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>>97962146

I primed the drones and drybrushed a few layers of pale colours. Next step will be painting the tentacles and pipes green.

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I made my first griffs way too big. They should be just a tiny bit bigger than the ridge runner.

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I like how the model is turning out but I think I royally fucked the face, any tips?

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>>97962384

>>97962384
>any tips?
yeah take a less blurry picture

>Finally out of Testors Dullcote
Guess I'll have to learn how to paint right without making everything super glossy.

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The fucked up genestealers are almost done. I still have to do the eyes and fix some details.

My magnets keep unglueing themselves from the bottoms of my bases and get stuck on my transport tins instead. Can I scratch the shit out of a magnet to give the glue something to sick to? Or does the magnet not like this?

>>97962760
Scratch the base, magnet and use a different kind of glue, like an epoxy or hot glue.

>>97962760
I just use green stuff now, that seems to hold it better than just super glue

>>97962331
Bigger looks better desu.

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Calling this one done

>>97962384
Paint coats seem rather uneven, what paints did you use?

>>97962984
I'd put some black in the holes of the flamethrower cover thing.

>>97962984
great work on the cream but i'm really not sure about the blue

>>97962984
I usually like the tanks you paint, but this particular ones turret seems so big somehow. Great paintjob regardless of course.

>done
What about the headlights?

>>97962997
ask him to place it with the rest of the army to see the "whole effect" - ive seen schemes that flip a switch when you see the whole army together, usually tyanids

>>97962760
Use stronger glue. I wouldn't scratch the magnet.

>>97963000
>this particular ones turret seems so big somehow

NTA but it looks like a nfeyma sculpt. The one Russ analogue has some surprising small guns for non-ballistic types like plasma.

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>>97962990
>>97962997
>>97963000
>>97963016
I did give the cover a black pin wash. Apparently it wasn't strong enough to show on a zoomed in photo. With the naked eye it looks fine.

The head and tail lights are painted, it just isn't captured in the photos because of the angle.

It is a nfeyma sculpt. I too was skeptical at first regarding its size but then I took a look at my Sherman Firefly and thought, it might just work as well. That's why I went with it. I personally like it.

pic is some of the rest of the army in action.

>>97962760
instead of gluing the magnet directly, glue a piece of metal to the base instead (thin sheet metal cut to size works well). Also keeps the bases to stick together.

Fellas I'm in need of your wisdom.
I have a RedGrass wet palette v2.
How the thing works, and the paper is great, no issues about that.
But I wonder, how do you guys store and keep it between uses?

When Im done for the day I clean the membrane, give the whole thing a wash with water, drain all the water (but keeping the sponge wet), and then keep it almost closed.
However my issue is the following: it tends to develop mold. A lot of mold. So I wash it with bleach and soap often, but still.
Another option is to leave it wide open between uses, but then the sponge dries completely and wrinkles, and the paper membrane wrinkles as well, making it unusable.

So, whats the approach here? How do you guys deal with it? how do you store it? Do you keep it open? Fully closed? Do you have problems with mold?

>>97963052
I put it in the fridge without even draining water from the sponge and never had any issues with mold

>>97963052
No clue about RedGrass specifically, but normal mode of operation with regular wet palette is to either put it into the fridge as is, with lid closed (in case you'll be painting tomorrow or in a couple of days), or discard the paper, clean the pad, and then let the pad dry outside of the case.

>>97963016
>NTA but it looks like a nfeyma sculpt.

I know it is, and usually those look great. It just that this one in particulars turret looks kinda bad to me. I think its because it sits quite high, while also has some overhang.

>>97963042
>I personally like it.
Thats the main thing, and i'm sure it will look good on the table next to the other vehicles.

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>>97963000
>turret seems so big somehow
I'm pretty sure it's a nod to KV-2. Nfeyma's sculpts are so awesome because he often implements real life design aspects.

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>>97963074
That turret has nothing to do with a KV2, and his recreation of the KV2 is pic related, which is a totally different vehicle.

>>97963081
Ah, very cool. Didn't know that.

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>>97963085
look up french WW2 designs in World of Tanks(they have an easier database to view) and your turret will look very french to you, especially the ARL44 around tier 5 range (heavies)

I was tired of cutting parts out with a knife, so I bought a pair of cheap chinese plastic cutters. Despite the blades being clearly misaligned the test cuts on the spruce seem to be somewhat clean. Do I risk it or should I get better ones? (recommend some if so)

>>97963097
French stuff is one of his biggest influences i think. He even did a "grim dark" version of the AMX13 light tank.

Besides his generally good understanding on how tanks should look like, so they feel "real" the french influence is why his stuff always looks kinda unique, because most others go for the obvious german, russian or american designs, or they stick super close to what GW does.

>>97962985
Vajello, I was halfway through the second coat before I had to stop, I have to finish today when I get back from work

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Reposting my updated rune test from last night. Ordered some Vallejo fluo green to test on this as well.
Thoughts? It looks a lot better in person than in this picture. Very hard to photograph this stuff considering the gold's reflections.

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>>97963167
look up a youtube tutorial on plasma glow, it has to do with darker parts where there would be highlights to make it pop
>plus a airbrush to get a glow effect being illuminated near it

How long should I let primer dry before painting?

>>97963116
Tamiya is a golden standard, imo. Fairly cheap, built like a tank, will love you a long time. If you wanna go fancier, DSPIAE is a good choice. Godhand are considers THE best ones, but Nipponese thousands times folded steel is silly expensive.

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>>97963196
Well, I've done glows before (picrel), but I'm running into trouble with this specific model due to a number of reasons. I'm mostly going for just bright runes instead of a full glow now, as someone else pointed out that green on gold isn't a great place for a full-glow. And I unfortunately don't want to change the color of the golden bull or the green glow, since they're both tied into my scheme.
And also unfortunately, I can't get the level of detail I need for these runes with an airbrush. I've been able to do some precise work with it but when I tried on this guy it was taking too much color away from the gold (See:>>97958670).

Anyway, as for your mention of darker parts, are you suggesting I take a slightly darker green and do a fine highlight around the edges of the rune?

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>>97962191
These guys are so weird looking (positive), what are they meant to be?

>>97962384
lmfao

>>97962513
Very cool, I think some of the blue bits could be a lil more saturated? Really digging the basing.

>>97962984
The weathering is so good, that weld line is cool, I feel like the lil teal windows up at the top could use a tiiiiny bit of jeweling? They don't match the level of detail on the rest of the mini.

>>97963042
picrel

>>97963167
I would like to see a spinny of this when it's done. Metallics look best with a lil motion imo.

>>97963249
go with neon paints with random dark spots in the dead center to give context how deep the crevaces are

>>97962513
>>97962984
Looking good

>>97963167
It's getting somewhere. If I were you, I'd probably push the middle of the glow to a much brighter value, almost white, and use that bright green as the closest layer of the osl, then dim that. But the again since you said you don't care for a full glow >>97963249 so you could leave it as it is since at least it does convey some contrast on the runes. Green over gold might be tricky to pull off sure, but at least you have a very warm and orangey gold there so it isn't impossible.

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another round of silly little ships
painting 2 full armies in one week feels pretty badass

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>>97963116
I use these, they are €12,- orso and only go kaput when I forget I cannot cut steel wire and such with them. /Gpg shits on them because muh Godhands/Chang does it cheaper bit I have been using them for years.
>>97963226
Those standard Tamiya plastic cutters are rough and bulky af, I do not like those at all.

>nuchorfs

>>97963336
>>/aosg/

>>97963310
Love em! BFG is such a great game.

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>>97963304
>>97963277
>>97963253
Thanks guys. I'll try these out when I get back to my desk. I'm getting so sick of repainting these runes...
But it'll be worth it if the end result looks good.

>>97962389
>>97962384
It'll take practice but you gotta work on brush control, only getting the paint where you want it to be. Sometimes your paint might be too thin, or you might have too much of it on the brush, and it'll go into places that you don't want. When you load up your brush, wipe some of that excess paint off on a tissue or something.

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>>97963116
>recommend some if so
Ruitool is good and fairly inexpensive.

>>97963564
>Ruitool
How about any set of craftsman/etc... flush sidecutters from the local hardware store?
Buying hobby specific cutters is like buying citadel brushes, might be decent but the price is fucking stupid.

>>97963671
literally this.

>>97963671
A lot of time hardware store cutters are to bulky for hobby use.
>Craftsman
Still Chang crap.

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I've been seeing a bunch of these glow in the dark effects from nip warhammer twitter lately and want to give it a try, anyone have any tips on what to use?

>>97963671
>Buying hobby specific cutters is like buying citadel brushes
We've been through this a few times. Stop talking stupid, anon.

>>97963745
this looks like uv reactive paint and they're pointing a blacklight at it
too bright to be regular glow-in-the-dark stuff

>>97963818
>a few times
try a dozen at least

>>97963671
single bladed nippers are actually worth it though
for double blade, defo just buy hardware store nippers

>>97963820
Huh, any recommendations for UV paint then?

>>97963842
I know gsw makes some. I wouldn't recommend using it though, this kind of thing is only good for social media posts.

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>>97963253

They're supposed to be sci-fi aliens. In game terms (Xenos rampant) they'd be Lesser Xenomorphs with ranged weapons, short range, engulfing and stabilized weaponry. Ever since I saw the image of Typhon in those old collectible monster cards from the late nineties-early '00s I've been fascinated by a creature that has a humanoid upper body and a lower body made from snakes or tentacles.

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Gonna try and finish the monolith today.

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>doing a smol commission for a friend
>put some effort into the cloth, trying a bunch of new stuff for the first time
>happy with it, show him the progress
>"yea that's cool bro but make sure she's all covered in blood, like back here where it's all cloth it should just be super duper bloody, blood is super cool!"
mfw

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>>97963310
Those look lovely anon, very nicely done.
I have still not finished the Cataclysm prints, nor finished the Homeworld rules I started like a decade ago.

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Gonna do this guy’s pupils tonight but I want to add eyebrows to him. Gw sculpts brows a bit oddly, I guess a bit exaggerated to show the expression well, but I’m wondering where I’d actually place the lines. Any ideas?

>5-10 hours for a single model
i'm never going to finish my army

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>>97964264
I need to find some motivation to finish my models too.

>>97963722
>A lot of time hardware store cutters are to bulky for hobby use

Then pick a fucking small one. What the fuck? A good hardware store has several sizes, because guess what: craftsmen need smaller ones for certain tasks too. Its not like this is an obscure and very special tool. Its a small wire cutter to cut thin copper wire. Electricians use those every single day.

>>97964313
Just think of how good they'll look in a postage stamp sized picture tucked in the corner of the OP collage

>posting models in WIP
leddit is better for tips and critique, and for farming validation

>>97964493
No, no it is not.

>>97964493
As somebody who posts their models to leddit, no it isn't.

>>97964493
can you fuck off already, you subhuman cretin

>>97964336
My previous Faller nippers lasted almost a decade before I notched them. Then I went to my local friendly modelling store and got a new pair, that €12,- won't bankrupt me and a small sidecutter at the hardware is easily as expensive if not more and will notch just as hard.
Source: I also do some jewelry work on the side and there is a reason I have special cutters for that.

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>>97964490
Nah.
I should do it for me and me alone.

>Get model SOOOO close to being finished
>start thinking:
>"hmmm, I should just do a quick little palette cleanser mini that won't take long"
Why am I like this?! Just finish the fucking mini I'm already working on omg.

>>97964490
I have not been here in a long time, does the collage shows finished models from the previous thread or how does it work?

>>97964580
It shows most of the pics posted in the previous thread, as selected by baker-san. I'm personally not a fan of collages, but anons seem to like it.

>>97964619
I think it's supposed to encourage anons to post more of their work, even if just by a little bit.

>>97964653
I don't think it really achieved that. I would rather see one (2, 3, 4 max) exceptional models from past thread. Anons shouldn't need "encouragement" to anything, it's not a job, it's a hobby. You either enjoy it or don't.

>>97964543
What kind of goalpost shift is this?

>>97964673
ok

>>97964619
I see, I am still spending most of my free time working on my car but I have an mini painting itch for a while now so I will be back in the trenches in a bit. We'll see if OP seems my stuff worthy for the collage then.

well, i tried to get an H&S Evo, but someone else did a return scam on amazon and I ended up with an empty box. Is Iwata Eclipse basically the same thing? A good alternative?

>>97964723
Not even meant like that. I am just saying that I like my current nippers, for how I use them they are no diverent from hardware store ones and they are not even crazy expensive. If you take care of your tools they will last if they are some decent quality to begin with. I was gifted a pair of Godhands and I do not even really like them and paying €80,- for some plastic cutters is stupid but some people swear by them.

>>97964763
It's not a same thing. I would say Evolution (2024 CR Plus version) is a better brush for minis, since you can swap nozzles and it has a visible needle tip. There are more reasons, but otherwise yeah, Eclipse is a great brush.
Why not buy directly from HS?

>>97964820
>Why not buy directly from HS?
the seller was H&S on amazon and I got free overnight shipping.

>>97964839
Huh, I always got stuff from their website. That said, if you don't mind the wait, I would go with Evolution (CR Plus, 2024).

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Finished the next bootleg Escher. The scan on this one was pretty soft especially around the mouth. This one was after having to strip the bottom half of the face after too many failed attempts at working around it.

>>97964876
i already got scammed once by H&S, i'm not buying from them again.

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>>97964890

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Working on a mechanic grot with some oil squigs

>>97964893
Ask for a refund? Or do you believe that someone in this 110-year-old company with a pretty much flawless record scammed you? Or is it more likely it was some jeet in Amazon instead. Why people still use that dogshit service is beyond me.
Besides, HS is owned by Iwata. You are, in practice, buying from the same company.

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>>97964920
damn phone posting.

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>>97963116
knipex 72 02 125

>>97963167
like I said before it's never going to look super bright because of low contrast with the gold. I haven't seen that model in real life so I don't know if it would be possible, but maybe you could do the opposite of
>>97963277
and paint the edges of the indentations black and have the green only on the bottom so it would look like a bright glow leaking out from dark crevices.

>>97963842
I haven't tried it myself but I've heard from other people that europium based paint is better than other glow in the dark paints

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Carcharadons Command

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Anyone got some experience with this "fleximold" stuff? All I see on YT are advertising videos so I wanted to know if somebody here tried it before and can share some "do and don't" or what kind of material can be used. Thanks in advance.

>>97965665
just get oyumaru, it's probably the exact same stuff but much cheaper
it works well, just stick in boiling water for a minute then form around whatever you want a mold of, stick in freezer for a few minutes till it's stiff and pull thing out of the rubber

>>97965694
I was using Blue Stuff before, I was thinking about this one instead because I need to try casting rather small elements that would benefit from liquid mold material. At the same time, due to lacking active ventilation, I cannot use silicon + resins (plus lack pressure chamber for degassing).

>>97964736
>We'll see if OP seems my stuff worthy for the collage then.
I generally include at least one picture of almost everything from the thread that demonstrates what we've been working on or have completed. If it looks like I excluded a picture it's likely:

-- A meme or reaction image that doesn't have one of our models or Rin from Yuru Camp in it
-- An animated GIF or WEBM that doesn't translate well to a non-moving image format
-- Multiple pictures of the same model where it's hard to tell what's been done, so they look like duplicates
-- Pictures from one anon that have been marked up by another anon, but show essentially the same thing
-- Pictures that are of models not painted by us (GW webstore shots, past Golden Demon winners, etc.)

One of our anons even came up with a script that makes it really easy for me to build a collage in my browser.

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Alright, I think I'm happy with this. Turns out Vallejo fluo green is just as good as I've heard everyone say it is.
Basically all I'm doing is using some of the fluo green to make a bright highlight around the rune, and afterwards I took my airbrush and did a few sprays of it around the lit area. It's translucent enough to keep the gold color and bright enough to look glowing. Most I'll do after this is brighten up the inside with a lighter yellow.

Thanks for all the advice anons. Turns out I truly was just using the wrong paints for this job. Gonna stop spamming this stupid thing now and get it done.

>>97965694
this is nothing like oyumaru, this becomes fully liquid and you pour it like silicone, i have been wanting an anon review for a while too, i think someone here bought it or was going to

>>97965885
This is a definite improvement. Looks very nice, anon.

>>97965665
I have a hard time imagining something like this having similar pouring properties to silicone. That doesn't mean it's bad and can probably be useful for rough castings that are somewhere in between oyumaru and silicone. I don't know what you'd be casting with in that case though. The rubber part of the silicone+resin isn't really the part where you need the PPE, it's mostly the resin. Same with the vacuum chamber and pressure chambers. Vacuum stuff (the rubber part) is safe and can be relatively inexpensive, it's the pressure part where you want to be extra safe and requires some proper gear.

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A 3d print to add to the janky metal veterans.

>>97965665
What was wrong with bluestuff?

>>97966370
GSW advertise using their UV resin but I worked with that before and it's VERY viscous, would be extremely hard to get rid of air bubbles and would probably require using syringe to push it. There is also acrylic resin (in form of powder, to be mixed with water) but no idea of it wouldn't stick or somehow "leak" since there is also warning about not using water-based solutions with it.

>>97966454
Nothing, it's just that I got to the point where I cannot get better results than simple shapes or shallow surface details - each and every single copy I get (with Milliput or mix of that with GS) ends up slightly larger than original, despite only using enough to fill each half of the mold. There are also problems with air gaps in BS molds for some parts.

Yes, I'm aware that silicone + resin is next step in quality but I'm not having workshop for that kind of stuff, just my own desk in my own room where I sleep, etc.

>>97966604
i mean, even with that fleximold stuff you need resin to fill it later

>>97966604
UV might work, but only for basic open pour molds for flat things (Again, sort of like a . Like you're not going to manage an enclosed mold with that. no idea about the acrylic resin though.
UV resin also has fumes to worry about, a lot of people just don't. You could always get non-uv cure epoxy resin Still, fumes again, but it will at least cure regardless of the access of UV light.

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So.. very very early WIP on my biggest ever project. The underhive display shelf. First time getting the structure of it all together and its nice finally seeing the vision from my head becoming real.
>CSM dude for scale

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>>97966653
>>97966610
Meh, looks like I'm screwed. I'm trying to make copies of these parts and keep getting them wrong with BS and still don't understand why I keep getting them larger than originals. And there is also issue with copies breaking apart when I try to drill those connections, even with small step increase of drill size.

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>>97963745
>>97963842
I follow that guy, he uses Vallejo fluorescents and they're black light paint not glow in the dark.

>>97966763
Photo trickery really needs to be done away with.

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>>97966763

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>>97966770
No photo trickery here, black light stuff looks like this in person too, you just need a strong black light and the right paint.

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>>97966763
This is the same mini with/without black light

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I took the arms off of him to prime them separately, and then ran out of black primer so this project is on a mild hiatus until I can get more. Kind of sick right now so it's gonna be a minute.

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>>97966770
Lots of Japanese gunpla people using fluorescents lately too

>>97966798
>>97966777
Black light counts as photo trickery.
If it doesn't look that way on a plain shelf at adepticon (or other conventions/competitions) it is photo trickery.

>>97966777
Damn that looks rad as fuck.

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Please clap

>>97966913
NOW FINISH THEM ASSHOLE.

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>>97966908
I've been wanting to try it out myself but I don't have a black light and apparently the type you use matters too

Also I play nids so I've no idea what I'd use fluorescents on besides the eyes, and investing in fluorescents and black light just to make eyes glow seems lame. Maybe a neurotyrant with a glowing brain, but I don't want a neurotyrant

>>97966781
I bet you could hide some black light LEDs and a battery in the model there

>>97967059
I bet somebody could just paint it really nicely without a bunch of extra bullshit.

>>97967086
Looks fine without black light too so maybe you're just retarded

>>97967115
It looks like he spray painted it black, then badly spray painted it with a light green zenithal, and then put metallics and UV light on with thhe largest, shittiest brush he could find.

>>97967124
>noooo he's not using gw approved sloptuber techniques so it's shit

>>97967124
The green is obviously drybrushed, sounds like you have no idea what you're talking about.

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Went to the club to pick up my vicitrix foot and mounted knights for a full tilt/greathelm tournament combo, a4 frame and a sprue of Soviets and ended up included in a gift circle of guys who buy eachother alternate games.

/blog

>>97967168
all I know is it looks splotchy and dusty as shit. I don't care how he achieved it.

>he's STILL trying to start shit

I just think gimmicky paintjobs are lame

>>97966913
I clapped
>>97967333
just ignore the schizo and post wips and models

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>>97966913

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Working on some freebooterz, trying to decide if I want one scheme for them or paint each individually

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Is the primer here too thick?

Also, I just used my airbrush for the first time (h&s evolution) and paint was coming out even when I was just pressing down the trigger and not pulling it back. What should I do? This happened even when I just put water in it before I tried any paints, so I don’t think it’s a paint issue.

>>97967565
The needle might not be all the way forward, you may have to loosen the collet, push it forward, retighten.

Also primer looks fine to me.

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>>97967565

>>97967565
>and paint was coming out even when I was just pressing down the trigger
Is the tip properly screwed? This happens when it’s not, or if there is something wrong with the O-rings. But I’m 80% sure that your airbrush doesn’t have O-rings by the tip.
Basically some negative pressure is escaping and making its way to the paint cup. Could be a manufacturing defect as well, but if the evolution is anything like the ultra in terms of design, I find it pretty unlikely.

Painting death guard makes me want to kill myself. Send help.
Doing the fleshy and organic bits is so damn annoying. The chaos trim is painless by comparison.

>>97967578
>>97967604
I think the needle was just seated incorrectly. I disassembled and reassembled it and it works fine now.

Going to wait until tomorrow to start painting this guy so the primer is cured

Hey lads!
I have some not!Commissar STLs and I plan to customize one as a Lord Commissar so a greenstuff fur coat is needed.
I plan to follow these tutorials for the job:
https://scarhandpainting.com/tutorial-sculpting-fur/
https://psychosispc-themadhouseworkshop.blogspot.com/2011/12/green-stuff-cloth-tutorial-space.html

If I mess up and have to paint strip will mixed greenstuff dissolve in 99 percent isopropyl alcohol?
I'm not entirely sure if AI answers are accurate.

If not greenstuff how's Miliput for the job and what are some differences between greenstuff and miliput sculpting I should be wary of?

>>97967735
>STL
why not digitally sculpt the fur?

>>97967741
>why not digitally sculpt the fur?
I can't wrangle blender to my will and greenstuffing sounds like a bit of fun and to me this hobby is about tearing myself away from the screen too.

>>97967746
Based

is it normal to use blender for 3d print models and not something like fusion or solidworks?

>>97962384
Your plastic sword seems bent as well

>>97967774
I exclusively use meshmixer.

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>blending
use case?

>>97967774
Solidworks and Fusion are parametric, Blender is mesh based. Typically, you want parametric for engineering and functional parts, and mesh modeling for digital art.

>>97967806
based same

>>97967550
Different as you think looks cool but keep one universal accent color.

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Do you base all the models in one army the same way?

One single base color/scheme doesn't look good on all my units.

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>>97967124
keep seething

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Each time I get everything set up to give the hobby a try again, I layer paints so slowly that just doing the basecoat for one takes forever, and yet it always comes out looking chunky like this. Some of this here on the inner leg is problems with model prep, but otherwise I actually don't know otherwise why it looks so bad. Got the saturation in this base coat here, and want to highlight but am scared it will look even worse. Willing to grind through to get better but just want to understand why I have this issue.

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>not my picture
I really like the dramatic contrast with shadows. Original guy said its all/mainly drybrush.
I want to recreate it on marines, but my best attempts are just by carefully basecoating and trying to avoid recesses.
I don't have any small beauty blender eggs, would they help?

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>>97968121
I tried to get the above effect with a brush on these models

>>97968111
This looks like a metal model, so I'm tempted to say those are imperfections in the metal's surface.
Also, don't worry about perfectly smooth base coats. You'll keep building up colours over it, no need to do it perfectly. Likewise, I feel like you're laser focusing on the details rather than your whole piece. Keep working and get a bigger picture of where you're at, not just in part of the mini but overall, only then you can actually start looking at specific parts that aren't working.
Don't get stuck at the first step, dude.
Chin up and keep it up!

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>>97968126
this is my most recent try, I feel like I lose the 3d effect once I paint other parts of the model

>>97968121
Yeah it looks like it's stippled on with an Artis Opus type drybrush. Carefully layering is the opposite.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GWnG3juMHp4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SP4wGSlJFEs

>>97968176
Well, for starters, you seem to be applying your light green over a base of a darker green rather than the tank's pure black, which is going to give you considerably less contrast.
Secondly, I'd argue the sponge is going to be necessary, or at least a similar tool, as that's what will give you those soft fuzzy edges and islands of unpainted black. Your marine looks conventionally layered and has little separation of values (lights and shadows). Keep in mind that you're also working on a smaller piece, with less flat surfaces, so the effect is going to look necessarily different on either.

>>97968192
I've tried stippling but maybe I didn't understand the technique. I used an oval-shaped makeup brush with very short bristles,1-2mm. My results had next to no shadows
The guy's method:
>$1 wet n wild brush from target, little dab of paint on it, brush most of it off on a piece of cardboard or something, then hit your edges and watch the highlights appear
>>97968286
You are correct, I tried the warpstone glow directly onto my black primer but I had terrible coverage. I'll try the next mini again without the dark green

>>97965885
Looks sexy.

>>97968323
>I had terrible coverage
This is why you're gonna need the sponges, they provide better coverage via layering without breaking the effect. You won't be getting the effect with a brush.

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>>97962513
Varnishing is next.

>>97968501
I think you mean clear coating.

Theres exactly 2 decently painted minis in this thread so far, the rest is dogshit.

>>97968506
I hope I'm one of them!
I haven't posted any minis in this thread :(

>>97966441
cool nice paint job

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>>97968505
Sure, the matt or gloss transparent bullshit that I will apply, whichever the English term is.

>>97968628
Who is Matt?

>he paints shadows on a 3d object
ISHYGDDT

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>>97968631
Someone who doesn't gloss over things.
Also a friend of Joe.

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>>97966954
I really need to do updated pictures of my carnifexes, but here's an old WIP of experimenting with paint schemes. I just used a tiny black light torch that I use for resin touch ups, but the effect can still be seen with lights on too. Fluorescent paint with crackle on top was a fun effect for the carapace, but I wasn't a big fan of the plasma glows

Just a rant post, but man subassemblies fuck up my momentum so much. If I could just build a mini and let it sit on a shelf until I got around to it that would be one thing, but building a mini and needing to keep all it's parts together, or worse yet, building only some of the parts is so, SO much worse than just having a mini, even though sometimes subassemblies are necessary.

>>97968685
>sometimes subassemblies are necessary
Unless youre painting for a competition, no they are not.

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Can't believe I slept on this Vallejo plastic putty for so long. I bought it years ago in a dropper bottle and it was pretty bad, however, the tibe with a thin nozzle is a complete gamechanger. So much better for filling gaps.

>>97968763
I do also like it, but it drying as quick as it does is such a pain in the ass. I've moved on to just using greenstuff because at least there is time to work it. I still use the putty for some things though I guess.

>>97968822
I just have a damp brush on hand when working with it to clean up if you overspill. Greenstuff is kinda incovenient for me, and doesn't sand well. Brownstuff isn't the worst if you want a gapfiller though.

>2026
>not using milliput (is sandable, soluble with water/iso)
its like you hate yourselves for some reason

I'm not gonna waste miliput on gap filling non-metal miniatures.
It's my go-to basing material.

>>97968841
Are there much practical differences between the colored variants? The only stuff I can find locally now is mostly the one for whiteware.

>>97968831
try tamiya quick type, cures faster than gs is stickier and dries hard like milliput so you can sand it just fine

>>97968864
the white is supposed to be finer, wich makes no difference for our purposes, the other colors are just colors

>>97968873
I was thinking about getting it to replace my greenstuff. I've seen some great sculpting done by anons using it.

>>97968685
I don't really get the complaint. is keeping your unfinished parts in a box or even just wrapping them in a paper towel and throwing them in a ziploc bag such a big deal? I think people put too much value in the instant gratification of seeing their toy assembled.

>>97968896
Both have their uses. Greenstuff is more elastic and tough, milliput is brittle but easier to manipulate. You can also mix them, to get a bit of both.

>>97968911
I think people put too much value on painting armpits that no one will ever see.

Different kind of question - is silicone mold soft enough to deform when filled with Milliput?

>>97969156
silicon molds are softer than bluestuff yes

>>97969156
Yes, you want something pourable to cast using silicone molds.

>>97969184
Darn. So my only option is to continue to figure out how to properly cast with BS/GS but chances are I never will. Fug.

So, is there a consensus on what the best acrylic paints are currently?
AP?
AK?
Citadel?
Vallejo?
Ionic/Atom?
P3?

>>97969389
I use mostly AK and TTC and I'm happy with both

>>97969389
>best
Gotta throw the /p/ meme - "the one you have with you", in this case "the one available to you". Each have some ups and downs (like AP dissolving under white spirit while other paints do not or Vallejo new formula behaving odd compared to old one) but ultimately all are usable. AK is most "balanced" aka each shades behave similarly good but it doesn't mean that it's "the best" - for me they might be but for someone else, not so much.

>>97969411
If only TTC would be cheaper - they really do behave nicely and Dragons Gold is THE best gold I worked with so far but damn they are costly.

>>97969415
I think the new vallejo Imperial Gold (from the TMM range) is the best gold paint available

>>97969421
Is there a sheet somewhere about how this new metallic range look IRL? I think they are missing in Stahly one.

>>97969389
>the best acrylic paints are currently?
No such thing. Most of the brands are alright, and will do a good job. That said, I prefer AK, because I think their paints are the most consistent across the board. Not necessarily "the best", but I know that if buy AK it won't fuck me over and it will do the job as advertised. The only thing I don't particularly like are AK metallics - not because they would be bad, but because Vallejo makes a lot better ones. From the other side of the spectrum is AP and their immense faggotry. Fuck them.

Also, regarding Citadel; if they are not the ONLY choice you have, I see virtually no reason to buy them. Overpriced as fuck, retarded pots, fairly limited selection compared to other brands.

>>97969426
idk but this is all i found
https://youtu.be/fFoqu_AOSAg

>>97969435
at about 14:08 you can see the whole thing

>>97969426
>I think they are missing in Stahly one.
It's by the design. He decided to be a fag and made a separate swatch with Vallejo TMM range that you have to buy even if you bought the complete one.
t. Stahly swatch leaker

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>>97969435
>>97969437
He made a color swatch.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1QK0L3CXNtfuZFabmBUSBADX7gSz-8_jT
And it is a pretty fancy looking gold, yeah.

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>>97969443
>t. Stahly swatch leaker
much love, anon

Are you guys telling me that I could make a colour comparison chart and people would actually pay me for it if it was good?

>>97969389
Each brand has good and bad paints. Sticking to a brand is never optimal. Citadel is twice the price with no increase in quality though, not to mention the shitty pots, so they're best avoided.

>>97969518
>not to mention the shitty pots
Same with proacryl. Shitty in a different way obviously but you get the point. no reason to ever buy it over AK.

>>97969526
Sure, I've never used them.

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Kill team ready for action

>>97969415
>>97969421
Throwing in my two cents about golds- gsw gold metal pigments produce the best gold I've tried so far for my personal taste, but it obviously require a few extra steps.

>>97969426
They apply nicely but I found some have a weird glittery property, and not in a good way- although it is manageable. The one I like the most is aged metal, for the desaturated, grim gold look I like. Then again I personally own only 2 iterations of them.

>>97969518
I unironically like GW whites despite the entire internet saying they're the worst. I did have to transfer them to bottles though, since they clog much more than other pigments.

>>97969526
What is your experience with proacryl? I was tempted to try some of their colours eventually, so far I haven't bought any because they're not exactly easy to get in Europe

>>97969603
>gsw gold metal pigments produce the best gold I've tried so far for
Ive seen this same comment quite a few times and I wonder, exactly how come GSW doesnt have the best gold paint? Seems like they should be able to mix their own pigment with whatever medium and produce this 'really nice gold paint'
Something doesnt add up here.

>>97968896
If you want it for sculpting then I don't recommend the ultrafine white milliput, it's far too soft compared to greenstuff

>>97969603
>What is your experience with proacryl?
Nta, but while they are not bad, they feel kinda redundant. No reason to get PA over Vallejo or AK. Especially since the pots they use are nearly as bad as Citadel.
t. another eurofag

>>97968952
>>97969620
I'm talking about Tamiya Quick Type, not Miliput.

>>97969612
I'm honestly not sure about that either, I think I read someone tried to make the mix and store it themselves in a bottle so they wouldn't have to do it on the spot every time but the paint dried up badly or something

maybe I could try myself eventually, and report back

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>>97964228
Best idea I have is to draw on your picture to help you decide. Picrel would be my vote >;3

>>97969632
I see, thanks. Despite already owning an already worrying amount of reds I was tempted by their pyrrole red, the pure white and maybe their metallics

>>97969603
Good news, monument hobbies should be in the near future opening offices for distribution in france which should make it easier to get at least in the EU. They may already be available even, that was a while ago now and the eu website is up at least.

>>97969643
Oh, that's nice

>>97969643
That's cool, also I just checked and apparently the site I usual buy stuff from has them too, although half of them are out of stock (including the red and white I was interested in)

>>97969635
Holy shit, that was me. But I assumed that it was I who made some mistake - still, mixed Vallejo Metallics (those 30ml ones) Gold and Copper with GSW gold pigment, poured into those plastic dropper bottles with screwed lid and next day it was all dried up inside.

Again, I don't write out that I made something wrong and it shouldn't behave that way.

>>97969453
Is this

>White primer
>Base
>Highlight

And then the matching washes?

Part of me wants to put out a swatch of every hobby paint on the market for free just to fuck over that guy's side hustle.

>>97969526
>>97969603
>ProAcryl
I like their paints but wtf is with that extra bit of paint being forced out every time I close the bottle

>>97969695
almost
>white
>highlight
>base
and then the wash on the right side all over them

>>97969680
I might try myself out of curiosity. Will try something similar to what you did but add a generous amount of vallejo metallic gloss medium, then

Will be nice to have something to do other than scraping and sanding bladeguard shields these days

>>97969389
For brush blending I prefer AP Fanatics. They're thicker and loaded with white pigment for opacity, so less streaky with minimal effort than other mainstream brands. Won't go through an airbrush though, and the range is missing a lot of important darker shades. AK is cheaper (for me), thinner, and dries matt which can have advantages, but I don't like painting anything more complex than slow, gradual layers with them.

Pro Acryl white. Scale 75 metallics unless you want to pay the money for Vallejo metal colour silvers. Every brand has a few great unique colours.

>>97969716
Monument tax.

Stupid question but - do I actually have to wait overnight to take out epoxy putty out of blue stuff? Dspiae one have listed 6 hours for curing time but maybe it's too short.

>>97970232
>glue your shit
Leave it overnight
>prime your shit
Leave it overnight
>paint your shit
Leave it over night
>use epoxy
Guess how long you should leave it

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How can I glaze metallic paint? I only added a little water, and it turned into watery flakes

>>97970288
Do the opposite. Base coat in the solid metallic and glaze over it with the other colors.

>>97970288
You can't exactly glaze metallics unfortunately. Shade them wish washes/glazes/contrasts and highlight by layering a brighter metallic paint.

>>97970294
Glaze with normal paint?

>>97970310
It depends on what you're trying to do. I assumed you were trying to do like the bt anon looking tmm that's black/metal gradient.

I can use plastic cement when doing subassembly parts, right? I don't need to use superglue?

>>97970325
Yeah? why would you need to use one or the other?

>>97970232
>>97970271
I was once told that you can also leave it for an afternoon, provided that you take a nap. /joke

>>97970339
I just don't want to mess up the paint when gluing the parts together.

>>97970391
Oooh, I see what you mean. Idk, some people might whine but I've never had an issue either way.