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Work in Progress, "Back to Business Thursday" Edition

>Full-size version of today's collage
https://mega.nz/file/TJhnVBrK#T2LeUlKets9TFgV32mCFonHoq0cqd2M7rRiwJw6ctyQ

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin:
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>If you caught him, what would he say?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C11fXPEbBk8

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

Previous threads:
>>98635472
>>98617142
>>98598045
>>
>>98652599
Bless, baker-sama.
>>
File: 1000044087.jpg (3.47 MB, 3000x4000)
3.47 MB JPG
>>98652599
The GOAT
>>
File: 767699090.jpg (381 KB, 2135x3413)
381 KB JPG
I just painted this bird dude.
>>
>>98652692
nice
>>
>>98652692
Cool bird dude
>>
File: 20260910_165946.jpg (171 KB, 716x1271)
171 KB JPG
started my kroxigors today
>>98652692
sick
>>
>>98653269
Cool croc

>>98652692
Cool birb dude
>>
>>98652692
Is that an eyeball on his throat? Horrible in a good way.
>>
>>98652704
>>98653155
>>98653269
>>98653297
>>98653306

Thanks, yes it's a small eyeball, but didn't plan that in the first place. The milliput I used formed like that when I connected the head to the botton part.
>>
>the fat tits witches got featured by warhammer official
Congrats anon
>>
>>98653425
Lmao what
>>
>>98653425
>made me look
fuck you
>>
>>98653425
Sauce or GTFO
>>
File: 1789069627986.png (2.51 MB, 1349x1636)
2.51 MB PNG
started detailing some of the casts to make them more different
>>
File: IMG_0036.jpg (202 KB, 1283x1349)
202 KB JPG
>>98653441
>>
>>98653483
isnt that just a random twitter?
>>
>>98653497
it's some fanmade account on instagram
>>
>>98653768
whatever, its some kind of tiktok social media for kids.
>>
I had a lack of judgment in agreeing to paint the Tau combat patrol that was assembled and primed in the brightest fucking white color I had ever seen, like 9 years ago. I wanted to paint them blue because of the primer color, but the paint didn't stick at all. I said fuck it and decided to strip the paint and ordered the off-white paint set from AK to make them look like the cover. After I left them to soak in the alcohol for some time, I discovered that my paintlet friend not only used the weirdest fucking primer ever, but he also used non-plastic glue, and it got dissolved. Now I need to reassemble every model again. Thanks for reading my TED Talk, and fuck my life.
>>
>>98654474
>acrylic white
You will suffer again, even with the airbrush. Consider lacquers.
>>
>>98654474
No shit he used super glue, that's the standard.
when you use the acid instead you devalue the pieces, a superglued set can be sold and reassembled to suit the taste of the buyer.
>>
>>98654494
I want to master the off-white palette. Acrylic is the faster option for me for now. I know how hard it is to paint white with it.
>>
>>98654506
Nah, he doesn't sell anything. He forgot about this combat patrol for a decade, started listening to the lore videos on YouTube not so long ago, and wants to play the game again, but he can't paint, even if his life depended on it.
>>
Nobody here even plays fucking tabletop games, I swear.
>>
>>98654544
This general is for painting minis and terrain, battle reports are off-topic
>>
>>98654540
>there is no future
>>
>>98654544
Good.
>>
>>98654544
>First game of 11th Edition, 25-JUL-2026
I don't care if Predators go to Legends. It's older than a good number of my opponents.
>>
>>98654540
Anyone can paint if their life depends on it, break into your friends house in a ski mask and threaten him with a knife until he paints his models.
>>
>>98654602
I agreed to it because I love to paint, so teaching him under the knife how to paint would take the fun out of it for me. I just didn't expect the additional hoops that I need to jump through in order to finally paint them.
>>
>>98654625
You could have asked "did you use superglue?" or "what kind of primer is this?"

Instead you just chucked the models he spent time and effort posing the way he wanted, possibly with some degree of meticulousness, into alcohol under an assumption that the guy who doesn't know how to paint and who used primer you don't like, did use the same glue that you do.
>>
File: 20260909_230523.jpg (2.66 MB, 4000x3000)
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Been working on rekitting and refurbishing these ebay rescues that my friend air brushed joker colors. Love kitbashing.
>>
File: IMG_1109.jpg (4.27 MB, 3637x5716)
4.27 MB JPG
Fixed the wobbly titan by breaking and resetting its toes. Wasn't easy because I pinned the shit out of them with three brass rods per toe. I think there's about two meters of rods in total holding it together.
While I have it out I'll do some touchups on the rest of it
>>
Starting out and I've done about 10 minis so far but I feel the need for a kolinsky brush, or two.
Any recommendations for something that's not super autistic and/or pricey but that's also not flimsy cheap bullshit?
>>
>>98653483
Gj dude
>>
>>98655394
>step on Space Wolf
>break your fucking toes
Yeah that's right, FAFO
>>
>>98655401
Beginners do not need that, you need a good tip and you can get it with cheap synthetics, it just won't last long, so just buy synthetics cheap enough that you can literally go through 100 before even coming close to the price of a proper quality brush.
It's really worth it, you don't want to learn on a $30-$60 brush, you want to learn on a $10 mountain of brushes.
>>
>>98655401
dont listen to that retard
winsor and newton series 7
>>
>>98655496
I'd agree but I feel I'm a bit beyond the super entry level area, and I got a bunch of synthetics.
I autistically researched A LOT before starting so I probably know a bit more than the usual beginner, and one of my bigger problems right now is brush control on very tight stuff like eyes and mouth, while brush control comes over time I just cannot get a good pin point dot like control no matter how hard I try, as much as I'm taking care of the synthetics they just don't really have the best tip.
>>98655560
Thanks, any specific size for stuff like face, small edge highlights and overall small detail work?
>>
>>98655560
I'll second that. The series 7 is not expensive and will work
>>
if solvents will destroy weasel hair then what am I supposed to use to paint fine details with enamel paints?
>>
>>98653460
These are awesome.
>>
>>98655575
Tiny little cheap brushes at the art store or amazon. You just have to replace theme very 5 minutes.
>>
Has anyone here used tufts and flocking material on miniatures themselves, not just bases? I've seen the technique used a few times but I haven't tried it myself.
>>
>>98655646
I haven't, but I suspect the glue will still work.
>>
>>98655851

Big, if true!
>>
>>98655857
>anon after using pva glue on a model
>>
>>98655121
The front of the one on the left isn't fully pressed in.
>>
>>98654688
The main issue with the primer is that the paint didn't stick to it, my passive-aggressive hobby friend. The friend didn't give a shit about these models for a decade, and they were collecting dust. My only mistake was not checking if the superglue could be dissolved in the alcohol, because I always use my sweet-sweet Tamiya cement. I got a silver lining because I can now use subassembly and paint every corner.
>>
>>98655575
>then what am I supposed to use to paint fine details with enamel paints?
Don't. That's literally what acrylics are best for.
>>
>>98655861
Apparently it's pretty useful for gluing the transparent stuff onto the StarCraft minis.
>>
>>98656529
Yeah, it dries clear and doesn't make plastic cloudy
It's also handy for other clear effect parts or canopies.
>>
File: 20260909_230833.jpg (3.3 MB, 4000x3000)
3.3 MB JPG
>>98656049
Thanks. Yeah the bases are whatever. One has magnets on it which kills me and I don't have any other clear ones. I'll borrow from a raider I think anyway.

One has an Iyanden head. Gonna add it to the trophy rack painted as is. Respect the original owner.
>>
>>98656661
Not he base, I meant the chassis.
>>
>>98656779
you're right. all deldar vehicles suck to get tight. not surprised that guy gave up on it.
>>
>accidentally primed a bunch of minis using airbrush cleaner instead of thinner
well I hope they aren't fucked up
>>
>>98656790
I'm a deldar player myself, it's not so bad. I'm just pointing it out in case you care.
>>
does anyone have a rec for superglue with the least frosting possible?
>>
>>98657327
VMS Flexy 5k. It's a dedicated superglue for scale modelling photo-etched parts. There's only very tiny amount of frosting, but since it's still a superglue, some frosting is inevitable. You can get it in black version, too, which helps as well.

Otherwise if you are gluing clear parts, just use (watered down) PVA glue.
>>
>>98652599
why do painters here generally mog the 40kg ones, save for a few shared ones?
>>
>>98655564
How many hours gave you spend painting?
<400 beginner
401-1600 intermediate
1601-4000 advanced
4000+pro
rosemary Co is my go to for decent brushes
>>
>>98657373
I don't think it's so much that we're mogging the painters there, it's that we're decrying the general state of /40kg/ because of the *other* anons who smear shit on the walls over there, *despite* there being good painters there, too.

... and I would be remiss if I claimed we didn't also have our own share of dipsticks who frequent this thread as well. It comes with the territory.
>>
>>98656324
but I want to paint like how people do eyes on garage kits.
>>
>>98657373
Because this is a thread about painting so naturally people here are more invested in painting
>>
>stumble upon a god tier sculptor with a ton of awesome sculpts
>...
>none for sale
fugg
>>
>>98657961
Who?
>>
>>98657984
4lex_0z (Alejandro Muñoz)
He has a myminifactory page but there's like 3 random sculpts and I'm not interested in any of them
>>
>>98657528
Could you explain this process a little more and what it is about that enamels that make it easier (or whatever)?
>>
>>98656256
>silver lining because I can now use subassembly
retarded
>>
>doesn't like subassembly
dogshit painter alert
>>
>>98658271
Subassembly is a necessary evil sometimes, but that's all.
>>
>>98658263
What makes it retarded, you sperg? Better control over the places where you want to add more details? You're just angry about some random shit
>>
File: IMG_20260911_125901.jpg (342 KB, 3060x4080)
342 KB JPG
pulled back the highlights on the black armor and did the wraithcannon glow
I've realized I don't have an ochre for the gold lining so I'll need to mix something
>>
File: ThePatrol.jpg (5.83 MB, 3676x2268)
5.83 MB JPG
>We train young men to drop fire on people, but their commanders won't let them write "fuck" on their mobile suits because... it's obscene.
>>
>>98658732
what did you add to that ez8 face?
>>
>>98658751
wait no, you added nothing...why does it look so weird on that angle and color?
>>
File: witnessed.gif (2.01 MB, 500x281)
2.01 MB GIF
>>98652692
From what company is he if i might ask?
>>
>>98657373
because 40kg is a dogshit general so all the good painters/posters either crosspost or avoid it altogether
>>
File: honse.png (1.81 MB, 2197x1271)
1.81 MB PNG
what do you think about this color scheme with mask?
>>
>>98658732
kewl mech anon
>>
>>98658732
woah. deep
>>
>>98657528
Oh I see, that makes more sense then.
The trick is that GKs are much larger scale than the average miniature, so GK builders can just use any old rigger brush to start, and then clean up the edges with a solvent.
I don't know if that technique would even be realistically possible on a miniature-scale face, and I'd imagine it isn't.
>>98658033
Here's a video I found on google, haven't watched it but I imagine it gives a good explanation based on the title and thumbnail https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eflz4jBiYcM
>>
File: IMG_20260912_015304.jpg (1.07 MB, 1638x1309)
1.07 MB JPG
Don't know what to do with the bases, propably just mud and call it done
>>
>>98659420
get some woodland scenics blended turf
>>
>>98659420
Are the models done?
>>
>>98659489
nta, it looks like he's going for a terracotta army kind of deal
>>
>>98659489
Propably yes, if i can be bothered i might do some final highlights on the shields and helmet blue thingies. Also there are lots of uneven lines... but they are for playing so might not be worth the hassle
>>
I dont know how people build models so fast. Its taken me 2 days to build 10 boyz 2 warbosses and a couple nobz. I still havent finished the boyz or drilled any barellsnor gap filled. Mold line removal is slow as fuck.
>>
>>98659782
Many have been doing this shit for decades, that's how.
>>
>>98659782
It depends on a number of factors, tools, method, experience, etc.
I can probably fully assemble a squad in a couple hours, and I use clippers, a knife to clean the nubs, and plastic glue. Sometimes I apply sprue goo to fill gaps. I've been building models for over a decade so I've got a bit of a leg up.
What tools and method do you use?
>>
>>98659831(me)
I do also drill my barrels when needed, but I've been building pretty much only fantasy models recently, so there's been no need
>>
>>98659420
>>98659522
>>98659595
>>98659595
This legit looks like ass. Why even bother posting this here?
>>
>>98659835
Hes already got bad taste for playing cathay. But you should post models if you're going to be gay about it
>>
>>98659338
That was interesting, thanks. Enamel paints can be had in the US last I checked but the (scale modeling/train) hobby stores out in my town have died out so I think the only way for me is to go on line. I remember being told that lacquer paints are illegal though. Not sure if it's just my state on that one.
I like the additive and subtractive aspect to the method. An enamel thinner isn't normally going to just destroy a natural hair brush but it will degrade over time. You can probably mitigate it a bit by cleaning with Turpenoid Natural, which is supposed to condition the hairs on top of act as a cleaner. An old art instructor of mine from ages ago swore by the stuff.
Water soluble oils exist but I don't know if this technique will work with them and I don't know if clear colors are available. I have a few tubes that I use mostly for weathering effects and the occasional panel work because they blend really well. You can draw out the paint and you can get a graded transparency, behaving as an oil based paint but they wash up and thin with water. I've been told they lose that quality if you thin it too much, but they seem to tolerate a fair bit of it yet takes a little work to mix.

Anyway, I won't be able to do any experimentation with the water solubles for a while, I'm stuck away from home for several weeks.
>>
>>98659855
Oh, also brush soap. You can condition the hairs with a nice artists' brush soap.
>>
File: IMG_20250905_140336_1.jpg (535 KB, 4096x3072)
535 KB JPG
>>98659855
>I remember being told that lacquer paints are illegal though.
Double check your local laws, in some places they are illegal to transport by plane because of the fire risk, but I don't know about anywhere where they are illegal to sell/buy/own.
I don't recommend using lacquers for minis though (I'm saying this as someone who has used them in the past). The guy who keeps recommending them is certainly just trolling.
When you're spraying lacquers (you will be spraying them), you need a good quality respirator with organic vapour filters (anything else is not enough), a spray booth to minimise the fumes in the room, some basic safety glasses, and gloves. Not to mention the rest of your airbrushing setup.
>Water soluble oils exist but I don't know if this technique will work with them and I don't know if clear colors are available.
I've seen people use water soluble oils for reverse washing, and you can definitely remove them with just water on a small sponge, but I'm also not sure if you can find transparent colours for them.
>>
File: wulfen kitbash.png (6.72 MB, 3267x1765)
6.72 MB PNG
I'm working on a 13th company space wolf kitbash and have a Wulfen Dreadnought coming in the mail. Some parts like the left shoulder are bare enough i want to add some chaos dreadnought style trim -the big selling point hobby wise is the 13th use cobbled together kit including what they take from chaos units so their whole aesthetic is like 70% space wolf 30% word bearers- but i'm wondering how to do that.

Green stuff seems possible but sketch. Maybe some kind of plasticard or something? anyone tried adding trim to a vehicle or large surface? it seems like something people would surely have thought to do long before me.
>>
File: IMG_20251231_154219_1.jpg (244 KB, 1970x2448)
244 KB JPG
>>98659904(me)
Jumpwind prime metal on the far left is one of the lacquers I've used before, picrel here is another example of that paint.
>>
Man why are reloading primaris marines all sculpted so stupid? Virtually all of them are right-handed, yet when they reload, they always:
>put the bolter to their left hand
>take the magazine to their right hand
>reload
>put the bolter back to their right hand
I don't remember this being a problem with old tacticals. It triggers my autism. Is there some sculpt that actually does this normally?
>>
>>98659908
>13th company
>primarishit
You're a fucking idiot.
>>
File: IMG_20260911_200240.jpg (240 KB, 2212x2950)
240 KB JPG
Think he's done
>>
>>98659945
nobody cares about your slightly taller vs slightly shorter marine tantrums, keep it in your containment general
>>
>>98659945
Nobody cares anymore dude. May as well be screaming about "age of shitmar". Nobody gives a fuck it was always just a scale change.
>>
I'm trying to build some centaur demons and I have run into a problem. I'm using the Slaves to Darkness knight horses as a base, and I have not got any torsos which look good (basically are big enough) to look natural mounted where the horses head should be.

I had considered getting some Kairic acolyte bodies but they still seem like they might be too small, does anyone know of any decent torsos that are a bit bigger that would work?
>>
>>98659997
Kairics are honestly quite big, At least compared to stuff like marines.
>>
>>98659972
>>98659978
You two care.
>>
>>98659908
3mm thick plasticard for flat surfaces, package ties for curves.
>>
>>98660006
ok cool, I'll pick up a sprue to test it then. The knight bodies that were meant to ride them are about the right size, but they make the whole thing look a bit too generic fantasy. And I really want them as ruinstorm demons.
>>
>>98659960
Very nice actually. I think the gun looks a little unfinished though.
>>
>>98659972
>>98659978
>containment general
>always just a scale change
you will never be a real woman
>>
>>98660138
Keep this shit in 40kg.
>>
>>98660160
just report and ignore
>>
>>98660169
agreed, report and ignore
>>
>>98659595
You could just drybrush with some lighter color on the red ones, that takes no time or effort and it would help a lot
>>
File: ez1.jpg (285 KB, 768x1360)
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>>98658751
The only thing I added to the model was the camo cloak.
>>
>>98659904
The lacquers might be a japanese hobbyist thing, as they were primarily from Tamiya, if I remember right. Most of the enamels I had access to back in the day, before the scale modeling shops croaked, were from Testors. Those had the most shelf space, probably because they had a separate Model Masters line, which doubled their footprint. Anyway, I'll try a little experimenting to see what surfaces I can mix with the water solubles, see if any of them work out, if at all.

I don't think there are any water soluble oils that are marketed as transparent but they can be made so by thinning it down a lot, which is what I'm counting on. The pigments are really fine on the ones I have (I'd tell you the brand but I don't remember off hand and I'm away from home for about a month), they may as well be transparent when worked thin. The thing about that though, is I'm not sure I can get the depth from building layers like in the vid, due to the volume difference
>>
>>98659913
Seems okay, I guess. A tad thick, as I kind of expected.
>>
>>98660245
Huh, is this for an actual game?
>>
>>98660265
Yep, part of why I don't recommend using them unless you know what you're getting into.
>>98660247
>as they were primarily from Tamiya, if I remember right
These days I think Mr.Hobby is the most popular, they do the official paints for Gundam.
>see if any of them work out, if at all.
Do report back.
>>
>>98660265
>>98660334
Though keep in mind a bit of the thickness is due to the primer underneath aswell, it's not impossible to get it a bit thinner.
>>
File: 20260802_175359.jpg (2.55 MB, 4032x2268)
2.55 MB JPG
>>98660267
Yup
>>
gunpla-ers GET OOUUUUTTTTT!!!!
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
>>
Started painting a goblin king for my upcoming narrative game. His name is Vorgut the knuckle taker.
>>
Here's the goblin shaman Ragrot fungus breath.
>>
>>98660358
What ruleset if you don’t mind me asking, also I suppose everything is printed down to the base?
>>
File: 20260802_153330.jpg (2.24 MB, 4032x2268)
2.24 MB JPG
>>98660394
The hexagon base is printed. Everything else is gunpla, miliput, and flames of war minis.
>>
File: 20260802_161218.jpg (2.56 MB, 4032x2268)
2.56 MB JPG
>>98660455
Lol, and the ruleset is Gundam Flashpoint.
>>
>>98659904
>a good quality respirator with organic vapour filters (anything else is not enough), a spray booth to minimise the fumes in the room, some basic safety glasses, and gloves.
I would consider this to be part of a good air brushing setup so it's not like you need anything special. people who say to just open the window and spray in a box are jokesters or idiots.
>>
>>98660471
Difference being that spraying acrylics with a shitty setup will probably just get your hands dirty and make a bit of a mess, but spraying lacquers with a shitty setup will literally poison you and give you brain damage.
>>
File: 035353388.jpg (1.93 MB, 2000x1500)
1.93 MB JPG
Okay, now we have a proper mob of neophytes. If anyone knows a way to take a picture of 30 or so minis at one time with a phone and not have it look like shit, I'm willing to absorb your wisdom.
>yeah, it's slopchop and other tricks and shortcuts all the way down
>someone has to rep the hasgamez volume painters in this thread, if not me then who?
>>
>>98660527
>volume painters
craftsperg did it for frostgrave in a week or two with no sloppa
>>
>>98660124
Yeah tried a regular wash over dark grey and had way less of an impact than I thought, probably just gonna paint it manually next time
>>
>>98660543
Craftsperg can eat a dick, and so can you for bringing him up.
>>
>>98660564
you must really like contrast sloppa
>>
>>98660527
I think painting the bases would make them look less jarring. As for photos, really your only option is stepping back and cropping in if you don't have a tripod and software for focus stacking. Light them up from the front too.
>>
File: IMG_2346.jpg (363 KB, 1242x2208)
363 KB JPG
Gonna reclaim and do free handing today. Tips for freehanding red?
>>
>>98660620
and taking the photo from such an extreme top-down angle is no good too, you need a direct face-on shot.
>>
>>98660623
that is the most wash pooling I've ever seen
>>
>>98660638
NTA, you should see the first rhino I ever painted way back in the day...
>>
>>98659420
they look cool, chadthay is based
>>
This just came across my recommended page
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hhT4_0ni6fs
>>
>have a few models I want to paint
>Don't know how to base them, and don't want to paint separately from the bases, which means I need to make the bases first
suffering.
>>
Noob question. Can you guys tell me the difference between overbrushing and sponge tipping? pros and cons?
>>
>>98660862
>sponge tipping
Is that just spongeing? The difference is that one uses a sponge, the other uses a brush. Both methods can create unwanted texture, I'd just recommend learning to paint normally.
>>
>>98660868
>I'd just recommend learning to paint normally
whoa there, elitist...
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Painted up some minis for the Alien board game.
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>>98660749
Fuck it. Ordered some bases off etsy. I'll start them next week and work on something else in the meantime.
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a terminator chaplain
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>>98661023
I see you've started weathering your minis. Good work.
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>>98661023
planet peanut butter was captured and now suppression of planet cat litter begins
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>>98661025
i've changed nothing about how i paint my models (apart from this one being mostly black instead of blue) but i have toyed with my camera and lighting
here's how he looked under the old setup, for comparison
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>>98661068
I remember telling you to change your fuckass lighting months ago.
>>
I left my AK camo putty in a little open container instead of the one with the lid that it came with, and now there is a dead spider that got quicksanded into it. RIP little guy, you should have stayed the fuck away from my hobby stuff though.
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>>98660245
Sweet
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>>98660358
What mini is this?
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>>98659020
It's a cool mask but a giant green piece on a model with otherwise no green on it, besides that gem on the horse's chest, feels a little off. It's very stark. Maybe you could add a bit more green in some other small areas on him.
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>>98661126
Congrats your painting area is haunted now.
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>>98660247
>The lacquers might be a japanese hobbyist thing, as they were primarily from Tamiya
It's mostly a scale modeller thing, which is tied a lot neatly to Japanese scale modelling, ie. gundams and shit. Tamiya, Mr. Hobby (probably the best), and AK Real Colors are the most popular.

>>98660527
Are these printed?
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>>98659020
gaudy
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almost done painting up half the starter box, LI looks like more fun than current games so I'm excited
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>>98661529
All that's left is these three Preds and that's the marine half. there's something immensely satisfying about painting things in this scale
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>>98661529
that's a big ass keyboard
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>>98661553
>>98661553
>>98661553
>>98661553
>>
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I watched grimdark compendiums video on how to use different materials on miniatures and got pretty inspired by it. Has anyone here tried out these techniques and whether they're feasible on smaller models, like 28mm historicals?
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>>98661291
weapons, gem on the front of a horse and helmets, shields gonna have same color. you think its enouth?
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>>98660245
cool where did u get this small ass soldiers?
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>>98661729
Yeah, that should do it. I like the way you did the highlights on those btw
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>>98660607
For volume painting, I absolutely do. That's what it's for. Hasgaemz understand that display painting and slop jobs look the same at 2-3 feet, and functional adults understand that there are only so many hours in a given week. I appreciate the display paint jobs that tend to be the norm here but those folks are painters, not gamers. We have different priorities.

>>98660620
The bases are painted. I'll keep the other stuff in mind.

>>98661416
Hell anon, you can see the print lines on some of them. Normally I'd take a little more care when orienting the heads but this was a rush job.
>>
>>98661583
Historical grimdark?
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>>98661866

No, using historical miniatures as a basis for grimdark conversions. First ideas I had in mind was using the sailing fabric/tobacco paper to make barding for horses, cloaks and belts for humans. Then using the cotton wool for hair, plumes on helmets, manes etc. Fur could be used for, well, fur and fur cloaks. The example models he used in the video were huge, so that is why I wondered whether the techniques are applicable for historicals like victrix.
>>
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>>98658811
The whole body is a deadwalker zombie from Age of Sigmar, the stork head is a conversion from the old bretonnian yeomen standard bearer. WH Fantasy and/or Old World.

Pic kinda related, they don't have a stork in their regiment, but it's the same box set.
>>
>>98661859
if you're a gamer and not a painter, GTFO the lgs and stick to your vidya.
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Fixed the scheme I wanted to do, I think I'm done with the body. Helmet and backpacks to do still
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>>98662511
Sorry my phone is shit
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>>98662511
I asked again in the last thread but what is the purple edge highlighting supposed to be? if you were making a full sized costume like the anon with the prison pink marine what would you do with purple? is it trim?
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>>98662516
>>
>>98662552
I think it's supposed to give the effect of a dark black purple armor, kinda like dark eldars have dark blue green highlights. Mini scales differently, so lighting and color look different than at full scale anyway. I went full into the highlight here, it's not my usual style, but I like the result.

>>98662560
Huh give me one moment
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>>98662560
Yeah I think it's better, ty anon
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>>98661206
HG 1/144 Tieren Ground Type
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>>98661583
>Do not my friends become addicted to water, it will take hold of you and you will recent its absence.
>>
>>98662572
do you really think that it's impossible to paint a marine dark purple because it's too small?
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>>98662595
Much better than the smear it was before. Looks pretty good btw.
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>>98662124
If you want it to look good, you might need to use some different materials, but overall it should work.
For example, I think wool fibers would be too thick to look like hair at that scale, but something with thinner fibers would work.
>>
>>98662694

What material would you suggest for hairs. From experience I know that masking tape would work well for stiff materials like barding and armour plates, but I need to source some very, very thin fabric for sashes, cloaks, ponchos and the like.
>>
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>>98660241
Tried some drybrushing and also some other minor tweaks.

Went with mud for the bases because it suits a wariety of battlefields. Gonna do a quick drybrush tomorrow on bases... also remove that shitstain from the flag that i didn't notice before.
>>
>>98662662
No, but the effect would be different
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>>98662913
That looks soooo much better. Great job anon.
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this nmm custodes was an idea of all time for sure
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>>98662906
I just noticed you said "cotton wool", not "cotton, wool". I think that's fine actually.
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>>98663073
It works on the boots, you seem to have stopped trying and worked sloppy elsewhere.
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>>98663105
yep, what i think as well, time to lay down the brush and come back with more energy later
>>
>>98663098

I found sailcloth from a scale model online store and some synthetic fur, problem is that the latter is advertised for fursuits...
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>>98663073
some of the sexiest NMM i have seen is from Flameon on yt
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>>98662913
wayyy better anon, very cool!
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>>98663237
If it works it works, as long as it's not second hand.
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>>98662173
>nogaemz the post
Imagine being unable to play games and posting on /tg/. What a sad, pathetic existence people like you have.
>>
>>98663237
Wherever you can find your materials, dude. I dropped in at a medical supply shop looking for gauze earlier. Didn't find what I was looking for though. Wanted something for 1/100 (15mm) netting.
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>>98662142
I see, thanks.
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>>98662173
Warhammer is a game and you're posting a the Traditional Games board you retarded faggot. If you to paint use canvas like every other painter in the world.
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>>98663237
What's the matter? Afraid you might like it?
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>>98663613
ESL cant comprehend liking miniature painting for any reason other than gaming.
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>>98663630
Oh I understand why you enjoy 3D coloring books, I'm just telling you to learn your place, pathetic faggot.
>>
>>98663073
Pretty good start. Could use some deeper shadows and blacklining to separate parts or sharp transitions though. But overall it does read about right.
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>>98662913
Man. I wish Cathay had monstrous infantry terra cotta warriors.
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>>98662913
>what
green means your digesting your food too early. The rest of it seems healthy though.
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>>98663632
ntab you need to go back
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>>98663774
You will always be mocked little nogaem.
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You loved the original.
Will you handle the knockoff ?
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>>98663630
you mean like scale models and figurines? that doesn't explain why you would be on the game board painting game pieces that are extremely overpriced compared to other miniatures if you weren't going to play the game with them.
>>
I don't know what the fuck I should work on.
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>>98663984
roll a dice and find out
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Painted another chorf.
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>>98663394
your reading comprehension is shit ESL, that post clearly meant you need to be BOTH to be a miniature wargamer, if you can't/won't paint, go back to vidya.
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>>98663984
Pick a random model to sculpt tits on.
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>>98663878
It's the head of the itty bitty tiny titty committee!
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>>98664022
>>98663984
Do it to a minotaur.
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>>98664022
I mean I have a bunch of models with tits, I don't need to sculpt them on. But I'm a little titted out right now. I think I just wanna paint a little normal soldier guy, but I don't have any assembled and ready to go.
>>
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>>98663868
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>>98664064
yo yt, das -50 points for griffindor biatch, gats me dat poshiunn homewerk foo'
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>>98663868
Looks nice anon, but where the nips at?
>>
I was just thinking about painting a black templar, and... the codex art they're in like blue-grey armor, sort of with a metallic old timey steel armor reflection.
What the fuck was GW thinking? They wear black armor. what is this nonsense?
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>>98664287
Get some new material, sperg.
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>98664287
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>>98660378
Good start anon.

This is a lovely model; where could I acquire one?
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>>98661553
I cackled like a witch, anon
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>>98664367
He's an Oathmark goblin king.
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>>98653483
Based anon. Based.
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I don't want to say that I hate building the minis, but damn GW sure doesn't make it easy to enjoy.
>>
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>>98664891
I've noticed that the minis designed for new players are miserable (this is all space marines btw), but the ones designed for specialist games are almost always brilliant.
Built the new rat ogre recently and it was pretty good.
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>>98664012
nice work!
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the free one
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>>98664898
The thing with those other games, is that they feel at least somewhat justified in the complexity they have. Space marines don't feel like that at all and yet are still basically monopose and a pain in the ass, just for no reason.
>>
>>98655564
>any specific size
really late. I've got a variety W&N Series 7s. I have a set of "normal" ones which are longer, set is from 00 to 4, then two from the Miniature range which are my most used
Size 0 and size 2 Miniature is all I need. They have great points, there's no need to go any smaller
I have a bunch of very cheap synthentics for the dirty work
But I also keep 2 of each size 0 and 2 available and will keep the newest ones aside for special occasions, while the older ones gradually begin to pick up more roles like glazing, metallic highlights, contrasts. The older ones don't hold their points as long during use but are still completely serviceable and can still do pupils and finest edge highlights
I don't use the other W&Ns very often. They hold more paint than the Miniature line and I'll use them for larger things, but for normal infantry stuff it's always the 0 and 2 s7 Miniature
>>
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First time painting a miniature, still fiddling with it, but this is what I've got so far.
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>>98665036
Pretty good for a first model
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>>98659916
Modern manuals of arms do not teach this, but older ones do, so it isn't totally pants on head retarded.
I've even seen people do it instinctively. The dominant hand is dominant, after all.
>>
So fluo paints only last for a few hundred hours before the colour wears out?
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>>98665036
Excellent
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>>98664021
You're still not speaking English properly, but you're a feisty thirdie and I get a kick out of that. I'll make you a deal. Post a WIP of your own and I'll help you with your English. You're not fooling me but maybe with some work, you can fool someone else. How does that sound, my new brown friend? Paint a mini, post the pic here, and I'll try to help you to fool white people into thinking that you're one of them. It's a good deal. You should take it.
>>
Progress on Vorgut and Ragrot.
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>>98665229
Heres his back.
>>
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>>98665237
Heres ragrots back.
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>>98665036
>first model but already fell for the sloptuber rainbow heat shield
bruh get of jewtube NOW
>>
>>98665165
>I've even seen people do it instinctively.
is this some kind of retarded b*llpup thing? you have to be literally handicapped to think reloading with your right hand is natural on any ar or hk type rifle. even ak's with the charging handle on the wrong side it's easier to swap the magazine with your left hand.

>>98665182
I'm not even sure that fluorescent paints are. does it mean glow in the dark ones? there are europium based paints that will supposedly glow for years, but all of the ones I've seen only look white when the lights are on so I don't think that's what people are talking about.
>>
>>98664898
The TOW starter box was a bit painful to build (more the cathay side). Way too much junk and stuff that no one will see or notice. The cannon had a small pin in a hole that is covered by the main body for example
>>
>>98665293
I've heard mixed things about the new TOW kits, especially cathay ones.
I heard that the balloon was one of the best kits in modern times, but the jade giant things are one of the absolute worst and most fiddly kits ever.
>>
>>98665254
Fuck you, I'm adding more colors to it now, it's gonna look like a fucking pride flag buddy.
>>
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>>98661023
he has some friends now
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>>98665278
>b*llpup
No no, that's a whole separate kettle of fish, with which I have zero experience.
>literally handicapped
Not really. Assuming the baseline is very strong preference for your strong hand, then using that hand for everything active makes sense. Do note that this strong-hand-reload technique likely descends from the need to reload from horseback, in which the weak hand held the reins and could thus easily hold the gun, but could not go fish for spare ammo. There was also a period in which the weak hand held and fired the gun (since the strong hand wielded a sword). You therefore did not reload the weapon at all while the sword was drawn, and presumably used the strong hand to reload while holding the gun in the weak hand.
Weak-hand-reload requires increased ambidexterity. Your weak hand needs to accurately manipulate pouch closures, a mag (or clip or loose rounds or whatever), and then insert the mag precisely in the magwell (and potentially then actuate a variety of control surfaces), all while your dominant hand just sits in the cuck chair.
That being said, once you can do that, it is undeniably faster. I've never been taught or taught the switch and strong hand reload, and have never seen a need for it. But I don't ride horses or carry swords. In 40k, horses (and bikes etc) and swords are commonplace, so both reload techniques have a place in the manuals of arms of the various forces (although I doubt that the sculptors did this consciously).

Thank you for coming to my ted talk about the detrimental effects of progressive thinking on the view of archaic reloading techniques.
>>
>>98665380
breh the magazine release button on an ar is literally right under your right finger without having to shift your grip. you would have to have a broken hand of something for it to make sense to not hit the button with your right hand and then swap the magazine with your left. we're talking about rifles here not doing fbi reloads with a revolver.
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>>98665394
kek I know how to reload an AR and I've already said that I don't do the switch and strong hand reload at all. I'm telling you that there is a theoretical reason for an institution to teach that technique (as in 40k), as well as a biological reason why a less trained individual may do it under stress (or a totally untrained person may do it even when not under stress).
You can see combat footage of marines doing the strong-hand-reload even on ARs, Slavs and browns doing it with AKs to this day and cops doing it with magfed sidearms and ARs. When the paper targets start shooting back, monkey brain instincts take over and fine motor skills (including ambidextrous maneuvers) degrade. You're not in control of yourself in combat in the same way as you are when basement larping or playing vidya. In the same way, people shit themselves not because that is the smartest most tacticool thing to do for a 21st century soldier, but because it is a smart thing to do for a primordial monkey and our hardware hasn't really caught up to the existence of machineguns.
>>
>>98665365
Look a bit like an, extremely awkward, 90's boy band...

Painting is nice and neat though. ;)
>>
>>98665365
the good part is that we can a actually see some volumes with this lighting
the bad part is that it actually looks even worse than before
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I might touch up the base again, I'd like it to be a bit yellower but otherwise done
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>>98665528
looks really nice, what method did you settle on?
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>>98653269
I have a couple of Lizardmen from a 1st ed WFB 'Monster Starter Box'. Haven't really known where to go with them. Might try copying this...
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>>98665530
Thanks anon. I did a layer of EC pink then used a lighter pink and then a mix of white and pink, but maybe on the next one I'll do the opposite and just wash in the recesses with EC pink after the lighter pink idk
>>
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>>98664236
I didn't feel confident enough to sculpt them.
They'll have to be painted on for now.
>>
Hey anons, is there a good to cut a big chunk of plastic cleanly ? I'd like to cut some walls of the hivestorm terrain to be able to make two L shapes out of it and make them more modular, or just link them together
>>
>>98665570
>cleanly
Depends on what you mean by "cleanly".
The best tool for cutting large pieces is a hobby saw, but it requires some cleanup afterwards since the cut piece will always have saw marks. But otherwise it's the cleanest cut you can get on pieces too big for a hobby knife.
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>>98665580
As long as I can cut it straight it should be good, I'll check it out thanks
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>>98665569
Is that Lilith? I was building the other dark space elf girl tonight. I, uh... can't put her arms on yet.
>>
>>98665596
That's the leader of one of the WH:underworld's band of DoK. I can't be bothered to remember wich one.
Tactical high heels are the pinacle of drukari fashion.
>>
I can't find any discussion or images despite not being a zoomer and actually knowing how to Google search with tags and parameters, and I've never seen anyone talk about or acknowledge this:

Are your models SUPPOSED to look like dog shit if you look at them from below or flip them over? Like, regardless if you're doing blending for highlight and shading or using washes, the bottom of the model is going to look like ass unless you spent like 33-50% of your time meticulously blending the bottom of an elbow or crotch nobody will ever see like you do with the areas where light actually hits.

I finally got a decent result from normal view only to unluckily catch a glimpse of the horrors that were going on underneath the model and I don't know how to feel
>>
>>98665526
what don't you like about it?
>>
>>98665697
I wouldn't bother about what people won't see 99% of the time. I used to but it's a waste of time and effort
>>
>>98665697
>>98665748
If it's an area that's unlikely to be seen, I sometimes just block it in with pure black to ease my mind.
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>>98665697
Usually they will be pretty desaturated/dark/bland from below or in areas that are hard to see. Not sure how you even caught a glimpse of it since the base would normally block the view.
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>>98665165
>I've even seen people do it instinctively. The dominant hand is dominant, after all.
I've been shooting for nearly two decades now and I have yet to see anyone doing this.
>>
>>98665852
On a range or in combat ?
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>>98665380
So, tl;dr, it's fucking retarded because some noguns GW sculptor based superhuman future soldier reloading style on a western movie from 1930s, that makes doubly zero sense with bolters.
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>>98665855
Yes.
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it started well but gonna end up bad
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>>98665882
That's the problem with NMM for me, you kinda need a lot of effort just to look "good", and if you don't it looks like shit.
As you said the legs are good but now there's all the rest
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>>98665893
should've stopped on flat armors
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>>98665882
I think it looks pretty decent but just like >>98665893 said: NMM looks good if you know the technique pretty well and the result looks like it's supposed to. Everything else looks sloppy, bad or just decent like in your example.
>>
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>>98665893
>>98665907
i think decent nmm can get appreciated at an LGS or small paint competition. i'll never be a golden daemon finalist, that's all
>>
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>>98665933
fuck my fag paraguayan ass
>>
>>98665933
I personally like painting cartoony NMM which fits the rest of my painting style. It lets you be a bit lazier when you aren't aiming for realism
>>
>>98665933
Saurus with gekko-like feet so they can wait for you on the ceiling.
>>
>>98665965
>the trees start to speak saurian
i ain't no grey seer brood-litter
>>
Does anyone know of a good black flame decal sheet? Trying to paint bad moons and I can't draw/paint flames for the life of me. They come out with a silhouette of something you'd find on Bad Dragon. I've looked up tutorials and I just don't get it.
>>
>>98665852
>I have yet to see anyone doing this
I haven't personally seen any Africans eat each other in my three decades of being around them either, but it sure does happen anyway.
>>98665859
>some noguns GW sculptor based superhuman future soldier reloading style on a western movie from 1930s
Possibly, but the question is whether it could make sense in 40k.
>makes doubly zero sense with bolters
This is a lack of imagination on your part.
Take scouts or assault marines with knife/chainsword and bolt pistol. I don't know any nu-lore, but back in the day, all marines went through at least one (or both?) of these units before becoming tactical marines. The first manual of arms they'd encounter would therefore be based on this weapon combination. Depending on doctrine, the blade very well could go in the dominant hand (which it should, for a melee unit) and the pistol then goes in the weak hand. Bolt pistol reloads are therefore made with the dominant hand (with the blade mag-sheathed or whatever), while the weak hand simply holds it.
Now, when they start using bolters, they of course use the bolter in the dominant hand, but being accustomed to reloading with the bolt pistol in the weak hand, it could be either institutional doctrine, hypno-conditioning or mere user preference to switch the bolter to the weak hand when reloading.
>inb4 official lore says xyz
>inb4 scouts were sculpted holding the pistols in their right hands
>inb4 nu-40k is tacticool ultra-moderns with fastmags and chest rigs
>>
>>98665997
Lore-wise, marines don't have a dominant or weak hand, they are fully ambidextrous. Which makes the reloading even sillier.
>>
>>98666016
I assumed as much, but I thought I'd humour the idea that they weren't for a moment.
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How does one get trim painted without losing ones mind?
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>>98666138
Losing one's mind is the way, anon. It all gets better once you're there
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>>98666138
>How does one get trim
Show her your space marines.
>>
>>98666138
have you tried acrylic pens?
>>
>>98665195
>speaking
I'm sorry to hear about your learning disability.
>>
>>98665254
>Paints a flamer barrel in a way that's realistic and eye catching
>This is a problem because Jews?
>>
>>98666714
Jews are experts on fictional flames desu
>>
>>98666138
One of the big problems is that you're working with yellow, which tends to lack good opacity. I hear there are some pretty decent yellows out there these days, though. You can try dressing up with a layer or two of white before laying down the yellow if you're having trouble with that. It's a pain in the ass for sure.

If you have a bunch more of these guys to do, you can maybe paint the trim and avoid the inside edges meet, then fill that corner with an extra fine pen like another anon suggested. I like Sakura Pigma Micron pens but I find they can clog and/or dry really easy, so they're a different flavor of pain in the ass.
>>
>>98666721
I tip my tiny hat to you.
>>
>>98666714
NTA but that's now how heat shields discolor, if you're welding or torch cutting steel, yeah you'll see rainbow coloration, but heat shields are made for heat exposure and all they get is a little bit of yellowing and buildup of carbon.
>>
>>98666714
real life flamethrowers are just covered in brown and black. black from the carbon build up and brown from the unburned oil.
>>
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What acrylic dark metallic paint can get me close to a dark metal tone like pic related? I'm not keen on mixing paints yet if a pre-made alternative already exists.
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I spent most my time today assembling and priming a Paragon Warsuit. I did get some painting done though.
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>>98667868
maybe try whatever silver you have and give it a heavy dark wash afterwards
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>>98666138
There is virtually no trim here what are you on about
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>>98668020
NTA
There's a good deal of trim visible on those mk3 marines
And he's working with yellow and black, the margin of error is very slim
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>>98665441
space marines don't get nervous

>>98665570
it depends on how thick the plastic is and what kind. if it's a styrene sheet you can score it with a knife and then break it. if it's an acrylic pane or something you'll have to cut it with a saw.

>>98665735
I've always defended your choice to avoid shading but I'm also the one who always shits on your bases.

>>98666714
it's not realistic. have you ever seen a real flamethrower? do you even know what causes the rainbow pattern? you were just told "this is realistic" by some sloptuber and believed it because you didn't know better and now you're repeating it so it will propagate to other people who don't know either. break the chain of ignorance.
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>>98667868
If you want a dark metallic bare metal color, you can try taking a soft graphite pencil (like a normal 2B or something softer) to it. I use it for worn edges on the tracks before hitting more freshly worn and cut spots with a lighter metallic
Works well as a basic worn gun metal too
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>>98668183
You can also mist it with white spirit to fix it in place. Just don't breathe the mist.
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>>98666138
When I can, I paint in sub-assemblies. Most Space Marine models are a blessing for this, as all the little worky bitz would already be separate pieces IRL. Paint the trim on the pauldrons (do any edge highlighting you want while yer at it!) and *then* glue them onto the shoulders.

Even on some of the ETB or push-fit models - like the fellow on the right here - you might have separate arms or guns that you can leave off until later stages to make access to trim pieces easier.
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>>98666138
Put on some music and just get into a flow state
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>>98665380
Nobody switches the weapon to their weak hand to reload and you trying to be a "well actually" faggot is just showing how little experience you have with firearms.
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>>98668378
If someone is writing walls of text like that, you can safely assume they have no idea what they are talking about.
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>>98665441
No, you don't see combat footage of them doing that. You're a fucking retard apparently so no point arguing with you.
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>>98668400
Nearly all of the shit he said is nonsense. I hope it's not professional fartist now attempting to also be a professional shooter.
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Battle standard bearer done
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>>98666138
Learn to enjoy it, visualizing how nice it looks when painted neatly always helps me through the process
>>98667918
I love your sisters anon, the armor and robes look fantastic
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I think I hate AP, paint so thick and not-flowy that I have to glaze or else it leaves lumps on brush liftoff
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more shit from armageddon
need to improve text freehands
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>>98668699
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Why is GW INCAPABLE of engineering kits that don't have obvious lines straight in the middle of flat surfaces?
You would think with the advent of the CAD advancements they made they would be like
>wow, look, we can now make more complicated parts that are BETTER at hiding stuff
but instead they were like
>wow, now that it's just a 3d model we can slice it up however we want... let's cut the torso in half diagonally through 4 separate pieces of overlapping armor just because we can do that now
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I’ll print more houses to replace the building that doesn’t quite fit. Do you guys know the best way to make wheat fields?
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>>98669218
Why would they? Everyone will buy them anyway. You included.
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>>98669218
They supposedly have artists splitting the 3d models into parts and making the sprue layouts instead of engineers.
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>>98669218
it's split up to optimise sprue space so you can waste less plastic, pump them out faster, and put more in a box and then a truck
that it also makes providing alternate options and using pieces in conversions harder is (mostly) just a happy coincidence
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>>98669259
Not sure if you could get rug swatch samples or a floor mat, but those can work. You can just lay down a square of it if you want the lower end of effort, or can cut strips and lay them down in rows. Another option is to stab clumps of bristles from a cheap brush into some putty/putty-like medium on whatever base you choose. You can also putty up the edges a bit to build up bare earth.
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>>98669356
It's no split up, compromise, or any other cope. It's GW laziness, simple as.
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>>98669422
Ah yes, when it comes to corporations laziness is a much better explanation than greed.
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>>98669422
What on earth do you think the words "split up" meant in my post?
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>>98669356
>we're trying to optimize for plastic use
says company that produces the most overpriced plastic bits in the world. Oh nooo, an extra 1.5c of plastic per sprue! wow is me.

Anyway, I'm done for the night I guess. I have to wait for greenstuff to cure on the totally unnecessary gap I had to fill with magnifying glasses on and have to wait till it's hard to sand it properly before priming it.
Oh wait, before finishing building it because it would have been impossible to fill or sand if the arm was on because while it doesn't obscure the visibility of the gap it obscures the access of the tools to the gap. Bravo GW. It only takes 2 days to build 1 single mini because of your engineering.
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>>98669356
>it's split up to optimise sprue space so you can waste less plastic
I would politely disagree. When you compare GW sprues and basically any solid scale model company, you'll immediately see the sheer waste GW does. THICC ass sprues with THICC ass connectors. Speaking of, where normal scale models use 1-3 thin connectors, GW tends to use at least four, even to hold pieces that have less plastic than the connectors themselves. Larger pieces usually don't even come on the sprue with scale models, and there are many more examples like that. All I said applies twice with Gunpla and other miracles of Nip engineering autism.

I think it's just good old incompetence and GW generally being about a decade behind current scale model trends at any given time.
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>>98661740
They're NATO infantry from Team Yankee.
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Finished painting and put together another model. I think I finally have enough models to give them all the same bases, so I think that's going to be the next project.
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New thread:

>>98670191
>>98670191
>>98670191
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File deleted.
>>98669356
meanwhile scamdai can manufacture whatever the hell this is and sell it for less money per kit.
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>>98669553
why not use something that cures fast like 5 minute epoxy or uv resin?
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>>98668079
>space marines don't get nervous
Are you incapable of reading a sentence in full context?
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>>98668378
>>98668400
>I haven't seen it so it doesn't exist and has never existed
Life must be blissfully simple for you.
>>98668397
>engaging with the topic means you're wrong

Anyway, seeing as how you are in no way attempting to refute the (granted, obscure) historical facts or the (well known among professionals) facts about fine motor skill degradation, and are now resulting to random ad homs to justify your seethe and spite at 40k for not being tacticool enough (!), I think we can safely end the interaction here.



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