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Work in Progress, Pre-Friday Edition

>Full-size version of this thread's OP collage:
https://mega.nz/file/jNBBCbYB#AXq9qqEjJVIhHqVEM67fGx0XVs25m3AMMfvJHb_5MMM

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin:
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>And as the dawn begins to break
>She's gone, it's hard to take
>It's such a lonely world
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pusUuC0Y2yg

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

Previous threads:
>>98670191
>>98652599
>>98635472
>>
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Chud squad, reporting for duty
>>
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I'm trying to work OSL onto the spear and I'm not sure if it reads well. I'm thinking the "fuller" part of the spear needs to be brighter but I have added a lot of thinned down white/yellow in several coats and but I don't think it's helping.
I could also just be overly critical on myself.
>>
Painting women is scary because the details are much finer than on male models.
Painting black is scary because it's goddamn black.
So painting these goth ladies is terrifying. I started with a layer of black contrast paint and it's not really contrasting. What the fuck am I going to do for highlights on their clothing? Light purple drybrush? Hell.
>>
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>>98689889
And of course I forget the picture.
>>
>>98689883
light from what and where?
>>
>>98689883
imma be honest it just looks like a weapon made from green metal, doesnt read as osl/glow at all
>>
>>98689892
You're not at the level yet where you need to be so concerned about "fine" details.
Keep painting, it takes time to get there.
>>
>>98689895
Im not sure what it's called but the hollowed out part of the spear blade
>>98689897
The honesty is apperciated. I'm at the point of trying to make it work or scrap it and just paint it metal.
>>
>>98689883
I think your main problem is that it's chunky so it's never going to look like glowing metal no matter what color you make it
>>
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I finally feel like I'm making meaningful progress on my Raveners, I just can't decide how to paint the neck and 'midriff' areas
>>
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>>98689883
Hit the center with pure white, put some yellow over it if it's too much, but start there.
>>
>>98689994
I really wish I had of seen this before starting over. I'm sorry for the wasted effort. Still saved it for a later project.
>>
I'm not sure that I like miniature painting.
>>
>>98689716
what chapter? looks like gene stealers
>>
>>98690008
What do you like?
>>
>>98690005
That's fine, you'll get it. And yes, it's fuller. It makes a blade sturdier.
>>
>>98690084
I don't know anymore.
>>
>>98689889
>>98689892
these look like fun to paint
if it was black legion contrast, that's a much more solid color so i wouldn't expect it to do much contrasting. it's the only black i use now
if it was me, i'd either give the black a second coat or a coat of nuln oil to smooth it over a bit, then highlight twice. not drybrush. i use a mid and a lighter gray. the little contrast work the black did will show the main bits to pick out with whatever highlight color you choose
skin basecoat looks blotchy. if mine, i'd want to smooth it out with lighter glazes, all except deepest recesses, then highlight up to very pale
the scary bit for me would be doing the heavy goth makeup on the delicate skin
i think the undercoat should be smoother to start with if you're going to basecoat with contrasts
>>
>>98690008
Then don't do it.
>>
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>>98690080
Just my own chapter. Been painting them with those colors since I was like 13
>>
>>98690153
damn
>>
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>>98690126
Thanks for the advice anon. The models are indeed a total pleasure despite my stress - goths/deathrockers kit by Slow Death Games. I am actually having a lot of fun.
Used Black Templar contrast, was torn between that and Army Painters' black contrast. Should have done a gray base coat in a conventional paint. You're also right that my undercoat of brush-on primer was totally inappropriate for the task.
Since my last post I added a bit of Army Painter quartz skin to smooth out and pale the skin tone (they're vampires after all) and I think it helped a little. The one lady's face on the right needs a serious rescue though, it got blotchy bad. The big question is how much detail I'm able to pick out on the faces vs turning them into an unreadable blob. I really want to give them lipstick, but a single mistake would be this huge thing to fix, probably would even need to scrape away paint with a hobby knife at a certain point and run it back rather than keep adding layers. I'd like to avoid that. Think the clothing can be attacked with drybrushing alone since it's mostly cloth folds and lace patterns?
>>
>>98690207
getting robbie rotten vibes
>>
>>98689908
runnel IIRC? it's there to make blood flow so the blade doesn't get stuck in your opponent.
I'm with the other anon, it's just green metal to me, a good look, but not glowing. better before the extra white.
>>
>>98690316
ALRIGHT!
>>
File: luvdoggo.png (1.46 MB, 1080x1075)
1.46 MB PNG
Haven't picked up a brush in over a year, but finally decided to paint a few random primed minis that have been sitting around. Really had fun with this doggo in particular. I just wish I could actually play any of the specialist games that I buy for, but man is finding players that I find tolerable really difficult.
>>
Looking to try out some turbo dork shift paints next paycheck. Any tips or advice for me? Website says to apply over black in multiple thin layers, but I was wondering if sponge application would still require such? And what’s the best way to go about highlighting? Dry brush one of the 2 colors to make it the main?
>>
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And finished on this one. I need to get a pic of the whole squad later.
>>
>>98690509
Looks really good. I'm proud of you.
>>
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>>98690316
They all look like chuds to me.
>>
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What's a good way to practice painting cloaks when you don't have any cloaks to paint?
>>
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Deathwatch proxy kill team.
>>
>>98690593
>fold some masking tape into a cloak shape and apply PVA glue to harden it
>sculpt some out of putty
>buy reaper bones
>3d print something
>paint some plastic spoons and forks
>>
File: 20260917_230557.jpg (2.3 MB, 3919x2396)
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Almost done with some skeletons. I still need to finish the bone highlights and add the green glow in the eyes.
The musician has a bell, since I didn't have an appropriate trumpet.


>>98690661
Really nice and full of character.
>>
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I wanted to buy some vallejo model colors because they are 30% off, but found there are two types of them like pic rel
The one on the right is what I was looking at and it's like half the price of the left.
I assume the left one is newer and with something better in the formula or what?
>>
>>98690864
Left is new, yes, but better is questionable. Most people I talked with says that new formula is in fact worse than before. From my experience it's hit and miss - some are just the same as before, some are worse.
>>
File: 20260917_232220.jpg (1.02 MB, 1920x1080)
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I made a mistake.
>>
Honker duckers have entered the chat. Quacker dackers? Fowl teats? May the modeled bosoms continue to BAZOOM!
>>
>>98690878
I see, thanks
>>
>>98690893
baby I'm about to make one too
>>
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>>98690893
>>
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i think these prison tiles are finally ready to paint
>>
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It's getting worse.
>>
Is Vallejo's gloss varnish exceptionally strong because I struggle to get it matte with anything except AK's ultra matte.
>>98691631
You're going to cum on that duck, aren't you...
>>
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>>98690893
>>
>>98690557
Let's see the army
>>
>>98690557
I think we're losing sight of the real questions here, which are, "what is your chapter called?" and "do you have a Johnny painted in your chapter colours?"
>>
>>98691641
>You're going to cum on that duck, aren't you...
who wouldn't?

don't forget to varnish it first
>>
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>>98691641
Hey man, we all get weird commissions.
>>
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Worked a bit on the wolf demons. Made three different types of plates and replaced one tail with a club. Sadly I don't have any more similar mace heads in my bits box.
>>
>>98691853
What's up with her mouth?
>>
>>98691887
>greater demon of slaanesh
>>
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>>98691954
>>
>>98691986
Oh shit, the only thing missing is the bags under her eyes.
>>
>>98692046
You don't see them? When you advance to the rank of grand wizard you can x-ray vision right past the fakeup as a passive action.
>>
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>>98692055
You're right, I see it now.
>>
>>98692084
kek
>>
>>98692084
At least you're a wizard, but having to spend an action on it means you've got a ways to go.
>>
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>>98691839
This is the 1k I'm taking to a game this weekend
A mix of models done recently and models from 10 years ago
>>
>>98691954
It's called being cute. it's just like a little quirk that adds character.
>>
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> V12.0Brush Cleaning System
>>
>>98692255
Fuck off
>>
File: 1419623638128.gif (2.12 MB, 282x285)
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>>98692255
>reposting facebook shit on 4channel
actually
>using facebook in the first place
consider suicide, please
>>
>>98690893
Is that a garage kit or are layer lines finally not visible on curved surfaces?
>>
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>>98692255
>>
>>98692225
Brother, that's cope. Cute is more like >>98692375
>>
>>98692157
They mix pretty good anon. I'm not noticing from this distance anyway.
>>
>>98692462
People have different preferences, but if you think that sugs or katie are objectively unattractive, then I'm sorry to tell you but you will never be happy.
>>
>>98692478
Joke's on your, I'm already happy.
>>
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I painted another zombie/mutant for my diorama, eyeball is made out of milliput.
>>
when does one use a 00 brush? and how? the paint dries so fast
>>
>>98692523
You use it when you need it, and you use it fast but carefully
>>
>>98692523
you don't, you use a 2 with good point
but if you insist, use retarder
>>
>>98692523
you thin the paint more so it flows better, I use it for very small details that are hard to reach with a bigger brush
>>
>>98692350
nta, if you print with a fine enough layer height a layer of some primer with a bit of body can make them dissapear in most cases
>>
>>98692523
>when does one use a 00 brush?
Doesn't mean anything, there's no standards for brush sizes.
>the paint dries so fast
use retarder
>>
>>98692618
0.6mm - diameter
4mm - length
>>
>>98692559
For ridiculousky fine tuned FDM in limited pise cases.
For resin, even a budget modern can have layer lines vanish if you just use antialiasing in your slicer.
>>
>>98692855
im talking about resin, antialiasing works in the xy plane, it doesn't solve z stepping on shallow angles
>>
>>98692960
You don't position at 45 degrees?
>>
>>98693093
a sphere at 45º is still a sphere, so unless your model has a 'magic' angle some parts will still have problems
>>
>>98692523
My daily driver brushes are 00, and my fine detail brush is also a 00. They're very different sizes.
>>
What do whe think?
Smells like a cash grab https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mUa6cUs0CUs
>>
>>98693149
A sphere won't have layer line issues with antialiasing on unless you're using a ten year old resin printer.
>>
>>98693214
I'm not watching that. why does warhammer need a new 150 paints, they have a ton of paints already. Are they for something specific or just more slightly different shades?
>>
>>98693214
Buy. A. Fucking. Ad.
Your bosses can afford it.
>>
>>98693214
>shitass pots
>buying Citadel paints in year of our lord 2000+30-4
el
ol
el
>>
>>98693234
Extreme coverage. Video shows them paint bright yellow over grey undercoat with one layer.
>>
>>98693264
lying. okay, gotcha.
>>
>>98693214
>next level coverage with a single application, even white and yellow
Big claims.
>>
>>98693264
So, like you can do right now? Without GW paints?
>>
>>98693214
Why the fuck do GW always completely refresh their paint range every like 10 years? Oh you used one of our paints for your army's paint scheme, enjoy being completely fucked if you want to maintain continuity.
>>
>>98693214
Why the japanese packaging? Are they trying to trick people into thinking it's mr. hobby or something?
>>
Sorry, Didn't know /wip/ was taken over by elitist snobs.
>>
>>98693343
>buying cheaper, better performing paints is elitism
It's just not being retarded.
>>
>>98693343
Which posts are you talking about? I'm not really paying attention.
>>
>>98693214
>all these em dashes in the article
James, you cheap faggot.
>>
>>98693295
It's a very overoptimistic claim, especially after users are still going to be thinning the paint to an appropriate consistency. It'll be alright at worst, though, GW has good r&d.
>>
>>98693333
It's dual language, maybe their market in Japan is growing?
>>
>>98693527
Then make a label for the ones that get sent to japan. I don't want it on my bottles. Vallejo, pro acryl, AK etc don't have that shit on them.
>>
>>98693483
Probably, we'll see the reviews soon enough.
>>
>>98693547
>Probably, we'll see the paid for reviews soon enough.*
ftfy
>>
>>98693483
that still doesn't give me a reason to buy it, I already have 25 bottles of paint.
>>
>>98693214
Making a light-to-dark system like army painter makes sense for the audience gw is selling to.
>>
>>98693598
True. If only they would sell it in droppers and not for like $8 or whatever the fuck they will ask for
>>
>>98693572
Just ignore the paid ones, it's not hard.
>>
>>98693659
That's all of them
>>
So a couple of weeks ago I posted that I was planning on trying to make some megalithic terrain. While I initially wanted to go with something cromlech-like first, I went for the caern first.

I made four attempts with cheap polystyrene. I've covered them in wall filler putty I had at home (both to cover the many holes left in the polystyrene, this type is the one that looks like it's made out of tiny balls, so cutting it left many holes where the plastic was badly cut out).

Now I'll try to cover it with the terrain. My fear right now is to make it look like a proper grassy hill. On the doors, I have many decorative tiny stones, so I can just use those for the entrances, hopefully they fit.

Any feedback/suggestions for now? I've never made terrain before.
>>
>>98693598
It also makes sense for army consistency, but I'm still not buying those pots at double the price per ml of other paints.

>>98693676
No. Plenty of smaller channels that don't shill.
>>
Do they really need 5 paints when they already have 3 in each group?
>>
>>98693697
>Plenty of smaller channels that don't shill.
Got any names?
>>
>>98693697
Kek, that's funny.
>>
>>98693680
A little too much fondant, but otherwise they look delicious.

I think the transition from ground to hill might need to be more gradual. These might end up like grassy igloos.
>>
>>98693701
Gradients of 5 look nicer on a store shelf.
>>
>>98693721
No, I don't sub to them, I just look around youtube when I wonder about a product. I look for a matter of fact title/thumbnail and a shitty camera/mic.
>>
i already have more than enough paint
"PRO" drybrushes...
Might sample the paints in a store at some point but not seeing a want/need for anything currently
>>
>>98693810
>the ones with a shitty mic are not paid, nor they received the product for free
Anon, I...
>>
>>98693842
At this point, the only way to be sure they aren't doing quid-pro-quo is for them to drop a slur during the video
>>
>>98693746
I think the transition from ground to hill might need to be more gradual.
I thought of that as well, though I imagine once I add the terrain, I can compensate for it somewhat.

Also, I ran out of wall filler putty.
>>
File: 1000024864.jpg (1.34 MB, 2347x1435)
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Basecoats done for the grand cannon crew. Propably gonna try and finish the starter box cathay portion this weekend
>>
>>98693914
>Actual lemon yellow
I love you anon. These guys look like they're on the cover of some sixties adventure novel, the level of color vibrancy is actually really nice.
>>
>>98693842
Not likely, but it's really not that hard to differentiate between a shill and someone who's genuine.
>>
>>98693680
you need more filler in that filler, mix it with sawdust or ground up cardboard or something, get some gloves and spread it with your fingers, you will have a lot more control
you need a VERY sharp blade to cut foam (and foamcore) properly and it will dull fast

>>98693901
>wall filler putty.
wood glue(pva)+sawdust, or toilet paper/newspapers drenched in thinned pva
>>
Who is the pretty lady that GW invited to preview the new paints?
>>
Assuming I won't play Wh40k but have Hive Tyrant and just want to have fun painting him - would it make more sense to build him as ground version or flying one?
>>
Ninjon is literally just making shit up in this video about the new paints. This is why you don't fall for wine and dine sessions, we're just going down the games journo path but a few years behind. somebody pays for your hotel and suddenly you are completely ignorant about everything except what the company told you moments before.
>>
>>98694703
Yeah, but it's fucking Ninjon, you look at one thumbnail and you know he's in it for the money.
>>
>>98694723
Erik Swinson's gonna talk about them tomorrow, said they're good though.
I think it's going to be a funny contrast of Erik probably just being like
>Yeah, they're pretty good, but you know, they're not going to make you a better artist
vs. ninjon's
>they are the second coming of christ. Also white apparently is known for having bad coverage, and somehow satin medium is required to get the paints to work properly because it just is
>>
>>98694703
Are they not just GW doing premixed 5-tone gradients?
>>
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Finished the last dude in my spectre killteam, I tried doing OSL for the first time and I think it turned out alright. I was wondering how to blend the glow from the barrel and plasma coils together. I'm assuming like a very light drybrush of white where they meet in the middle? I haven't varnished this guy yet so I could probably do that.
>>
>>98694746
Yeah, Erik is a real one. I don't trust anyone's judgement blindly, but I'm pretty sure he'll just call it like it is.
>>
>>98694792
just my opinion but I would darken the OSL a bit, if it's the same brightness/brighter than the glow source it doesn't read as well
>>
>>98694762
No, they're magic apparently. Ninjon is buying into and spreading the idea that modern brands use dyes and liquid pigments (they don't, this is a myth spread by the guy who patreon's those color palettes sthaly, or something like that). I guarantee the white is still using titanium pigment.
The only difference (speculatively) is that they are actually more saturated and have better coverage because of a different medium mixture that allows high pigment content while maintaining decent flow out of the pot.
>>
>>98694703
>>98694723
>>98694746
>>98694762
>>98694852
>>>/vt/
>>>/lgbt/
>>>/40kg/
>>
>>98694792
Cool. But I agree with the other anon. Start to glaze in blue towards the further parts of the glow and I think it could look really good. Just take it slow to build it up carefully.
>>
>>98694866
>don't talk about the new paint release in the painting thread
fuck off. if there is one time when this is valid it's about new paint releases.
>>
>>98694816
Yeah makes sense. I am happy with how it looks but I'll keep that in mind for any OSL I do in the future.
>>
>>98692472
Thanks, one benefit of keeping the same color scheme for 15 years. I just say the older guys are from a different company
>>
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>>98692350
The layer lines were a lot more apparent before I primed, and you can still see them if you look close.
>>
>>98694879
You are gossiping about fagtubers. There's nothing to talk about regarding the paints.
>>
>>98694956
We're talking about which ones are a good source of into on the new paints.
>>
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>>98694792
>>98694816
I saw the blue torso in the thumbnail and was about to get excited about greasing some Norts.

South Side, YEAH!
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FWW0L1g8YA4
GW won lmao
perfect one coat coverage of white and yellow paint over black
>>
>>98695220
kys faggot
>>
>>98695232
you're a tranny lmao
>>
>>98694933
>Shitter's clogged
>>
There's some of the new warhammer paints that don't look too bad. I guess it depends on the price, I don't want to be paying $10 for a paint pot.
Blackstone void looks like it has some nice greys to it.
Seraphon blue looks like it might have the kind of teal I like.
>>
>>98694879
Here I'll condense it for you, these new GW paints are for complete fucking morons. You can easily get enough tones with 2 or 3 paints, having FIVE premade mixes is an utter ripoff and if you buy even a single set of those you are an absolute fucking retard and deserve to be nickeled and dimed by GW till the end of your miserable life.
Now fuck off back to /40kg/
>>
>>98695220
Do people genuinely believe white had bad coverage? White is very explicitly an opaque pigment. Yellow, okay maybe, but white is what GW fucking ADDS to their other paints that turns them opaque and desaturated for Base paints. Why the fuck is GW gaslighting people like this? The problem with white is large pigment size, and tip dry. He mentions tip dry is a non-issue, and that's big if true, but wtf are we talking about 'white finally has good coverage!'?
>>
>>98694672
You can get both if you can get your hands on a 3d printed chest.
>>
>>98695305
>Do people genuinely believe white had bad coverage?
It might be that people got burned by the chunky Citadel whites and off-whites. A decent white from GW would be a welcome change.
>>
>>98694160
>you need a VERY sharp blade to cut foam (and foamcore) properly and it will dull fast
Really? Is foam really that bad for the blade?
>>
>>98695408
NTA, yeah. Frequent honing can help a lot though, you don't need to replace the blades.
>>
>>98695384
>A decent white from GW would be a welcome change.
Is concept of buying paints from a different company a difficult idea to grasp for you, anon?
>>
File: MechDellalineup.jpg (1.53 MB, 3483x1080)
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Well, that's all the work i'm gonna do on this.
>>
>>98695475
You should finish the base, though.
>>
>>98695493
Oh she stands up on her own. I just have the base tacked on so I had something to hold onto while I was painting.
>>
>>98695428
>Is concept of buying paints from a different company a difficult idea to grasp for you, anon?
No, but I'm not the only guy painting here, either. I suspect many of us have cursed GW's shoehorning a pot of White Scar into every paint recipe and starter set since 2006.

If I need a bright white, I use Reaper's Pure White, and OKC-anon gave me a bottle of VMC Ivory for Christmas one year, so I use it when I need a good off-white. There are *some* Citadel off-whites, such as Ionrach Skin, that don't suck, and their really light greys like Ulthuan Grey are generally good, but the utility of those colours depends on what kind of not-quite-white you're looking for.
>>
How do you guys heat treat your models?
I bought a Dark Angels combat patrol and started assembling it. I have been getting advice from players at my local game store on model building. The last time I was there I bought some primer and and what I hope are the paints I need. There was another customer there (working on terrain I think?) who previously told me about sprue goo who told me I should temper my models, especially the intercessors. He explained that in the process of gluing the models you often bend the plastic to get good contact. This causes the plastic to be under stress once the glue has cured. The stressed plastic can cause your paint to crack in the future. He showed me pictures on his phone of his chaos marines with cracked paint on the arms (bolters are a big cause) which is why he was worried about my intercessors.
I dont have a fancy oven like him to get a proper temper. So I am looking for easier ways or some advice on heat treating them before I prime.
>>
>>98695886
i'd ignore that
not known anyone to do this, or suggest it
i have 30+ year old minis, metal and plastic and there's no cracking
>>
>>98695886
>How do you guys heat treat your models?
Gently boil them for half an hour in blinker fluid.
>>
>>98694792
he looks more like he got hit by a frost ray than he's holding a glowing object
>>
>>98696126
only recommended if you are planning on using tartan paint
>>
>>98692157
thanks doc
>>
>>98695886
No idea what the guy is talking about, never heard anything like it and never noticed any of what he's on about with my models. Probably just some idea he's got that he thinks is true but doesn't actually effectively do anything.
>>
>>98695886
A regular ol' microwave oven should work just fine.
Put a squad in there for 2 minutes on high and they should be beautifully tempered and crack-resistant.
>t. owned warhammer for 50 years
>>
>>98695886
I've heard of stress relieving metal but not plastic. does it even have a crystalline structure?
>>
>>98696227
all kinds of crystals in them there plastic
quartz, carbon, etc
that's why it's so important to microwave your models
>>
I shan't be purchasing any of James' new paint.
>>
>>98695886
if you're getting stress on plastic, you're doing something really really wrong. if the guy you talked to is an old head, the old metal models had a lot of problems with paint sticking to them so maybe he's poorly implementing old techniques for metal models for current plastic models.
>>
>>98695886
if you heat you plastic models they will indeed relieve the stresses of injection molding...and warp in random ways so tey no longer fit together, and that is way before getting close to melting temperature
that guy you found is completely clueless on why his paint is fucking up

and if you need to physically bend plastic models to fit together you are doing it wrong
>>
god I hate it here
>>
>>98696290
>t. doesn't microwave his models
>>
>>98696290
Reddit is always available, so GTFO or STFU
>>
>>98696227
So do, some don't, and some are partially crystalline depending on whether they feel like it or not. Annealing of plastics usually means coaxing them into being more crystalline, I can't recall if polystyrene likes to play along with that or not.
>>
microwaving your models sounds stupid, and I don't even know if that would work given how microwaves work. But I do put my parts after clipping and sanding (before gluing) in my filament dryer at 90c for a few hours to slowly bring it up to temp. The glass transition temp of polystyrene is 100+ so you don't soften it, but you do get it to just below that to relax the structure around the snipped and sanded areas.
>>
>heat treating plastic models
Literal cargo cult lmao. The sheer amount of stupidity to produce something like that must be bait.
>>
>>98692157
Soul
>>
>>98696326
>I don't understand it so it's nonsense
>>
>>98696350
Excellent bait. Unironically great job, anon.
>>
>>98693483
>It'll be alright at worst, though, GW has good r&d.
Lol
are you tarded? they have good marketing, they aren't doing any r&d, paypiggies would buy them even if they rebranded Chinese craft paint
>>
>>98696367
Next up: Warhammer Terrain paints.
>>
Can anyone share an image guide on taking pictures? A really good one was posted here some months ago but it doesn't look like I saved it. And I can't find it in the OP.
>>
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decided to touchup some of my older stormfiends by doing glazing on the yellow parts of the metal, it's not perfect but i'm getting more comfy with the technique
>>
>>98693653
>>98695264
It's not going to be $8 or $10 for a pot, it'll be $40 or $50 for a set of 5. DOA.

>>98692523
Where a bigger one doesn't fit. Dunk the entire length of bristles into the paint and it won't dry as quick.
>>
>>98696538
I like the color scheme. Black and yellow is based.
>>
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>>98696551
many thanks! it's a visually striking color scheme, and def worth the pain of having to deal with yellow paint coverage lol
>>
>>98696571
Apparently not for much longer if GW is to be believed (they are not).

Also it reminded me I need to finish my stormfiends. God there is so much shit on them to paint.
>>
>>98696577
even if their new paints are to be believed i'm so used to using regular acrylics i wouldn't switch over probably, that and 50 dollars per set is insane
and yeah stormfiends are generally kinda a nightmare to paint (and assemble, those tubes suck to stick in place) i wish you luck though anon
>>
>>98696600
>regular acrylics
Be more specific?
>>
>>98696543
do you have to buy them in sets of 5? I just want a couple from each set.
>>
>>98696517
it's in the mega folder
>>
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Here is the whole squad complete. The ones with the red lenses I painted months ago and were very half assed. I need to redo them, especially the one on the right.
I'm still shit at taking pictures but at least I got a tripod this time.
>>
>>98696636
i use a mix of vallejo game color, army painter, and citadel stuff
>>
Personally I mix my own primary paints from pigments and an acrylic medium (I make my own from matte medium and a mix of thinners and retarders. Then from those pure pigments I mix the rest of my colors. It's kind of a pain though because you have to use a muller to really grind the pigment into the medium.
>>
>>98696656
Is vgc moon yellow or wpf daemonic yellow better?
>>
>>98696642
Thanks but it's not that one. An anon posted a pretty indepth one several threads ago that was pretty indepth on camera settings etc.
>>
>>98696656
So not "regular acrylics" but hobby acrylics
I thought you meant artist acrylics.
>>
>>98696695
this one?
>>
>>98696662
Can you video your process?
>>
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>>98696695
or this one?
>>
>>98696706
It's not very interesting. It's just this. But with a generic lahmian medium style recipe, and I use a smaller muller
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3p5aShnWA94
>>
>>98696709
That's it. Thanks alot.
>>
>>98696720
Well it's not literally mining cinnabar to make my own pigment, but it's a very big step in the pure DIY direction
>>
>>98696662
Why?
>>
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I got a 3d printer. I used ai to make my first mini, an ai embodied. I know its rough, first ever model I ever printed.

The next one is in the oven and im excited to show you all
>>
Does anyone know a good warcraft elf style STL? I want to paint one of the blue elves from the new wow trailer.
>>
>>98696642
>>98696705
>>98696709
just put it in your fridge
>>
>>98696865
We are NOT going to start talking about how you have to temper your plastic miniatures after heating them up and rapidly cooling them in the fridge.
So help me!
>>
>>98696865
refrigerator lighting is terrible, it's muted and dim and the positioning of most is just fucking awful.
>>98696869
Your HIPS isn't truly ready until it has not only been heat-treated and tempered, but folded over 1000 times as well.
>>
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>>98696168
I always got this comment when posting my guys lol
When I was 14 I didn't know and just thought green and purple looked cool. Then I found it was piccolo rape and jonkler colors. I dropped the green(mostly) when painting new stuff. Now its just for power weapons and non eye lenses
>>98696347
Highest compliment
>>
>>98696894
Don't forget the clay temper to really get that hamon.
>>
>>98696900
Right, gotta have that turbulent waterline pattern on the edges of the mold lines.
>>
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>>98696808
>>
>>98693333
Citadel paints made a bit of a splash when they released contrast paints. I imagine they see that as a growing market.
>>
>>98697029
If that's the case can they fucking please also start making some cute tau and sisters figures to appeal to the japanese market?
>>
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>>98697038
The japanese don't want weird fish people, they want theocratic fascist mechas.
>>
>>98696808
That's not bad at all, eyes are a bit blobby but the shading looks nice especially on the robe. Good job man.
>>
>>98697070
That reminds me of these absolutely based Symphogear knights
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_zvN_POpgY
>>
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>>98697070
>country that devours media about high class victorian british aesthetics
>don't even try to sell them your gilded gothic aristocratic game full of filigree and impractical dresses
>the attosecond that your game starts getting popular, the country's economy crashes
>>
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space men
>>
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>>98697227
Well thats my point really. Tau are not an aesthetic most japanese would be interested in because they already do that with their own shit but 10x better.
There are plenty of things in 40k that has mass appeal in japan but Tau isn't one of those
>>
>>98697070
based lorelet
>>
>>98696956
not something I'd try with FDM, but alright
is this something by TheLazyForger?
>>
Let's say I not "just" paint but actively try to improve my skills with Youtube tutorials etc., how long would it roughly take me to paint at this level starting from zero?
>>
>>98697431
Entirely depends on how much time you dedicate ot it. If you paint every day for a couple hours I'd say you could probably get here in half a year to a year.
>>
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Tried using a whole different colour instead of white to highlight stuff like those fancy Youtube cunts but I cocked it up big time
2 hours building up layers like a tard yet it looked better after a 2m drybrush fucking hell

>>98693333
Every hobby company would sell their soul for even a fraction of that sweet sweet Japan marketshare
You got shit like WotC sinking a whole lotta cash doing special exclusive Jap releases all year round just for a chance of even being acknowledged by the market there
>>
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>>98696326
It works thoughever
>>
>warhammer reveals happen
>shitposting in /wip/ skyrockets
wow, what a curious coincidence!
>>
>>98697859
>>
>>98696644
They look great anon, good job.
>>
>>98697971
>nobody replied my shit bait thread so I'm going to link it here to hopefully get a (You) or two
fuck
off
>>
>>98698103
>bait
are you retarded by chance
>>
>>98697707
That's... optimistic
>>
>>98698103
>bait thread
what
>>
>>98698254
I don't think that's unreasonable if he actively tries to improve, invests the time and learns the particular techniques used in that paintjob. It has some nice volumes and competent NMM but it's not like it's an award winning miniature or anything. All he really needs outside of the basics is some decent blending and a basic understanding of how light works.
>>
>>98698311
The base material is reflected along the gun and every link of the ammo belt.
But ignoring the eye for lighting, for competence alone that's 2-5 years investment there.
>>
>>98697431
Really depends on what skills you bring into it. Fine motor control is one thing, an understand of the physics of light and suface qualities you are painting (as demonstrated by the bounce light in the picture for example), and an understanding of the classic basics of fine art, i.e. color theory, composition etc.

Everybody is different. Some people have a more intuitive grasp of these things than others but everybody can learn it.

It's a really huge difference between copying what you are being shown in a video and understanding the underlying principles of why those decisions were made. That is where the real learning happens and I'd suggest that "content" from a platform that thrives on delivering punchy attention grabbing videos that are attractive to advertisers is probably not the most reliable or in-depth way to learn this stuff. That is not to say that it isn't valuable to see people paint in real time, for the practical parts, but for the theory you are better off looking somewhere else imo. Just poke around in the art section of a book store and you'll probably find more useful resources on the concepts that shape the decision making that will lead to better results.
>>
>>98697431
Other anon is right, minipainting skill is down to hours invested, both in general and to a specific model.
If you look up specific tutorials on the techniques used in this model, you could copy-paste this paintjob within 10 models.
>>
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>>98696956
Nah i designed it myself

All my prints are my own design, just learning
>>
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>>98698574
>my own design
>used ai to make
so wich one is it?
>>
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And it's a difference you can feel.
>>
>>98698660(me)
top is fresh kolinsky (no soap btw), bottom is my current detail brush
I've had kolinsky before, but they wore out ages ago, finally picked up a couple replacements
>>
>>98698660
good brushes are good but I still get tip drying issues often
>>
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I skipped a step so this squad is going to have one lamenter and seven imperial fists with checkers
>>
>>98698660
>>98698664
I don't know what's "kolinsky" anymore anyway. I have daVinci, Kolibri, sometimes (but rarely now) Lineo, Kozlowski at shops, all named "kolinsky", "kolinsky sable", "sable", whatever, everything is probably red sable anyway, I doubt that I could buy anything else at this point. No point to even care anymore, I would ruin them all within a year from cleaning anyway.
>>
>>98698702
kolinsky is the hamster the bristles are made out of
>>
>>98698669
supposedly those new gw paints don't dry as easily on the tip for whatever reason
still on the fence about them, I've seen nothing but positive press from the people who've actually tried the paints, but that in-and-of-itself is concerning
>>
>>98698719
none of it matters until the paint is actually out
>>
>>98698702
>>98698711
this. It's the animal. But apparently the ukraine war fucked the brush industry, since a lot of kolinsky sable came out of siberia iirc, and since everyone was has been trying to fuck with russia in an economic way brush manufacturers had to source alternatives for their bristles over the last few years.
>>
>>98698719
>every two years a new paint line drops
>every time it's the best thing ever
>every time there are a bazillion youtube videos and reviews
>every time millions of people buy more paints they don't need, because they already have something comparable at home anyway

This whole industry survives on the "shiny new thing" effect alone. Miniatures and every other accessory is sold and marketed to people whose main "hobby activity" is buying stuff.
It's kind of tiresome so sift through all the marketing BS all the time.
>>
>>98698711
you get your rodents mixed up. They're actually made from guinea pig, but only the ones from guinea. Every once in a while the population of guinea pigs in guinea reaches a critical mass, at which point the young are sent to siberian gulags.
It's these guinea pigs from the town of tobol that are then used for tobol kolinsky brushes. I've worked in the industry for a number of years and am accredited and I teach brush making, which takes a very long time to learn, so I only teach a few dedicated people at a time, so I know this like the back of my hand.
>>
>>98698753
kek funny troll
>>
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>>98698657
Lil beet of both

We r living in the future

And i am unshackled from gw
>>
i do a lot of work with those dirt cheap synthetic brushes that are like $1 for 10 online that get hook tips instantly
then switch to a pair W&N s7 kolinsky sables for details and highlights
i know they are cheap, but they should really start breeding the synthetic weasels with better hair genetics
>>
>>98698883
you are shackled to horrendous miniatures, get a resin printer or learn to sculpt
>>
>>98698898
this is my second print ever, a test, and we do have a resin printer for my finals. i think its great. and you cant stop me
>>
>>98698915
>this is my second print ever, a test
don't try to excuse fdm shortcomings
>you cant stop me
why would i try to? you do you
>>
>>98698883
That's not really a great print unfortunately.
>>
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Worked a bit on my brigands. I'll give them another wash and some highlights, base them and call it done.
>>
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So much detail in these fuckers. Might leave them at this stage and say they are battlefield ready. No way can i be precise enough to paint eyes at this scale. Should have been lazy and do these as stone/terracotta also
>>
>>98698886
again, naturally that's because the synthetic weasel populations are managed, because obviously they're synthetic.
They don't need to send these to siberia to make synthetic tobol kolinsky guinea pig hair. The problem is also that it takes nearly as much work and materials to send the synthetic weasels to the gulags, although recently they've made improvements in making the synthetic weasel, where the hairs come off a lot easier.
When I was running my uncle's synthetic weasel farm in the early eighties, or late nineties, I forget, it was quite a lot of work to get the hair out of the weasel. I believe the saying "to get out of someone's hair" actually comes from weasel farms, because as we all know the weasel's aren't actually weasels, because they're synthetic, and they're guinea pigs.
>>
fuaaaaark...I have so many bottles of paint. How do you guys store them without a) just sticking them in a box and forgetting they exist, and b) not spending tons of money?
>>
>>98699357
The true Kolonok is no laughing matter!
>>
>>98699437
a) use them
b) only buy stuff you need, i.e. the stuff you are using for whatever you are working on

You can also get some racks you can hang on the wall. Makes it nicer to pick and choose what you need, because you are looking at it while working.
>>
it's so cool that GW has discovered a whole bunch of new paints again. I genuinely thought all the colors were known by now and yet there are still new ones. That's just amazing.They must have very smart paint discoverers (researchers?).
>>
>>98699437
I bought a bunch of MDF storage. It looks a tad nicer than those plastic/acrylic ones and it's cheap. There are a lot of vendors making and selling these.
I think that's where I would start. I used to store the paints in a drawer but it's just easier to be able to see them at a glance and pick the right colours for mixing etc.
>>
>>98699064
>musket wielding dacians, 200 AD colourized
>>
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metal elf and bird elf
>>
>>98699579

Prove me it didn't happen!
>>
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I painted some m9dels I'd had lying about for 40kg's collage
>>
>>98699626
Nice. There's a joke here about bleeding and also fingering
>>
>>98693214
I'll stick with army painter dropper bottles that comes with mixing balls.
>>
when doing basecoats, how do i decide which parts to paint first?
what should i look out for? smaller parts first?
>>
gw WON
>>
>>98699872
Won what
>>
>>98699437
i just have mine within arm's reach in a cardboard tray
extra ones in a ziploc bag in a storage box with all the other lesser used hobby supplies and bits. most projects don't require dipping into the bag
the cardboard tray and commonly used tools are on top of the storage box which is kept under the painting desk
i don't need it taking up space on the desk
>>
>>98698915
>we do have a resin printer for my finals
Okay well testing on FDM has no fucking relation to what will happen when you print resin so you're just wasting filament, figure it out.
>>
>>98699437
I only have the paints I need, I'm not an impulse buy paypig.
>>
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Honestly, worst paintjob I done this year. I don't understand how I could regress so badly. Won't be stripping them either since I don't really want to get back to them.

Maybe I should assume that minis are not for me anymore.
>>
>>98700022
Okay, you're probably right, bye!
>>
>>98700022
They're not even that bad. I don't know you but from reading your post it sounds like you're having a mindset problem more than anything, there's nothing wrong with those models that ten minutes with a detail brush couldn't mend.
I think it's okay to take a break if you're just not enjoying the process, and also be more forgiving of yourself. Mini painting is a personal pursuit in the sense that you set your own standards, and you're going to be your own harshest and most important critic. Any other human alive will look at your models for two seconds, hopefully say something nice about them, and move on. You're the Most Invested human in your own work by leagues. So it helps to be kind to yourself.
>>
>>98700079
Anon baited you hard
>when i just post my stuff it's ignored
>if i self-deprecate i'll get positive attention!
>>
>>98700079
Thing is, blue armor parts for example are very messy and I simply know I used to do that kind of models much better. So I don't understand why I suddenly cannot do what I used to, despite having maybe month of break. This is different from situation where I know my limits and say "okay, those minis are simply too detailed for my current skill level". But I agree that problem might be psychological. And appreciate your encouraging words.
>>
>>98700115
Oh for fuck sake, current internet is fucking mess with faggots like you insisting that everything must be bait, dishonest, irony and all that. Go fuck yourself with chainsaw.
>>
>>98699687
Based!
>>
>>98700137
If it isnt (lmao) then anon knows himself better than we do, trust his judgement, don't infantilize him.
>>
>>98700115
Eh. I like to assume people have good intentions around here.
>>
>>98700163
I just about choked on my soup
>>
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Getting started-and-a-bit on a few blokes who are trying very hard to convince themselves it's a good pain, and to not think about how much longer the eternal part of "eternal damnation" will be compared to the five minutes that has passed so far.
>>
>>98699830
doesn't really matter but "inside out" works quite well, i.e. from the innermost layer like skin to stuff on top like tops, jackets etc.
And do eyes first (completely, not just basecoat) and then the rest of the face.
>>
What actually GW "drybrushes" are made from? I try to figure that out since when I tried using makeup brushes for drybrushing technique, it never worked as it was advertised - trying to add little moisture from wet sponge would cause those brushes to stay hydrated and produce streaks - and they would keep that moisture very well, in fact when treated with soap for cleaning, they could squeeze out soap even after repeated washing with warm water. Since this technique is rather damaging for the brushes, I would rather use some cheaper solutions instead of expensive ones (and GW brushes are quite expensive).
>>
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Finished the APC. 1/2
>>
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>>98700777
2/2
>>
>>98700784
>>98700777
Very nice.
>>
>>98700777
>>98700784

Great work anon.
>>
i bought some chink wet palette for like 5 bucks and it came with 2 types of paper
its a meme right? to have to put 2 different papers on the wet sponge
>>
>>98700853
>its a meme right? to have to put 2 different papers on the wet sponge
yes
>>
>>98700797
>>98700830
Thanks, anons!
>>
>>98698343
>>98698311
people want to believe that painting is about knowledge and techniques because that's part of their cope that they can improve just by studying (watching videos) and that "I just have to get better at x, y, and z and I'll be on my way to a golden demon." the reality is that it's really like 45% hand eye coordination and 45% attention to detail, and if your results are poor it's because you're clumsy or because you're taking shortcuts and not willing to stop.
>>
>>98700867
Disagree. Handling a brush is easy, knowing exactly where to put your shades and highlights is what makes you a good painter.
>>
>>98700894
in my opinion a model that has every single tiny detail cleanly picked out looks way more impressive than one with volumetric shading but messy brush strokes and half of the greebles left in the base color. that one anon's kroot kill team from a few threads ago looked good even though he was clearly a beginner just because he painted every detail on the model and then freehanded some more on. half of the people I see obsessing about their shading have fucked up primer, chalky looking base coats, or didn't even bother to fill gaps in the model.
>>
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bases and shades done
ready for highlighting
the tactical rock is going too far
>rubble, stone, bricks
>oh, also paint half a marine per ork
>and a squig each
>>
>>98693214
I read some speculation that these may not be acrylic paints but it was a 4chin post so I'm not sure if I can trust it.
I always sucked at painting yellow and white. What are the best yellow and white acrylic paints on the market that will work for miniature painting right now?
Hopefully new paints are good but I tend to avoid Citadel paints unless I have to like when making marine juice.

>>98699820
>that come with mixing balls
Is it controversial to believe that droppers including agitators is bad? I think they should not have any so the painter can decide whether he wants balls in the paint and whether they should be glass or stainless steel.
>>
>>98700777
>>98700784
Great stuff as always raptorbro.
>>
>>98701005
I've never had a manufacturer-supplied mixing ball be a problem.
>>
>>98701005
there's no reason to not include a 2cent agitator. there's no downside.
>>
>>98701086
Thank you, anon.
>>
I need to improve my OSL technique.
>>
>>98693546
Why make two when can make just one? One easier than two, dumdum
>>
>>98689892
I'd suggest mixing your black with another color to make it just a little bit lighter than black with the general appearance of still being black, then run a wash of black to get the deep parts and then highlight with another lighter but still apparent black. Since you already did it in black, you can always just lighten the high points with a lighter black.
>>
>>98691887
>>98691631
So did the client just pass you the files or do you have a source for these?
>>
>>98700934
If you caveat that with
>half of the greebles left in the base color
then, yeah, that's just lazy. Loose on the other hand is completely fine.
>>
>>98694933

Who's the sculptor for that model?
>>
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i'm making a construct
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>>98701516
please drill your barrel
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>>98701540
but i don't want it to leak
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I'm trying to git gud at taking photos with my phone. I think I messed up distance wise here which has made some areas too blurry. Is there anything else I am missing?
>>
>>98701565
What's your lighting setup? It kind of looks like the face is in shadow.
>>
Are there any reputable sellers for cheap printed plastic minis to practice on? I'm just getting into it and don't want to buy a bunch of expensive models I'll likely ruin anyway.
>>
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>>98701581
I'm using one of these. I'm also using the white plastic background from this kit and am wondering if fabric would be better.
>>
>>98701095
I just have bad luck when it comes to anything so it is better to not have a stainless steel mixing ball in a dropper in case one is a bad batch ball and it rusts. If it were to happen to me I'd only find out when it is too late and then ponder if my paint jobs are messed up.
>>98701155
>2cent agitator
I'd be worried if the stainless steel balls were 2 cents. If they're glass then I'm fine. I don't recall if there is a glass variant that weighs as much as a stainless steel ball of the same size would weigh.
>>
>>98701610
>printed plastic
Oxymoron.
>where to get a bunch of cheap minis
What you're looking for is Reaper Bones.
>>
>>98701610
you can also go to somewhere like perry miniatures
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>>98700777
someone learned a thing or two from the uncle of the night shift.

Fantastic work!
>>
>>98701610
yes, perry minis for napoleonics to early modern eras, victrix for ancients to medieval, these are some of the best and minis come to about $1 each
But you are better off painting what you like rather than just for painting for practice sake, if you like GW and want to paint one of their ranges just get that and take your time, you can easily spend 8hr on a space marine so a box of 10 will take a few weeks to a month of spare time
>>
>>98701336
No.
>>
>>98701638
Bookmarked this. They have some neat models.
>>98701679
That's probably the most realistic approach. I really wanted to paint some Thousand Sons so I could just get a box of Rubric Marines or Scarab Terminators and just take my time over the fall and winter working on them. Everyone says Chaos is a bad idea for beginning painters but fuck it, if they turn out too bad I can always strip them and start over.
>>
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Friend wanted a Lord of Hysteria to count as a Lord Exultant in his Retro Emperor's Children.
>>
>>98701804
don't ever strip and repaint your first minis, you'll regret it if you keep painting, also after painting a squad of minis, striping and painting them again won't be fun, it'll be a chore, and where do you end this endless repainting until it's better? it'll always get better, paint them for fun, get some others and repeat, keep in mind the minis you see on Instagram and white dwarf are by people who have spent 10+ hrs minimum on a single mini after having thousands of hours of experience, and to top it off they are the 1% of that subset
>>
unsurprisingly erik was a lot more reasonable in his response to the new paints. They still sound decent though to be fair.
>>
>>98700022
Noob here, can anyone explain whats wrong with these ? (Apart from blurry pic and no bases)
>>
Anyone have some good smooth red recs? trying to use ak carmine and getting some clumping even with thin layers
>>
>>98702234
Nothing, they are pretty much a average paintjob
>>
>>98702264
Post mini
>>
>>98702264
Warhammer Tone Pro line. Perfect coverage even for red or yellow over black in 1 coat, perfectly smooth finish too.
>>
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>>98702278
Here, tried to make it noticeable. It feels like it's "dry" for lack of a better term even though I'm pretty much glazing it
>>
>>98702289
not sure what you are after? do you want a shiny glossy finish?
>>
>>98702264
I've never been let down by any of Reapers reds
>>
>>98702299
no, just smoothness
Might just switch paint, this is having that problem where the start and end of the brush stroke get all the pigment and the middle is just mushy
>>
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Looking for some c&c on my free-handing some eldar runes on the right (frame left) helmet wing. I started with just metalic on metalic and I was just having a hard time seeing it, so I tried a thin hairline of black around it. Im not sure it works, and am considering I will switching to a fire red colors like his forehead, or perhaps pure black.
>>
>>98702309
All paint behaves like that
>>
>>98701638
>>98701804
I don't know why people recommend Reaper, unless you want a single mini vs a squad. As other anons pointed out Victrix/Perry are cheaper, but as you mentionned w40k, I would look at Stargrave or Mantic's GCPS for scifi troopers.
>>
>everybody praises and recommends god hand
>everybody also posts their broken god hands
make it make sense
t. i use 2.99€ clippers with no complaints
>>
>>98702309
I'll be honest, I'm not really sure what the complaint is, are you talking about the paints consistency?
maybe read paint schizo will show up for you
>>
>>98702557
better options put there
>>
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>>98697376
>>
>>98702609
Nice work plainanon
You ever post the whole army yet?
>>
>>98702406
The black outline works alright.
>>
>>98702657
latest group photo is >>98698870 but that's missing the last five models i've painted
>>
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>>98702682
oh it's missing this too because it's on display at the LGS
>>
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>>98701443
>>98701491
I made it. I also added a base after it fell over.
>>
>>98691045
Wooo-ooo
>>
>>98702682
Nice, damn that old marine is tiny, scale creep has been insane
>>
>>98702557
They are very sharp, but, as every sharp tools, they are also more fragile. That and lots of people ignore warnings about not using them to cut thick fragments.

I use same Chinesium single blade nippers for years and they are all fine, albeit not cutting as clean as Godhands are supposed to.
>>
>>98702557
The people who recommend godhands for warhammer are idiots.
The whole point of them is that they don't leave gate marks, which is important on gunpla, but practically useless for minis.
>>
>>98702796
You like gate marks on your minis?
>>
>>98702801
Do you know what a gate mark is? I'm not referring to the nubs, I'm referring to the white stretch marks left over when you cut, which single blade nippers are designed to avoid. Of course there is literally no point in trying to hide them if you're going to actually paint the model.
>>
>>98701610
first you should start with cardboard. get a brush that's not too small and paint lines on it in a grid pattern. try to get the lines as straight as possible and without any variance in the width. once you have a grid practice filling in the squares without going over the lines. once you can paint a perfect checkerboard move on to doing the same on plastic spoons. only after you have mastered spoons should you move on to the cheapest miniatures.
>but that's boring and stupid
no it's like the kung fu movies where the guy has to carry buckets of water around before he can punch things. you're bad at painting because you didn't practice the fundamentals. you don't need miniatures to learn brush control.
>>
>>98702832
Okay, but they cut more cleanly, meaning they leave less nubs.
>>
>>98702849
Sharp normal nippers will cut just as flat, just with a gate mark (which again, isn't relevant for minis).
I'm not saying they're bad nippers, just that their main feature is not useful for our side of the hobby, and it's silly to recommend that people go out to buy some insanely expensive fragile nippers that they don't need.
>>
>>987028639(me)
>t. someone who owns god hands
>>
>>98702866
meant to reply >>98702863
no idea why it linked to that deleted post
>>
>>98702863
How do they put less strain on the plastic aside from being sharp and thin?
>>
>>98702880
godhands only have one blade, the other is the "anvil"
they cut through the gate like a knife, rather than pinching them
>>
>>98702880
NTA, but being sharp and thin is why they put less strain on the plastic. A thinner blade means less material needs to be pushed out of the way and stretched, and a sharper blade means less force needs to be applied. You still need to have good technique, but if you do it right it will save you a lot of time on sanding if you care about that kind of thing. They are absolutely NOT required to get good results, but they are very nice.
>>
>>98702886
That's not how physics. You're still pinching it, just from one side. It's the thinness that matters.

>>98702888
Exactly, but that same thinner blade makes cutting nubs cleaner. And more importantly, it makes cutting off parts for kitbashing cleaner, because thick cutters tear the plastic.
>>
>>98702898
>You're still pinching it, just from one side. It's the thinness that matters.
no, one blade slices through, and the anvil is braced against the edge of the part, so the gate is never pinched
>>
>>98702911(me)
I do question if some of the shills even own god hands, let alone know how they work or how to use them
>>
>>98702911
The same force is applied.
>>
>98702925
Bad troll
>>
>>98702911
nta, to slice you would need to do a slicing motion, wich you are not with pliers
>>
>>98701652
Thanks! And definitely, been also reading a lots of AK books lately.
>>
>>98703083
>wich
>pliers
>godhands don't slice
You truly have no idea what you're talking about, do you?
>>
>>98703083
The correct word would be shear. They're essential shears.
>>
>>98703165
How is shear the right word here? Just say cut or slice, it's far more accurate. The rotation of the blade relative to the material being cut produces a slicing motion.
>>
>>98703178
That's all pliers though.
>>
>>98703165
I feel like they snip.
>>
>>98703231
Isn't more of a clip?
>>
>>98702832
tempering your sprues in the oven before nipping will prevent any stretch marks
>>
>>98703474
kys
>>
>>98699687
based scorpion chad
>>
>>98702714
Sweet
>>
>>98702714
Nice job on the sculpt. ZBrush?
>>
>>98703286
When I snip things out of sprues I say "snip snip," so I'm gonna say no to that question.
>>
>>98702557
i've used mine for a year now and haven't damaged them. i still do the 2 cut method with my cheap $8 hobby nippers.
>>
>>98703890
Good point.
>>
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Hey noobie here. I've got some old white metal models from the early 2000s I'm looking ressurect. A chaos lord, Cypher, and a Demon Prince. Im trying to get the lord done first since he seems good to start with.
Im missing the gun arm for the right. I have this same era tentacle I'm looking to substitute. How should I try to make it look seamless? Will CA glue work for the joint?
Other than cleaning and trimming is there another other surface treatment to consider before gluing and priming?
The left arm also doesn't fit very well, I've already removed some of the nub that is supposed to join them but there are gaps galore. Do I remove some little by little until it seems to fit?
Im also anxious about building the DP but that's a future problem
>>
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how to make batch painting more fun? i didnt know this "porcelain" armor will take so long
>>
>>98704049
Cyanoacrylate works on everything, so yes. It's my first choice when metal and plastic need to fuse.
The VERY oldest models sometimes have a mold-release agent from the casting process which needs cleaning off before you prime, but that's mostly exclusive to garage operations who were spin-casting their own stuff decades ago.
Rough fits are also just a common thing with old models. You can either continue the subtractive method like you're doing, but might be better off buying a bit of green stuff and filling the gaps with that, it's certainly easier to fill gaps with putty than anything else.
>>
>>98704049
metal models were always a nightmare. you could get into greenstuff if you really want to deal with gaps, or you could just let it ride because most of the gaps won't be noticeable on the tabletop, or even at arm's length. you could even use a little extra superglue and let that harden in the gaps.
>>
>>98704104
>you could even use a little extra superglue and let that harden in the gaps
The superglue + baking soda trick is a moral hazard which WILL lead you to create the world's grungiest conversions. But its very useful when you start using superglue as a filler/structural element.
>>
>>98704126
i got metal models that still have imprints of my fingerprints on them because extra superglue is a bitch.
>>
>>98704139
It's an actual motherfucker of a substance.
>Glue my fingers together with CA glue
>Try to pull them apart immediately
>FUCKING SMOKE
>Both fingers have burns
A practical lesson in exothermic chemical reactions. But it does stick good when it's set.
>>
I saw discussion about how Vallejo paints still have bubbles. I've ordered some nuVallejo mecha, game and true metallic metal acrylic paints. Has the bubble acrylic "glitch" been "patched" yet? Will my metal acrylic tones leave bad bubble marks? I like many of the Mecha color metallic tones. Same for model and game color. And I think the metallics from AK's 3rd gen are the weakest link. ArmyPainter's metallics are supposedly not great but I am hopeful for the Vallejo metallics at least.
If the bubble problem is real and still here, what are steps to avoid them or prevent them?
>>
>>98704265
I've been using vallejo metallics for nearly two years now, their TMM range for couple of months, and I never had a problem with bubbles.
>>
superglue is useful in a lot of situations but I don't know why you would go to it when you need to fill a gap. what's the deal with people in this hobby who will use craft glue for literally everything but refuse to even touch epoxy?
>>
>>98704443
because superglue dries in 5 minutes and epoxy putty takes 24 hours to be sandable.
>>
>>98704443
because more people have superglue laying around than epoxy? and most consumer epoxy is the mix kind and that's a lot for such small models? it's also more expensive? even a small bottle of UV epoxy, which might be the best for modeling is like 4-5x the cost of superglue.
>>
>>98704497
you aren't on the clock when you're building your miniatures. who cares if you have to wait until tomorrow? plus there's 5 minute epoxy if you're in a hurry anyway.

>>98704511
>because more people have superglue laying around than epoxy?
why? you can buy it at any hardware store, places like autozone, and even shartmart.

>most consumer epoxy is the mix kind and that's a lot for such small models?
you don't have to mix it all at once. I have a set of 2 part epoxy that's 5+ years old and it still works.

>it's also more expensive?
if you can't afford a few dollars for glue you can't afford $60 for a single fucking plastic character.
>>
>>98702925
p=f/a
>>
>>98704364
>non-citadel metalics
Do the Vallejo ones actually produce better results? Ive never painted something so large as my avatar before, and I am a bit disappointed with the grainy-ness on the large flat surfaces that I'm getting with the citadel ones.
>>
>>98704952
>Do the Vallejo ones actually produce better results?
Yes. It's imo finer pigment, and it shows. Their TMM range is quite nice, but the old Metal Color range is fantastic, as well.
>>
>>98704952
>>98704957
I was disappointed by the TMM line, the metal pigments arent nearly as good as the old Metal colors, and some of them are just glittery.
>>
Model broke off the base but now I can paint the whole cape!
>>
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real fdm hours
>>
>>98704078
I just put an audiobook or some media playing that I don't mind losing focus on and grind a section of the models. But even with that I'm still struggling with the same problem. Detailed line work seems like a nightmare to paint in batches, you gonna do the crack motif in other units also?
>>
>>98704078
>>98705389
It hekps if you actually like painting, then it's no chore.
And if you don't? Why the fuck did you choose a game that requires it?
Figure it out.
>>
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maybe a massive brainfog moment but i just can't pick a color for edge highlight that would darken the greys a bit and at the same time not clash as stupid as it sounds
>>
>>98705527
I'm still a paintlet but what about your grey with a little black in it?
>>
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booba
>>
>>98704364
Thanks anon!
I have some dnd preprimed miniatures that will work as metallic paint testers.
Is isopropyl alcohol safe to use to paint strip these models to prime them again afterwards?
>>98704957
>>98704966
Was the old metal color line touched by reformulation or just as good as always? TMM is still good? I'm not sure about their washes in the line.
>>
Saw this post >>98704030
What's general rule for getting this eye effect right? Just a black cover and then black wash over and slightly around it?



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