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File: big_WIP_collage_14AUG2026.jpg (7.72 MB, 4154x9000)
7.72 MB JPG
Work in Progress, TGIF Edition

>Full-size version of today's collage
https://mega.nz/file/fExi3DwL#AfLhqEiAnG6ORKuvlmCa5V-_a7Dg6Nuxd4p0GjZ6-gs

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin:
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>Everybody wants a new romance!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dsgBpsNPQ50

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

Previous threads:
>>98493914
>>98482298
>>98465121
>>
>>98503020
These guys would actually be perfect for a diorama, I might need to get an RSV for myself to get my grubby mitts on a couple of them.
>>
Are speedpaints worth it? I’d probably just use it for imperial guard cadian shock troopers.
How fast does it make the process and what makes it speedpaint? Is it just a coat of paint+shader?
>>
>>98507138
I use a few, but not as my main way of painting. The crusader flesh one is a pretty good skin wash if you thin it a bit. Personally I think the slapchop way of painting mostly with contrast/speedpaints looks ugly.

Speedpaints are just like contrast paints, where theyre thin but not a wash.
>>
If I wash my minis after working on them how long should I wait before priming them? Is touch dry ok or should I wait 24h?
>>
>>98507138
they are good as a quick basecoat + wash combo to estabilish some color to layer on top of
purely speedpainted minis look kinda dull tbqh
>>
>>98507217
I’d think touch dry would be long enough; but if you wanted to be safe I’d just let them sit overnight then prime them the next day
>>
>>98507217
It's just water mate, don't overthink it. Pat them dry with a paper towel and leave alone for an hour or two so that the remaining tiny droplets can evaporate from tight spots. That's it.
>>
>>98507138
Depends what you want your minis to look like

Zenithal + speed paint can give you a really nice coat in 2 steps, but it can look kind of 1 dimensional unless you play with the colours you prime/zenithal with

If you wanna do a shitload of infantry quickly by brush it's great but if you want to use an airbrush anyway it's kind of pointless.
>>
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>>98507206
>>98507232
>>98507252
Ok, thank you! I’ll probably just keep how I’m going; I’m only doing standard cadian colors anyway so it’s not super intensive.
Sorry if this comes off as attention whoring but am I doing okay for a newbie? I know I need to touch up some places on this model but does the shading look decent enough?
>>
>>98506759
What's the best way to base coat dozens of miniatures at a time?
They're already primed black but I'm not sure if it's best to dry brush the base coat, airbrush it (though my airbrush clogs quickly seemingly because I live in a dry area). Or just paint it on normally which seems to take forever and I'm sure I'll somehow put on the paint to thick
>>
>>98507302
Airbrush, duh. Use retarder and more thinner if it clogs and obsessively clean the needle tip.
>>
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>>98507311
>Use retarder
n-no u
>>
>>98507336
lel. I nearly wrote "use retarded"
>>
are the magnet baron posable flight stands worth it?
>>
>>98507276
Looks fine enough.
>>
>>98507368
that's kind of subjective, they don't seem too pricey so do you like them?
>>
>>98507400
Not sure, I've never used em. I bought a box of shining spears and I was wondering if they were worth it? I do want to magnetize my flight stands but I don't know if this is the best solution. I'm planning on getting a lot more jetbikes in the future too.
>>
>>98507276
I think this is great for a newbie, it's fairly neatly applied, and looks similar to what you might achieve if you switched to a speedpaint/contrast method. The downside of speedpaint etc for a newbie is it is less forgiving of mistakes, with basic paint layers being more opaque and thus easier to correct when you inevitably put a color where you dont want it accidentally.
>>
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Im having a skeleton of fun
>>
Monument sisters, how do I stop wasting paint? The dropper brings out such a large amount in one drop, I barely need any of it
>>
>>98507573
rebottling
>>
>>98507573
eat the rest of it
>>
>>98507573
Buy dropper caps from amazon, they're cheap.
>>
File: 20mmRvBwip02.jpg (1.32 MB, 3256x1067)
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They are Word Bearers and Crimson Fists.
Just a first pass of the base coat here.
>>
>>98507246
>Pat them dry with a paper towel
definitely get fibers on your freshly cleaned models before priming. pro move.
>>
Are grey paints typically low coverage? I feel like mechanicus standard doesn't cover as well as it should. Regardless of consistency it feels weak.
>>
>>98507683
Mechanicus Standard is very, very meh paint. AK greys are generally pretty good. Though I do love Stormvermin Fur when it comes to Citadel.
>>
>>98507683
Anything beyond a "dark grey" will be finicky, yes. I blame the amount of white it has to use. If you let it soak on a wet palette you can literally see the black and white mix separating.
>>
>>98507683
>>98507702
Seconding AK greys.
t. Grey Schizo
>>
>>98507714
What are your best neutral greys
>>
>>98507725
From darkest to lightest:
AK Dark Grey, Neutral Grey, and Medium Grey. You can color modulate with these with just a tiny touch of mixing.
If you don't mind going colder, then AK German Grey is fantastic, and so is AK AFV Field Grey Base #2 (it's grey feldgrau, but slightly warmer without the blue-ish tint of the German Grey).

From warmer, but still neutral ones, AK Basalt and Ash Grey I like a lot.
>>
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Ffs hiroshimoot please just fucking ONCE let me phonepost a picture that's not sideways, I am at my limit. Anyway, some more progress on infinity. I like taking close up pictures of my models because they are good at showing one's sins for correction.
>>
>>98507756
Fuck's sake
>>
I have a cheap little well palette that I'd like to make double as a texture palette with the big empty circle in the middle. I have a bunch of stuff I could glue to it but what would be the best things to include?
>leftover sprue cut up
>little cork rocks
>texture paste
>actual basing dirt/sand
I know it's not very big, but I figure having something besides a paper towel to wipe dry brushes on is better than nothing.
>>
>>98507756
>>98507764
lol noob
I always just take a screenshot of my picture before mobilefag uploading, it seems to fix it.
>>
>>98507672
Those are some good looking models. Are the chaos dude made by Skeaze?
Also are you planning a game for them? I've been thinking of getting into 15mm.
>>
>>98507775
>the idea here is to have a simple but tactical mirror match, everyones got bolter andgrenades and that's it, at this size a 2'x3' board is equivalent to 4'x6' and I've got a dense load of very configurable terrain for them.
I'm not even going to use GW rules, I think the best option so far is OPR but I'm open to suggestions for something else.
I've gone with capture the flag because that encourages tactical play, although it could just as easily be a one flag game with a defend team and assault team or no flags and a deathmatch.
From my post in /3dpg/
>>
>>98507806
I think with that setup of everyone just being bolter dudes you should look for something where even a simple guy with a gun would have more of options for actions and not just walk/shoot.
Me personally I'd include 1-1 dudes with special gear just to make it more interesting..
But for a game I recommend to check out Xenotactics, I think that would fit the tactical small scale much better than OPR, which is rather bland.
>>
>>98507770
Oh and should I prime the sprue or whatever else I stick to it?
>>
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Work continues on the demonic interpretative dancers.
>>
>>98507877
The rules themselves don't need depth, the size of the board and the density of the terrain with the nature of the objective are going to force a lot of tactical decision-making, so rules where move, shoot and grenade are the options is what I am looking for.
no special equipment, no experience progression, no skills/perks.
>>
>>98507969
The skin is a little sloppy looking. What are these supposed to be anyway?
>>
>>98508116

How to improve the skin? They're my take on trench crusade war wolves from plastic parts in my bits box.
>>
I don't know why GW shilled contrast as "noob friendly easy lazy 1 step solution" paints when they're probably the most complicated things to use in their paint line, the more I use them the more little tricks and improvements I find every single time.
>>
>>98508126
I see. The skin looks muddy now, because of the heavy wash or speedpaint you used. I would go over the flat parts with the original color. You could drybrush if you're not confident. Then maybe add some sparse highlights to the most raised bits.
>>
>>98508143
Because it's the quickest way to go from nothing to something. That something ain't much, but it is something.
>>
>>98507138
If you’re spending a week per mini like the majority of the contrast haters here then you’ll get better results over time with traditional methods. If you’re trying to knock out an army at an acceptable quality before 2027, then contrast slop is a good idea. Zenithal isn’t required but it’s worth learning if you go that route, just don’t fall for the black shading meme.

>>98508143
Because if all you do is load up the brush and stay between the lines (particularly on a heavily greebled fig…now you know why the industry is headed that way) you’ll get a decent result. That’s extremely beginner friendly. What GW didn’t tell us is that the skill ceiling is actually pretty high. In their defense, they didn’t know that people were going to start doing other shit with it.
>>
>layer paint
same energy as "chapter books"
>>
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Currently doing a 30k warp tainted apothecary harvesting a basic half dead word bearers
>>
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>>98508177
>>98508206
I guess but even when starting or going the lazy way they still have caveats.
I remember I started painting when a wave came out like 4? 5? years ago and fell for the shilling, after 2 minis I wasn't happy with the results and bought some regular pots, tried them and it looked way better for less effort, technique and time.
Sure it was missing shading but that was quick and intuitive enough and contrasts barely saved me some time compared to the pain of trying to learn and deal with the different properties of each pot and how they interact with different primers, shades, underlying colors, etc.
Shamelessly taking a pic from a josedavinci youtube video but it's a good representation of how easy it is to fuck up with these paints just with the most basic brush usage and end up with a really bad result.

Doesn't help that citadel contrasts are still not properly labeled as some are glorified washes and some are incredible paints for many reasons and not even comparable to regular base pots, yet many of those glorified washes are actually great for unique use cases BECAUSE of their shitty coverage/pigment/etc.
>>
>>98508248
Is the red on his wrist supposed to be blood?
Not trying to talk shit, just looks a bit too runny, almost like he spilled some juice on it, which paint are you using?
>>
I hate waiting for putty to dry aaaahhhhh
>>
>>98508143
>>98508363
the best thing to come out of contrast is people starting to prime white
>>
>>98507677
the pro move is to spray it with alcohol out of your airbrush and then blowing it dry just before painting
>>
>>98508363
You want something that actually looks good, the average shitter just wants to play. That image is just some photoshopped bullshot.

>>98508433
You personal preference is not better.
>>
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>>98508497
>That image is just some photoshopped bullshot.
It's not, it's the difference between primer/undercoat colors and brush usage, I know because this is similar to what happened to me hence why I used it as an example.
One is on black primer with lots of pooling, smallish brush and many other issues that you wouldn't know about unless you had the previous experience and info beforehand.
>>
>>98508497
>the average shitter just wants to play
it'd be way easier to just slap in base paint and then a wash which is the true lazy shitter approach
>>
>>98508143
even if you don't use it right, it still paints a lot quicker than regular hobby paint.
>>
>>98508534
Why?
Prime -> basecoat within the lines -> wash.
Prime ->slop within the lines.

The first has an extra step.
>>
>>98508522
Speedpaint on black primer?
>>
>>98508497
>You personal preference is not better.
You can paint over white with the shittiest possible paints and "hard to paint" colors become trivially easy. Armies painted over white read better on the table compared to dark mudcore you used to see. If you have to pick one primer then white is by far the most flexible
>>
>>98508577
Yes, it's easier to use.
>>
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>>98507756
Iphone use here. I ran an experiment, you should too.
> photo in portrait mode, it will exif data 90ccw.
>a photo in landscale mode it will post correctly.
>a photo in landscape lefty-mode, it will australia post.

So if you want to phonepost a portrait mode picture, you must edit the phot using the crop feature first. I find the best way to do this is to edit>crop>zoom in>zoom back out>save.

Alternately, if you open any photo you sent to your computer in preview or windows photo viewer, and just save it with no changes it will overwrite the rotation exif data and make it safe to post.
>>
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It’s fun to make things, soon I’ll have a little army of weird floating things
>>
Oh and never rotate a picture using your phone if you accidentally took it wrong (happens a lot trying to take shots from above), that wont fix it.
>>
>>98508566
A 2 step process can be shorter and faster than a 1 step process if the 1 step process takes longer, the steps and the careful hand you need to make contrast worthwhile even at a base level so it actually covers correctly without making more problems than what it's worth like not knowing which paints actually provide good coverage, which ones require extra shaking/mixing because their formula fucks up the pigments very quickly and they sit on the base, avoid pooling so all details don't go to shit, etc, often takes as long if not more than just a quick brushed base for an army and then a quick shade.
If you start doing highlights and several thin coats then yeah contrast will obviously be easier and faster but if you want speed you're not doing that anyway.

>>98508597
Not for contrast paints, darker primer colors actually make them harder to work with in most cases as their coverage will be complete ass and you'll get weird patches in many of the paints so you'll often need another coat which will change the color and lower the shading effect.
>>
>>98508615
That is wicked anon. Really nice detailings, you really nailed the ballsack look on those sculpted parts.
>>
>>98508627
Cheers, I might have enough bits to make one more monster, just need to figure out proper base sizing
>>
>>98508611
idk about iphones but my android phone is set up so if you are holding the phone the right way the side button works as a shutter button and the picture is always right side up. don't know how you retards have so much trouble with such a simple process.
>>
>>98508626
You're saying "normal" paints just go on automatically,don't have coverage problems, and don't need a careful hand? You can get away with a more sloppy painting with speedpaints, as mistakes stand out less.
>>
>>98508626
>Not for contrast paints, darker primer colors actually make them harder to work
You just agreed with me.
>>
>>98508377
I wanted to do an effect like if fresh blood had been whip off 30 second earlier with a rag or something
>>
File: Typhus.png (2.77 MB, 1372x910)
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>>98506759
Working on a base for Typhus, I came up with this. I have some skulls buried in the dirt, with Typhus standing on a split rock. I plan to add a bunch of Nurgle's rot (technical paint) to the base once it's primed, but the issue I'm running into is that He's partially standing on a rubble pile of Imperial ruins that doesn't really fit with the nature-rock base. I'm trying to convince myself that the base is just a snapshot of ruins in aa rocky environment, and the ruins that Typhus' right foot is standing on is just part of that.

Comments and recommendations are greatly appreciated.
>>
>>98508864
The ruins could easily just be a bit of blown up building, looks fine.
>>
I've been trying to cookup a color scheme for Eldar for a bit. I settled on purple for the main body armor/robes, but wasnt super sure on helms/wraithbone. I was originally gonna do a bone color like ulthwe, but then I saw this post, and thought it looked great. I'm a bit worried that the gold will look tacky on guardians/wraithguards though.
>>
guitar string looks amazing for some of the detailed tubing I'm trying to add to some minis, but when I try to curve it into shapes I want, it usually just kinks

how do you guys bend and curve your guitar string?
>>
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>>98509102
>>
>>98509242
Too much tension for detailed tubing. Even if you managed to have it not kink, it would probably pop loose eventually. I roll a tube of putty over a ribbed surface, similar result, easy to work with.
>>
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>>98509102
>>98509245
Those are warlocks and a farseer, could keep the guardians and wraithguard with the bone colored helmets to not outshine the seer council. Just paint some of the rounded sphere shapes on the shoulders of the guardians and wraiths with the gold.

On my end I'm looking at incorporating white into my scheme, I just know citadel colors for whites are all shit. Does anyone have any recommendations from other brands?
>>
>>98509313
All white paint is shit, that's the nature of titanium pigment. Lead white is better, but the kids kept eating paint chips, so they don't sell it anymore.
>>
>>98509313
This might be what I do. I'll see about finding a cheapo assortment of Eldar on Ebay to test things.
>>98509245
It took me way to long to tell what was different here. I think I like the pale gold in the original image, but the brighter warmer gold might look better with purple robes.
>>
>>98509398
The idea was to make it a little less tacky looking.
>>
>>98509242
idk did you try annealing it so it's less springy?
>>
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Finished base coats, started highlights and got through the trim.
>>
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Going for a corroded theme for this PM rather than a mutated/green one. How does it look so far?
>>
>>98509723
Looks good to me
>>
>>98509723
Pretty nice, would probably need some more contrast IMO but its nice so far.
How are you creating that texture?
>>
>>98509778
The texture is Typhus Corrosion, a technical paint. How would you suggest I add more contrast? A wash? I used agrax earthshade here and there but not a full coat.
>>
>>98509795
How do you get typhus to work like that?
Thick coats?
Mine just kinda splotches it a bit when I tried it.

>How would you suggest I add more contrast?
Contrast was probably the wrong word, but aesthetic contrast so to say, the teeth create a nice juxtaposition and makes it so the mini does not get lost in a sea of rust and just looks samey, for example if the tongue ends up bright and pinkyish or some other color, as long as it's saturated, to create that color and texture contrast with the brown rust your eyes won't get lost in the sea of rust.
I assume you're already doing this since I see the green parts and the teeth and so, but figured I might as well mention it.
>>
Got the Bladeguard and Aggressors primed.
>>
>>98509827
I use multiple coats of TC, thick coats yeah. I also use Ryza Rust for the orange component.
>>
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Working on the metals now
>>
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>>98509657
One more round of highlights and i'm done for the night.
>>
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only heads to customize and they should be rdy for priming with other 30 chickens.

I hope they will look unique
>>
>>98507138
Some of them are also decent if you want a less common colored metallic, using a silver or gold basecoat underneath, but then Vallejo made an entire lineup of paints for those anyway, and Tamiya's clear stuff can do the same shit. But neither account for all colors and there's more variety in speedpaints.
>>
>>98509944
Cool. What you doing with the heads?
>>
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>>98509944
these look fantastic dude
>>
>>98509944
These look incredible anon. Can you explain the different colored puttys and why you used two?
>>
>>98509848
I really like the recess shading.
>>
Does anyone else feel bad doing batch painting? It just feels like work to me, it's not fun. It also doesn't really feel faster than doing one at a time. I don't know if it's just a lack of experience on my end or what.
>>
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medium yeller
>>
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More progress on my archon. Glued the body together and did the putty work on the back of the torso. I always forget to take photos of the important steps, but what I did was saw into the lower back in a few spots so I could bend the torso to straighten the spine–normally he has a very leaning-backwards pose. After I opened it up I filled it with some wedges and then putty.

Got the husk blade transferred over but I still need to finish the arms. I intend to swap right arm for the more DE styled plating.
>>
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Blues done, I forgot the parchment so I'll figure that out tomorrow
I feel better about the guy after doing most of the details, the coming together feeling really helps
>>
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Got me one of them Rampart Wolverine tanks after seeing them here multiple times.
It's pretty cheap considering how good it looks on the images. I paid 26€. I also appreciate the fact that it has moving parts like the turret and the back door. But some of the parts came with rather visible scuff marks, I hope those disappear once it's primed.
>>
>>98510382
Lovely glow on those eyes anon.
>>
>>98510283
cheesed to meet you
>>
>>98510283
bro I'm literally begging you, at least drybrush the base so it looks less like diarrhea PLEASE
>>
>>98510283
What happened to his left shoulder pad? Did you put it on paint remover for too long?
>>
>>98510668
it is drybrushed
>>98510703
went too ham with gloss varnish when i was doing the enamels
>>
>>98510797
>it is drybrushed
did you drybrush it with the same color or what, there's 0 contrast
>>
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Getting a new batch of Custodes painted up and thought about changing my basing. Which one looks better?

>Left looks a lot more matte and flat, is what I currently use otherwise
>Right is some basing material for wastes, lighter and has some reflective bits of rock in there
>>
>>98510382
looks great, the nmm on that big purity seal thingy caught my eye in partiuclar
>>
>>98510826
maybe there was no paint involved
it is still drybrushing
>>
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>>98509981
>>98510022
>>98510055

Thanks bros
>I use those color markings to separate every 10man squad.
>every 10 man squad i lead by 3 "fem" kroots 1 is longquill and they all reciving some kind of plume headgears of masks.
>Color of marker is the same as the color of tribal markings they gonna recive on skin and faces.
>I tried to give every squad a gimmic for eqample guys with purple markers are all melee oriented with some kind of blades or custom axes made from weapon stocks.
>Every model that dont carry riffle in hand gonna heve it glued on back.

For example team"yellow" looks like snipers with hoods and some kind of gullie suits (still workin on them)

I will post some pic when they are doon if u want
>>
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>>98510283
ymmmmm cheeeese
>>
>>98510897
Use the right for some more variation in size, and then paint it (base+2 tones of drybrush). And skip the bright red rims.
>>
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I have it in my head to build a Kill Krusha from sprues/plasticard

Is this a retarded endeavour that will take years or should I go for it.
>>
>>98511152
scrachtbuilding and kitbashing is life, do it
>>
>>98511152
better get to it when you still have the inspiration
who knows you might be done by wendesday
>>
>>98509313
A couple of us here like Golden. Then again, a couple of us here say that Golden dries so glossy that nothing sticks to it, even though I somehow prime with it. At the end of the day you’re soliciting opinions on 4chan, so you’re going to have to decide which of us are well-meaning but midwitted redditors parroting bad advice, which of us are bots, which of us are downright psychopaths trying to make trouble for total strangers, and which of us are simply providing experience-based advice to try to help frens that like the same hobbies that we do. Good luck in your quest.
>>
>>98511152
Testing out new techniques and pushing your own boundaries is the way to avoid losing joy in the hobby. My favourite projects were the ones where I did exactly that.
>>
>>98511436
>A couple of us here like Golden. Then again, a couple of us here say that Golden dries so glossy
Before you start complaining about bad advice, you should check yourself, anon.
A fair bit of Golden paints dry glossy, especially colors with lower pigment load. For minipainting and scale models, you should be using SoFlat anyway.
>>
>>98511062
coloured rims are kino though
>>
>>98511454
SoFlat dries matte, right?
Does it have any issues with paint adhesion?
>>
>>98511462
Yeah, universally so compared to their main range, hence the name. No issues with paint adhesion, but again, I don't have that many of these paints.
>>
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>>98510055
one is pure green stuff the other is 50/50 green stuff with miliputty. Its easie to sculpt and it goest harded almost like pure plastic i like it for for that cuz greenstuff is more elastic and work well on parts that i dont want to fall off/break off easly
>>
Trying my hand at converting my old AP palette into a texture palette. I definitely fucked up throwing dirt in there and it's all probably going to have to come out. Too much glue, far too fine sand with basically no texture to it. Any suggestions? I'll prime it black after I get everything in there.
>>
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Morning progress on my small marines
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HASHUT
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some matt varnish once everything is dry and settled and I am calling these done. I believe, applying all the decals took more time than the paint job.
>>
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I finished the armor, time to move onto the corset and robes. I'm attempting to get better at directional lighting. Before I would just highlight everything exactly the same without caring about if the lighting made sense or not.
>>98511754
Hello fellow violet enjoyer
>>98511603
Small pill bottles work the best for me but can be cumbersome
>>98511724
The nmm reads very well. I love the swords and the armor.
>>
>>98511832
How does a small pill bottle work as a texture palette?
>>
>>98511850
Sorry, I misunderstood. I don't think you really need to start over with that pallet. If the glue is making the rocks too smooth you could try dissolving some of it with rubbing alcohol to make it grittier. Be sure to do it outside and with a mask.
>>
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>>98511194
>>98511205
>>98511441
Ok sprue scaffolding is done

Got the size of it online and it's smaller than I imagined

Gonna go buy shitload of plasticard tomorrow
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>>98511965
Also very tempted to cannibalize these spartan tracks cos I'm not confident I can do the tracks justice but then I won't have a spartan anymore

will build the hull tomorrow and see whats up

(wine cork for balance)
>>
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Thoughts on this base? It's for Typhus (eventually).
>>
>>98512138
Pretty cool, looks suitably nasty
No obligatory Death Guard green goo?
>>
>>98512195
Yeah, I have Nurgle's rot on the way.
>>
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>try not to bury lines on white-grey head
>bury them anyway

Well, fug.
>>
>>98512558
Have you ever heard about our lord and savior oil pinwash? Or his son, enamel pinwash? Or perhaps their apostles, panel liners?
>>
>>98512573
Forgive me Padre, for I have sinned and used normal acrylic wash here instead of superior oil wash. I wished to avoid having to wait 2-3 days before returning to painting but that was foolish.
>>
>>98512584
If you don't want to commit, you can get enamels which are dry in couple of hours. Tamiya Panel Liner is pretty much #1 game changer for painting Tau.
>>
>>98511679
Are these Varus marines? Would you mind sharing the files, please? I can see they've been scrubbed from cults.
>>
why can people in the /m/ plamo thread paint gundams that are like 80% white and it always ends up looking nice and smooth, but whether it's tau or space marines or whatever no one here can paint even a tiny spot of white without it looking like dried cum? why don't people here just copy whatever they are doing?
>>
>>98512676
>what's an airbrush
>>
>>98512676
Most /m/ paints their gundams with airbrush and lacquers. Brush painting white, which is the most popular way due to size of details and elements on miniatures for wargaming, is pretty hard and often ends with rough surface. That's just how white pigment works.
>>
>>98512700
>>98512704
what's stopping you from doing this with your miniatures? a head is literally the easiest example since you can spray it white by itself before attaching it to the body. even if it's the main part that has white you can base coat it in white and then brush paint all of the non-white parts like how you do watercolors.
>>
>>98512756
stylish choice
not everyone want s their models to look like toys but more like wargaming models
>>
>>98512774
I don't think people are painting their gundams to look like toys though
>>
>>98512756
why do you assume i don't?
why do you assume everyone has or wants to use an airbrush?
why do you assume everyone wants a perfect gunpla white on a marine?

not sure what's your point here
>>
>>98512787
They're as if the schizo who insisted that you don't need to paint highlights or shadows was the population baseline.
>>
>>98512790
so are you saying people want crusty cum stain white on their minis?
>>
>>98512790
Stop being a dingus.
>>
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Anyone ever used these DSPIAE sandpaper sponges?
Seems like a good catch all value deal and it's discounted in my country.
>>
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>>98512806
if you take this as an example of what a "real" gundam is supposed to look like would you say the way people typically paint them does not successfully create the same impression?
>>
>>98512756
Sometimes I do that, sometimes I don't. Mostly inconvenience, too since getting airbrush ready to use (desk setup, cleaning afterwards, etc) takes too much time to justify painting single piece. Going around sounds tempting but I often still make mistakes that need to be fixed later. And I don't use lacquers due to fumes.

And your earlier comment about dried cum was exaggerated anyway.
>>
>>98512830
yes
they are fine
>>
>>98512830
Sponge is a sponge, those are also quite small compared to what AK sells for example.
>>
>>98512830
Yes, got em for like 8 bucks and they're great. I think I ruined the edges trying to use them like sand paper though but there's multiples and they were 8 bucks
>>
>>98512830
Yeah, they are my favorite sanding tools. Easy recommend.
>>
>>98512862
>And I don't use lacquers due to fumes.
but you have an airbrush?
>>
>>98511679
>>98512664
nvm, found them
>>
Why is wood glue not very popular with sand basing and instead it is PVA white glue?
Does it really matter if a PVA glue is "washable" or not when gluing on sand then sealing it with watered down pva?

I shopped at the dollar store and I believe I saw Elmer's PVA glue but maybe it was washable marked. There also was probably dollarama's studio brand pva glue, but I'm not sure if the cheapest reflects it's quality as being bad or if it punches above it's price.
I want to do that old school sand basing thing, but I read somewhere that some PVA glues like supposedly Aleene's tacky make it harder to let the sand show texture when drybrushed by the way that glue dries.

I know PVA glue might be the same but then I remember how we have paint brand tribalism so I'm curious as to what bargain brand PVA glue MUST be avoided for basing. Including the hobby taxed PVA glues.
>>
>>98512846
It does still look pretty toy-like, tbdesu.
>>
>>98512944
most wood glue is pva
>>
>>98511454
And here’s our first one. Did you miss my comment about priming with it? Which colors of Golden were you using and what paints didn’t work with them? Please be very specific.

>>98511462
So I’ve heard, but I’ve never used anything from that line. I’m a bit of an odd duck in this thread because I only shill and shit on stuff that I’ve personally used.
>>
>>98512935
Yes? Acrylics produce no fumes and only protection you need is P3 mask, some people don't use even that and simply spray into cardboard.
>>
>>98513005
>Did you miss my comment about priming with it?
you mean base coating?
>>
>>98512944
i always use wood glue bacause its almost half as cheap
>>
>>98512866
>>98512869
>>98512874
>>98512916
great, thanks
>>
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I'm almost finished with these guys, just missing the eyes and a few dot highlights.

These miniatures were released exactly 20 years ago, in the summer of 2006.

And if it weren't for this starter set i probably could have never afforderd to stick with wargaming as a broke teenager and would have likely stopped being involved with the hobby altogether.

They might not be the best dwarfs out there, but definitely my favourite.
>>
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6 squads rdy to prime
(dont mind shitty paiting of some of them i made it long time ago as a first paiting) gonna repaint tham
>>
>>98513165
cool they look celshaded
>>
>>98510382
Very cool, I've always been a massive sucker for incredibly limited palette colour schemes.
It's like the painting version of a power trio band.
>>
>>98512676
Almost all Gundam painters I've seen do reverse highlights too. So they will darken edges on the armour to create separation and depth.
It's almost like a black border around cartoons in a way, but way more subtle of course.
But as somebody who got his first Warhammer shit 32 years ago, it feels like heresy doing "highlights" like that hehe. It's the complete opposite of what I've been doing for all these years.
>>
>>98510382
>blue tape mags
/k/?
>>
>>98513256
>Almost all Gundam painters I've seen do reverse highlights too.
That's just basic color modulation/panel lighting. Pretty much everyone does that, armor scale modellers, plane scale modellers, train autists, gundam painters, etc. Not sure why it is so rare with minipainters.
>>
>>98513266
Just didn't want to make them black
>>
>>98512787
to my knowledge they do
just this summer some anon was bragging here how they now have this technology where they can injection mold the whole robot with all the moving parts and pristine paintjob straight out of the machine so you dont event have to paint or put them together anymore
>>
>>98512940
Good because I have no idea which ones they are, I downloaded all marines from the telegram and picked the ones I liked.
>>
>>98513279
Because it looks just odd. Edge highlighting makes sense since light scatters at edges and people expects them to be brighter than main body. I'm supposed to believe that each panel is in fact convex and lighter at the center, darker at the edges?

>>98513333
Funny enough, he reposted my own image, which I took while building one of Bandai 30MM kits, just because I was not sure what the fuck I am looking at or what was the point of making this multicolored cube with 3mm holes at each side. Turns out it was just Bandai flexing their mold engineering muscles.
>>
I have Gamers Grass thermoplastic basing bits. Do these need to be cleaned? They're not resin so I assume not but they feel a little different, like there's a film on them. But that might just be the quality of plastic they use.
>>
>>98513572
i dont claim to know much about gundam but arent they just something for show that you fill your cabinets with like endless anime figurines
not that anyone has never done the same with tabletop minis because we all play with them right
right
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>>98513572
>Because it looks just odd.
There's a reason why pretty much the entire scale model world does it while no one but (some) minipainters do the Citadel style edge highlighting.
>Edge highlighting makes sense since light scatters at edges and people expects them to be brighter than main body
Sans the matter of taste, it is a very silly claim to make, anon.
>>
>>98513615
give them a good scrub anon it never hurts to be sure
>>
>>98513279
>>98513642
It still looks weird to me no matter how many people use it. I get it sort of draws your eyes in a different way, but I just think it looks unrealistic.
Here's a sharp edge, let me make it dark. It looks really odd to me and always has.
>>
>>98513642
>>98513675
If you look at the average Black Templar model that the 'eavy metal painting team paints, they put these ridiculous neon blue lines at every possible edge of the model. I've always thought that edge highlighting just isn't necessary and looks unnatural.
>>
>>98513675
>>98513689
both of these look pretty good to the eye from half a meter away though even if they dont make any sense
>>
>>98511724
Love this scheme, and the NMM is pretty good.
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>>98513171
Holy shit anon. How long did that take you? That is some serious dedication.
>>
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>>98513675
>but I just think it looks unrealistic.
>edge highlighting is realistic
>>
>>98513005
nta but i used golden high flow diarylide yellow on >>98510283 and paint just doesn't stick to it. it's easy to fix with a varnish but painting anything by hand directly over it is frustrating because it just slides off
>>
>>98513615
you should always clean your parts before painting. even if there's no contaminants on them from the factory there's still going to be oil from your hands taking them out of the box.
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when i heard greatswords have furious charge i immediately got this sudden urge to finish 10 at once
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>>98513722
around 1month of 1-3h session whenever i had some free time. Still working on gulie suits for Yellow "sniper" team
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>>98513945
Beauty! How did you get the paper banner to wave like that?
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>>98513689
>they put these ridiculous neon blue lines at every possible edge of the model
true, thats basically why I like our btanon

i think the eavy metal style would be less offensive if they used neutral greys maybe
>>
>>98514057
i like the sniper team
>>98514076
rolled the banner into shape around a thick marker pen and then spray varnished it into shape
its comically huge i know but i like how they look on a table
>>
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>>98514157
Doesn't look comedic to me, looks great. Then again, people laughed at my giant chainsword and I was surprised by the reaction lol.
>>
>>98512676
You need a proper base coat to do white. I use pink or grey
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>>98512944
I just used regular white elmers glue for a base, the only problem is regular white glue resoftens woth exposure to water so if you slop on acrylic with a lot of water it'll soften. But usually I don't use a lot of water so it's fine. Pva is stronger because it has more vinyl, but tacky glue is basically pva glue but non archival but its cheaper and works just fine too, i save my archival pva for making books
>>
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Here is another example of the plague marine scheme I'm going for. I'm I'm trying to convince myself that it looks cool (and I know this one needs more work) as a more rusty, corroded theme, but I'm just not sure. Thoughts?
>>
>>98512676
Most gundums are airbrushed with enamels, requires solvent thinners, acrylic is difficult but they could use a touch of propylene glycol to thin it for brush work at the expense of extra bleeding and use more coats for even coverage
>>
>>98514347
The bright turquoise verdigris clashes quite a bit with the rust.
>>
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Think it's done
I don't know how to paint purity seals besides one color and wash and usually don't bother with them, doesn't help that this one's really fat and looks like layer cake if I add shadow to the edge
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>>98514347
The mid is great but like the anon said the turquoise is a bit off, I get why it's there but it's a bit too much, a green would probably go better.
>>
>>98514347
I love it, looks grimy maybe a sepia wash over the verdisgris would mute it though
>>
>>98514368
>>98514391
Yeah I probably went to hard on the nihilakh oxide (the technical color for the verdigris). Do you think I could add some sort of wash to it to tone it down or should I just paint over it and start again?
>>
>>98514175
damn that's cool, he looks like he duels dreadnoughts in melee
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>>98514384
Looks great fren, he glowie, do a blueish green wash over the seal for the shadows and touches of cyan on the raised areas to tint the highlights blue, let the cream show through for nayural color midtones
>>
>>98514400
you could lightly drybrush your metallic color over it to make it look like the verdigris has worn from the raised areas that would be getting contact
>>
>>98514391
>>98514400
Actually wait, maybe you could look into changing the color of the oxide technical and try to make a moss like effect?
Can you paint over it?
>>
>>98514412
Good idea, will do.
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>>98514400
Pick rust or verdigris, putting them both on is just overdone.
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>>98514418
Okay, what do you mean by moss-like? Might ve cool to change the color of the oxide a bit.
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>>98514430
Using the rust grain effect on the armor painting it with some green and then softly transition that into the oxide areas so it looks more natural, like the rust transitions into moss and that moss softly transitions into the less decayed areas covered previously by said moss.
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>>98514440
also no idea if this would actually work, just spitballing something that could be neat and might try myself later
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>>98514440
>>98514447
Yeah might be cool.
>>
>>98513053
No, I mean priming. Titan buff high flow is my go to for a light primer.

>>98513736
Given that you provided a pic and I’ve never used any of their yellows (we were discussing whites), I’m inclined to take you at your word. Out of curiosity, did you brush it on or shoot it? And does the yellow settle much?
>>
>>98514406
Thanks fren
>>
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Getting close to done with these.
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>>98514644
>>
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>>98514650
Flags are double sided.
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>>98514654
>>
>>98514487
it's not primer though? so it's just base coating.
>>
>>98514650
>>98514644
>>98514654
>>98514658
Looks great, i love the flags and chaos warriors and johnnys, classic style!
>>
>>98510283
So beautiful
>>
>>98510022
That's awesome. Looks like real building material with worn white wash paint
>>98509848
Give her my number, I'm begging you
>>98509245
Gems look amazing
>>98508864
Make a diagonal pipe coming out of the ground like there's a hidden base or mine under the earth that blew up cracking the stone
>>
>>98508522
Those are beautiful, good use of contrast paints
>>
>>98514362
>Most gundums are airbrushed with enamels
Lacquers mainly.
>acrylic is difficult but they could use a touch of propylene glycol to thin it for brush work at the expense of extra bleeding and use more coats for even coverage
Slowing the drying time just makes the problem worse. Use a hairdryer to dry the paint quickly if you want an even finish with matte paint over a large area.
>>
>>98508248
Woah he's cool
>>98508126
Touches of pale green Grey on the highlights where the bone show through. Old master trick.
>>
>>98507969
Everybody get loose, footloose, kick off your sunday shoes
>>
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calling these done. quite happy with how they've turned out.
>>
>>98507770
Yeah use keep craft paint to prime it, just use sprues and smooth pebbles and sticks from outside, pieces of plastic bottle caps, buttons, pladtic gears, wires, anything you can scrap from old clothes or broken stuff around your house, use air hardening clay to smooth some of the edges and blend it together like art, maybe add some sand or walnut shell or kitten litter, make it strange and cool. It's a really good idea. Maybe you could sell them.
>>
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Finished this one
>>
>>98514713
Awesome bots! Reminds me of star wars with solid colored panels amd whote bodies like r2d2 and the xwings. Very creative scheme
>>
>>98514734
I want to sex her, but she's evil. I hate my life.
>>
>>98514734
Wicked sick
>>
>>98514734
Butt...
>>
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>>98514734
>>
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Some final touchups and cleaned up the bases, done with these for now.
>>
>>98514751
You can fix her.
>>
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Anybody know where to source some cheap generic soldiers in flat top helms with tabards and maille sorta like pic related? I know wargames atlantic has some generic similar models but they're not quite what I'm looking for
>>
>>98515146
What about the WGA foot knights is not to your liking? Because they sound like exactly what you're asking for. I know they might be a little on the real-scale side of things, is that it?
>>
>>98512953
>>98513092
>>98514327
Thanks guys. I'm not sure if the gorilla wood glue can be diluted a bit with water to make a "sealing layer" for lack of a better term after the first layer of sand is glued on. It has to be diluted to a "milk" consistency right?
I have Aleene's tacky right now. I can put up with it's supposed problem of hiding sand texture. Maybe the grains I got are just too small to the point where I might be using powder.
Is the solution just making the layer thinner and then waiting for it to dry and then adding a sealing layer watered to milk?

>>98514795
Very nice elf booba and boota, anon.
How did you do that white hair?
You gotta take these elves to a game and record the initial player reactions. And I need to know what you did to paint that skin tone and whether you know some recipes for tones from lightest to darkest, please.
>krautcover
That stuff is being sold at my LGS. Less than 12 Canadian dollars for a small pack of sand that I think looks like my batch. I've pondered buying it as a joke to save the German economy but my country Canada is a joke too.
I know we like to make fun of hobby stuff being regular products with a hobby tax, but sometimes I wonder if it is better to pay the hobby tax if it means helping the hobby store stay afloat. I like the LGS I can go to. But I already have the cheap alternatives.
>>98515146
Victrix medieval foot knights maybe? They're 28mm.
>>
>>98515212
what do you need to seal it from? it's not like sand is hygroscopic.
>>
>>98515219
The sealing is to prevent the sand from flaking off from miniature gaming.
It is why I asked about wood glue being used in the first place as supposedly that is PVA glue but super stronger and water resistant. I think.
>>
>>98514362
none of what you said is correct
>>
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space man
>>
>>98515234
What was done to make those dark metallic talons? I need a dark metal acrylic paint. I know mixing but that isn't consistent and gives me colour autism. Also what's your paint recipe for the lad's face? I have some pinup female miniatures I want to paint in that tone or similarly to that tone.
>>
>>98515226
if it's properly glued down it's not going to fall off.
>>
>>98514384
>blank purity seal
immersion broken, into the trash it goes. Just paint Tau at this point.
>>
>>98515262
It absolutely will come off. Don't talk shit.
>>
>>98515270
does the abrasive fall off sandpaper just from being handled?
>>
>>98515244
talons
>VMC burnt iron
>highlight with TTC mythril blade
skin
>prime dark grey
>basecoat vallejo armour brown
>dunk in thin reikland fleshshade
>drybrush with a 1:1 mix of GSW dwarven flesh and PA golden brown
>after painting the eyes wash them with a thin purple wash
i kinda winged the skin desu i've never painted anything other than white people but the head has negroidic features so i felt i had to paint him black
>>
>>98515262
>if it's properly glued down it's not going to fall off.
I prefer to have a sealant layer over the dried glued on sand layer for my miniatures. Just to be sure before I start the sand painting. I'm okay with PVA glue brand recommendations. If they can be easily acquired in this nightmare realm called Canada.
>Canadian owned brands bumped up prices for patriotism tax
They better be genuinely good beyond being made in specific country.
Due note I do already have PVA glue as I said it was Aleene's. This is more about after replacing having used up what I have.
>>
>>98515244
>I need a dark metal acrylic paint.
scale 75 black metal
>>
>>98515278
>talons
>VMC burnt iron
New label or old label? I'm not sure if Vallejo messed with the acrylic formulas of the metal color line. I heard that stuff is super thin because it is meant for airbrush application so is any thinning with water necessary or do you just thin on a dry palette to make sure you don't have too much paint on the brush?
>skin
>thin reikland fleshshade
>thin purple wash
Thinned as in thin amount or thinned with water to what ratio?
>i kinda winged the skin desu i've never painted anything other than white people
I understand. I usually stick with lighter skin tones because those acrylics I've found to be weaker and I need to learn and get the hang of painting weaker acrylics. Painting darker tones becomes a fun breeze I shouldn't get too used to. But it is a nice break from the usual formula.
>so i felt i had to paint him black
I felt that too when I worked on some spacenam models. I will admit I always never felt my skin tones were done right.
But I do want to paint an albino skinned mini at some point. Like how albinos are portrayed in animes. I don't think I've ever seen an albino of any ethnicity but if I did I'd probably look a second or third time out of curiosity. They'd probably find that very annoying.
>>
>>98515279
the only reason you would need to seal it is if you were using something like salt or baking soda that might absorb moisture from the atmosphere. sand isn't going to do that so there's no point. you are like those old people who fall for scammers selling driveway sealant.
>>
>>98515146
stl prints without supports, I've painted it myself. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5241577
>>
>>98515289
Not op, but we seldom thin according to an exact ratio, just having some moisture on our brush is enough running it over our wet palette to thin it out. Acrylic paint dries too fast to worry about exact ratios unless you are doing airbrush and premixing a large quantity for priming or something. Thin just means enough water to see through it a bit.
>>
>>98515276
False equivalence, dunce.
>>
>>98515305
I did consider baking soda snow which needs sealant. I should have mentioned that part earlier. Sorry.
>sand isn't going to do that so there's no point.
Then the only point left is to recommend me a brand of PVA glue that is just a glue and go paint kind of good quality. So what works for you with pics and a timestamp for legitimacy?
>you are like those old people who fall for scammers selling driveway sealant.
Well I am reaching what the kids call "unc" age and I'm almost 30 so I'm probably like them now if I am not already.
>>
>>98515305
No, I've glued sand to a base with PVA many times, it will fleck off when drybrushing it. There's a reason people seal it and noone's getting scammed by using a bit of extra glue you fucking retard. Now fuck off.
>>
>>98515320
you have to glue the sand down and then shake off the excess like when you are frying chicken. also idk why people here constantly shit on craft paint but refuse to use anything but craft glue.
>>
>>98515328
Feel free to be wrong and go against common knowledge based on experience.
>>
You're supposed to glue the bits down, shake some off, and then add another layer of glue that seeps into the gaps and makes it stronger.
>>
>>98515328
>also idk why people here constantly shit on craft paint but refuse to use anything but craft glue.
I think the shitting on craft paint is because of the "craftsperg" I've seen mentioned here. It is impressive how one autist can tank the perception of a concept even if the original intentions are good. Maybe "craftsperg" took it too far.
I do consider craft paint for terrain painting. If I ever get into it. I know some historical acrylic hobby paints follow the RLM, RAL, and FS colour lists so they can be easily replaced. But their quantities are usually not big enough.
>refuse to use anything but craft glue
I mentioned wood glue at >>98512944 (me) for a reason.
>>98515343
>another layer of glue that seeps into the gaps and makes it stronger.
This is the water thinned to milk consistency part of sealing I've seen in tutorials sometimes, right?

I just remembered I have to bake my sand to disinfect it. Depending on how many pounds I have collected, how long should I bake at what temperature in the oven?
>>
>>98515359
bake at 400f for 40-50 minutes until the crust is golden brown and the toothpick is no longer wet after poking
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>>98515359
>how long should I bake at what temperature in the oven?
I'm not sure when it comes to sand, but the rule of thumb for food is that everything should be 65°+ C to be safe.
>>
>>98515362
Not sure if sarcasm or joking.
>t. I am an autist defect
>>98515382
Thanks. It has been the unknowing of what temperatures to use that has made me procrastinate on baking my sand. The plastic container is probably it's own ecosystem now.
>>
>>98511965
Lol
Keep us posted
>>
>>98515234
Great finish
>>
>>98513165
Did you paint in the shading black parts?
>>
>>98515146
Check victix foot knights
>>
>>98515288
Any metallic with a drop of black ink or black paint
>>
>>98515359
Craftsperg proved himself correct tho, and posted models to prove it
>>
>>98515288
I thought scale 75 shat the bed or isn't good.
If it is true then what about Turbo Dork's black ice paint?
>>98515511
That's true but what ratio of black paint or black ink to metal paint on average across metal paints to keep things as consistent as possible? I've seen 'eavy archive recipes but I've wondered how the official painters keep things consistent. I think they've got mixes of the stuff.

I did see some Vallejo paints and even some acrylic inks mentioned in the recipes though. I thought those were weird and made me question the site's validity because I doubt GW would ever permit their painters to use anything outside the Warhammer paint "ecosystem."
But then again they still use painted sand so maybe exceptions are made.
>>
>>98515516
>Craftsperg proved himself correct tho, and posted models to prove it
I tried to be neutral on the subject of craftsperg. I looked back at my post and I think I fumbled it badly. But what specifics things was he correct about and what were his models? Just curious. Archive links?
>>
>>98513165
Great job amd so classic
>>
>>98514734
Lovely tiddy anon.
>>
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Continuing to try to practice NMM - although I'm not there yet I feel like I am moving on the right track, and it looks nice even if it isn't convincing NMM
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"sniper" yellow team in ghillie suit rdy i hope that mix of glue and water that i used to seal the cloak gonna try fast i want to prime them all today
>>
>>98513689
I never liked blue toned highlights on Black Templars either. I prefer them in the 3rd edition cover John Blanche style where it's a warm black colour with very sparse neutral highlights. (I also much prefer the shoulder pads being bone coloured and not white. Yeah it blends in with the cloth colours, but I love very limited colour palettes and I think it ties the mini together)
The way Cult of Paint does black armour is my favourite because it looks more natural. The edge highlighting is done very naturally to draw your eye in to certain areas and also acts more like weathering than a razor sharp 'eavy metal line.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D9-XH5dm_NY
The blue tinted highlight for black armour works for other types of black, like Deathwatch armour and black panels for Eldar stuff. It looks weird to me on Chaos too.
But highlighting something black using blue has been done for years and years. Just think of Superman's hair. It's a way to keep the colour deep and not make it grey/white.
But with most things, it's just a matter of taste and context.
>>98513706
Yeah, I don't think it looks bad and I'm definitely not saying it doesn't take skill to paint, I just think it looks very unnatural. I'm just really really not into that style.
>>98513724
Yes, a sharp point that would naturally catch light looks more realistic if it has a highlight and not the opposite of what would happen.
And yes, you need to exaggerate elements of the paintjob to make it read as what you're intending on the tabletop. But even for display and competition stuff you generally exaggerate things because the minis are so fucking tiny. It's different on big model scale stuff where you can make things a lot more natural looking, but then again, darkening edges goes against natural, so it defeats the purpose.
I really dislike it, but it's a matter of taste and context, and lots of people do like it, so it's all good.
I like seeing a bit of variety either way.
>>
>>98515662
Anon, in your mind, is eavy metal more realistic to this >>98513642
>>
My base looks kind of stupid. Any suggestions for better basing?
>>
>>98513194
>>98515542
Thank you anons.

>>98515504
I'm not sure i understand what you're asking. But generally speaking, no. Except for the basecoat on the beard, i use no black. I don't even prime with black.

I did use some heavier washes to better separate colours and sections, but even those were coloured.
>>
>>98515708
That one of the ones from Mads Minis?
>>
>>98515708
Change out the red on the base for orange so it looks like lava instead of a blob of jelly
>>
>>98515685
Read what I said again and that should be enough answer to you. I didn't say 'eavy metal style edge highlighting was more realistic, but highlighting is. Shading edges is a lot more unrealistic. If you think otherwise then I suggest you look around your room and see how light hits edges of stuff. I don't know what else to tell you.
>>
>>98515750
>That one of the ones from Mads Minis?
Yeah, the girl. It doesn’t come with a base
>>
>>98515761
NTA, but it imo depends more on a personal taste, really. Apart from zenithal, neither of these techniques are "realistic".
>>
>>98514659
>apply paint to bare plastc or (usually) resin
>apply base colors over this
What would you call this? You do know that you don’t need to prime with something that’s literally advertised as a primer, right?

>>98515328
Because craft paint is absolutely horrible for this application. It manages that magical early GW trick of being both too thick while having shitty opacity, and then goes one further by using coarse lay ground pigments that make smooth finishes difficult. Cheap craft glue by comparison is perfectly adequate for flocking and such, which is not really a demanding task. I’ve told the story here in the past about the bad old enamel days where some guys would just lay down a thick layer of paint on the base, sprinkle it with sand or flock, and skip the glue entirely. You don’t need a high performance adhesive for this.
>>
>>98515328
>idk why people here constantly shit on craft paint but refuse to use anything but craft glue.
>idk why people here constantly shit on shit thing but refuse to use anything but good thing
A true mystery.
Your minis are also not helping the craft paints cause, mr. sperg.
>>
>>98515834
I thought crafstperg had stopped sharing painted minis several threads ago
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>>98515843
He's got a bunch ITT, what are you smoking?
>>
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first time recasting a model, left is the original metal
i didn't expect this to be so good
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I honestly have no idea how people do those kind of "black on white" details correctly. Mine is rather messy.
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>>98516042
With enamels and oils. No clue why would anyone torment themselves doing this acrylics.
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>>98515638
I can see the vision, as long as the colors are placed right it'll read as metal. If it was blended a bit more I think it'd show up way more
>>
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>>98516042
>I honestly have no idea how people do those kind of "black on white" details correctly. Mine is rather messy.
Use long tip brush
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rip greatswords you were too hastily painted and died on the first charge
better luck next time
>>98516036
awesome anon its so good it even replicated the flash on his bicep
>>
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Chicken, beans, and rice is proof that there is a higher power and it loves us
Farseer
>>
>>98516075
as the old weapon triangle goes, lances beat swords
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>>98516004
I legit can't tell.

Is it the 2 squads of space marines?
>>
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ok Flesh Shaper fucked up and we ate too much bubblegum. i like how purple team with "no eyes" turned up
>>
>>98516234
That's your surest guess?
>>
>>98511458
maybe for oldhammer, looks boardgame-y. maybe that's the idea?
>>
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Also, tried my best to paint white markings but as they say - sometimes best is not enough.

>>98516074
Tried but began to paint over black details instead.

>>98516048
How that changes the situation?
>>
>>98516357
looking good farsight bro
>>
>>98516302
Anon idk. Maybe that, maybe the dwarfs?

But neither struck me as particularly craftspergy.
>>
>>98516325
That's the idea.
>>
>>98516325
They do feel more game-y. I've got coloured rims on my blood bowl teams for that exact reason.
>>
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I toned down the brightness of the verdigris with nuln oil, does it still clash with the rusty mid-section?
>>
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>>98516360
Really? Good to hear, I thought it looks mediocre. Tried making markings on cloth parts too. I guess they do look mediocre from the close up but maybe nobody will complain.

Model is only for display anyway, I'm not going to play him.
>>
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>>98516393
Poor dwarf anon keeps getting mistaken for me when he's clearly posted hobby paints before.
>>
>>98516420
>avatar or signature use
kill yourself, attentionwhore
>>
>>98516432
as other anon pointed out last time you cried about this, the site has a built in signature function.
>>
>>98516420
Idk man. I like your painting style. And i don't care what you use for painting. It could be mercury infused blood for all i care.

I just like old school painting styles like yours (and like the dwarf anon's i guess).
>>
>samefagging already
kek
>>
>>98516450
You kinda asked for it by giving him (you)s.
>>
>>98516460
that contradicts anons accusation of samefagging
>>
>>98516042
Brush control, you're clearly very shaky and aren't well practiced with your edge highlights.
>>
>>98516460
fair enough, my bad
>>
>>98516450
Post minis.
>>
>>98516501
most pinis
>>
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Got my little diorama for the 40k collage finished
>>
>>98516042
White first, mini makeup sponge black on with dabbing, touchuo
>>
Painting some good old Steel Legion :)
>>
>>98515359
>wood glue
are you working with wood? there are hundreds of different glues out there, including ones made specifically to bond plastic with dissimilar materials. why not use an epoxy type glue?

>>98515806
>What would you call this?
I'd call it painting. there are types of paint that don't call for primer. if I was using one of them I wouldn't call putting down my base color "priming" just because it was the first coat.

>Cheap craft glue by comparison is perfectly adequate for flocking and such
and yet we have people saying that you need to seal your sand to prevent it from falling off. did you ever consider that if you were using the right tools for the job you wouldn't be needing unnecessary steps?

>>98516357
>How that changes the situation?
assuming those are embossed details you can do a reverse wash using enamels. if you're going to paint stripes like that I would recommend masking them so the edges are straight.
>>
>>98516124
Cuteness
>>98516266
Looks pink!
>>98516410
Looks way better
>>
>>98514057
Wow those look incredible too. What’s your technique for the sculpted cloaks, do you make them flat then transfer them to model half way through drying?
>>
>>98516549
Awesome shield
>>98516554
Looks great
>>98515638
Good start
>>98515523
Scale75 is great except their caps, hard as heck to get in America though
>>
>>98516554
Based, Steel Legion is something I want to work on too. Already got some kitbash ideas lined up, 1/35 Jagdpanther + Rogal Dorn, fuckload of wheeled Chimera ideas, it's such fantastic regiment.
>>
>>98516549
Try your photo with no solid background your photo is washed out. I find that phones always fuck up the photo if it doesn’t have a good balanced color and mixed depth backdrop.
>>
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Okay, Da Red Comet with arms and thrusters glued on. Time to work on the base.

But whoever designed those arms sockets had really bad day.
>>
>>98516636
How poseable is the kit anyway?
>>
>>98516636
Looks really good
>>
>>98516641
Pretty much monopose. Arm sockets have those tiny "guidance" holes matching "pins" on arms but these broke off at very first attempt to test fit. Any attempt at changing the pose would require some extra parts, green stuff and the like.
>>
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I got the robes done. I darkened by blue paint to give some darker recesses but I may have gone overboard. For now I am going to paint in the rest and make a call after if I should add more blue.
>>
>>98516658
You're supposed to snip the pins to get it into a custom pose, that's how this kind of kit works. Same as the Riptide.
If you snipped the pins, would you be able to pose it? Or does it have parts that really only fit together one way (like how some space marine arms and torsos are connected)
>>
>>98516799
My main problem was how arm "balls" refused to fit into those round connections anyway. Also, arms themselves are single part each (except hand on sword arm, shield and shoulder plate) and mentioned shoulder plate is supposed to be connected in one position but that's the easiest thing to fix with green stuff. But I'm not very experienced with customizing miniatures.
>>
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Like this.
>>
>>98516678
Perfect amount actually
>>
Ok so I'm just wrapping up my first ever squad of models (Dire Avengers), and I have some some questions...
How in the FUCK do you guys get such fine edge highlights going? I feel like to be better at it I need a magnifying glass and a stiff but very fine brush. What brushes you using for this? I have some #0 off brand sable brushes but idk if it's just a skill issue.
>>
>>98516678
Looks good to me chief.
>>
>>98516862
when its all in the wrist you can manage even with an old shitty brush
dont worry youre motor skills will get honed to a fine precision weapon in time too it just takes a little practise
>>
>>98516862
There are muscles in your hand that you have never developed for these functions.
You need to force yourself through repition and after a year or so you should have the muscle memory and fine control for those functions.
>>
>>98516909

Thanks, I sure hope so lmao. Ive worked construction for a long time so uh my hands and wrists are used to much less refined motions. Does anyone here unironically do exercises/stretches for their hands?
>>
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Finished up testing for my tyranid colors
>>
>>98516862
Make them fat, then go back and clean them up with your main colors
>>
>>98516937
basecoat is little chalky and the gun could be little darker to give it some contrast but other than those pretty good looking cockroach
>>
>>98516909
>>98516922
you should actually be using your shoulder as much as possible when you need fine control.
>>
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>>98516909
>>98516922
>>98516978
>>98516996

Thanks bros for the (yous) and tips. Here's one of my guys.
>>
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>>98517012

My process has been using AK acrylics for the base colors and then I use abtielung oils for the blends. Still refining the process!
>>
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>>98516924
>>98516996
i ment more like this not the actual wrist wrist but im sure they play a role in this silly business too
>>
>>98516862
I've seen someone call it precision drybrushing, which at least gives an idea of how you need to set up the paint
>>
>>98517012
Looks great actually
>>98517016
>abtielung oils for the blends
No idea what that means but if it works it works
>>
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Working on a bigboss between the mass of boyz
>>
>>98517140

Brand of oil paints meant for minis. But what I do it put the base color down and then Ill put a very light coat of oil paint that's also the base color. Then I put my white/highlight color roughly where I want it, and use a clean brush to blend the white into the thin layer of base color how I want it. Then repeat for the shade color. Slowly improving the technique. Defintely need to thin the oils down a touch more next time, will hopefully have the process nailed for the metal banshees in the background.
>>
>>98517258
You can try oil dot filtering instead. Try putting very tiny dots of paint (with a toothpick or something) couple of next to each other. You can combine colors, too - dark where the shadow is supposed to be and vice versa. Or multiple different colors next to each other for weathering.
>>
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It took seven years but finally this rocket ork is done (aside from the base rim)
>>
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I think it looks pretty decent for fdm scatter terrain
>>
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>>98511724
HASHUT
>>
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>>98517917
The original
>>
>>98510897
Thanks for reminding me how they massacred my boys
>>
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I'm such a slow painter, any tips or suggestions are welcomed
>>
>>98516937
Like a wasp hive fleet. Is that contrast with highlights?
>>
>>98515234
He needs another few layers of skin tone (white) to bring him up to codex compliance
>>
>>98518192
Move the brush faster, I guess?
>>
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Learned about inks and patches at a workshop today. Seeing someone who really knows what they're doing behind the brush was a humbling experience, and makes me excited to practice more.
For now, starting on raveners. Good luck for the week ahead, hope it's a nice one and that you all get some paint time in.
>>
>>98516554
slightly more progress

>>98516577
Thanks

>>98516579
I'm going to some sets of the various classic imperial guard armies for display. Am slowly collecting all the classic metal figures from the 90's and early 2000s. So i will eventually be doing the Vahallans, Mordian, Original Metal Cadians and Catachans, Tallarn, Pretorians and Vostroyans. I might get a Chimera to add with these Steel Legion since that's quintessential Steel Legion armour.
>>
>>98517356
Looks great
>>98518335
Patches? Like insignia
>>
>>98518192
Warhammer figures take a lot of time because of trim and details, using a slapchop nethod is faster but its slop chop really, doesn't look good. Using a bigger brush can help and loading up the brush with more paint watered down just a tad more so you don't have to rinse and reload the brush as often but then you rusk the paint drying and getting stuck on brush so that's more for advanced painters, a little more medium with a drop of propylene glycol can slow the drying letting you extend the paint stroke which can speed things up. Honestly at your skill level just take your time and continue to improve. Your model had a lot of surface area and details so it's no surprise it took a long time but it looks tidy so it's all good
>>
>>98518192
Airbrush and enamel or oil washes. That alone accelerates the fuck out of it.
>>
>>98518203
primed white, washed with agrax earthshade, drybrushed white everywhere, familiar pink speedpaint on the yellow plates, drybrush the plates white again, then bad moon yellow on the white plates and occultist cloak speedpaint on the black plates.
>>
>>98515212
Just water down to thicker than milk after the initial glue and dry and brush it on the top layer sparsely and it'll sink down into it sealing that layer well enough to paint it. Just let it dry for maybe 3 hours to be sure
>>
Sword arm transfer complete, this was very delicate work but it turned out pretty good. The arm is actually the pistol arm from the archon kit, with a guardian sword right hand. The left arm is similar, the original archon arm with a hand taken from the corsair kit.
>>
>>98518192
Solar Watch? Nice. I kind of regret putting my bikers on before painting.
>>
>>98519266
Looks great
>>
>>98519296
Thanks anon.
>>
Which purple looks better to you guys? The left or right?
>>
>>98519545
left
>>
>>98508143
>they're probably the most complicated things to use
>What GW didn’t tell us is that the skill ceiling is actually pretty high
How so? It's just sort of wash or you thinned it, wiped it and use it as glaze. How is this high skill ceiling?
>>
>>98517290

Neat! I'll give that a go and see how I can incorporate that technique.
>>
>>98510897
>>
>>98519545

Left for those models (sisters right?). Definitely a more "royal" purple. Right purple has a more chaosy vibe.
>>
>>98509848
I can't wait to see the whole gozonga squad.
>>
New thread:

>>98519918
>>98519918
>>98519918
>>
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>>98519818
>>
>>98518902
Patches are supposedly the correct term for a glaze consistency application of paint that leaves some of it deposited at the end of the stroke. It's a technique you use to blend two colours into each other smoothely or to layer up lighter colours for volume.
>>
>>98518997
Thanks bro
>>98519047
Looks good
>>98519285
Im sub assembling, attaching the left arm isn't perfect but I think I can cover up mistakes with putty afterwards
>>
>>98515525
The fact that he paints better than the average person here with craft paints proving his point most people here do not get a advantage using hobby paint
>>
>>98515523
bro just eyeball it, you don't need a "recipe" add a tiny drop of black and do the same next time, literally no one will ever see a difference
>>
>>98515638
Looks like bone
>>
>>98515721
Yeah was asking how you did the shading between the fingers and such, did you do that with a wash? it's very clean looking
>>
>>98516036
Very nice, you going to share how? there's usually people asking and trying this
>>
>>98516420
I've seen you post better ones
but yeah you are correct that craft paints would be fine for the majority of painters
>>
>>98516862
Practice, after a few hundred minis it gets easier
>>
>>98517258
Nice, oils are so much less stress, Dmitry fesechko has a vid on yt that is the best tutorial for oils
>>
>>98516996
Not at all lol...
>>
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>>98520809
Yeah. I use washes. I use them fairly heavily (green wash on green, brown wash on flesh etc) and then suck up the excess. I try to achieve both some shading and then an almost blacklining effect.

I also started doing washes as a middle step rather than an initial or final one. Having some highlights down already helps me see and control the wash, adding some highlights later helps me fix any mistaxe and definie anything I'd like to have definition.

I finished the dwarfs the same afternoon, and took some picures with the setting sun, so they're looking more orange than they should.
>>
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