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08/21/20New boards added: /vrpg/, /vmg/, /vst/ and /vm/
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File: neat stand (Copy).jpg (1.63 MB, 1920x1440)
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>"If you're new, you're gonna fuck up. Don't worry! If you're experienced, don't make the new people worry!"

***READ THE GUIDE***

Discord
https://discord.gg/W973BmwERB

The guide:
Part 1 (Quick Start)
https://docs.google.com/document/d/e/2PACX-1vSBDfE8Iz-a86DZJCR5MHRW6tjkQX-y4-ZpUc_vHjRfx_i2FB0zR1usdrgUJ4wNTs1iDFZmTQHF66X_/pub

Part 2 (Deeper Dive)
https://docs.google.com/document/d/e/2PACX-1vQJG2SZo1O1PjExPrdU_-GnkrYTGiGLCgBcKaL4peEWxOGB4CNbpGaJBV1oF61eNE1lEhbQHYEAXLrw/pub

And a handy guide to other types of plamo: http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20(Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step).pdf
http://www.scalemodelguide.com

Some line art:
https://imgur.com/user/Gundaml1neart/posts


Previous thread: >>11203519
>>
== NIGHTMARE GROUPBUILD ==

Build a mecha encompassing different aspects of the horror genre. Examples include
>A mecha that incorporates general horror tropes from literature, film, and anime
>A corrupted version of an existing mecha/robot through magical, biological, or alien means (ie Symbiotes, parasites, Daemonic possession)
>Organic mecha (ie Evangelions) and monsters from /m/-related media (ie: the BETA from Muv-Luv)
>A mecha that draws inspiration from various demons or monsters from different mythologies and religions.

Submit your entries to gunplaplamo@gmail.com , include at least 5 finished pics and any WIP pics you took while working on your entry, as well as a brief description of your build.

START: 8/14/24
END: 11/21/24
>>
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Idk if anyone’s been keeping up but we got some updated Oberon pics
>>
What are your future hauls looking like?

>USA Gundam Store is holding a bunch of 00 S2 HGs and my MG Turn A until all the rest come in stock (order was made back in April)
>have a half metric fuckton of P-Bandai F90 mission packs and Wing HGs arriving in February or so
>MG V2 Assault Buster and extra wings
>Veteran's Day sale coerced me to purchase some HG SEED kits and HG UC stuff from my wishlist, including a triplet of M1 Astrays
>Aliexpress sale gave me an excuse to buy a set of Madworks chisel heads, a Daban MG The O and a few knockoff Action Bases, including an Action Base 5 triplet for the M1 Astrays

I may or may not have an addiction.
>>
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>>11230234
>What are your future hauls looking like
>>
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>when you have no lathe and you must lathe
Also leftover sprue use #29712340.
>>
>>11230508
lmao
i guess if the parts you're working on are small enough this works just fine
>>
>have known about Gunpla for ages but never cared about it
>wife buys me a Zaku on a whim since she knows I like miniatures
I'm in love.
>>
>>11232412
I want to smell your wife
>>
>>11232412
You're almost in time, Gunpla is about to get a small price hike in April because of how shit the Japanese economy is, and if you live in the US expect that to be amplified further by tariffs.
>>
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they just raised the price of the Strike Freedom bros. First time I have seen bandai raise the price of a kit.
>>
>>11232412
>wife
>I'm in love
I should hope so.
>>
>>11232412
>likes miniatures
>has a wife
gonna have to second this anon >>11232415
>>
I just realized that I could apply panel line before assembling, Is there anything wrong with doing that?
>>
>>11234158
I've been doing my panel lining before assembly forever, way easier IMO, even if you aren't using Tamiya or Mr Color or something.
>>
>>11229903
Good lord I wish the funnels mounted like the prelude's. It would work perfectly as a snow white at home.
>>
>>11234172
Glad to know it was a good idea, gonna do it from now on.
>>
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For those in the US, there's an immediate "in stock" drop on P-Bandai right now.
>>
>>11234218
psycho doga... kno...
but i have too much backlog atm (10 boxes) so I will have to pass it by
>>
Is it cringe to buy kits already built?
>>
>>11234312
forgot pic
>>
>>11234312
For me over half the fun is building it so yeah, it is cringe.
>>
>>11234364
What if it's an old kit that is in short supply, and I'm just gonna take it apart and repaint it anyways?
>>
Does anyone have a good guide for kitbashing? For a few years I've been planning to put together the build I used in GB3. I finally have all of the kits I needed the pieces from, but I didn't have any kitbashing experience. It's all HGs for what that's worth, and I didn't plan to do anything right away I'd like to learn what I can before diving in.
>>
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>>11234487
Most the shoulders with ball joints are compatible with modern builds. The waist can be trickier, sometimes they need a ball joint polycap, sometimes a peg, but the peg is the same size so just need to add or remove the polycap. Legs are usually on a similar connection as well. Trouble really is with older kits without any standardized joint systems. Most backpacks will swap now but occasionally youll get one that wont fit directly like the ground gundam backpack.
>>
>>11234943
That's actually great to hear! The pieces I'm using for the body are all modern kits afaik. Thank you
>>
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>>11234487
>a good guide for kitbashing
Any guide that teaches you basic scratchbuilding skills (how to drill a hole, how to saw, how to glue, how to reinforce with metal rods, etc) is also a guide for kitbashing.

Also people's build logs like http://s708.blog110.fc2.com/page-3.html or http://uc-timeline.com/category/%e6%97%a7%e3%82%ad%e3%83%83%e3%83%88_%e3%82%a2%e3%83%83%e3%82%b0/ or whatever. Also futaba modelling boards:
https://dat.2chan.net/v/ and https://nov.2chan.net/y/
>>
>>11235545
Thank you, I'll check those out
>>
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Any tins on cleaning up edge wear in plastic?
>>
>>11235816
seam weld with plastic cement then sand smooth
if you need to add material you can make "sprue goo" by mixing up some clipped off bits of the runner in cement to dissolve it.
>>
>>11234438
thats fine? makes total sense.
>>
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Do waterslides exist for the RX-178? I don't like the look of these at all.
>>
>>11236080
Did you even try searching anywhere? i see many brands for both RG and MG sizes
>>
>>11236086
Including Bandai
>>
Kinda want to pick up something, but not sure what. I've got the P-Bandai Zeta-Mkii-Hyaku on preorder, but that's next year. My gut tells me a zaku since I've only got an the HG Rx-78-2 and RG ZGok from 0079. It would be nice if there were more Zeta era revives.
>>
I just built the Leo model from the Gunpla Evolution line, and I have the RX-79 MG version from the 08th MS team lined up but I am intimidated. The Leo is the first model that I have ever built, I had trouble with the feet armor, got a little sloppy with the snips. Should I try my hand at the Real Grade Tallgeese before going up to Master Grade? Give me your testicular fortitude please.
>>
>>11236541
MG is way easier than rg. And stop being a little bitch.
>>
>>11236541
MGs are honestly not that hard, they just take longer to put together than your average HG because they have a bunch more parts.
RGs nowadays are basically mini-MGs, so their parts count is only a little lower but the parts are much smaller.
>>
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>finally got the time to work on the 3d printed zaku flipper

Most of the parts are primed with Mr. Surfacer 1500 black.

For the lens I ended priming them with white. Was hoping to using some liquid masking so I can spray the colors in but mask is way to watery to do the job. I remove the dried masking and I got some 70° hot water and some soap hoping to wash away the masking residue, yet for some strange reasons the white primer came off as I brushed the part.

I have no idea what's going on and maybe it is because the material of the 3D parts that was expanded by the hot water and the primer lost its grip?
The one piece that I also Primed white that i did not wash is fine- my nail is not chipping the primer in any way
>>
>>11236632
Okay fine.
>>11236741
Small pieces are part of my problem, I have the hands of a retard. I opened the box and saw tiny screws for the legs and I was surprised. Like I said, new to this.
>>
>>11236865
>screws
Sounds like an early MG, which is gonna be pretty simple to put together. Easier than a modern RG for sure.
When adding the screws, go 2 turns down, then 1 turn back and repeat until they're fully seated. This helps with forming better threads inside the plastic parts and results in less risk of breakage.
>>
>>11236754
>white primer came off
What was the "white primer"?

>mask is way to watery
>70° hot water and some soap hoping to wash away the masking residue
What did you use for masking? None of what you did is needed normally.
>>
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>Murasame Kai's still haven't hit stateside
Please build a factory in the US i'm begging you.
>>
>>11236905
Mr surfacer 1500 white was the white primer

As for the masking, it is just Mr hobby' blue liquid mask. I had to wash it because some of the masking struck to the tiny dips between the 3d printing layer and I can't get them out normally
>>
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>>11237248
>Mr surfacer 1500 white was the white primer
Mr Surfacer has some issues sticking to stuff other than regular PS, so I would not use it as a primer. MrColor used to make a special resin primer (which you can't find anywhere now), MrPrimer 1000 should work, although for UV resin I would recommend Tamiya primer.

>Mr hobby' blue liquid mask.
Both of Mr Hobby liquid masks are blue, but one (Neo) is latex and pic related is water soluble. I would only use peelable latex masking for masking painted surfaces. In any case, washing in _hot_ water serves no useful purpose, if the mask is water soluble it will dissolve in room temperature water just as well and if it is latex, wetting the mask will make it harder to peel.

>struck to the tiny dips between the 3d printing layer
That's why you keep sanding and priming with coarse primer until they are gone. There shouldn't be any visible layers by the time you are ready to paint.
>>
>>11237278
I don't know, all the other pieces seemed to be fine. And mentioned before I tried to scratch one with my nail nothing came off of it. Only those got treated with hot water got this problem

I think the kit is made of pla, the seller said not to expose it to sun light naked and not to mention the pieces are really brittle. I have pieces split in half on me when I drop them on to the floor. Going by the internet people said Mr surfacer primer as good for most 3d parts so maybe it is just a temperature thing.

As for Mr. Surfacer I doubt I will be using it any more. The general spray cans from Mr hobby was banned few years ago over he and I am literally using up whatever stock people have left around the country as I order them online.

Tamiya are still in stores but they don't have primer in black only grey red and white
>>
>>11237356
>they don't have primer in black
You can always add Tamiya black lacquer paint to it if you really need a black resin primer. Or you can prime gray, fix the surface defects, then paint black.
>>
>>11236754
did you wash the parts before priming? could have been some leftover coating on the 3d printed parts
>>
Is it okay to talk about non-bandai kits in this general or is that off topic? I just bought the Kotobukiya eva 02 as my first kit and wondered if anyone had any tips?
>>
>>11237514
>Gunpla/Plamo General
Plamo stands for plastic models of all kinds.
You're good.
>>
>>11237514
>Kotobukiya
Here's a tip, if a part won't go in, don't force it. Koto kits from my experience have some tight joints that will break if you're not careful.
Anyway, just sand it down ever so slightly until it's at a tightness that won't stress the plastic but can still hold.
>>
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here's a kit i recently finished
>>11229606
FUCK ME I MISS EVERY MOIDEL CONTEST
I've had a horror ball planned since I bought it back in July
>>
I remember reading that a MG Deathscythe was quite the hand grenade, Which one was that?
>>
>>11238988
I made the MG EW Deathscythe not too long ago and it was one of the most brittle kits I've made. The face in particular just degraded and I had to cement and paint it until it looked acceptable I think part of the leg went as well.
When I get home I'll take a picture.
>>
>>11238025
>>11237550
Thanks anons, I'll post photos etc once it arrives, and I'll be mindful of any tight fits
>>
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I made a zaku and there's nothing you can do about it
>>
holy shit
thicken your paint
>>
>>11229605
No
>>
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>>11240174



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