blending stupidly easy.Oil washes are another thing, they tend to look better than acrylic washes because you wipe it off with a q-tip so there's no staining.Oils are messy, slow, and less nontoxic than hobby acrylics. Those are the downsides.
>>97662324Yeah, I'd lean towards an air leak somewhere that is drying out the paint internally. If it isn't a gasket it could be a damaged connection or some other kind of damage. At that point you could get another cheap airbrush for cheaper than you'd be getting replacement parts to see if you can fix it, something like the master g233 is about $40 and a basic workhorse.
>>97661885I spent way too long trying to find the perfect verdigris recipe and this guy's videos are, in my opinion, the best, even if you stop at the acrylic stage: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eHCS_HOa5DoCopper (including bronze) progresses through stages of corrosion, like copper oxide (red brown), cupric sulfide (dark brown), copper sulfate (blue green) and copper chloride (light blue green). Each should be smaller than the previous, and the actual verdigris should be random and ideally runny like streaking grime.You're basically there, your first try is a hell of a lot better than my first try.
>>97662378I live in Europe and don't even see this "g233" anywhere. I could buy and replace nozzle and needle but I have a feeling that it would only mean pumping up costs.After initial enthusiasm, airbrush so far start to cause me more and more trouble, effort and disappointment.
>>97662427Thank YOU anon, this is gold. Will to this tomorrow when there is more sunlight.
>>97662327Personal preference mostly.Pros:Long work time, I have a bad back and need to stop and lay on the floor for a while when the spasms start. I can put the model down and come back to it in 20 or 30 minutes and the paint will still be workable.Super easy blending, you put the colors next to each other or on top of each other then gently tap with a soft dry brush (an old sable is perfect for this) and the layers will blend together easily. What would take me five or six layers of acrylic glazes can be done in a couple minutes with oil.Painting lighter colors is a lot easier since light colors tend to be opaque, especially a soft white like zinc white. Titanium white can still be chalky and not blend well, but you only really use it for the brightest highlights. If I don't like something I can gently wipe away a small area with a piece of makeup sponge, or wipe it completely clean and start over.If I make a mistake I can usually just blend it out with the blending brush and start over rather than having to redo base coats.Some cons though:Longer dry time, different colors will dry differently. Opaques can be dry in a day or so, transparents can take three or four days, some colors like alizarin crimson can take a week or more.Not all colors will behave the same way, so there is a learning curve.You can only put so many layers of paint on top of each other before you start to run into issues of them getting muddy and turning to brown grey, so you need to have a certain approach.Oil paints have their ugly phase right from the get go, takes longer to start looking decent so you need to trust the process. Sometimes that means I don't find out something doesn't work until 70% done.
>>97662451Airbrushing has a learning curve and taking care of it is a bit of a chore. They're very useful though.
>>97661544Yeah nmm is the first thing that came to mind. I'll probably try it next time I'm painting a mini that's not part of a project that already uses metallics.>>97661683I guess I should've posted an example of weathering I did before. Pushing it further is definitely a good idea. I love how this anon >>97647997 does it, guess I should start by watching a couple nightshift videos.>>97661808I paint stuff other than marines too. To be fair they're still mostly GW sculpts, I should definitely try something completely different.
>>97662522>watching a couple nightshift videos.Nightshift is a goat, his Sicaran vid is an absolute goldmine of techniques to try out. Both with construction, and painting. And it's on GW kit.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IwI80Bv9BGk
>>97662559Also forgot, https://www.youtube.com/@coldemonspl/videos is awesome. Fantastic weathering stuff for armor, in a bit more traditional scale model way.
i finished the clumpy piecewas pretty refreshing to paint something big and silly for a changewhat do you think
>>97660781breh you've been told multiple times that your cheap shit is leaking. it's time to bite the bullet and buy a better one.
>>97661485your painting looks gud enuff so you should try working more on modelling and converting
>>97662514You use alizarin crimson? Have you had any problems with fading? Or is it a hue?
>>97662644Honestly, I've tried to make it work and just do not like it lol. It is a fully transparent paint that is really strong, it doesn't play well with blending. When I've tried to mix or blend with it, it tends to overpower most other paints so everything just looks red. Other strong transparents like indigo or dioxizine purple don't have the same problem, so I guessed it was just a quirk to the crimson. I've gotten much better mileage out of naphthalol red which mixes and blends much nicer.
>>97662311>Real miniature painting is about layering, washing, glazing, and blending.this kind of close mindedness is just a mental wall that will eventually stop you from improving.
>>97662579i like it.but damn do i wish that model had half an udder instead of one tit.
>>97662579I think you should redo the purple highlights on the claws.>>97662709Seek help.
>>97662677The artfags I've seen using genuine alizarin also tend to use cadmium and cobalt so the tinting works out. I don't use any of those but tinting strengths are a pain (phthalo blue and carbon black are the worst offenders IMO), usually it amounts to using twice as much yellow as I "should".Golden has a recipe for a replacement for PR206, itself a replacement for alizarin, which is 1:1 quinacridone magenta and transparent red oxide, with just a hint of phthalo green to mute it. Might be useful if you need a glazing red, idk.
>>97663142Good looking out, thanks for the recommendation. Yeah I've been real hesitant to buy real cad or cobalt paints, I've already had some issues with heavy metal exposure from an old job so not looking to get anymore lol.
>>97662709thank you anon luckily daemonettes have plenty of milkers to spare>>97662797which one
Having the classic problem of the rhino hull not fitting together. I already clipped off the tabs on the bottom plate and sanded away the tab on the inside to try to get it to work, but something's still not fitting flushAny tricks for figuring out what's the issue? Otherwise I'll just have to keep sanding until it works
>>97663739put something on there, maybe paint to see where it's rubbing too hard?
>Stand and deliverPicked up a bunch of plastic kits back in January. When I first got back into this hobby 5 or 6 years back most of the things I found interesting didn't have plastic kits, given it had been some time and there were quite a wide variety of offerings i was interested in I thought I'd give it a whirl.I ended up with a bunch of Wargames Atlantic stuff. I'm sure most of you know about the company, the /wip/ crowd seems to stretch their legs and have a bit more of an open mind when it comes to sourcing, I have found. This guy here is from their Guards kit. They made it in partnership with a company called Grey For Now Games for a game they released last year. Guards of Traitors toll. You play as guards in a fantasy medieval town, and you do guard stuff. Or so I imagine, I haven't played and don't own the ruleset. Sounded cool though. There is a companion villagers kit as well that is pretty robust. Both are multi pose, or whatever you guys call it.The kit itself is pretty good, mordheim guys would probably appreciate some of the stuff. They scale a little small next to GW stuff though. I'm using them as bandit types. I have found the posing to look pretty natural all around, and that was one of the main things I disliked about a lot of the plastic kits I had worked with. You could only get them looking so dynamic. And often I found if the attempted posing was too dramatic and extreme, the centred body made it look stilted.However I have been happy with these guys. I've done up some very extensive halfling conversions/kitbashes I'll post a little later. Great kits. Check them out. Decent prices, good variety of stuff. They make some really cool imperial guard proxies for the guard factions that don't have official minis yet, or that are prohibitively expensive through forge world.It's a crime what forge world does with that resin.
Barely had any time to paint these past couple of days but I managed to make a little bit of progress
>>97661885I love tarnished and rusted metals.
>>97663739the old fashioned way would be to smoke it. hold one piece over a sooty flame until it's covered in soot, try to put it together, and then see where the soot is rubbed off. the more modern way would be to use a sharpie.
>>97661885My personal method was mix a bright teal color (I used something called Bright Aqua Green from liquitex) with a brown wash and slather it over for an overall dirty look. Then take the same bright teal color, mix it with a blue wash and apply it to the heavily corroded area and then finish it off by adding dots of the paint at the most corroded part.Pic related, right skeleton.>>97663858Oh hey, Oathmark skellies.
A little WIP update. The position for the chapter master isn't completely set in stone, and even if it was I'm painting him separate from the base. Tomorrow I'm double-checking the base and then priming it.Anons were absolutely right about having the cork steps be in line with the edge of the base's top, also.
>>97663847Skeletons are unironcaly thr coolest thing ever.
>>97664371>The position for the chapter master isn't completely set in stoneI wonder if you would be able to eliminate more of the gap between his boot and the termie. It doesn't look like he's putting his weight on it at the moment.
>>97664371>>97664595agree, my first thought was to cut the gem off its chest and then shave the cork at an angle down towards the edge so the front foot can sit more flat on the chest
>>97664720you could give the termie some torso pouches too, greenstuff bags you can flatted the foot into?
What do you think about water spraybooth?
>>97664807the waterfall ones?
>>97664810This shit, i heard it's the best spraybooth for airbrushing
>>97664831If it's your job sure, you can get a cheap one (if not a cardboard box) for occasional use.
>>97661485I'm late to the party so you might not see this.Your painting is phenomenal. Easily box art standard, very clean and professional. I think your lighting sources are a bit static, in most cases. It was nice to see you start to touch on OSL with this group, but I'd be fascinated to see you push further - such as trying to conjure the surrounding scenery by introducing more incidental lighting, which would bring your guys into the world some more.
>>97664831they're nice, but have more maintenance with the water, and are very expensive. Unless you're painting a lot, and with harsher chemicals than acrylics I don't really think they're worth the price, or the dealing with the water. Like other anon said, maybe if you were painting 8 hours a day.
>>97660198tonight's progress
>>97650677Nah I've seen kitbashes looking better, but enjoy anyways anon.
>>97651089No, the new models are big.
>>97661885I used to have real trouble making convincing looking verdigris until I found a video that suggested you kind of do it in reverse. Primer coat > deep blue-green colour > drybrush generously > verdigris paint or mint-green colour > thin generously and then apply over the whole area you've painted blue-green so it goes into the recesses > drybrush darkish bronze > drybrush a lighter bronze on the highest spots.There might be better techniques out there but the above really helped me feel satisfied with the outcomes finally.
>google images "verdigris">Look at the colors, use a color picker if necessary>paint those colors on the modelI don't understand why you guys struggle with this so much. Not just with Verdigris, but with everything. Just put the color where the color goes.
>>97665271>just draw the owl
>>97665291You say this but how many of you actually have a reference on screen while you're painting, or print out reference pictures to have on your desk while painting?
>>97663847Luv them, great stuff as always. >>97664371Look awesome.
>>97665465I don't know because I have a limited amount of paints and being partially colorblind I find the >look up paint color on a picture with a virtual tool>look up what bottled paint is the closest to that oneprocess a terrible pain in the assand then lets not even talk about mixing
>>97665271The process is not to copy verdigris, because then I would copy the exact colour and exact pattern that I see. The process is to be able to dynamically paint verdigris on any surface.Any idiot can copy a horse, but it takes skill to draw a horse in any pose you want.If I know the process of painting rust or verdigris, I know how to apply it on shields, armors, hammers, anything I want.Surely anyone who painted/drew anything know this already.
Eurgh, I really fucked the missile boxes away. Freehanding hazard stripes was just okay but I have no idea what the fuck I was doing with that attempt at a deep red metal
working on some 1870s cruise missiles
Could anyone recommend me a color (of any brand) that goes between Mechanicus Standard Grey and Dawnstone?
>>97665981Use Stahly's swatch. It's in OP mega.
Bought pic related last christmas 'cause it was on sale, but now that I'm actually assembling it, I'm regretting it. So many elves. Taking so, SO long to put together. Definitely bit off more than I can chew with this.
>>97666101>Definitely bit off more than I can chew with thisit's not like you have a deadline is it?take your time, veer off to another project for a while if you burn out, etcetcno one is watching you to see if you spent your money wisely, we already know we don't
>>97666116I'm not rushing or anything, I just can't work on it for more than a couple hours before getting sick of it. Been doing it for three days already and I'm not even half done. The desire to get these off my pile of shame is warring with my desire to actually enjoy my hobby time.Doesn't help that I'm realizing that I don't particularly like the designs. -_-
>>97666129hey man, if you don't like them, I'd happily take 'em off your hands ;)
>>97666174NTA but I wish I would have someone nearby or a family member I could give some of my gunpla kits from my backlog. I'm disgusted with myself over the size of my backlog, miniatures as well and how it grows rather than shrink as I buy stuff faster than I build/paint them - and how I can only restrict myself but cannot stop completely.
>>97666101>>97666129This is why I never buy those big boxes anymore. You instantly add like 5+ kits worth of minis to your backlog. So unless you're planning to paint it all right off the bat you're better off buying single kits over time in case you realize you don't actually want something from the box.
>>97666252Boxes are for sending people the extra stuff you don't want to anons for SS.
Working on freehanding the art on the left on a termi shield.I hope it will end up good. Shit's hard.
>>97649284But I *can* create these collages. If I have time, why shouldn't I?New thread:>>97666487>>97666487>>97666487
Did a bit of terrain for 40k, thoughts?
Just got started, how am I doing?The shit you find in random boxes. Opened a container of old Hot Wheels cars for my little boy and found this. Might keep it for another 20 years as a reminder of where it began
>>97668097The big moss clumps look too large scale to me.
