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Work in Progress, Centurion Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

>Previous Threads:
>>97666487
>>97647829
>>97623555
>>97605414
>>
>>97683449
Its just in the ugly phase, once you get the other main base colors blocked in it'll look better.
>>
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Does the yellowish green hand work? I kinda feel like it's too bright and I should've went with either the same color as the top branches or just proper green like the leaves.
>>
Asking again.
Is Mod Podge Matte like AK Ultra Matte and if there is a shine to ModPodge Matte I'll pick Ultra Matte.
If Ultra Matte Mod Podge does anybody know if the Pro Acryl caps will work as a replacement for the spray cap the bottles come with?
>>
>>97683686
Feels like its osl with no light source ngl famalam.
>>
>>97683686
>>97683757
Agreed, I think it needs some darker recesses to balance it out a bit. Either a light glaze of your brown or the dark green should do it, leaving that light yellow highlight as is should work nicely.
>>
>>97683757
>>97683770
Yeah I wasn't really feeling it either. I'll work on it some more, thanks anons
>>
I'm doing an oil wash and I hit my guy with a gloss varnish maybe 45 minutes ago. What's the shortest time I can get away with waiting until painting on top of the gloss coat?
>>
>>97683935
Gloss acrylic? A couple hours should be good. I doubt the oil wash will reactivate it. Unless it's some cheap ass paint.
>>
>>97683935
The outer layer of the gloss will feel dry long before its fully cured, you don't want to risk rubbing the gloss off when you wipe off your wash. Three or four hours should be ok, but I usually let them sit overnight to be sure. Overkill but I'm something of a worrier.
>>
>>97683953
It was army painter, so I was planning to let it sit overnight.
>>
>>97683935
I'd wait 24hr/overnight.
Nothing really 'reactivates' acrylic, but any liquid softens it, including oil paint thinner, so when you go in to clean up your oil wash you want it to be maximum hardness to minimize your chances that rubbing the oil off will damage the gloss coat.
>>
>>97683965
I see. That's good to know.
>>
>>97683935
As other anon said, overnight/24 hours. But the best way is to just test it on a piece of plasticard or something. It depends on a varnish, too.
>>
>I want an obsidian flow effect for basing.
I am currently gluing scraps of plasticard and thick ropey sprue goo to the base but it's not looking good yet. maybe if I cover with water fx?
apparently I'm the first to try this, I can't find anything similar posted.
>>
>>97684053
I'm not sure what you mean exactly by "obsidian flow". Like molten obsidian or some kind of black flowing substance?
>>
>>97683686
You could go lighter brown like extra dead wood
>>
>>97684053
unironically try hotglue
>>
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>>97684172
picrel is what I'm trying to get to, lots of smooth, frozen, waves with sharp jagged edges

>>97684831
I can't get the sharp edges that way
>>
>>97684936
Get a little silicone cup or paper cup or something, or even just a little bowl made from plastic wrap. Pour in a thick layer of mod podge crackle. Let it dry, it will take like 2 or 3 days, just leave it. You'll get a bunch of chunks that look pretty close to that with smooth but undulating faceted surfaces.
It's a trick for getting ice chunks for bases, honestly the crackle process is probably pretty close in general mechanism to how that obsidian forms and cracks. You just need a really thick layer of it to crack in 3 dimensions.
It'll be clear, though, you'd have to paint over it and maybe add some swirling details painted on.
>>
>>97684936
>>97684960
I'm doing an example for you (I have only done this once before.)
I'll post when it's dry I'll show you what it looks like. Might be next thread though, it'll be a few days.
>>
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>post work
>no collage in next thread
>don't post work for a couple of threads
>every OP is collage
>post work again
>no collage in next thread
sorry guys, it was my fault
>>
>>97685088
I just assumed it was like >>>/ic/beg/ and my work wasn't good enough for the collage
>>
>>97685088
Honestly, while I like it being mixed up, I don't like having a collage every thread. Feels more special if you get selected as an OP pic instead of just grabbed as one of many images
>>
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Batch painting some Mortifactors.

>>97684053
You could build exaggerated waves with milliput and a couple of rounded tools, then put crackle paste on top.
It is slower than what >>97684960 suggested, but it might give you more control on character bases.
>>
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>>97685209
Australian photo, apparently.
>>
>>97685209
g'day cunt, those are some fine minis but when you're done with your VB longneck you should crop your photo just a bit, so the rest of the world doesn't see it upside down when 4chan strips out the exif data

>>97685217
welcome back to civilization! I really like the bases and the edge highlights on the weapona
>>
>>97685209
While I make fun of 90 degree posters, I don't even know how you managed a completely upside down picture. I don't think I have a gif of an anime girl making a complete 180 head tilt to reply to that with.
>>
>>97684053
get some flint from the ground, break it repeteadly, glue it to your base
it has the same fracture patter as obsidian
you could also try breaking marbles, but that's more dangerous
>>
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Feeling pretty good about this Ophidian Destroyer. Think I'm gonna give him a snow base once I finish up the rest of these Necrons.
>>
Going for an alternate colour scheme for my termies because I just love purple.
>>
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Working on my first Battletech mech. Fucking teeny tiny decals, but I like how it's starting to take shape.
>>
I bought that H&S Evolution airbrush, I really, REALLY hope it will be better than my Chinese one. I would be very pissed to discover that internal (inside nozzle) paint drying problem was not related to airbrush itself.

So far trigger feels heavier than Chinese one, especially pressing for air.
>>
>>97685612
You can drop a VERY tiny touch of lube into those lil notches in the trigger and then work it a bit. It's not needed or required, but it can help the initial breaking in.
>>
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>>97683543
My friend gave me this thing but i don't know what to do with it? Look like some sort of scraper?
>>
>>97685728
thats for making panel lines and also enlarging holes, can be used to scrape mold lines and stuff like that too
the flat back side is a regular chisel

>https://gv-vod-cdn.aliexpress-media.com/ae_sg_gmc/video_target/gv90-16f128c1-a181a454-8fecdcbe-5226/trans/7c896b92-f740-44fb-8fee-ea72b7cef071-hd.mp4
>>
>>97685728
A quick Google of DSPIAE suggests it's a broad edge broach. Looks like it's intended as a bit of a multi tool for cleaning bits off the sprue and such.
>>
>>97685741
>>97685744
What about miniature?
>>
>>97685728
luv me some DSPIAE. Underrated, and actually high quality chinkshit.
>>
>>97685746
it's the same, if you don't do conversions or anything i guess just scraping mold lines, you will know what to use it for when you need it tho
>>
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Speaking of DSPIAE, what do you guys think about this electronic sander? Will this work better than regular hobby knife and sand paper?
>>
>>97685790
I use an electric glass engraver with several different bits for sanding and shaping.
>>
>>97685832
But diamond bits are much harsher on plastic than sanding sponge?
>>
>>97685842
Well, the finish is smooth enough and some of the bits are for polishing if it's a problem.
>>
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>>97685832
>electric glass engraver
Something like this?
>>
>>97685864
Yeah, but mine has more pixels.
>>
>>97683543
Idiot procrastinator here.

Is there a reliable technique for getting dust off of a primed model?
>>
>>97685984
Just rinse it with water or use a soft brush like a makeup one? Is this a trick question or something
>>
>>97685984
I blast them with air using my airbrush.
>>
Do you have any particular paint for drybrushing metallic paints? The citadel dry metal "necron compound" I had became a rock.
>>
>>97685728
it's for stabbing the homeless guys that bother you at work
>>
>>97685832
while they sare some applications those two tools serve different purposes
>>
>>97686244
Elaborate.
>>
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>>97686182
I normally use Vallejo and Ammo Atom metallics.
This dude was drybrushed entirely with Sheik Mainland metallics, except for the weathering and chipping.
>>
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>>97686264
with a rotary tool you can remove material fine but you can't fine control the plane in wich you do, so sanding a straight wall wil most likely leave it not straight, with a reciprocating tool, the movement of the tool defines the plane
it also allows sanding places where you can't get an engraving bit into, and if you could with milling bits you have the same problem as above
>>
>>97686310
I see. I'm not really sanding planes though, I got sandpaper for that. I need to sand hard to reach places and sometimes cut away material.
>>
>>97686346
>sand hard to reach places
that's my point, there are places that a rotary tool can't reach and the other way around too
however a proper rotary tool like a dremel clone with speed control is more versatile
>>
>>97686376
problem with dremel is that even the slowest setting is usually too fast for many purposes and thats why you need to own regular power drill too
>>
>>97683686
It would work if the elfpart wasn't purple, but the contrast is too high now.
>>
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A couple of recent ones - forgot to add tufts to the bases...
>>
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>>
>>97686420
yeah actual dremels do be like that, but i have seen some clones go as low as 500rpm or something
if you have one already you definitely need a separate tool, if not, shop around, i think the proxxon one goes very low too but it's expensive as fuck

i have one of the battery dremels for wich i made a corded adapter with a voltage regulator (becasue fuck batteries) so i can get it to spin very slowly for plastic
>>
Small update on my gloss varnish and oil wash: waiting 24 hours would have been a better play, but ~14 hours seems to have mostly worked out. There is a spot on the crux terminatus where I rubbed too hard, but otherwise it went pretty well. Currently waiting on the oil paint to completely cure.
>>
>>97686809
Bless. Don't forget, you can use the oil paints, too, not just the wash. They are fantastic for making gradients and smooth shading. What takes hours for the acrylic glazing virgin, you can do in minutes with oils.
>>
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Tried to do some grassy bases using milliput and small plastic ferns. There is clearly room for improvements but it's not that bad from afar.
>>
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Testing drying process of oils.

Sooo, I've let paints rest on a cardboard for the night, bought a different type of thinner, what I got originally was too "greasy", craft/industrial type of shit, added to the fact that oil paints I bought are "fine" grade, they're buttery textured, and super oily, so no wonder why my shits wont dry ever.

Letting that dry for the night and praying.
>>
>>97686820
>you can use the oil paints, too, not just the wash.
What'd be the best effect to try this out on?
>>
>>97686860
Basecoat with color of your choice
make little dots of offwhite oil paint on top
make little dots of very dark brown/gray or black below, where the shadow is supposed to be
use CLEAN, dry brushes to smooth and fluff it around until you get the shading you want

Add a bit of white spirit to your brush, and you can do lovely rain/water streaks with the offwhite, and grime, rust and dirt with darker color.
>>
>>97686888
That does sound very nice. I recently got into airbrushing in gradients, but I'll have to try that out on a big guy like a dreadnought when I get around to him.
>>
>>97686928
Airbrushing is imo the best way of doing gradients. But on positively tiny stuff, oils are also great.
>>
>>97686845
When I do oil stuff (or anything that takes a long time to set), I leave a test patch on something, like one of those cheap disposable plastic palettes so I know when they're good. The oil paint will easily rub off for a couple of days probably, but eventually it will set properly and be really stuck on there, and you can know that with the palette rather than risking it with your model. Ofc you would want to do any thinner clean-up on the model prior to that point or it will be too difficult, I just mean for when you can start to safely work over it again without any issue.
>>
making progress
>>
>>97686539
>>97686545
The glow effect would be better with an overall darker scheme, but still nice.
>>
>>97687112
Good point. There's a balance - didn't want a murky tone. But more contrast would be good if done right. I try it - maybe go with black shrouds and nightmare next time.

And tufts - mustn't forget the tufts on the next ones. :)
>>
>>97687058
Rock n roll, baby. Love it. Needs a good base - I'd suggest adding some skulls but it's probably better to keep it simple since the sculpt is already busy.
>>
>>97686823
Nice.

If you're looking for a desert scene, AK Interactive light crackle paint works great - just test it out first to get the depth and drying right. Don't use the dark version, it doesn't work.

For a damper, darker look, AK dark earth texture paint is great, then you can add grass flock or Dirty Down moss paint on top. And tufts. :)
>>
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I personally just can't take a chance on Army Painter products.

The quick shades, which they had to reformulate once already, still have reactivation and cracking issues, no matter how many painting channels they sponsor on YouTube.

How hard is it to make a product that doesn't do this?
>>
>>97685984
Large blush brush, soft and cheap.
>>
>>97686860
Here's a model I did a couple years ago, oil paints on top of my acrylic base coat. Its pretty rough but it was my first project trying it out.
>>
>>97687290
>I personally just can't take a chance on Army Painter products.
Same. Its not like we dont have options so im not taking the gamble.
>>
>>97687290
I mean why would you buy again from a brand that already disappointed you before?
>>
>>97687290
AP is garbage and even some shit tubers are now turning on it (like Stahly). Albeit, very gently to my tastes.
It's also a redundant garbage, when you have AK or even Vallejo.
>>
>>97687290
I had this happen recently with an AP speedpaint. Turns out it was because I hadn't let the layer below (airbrush zenithal) dry for long enough. I stripped the minis (pain in the neck) then repeated the same process with more drying time, and it was fine.

I do have issues with some of the AP speedpaints drying too fast and being prone to ink stains. Murder Scene is particularly bad. I have to be really careful with thinning that one and a couple of others, or I have to use a drying retardant.

I use all sorts of paints so am not an AP fanboy. The ink stains I have as their fault (paint too think out of the bottle). The crackling was probably my fault (impatience). :)
>>
>>97687058
sick
>>
>>97687376
>bubblellejo shills still trying
LMAO
>>
>>97687393
I never had any issues with Vallejo. I had a fuckload of problems with AP.
That said, I still think there's not really that many reasons to buy from either of these when there's AK around.
>>
>>97687434
I can't stand AKI paints, especially their metallics
I primarily use TTC and proacryl now, a couple scale75 colors I'll use till they run out then cope with replacements since avante sucks donkey dick
also with some AP fanatics and one vallejo yellow-green for certain colors I don't feel like mixing
>>
>>97687474
>I can't stand AKI paints
why
>>
>>97685340
I've been wondering why are your necrons blue? aren't they supposed to be made out of some kind of living metal?
>>
>>97687507
the most inconsistent quality between colors and some as thick as citadel drybrushing paint
>>
>>97687434
I use a mix of Vallejo, AP, AK, the occasional Citadel, Reaper and some generic fluorescents and unusual metallics I can't find anywhere else. Plus Dirty Down environmentals.

I've had good experiences overall with all of them, and occasional issues with products from all of the manufacturers. AP Speedpaints can dry too fast for my taste and are prone to reactivating, and can also leave a residue on the brush. Some Vallejo colors can be a bit runny out of the bottle if I don't mix them enough, and I can't for the life of me figure out their colorshift paints.

But compared to the 1980s, when I was stuck with Airfix Enamels, these days the options are much, much better. :)
>>
>>97685790
I wouldn't bother with any of these cheap rotary tools. spend your big boy money and get a man's flexible shaft tool.
>>
If I were to listen to this thread, then I'd be using none of the paints because apparently they are all shit.
>>
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I mostly use "old" Vallejo Model Colour, a few "old" Vallejo Game Colour, and a few Citadel paints and washes. But even then it's the old Nuln Oil not the new semi-thick Nuln Oil
>>
>>97687590
the old vallejo paints were fantastic
it's such a shame the new formulations are so trash
>>
Pro acryl is the only brand I've gotten anything from that I found truly vile, but they also have some really great paints. Now that AP isn't shit anymore, I think all the big name brands are mostly putting out good stuff.
>>
>>97687563
You can make crayola paints work,, unironically.
>>
>>97687538
>inconsistent quality between colors
Uhh the exact opposite is true from my experience honestly. Though I do agree their metallics are weird.
>>
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>>97687590
>tfw sitting on 3 large unopened bottles each of old formula nuln, agrax, and seraphim

I miss old VMC prussian blue, my beloved.
>>
I miss the stink of devlan mud
>>
>>97687606
Same. I'm kinda sus of that anon's claims. There are things AK paints are not great at, but consistency is definitely not amongst these.
>>
>>97687602
What product did you get from PA that was vile?
>>
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>>97687606
>>97687616
You can be skeptical but I tried a range of colors from them and found them to be inferior
>>
>>97687622
Not them, but the only PA paint that I've tried and had issues with was their orange. The rest of the line has the same gel consistency, orange came out the bottle almost pre-thinned like an airbrush paint.
>>
>>97687616
not either anon but i use mostly AK a few proacryl and some artist paint. In my experience the effects and metalics from AK are bad but the normal colors are very consistent and can be used with a variety of techniques. I had trouble with proacryl due to its thin out the bottle consistency for the techniques I use. Honestly most hobby acrylics are at least okay IMO. Nothings gonna be as good as an artist line like golden soflat.
>>
>>97687563
Reaper's good
>>
>>97687636
I have around 80 AK paints and the only ones I don't like are metallics. And I still don't think they are really BAD, it's just that Vallejo metallics are miles better.
That said, I never tested any blues you have there.
>>
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>>97687636
Maybe it's an issue with some colors or something? I have these and they're all very similar in quality and consistency.
>>
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WIP update. The oil has cured enough for a picture. I feel like this went pretty well. While I wait on the oil to completely cure, I'm going to move on to my chapter master.
>>
>>97687622
I despise the way their khaki and orange brown behave when thinned at all, instead of diluting in an even way, the paint just breaks on the model into patches. I dont if that's user error and I'm retarded, but it's totally different from every other acrylic paint I'm familiar with.
>>
i have to remember to buy light brown from something else than citadel because skrag brown does not cover at all
bestial brown worked just fine
>>
>>97687728
With PA you don't really add water to it or else it gets too thin and breaks. You put it on your wet palette and pull a little bit from your main drop and spread it on the paper, it should absorb enough water from the wet palette from there. Also need to make sure the brush is moist but not wet, wicking excess water from it on some paper towel between the rinse cup and the palette. It has a learning curve, its going to look and feel too thick but will lay properly on the model.

I had emailed their customer service in the past about their primer rubbing off, they said that you should barely thin it and add just enough thinner/flow improver mix to get it to spray. Once I did that I had much better results.
>>
Since there's a paint discussion going on, can someone recommend a good range of airbrush paints, or should I just thin down my regular ones? Can you even use speedpaints with an airbrush? Pretty sure they'll clog the nozzle on my Eclipse.

I've finally reached a point where using an airbrush doesn't automatically destroy the mini, so it's probably time for an upgrade. :)
>>
>>97685349
Did you put those on 50mm bases?
>>
I got my coomer order of Lilith hesperax, lady malys, and a callidus assassin today. They're just going to be nice little quick palate cleanser minis. Getting lilith's face to not look terrible is going to be a challenge though.
>>
>>97687786
normal paints thinned with most ranges will work fine through the airbrush, citadel's dedicated air paints are good but the pots are retarded, vallejo are is good since the bubbling worry of normal vallejo is a non-issue, army painter air is good, scale75 and proacryl and TTC thin down and spray through an airbrush perfectly fine too
speedpaints work great through the airbrush, it's like spraying inks
just go in thin layers to keep it from pooling on flat surfaces
>>
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finally started making some decent pictures
>>
>>97687786
All the modern brands apart from AP thin down their paints to go through an airbrush these days. It's the main reason I use AP paints, sometimes I want a bit of bite and thickness for texture.
>>
>>97687847
>tacticool
>grimy and weathered, but not grimslop
>raven guard
Nearly illegal levels of based.
You should remove all the hair, tho.
>>
>>97687847
Too good, unfortunately. Now you have to dust off your models properly or we can see all the hair and dust. But otherwise looks pretty good. I especially like the white. Assuming the chipping and discoloration is actually paint and not just the model being dirty.
>>
>>97687784
I got into an argument with the owner of proacryl over issues with how the paint handles water. It has issues with water in general, the amount of binder in the paint is low so if you thin with anything but medium it can freak out and sometimes it creates rough texture due to the matting agent. The paint was designed by a guy who lives in Arizona and paints using exclusively a dry pallet made out of a tile. If you know this everything about its design makes sense.
>>
>>97687919
On one hand, I respect the autism of making a paint brand suited solely to your hyper-specific user case. On the other hand, it's also extremely retarded.
>>
>>97687919
I was about to bitch I've never had that problem with Pro Acryl no matter how much I've bothered to thin it (it doesn't need much), but I also paint off of a bathroom tile, so I may also be the exact kind of freakish lizardman Pro Acryl is made for.
>>
>>97687874
>some people actually paint on weathering
>not just dipping your minis in a mud puddle.
Imagine.
>>
>>97687919
I use it on a wet palette in the PNW just fine
I just put less water in the sponge than I used to
>>
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>>97687868
>>97687874
i live in an attic, i never seem to be able to get it all off
>>
>>97687941
>>97687953
It works well for its intended use case, if you happen to mix it with medium or other paints it wont have issues. My experience as someone who uses a lot of other acrylics was that i'd put proacryl on a pallete alongside different paints and it was the only one that freaked out when i thinned to a glaze with just water instead of medium. And due to it being the only diva in the bunch I simply chose to phase it out of my process.


I think its good for what its designed to do and bad for me personally which is what lead to asking the guy why his paint did that. If it works for your process then its a good product for you. I'm not advising to avoid it, just acknowledging some of its issues.
>>
>>97687919
It's not really his or pro-acryl's problem when it comes to his product and him openly recommending people use it a certain way and then people bitching that when they use it a different way they don't get the results they want.

I respect Jason for being probably the only founder/CEO of a hobby paint company that actually paints anything at all (things like two thin coats aren't real products, they're just the same as every other hobby paint, we all agree PA is at least a relatively unique product or we wouldn't be having this conversation), and does so publicly for free and answers pretty much every question for 10+ hours a week, even if some of the answers come of as a little salesy.

That said, I do think his aversion to wet palletes is nitpicky and not really that well informed given his own reasonings behind it.
>>
>>97687975
I've definitely had trouble trying to get it into a glaze consistency and not breaking with water, but their reds and oranges thin with water beautifully for me
>>
>>97687966
I live in pure dust and it comes off fine. Do you smoke or cook in that room?
>>
>>97688007
my appartment is like one big room so yeah, my cat also enjoys rubbing on my display cabinet
>>
>>97687995
100% agree glaze medium is needed for a thin glaze, and it tends to dry with a little shine. Not a problem if you varnish after but it is a consideration.
>>
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>>97687966
>Shrike
>converted to his classic look
Based! Well done.


I use picrelated to dust off models. It's a soft brush to clean camera lenses. It's firm enough for dust, but doesn't damage the model.
>>
>>97687919
That does make a lot of sense.
>>
>>97688026
Maybe you're getting some sticky grease on your models via the smoke.
>>
Since this is a paint wars thread thoughts on

>Scale 75


I like their metallics best in the game I like true metallics more than NMM
>>
>>97688098
good but you can't get them in america anymore
>>
>>97687994
>Two thin coats
Who actually makes these paints? I know ttc is just a rebranding and that they don’t actually have any manufacturing.
>>
>>97688245
trans atlantic games
>>
>>97687808
Thanks guys, much appreciated. I may go with AP since I also have their speedpaints - it will be easier to match the colors.
>>
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>>97688293
I love shotgun greatsword head and drillhead
>>
>>97688255
Thanks anon
>>
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Watch out anons. There is a skeleton ITT.
>>
>>97688633
too spoopy for me
>>
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>>97688633
>>
>>97688633
If i had a nickle

(For every time some anon posts sideways)
>>
>>97688633
>tfw you are a stalfos and you get stuck in that hallway in the forest temple.
>>
>>97688633
I don't mean to kinkshame but it looks like somebody popped a boner...
>>
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>>97683770
>>97684174
>>97686472
He's done, I went with green in the end.
>>
>>97688756
Although I rly liked that piss green color before, this works so much better for the model. Excellent painting, how did you get so good?
>>
>>97688098
>paint wars thread
I've been using the reaper paints that came with a kickstarter bundle and they have sparked joy.
>>
>>97688780
Thank you anon! Honestly I just paint a lot, so practice I guess? I think it's also important to try new stuff so you don't get stuck in place.
>>
>>97684960
I didn't know mod podge made a crackle, that looks like a very cool idea. Will definitely get a bottle and try some experiments with it. I was stumped the most with how to get the basic shapes, smoothing them together shouldn't be TOO hard. Thanks anon
>>
>>97688633
(How he looks after i fainted from fear)
>>
>>97687334
It's very technically impressive, but way too brown for me. Is it possible to do a bright version?
>>
This has been a very fun project and gave me an excuse to play with Liquitex acrylic inks.

Only needs some super slight varnishing along with AK snow texturing applied to the base and it’s done. I’m ready to get back to my Ultramarines and Orks.
>>
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Batch painting and learning how to use an air brush
>>
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>>97689241
>>
>>97689245
what minis are those?
>>
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>>97687527

Because they're my Necrons and I can paint them however I want.

But for real, because I wanted them to look like something from one of my favorite Video Games. Pic related.
>>
>>97689301
>Because they're my Necrons and I can paint them however I want.
Unfathomably based.
>>
Does anybody else paint coomer minis because they act as surrogate gfs while painting them?
Just me?
>>
>>97689301
Well, I don't know what that is, so it can't be from a GOOD video game, but what you've done for your crons looks cool. Reminds me of Lego Space Police.
>>
>>97689299
They look like OnePageRules Human Defence Force
>>
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Painted these guys, nice little bunch of badasses even if they lack a bit of differentiation for a kill team.
>>
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>>97689488

They've been compared to Nerf before and now Lego lol

I don't know why since I haven't had a Nerf gun in 25 years and my parents were too poor to buy me REAL Legos. But the game is Final Fantasy XI. It's a hobby goal of mine to paint the Void Dragon model up like Pic Related who was one of the hardest Mega-Bosses in the game. It's actually one of the main reasons I picked Necrons. The monster in my previous pic is from one of the zones nearby where this guy can be found.
>>
Working on some Tron-dar. Blocking in some colors before adding some fluoro light effects.
>>
should you use flow improver with vallejo primer? or is just a little bit of thinner good enough?
>>
>>97689581
Are those Promathia and Jailer of Temperance? I played FFXI for many years, a long while ago. I did beat them both eventually. Great game.
>>
>>97689171
Lol yeah, mistakes were made. I used a mix of ivory black and burnt umber but probably should have used just one or the other on different parts (ivory black on the metals, burnt umber on everything else). I also had the oil way too thick and left it on too long so it really stained the acrylics. On top of that I only had a beginners set of oils to work with so my color choices were somewhat limited. Learned a lot, this guy was about a year or so later and is oil paints on top of an ivory basecoat (and its probably one of the best that I've been able to do with oil paints so far).
>>
>>97689904
Love your oily boyz
>>
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Another pinup, base nit done but otherwise im happy with hiw she turned out.
I feel like im getting better now better at painting with my pinups than when I am when painting my warhammer armies.
>>
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Spent a bit longer on the base than I was planning to, but not too bad.
Gonna paint her up like a Ghost from Starcraft, not sure if blonde for November, or redhead for Sarah though.
>>
>Come back from work
>Want to paint but too tired to paint
>Weekend
>Want to paint but feel tired to paint
>>
>>97690093
take a li'le vacay
>>
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I posted this in a /40kg/ thread some time ago, but this is my most recently finished model. I'm happy it but I'm always second guessing how my models turn out. One thing I don't think I'm quite happy with are the highlights on the carapace, I feel like they're too "chunky", and I should be hitting the tips and ridges with a lighter blue to break up the consistency since it's all one color right now. One anon suggested some highlights on the ridges of the "tail" section as well which I agree with.
>>
>>97689919
Gross, furslop. Go back.
>>
>>97690202
you do not belong here newfag
>>
>>97690217
Projection from a post-/mlp/ tourist. This is an anime website, and furshit has never been welcome.
>>
>>97690220
you know nothing of this board and its founding culture, projecting shitstain
>>
>>97690220
And this board has always been infested with furries. hence why you being new is so obvious. People literally come here for niche fetish posting. They literally had to start banning the monster girl and giant women threads.
>>
>>97690229
>>97690237
Fuck off furfaggots, go sniff your dogs asshole or something.
>>
>>97690253
go back
>>
>>97690253
Being wrong is okay anon. You're new, we understand.
>>
>>97689842

Absolute Virtue and Jailer of Temperance. Good eye! I want to do my Nightbringer like Promathia.
>>
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Gonna leave the Ophidians alone now. The Hexmark in the back is gonna have to wait till I'm off of work so I can airbrush it.

I think I'm gonna start building some other Necrons tomorrow.
>>
>>97690471

...
>>
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>accidentally started an argument on here

Sorry about that. Just wanted to show my pinups, like pic related which I finished a few days ago before my undead, cthulhu(>>97680887) and lizard pinups.

Im just enjoying painting non human pinups more atm. Though i got like 25 or so kingdom death pinups to build n paint too.
>>
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I converted the March mini of the month to a Cawdor ganger. Still some work left but quite happy about the results.
>>
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>>97690555
From the back.
>>
>>97690521
don't mind the sperg
>>
>>97689186
I prefer Alatreon or Nergigante
>>
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>>97689299
>>97689508
yes they are
>>
>>97690521
>Gyathid
>>
>>97690805

Namielle is my favorite MHWorlds monster. I swear I'm gonna paint some Tyranids like it someday.
>>
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>>97691069
Mizutsune my beloved
>>
>>97689904
Looks great! I love the depth on the skin tones, and especially the visor. Nice job.
>>
>>97690297
I forgot about Absolute Virtue! One of the most challenging HNMs in any MMORPG. I did have a Temperance Axe (but not the torque), but I never fought Jailer of Love.
>>
>>97689186
Terrific stuff, anon.
>>
I hope whoever invented splitting hands in half for model assembly gets a hangnail.
>>
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Achtung !
>>
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Fair bit left to do on the tracks, weathering and crew, but finally made some progress on this big fucker after having him sat on my shelf for 2 years
Just waiting for the wind to fuck off so I can take the rest of the lads outside for priming
>>
>>97691406
>2 years
did you make this yourself because i think it is neat
>>
>>97691429
old Forge World lad
>>
>>97691451
i was never big on orcs so it must be the imperial armour battle fortress
>>
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Got some progress done on my rocket battery, finally.
Guess I'm kinda close to completion. Just gotta do some washes on the gold, the gems, and the glow effects around the flames.
>>
Slowly working through my backlog. First time doing anything chaos. Thinking of doing the base in a dark color and trying to make it look proper chaosy.
>>
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>>97691792
Helps if I attach the picture.
>>
>>97691491
2bh the neat paneling on the roof and sides does make it look like looted imperial compared to later FW ork offerings like the killtanks, feels like a very different aesthetic.
You can tell its an old kit because putting it together was fucking suffering, and the reason it sat on my shelf for years
>>
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>>97691451
>>97691850
looks like kustom battle fortress from imperial armour apocalypse 2007
so that would make it 4th edition i think
>>
>>97691891
Do you know how much psychic damage I took as a child not knowing how to obtain a battlewagon despite there being one in the codex?
I couldn't understand at the time.
>>
Hey guys, what texture paints for snow do you guys use? Wouldn't mind example pictures, thanks. Going to add some to legions imperialis bases.
>>
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>>97691977
Baking soda mixed with PVA glue. It's basically the same as any snow powder or texture you would get. You should tint some bits kind of light blue for some variation, and still need to underpaint with whatever icy colors you are going for.
>>
>>97692004
Eh, don't have the time and energy for that unfortunately. I barely have time to paint as it is and I need extremely small amounts at a time. Thank you for the reply and attaching a picture, friend.
>>
>>97692027
I'm sure any snow texture paste is going to be similarly fine then, just get whatever is most convenient on amazon. I'm sure any AK or Vallejo ones are fine.
>>
>>97692027
so better get to to it then and make few test batches and see how they dry up till tomorrow
>>
>>97692027
time and energy for mixing baking soda and glue in a cup? how hard do you think that is?
>>
>>97692004
>baking soda

Won't that absorb moisture from the air and turn yellow over time?
>>
>>97692114
depends how thick and how many layers of varnish
>>
>>97692114
Idk. I'll be dead before I care about that happening.
>>
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Wip gotta salvage him
>>
>bought expensive H&S airbrush
>now too afraid to use it because how expensive it is

Fuck. Me.
>>
>>97692136
Stop being a dumbass. HS brushes are REALLY well-built and much, much tougher than your usual chinkshit. You would have to make a very deliberate effort to fuck it up. And even if you would somehow fuck it up, replacement parts are cheap and readily available.
>>
>>97691977
AK interactive snow sprinkles has the best shiny wet looking snow imo
>>
>>97691891
Nah it’s older than that lad, iirc it first appeared in imperial armour update in 2002 back in 3rd
>>97691937
Me too lad, I always wished for one of these as a 13yr old. But it would have been the supreme monkeypaw as there isn’t a single shot in hell I could have put this shit together back then, it was hard enough as a 35yr old
>>
>>97692136
>tfw still haven't used the kolinsky brush anon gifted me years ago
and that's a good thing, because I killed like 3 brushes since before I learned by this point how not to be silly with them
>>
>>97692154
Thank you.
>>97692065
I was thinking AK.
>>97692070
Nah, I don't think I will.
>>97692086
I said time you dumbo.
>>
>>97691795
Based and primordial truth pilled.
>>
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>>97692230
do not buy only snow sprinkles, it looks like cum foam on its own
pic related
>>
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>>97692230
>>97692262
and this is ak snow with a touch of sprinkles on some places
>>
>>97691937
>Do you know how much psychic damage I took as a child not knowing how to obtain a battlewagon despite there being one in the codex?
There was a similar deal with Land Raiders until they came out with the big plastic Third Edition one that has been the staple for the last 20 years. Unless you had a First Edition Land Raider, you had to build/convert your own, or you were outta luck.
>>
>>97692262
What the fuck is wrong with your body if your cum looks like that
>>
>>97692286
Ah, finally somebody older than me. I started in third edition, so I've always known the current landraider. And I pray to god every day that they don't ruin it by making a repulsor version.
>>
I am now stumped regarding oil washes. Should I do my highlights before the wash and let them get tinted with the same black-brown as all the base colors, or after the wash?
>>
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>>97692153
Im not so sure anon, I can't help but imagine easily bending or damaging needle with that front cap of Evolution constantly exposing it.

>>97692195
I can relate, left cup on pic contains only unused brushes, 1/3 of them being natural hair ones (red sable). I have unexplained need to gather replacements and spare parts/tools beforehand, even if I never ends up using them.
>>
>>97692328
You can always build the highlights back up if you don't like how they look post-wash.
>>
>>97692328
Personally I would suggest applying oil wash after base color layer, then clean it up and then start going up with highlights. Scale models and minis actually benefit from sometimes unrealistic high contrast.
>>
>>97692340
Very true.
>>
>>97692262
Cum expert here, that doesn't look like cum.
>>
>>97692334
>Im not so sure anon, I can't help but imagine easily bending or damaging needle with that front cap of Evolution constantly exposing it.
Naw bruv, HS needles are tough as shit. I've abused mine a lot (like the tip getting caught into a glove or shirt, or banging it against metal cup a few times) and it is still in great shape. Mind you, I have Infinity and I use it without the cap.
If you are nervous about the needle, get a replacement anyway. They are cheap and airbrush needles are bound to be replaced at some point anyway.
Chill out and enjoy your new brush, Evolution is fucking great.
>>
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>>97692326
here it is
and i started in 3rd edition too
>>
>>97692262
>>97692269
Cheers!
>>
>>97692262
That looks like snow are you high?
>>
Do you guys ever bother with static grass applicator for your basing? I know it's widely used in the train modelling scene, I'm pondering if it's worthwhile in wargaming too at smaller scales.
>>
>>97692425
i just dip my models in the tub and press the grass on
maybe if i wanted to make it look like they were standing on a grassy field but thats rarely the case, would make a kickass bloodbowl pitch though if they dont sell grass mats anymore
>>
>>97692425
No, because I rarely use grass in my basing.
>>
>>97692425
It will definitely helps with grass, especially taller one, looking good but commercial ones are definitely too expensive and I found out that making one on your own is surprisingly problematic now. I say now since people older than me would simply need to take some existing tool, solder few wires and voila. Some old grandpa told me to just get electric fly trap but every single one I found at shops were alternating instead of direct and still producing very weak voltage (1.5kV) for the purpose of static grass (it ment that I would had to basically almost touch surface with the mesh). Apparently "negative ion generators" are cheap modules suitable for the job (especially since they produce very low current and are thus safer) but couldn't find it at any shop except AliExpress and I won't deal with shipping 2.5€ worth module with much larger shipping cost, thank you very much.
>>
>>97692487
Couldn't you just use a balloon after rubbing it on your head?
>>
>>97692326
>Ah, finally somebody older than me. I started in third edition, so I've always known the current landraider.
I own one of each. The newer model is not finished.

>And I pray to god every day that they don't ruin it by making a repulsor version.
I don't really think they need to, since the two models fulfill similar but ultimately different roles
>>
>>97692425
No, I just sprinkle it on out of the tub and sweep the rest up and put it back in when I'm done. Don't need anything special.
>>
My airbrush keeps doing the thing where it won’t spray paint but when you release it spits out a spurt of paint. I have tried everything I can think of to fix it. I have used Flow Improver, Airbrush Thinner, Citadel paint, Vallejo paint, 2mm needle and nozzle, 3mm needle and nozzle, 30psi, 20psi, 15psi, 12psi. No matter what I try it’s the same problem over. Is it possible my airbrush is just trash? That can’t be it right? An airbrush is just a chunk of metal how hard is it to make? So obviously it’s a user error but what’s me error?
>>
>>97692547
Too weak, unfortunately. Plus, if you apply glue to surface and drop static grass just like that, it will most likely fall on side and glue itself in that position. Applicator creates small electric field between surface and mesh, forcing grass to land upright from the start. You also need thinned glue for that or they will fail to pierce its surface.
>>
>>97692618
i just paint with little timed spurts if that happens
i thought thats what everyone does
>>
>>97692618
You probably did this already, but if not, completely disassemble it (or at least the parts that contact paint), soak the parts that contact paint in isopropanol and gently brush them with a soft toothbrush. Allow to dry completely, then reassemble.

What brand is it? I use Iwata and they are workhorses. I also have a cheap generic airbrush (bought for its very small needle size), it's trash and leaks like a sieve.

Hope this helps and I'm not being Captain Obvious. :)
>>
>>97691406
That looks damn good, anon.
>>
>>97692644
Same poster. If you want a good, decently priced brand-name entry level airbrush, you can get an Iwata Neo from Blick for $69.99. I gave one to my teenage kids and they love it.
>>
>>97691406
>>97691406
I'm jelly you have one, I'd love to get one of those old guys
>>
>>97692328
I don't get it isn't the point of an oil wash that you can remove it in places you don't want to be affected by it? plus you can simply just not put it in places that you don't want colored.

>>97692618
will it spray water properly?
>>
>>97692676
I need a dad to show me how to use it desu. Im thinking im probably holding it wrong or something screwy like that
>>
>>97692693
The next best thing to a Dad tutorial would be Vince Venturella's introductory airbrush video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJcgf31v5RU

There are a ton more videos out there, but this is one I found to be useful (plus it has a big-ass dragon). :)
>>
>>97692644
I haven’t done an alcohol soak on the pieces yet. Going to try that now
>>
>>97692712
Just don't disassemble or reassemble it over the sink in case you drop a small piece down the plughole.
>>
>>97692721
terrifying thought.
>>
>>97692712
keep in mind some anons claim ipa dissolves the rubber seals
>>
>>97692721
I dropped a nozzle into the sink once, managed to retrieve it thankfully.
>>
>>97692618
I had this happen to me pretty frequently while painting, soaking the nozzle in airbrush cleaner usually fixed it. To stop it from happening further, I found that I needed to thin the paint more and when changing colors/ cleaning to not blast the excess paint through the nozzle. Instead, rinse with water and backwash the cup and dump it. Repeat until the water bubbles come back clear, then do a backwash with airbrush cleaner. You don't want to push the paint in the nozzle deeper, you want to back it out. I used to dump the paint and run water through the brush and wipe out the cup, but that got me either totally clogged or doing tiny spurts.
>>
>>97692677
You can get them on taobao if you can find yourself a shopping agent (or a friend with a Chinese resident ID and a shipping account), I’m the latter so have no experience what to do beyond that I’m afraid
>>
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I dont know what im doing but imma keep going
>>
>>97693179
i think it looks okay in its own grimy way but you should really cover that right shoulder joint with something
>>
>>97690165
i think you have pretty good highlight going on there
its always either too chunky or too hard to make too thin so make it so that you can do it some 300 times and feel good about it
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZWSvHBG7X0w
oh... oh my god
>>
>>97693344
I don't know enough about photography to give a shit about this.
>>
>>97693344
This is extremely dependent on what are you shooting. So no, low as shit ISO is still a good practice for most mini/scale model photos.
>>
>>97693412
Why?
>>
>>97693344
First few seconds and first bullshit - no, it's not best to shoot at highest non-boosted iso. It doesn't matter that it will ends up with shorter exposure, noise will still be much more pronounced in higher iso than lower. I know, I actually shoot photos, including events at low light (idol performances are cool stuff). /p/ would either die from laughter or engage in shitstorm over 300 replies.

>nooo, it's not sensitivity you see!
Cool, call it signal amplifier, whatever, it won't change how it works at the end. Pretentious photog might tell you that he does not photograph objects but light reflected from these objects - it will still ends up with pictures showing said objects and that guy will be a jerk. As in old joke - typical guy from the street knows that water boils at 100C, first year student at physics course knows that boiling temperature of water is not exactly 100C because it depends on air pressure and graduate knows that 100C is good enough approximation in most everyday cases.

Sorry for little offtopic.
>>
>>97691119
Thank you kindly. Once I got the paint consistency down it was dead easy. Literally just progressive drybrushing of lighter colors with a filbert brush. Van dyke brown preglaze, drybrush with sap green over most of the skin, about 50:50 winsor yellow and sap green over a smaller area, then winsor yellow highlights on the brightest spots (skipped the chest to keep it darker). Let it set for a little then blended the transitions by tapping them with a soft dry brush. Recesses got a little van dyke brown to darken them back down and blended that once set. I'm big on autism and making notepad and visual references for myself so I can recreate the paint job that I will invariably forget lol.
>>
>>97693472
Because shooting insects/animals with a horsecock-sized glass or doing wide shots of a sun-lit mountain range is a very different venture than shooting a scale model (on your phone) in a white/black box. There's no silver bullet universal solution in photography, anon. For our uses, low ISO & strong white/neutral light is usually the way to go.
>>
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I haven't been able to work on this and I'm tempted to put it away for next year but I think I should get it over with. I like the colors for the most part, a little darker than I initially intended, but do you think there's a way to make the heart hands more obvious or is it good as is?
>>
>>97693511
I don't really understand why the size of the object matters here. Isn't it all about lighting?
>>
>>97693521
Yeah, make them brighter and sharpen their highlights. Don't overdo it though.
>>
>>97693543
Not at all.
>>
>>97693543
NTA
Anon, our entire hobby is constructed around the idea that we have to paint lighting details onto small objects because the light works differently when tiny.
>>
>>97693497
that matte varnish really tones down the reflection
>>
>>97693551
The light does not work differently when tiny, light stays the same until you get to atomic level. We paint light to suggest a specific lighting setting different from the boring TL light the miniature is likely under.
>>
>>97693597
NTA, but matt/flat varnish is THE magic juice.
>>
>>97693551
>Tiny light
Cute
>>
The AI doesn't know that citadel is dead yet ;_;
>>
>>97692300
>>97692420
>>97692348
ok maybe not cum but it looks a bit too much like foam
>>
>>97693710
it's true, it does look like soap foam.
>>
>>97693702
it got the base size right atleast because that is unnecessarily huge
>>
>>97693702
That's some adorable slop, anon.
>>
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Callin him done
>>
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>>97691187
Did some work today a little bit more nothing to crazy but it will look nice once its done I like that project
>>
>>97693938
you know how they say basing is half the model
to be brutally honest that base rim is horrible and sadly it will look like ass and take the eye away from the finished model no matter how good you paint them
>>
File deleted.
Progress on my Salamanders successors
Captain I rescued from the bargain bin
>>
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>>97694018
fucking gay ass phone
>>
>>97693597
Its pretty much mandatory when working with oils I've found to unify the finish. Opaques tend to dry matte or semi matte, transparents will dry satin or glossy, and anything in between for colors mixed together.
>>
>>97691406
fukkin mint

>>97693929
Well he's neat whatever he is
>>
>>97693938
Oof, anon get a 0.2 nozzle and tune to a 0.15 layer height ASAP
>>
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character pile keeps growing once again
im honored for the OP and this was the well mannered bit
>>
>>97693551
>light works differently when tiny
oh look it's the fake science again
>>
Am I fucking up by not sub-assembling Rubric Marines? I know TSons are hard to paint, is it that hard to get a good paint job done on them?
>>
>>97694510
some people even paint the rim first because sadly there is so much of it these days
imho that is double the work
i would paint heads separetely because backpack is on the way but other than that rock on
>>
>>97694510
never subassemble in army painting. Absolute momentum killer.
>>
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>>97694555
in anons defence imagine painting this while half of it was blocked by the backpack
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>>97694604
True, I should say, subassembling the backpacks, and even heads is okay. It's when you get into the shoulderpads and arms/guns that you shouldn't.
>>
>>97694673
why? it's not like you have to worry about having to clean up ugly joints on marines.
>>
>>97694845
Because I hate it.
>>
>>97694845
>>97694954
usually people only paint the heads separately and on top of some stick
only freshman hobbyists think about painting their pieces in the sprue because you have to cut them out eventually
they will learn why that doesnt work in due time
>>
>>97695006
who said anything about doing it on the sprue? if you can do the head separately glued to the end of a stick why not the arms? glue together anything that will require gap filling or sanding, paint everything, then do final assembly and touch ups if required.
>>
>>97695131
makes my zenithal harder.
>>
>>97694264
I prefer the reason "they're an inch tall and an arms length away, over exaggerating the contrast makes it easier to see details."
>>
>>97695184
False. And also we mostly paint for display and photos here anyway from what I can tell.
>>
>>97695205
One person's opinion.
>>
>>97695162
you can always do that when it's dry fit together and then pop it back apart to do the colors
>>
>>97695272
>>
>need to order cheap GW base layer paint for free shipping
>90% of base layers are sold out on their webstore
???
>>
>>97695362
You must be trying to buy the citadel paints. There are only warhammer paints now.
>>
>>97695371
Oh I forgot they are doing the rebranding. Well that explains it then
>>
>>97695205
lol
>>
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Base turned out nice I think.
Painting in the ghost-like bodysuit freehand is going to be tough but I am ready.
>>
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calling this Banshee done
>>
Thought I try an oil wash. Do I need to wait for the acrylic paint to cure before attempting it? How long should I wait for the oil wash to cure before varnishing?
>>
>>97695873
Did you drybrush the whole thing?
>>
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>>97694510
I only subassemled were the gun holding arms, everything else is more or less reachable. They're not hard per se, just time consuming with all the trim and other bullshit
>>
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Finished another Underworlds warband, 100% done with contrast paints/speedpaints.
Also, how do you guys deal with getting paint into small crevices? I know it's mostly skill issue but I find it annoying, especially with contrast-type paints, and I'm too lazy to sub assembly miniatures
>>
>>97696124
Do you have a guide for how you did those gems? I'm looking for exactly that look
>>
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>>97696383
Here anon I made one just for you.
>>
>>97687868
still primaris tho
>>
>>97688057
>classic look
>primaris
>>
>>97696593
>>97696596
fuck off lmao
>>
>>97696593
By that you mean it actually looks good, instead of the poorly proportioned manlets with fly-swat poses?
>>
>>97696116
Just the highlight originally but I got a little carried away with it.
>>
>>97696627
imo they all look like what i think call of duty looks like and what 10 year olds find cool
anon nailed the paintjob though
>>
>>97696656
Cawadoody looks nothing alike.
All of space marines is what 10 year olds find cool. Now with proportions that don't make them looks like monkeys.
>>
>>97696656
>>97696684
I'm sure 40kg would be delighted to discuss this with you for the millionth time, why don't you fuck off there
>>
>>97696691
Why don't you post some wip instead of joining in?
>>
>>97696476
Legend, tysm
>>
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>>97696476
Based tsanon, that's pretty much exactly how I do my eyelenses too save for a couple colours, I especially like finishing with a drop of fluo orange to really push the saturation and keep a redder finish overall
>>
>>97697109
Yeah I like painting gems/lenses that way, it's pretty easy and looks really nice
>fluo
Never bought any for some reason, are these worth using? I do have tesseract glow which supposedely has some fluo yellow in it(I think?) and I like it a lot
>>
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working on something less dusty
>>
>>97690165
Highlights are the best part buddy, looks great
>>
>>97697160
Unless you use them over white (where they really shine especially if part of an OSL effect) they really act as runny glazes and need a lot of building up. So they're nice as the last finishing touch/spot highlight when you want to push the vibrancy and don't need coverage.

Might worth mentioning my only experience with fluo paints is with AK ones.
>>
>>97696030
unironically what kind of stupid question is this? unless you are trying to do blending do you normally paint over things before it's dry?
>>
>>97697288
nta, but honestly I wait a full 24 hours after almost every brush stroke, just in case.
I save a little time by being able to do 1 brush stroke on different parts of the model before setting it down to cure, but only if the strokes are nowhere near each other. Can't risk accidentally disturbing the uncured paint.
>>
>>97697351
and i feel like im a slow painter
>>
>>97697284
NTA but I had similar problems with Vallejo fluorescent paints so I guess they are similar across brands. They are nice when applied over metallics, too.
>>
>>97697388
It's the same with flourescent craft paints as well.
>>
>>97697288
Funny story, I got a friend into the game once and taught him the basic basecoat, shade, highlight techniques and he came to one of our games asking "am I supposed to wait for the basecoat to dry before shading?" And pulled out a model. Now I have no idea what he actually did, but I think he applied a shade wash directly on top of fresh wet gold paint and it produced this crazy muted metallic texture. Absolutely retarded, have no idea how it worked, but it looked really cool. I kinda want to experiment to figure out what exactly he did desu
>>
>>97697490
this dude once told me that it took him 20 years to figure out its better to prime white if you are painting white
>>
>>97696030
>Do I need to wait for the acrylic paint to cure before attempting it?
Yes.
>How long should I wait for the oil wash to cure before varnishing?
You wait until its dry. Too many factors to tell you how long it will exactly take. Put some of your wash on a base or piece of scrap plastic, check that to see if its dry so you don't need to touch the model. Once its dry to the touch wait another day.

Oil washes work best with batch painting, you put the wash on one group and let it dry while you work on the next.
>>
>>97697521
but bro you need to prime black because painting the arms before you glue them on is too much trouble so you need the black for the areas you can't reach to paint. if you aren't making things harder for yourself in your attempt to be lazy you aren't a real hobbyist.
>>
>>97697521
And after 20 years he is still wrong, you prime grey if you are painting white.
>>
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>>97697521
>>97697565
>me priming in light grey
>>
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>>97697626
patricians choice
>>
>>97697618
Nah, you can prime with white just fine, you just have to make sure that you do the highlight with flou white.
>>
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>>97697626
>me priming my world eaters in purple
>>
>>97697705
that's a good idea though, dark purple makes nice shadows for red
>>
>>97697565
thas rite
>>97697618
grey primer was not really hot shit 20 years ago you know, hindsight is a bitch
>>
>>97697780
well you either prime grey or you prime black, anything else shows you to be a dumbass.
>>
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>>97697950
agreed
funny aside anon here >>97697565 was right, back then it was pretty common to start from black because there were no airbrushes nor contrast paints
dipping was the new thing and everyone was doing it
>>
>>97698014
>no contrast paints
Those were the days, now we're plagued by no talent hacks.
>>
>>97698032
you should spend less time online
>>
>>97698032
You don't like GW frontloading the detail into the physical geometry of the model making them awful to paint unless you're slopping on a full wash of contrast paint?
I don't understand, I thought that's what people wanted? The people who don't care about painting can now have maybe-but-arguably better looking models with no skill despite not caring about how their models look anyway, and the people who care about painting get to have their hobby made worse! It's Win-Win!
>>
>>97698075
>more detail is le bad
go paint your manlet space marines oji-chan
>>
>>97698088
It's not really a controversial opinion. Professional and award winning painters complain about this, things like making areas inaccessible, paint-before-assembly, physical details to catch contrast paints on things like capes embroidery making freehanding on them much more difficult and just less visually accurate unless filled or filed down.
>>
>>97698075
New models (often extremely busy and overdetailed) are actually harder to paint with contrast paints, you have no idea what you're talking about
>>
>>97698117
I will concede that they might not even look good with contrast paints. I don't use contrast paints so who knows. All I know is that GW obviously don't work with staff painters when designing models.
>>
>>97698032
>>97698075
when first airbrushed models started popping out in the forums people pretty unanimously hated them because it was seen as cheating, kinda like how everything new gets called that for a while until everyone starts doing it themselves
>>
>>97698174
It's still cheating.
>>
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>>97698125
I got into painting 2 years ago and I've always almost exclusively used contrast paints/speedpaints (sometimes I post my Underworlds warbands here) so I'm exactly the kind of bad/lazy hobbyist you were talking about before, and let me tell you the biggest issue for someone like me is the overwhelming amount of detail that I often come across while painting. But I agree with you, I think GW now mostly designs its miniatures so that they look good when professionally photographed and painted, but for regular, unskilled hobbyist as myself they can be a chore
>>
>>97698174
I don't mind airbrushing if it's just another tool, what bother me is when a faggot gets an airbrush and suddenly everything they do is 9000% OSL
>>
>>97698174
That's retarded though. The backlash to airbrush is just a poorfag cope from people who twist their bits off of the sprue. Nobody complaining about contrast paints is doing it because they want them but can't afford or don't want to buy them the way the airbrush complaining is.
>>
>>97698233
NTA but I own three 3D printers, if I wanted an airbrush, I could have one.
I use a brush exclusively, I don't even rattlecan primer.
>>
>>97698251
That's fine. I'm not saying everyone should airbrush against their will. I assume you aren't mad when other people have an airbrush.
>>
File deleted.
Found time to finish her. But I already have more miniatures to paint. Not counting the order with like 20+ more. Apparently, I will have a substantial backlog after all. Great, I won't need to buy any more in the foreseeable future.
>>
>>97698289
Only when they get one and seem to stop using a brush.
Me here >>97698220
Airbrushing is legitimate, unlike contrast paints.
>>
The urge to drybrush giant spiders
>>
>>97698295
What kind of sick monster are you?!
uncensor that shit
>>
>>97698295
I want the uncensored version
>>
>>97698308
>>97698310
Consider your wishes carefully
https://files.catbox.moe/fuw8p1.jpeg
>>
>>97698295
There’s a million coomer models and so few gay coomer models it’s not fair
>>
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>>97698355
got me good
>>
>>97698355
COCK
I should have known
>>
>>97698365
And no futa doesn’t count that
>>
>>97698174
I must admit that despite owning an airbrush, deep inside I'm still convinced that whenever I pick it instead of normal brush I take "easy way" instead of mastering the brush like I should. I'm sorry.
>>
>>97698401
Most high skill painters use brushes 90% of the time. You're probably not just taking an easy way out but limiting yourself.
>>
>>97698443
I know and feel awful about it.
>>
>>97698401
>Every time I brush my teeth with an electric toothbrush, I feel like I'm taking the easy way.
>Every time I hammer in a nail with a hammer, I feel like I'm taking the easy way.
>Every time I eat food, I feel like I'm taking the easy way.
>>
>>97698443
The only thing I'd probably use an airbrush for if I had one would be base coats. Just because base coating is a pain in the ass.
>>
>>97698468
>every time I hammer in a nail with a hammer I'm taking the easy way
True, in that you're limiting yourself to worse forms of carpentry
The toothbrush I don't think is a valid example. The valid example would be using mouthwash, which we all know is not a viable alternative to brushing your teeth, though can compliment it.
>Food example.
I don't even understand what the alternative here is supposed to be.
>>
>>97698510
>I don't even understand what the alternative here is supposed to be.
Eating non-food to challenge yourself to be a better digester.
>>
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How do you avoid your paint job looking like this on metal miniatures? All uneven and rough?
>>
>>97698649
That's just what the surface on most metal minis looks like. It adds character.
>>
>>97698649
that is not a bug its is a feature
>>
>>97697190
Nice camo and I like how you did the black
>>
>>97698661
>>97698681
I expected this kind of response. Its nice that you guys like it, but I don't. And having seen some painted metal minis with smooth surfaces, I assume there's some way to process them for that
>>
>>97698746
I think it's just the sculpt quality honestly. I have some metal ushabti and they're pretty smooth after painting.
>>
>>97698746
Some people will use a dremel with a wire wheel to smooth out metals but its honestly a gamble. Too much pressure and you're just as liable to cut a groove into the mini or twist off a delicate part.
>>
>>97698649
hey anon, heres a tip from 12 year old me back in 3rd ed.

just stop thinning your paints.

no im not joking, goop on the first layer, and it fills those little pits, then you can go over that with finer details.

also paint the gun red you philistine.
>>
>>97697288
From what I understand, dry doesn't mean cured and I want to make sure there won't be adverse effects like trapped moisture (apparently how I caused my varnish to fog up) or peeling the paint off.

>>97697556
Good to know. I should have also lurked more before asking because people discussed this earlier.
>>97683935
>>97683965
>>97684010
>>
I think we can accept that there are a lot of different tools and there are appropriate uses for all of them, but brush on primer users are literally subhuman. like they only have 4 toes or they have gills behind their ears.
>>
>>97698746
well nostalgia is one helluva drug
some people like that little grit and think it gives models personality while others like the new clean autocad look and appreciate the detail
>>
>>97698510
does a nail gun replace a hammer in every situation? no. are you an idiot if you are hammering hundreds of nails by hand when framing a house because you think using your nail gun is cheating? yes.
>>
>>97698852
I don't care what tools anyone uses as long as he's enjoying himself :)
>>
>>97698899
Yeah, I recommend using an airbrush for the parts an airbrush is good at. What they're not good at is a bunch of small details on miniature painting. By all means airbrush your primer coats, and base coats, and even some masked off coats and initial directional shading or OSL, but the reality is 90+% of the work on high tier minis is going to be done with a brush.
>>
>>97698797
thats not mine, just from someone's ebay. Wouldn't thick paint make it worse? I'm going to airbrush anyway, so I don't know if I should just airbrush extra coats of the base layer on

>>97698780
I'm going to try steel wool and hope that it doesn't hurt detail
>>
>>97698895
I'm stuck between liking it, but also liking clean smooth coats. Also I think photographs make it look more charming. I also found that old minis with really clean paintjobs with lots of effort are what I like the most
>>
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>>97698936
feel free to enjoy this 2nd edition chaos havoc in the middle of stripping because i forgot to take before and after pictures
it was too late
>>
>>97698852
Yeah? Well, fuck you too, buddy.
>>
>>97698852
Fuck you nigga I'll brush til I die.
>>
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I did an experiment the other day to prove that it doesn't matter what you use to prime

I brush primed a set of metal minis with India ink and then I dropped one and when I was gluing it back together a bunch of my primer rubbed off from my fingers
>>
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and I painted them, played some games with them. left them sitting around in my WIP drawer for about a year. I used these minis at last year's Adepticon

(I primed & painted them a long time ago, that part wasn't the experiment)
>>
>>97699810
that's a lovely pink
>>
>>97685088
I'm responsible for about 75% of our OPs. Some days, for whatever reason, I just can't put things together in time. At least I was able to get in a game of 10th Edition 40K last weekend!

New thread (with collage):
>>97699837
>>97699837
>>97699837
>>
I was curious what shit primer + no varnish + actual play would do to a mini. they held up pretty good so far so... I did this a few times

I'm getting filtered by these captchas
>>
>>97699799
>>97699810
we still dont want you here, faggot.
>>
>>97698852
Brush on is pretty great for going over missed spray spots, so you're dumb and stupid
>>
>>97698649
Perfection
>>
Is there a webstore similar to Greenstuffworld that 's domestic to the US? I've only ordered from there once when I first started but given the current climate I really don't want to be importing shit from Europe.
>>
>>97698468
>electric toothbrush
People actually use these? They feel like a placebo making you thinking it's actually doing anything different from regular brushing.

>>97698928
I was shocked to find out a painter I like doesn't even use an airbrush.
>>
>>97698929
anon, when i say thick paints i dont mean "i only did a LITTLE water on the brush between strokes" i mean "my little brother left the classic citidel pot open overnight, so i punched the un-wet brush through the crust and used the sludge raw onto my landraider"
it will dry and pull itself smooth (if you ignore the drips).
remember old metal models are from a time before concepts like glazing or layering existed outside golden demon.
pretend you're bob ross and slap that shit on with a palette.
>>
>>97696593
i have plenty of upscaled firstborn from tortuga for my blood angels. Generally i only like phobos for RG because it matches the aesthetic well. Not all primaris is bad though but generally i agree



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