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does /xs/ touch rock?

>>196300
Panty boy is really wearing gloves kek

>>196300
I started climbing last autumn (at a gym) and I'm intending to buy a pad and start bouldering outdoors in a couple weeks time. Any tips for a newbie?

>>196310
can't see it from this angle but the right side is a hand crack

>>196312
always locate the downclimb before you hop on a new boulder. mountainproject is a great resource for finding beta. bigger is usually better if you're climbing over a single pad.

>Allez. Allez. C’mon. C’mon. Allez. Push. Push. Let’s fucking go. Try hard. Allez. C’mon. Allez. Try fucking hard. Let’s go. Allez. Gamba. C’mon. Try fucking hard. Let’s go.

>>196321
>BREATHE
>You're SO fucking strong dude
>You got this
>FOCUS

Help a noobie out will ya.

If I'm at 95-100kg coming from powerlifting to indoor bouldering, have been climbing for 2 years and still can't hang off of a 20mm edge at BW, should I bother hangboarding or is it just a matter of losing BW at this point?

I'm getting wiped on crimps, especially when climbing at steeper angles (at V4). Thuggy body position stuff, dynos and slabs are not a problem (at V5).

So far I've trained under the assumption that I will be able to rely on footwork and just more climbing would fix any finger strength issues.

Should I just climb more and keep focusing on footwork? Should I just hangboard my way to stronger fingers? Do I have to admit defeat and lose BW? Any advice and harsh reality check is welcome at this point.

>why are you at that BW
Because I want to maintain my powerlifting numbers without having to dedicate a lot of time to powerlifting. I'm also a fatass who likes to eat.

>>196331
ignoring the (marginal?) strength benefit that your fingers likely have from being bulkier just from weight, hanging off 20mm at your bw is like the average climber hanging with 50% added bw. V5 climbers shouldn't be able to hang that. You can certainly get much, much stronger fingers than you currently have (some of the best climbers can 20mm hang ~80kg for instance) but finger hypertrophy is very slow and losing weight is relatively much faster while also making everything in climbing easier at the same time.
What are your goals with climbing? Do you want to climb outdoors or just have fun in the gym? If the former, crimp strength is absolutely essential, but if you really just climb indoors then you have the luxury of picking and choosing your styles of climbs.
keto works btw

>>196336
>ignoring the (marginal?) strength benefit that your fingers likely have from being bulkier just from weight
Duly ignored, I didn't even know there was a marginal one.

>V5 climbers shouldn't be able to hang that.
Right, that makes sense. I've heard people talk about 130% of BW being normal for my grade and I always found that quite strange when I couldn't even hang at BW.

>losing weight is relatively much faster while also making everything in climbing easier at the same time.
Which is what I thought, but whenever I ask climbers, they say losing weight is never the answer and the conversation gets super awkward for some reason. Same with adding hangboarding. "Just climb more and focus on technique, you'll get there". So that's what I've been doing for the past two years, spending 80% of my effort on practicing footwork and body positioning.

>What are your goals with climbing?
Climb 7A in all styles and maintain as much as I can while I go on to progress other sports to a similar "upper intermediate level". Wouldn't mind getting to a grade or two higher but I value being well-rounded and am managing expectations. I'm trying to maintain an intermediate level in multiple sports, including indoor bouldering.

>but if you really just climb indoors then you have the luxury of picking and choosing your styles of climbs.
I indeed only plan on climbing indoors, because we got snow 6 months of the year *and* the granite boulders here are mostly just crimps.

On a scale of 1-10, how confident would you be in making the assertion that losing BW is the *only* way I would get to my goal? I know that is not what you are saying, I'm just calibrating my expectations and calculating the best way forward.

I have insertional Achilles tendonitis, pretty sure I got it from jumping off the wall and not stretching.
I need to go to the doctors, I really don't want to stop climbing. :(

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>>196320
Real men get stuck at the top and cannot get down.

>>196342
Not who you replied to, but I'm positive you don't need to lose weight to get stronger fingers. If you're concerned about injuring your fingers, you could try doing recruitment pulls (look them up, but it's basically pulling as hard on a hangboard with one hand while your feet are still on the ground). You could also combine those with density hangs, like this article describes:
https://www.trainingbeta.com/the-simplest-finger-training-program/
Again, if you don't think there's a size you could hang on for ~30 seconds, you could buy a no-hang device (Tension block, etc.), a loading pin to add weight, and do your density hangs one hand at a time. If you add this to your climbing, do it before your session and keep your session lighter (lower intensity or lower volume) and maybe crimp sparingly. Also, continue to focus on your footwork and technique.
At some point, you will need to choose between powerlifting and climbing, and being fat will make that choice come faster, but that choice does not start at V4 in a gym. Also, I think that a lot of those strength metrics are for outdoor grades, not indoor ones.

Climbing real rocks is idiotic. When people in the gym ask me to come out with them I have to hold back a sneer at how retarded they are. Gym is better in every conceivable way.

>>196342
Coming from powerlifting, you should know how disinformed nearly everyone is about how to get stronger. Fingers are no exception. The optimal way to increase your finger strength is to train your finger strength. You don't improve sprinting by sprinting; you squat. You don't improve sumo strength by doing sumo; you hit the gym. And you don't improve your finger strength by climbing; you hangboard.

Every sport downstream from strength sports have this inferiority complex where they loathe to admit to themselves that getting stronger is good. Even Oly lifters do this and somehow believe that getting their deadlift to 500 wouldn't help their weak clean as much as practicing technique. No, ignore all such retards and just do finger powerlifting and you will mog everyone.

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>>196312
>>196320
Don't listen to him, if you can climb up it, you can climb down it. Plus if it's a boulder you can always just jump off

>>196375
>>196425
Thanks guys, this was very informative. I think I’ll know where to go from here

>>196342
>they say losing weight is never the answer and the conversation gets super awkward
this is because the average liberal climber is extremely conscientious about anorexic climber girls and ever saying anything that could get them blamed for that phenomenon.
>scale of 1-10
7A+7a is absolutely possible at 100kg, it'll just take you significantly longer than even the 85kg climbers. possibly a difference of several years.
like the other guy mentioned, weighting up a tension block or something like it will work incredibly well since you can't hang one pad (20mm) at bodyweight currently.

>>196426
>if you can climb up it, you can climb down it
very stupid advice. no one has ever downclimbed the world's most famous boulder (Midnight Lightning for the uninitiated gumbies) and that's not because it's impossible but because it'd be stupid to try to. you can chimney down between the boulder and the tree or you can walk to the other side and take a 8ft jump from there (ideally your friend brings the crash pad over)

>>196423
its true, there are ticks and mosquitoes and rain outside and the routes are never reset

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any tips bros?

>>196443
Just do the opposite of each of those points.

>>196425
I think there is truth to your sentiment but it’s like on a spectrum. Saying you will not get stronger fingers by just climbing is total nonsense for people starting out but it’s probably true at some point. I see people say that point is at 7c/7c+ and I think I would agree from my experience.

I have been climbing for a bit more than a year. I dont know my real grade because I’m a gymbro and my gym does color grading but I can do 7a’s on a moonboard within 5 tries. I have never really trained my fingers and when I decided to test it about 1 year mark I could hang 160%BW for 7 seconds. So obviously I got finger strength by just climbing. and I don’t think I’m still at the point where I need to improve my fingers because I can’t hold on to the holds. Most of time when I can’t do a move it’s just bad technique and body position/movement that makes it hard.

>>196331
So in my opinion as a gumby myself as cliche and dumb as it sounds just climb more or harder if you are climbing 3/4 times a week already. The most important thing is to do it intentionally.

I am eternally grateful for everything climbing has done for me
This really is the best hobby on earth

I am merely a year in
I am trying to fast track progress because I know I am made for this

>>196331
You should definitely keep hangboarding

Hangboarding should start before climbing does really

So I found out that my gym grades 5.10s as V3s.
I feel less bad about climbing 5.10- now than I did before because that is probably where I'm at in bouldering too.

You don't really get stronger from climbing
You just get more confident and bullish at certain final moves
Grip strength is absolutely paramount

>>196478
For context wikipedia says 5.10 is V0.

>>196451
Yeah you'll get strength by climbing, to a point, but if your sole goal is to get to v8 as quickly as possible, you'd be training grip independently from day 1. I'm not saying this is required, it's just optimal. Until you get to at least v6, technique can be substituted for brute strength alone, but no amount of technique can make up for you just physically being unable to hold the wall.
It's like Oly lifting: yes technique is important for cleans, yes you will get stronger by doing cleans. But a guy with a 500lb deadlift will mog your clean on his first attempt. Elites are all monstrously strong, in everything.

theres more to climbing than grades

>>196478
>>196480
your gym doesn't specify with 5.1xabcd? gay as fuck and means the routesetters are admitting they have no clue (minimal outdoor experience).
that said, many V6-V8 boulderbros in my gym have failed to send 5.11d when I've taken them to the nearest crag (they should be capable of 5.13a according to similar charts). several factors here but many boulderbros actually, genuinely cannot climb on easy-moderate crimps for two minutes without completely pumping out. they have climbing power and technique but never learned to climb efficiently, not overgrip, find rest positions, do shakeouts to alleviate pump (even when just moving between holds) and so on.
>>196479
are you the same guy posting the same retarded bullshit day after day? stop posting sperg. of fucking course your forearm flexors+extensors, traps, delts, brachioradialis, transversus abdominus, wrist tfcc, finger flexor+extensor tendons, finger pulleys et cetera et cetera et cetera all get worked extensively when climbing, and those areas are precisely what you need strengthened to climb harder. many grip positions have absolutely zero relevance to climbing—you couldn't be more clueless. never post again faggot

>>196495
>he thinks a muscle being "worked" makes it stronger
Go curl a soup can 10000 times and tell me how strong your bicep gets

>>196497
you've never crimped a small edge in your life. never post again sperg

i dont think it was the techbros that ruined climbing, atleast they are buyfags and will probably get into trad eventually, the strength-training-gym bros are way worse...

>>196479
>>196492
>>196497
>he thinks there's no progressive overload of the forearms and hands in climbing
Way to admit you project v2. Where do you think grip strength comes from?
>no amount of technique can make up for you just physically being unable to hold the wall
Of course the retard is also a fat amerimutt.
>>196499
what kind of rocks do you go to where you see a bunch of tech dyels? they hate lugging gear. /out/ is crusty beer-lovin white dude domain (and that's a good thing), with a smattering of degenerate vanners

>>196500
>what kind of rocks do you go to where you see a bunch of tech dyels? they hate lugging gear.
fair, i dont really see many people outside in my area anyways i guess bc i live in a small town.
desu ive never focused on training grip strength and im projecting 7a+ (hoping to get it in my next few sessions) outdoors after 1.5 years of climbing, my technique is good though and grip strength is still pretty good too probably (have never measured it properly). i feel like the biggest thing holding me back is my low power endurance making me fall from pumping out rather than my fingers giving out

>>196498
>>196500
Of course there is progressive overload and strength increase when practicing climbs. It's just not the optimal amount. There's no reason to think climbing walls would be the optimal progression for training finger strength. Doing judo makes your legs and back stronger, too; that doesn't make it the best way to increase your judo strength. It's far more efficient to squat and deadlift.

the people coping about strength are the same bjj fags coping when they roll with a white belt powerlifter and get cucked

>>196502
you've not once mentioned hangboarding in a dozen posts. why? probably because you're so retarded you think plate pinches or farmer's walks are more applicable to climbing """grip strength""" than small edge pulling. never post again aspie

>>196504
>>196425
>you hangboard

My entire premise has been that you hangboard, among other applicable things. Hangboarding is probably the most efficient and applicable method for this sport.

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>>196505
never post again you low-functioning drooler

>>196508
Not me retard

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nice weather this time of year

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>>196300
only us /out/ exiles

>>196505
But why waste time focusing on finger strength when it’s 1 aspect of dozens that you have to train for climbing when you train most of the things together while actually climbing. Why don’t you also isolate other stuff like forearm endurance with other of the wall exercise etc.
You overestimate the importance of finger strength training while downplaying the amount of strength you gain from climbing alone. While in the totality of the sport it’s one of the 30 things that you have to train.

>>196535
this is some fucking cool rock, working on any fun projects?

>>196558
Depends on what you're doing. Bouldering indoors is not generally limited by endurance for a single route. Also climbing outside is retarded so yeah

https://gizmodo.com/indoor-climbing-gyms-might-be-chock-full-of-toxic-rubbe-1851454391

Bros...

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Should I mask up down the climbing depot?

>>196479
Interesting claim considering that steep board climbing is one of the most important methods elites use to strengthen their fingers.

Had a dire climb today
Seemed to just keep falling off all over the place
20mm hang progressed though haha

I have only ever seen one other person doing weighted hangs in the last year at my Bouldering gym

>>196568
It's so ogre

>>196568
cool. I was there when they took the samples at my climbing gym. I had thought they were looking at how much chalk is in the air. would be nice to know which of the anonymized data sets is my gym

>>196368
climbing a lot and jumping off the wall fucked up my running for a while last year because of this
ALWAYS downclimb

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gFo4Ih4VBfY

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>>196297
>>196300
>>196535

I've made an attempt to revive the /out/ climbing thread:
>>>/out//2728649

If anyone has outdoor climbing stories, questions, or curiosity, please give it a bump. /out/ is much faster than /xs/ and the thread will likely get bumped off the board if it doesn't attract interest.

>>196663
>fucked up the link
it's always something

>>>/out/2728649

>>196563
>Also climbing outside is retarded so yeah
the worst part is that you typed this unironically. you are subhuman.

>>196563
>Also climbing outside is retarded so yeah
So this is where we're at already...

the amount of bait in this thread is worrying.
there is no reason to chase grades unless you want to do competitions. go outside.

Climbing seems like a fun hobby, I don't think I'll ever do it though because I don't go around people

>>196705
bouldering is fun and can be done solo. if you do some research you can rope solo as well.

having said that, stop being a pussy and talk to people

>>196669
And comp bouldering is not even real climbing. It’s practically ninja warrior. The only real climbing left in comp climbing is lead

>Brooke Rab totally shits the bed at the boulder final despite clearly being the chosen fav to go to Paris (has not even gotten a ticket) and has all the sponsorships whereas Natalia Grossman completely spanks and makes her look like a gumby
Kek mommy and daddy’s nam can’t get you to Paris, Brooke — whereas Natalia got there simply by talent

>>196724
Climbing Stuff is such an annoying insufferable faggot. No idea how people watch his videos

I will never understand slab hate (at least so long as the slab routes aren't contrived running parkour moves). It's weird seeing experienced guys at the gym flash V7 and then utterly fail V4 slab for 15 minutes before giving up.

>>196762
It's scary, I feel like if I fall I'll hit my face on the holds.

>>196762
My gym has like 3m of vertical bouldering wall and there's always one problem that's too easy to learn anything and one problem that I have absolutely no idea how to even start. I guess I could go to this other gym that has more slab and more comp style stuff but it doesn't have the same atmosphere that gets me pumped to try hard.

>>196763
Also the holds all suck

>>196762
slab outdoors is super fun, slab indoors sucks

>>196725
>No idea how people watch his videos
People do? Watched a video once and couldn't stand his faggy behaviour.
Now YT always recommends his shitty videos..

>>196725
>Climbing Stuff
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AYx_tgrd2WA
lol
lmao even

how fucking bad is this guy?

nico pelorson has the best climbing yt without a doubt https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CBS_nOUZUFY

>>196797
based

I do not speak french

>>196762
>>196763
every slab problem can fucking cheesegrater your skin
it doesn't help when a gym has shitty setting and puts some giant block on the bottom of the wall for a V1 slab that you'll fall right on when trying the V5 slab problem that looks like it'll instantly destroy your ankle if you hit it at a weird angle

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wBn5d6qPdxI

this is so much less awkward than the magnus video, emil i know you post here

how many of you have actually done a knee bar that truly gave you an advantage? so, doing one just for the sake of doing one (not ideal beta / didn't provide rest when it was needed) doesn't count. the implication I get from talking with people is that 95% of climbers haven't really done one, and that makes sense since it's only advanced climbers who regularly lead steep overhangs outdoors (where you're most likely to encounter one).
that said gyms could set really contrived kneebars which is why I'm curious

>>196909
I refuse to do a contrived kneebar in an indoor gym when it doesn’t make sense. Lazy routesetting trying to be IFSC routesetting

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>>196909
Here's my friend on a boulder problem a couple weeks ago. The last move with the right hand is extremely difficult without the knee bar.

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>>196913
Another angle. This is a V2 by the way; not advanced climbing.

>>196909
my gym often has boulders where they force a knee bar for establishing the starting position or for matching the top.
they also set boulders where knee bars give you a significant advantage and sometimes it's the only feasible beta.
lastly, they like to set really long roof climbs from time to time, where you might spot a nice knee bar rest.

>>196913
>>196914
Looks like a very fun V2

Thinking about becoming a climbing coach. Thought? Matty Hong is my favorite climber

>>196918
It was a ton of fun, and right at our level. My friends both sent on the second session. The last move is a big dyno to the top, so we were all very stoked.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106657537/high-noon

>>196919
Remember to do your part to support under-represented demographics by only coaching teenage girls.

>>196913
>>196914
neat!

>>196909
kneebars are not uncommon in my gym
I also found a couple of unintended ones that helped me

there currently is a problem in my gym where you can do a stacked kneebar to match the top

>>196909
did a handful of boulders in my gym in the last few years that 'required' a kneebar to hold the start position.
but apart from these, I think never

>>196784
>>196725
I'm confused what he is trying to achieve. He is a very average climber so I don't understand why anyone would take any advice from him. Who is his target audience? And why does he record his videos with so much gaming stuff in the background? I thought he was a twitch streamer at first.

>>196810
Are you serious? I thought it was so much more awkward. Emil and Felix had literally no chemistry at all.

>>196300
No, I started like 5 months ago now, still climbing V2, but I can onsight them.
I feel like that isn't even good enough to do V0 outdoors.

>>196810
pewdiepie was trying so hard to be nice to emil, you're either a literal autist or are blinded by magnus hate. emil is more of a faker than magnus actually, since at least magnus is honest about chasing the bag. emil does shit like lie to a million viewers about how his wacky, invented hangboard routine allowed him to hang on 6mm for the first time (obvious, demonstrably false lie as he's a relatively strong climber for V14 even; all the metrics were faked (and debunked) for views and clout)

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>>197011
I think you are right that your options are limited for outdoor bouldering. Don't overlook sport climbing though. If you can find a partner, there's awesome stuff out there for all ability levels. My parents are in their 60s and climb 5.6. Pic related is from the middle of a 5.7 route--well within your abilities.

kino for the day https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IaxHcntnnIo

>>196909
Yeah, plenty of times.
One of the bouldering gyms I go to has a pretty massive roof section and there are often knee bars to be found there which are either essential for getting certain moves or just let you rest a bit when they've set some monster problem that'd be a lead route if it was running up a wall instead of along a roof.
Less often at my lead gym funnily enough. Only once actually and even then it wouldn't have been necessary if my endurance was better.

>>196724
hey where is ai mori, did she retire or get injured or something? i don't think she is been in any comps lately

>>197056
I recall she said she’ll be taking time off to focus on studying.

I do not care for outdoor bouldering. When the whole thing is done and my pad rentals are returned it feels like a major wasted effort to have just done a few slippery moves. Did more than a dozen outdoor boulders in a day once and still had the same feeling.

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>>197067
I feel you but I've also had some great experiences bouldering. As a social activity it's a lot better than rope climbing because you have everyone there cheering you on and working together for the whole route, rather than taking off on your own for 20 minutes every time you climb. And finding the correct beta is a great collaborative experience.

Just had a great sesh
Did a load of intermediate grades 6B+6C then finished up with dat dere 20mm max hangs
Feeling strong overall and happy with where I am one year in

Didn't look at any sl*b at all today lol
Not sure this is a good habit to get into

>>196331
bodyweight is not as much as a problem as ratio. if you have alot more fat that wont help much with powerlifting anyway. go on a diet with more meats and some leaf and less breads and rice also more protein will lean you out

>>197056
>skips two comps the year of the olympics
>OMG did she retire?

>>197086
The lowest rated route at my local crag (or so says Mountain Project) is a fantastic and interesting 70ft 5.10c slab. Genuinely believe that most climbers who started in the last last ~10yrs would be shockingly awful at scrambling if they actually went /out/ and tried it. all this skill on the wall but zero (0) ability on your everyday steep slpes is truly embarrassing.

i liked how Alex Honnold said during the Salt Lake City boulder competition commentary that he climbed for years exclusively indoors and that it can teach you all the skills needed for being a strong outdoor climber

keep seething, outdoor bros

>>197120
I don't think anyone has ever argued that gym climbing isn't a great way to train. You can see the results when lifelong comp climbers retire and start crushing insanely hard sport routes or boulder problems outdoors. But at some point you have to stop training for it and start actually doing it. It's called rock climbing not plastic climbing.

>>197120
>i liked how Alex Honnold said during the Salt Lake City boulder competition commentary that he climbed for years exclusively indoors
Why are you deliberately ignoring the specific part of this context where he said that was when he was a kid doing comp…

>>197124
>I don't think anyone has ever argued that gym climbing isn't a great way to train.
some spergs in this thread definitely have

>>197120
Your inferiority complex is showing.

Finger injury anons, how we doin?

>>197127
How does that negate the statement?

>>197302
Good, back to climbing without tape.
Still warming up more than before just to be safe

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>>196300

yeah buddy, working on my first v9 (Not pictured this is warmup v5)

>>196913

Why do I feel like a heel hook here would be even better than a knee bar.

>>197302
not good... i keep forgetting to do my daily rehab exercises because im a fucking retard

>>197322
what happened to your hand?

>>197328

Nothing , it does look wierd but my right hand thumb is under my fingers pinching .

>>197323
Believe me it's not. That's the first thing we tried. With the knee bar you can almost stick with no hands at all.

>>197322
nice tan and hat my nigga, and good luck with the proj

>>196443
clockwise
>make friends at the gym, you already have aligned interests
>that shit will keep you alive dont be a gumbofaggot and trust your gear
>touch grass literally
>get belay certified
>you'll have as many climbers partners as you want
>just ask for beta
>so? thats not important to climbing additionally everyone in your gym is poly
>embrace the suck now, you weren't a climber back then
>nigga i stg see if your gym has a community board and post up that youre looking for a belaypartner that climbs 5.6

my climbing shoes scrape really hard on the top of my index toes oww :'(

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C64WOKzs9kc/

If she ever starts projecting outdoors we'll likely see 8C+ and even 9A FFA

>>197302
it doesn't hurt anymore and i've been back to climbing normally for a while but i think my mobility is fucked up for good, the knuckle in the PIP joint makes that joint popping sound every time i use it, and often the tendon seems to be in the wrong position or something, i feel it gliding and falling into place inbetween the movement it doesn't hurt but it's somewhat scary

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natsu-chan kawaii

>>197505
That top out looks really sketchy

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tIUuiLKQt3U
what grade would you give this climb?

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>>196300
Sometimes.

>>197546
Red rock canyon? Went in April. Want to go back soon

>>197548
Yup, along with almost everyone else in this thread lol. The boulderers look like they're at calico basin, but I may be wrong.

>>197538
O2

>>197505
I want her to dom me so badly

>>197505
what's the distance between men and woman's sections, could she compete among the men? she always mops the floor with everyone in her section, last world cup she got like 4 tops with 3 flashes and the next best woman struggled to get 2 tops and 2 zones or something like that, it's ridiculous

>>197614
We just don't know. But sending a benchmark V15 in less than a half hour puts her near the top of the field, physically. And she obviously has the competitive climbing skill to go with.

>>197614
>>197615
we do, somewhat
in the qualifiers for studio bloc masters men and women climb the same boulders, in quali results (2020 i think, and 2019 was similar) she would've been like 57th in mens and not even made semis
she could have chilled somewhat if all the other women were so far below her to rest for next day, so not an exact comparison, but highly probable she wouldn't make finals, and probably not semis either

>>197615
not to quibble too much but she didn't send a new, raw v15 in under half an hour, she'd done the v14 stand previously which is a big difference

>>197617
Ah, I didn't know this

>>197616
This is also revealing

>>197617
Yeah, two years ago…

>>197619
obviously the muscle memory isn't there but knowing the exact beta you want to use is huge
bugeleisen has fair few options, i know niky ceria found some particular methods for his size

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>want a new hobby, ideally one where I can make new friends
>always had an interest in /xs/ports but kind of limited based on finances and location.
>settle on rock climbing since it seems most accessible and fairly cheap.
>try out local climbing gym, it's in a pretty liberal city.
>just the 2nd time there and I see a /pol/ caricature tier troon. Not even remotely passing. It's literally just a man in drag.

What the fuck is this shit? I tried another climbing gym and they even had tranny flags over the door. You look at old climbing magazines and it's all ripped long haired white guys, like your stereotypical surfer. Why has rock climbing specifically been hit so hard by these freaks?

>>197645
>white guys climb rocks
>white guys want training facilities
>gyms are built. white guy needs belay bitches
>whitey invites females and other submissive types
>submissive types feel distinct lack of true competition because climbing is a hobby , not a sport
>submissive losers subsequently feel safe and invite more submissive losers who invite faggots who invite more faggots
>faggots invite the subhumans
>normal white guy is now outnumbered so he climbs outside more and builds a home wall
>faggotry continues to intensify
>Gyms are now Doom 'Gore Nests' of turbofaggots and subhumans

>>197645
>it's in a pretty liberal city
there's your problem

>>197651
also much more of a problem in america generally than in eu/asia

just climb you spergs

>>196762
There's no need to try to do everything equally well, just do what you enjoy.
It's weird to me that slab and overhang use the same grading system, and are even considered the same kind of climbing. Slab bouldering is way more similar to slab sport climbing than overhang bouldering, for example.
You don't have to bigwall climb to be a climber, and you don't have to slab boulder to be a boulderer.

>>197647
does outdoor climbing attract better people? I just want to meet some chill normal people man. Not freaks with axe wounds on their crotch.

>>197651
>finding a rock climbing gym outside of a major metropolitan area.
I've never seen a climbing gym in a rural area.

>>197652
I've literally seen only a single rainbow hair ultra dyke ever and that was in Vienna in the most faggoty climbing gym imaginable.
So we're still relatively save here

>>197647
>life is like vidya game

>>197717
It attracts more traditionally outdoorsy people and more masculine men. >>197738
Outdoor climbers develop a better understanding of real risk, good movement, actually trying hard, and not being a little bitch cause their skin hurts. They're more likely, but not guaranteed, to call you out for making excuses or just being soft.

In general, outdoor climbing filters a great amount of the undesirables. Poors can't afford gear; weaklings won't want to hike in gear, especially uphill; pussies won't want to lead routes or climb highballs; and faggots and trannies don't like leaving their little city safe-spaces. It's all around way better. The only issue is that it's harder to meet people outdoors unless you're climbing in a high-density and accessible area, which brings the undesirables back into play.

Ideally, meet some good climbers at the gym by climbing the moonboard or tensionboard (the kilterboard is for faggots). Then climb with them outside.

>>197738
Yes, good job latching onto the analogy as if that were the only relevant detail, retard

>>197777
are there such things as outdoor climbing classes where they teach you how to do it?

also, checked. Nice quads.

>>197777
great quads
>>197795
historically at my gym depending on the season there will be a gym to crag program, which is usually done by someone who is a certified guide. check with the front desk of a climbing gym, they might have a similar thing or can point you the right direction. keywords for online searches would include "rock climbing guide in my area"

>>197645
>US problems

what in the actual fuck is going on with FIN trad grades? I lead ~6c routes in my local climbing gyms, but finnish trad aroung ~5 is my absolute limit.

What do i do wrong? or are they just horribly, horribly sandbagged? i also climb WI4 ice, so i shouldn't be that bad outside the gym environment.

i do not boulder, like at all.

>>197809
don't know about finland but in spain, back in the beginnings there was nothing upwards from V, they only graded something 6 if they couldn't climb it, and had to use artificial for example. so now many routes say 6 but they can be basically anything, guides always warn that you must be prepared to bail at any point if you go into a route without having good info beforehand

>>197809
I'd wager 99% of this thread can't relate to your climbing repertoire

>>197645
The more invested you get into the sport the more you see regular white dudes and asian dudes. There's lots of trannies and annoying reddit types at the large commercial gyms, but you will rarely see them outdoors. In my city, the biggest commerical bouldering gym has a ton of losers but the smaller gym I go to has regular ass people.

>>197809
According to google, Finland has a totally different grading system. Like an extremely sandbagged version of UIAA grades.

>>197822
i think all of scandinavia maybe, i remember reading some article about norway having similar grading system
i'd guess some newer routes get yds grades

>>197809
I’ve got no personal experience about that but I read a blog about Nordic climbing the other day and the guys said that some (many) of the crags in Finland are properly sandbagged.

>>197777
>(the kilterboard is for faggots)
based. fucking retards climb on gym jugs and think they're V10 level

the olympics qualis are on the olympics yt channel not the ifsc one if anyone is looking for them

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so is rabbit going to the Olympics or not? idk how this works

>>198207
She has to place in this china thing I guess. I don't know how many stops they're giving out here. Is it just winner or top 3 or what?

>>198200
For me it's only on their own website. A website that is a bloated half broken mess, that I can't use on firefox because it's completely broken on that browser, and how to use windows edge to get it to work.

>>198207
>>198210
Hang on i'm watching girls boulder final now and groom said something about they have to go compete in stage 2 of this oqs deal in some other city, then they get olympic spots. i guess. it's weird.

I find progression at 20mm max hangs thrilling
In one year I have only ever seen one other person doing them, it boggles the mind

Quite mad how a V2 at the climbing works Sheffield, is a V6 in californian climbing centres

>>198221
>V2
>V6

gym grades are not V-grades anon

>>198217
Yeah, basically it's the top 10 athletes with the most points after both the shangai and budapest events that are qualified (bar some rules with quotas). But Rabouttou should easily makes it desu.

>>198207
She’s a fraud and the world is just finding out. Natalia is way superior and could actually qualify for the olympics

how many world cup podiums do you need before you're not a comp climbing fraud

>>198240
When are you going to stop being a passive aggressive little bitch? Maybe the day Rabfraud gets more than 1 gold KWAB

>>198233
Natalie has already qualified you dunce

Normies aren't doing 20mm max hangs

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How can one man be so based?

>>198271
Are you illiterate?

Explain what you mean by fraud dumb fuck. Is the footage where she is clearly better than most of the field faked? Is the "Brooke Raboutou" who does the climbing a different person to the real Brooke Raboutou?

If you have some beef that's fine but whine about what you actually mean instead of some schizo reality-denying horseshit.

>>198289
eat your mcdoubles

>>198266
this is needlessly rude to the bunnytou.

Alright, let’s see.
Natalia Grossman:
>highest grade in bouldering - V13
>highest grade redpoint - 5.14b
Brooke Raboutou:
>highest grade in bouldering - V16 (she suggested V15)
>highest grade redpoint - 5.14c
I suppose this settles it then.

>>198309
>she suggested V15
So did Shawn and Drew, and D Woods agreed (FA). Box Therapy is as downgraded as it gets. Not to argue your point.

Also unrelated but nobody over 5'7" has sent this boulder lol
>Daniel Woods 5'7"
>Drew Ruana 5'7"
>Sean Bailey 5'4"
>Katie Lamb 5'5"
>Brooke Rabatou 5'2"
>Shawn Rabatou 5'6"

>>198310
LMAO let the manlets have that one

>>198200
>>198212
is there the Women's Lead final video somewhere?
i found and watched the Men's final just fine in the Olympics YouTube channel, but the video labeled "LIVE Sport Climbing: Women's Boulder & Lead Finals! | #OlympicQualifierSeries" contains only boulder.
not to mention the presentation of intermediate results in the video, which is either missing, or severely lacking
and not to mention that when i tried looking at the Olympics website, it immediately spoiled the final results for me

I absolutely hate max bouldering grades even being considered for how elite a climber is as opposed to redpoints. Those "elite" shitters who cut loose 8 times on a single V15 send would never redpoint 5.15b anywhere (and that's why you have nobodies and teens doing this often).
>climbing styles have just changed bro
yes, but not actually to this extent—custom-tailored boulders for the campus board troglodytes obviously miss out on most of what makes climbing, climbing. Let's step back for a moment and remember bouldering is inherently contrived as opposed to outdoor rope climbing.
Climbing in any style that takes more than a minute (and more than just a few moves) will always be a better metric of climbing ability. Retards are out here min-maxing niche aspects of climbing (this is part of the reason why most people hate speed climbing as a discipline and yet most people have nothing but praise for this tension-less bouldering up-and-comers)

>>198339
lead is lead, bouldering is bouldering. and it kinda makes sense to me to measure bouldering ability by the boulder grades.

see >>198309
>gave both lead grades and boulder grades
>one climber has both numbers higher, the other has both lower

also the Olympic competition is gonna be Lead+Boulder, which again makes it kinda relevant

>>198339
I think it makes the most sense to describe an elite climber's ability in terms of his accomplishments in the discipline he specialises in, although I don't believe something as multifaceted as climbing ability can be accurately wrapped up in a single number.

I hear you lads like getting pumped on the wall

Woah Brooke is better than the Malaysian, Chinese, and South Africans that she competes against when Natalia, Janja, and other Jap climbers decide not to compete? Say it ain’t so! She is soooo elite.

>>198369
I’d rather watch superior climbers doing comp climbing than superior comp climbers doing comp climbing.

>>197825
The Norwegian and Swedish (almost the same) grades are the same as the French until you reach 6a (6- in Norwegian). They don't have the letter grades, so a 6a+ is a norwegian 6, 6b is 6+, 6b+ is 7- and so on. The fins have something similar but a bit more sandbagged. Historically the Norwegian grading system is also supposed to be based only on the hardest part of a route instead of overall difficulty, so older routes with Norwegian grades can hit you like a truck.

>>198339
You fucking retard Dwoods has sent La Capella

damn these threads are so dead

>>198289
ignoring bullshit online

>>198480
it's better than 500 garbage posts

Progressing at weighted pulls and 20mm max hangs is as close as life feels to a video game

>>198577
I recommend playing more interesting videogames.

Anyone else do weighted chin-ups instead of pull-ups? I consider the movement healthier and the crossover between the exercises is monumental

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How do you guys store your climbing gear? I just toss mine on the couch between going to the gym, which isn't ideal.

>>198582
In a dry place away from sunlight

>>198582
It all lives in my car. Including all my sport/trad gear, a crash pad, and all my camping stuff. The car smells like dirt but it's extremely convenient.

>>197368
Thx brotha ! It’s Arizona so gotta get shade where ya can

>>196604
weighted hangs scare me
i have been climbing 5 years, still dont weighted hang. just doing a lot more endurance training and recovery hangs
maybe this year will be the year i start it though, i should just get gorilla strong already and finally hit v10 on the mb

I've been 20mm max hangs for the last 8 months and today for the first time perhaps I just felt like it was making noticeable difference
But when I went to do hangboarding at the end (as usual) my grip strength felt really weak. Did I simply cook my hands or something during climbing where I was pushing new limits? Id ike to keep hangboarding at the end because I've found generally my hands are stronger very warmed up.
Maybe the hangboard was just sweaty lol

>>198725
I would suggest you change to endurance based hangs if you want to continue to do them at the end of your workout.
If you really want to do max hangs and climb the same day at least do the max hangs in the middle of the workout. That way you are warmed up and still have gas in the tank to do them. After max hangs you can still climb relatively hard at least in my experience.

>>198770
Yeah I may experiment with the middle of the climb
I just couldn't reconcile how strong I felt during my climb with how weak I felt doing my hangboarding yesterday

and endurance based hangs just not for me
I like simple and clear progressive overload

>>198776
Not all endurance-based hangs are bodyweight. You can do repeaters with ~60% of max hang weight and increase weight over time. Either way, doing max hangs at the end of your workout is for sure suboptimal and may result in injury.

>>197822
>>197825
For a very autistic sport you guys can't even come up with a single size fits all grading system? Why not just belt ranks like Japan does it?: https://tokyoclimbing.org/the-kyu-and-dan-ranking-system-bouldering-grades-in-japan/

Is it the need to feel special?

>>198776
Start with testing out your max, record that as your max, do 75% of that 5 times a day, increase by one rep until you have 8 reps under your belt from hanging, by then you should have enough grip strength on those fingers for a lot of things.

>>198930
I don't know what problem you're trying to solve or how using one regional grading system over the others is meant to solve it.

I'm not sure what is going to happen when my 20mm max hang catches up with my pull down strength but it will surely be something positive

>>198901
I dearly hope I wont get injured
I don't think I will, it's 20mm max hang for a reason, not 10mm max hang

>>199036
I do max hangs on 15mm and I'm fine

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>>198930
how about i kick your ass you fucking faggot

once again I am here to say that I HATE Geek Climber
also not really a fan of that Rockentry fella especially after that awful video where Magnus was pretending he was David Goggins and slowly forced himself to run a marathon in death valley
what other smaller climbing youtube channels are completely insufferable?

>>199343
>I HATE Geek Climber
fully understandable but why specifically now?

>>199343
i also hate geek climber and rockentry
rockentry just seems like a dickhead, i cant put my finger on it
i hate most climbing "influencers," i have a couple at my gym and they cant climb for shit

i read a tip on MP that if you cut your toenails like a square instead of rounding it like on your fingernails then it prevents you from getting ingrown toenails, have been doing this for a few months now and its actually fixed my half-ingrown toenail :) would recommend

>>199365
he's just been making youtube shorts and reels out of his old videos to get more attention without actually putting out a new video
dude also hasn't even talked about climbing specifically in years, he just does calisthenics shit and is really weirdly gay around men who are more muscular than him

Been suffering from a trigger finger while going climbing for about 2 months now. How retarded am I? Physical therapy didn't do shit so I'll probably go get a corticosteroid injection soon

>>199371
>be me. climbing outside for about 90 mins already
>rockentry shows up with a couple friends to the boulder I've been at for a half hour
>don't wanna be a sperg so literally just say 'hey what's good'
>ignores me and then sprays down his friends on a shitty v6
>fails to send the shitty v6
>laugh internally as I pack my stuff to go

Rockentry is a massive faggot and is a clear case of nominative determinism. Oswaldo. He never even had a chance but at least he could show a little shame for being such a queer.

alright bros I got a summer pass to my gym, time to hit V6 again and a 4pl8 deadlift

>>199512
>memelift
>redditlift
Nah

>>199513
and a large diet coke

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are shoes aid?

>>199511

Are any famous Instagram climbers ever nice?


Avoid Red Rocks in Primo season at all costs.

>>199375
thanks anon, i'll try this. I was actually thinking about getting my big toenail chemically removed. matrixectomy

Every time I hang off a 20mm edge with weight between my legs
Is another normie liquidated

dubs and i do runout slab today

>>199601
nevermind then it just started raining... so much for the "sunny no clouds all day" forecast

Progressing at 20mm max hangs is exhilarating
I am in search of lost time

>>199604
Roof > Slab

I can't tell you much I detest any climbing that isn't actual climbing
All I want from a climbing centre is something that just keeps it simple
No stupid Dyno moves, no big retarded mounds or whatever
I just want to climb, overhang, with ever more increasing challenging grips

Literally all I want from a climbing centre is to be able to actually climb,.not get stuck on some retarded gimmicky shit first up

>>199660

I mean the future of climbing is more obtuse volumetric climbing , the days of crimp hard pull hard are over.

Flexiblity and movement are 90% of these new gyms nowadays.

>>199660
learn 2 spray wall

>>199604
kek the forecast here said it would be raining all day and it only sprinkled a couple times

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Bros when you see a tiny slopey foot chip, do you try to put your big toe directly on it or more smear between the wall and a chip?

Dave McLeod is test cricket in climbing form

>>199751
Yes

genuinely fucking seethe when I see some normie douche with no grip strength, who can 5 pulls up max, climbing things I can't
this world is fucked

>>199836
are you like 4'3 or something

The only thing holding me back is my fucking tennis elbow that has never disappeared even after all the rest and physical therapy

>>199836
>>199838
no he probably is just someone who has never thought about technique for one nanosecond
just use your feet and stop abusing your "grip strength" bro

>>199836
Technical ability is far more impressive than brute strength, in my opinion.

>>199660
i'm sick of dynos lol they're just a shoulder tear waiting to happen for older people

>Imagine doing what you’re told for your entire life. You get decent grades. You go to college. You study computer science, or business, because that’s what’s employable. You nab the right summer internships. You graduate. You clock in at Google or McKinsey or some other exclusive-enough corporate entity that held recruitment sessions on campus that day you nearly had your first existential spiral.
>You move to Williamsburg or Greenpoint because, unlike your less discerning peers who moved to Murray Hill, you like vinyl listening bars and have a New Yorker tote bag. As those early twenties tick by, an emptiness begins to seep into your body. You can’t place it. Why is this happening to you? You did what everyone said to do and more. You should be happy.
> Several omakase first dates later, you start to realize that it’s not your lackluster love life. Actually, it’s your corporate job that might be the problem. Sure, it pays for your $4,500/month one-bedroom and imparts the kind of brand recognition wherein everyone back home has now concluded you’ve “made it”— all without forcing you to develop any real skills, or the necessity of ever sacrificing happy hour in the East Village. But it does plant inside of you a growing void. You can now detect a hollowness with every Slack message sent, a numbness when the direct deposit hits your account every other Friday.
>So, what do you do now? In your search of greater meaning in this Sweetgreenified life, you decide to go to the climbing gym.

>>199909
>You sign up for the annual $1,450 membership because you’re committed. You acquire a starter bundle of shoes, a harness and chalk for $69.93. Might as well become a member at REI while you’re at it, right? No excuses. This is the new you.
>And at first, the novelty is what excites you. All the new gear, a new lunch hour tradish where you watch YouTube videos about techniques and equipment reviews. The climbing gym becomes a glossy and safe setting just suggestive enough of wild terrain to make your heart pump with vigor again, surrounded as you are now by a new abundance of similarly-valued people. Gradually, that void deep inside seems to shrink.
>The holds on the walls at the gym are color-coded by intensity. You work your way up from baby blue to a nice, testosterony red as the months go on. The similarly-valued, questionably employed guys who also keep showing up at 2 PM on Thursdays and Fridays start to notice you, and in time, you all become friends. A groupchat is formed for volleying various climbing videos and unsolicited tips back and forth. You hit the sauna together after your sessions, and you often follow that up with craft beers at the brewery of the month for trivia night.
> You’re blissfully unaware that this is all contrived — that an elaborate scheme of marketers, brand consultants, social media influencers and real estate developers all converged to ensure that you’d end up right where you are now, giving your spare time and money to a big boy playpen. But you probably wouldn’t mind too much if you did know

>>199911
>One day you’re at the gym. You crush a new route you’ve never crushed before. You hit send on the self-timed video to the ClimbingGang™ groupchat, inciting the bombardment of all the usual “siiiiick,” “yooo nice!” and “aye” replies. But wait. Something’s off. You don’t feel that same manufactured sense of achievement you used to. You feel something else instead — the void, it’s back. This can’t be, you think, as the familiar emptiness creeps back up.
>You decide to fight it the only way you know. You climb even harder. You climb daily. You upgrade to the premium membership. You cop the most expensive, top-of-the line gear from REI (thank god you got that membership back then).
>But still, it persists.
>One day — your hands bloodied, your torso dripping in sweat — you stare at your Snow Peak Titanium Aurora Bottle. It’s full of water, but you, on the other hand, feel full of nothing. You now understand that you must ask yourself the real question here. Could there be, all this time, an underlying problem? And could it simply be that it’s time to quit your bullshit job? Is this your moment to look inward for once and think about what you, as a human being, might want to do with your limited time and caloric expenditure on earth?
>You entertain the thought just as much as you want to avoid it. Well, what else is there? DJing might be cool; you always liked managing the Spotify playlist at those college parties. Or, what if you ran your own coffee shop? And oh, dude, what if it was a coffee shop that also played vinyl records? And at night, it turns into a wine bar?

>>199912
>You suspect that could make you truly happy. But also, you have to get real. This is a capitalist world. Pursuing a “dream”? Think of all the ways it wouldn’t work. All that rejection. All those hours. Now that wouldn’t make you happy, would it? You start thinking faster. Oh yes. You’re really locked in now. Because if anything, that current bullshit job — with all of those meaningless seniority-based promotions, the cushy benefits — that is kind of anti-capitalist, if you think about it. There’s no “grind” or “hustle” or need to put in extra hours on weekends. And so you tell yourself that you’ve had it right all along. This soft pudding of static emptiness is much better than putting yourself through the ups and downs — the searing pains, the dangerous joys — that would come with doing something you think you love.
>So, what do you do now? You hit the pickleball court.

ok

>>199913
but i'm an autistic NEET brooklyn local who goes to the climbing gyms in new york and mogs the manlet techfags

>>199913
kinda true, but i think your analysis is half baked
people dont want these bullshit jobs, they are all that is left

>just do what you love lol

>big boy playpen
Lol it’s over for climbers

>>199913
rough day?

>>199913
Just climb outside alone with bird chirps and sunlight

>touch rock

>>199911
>the annual $1,450 membership
Wtf? That's typically around 500€ here. Are you an Aussie??

>>199989
it's new york city pricing
monthly memberships to all the climbing gyms here are like $130
you go 20 miles outside the city to a gym in new jersey and it's already way cheaper like $90 a month

>>199751
Toe, pushing inward as much as you can and if it's possible pulling a bit outward with your hands

The fact is that ever since jobs have been around, people have been doing whatever they need to in order to scrape by. It’s not some modern predicament that a man usually doesn’t work a job that’s also his life’s passion. That’s the way it’s always been. If working a decent but boring job that enables you to enjoy a life of immense material wealth is somehow the worst fate you can imagine because muh emptiness, then you need to eat shit and die, you insufferable baby.

Communists are soooooo stupid

Kek the anons seething at that probably felt it hit too close to home

Fuck yeah brahs, did two 5.11s (had to hangdog twice for the first one, three for the second) today after a 5.9 warmup, then a 5.10+. After four routes, was completely pumped. Feels so fucking good and rewarding to finally climb hard grades (to me) and seeing the fruition of my training come alive. I love climbing so much.

I managed to send my 5th or 6th 7A boulder, does that finally make me a 7A climber?
Being "heavy" (80kg) is horrible for climbing when everyone else at the same height is around 60kg in my gym...

>>200062
Good shit, brah. What is your height? There is a dude probably 210 at my gym, heavy set, who is a straight crusher. Granted he probably has to work a lot harder because of his weight, but his technique is impeccable. Showed me a video of him doing a V8 outside and I just imagined how good he could be if he just lost the weight.

>>200017
they all fall for the "le poor people are le happy" meme

>>200045
Congrats, 5.12 soon buddy! don't forget to train core and stretch

>>199511
>nominative determinism. Oswaldo

Wut? I don't deny he's a fag but his name would have to be something like brock or geo for it to be that maybe i'm missing something

>>200077
checked. good dubs
Oswaldo is a gay fuckin name. He was destined to become a faggot solely based on that. Also he talks like a drooling retard who can only fit one word in his head at a time. One can never pour enough scorn on that faggot.
>>199666
checked. nice trips.

>>199911
Irrelevant. I climb outside

I know mountaineering isnt so /cg/ but speaking of ragging on influencers. Im kinda glad nimsdai got got by the millennial climbing lady's. Who gives a fuck about siege style climbing in modern day.

>>200191
I didn't think anyone will be too upset about that one. Nims comes across as a massive prick.

Also Charles Barret just got two life sentences yesterday. I wonder who will be next? Any more famous climbers in their mid/late 30s with an oversized ego?

Kek these two dorks got so huffy puffy when someone asked to join them monopolizing the kilter board, trying to go back to back to prevent this dude from getting in an attempt. Like calm down losers, it’s a glorified jug board that only dyel asians on IG take videos of them doing

>>200217
Yet again proving the kilterboard is for massive faggots. Spray wall > tb2 > tb1 > moon > literally anything else > kilterboard

>>200217
Boardlets will never know what real rock feels like, just let them have their Instagram reel and go outside.

>>199343
What about Mani the Monkey?
https://www.youtube.com/@ManitheMonkey/videos

>>200268
Channel might be small but he's one of the first climbing tubers.
He used to be a really good outdoor climber, has some interesting content and seems like he lives a pretty sweet life in his yurt.

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/cg/ You are climbing outside this weekend right?

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>>200203
can he climb back to freedom?

anyone climb purely out of spite? i broke my ankle bouldering a few years ago and lost interest in it but now i have a spiteful desire to climb again

>>200368

mountaineering is where its at right no anyways

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>>200312
haha why wouldn't I be hahahaHaha

gonna visit the worldcup in innsbruck this month bros. my first time watching a comp

reminder: top roping is the purest form of climbing

>>200502
Based, also use your chance to climb in the KI, really nice climbing gym

>>200263
Spray wall at home and climbing 8b outside. Bet you're a 5.fun faggot or an intermediate imbecile.

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>why yes I exclusively climb the kilter board how could you tell

It's getting fucking hot and I hiked a long ways to try a problem again but no dice. It's a good hard crimp line but the challenge is that beyond the start the feet are just nonexistent. I would 100% trade downsizing the final holds by 50% for just 1 semi-decent foothold. I hate shitty feet so goddamn much. But it's good skill development so Ima keep at it.

hmmmm, today I think I will bike to the climbing gym (clueless)

>>200490
Go early , heatstroke adds one grade

>>200520
>t. Dyel Asian

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>>198930
>Why not just belt ranks like Japan does it?
dankyu is the least simple to understand and remember you literal retard. vermin increments from 0, dankyu decreases from an arbitrary number and then increments, also forcing foreigners to remember which side is dan and which side is kyu (kyu comes first despite most people calling it dankyu because fuck you)
>>199836
what do you think climbing is all about? you're a training bot who forgot to actually climb.
>>199909
>>199913
cool depression fantasy man, I find climbing fun regardless of the level I'm sending and I like that its a workout. that's all I need it to be.

>>200062
I’d say it depends if they’re all one style or if you can do 7a multiple styles and wall angles.

I define an 7a climber as someone who can rock up to most 7as and send them. Maybe has to project them but doesn’t throw their hands up and say “it’s just not my style” or whatever other excuses there are

>>199343
Pretty much any climbing channel where they’re mid at climbing but attempt to be the worlds best coach. I remember rockentry telling his viewers that he places his toe slightly above the foothold and then slides his toe down the wall onto the hold to get the most surface area. Fucking dumb.

But yeah you don’t have to be climbing Jesus but at least by v double digit to be giving climbing advice.

I also hate people who shill magnus products and ag1

>>199343
Ah I remembered another one. Noah Kane. He isn’t that experienced and does some stupid shit. It seems like he’s doing it almost on purpose to generate more comments for the algorithm

>>200062
you can call yourself whatever you want; when I'm asked about it I find it more useful to say that I can usually send X in 1 session and I've projected up to Y
>>200611
his YT shorts are so fucking bad and have a cumulative hundreds of millions of views (as is the norm for YT shorts). even though faggots like rockentry have more-insufferable personalities Noah Kane actively harms climbing to a greater extent (millions of idiots have now been misinformed or given shit advice)

flashed a couple v7s on mb 2016 today
then fell off some v3s in gym
i think this gym is sandbaggoed

>>200615
just wait until you go to bpump
basically only world cup (male) finalists climb v8 on their scale

There has always been a component within me that has enabled me to get addicted to exercise quite easily
And climbing has come around now. I don't think I will drop it like I did running (18:27 5k pb) or lifting (4 plate deadlift pb). This just feels like home, just WISH I had started earlier

>>200062
Was it 7A in Australia or California, or 7a at climbing works Sheffield?
The difference is vast. The climbs would barely even resemble one another

>>200608 #
You can basically summarise it in four words
'getting the better of'
When you are winning heavily against a grade, you can climb that grade. Its not about climbing 1 of them or all of them

>>200637
this gym only goes up to v7 as well, but its a small and grungy hole in the wall place for elitists

>>200609
another dogshit climbing channel is that Movement for Climbers guy who did a TedX talk about learning how to backflip. I remember his channel was getting sorta big until he made a "how to lift" video and he demonstrated doing benchpress with terrible form and everyone in the comments was giving him shit. All of the technique these shitty channels try to teach you in 10 minutes is so worthless. Props to Emil for making multiple videos being upfront in saying that most climbers just need to actually get stronger

>>200644
I was able to get to 4pl8 deadlift last year while climbing and maintaining a sub 19 5k, kinda hard to get past those benchmarks without specializing in one or the other though.

>>200645
7A in Austria/Central Europe which apparently is rather close to outdoor grades
[spoiler]know a guy who did a few 8A's outside but can't do most 7C's in Austrian gyms[/spoiler]

>>200663
>Props to Emil for making multiple videos being upfront in saying that most climbers just need to actually get stronger
lmao
go into any climbing gym and you'll see 9 idiots flailing around campusing v2 with zero technique for every 1 person that actually needs to train strength

>>197645
They never climb harder than v2 due to not having any testosterone. Literally start flashing v3/4 and you'll never see them again. Then its just ripped white guys, and tiny but freakishly good asian guys/girls.

>>199343
just watch tomoa

>>200923
I can't deal with the japanese tv editing on his channel.

fucking finger pain holding me back so much , you take one break in this sport and your fucked for months

>>201029
fucking lame how you take a break for a few months and you gotta ease back in with only 2 or 3 sessions a week

>>200922

what about this sport attracts tons of asians

>>201061
>and you gotta ease back in with only 2 or 3 sessions a week
I've never climbed more than 2x/week and I can regularly send outdoor 5.13c in one session. 3 years in the sport, had some stretches where I only climbed on Saturdays.
Just make your sessions really high quality. I always laugh when V6 climbers tell people that climbing less than x times a week isn't enough for progression.

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>>201062
what about football attracts tons of stocky lunkheads?
asian tech bros often have climber bodies before even starting.

>>201061
Seriously, almost blew my hand on a dual tex crimp route that I would've normally been able to do.

Rice Bucket is no help either

>>201080
interesting that tomoa's brother is also near elite but is 6'2" (absolutely massive for a japanese person)

>>201062
wish i had more asians in my gym so i can get a qt asian gf. but its just lesbians, ugly hippies and hot women with boyfriends

>>201104

Change gyms anon, everyone knows you send harder when the qt's are watching

>>200312
where is this from?

make a new thread already, i want to talk about what shoes are best for indoor top rope

>>201146
We're on page 3 you absolute gumby

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>>201176
>We're on page 3 you absolute gumby

hey guys what shoes are best for indoor top rope? I'm trans if that matters :3

>>201181
Fuck off with your gay selfies you disgusting tranny

>>200525
>Route is a VB but if you repeat it 10 times it's a V2

>>201185
i use la sportiva solutions because thats what adam ondra uses
i am 5'2 and weigh 350lbs :), but theyre super sticky and definitely help me climb hard
check my video for more pro tips! :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GaiEZFFvrkk

>>201206
i wish the solutions didnt scrape my achilles tendon so much otherwise it would be my favourite climbing shoe, the rest of my foot fits it so well

>>201206
>all just normal climbing techniques
I've always wanted to try climbing with a weighted vest, just to see if it's really that much harder to climb for fat people. Whenever somebody complains about their weight while climbing I fantasize about putting on a weighted vest and proving that they just suck. Same with short people. So tired of short climbers complaining about reach when they aren't even committing to a move.

Not that climbing isn't harder for short/fat people. It just pisses me off when they complain about it while making basic errors in technique.

>>201218
i think weighted vest climbing isn't worthwhile
better off just doing weighted pullups and hangs

>>201218
those fat people don't have proportional strength, especially for upper body stuff
notice that the fat guy in the video is basically incapable of tensing up his scapula and shoulders and can't control even a light sideways swing

Tips do climbing v8?
Anything special i need to do? I’m getting v7s reliably.

are ocun FTS crashpads any good?

>>201229
Focus on body positioning , maybe implement a hangboard routine

>>201229
Get some evolv shoes with the trax rubber

i want to climb outside so bad but its raining nearly every day ;__;

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>climbed twice in my life
>enjoyed it both times
>want to go again
>have seen multiple videos of people getting absolutely fucked from bad falls
>every time I think about going I get flashes of that video with the chinese guy in my head and then get cold feet
why does everything fun have to be dangerous bros

>>201340
pussy, live a little you will die anyways

>>201342
yeah it's pussy until my leg explodes and I can never deadlift again and then end up killing myself

>>201125
ai generated slop
>>201229
thanks for listing your weaknesses so that something of substance can be replied, retard. if v7 is your first plateau (which you make it sound like), do yourself a favor and try a moonboard / outdoor v7
>>201340
>>201343
learn to fall and then choose to downclimb when possible. you're only going to get injured if you do something retarded; don't attempt a dyno if you aren't comfortable landing with horizontal momentum, etc.

>>201340
That video is a freak accident. Guy might as well have been struck by lightning. I've been climbing for over a decade and the closest I've ever been to an accident like that is when a friend a friend sprained her ankle. Learn how to fall properly and then never worry about it again.

>>201275
Go anyway. Rain forecasts are always overly pessimistic, and often times it's just a sprinkle. Some of my best climbing days were on days with a rainy forecast.

>>196475
There is no fast progress for tendon strength. If you try you will injure your fingers 100%

>>201398
if he's really made for it then he was born with dyneema tendons

as soon as this board reaches the bump limit it dies

>>201340
It’s awesome, I saw a girl dislocate her ankle the other week at a climbing gym doing bouldering. Poor fall form. Several people at our gym have decked on autobelays recently and gotten spine injuries.

I’ve seen many near misses outside but I never say anything. Never seen a serious injury outside yet.

I guess the takeaway from this is in all cases it was the persons fault in some way shape or form, so they had control over it and either chose to ignore it or made a mistake. Don’t be that guy and you’ll be fine.