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~~Compression edition~~

>Where do I start?
People typically start in the gym and branch off outdoors and find their niche, be it bouldering, trad, sport or a mixture of the above. Some never leave the gym at all. Ultimately it doesn't matter - just get started and enjoy yourself.

>How fit do I have to be to start? Do I have to be able to do x amount of pull-ups?
Being light, strong and flexible helps at the higher levels but climbing is open to almost anyone and is fairly intuitive to most. Even if your body is feeble and weak now, you will develop strength over time by virtue of just climbing. Climbing is a holistic sport and success often hinges upon many factors, not just strength and power, but having these qualities definitely helps when you breach into the higher grades.

>What shoes do I buy?
If you're starting out in the gym, don't worry too much: get some snug shoes without dead space that don't cause you lasting pain. Some people (such as the famed shoe designer Heinz Mariacher) recommend wearing soft shoes when you're starting out -- this makes sense since your footwork will probably suck and the increased feedback will pay dividends over time. You really don't need fancy expensive shoes when you're starting out, but certain shoe properties help send harder problems (e.g. stiff shoes for standing on tiny granite edges or soft shoes for sandstone/gritstone smears).

Here are some useful resources for sizing:
>https://sizesquirrel.com/
>https://rockrun.com/blogs/the-flash-rock-run-blog/rock-climbing-shoe-sizing-guide

Old thread:
>>196297
/out/ thread:
>>2728649
>>
Here's the /out/ thread:
>>>2728649
Sorry about the initial fuck-up.
>>
>>202441
>>>/out/2728649
fuck me...
>>
It's funny my niggas. I am climbing less (like 1.75x/wk on average) and sending harder. I flashed a V5 last week, and sent a few more in 3 attempts on the bookend weeks. This is only like a month or two after my first V4 flash. I been bouldering for 6 years now, so it ain't the noob gains and it isn't soft gay shit, either. I'd rather take the downgrade than a lame soft flash. All this is outdoors, of course. I'm not a gymcel or kilterfaggot.

I dunno why this is happening. My volume (or total work) has dropped by at least 50%. There's no rhyme or reason to this but I won't complain. I'm feeling like I can squeeze another 2 grades out for hard projects this fall/winter, if this even remotely continues to track.
>>
>>202459
i bouldered around 5 years to v7 plateau on moonboard
stopped climbing 3-4x a week and started lifting 2x, climbing 2x. feel immensely stronger than i did climbing 4x a week. not even close. all the "just climb lol" fags are completely retarded
max weight hangs on 20mm edge are a cheatcode compared to even a board session
>>
inb4 newthread gets shutdown
>>
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I want to fire every single person on the IFSC production crew.
>>
>>202459
Probably your body finally has the time to properly recover between sessions.
>>
>>202473
why?
>>
>>202473
I like this secret number they've found.
>>
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>>202504
They did dirty to Ai Mori with the boulder setups.
>>
/cg/ - Bouldering General
>>
>>202543
i dont have any friends =(
>>
>>202545
same, basically. but once im skilled enough to big wall and alpine climb hopefully i can make some real pals. the brotherhood of the rope and all that

as a side note the thing about climbers being cool can be really true in my experience. but only climber's climbers, like people with a deathwish/lifewish who are inspired by the mountains and nature and have big ambitions. each free soloist i have met so far has been a pleasant person and an actual individual
>>
>>202546
everyone i ask in the gym if they want to climb outside seems to be too busy, it fucking sucks how hard it is to find partners sometimes (especially when all the local climbing clubs use f*cebook and i dont), do i just do some toprope soloing and see if someone else is doing the same?
>>
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another lovely day of just climbing
>>
>>202474
I've returned to my running roots so overall workload has gone up while my climbing workload has gone down. So it can't be recovery. In the general, total body, sense. It could be increased local recovery in forearms. I also stopped taking creatine and giving a shit about macros or hitting protein goals.

Basically doing absolutely nothing for training has increased my performance relative to training even a little.
>>
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Dude got banned from the gym today
>wall has a bunch of bolts sticking out
>like picrelated but one of those long unthreaded climbing hold bolts
>apparently it’s for some event later this weekend where they hang ribbons on them
>one guy keeps on removing them
>says they’re a safety hazard
>staff tells him to put them back
>after some complaining, guy does so
>afterwards, guy grabs a bunch of fucking bolts
>starts screwing them into the wall at random places
>people are noticing, avoiding routes or going wtf and just skipping them entirely
>staff tells him to cut it out, unscrew them all
>he tells them to fuck off, since they think having bare bolts sticking out of the wall is perfectly safe
>staff tells him he’s banned if he doesn’t remove them all now
>he flips them off, kicks the door open as he walks out
>staff screams he’s banned and to not ever come back
Who was right
>>
>>202680
The staff was less wrong. Sounds like typical cocaine user behaviour.
>>
>>202680
Where was this?
>>
>>202473
i love how they only show standings for 5 seconds, once every 5 minutes. really stimulating for my focus and memory
>>
Are they playing the ballad of gay tony theme song when Ai Mori started climbing? Lmao I don't listen to music so maybe this is based on something

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3lIymnBds4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oV8Ol5EoBo0
>>
>>202730
Oh I checked the comments its actually Eric Prydz - Pjanoo not an original song by Rockstar
>>
ai does it again lmao
>>
>wins due to count back
this semen slurping sport is not for me bros
>>
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got back from the climbing world cup, was pretty fun to see, disappointed that Ai didnt win lead even though she was faster than Janja. i saw so many random climbers in the city randomly everywhere. seo, duffy, toby and some other smaller ones
>>
>>202817
Were you in the crowd when Ai Mori failed to reach the first hold on that boulder?
>>
>>202833
how did that happen? i thought they need to take into account the height of the climbers when they set the boulders
>>
Is there merit to doing weight training after a long.climbing sash? Or would it be better to do it on another day? I have access to the gym maybe 3 times a week max, so in the interest of time it would make sense to do both climbing and conditioning on the same day no?
>>
>>202836
https://www.youtube.com/live/3j8vtQlMrP4?si=Cj_mb6z-npBsPhoE&t=3267

54:30
>>
>>202848
>>202836
I want a webm of that on a loop with Matt Groom saying "height is not a factor".
Maybe add in last year's Innsbruck comp where they did the exact same thing with the jump into a lache start (think it was Innsbruck anyway, they must really have a grudge against her)
>>
>>202848
holy shit that's embarrassing for everyone involved
>>
>>202848
>>202864
>>202866
yeah that commentator's line was fucking retarded but if we're serious about the integrity of the sport, maybe it shouldn't even be possible for a 5'1" climber to be the best (female) in the world in the first place.
"the routesetters know the heights of all the athletes"--what, so if a 4'6" 70lbs climber qualifies to be a contender at a world-class event, are the setters supposed to cater to their height? there's some point where this becomes fucking ridiculous.
retarded middling climbers everywhere complain about genetics but the only time it actually matters is in top-level competition. designing routes specifically to mitigate this results in the actual-best-climber winning less often.
I realize what I'm describing ISN'T necessarily happening, it's just the idea itself that I disagree with.
>>
>>202848
Why even set a move like that in the first place?
>>
>>202839
Is there merit? Yeah, for sure. Would it be better to do it on another day? Also, yeah.

Ideally you would lift on another day. Resistance training when your body and your muscles are already fatigued is less effective than doing it when you're fresh. This interference effect is strongest when you're really pushing yourself to the limits or when it comes to resistance training and endurance training that target the same muscle groups (e.g. climbing+back workouts, running+leg workouts). Also increases injury risk but that's just a matter of listening to your body - don't let your form deteriorate when lifting because you've exhausted yourself climbing, don't do a ton of sets if your joints are aching and irritated, etc.

On the other hand, doing some weight training is way better than nothing so if you think you're likely to skip workouts because you can't be bothered going into the gym on non-climbing days then just climb and lift together. Gains might not be as great as if you were climbing/lifting on alternate days but, fuck it, don't let perfect be the enemy of good.

>>202866
>>202864
>>202848
Here's last year

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GniLH6sXlXc&t=15m18s
>>
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>>202883
Thanks fren.
>>
>>202870
it's a grey area, i don't think it should be a codified rule that "every single climber must be physically able to do every single boulder", but obviously the setters should make efforts to give everyone a fair chance within what's reasonable

it's shit that something as untrainable as height filters people out. maybe it's ok if it happens sometimes, and very short climbers should expect a handicap of a few points every season, but this thing was fucking retarded, it was humilliating to have her jumping without even reaching the starting hold. they could have lowered the holds a bit without chaning the boulder in a meaninful way anyway, it's either they didn't think about it or they didn't care
>>
>>202728
During the last junior world championship they didn't show standings at all. Ever. You didn't find out the top 3 placings until they were standing on the podium.
>>
>>202870
>"the routesetters know the heights of all the athletes"--what, so if a 4'6" 70lbs climber qualifies to be a contender at a world-class event, are the setters supposed to cater to their height? there's some point where this becomes fucking ridiculous.
Keep in mind it is very easy to set a problem that can only be climbed by a small percentage of the athletes. You can make a boulder that can't be climbed by anyone under 6 feet, no problem no effort. Comp climbing is intended to avoid that issue and focus more on the technical and endurance side of the sport. If you put a brick wall in somewhere that automatically rules out some climbers it isn't fair and it isn't in keeping with the idea of the sport. Lazy miscalculations like this are particularly egregious when they do it as the starting hold of a boulder problem. Outcome being you have the athlete pathetically jumping towards the starting hold and missing it by a half inch every time for five minutes straight.
>>
It's a shame she's too japanese to just give the route setters the finger and walk off stage when they do this to her.
>>
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thoughts on these evolv kronos?
>>
Brooke is only 4cm taller than Ai Mori and she didn't have an issue with any of the starts.

Mori is just not explosive enough, which makes it look like she can't reach. But if she gains more muscle mass she'll likely sacrifice a bit of her lead prowess.

Tall climbers often have to work out bunched up positions with more hip flexibility or core strength, which shorter climbers don't. Just work on your weaknesses.

I really don't see the big deal.
>>
>>203075
If Ai Mori was 4cm taller she wouldn't have struggled either.
>>
>>203075
>Tall climbers often have to work out bunched up positions with more hip flexibility or core strength, which shorter climbers don't.
You could see that in the semis for this exact comp with Oce, the Australian climber, struggling with the problem everyone else cruised. She's the tallest chick in the comp and clearly struggled as a result. I'm 6'4" and I've been in that exact position on a slab, trying to press up against a volume that was just too low to effectively generate force against while at the same time having to move around the volume rather being able to step under it like my gf.
Obviously she fucked the beta too but that was likely because her height made the intended beta feel awkward.
>>
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Other than IFSC, which YT channels should I follow to watch competitive climbing?
>>
>>203083
try you're national sport climbing organisation
>>
>>203075
i would need to check the replays but it looked to me that ai was pretty close to reaching, 4cm would be enough. she could also fix it by jumping 4 cm higher but it's unreasonable to put the fault there, what if she had to jump extra 5 cm, or 6, when do you stop faulting the athlete and put the blame on the the routesetting? wouldn't it be unfair if they set a boulder that only meichi can reach? if so, it must also be unfair when a boulder can be reached by everyone except ai, it's exactly the same logic

this has to be codified somehow in the ISFC rules but i can't find it. or maybe it's considered ok because the japanese coach didn't appeal or anything
>>
>>203083
CWIF, La Sportiva Legends Only, Plywood Masters, Dock Masters.
>>
>>203088
I this case its a technique issue too. She could've launched from the foothold.

While I agree that making morpho dependant climbs isn't ideal, at some point if you're too far above or below the mean you just have to suck it up.
>>
Funny thing about the Innsbruck women's semis, there was a worse boulder in that group everyone seems to have overlooked just because the visual of Mori repeatedly failing to reach a high hold was so terrible (and it's the second time this has happened to her). The trash boulder was w4. The impossible slab. I guarantee you not one of the setters actually managed to do that entire thing start to finish during testing. Result on that boulder: 19 climbers, 1 (one single) zone, no tops. This was not a matter of technique. I suspect you needed to wear the softest possible shoes to do it. Oriane, for example, is very good at slabs and even she kept sliding off like the volumes were greased. Thing is she doesn't take a second set of shoes out to boulders with her. Not many do.
>>
>>203094
How was it impossible? Mao almost made it look easy.
>>
>>203094
*male climber casually flashes it*
>>
>>203075
Wonderful solution! She just needs to take up basketball at the expense of her actual climbing ability!
>>
>>202833
no i hadn't arrived yet in innsbruck sadly so I missed it
>>
>>203089
ty
>>
>>203094
>Thing is she doesn't take a second set of shoes out to boulders with her.
That sounds so amateurish, even some non-professional climbers take two pairs of shoes to the gym and people who get sponsors don't?
>>
What length rope should I buy if I wanna get into lead (outdoor) climbing? I've talked to some ppl who said 30/40m is far too small and should go for 70, are they bozos or onto something?
>>
>>203094
The routesetting for semis was just trash thoughout.

On the other hand, I hope the routesetters don't take this as an indication that they should just set more coordination-focused low-percentage boulders so that they can get an appearance of good separation (when in reality they're just separating athletes based on luck/chance rather than actual skill or strength)
>>
>>203155
30/40 is too small. 60 is usually a safe bet but it can depend on your location. Check out the height of crags in your area.
>>
sad I started this sport at 28yo. I'll never be able to compete. kind of bums me out. i just did normal strength training since young instead of a sport that requires skill like this
>>
>>203179
I'm starting at 34 and I'm just happy I found a good exercise that is enjoyable, becouse I hate normal gym training.
>>
Guess what grade I climb
(In run down industrial estates in Leeds opposite boarded over pubs, not in some immaculate new world city like dunedin)
>>
>>203190
VB-V0
>>
>>203187
of course im greatly enjoying it. but competing at a high level looks so fun.
>>
>>203190
like v4, maybe higher if you're on sarms and thats why you are lean
>>
>>203194
Can't make sense of this post
Elaborate
>>
>>203190
>unscathed hands
not anything interesting thats for sure...
>>
>>203196
being a lean methhead is not a strong physique for most people
12-15% bodyfat is optimal, so you are either weak or on gear to achieve it
maybe v5-v6 in most commercial gyms or v3 on moonboard
>>
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I feel like the climbing community tends to admire V17 climbers more than competitve bouldering champions, is that correct?

Also, it seems like for women the opposite happens, V15 climbers get less attention than the best competitive climbers.
>>
>>203209
everyone admires winners
>>
>>203212
Really? I thought they were completelly forgotten and ignored
>>
>>203218
point being that a woman climbing V15 is competing against the world and hasn't won anything, while a man climbing V17 is competing against the world and winning.
>>
>>203209
Now that we have v17s no-one cares about v15s no matter who climbs them. Expect everyone to forget about v17s when someone start calling their pet rock a v18.
>>
anyone here used magdust? is it worth the price? and if not, what brands would you recommend
>>
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Touched rock for the first time (in lead climbing at least), was really fun and for some fucked up reason had no problems with height or falling compared to indoors. But maybe because it was easy shit around 5b-5c.

All in all Arco was incredible, really beautiful and a lot of awesome climbing spots.
No wonder it's the 'Mecca of Climbing'
>>
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What's the equipment actually needed for weighted arm lifts for grip strength? What's the thing the weight is actually stacked on to? I am so confused.
>>
When can I start doing fingerboard? I've been climbing for like 3 months going once a week. I want to go more elbows/forearms can't really take the volume since I also lift 2x a week and am on a calorie deficit trying to get to 12% bf. I think I could add finger training in on one of the lifting days and my fingers would be recovered in time for climbing.
>>
>>203291
I'm a beginner and the the fingerboard gives me the exact same type of pain on the forearms that I get from climbing. I've tried working my fingers in a normal hangbar, but it's not the same.

I'm going light and using only the 40mm hold to avoid getting injured, as long as I feel a light pain afterwards I believe it's helping me.
>>
>>203294
>>203294
So what about using what >>203284 has in their picture? (just noticed it) but this is what I was going to start with, instead of full on fingerboard you can load it to 40lbs or something easier instead of using your body weight
>>
>>203295
Never tried it
>>
>>203294
>>203291
people usually say wait one year i think. tendons take a long time to get strong and that training is extremely intense on the fingers. i don't know why you would rush and risk pulley injury, just take it easy. and i think vast majority of people fingerboard only once a week or something like that, idk look it up
>>
>>203295
you can just keep your feet on the ground when you fingerboard
>>
>>203297
Sometimes I suspect this entire "beginners shouldn't fingerboard" thing started becouse people forget to tell them not to use full crimp
>>
I started 20mm max hangs 4 months in cause I knew that beginners shouldn't hangboard shit was baloney
I still suck at climbing atm tho
>>
>>203275
chalk is chalk. don't get suckered.
>>
>>202440
I want to get into this but I don't want to die
>>
>>203333
Just go to a bouldering gym, most of them rent climbing shoes. If you don't like it leave. They have ratings showing the easiest climbs and you can climb by yourself becouse you just fall on a cushion. If you are fit, the easier climbs could be too easy for you even at the first time (depends on the gym)
>>
>>203333
youre very unlikely to die if you dont take stupid shortcuts like not tying knots at the end of your rope or not checking the system before using it.
>>
>>203333
This sport has become incredibly safe in the past 20 years. Even outdoors. You just need to learn to do things properly, which is not at all hard. Literal retards climbing and still being alive.
>>
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Hello folks, I'm from the sourthern hemiphere, it's winter here and I need pants.

By testing pants that I already have or in stores, it seems to me that low rise (pic related) gives better mobility than stretchy or baggy pants?? That would explain Gramicci being so popular.
>>
>>203284
It's called a loading pin. I like this one because it's not chinese and you can choose the length
https://www.armassassinstrengthshop.com/products/loading-pin

>>203291
Just do recruitment pulls; pull as hard as you can while keeping your feet on the ground. If it feels like you might lift off the ground, switch from two hands to one hand.
>>
closed crimp bros i dont feel so good...
>>
Suffered a bit of a motivation loss a couple or three months ago but recent progress has got me psyched again.
>>
Why did Garnbret beat Mori in Innsbruck when Mori was faster to the last quickdraw?
>>
>>203578
Ties are broken by previous rounds, only if they are still tied after that it goes to time.
>>
>>203579
I thought count-back only matters when they are tied by time in the final.
>>
>>203580
Time doesn't make a difference as long as you complete the route in time.
>>
>>203410
Just buy cheapest hunting pants in your local sports store, they are usually light, mobile and protect your knees.
>>
>>203642
Pajama pants too
>>
How do YOU open routes in your local gyms ?
Do you plan out everything ahead and then just place it ? Do it randomly just going by whatever holds you have on hand ?
Personally, I get what moves I want people to do and then I build around by starting progressively in the bottom and making it harder as the route continues
>>
>>203646
Do you think it’s a bad idea for a beginner punter such as myself (approaching 1 year of climbing) to start trying to set problems on the spraywall?
>>
>>203647
Only true answer is it depends on your gym.
Ask bros to check how it's done and usually they will help out. In my club we incite everybody no matter the level only question how are you with lead climbing and do you know how to use autoblocker or abseiling (klemhest/prusik) knots.
>>
>>203642
>hunting pants
I prefer elastic waistband pants, and I already have some that work fine in terms of protecting my kness, but the mobility could be better

I rarelly find a boulder where the mobility actually becomes important, but it happens.
>>
i went to a climbing gym today
im fat and barely completed 2 baby routes but it was fun, way better than the shitty elliptical i was doing on my lifting rest days before
my arms hurt
>>
>>203674
There is an obese climber who makes videos and I think he also posts on 4chan ocasionally, maybe he has some usefull hints.


His channel's name is The Big Climber.
>>
>>203674
Was climbing in France a couple years ago and there was some old fat dude leading a 6c/7a slab pitch next to me. Was pretty impressive, never expected to see someone in that shape in an environment like that.
If your gym has a couple slab walls those might be interesting for you. You won't have as many problems with your weight killing your arms there, and it's good to practise some footwork.
>>
>>203674
Nice. Keep it up. Make sure to always stand on the front of the toes (not the side of your foot) to maximize grip and play around with your footwork. Try to mobilize your hips on the wall in order to shift your center of gravity. Remember, your body goes where your hips go! Essentially, dont be afraid to try out new positions with your feet and your hips between moves and when moving to a new hold. Ask yourself, can I move my feet before my arms before I do this move? These are ways to take load off your arms, fingers and skin and will enable you to rest and climb longer sessions.
>>
>Com on, you can do this, try HARD bro. Com oooon, right now. All you got, lets fucking go right now bro. Tight, tight, tight. TIIIIGHHT.
>>
>>203675
>>203674
Hi its the big climber here

climbing for us obese beasts is very different than normal sized people
the fact that you got 2 baby routes is good!
>>
>>203711
>Gamba Gamba!
cloombing can be so cringe
>>
>>203674
You will notice huge climbing gains by putting down the fork. People shy away from it because a lot of women climbers have eating disorders, but it’s true.
>>
>>203915
Magnus Midtbo talked extensivelly about eating disorders, he tried to stop eating becouse all top climber were lighter than him, even tho he had extremelly low body fat
>>
>>203646
I find a hold or set of holds I'd like to use somewhere in the middle of where the boulder would be, then I make an intro/outro to that main set of holds that I wanted to use. Another method I use it to set a boulder thematically, forcing a specific type of move or sequence
>>
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does /cg/ stretch?
>>
>>203921
Yeah but Fagdust is not obese and he’s not a woman so he doesn’t cry about it
>>
>>203961
Only my bussy
>>
>>203961
I try to, but I also tend to neglect it a lot.
>>
>>203961
Ive found that I am much more flexible after a climbing session. I can do shit with so much less effort. Its a nice thing to cool down with, but mostly I just leave without stretching.
>>
I'm going to start climbing in Yorkshire climbing gyms shirtless because I am a psychopath with 9 percent body fat and I want to make all you vaxxed fat neeks feel bad about your disgusting puffy belly buttons
>>
>>203961
Fucking hate stretchtoil
I do it anyway
>>
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>>204098
>>204098
Umm, excuse me, haven't you read the gym's inclusivity policy?
>>
>>203990
My brother goes to a climbing gym with strict rules. Once one of his friends went to the only other gym in his town during summer and everyone was shirtless, including a girl with her boobs out
>>
>>203711
I had to ask a man to shut up once. I felt like a dick but it was very irritating.
>>
Shawn Raboutou was at my gym today, dude is like 5'2" lmoa
>>
>>204167
the whole family is smol
>>
>>204098
post body, you are 110lbs 5'8 no muscle
>>
>>204167
built for boxy boulder climbing if you know what I mean
>>
>>204167
CUTE
>>
>>204167
5'6"
>>
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does /cg/ power scream while climbing?
>>
>>204221
no and I fucking hate Ondra for screaming like a retard
>>
>>204202
No fucking way dude I swear I saw him and he's shorter than my sister who's 5'4"
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>>204230
euro extreme sports guys all sound so autistic when they scream
>>
>>204221
Why wouldn't you insult everybody and their horse while climbing ? It helps to give you that small push to overcome the crux.
>>
How do Colorado boulderers live with themselves? The front range is piss fucking soft. Everything is a overgraded by at least a grade. Heliumbagged. Once in a blue moon you'll find a problem that is stout, but those are almost all like 50 years old and polished.
>>
>>204278
those are all the dudes talking about climbing v10 on reddit
they would die an instant and gruesome ego death at hueco
>>
>>204281
buncha soft faggots out there, just like in vegas. Hueco seems like it's actually a place where people who aren't pussies go to climb. Arizona is, too, but I can't think of another western US that isn't being ruined by these limp-wristed gym fags.
>>
>>204278
As a newbie climber it amazes me how limited the range of boulders can be in an entire state or country. I watch videos of top climbers talking about how hard it is not only to climb, but even to find V17 boulders.
>>
>>204287
There are like 30000 climbs each in Colorado, Utah, California, and probably like 15k+ in Arizona, New Mexico, Washington and Wyoming. There are more boulder problems and rope routes than someone could climb in 20 lifetimes. No shortage of rock unless you're just unwilling to research, drive, and look around. Even in places without a lot of developed climbing, there's plenty of it for people willing to put in work and put up some climbs.

What top climbers are doing has almost nothing in common with anyone climbing below V12/13. Even at that grade, there are climbs in most states that could occupy someone for a long time. Unless you're climbing V15+, not having projects is not going to happen.
>>
>>204221
Yes but only outdoor. I get self conscious about it at the gym.
>>
>>204326
that is apropriate behaviour
>>
What strength/conditioning exercises help with forearm pump and flaring elbows. There's a crimp move halfway up my boulder project that kills me everytime I try it from the bottom. I pump and loose the ability to crimp hard. In isolation that move never causes problems, but the bottom tires my arms out, cause the feet are bad.
>>
>>204349
Look up 7/3 hangboard protocol.
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>>204349
Maybe try the "easier" holds in the hangboard, with added weight if they are too easy for you. I feel like deeper holds hit the forearm, while the more popular 20 mm hold works the fingers more.

I don't have much experience, but I've seen other climbers saying the same.
>>
>>203034
its a fine beginner/comfy shoe. Similar to many other shoes in the category, such as finales
>>
>>203034
step up from tarantulaces and helix's
>>
>>203034

its what im using right now, and it's pretty comfy. I just started climbing 2 weeks ago tho so not sure if that's enough for you
>>
bros...what's the point of climbing?
>>
>>204463
its a shit sport for ADHD losers
i am slowly transitioning to weight lifting
90 minute squat session then mogging idiots by flashing v7/v8

climbing also has the gayest community of any sport by a long mile, except maybe womens soccer
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>>204463
>>>/out/2728649
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>>204467
A close shave? Spank the monkey?
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>>204471
Spank the Monkey. I can't take any credit though. This is another climber I photographed on my way to the Pioneer Route.
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>>204464
>i am slowly transitioning
I can tell from reading your post
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>>204472
By leaving your home you're doing better than most on this board. I have many fond memories of that area.
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>>204230
holy autism
>>204234
au contraire sperg
what a low T board.
>>
>>204349
this is the result of believing
>exclusively bouldering is better than wasting time on junk-mile routes brah
you should never be pumping out on a boulder proj unless the problem is effectively a route. ignore the two clueless idiots who told you to keep training crimp strength for this particular scenario, your problem is when you try the problem from the start which means you need endurance work in your schedule asap. you could even do endurance work on a spray wall if you really are a ropephobe
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>>204480
It's more likely that the anons problem is not endurance, but that he has garbage technique, doesn't find efficient positions, doesn't use his lower body, and probably overgrips the fuck out of every hold.
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>>204479
>au contraire
dangerously gay
>>
Genuinely think v5 has fallen totally like
Like I feel strong at times

The thing is in all these reddit gyms indoors you aren't invited to get stronger
They are all just weird and reddit

All I want is like a v2 normal jug route with harder holds..I can't be arsed with all this parkour and slopers larger than your mums batty
>>
>>204482
The FUCK did you just say about my technique!? I swear anon, I could crush your pathetic skull into a million tiny pieces with one big toes alone. Thats how hard I stand on foot holds.
>>
First Ascent gyms in Chicago suck in many ways
>constantly filming, act like it's the end of the world if you walk in the frame
>lots e-peen measuring, you need to be someone popular or have a bunch of subscribers or other social media shit to be considered good at climbing
>if you're good without that shit obviously you're a toxic freak who should kill themselves
>fat SJW whales who get upset if anyone remotely good is climbing in the same zone
>white liberal nerds who think they're tougher than any mma fighter while gossiping about half the gym behind their back.
>Staff do the same shit, you need to be someone for them to even greet you when you walk in, asking them for anything is always somehow a major inconvenience
Nothing like a guy insisting I couldn't climb a route because I wasn't on their app, and when I do climb it, I need to post it on their app or I'm actively hurting the community and don't care about climbing. Setting's pretty good I just wish they'd not leave entire walls blank so fucking often
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>>204464
you're right, every time I try to get back into climbing I just end up focusing more on lifting
can't take the 2012 /fit/ and misc out of me brahs
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>>204524
>Setting's pretty good I just wish they'd not leave entire walls blank so fucking often
I hate when the gym I go to sets up for a bouldering comp and dicks around for a week in putting up new routes afterwards
barely anyone can do this new school dyno shit except for comp kids
>>
>>204486
85iq aspie
>>
>>204501
Fucking what?
>>204524
I live in bumfuck nowhere and the staff is the same. People who seek employment at climbing facilities are inherently a bit fucked in the head and are pretty much never "nice".
>>
are you all ready for olympic bouldering kino again
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>>204546
Keen for endless super-zoomed in shots of people brushing holds
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>>202440
Is avoiding dynos and "swingy" moves a good way to prevent finger splits and flaps?
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>>204221
i don't scream but sometimes on hard moves i let out a "pah" sound, it's like a whine letting out air all of a sudden because i was holding my breath pinching really hard or whatever
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>>204551
The olympics crew was better about that than IFSC. The OQS events earlier had good production so i hope it's the same.
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>>204221
>>204221
Yes.
There's the usual blahblah about it helping performance and mental state, but here's why I really scream in the gym
>makes fatties feel bad they can't do the same shit
>triggers SJWtards and their hecking noise sensitivity
>good to cheer on friends and strangers
>annoys tiktokfags because they have to reshoot their clips
>gets people talking gym gets loud if people are yelling cheering, having a good time
>wannabe pros climb somewhere else because I'm totally disrupting their epic mental focus concentration
I highly recommend powerscreaming in the gym anons
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>>204556
No. The best way is to properly warm up your fingers in isolation before doing any hard moves. If you are doing finger intensive climbs, good footwork and an engaged core will help you offload weight from your fingers, which also helps injury prevention.
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>>204606
Oh and avoiding dynos may probably prevent you from fracturing your ankle above all else.
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>>204604
Based. I was anti-powerscreaming but you've converted me.
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newfaggot here
i am very weak and run out of strength after like 20 minutes bouldering, but worse than the lack of strength is the extreme pain around both elbows. only happens when i am actually climbing and a couple of hours after, dies down afterwards
it doesn't *feel* like normal muscle pain, more like shin splints but on my elbows. but it must be the muscles since it's accompanied by weakness and goes away that fast.

anything I can do about it other than keep climbing? accessory workouts to get stronger faster maybe?
>>
Does taping when not climbing help recovery of pulley injuries?
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>>204625
someone told me you should almost not tape at all because it makes your pulley heal in an unnatural position. in any case, patience the first month and increasing intensity VERY slowly for the next few months is probably the safest way
>>
>>204624
Try doing routes if you can ?
This will spread effort over time compared to bouldering.
Otherwise do warm ups and stretching even if it is boring and takes up time you could be climbing.
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>>204627
I thought the consensus was that a pulley-protection splint is highly effective to wear throughout the day and recovery period. So I figured some H taping, as a substitute to a PPS, may be beneficial.
>>
>>204624
Whereabouts in your elbow is the pain?
Google golfer's/climber's elbow and tennis elbow, does it seem like either of them would match what you're experiencing?

In any case, taking your time to warm up and stretch is likely to help.
I would also suggest looking into antagonist muscle training.

>>204625
Should do. Your pulleys see a fair amount of use just going about daily life and that's going to impede the healing process even if not as significantly as climbing.

>>204627
>someone told me you should almost not tape at all because it makes your pulley heal in an unnatural position
Someone is an idiot. The point of H-taping is to restore the natural position of the flexor tendon (or, more accurately, to off-load the forces that pull the flexor tendon out of it's natural position). Once a pulley is stretched or torn then the flexor tendon is able to bow-string away from the bone - this is the "unnatural position" one should be concerned about - and if the tendon is allowed to heal in this position then it increases the risk of recurrent or even chronic injuries.
>>
I flashed 2 V3s on my third time climbing. Did I do good?
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>>204652
everyone starts at a different level. that's pretty good. keep it up anon.
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>>204652
Your gym is probably just really soft. They make the first few v grades really easy in the gym to attract clientele and make them feel like they’re progressing fast, but then it doesn’t match up at all to outdoor grades.


Usually V0-V5/6 is very easy in the gym
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>>204606
He’s talking about skin injuries not tendon injuries you retard. Warming up has nothing to do with skin.
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>>204665
V4+ was hell for beginners in the gyms I've been to. They start using crimps and slopes, which beginners can't do even if they are fit.
>>
>>204665

The grades in my local gym go something like this:

2-3, ladders and holds close together for little kids, only jugs

3-4, still ladders. Mostly jugs, good slopers on slabs that you could do without hands.

4-5, holds become way more varied. No pinches yet, but crimp-esque holds appear.

5-6A, crimps more regular feature. Feet sometimes slopey. First pockets appear. Heel hooks start appearing.

6A-6B, This is about the level where all the variety of holds and positions is present, including some campus moves, toe hooks and feet first climbing.
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>>204719
>>204673
Really? My gym starts through out varied holds from early on, it's just a matter of what degree of overhang their on and the overall difficulty of the problem.
They're only colour-graded so I don't know shit about V-whatever but we'd have pockets and slopers from level 2 (of 8), pinches, crimps and heel hooks from level 3 and every variety of hold or move including extended campus sections and bat-hangs by level 4. It's just that if they're building a beginner climb with a lot of pockets then you have good feet so you aren't overloading your fingers, if they're doing an beginner climb with a lot of pinches or small pinches on an overhang then there will be a nice arrete for you to heel/toe hook and get some weight of your arms
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>>204721
My current gym is actually color graded too, but I said V4+ becouse I asked one of the setters for estimatives on the grades.

Now I remember we also have one slope set as "level 2", but it should be 3 I think. And we have some easy overhangs.
>>
How do ya'll feel about ice climbing / alpining? I want to do it after I get a stable job and more climbing experience.
>>
who is /cg/'s girl?
>>
>>204750
Melissa Utomo
>>
>>204745
I think it's just too much work. I'm not that into hiking up mountains or being super cold. I've tried a guided trip and it was more of a type 2 fun.

I get my kicks on moderate multi-pitch routes in nice weather.
>>
Hey anons, question here - Why does climbing have such a huge injury culture? Moreso than any other sport I've been in. Everybody complains about having some minor pain somewhere in their body all the time. And the solution? - To stop climbing. Never have I been in a sport where retardation is so beautifully mixed with bad advice. And I come from a weightlifting background, where people fucking tore pecs off and still hit new PRs eventually. Yet in climbing, the smallest tweak is enough to make your degenerate lanky friend push up his glasses with a smirk and say, "Welp anon, guess you have to take 3 weeks off now." Is there a reason for this in climbing?
>>
>>204783
idk i met a climber is his 40s with a permanently dislocated rib, bro could pop it out on command
i think climbing is very injury prone sport, and there is not really "good form" like weightlifting/powerlifting to counter it
many commerical gyms and outdoors will require individuals to pop themselves in a position where injury is extremely likely, and that is part of the "difficulty"
climbing also tends to be a maximal effort exercise, lots of training routines prescribe maximal training every session. max weight hangs 3x a week.
in weightlifting/powerlifting that is a once a week/ once a month type effort of threshold pushing
>>
>>204785
>i think climbing is very injury prone sport
I think that idea has permeated climbing and it's just not true.
>There's no "good form" like in X
You will never have perfect form while executing max effort in most sports, and that shouldn't be the driver of it. When I started this thread it was because I noticed how even things like bicep tweaks or elbow pains were enough to convince the Onions wojaks with receding hairlines in their late 20's with glasses that they need to take a monthlong break. Here's the problem I see: First, a minor pain presents itself, Second - everyone around that person tells them its more serious than it actually is, Third - They insist that the cure for it is to simply stop aggrevating it. The second and third observations are what I don't understand about climbing. First of all, if you've ever played soccer or tennis, you know the dude with chronic pain. They still play and perform well regardless. Only in the rarest circumstances would you tell that guy to take a break longer than a week. In climbing, the smallest and I truly mean the SMALLEST thing has the fruity low test male telling you to take a 2+ week break minimum. Also, coming from a background of injury prevention and rehab, it's clear that loading the tissue is the real cure for 99% of all minor tweaks, this is especially the case with tendons, which is what the climbing community doesn't understand. In benching, whenever you have a guy with shoulder pain, you don't tell him to stop benching, you tell him to bench at a lighter weight and do some shoulder strengthening shit, he's usually back to 100% in a week.
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>>204785

In climbing, if your wittle fingwerr huwtss, then the asian 5'2 beta-male will go, "Guess it's time for you to take off for a month" and they seem almost gleeful to tell you that. Like they get a reward for being so snobbish and "educating you" for the millionth time about finger anatomy. When I tweak a finger, all I do is some rehab and avoid climbs that aggravate it. I literally did the dumbest thing - attempting a max hang while already pumped. Tweaked my middle finger for 4 weeks, but did I stop climbing? Fuck no. I just avoided crimping on that hand, and after getting home did some stretches to get the blood flowing. CLimbing performance never dipped and OMG I was back to 100% in weeks. Didn't tell my friends about it because I KNOW they would have just told me to stop climbing for 2 months and pray that it'd stop hurting. I know that's not how injuries heal. This is why I don't trust climbers' advice like I would weightlifting/soccer players' advice. Those sports have existed for so long that everyone knows how to rehab shit, and it seems like only the minority rock climbers are figuring it out.
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>>204789
Oh and one last thing
>Climbers feel gleeful to tell you about your injury
That's another thing I don't get. Climbing is the only sport where I've learned about anatomy. Finger flexors, tendons, pulleys, etc. It's such bullshit. Only in climbing do people have to act all pretentious and drop fucking anatomy on you everytime you get hurt. It's so much worse than the science base lifters telling you what muscle you strained, because every video about climbing injuries will inevitably try and give you a medical school lecture about this shit. I don't know... it's just the climbing culture seems to have it's head up its ass when it comes to this stuff.
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>>204790
idk bro sounds like youre just upset at basedboys

all the weightlifters i know have a pretty good grasp of anatomy and they are world champs and olympic contenders. understanding back/shoulder/ and forearm anatomy help build mind/muscle connection
understanding hand anatomy allows mitigation of injury and what you can do to rehab it
how do you tape a lumbrical tear vs collateral ligaments? when u take 3 finger pockets are you taking front 3, or pinky 3?

taking time off is not a good solution for most injuries, but neither is just climbing like it never happened. i will agree with u that basedboy videos of some fatass telling you how to heel-hook are fucking gay though, and i assume thats the kind of advice you're angry about
>>
>>204794
>Uses tape
I'm sorry sir, I'm not following. I've never heard of based boys in my life. I think Hooper's Beta is a huge faggot and I want to personally strangle him until he taps out and calls me Uncle-chan, or whatever japanese beta shit he'd probably spit out while his husband watches.
>neither is just climbing like it never happened. i
We both agree that keeping up physical activity is important. I'm pissed about hooper and his husband telling everyone not to climb based on the smallest shit..
>>
Jesus that's a lot of text. If you injure your finger you should rehab with progressive loading. This is the first result on google and it tells you that: https://theclimbingdoctor.com/how-to-rehab-a-climbing-pulley-injury/. The people at your gym are idiots I guess.
>>
The gym I go to just removed about 2/3 of the spray wall to make room for a kilter board.
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>>204801
That sucks. Now, for a moonboard it'd be worth it
>tfw new gumby
>>
old 200lb fat regular who barely climbs v5 humilated the v10 zoomies today
>normal day at the gym
>v10 zoomies filming their climbs
>get mad at a new guy walking through their shot
>fat guy chips in, tells them if they must suck if they need to film so much
>lots of namecalling about him being a fatty, can't climb, bigass, retard etc.
>fatty regular says he knows he's all that, but their moms sure don't care in the bedroom
>conversation goes to lots of shutups, leaves us alone, no one cares fatty, generic namecalling
>fatty says "you're like those freshmen football players who think they're going to the NFL"
>zoomies realize they're not winning, go back to basic faggot, idiot, piggy names
>fat guy is laughing, just calls them football rejects repeatedly to get them mad
>it's working, zoomies are yelling and red-faced
>staff and other gymgoers intervene at this point
>zoomies are mad and storming around the gym, trying to climb all the hardest shit they can and making a show
>fat guy goes back to his v4 project with a huge grin on his face, waves at the zoomie boys when they leave
holy shit
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>>204816
meanwhile in Korea...
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>>204816
are you the 200lb fat regular anon? you can tell us
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>>204820
Yes. Don't think you can ever really win against teenagers, but the constant comments about how they don't care told me I was annoying them at least
>>
>>204788

This makes sense to me, so it's real to me and I won't listen to anyone else.
>>
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>>204795
Who claims to stop.climbing for 2 months because of a pulley injury. Pic rel, and progressive strengthening is the large consensus on how to overcome pulleys where im from. Ive not watched a lot of hoopers beta but from what I remember he also acknowledges that the importance of progressive loading, for example in regards to wrist injuries.
>>
>>204801
Atleast you still have access to 1/3....
>>
I've been climbing for about 5 months twice a week and im currently at the v3-v4 range and was wondering if i could get a shoe recommendation.
Just went to my local REI and honestly the best fitting shoe was the scarpa vapor v in size 43, but obviously that's on the high end on price and im wondering if getting something like that now will be a waste. The second best fitting one was the scarpa origin, which seems like a decent beginner shoe. However my problem with that one is that i wonder it would even be that much better than the free rentals i use (butora habaras) and if i should even bother buying it. With that being said i was wondering if i could get some intermediate climbing shoe recommendations in the sub $150 range, or if i should just say fuck it and go for the vapor Vs.
>>
>>204843
Ive never owned Scarpas. But the Veloce looks like a good compromise to the Vapors. Its also soft and will be good for everything indoors. Its not as agressive but I tried it on in store and it fits much bigger then the Vapors in the same size I tried on. Because its soft you could get away with sizing a full size up to what the vapors were you tried, my guess. Ideally you can find them instore somewhere.
A lot of experienced climbers also use the veloce as a comfortable training/ beater shoe. Its certainly better than rentals and seems to be intended for climbers like you. Also not so pricy. If you climb outdoors something like the vapors (in terms of.stiffness) may actually be more versatile and long lasting though. A downside to soft shoes is they may not last as long (especially indoors) and they aren't so stable on vertical routes. But you can always resole if you do it early enough.
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>>204845
*size a full size DOWN with the Veloce. For reference, i have a 42-42.5 street shoe. Based off of trying scarpas on in-stores I would get the veloce in 40 and an Instinct (bit stiffer, more agressive) in 40.5 for normal everyday training. But If you dont boulder, maybe consider something stiffer, like a vapor or instinct (there's other brands with equivalent shoes).
>>
I've been climbing for 10 years and I've never spent more than $70 on a pair of shoes. I usually scavenge from the rei used section or buy cheap shit online.

If you're still new and improving, why not train with cheap shoes? You can still make beginner gains without much effort and without spending any money. That said, rental shoes absolutely suck and anything you buy will be an improvement.
>>
>>204851
Final thought. Go for the shoe that fits you well. Ultimately you will outgrow beginner shoes in no time if you climb twice per week and know you will do so in the future. No point making a compromise. If you resole your shoes early (before its too late) the investment it well worth it already. There's also a vapor V, meant for different use cases and less stiff I think (not as soft as veloce) and cheaper too. So they might also be worth considering if the S fit you well.
>>
https://climbinggearreviews.com/2023/06/04/scarpa-vapour-s-review-2023/
>nvm the S is softer then the V. Ok. Im done.
>>
>>204853
I was considering those as well, and i appreciate the insight

>>204852
Yeah thats what i was considering as well. The only reason why I'm thinking about personal shoes is because some of my climbing friends and setters were advising me to get my own shoes since im pretty consistent at the moment.
>>
>>204852
What this guy says, I can hit v8, and regularly climb in rentals. Find shoes you like having on your foot, and learn to improve your form instead of going "I NEED THE SPORTIVA SCARPA DRAGO SOLUTIONS BECAUSE THIS BEGINNER RUBBER IS HOLDING ME BACK REEEEE"
Here's honestly how it goes
>v1-3: Beginner shoe, under $80, works well on your foot
>v1-6: Up your budget a bit, but if you buy dragos for a a fucking indoor v6 imma laugh
>v7+: wear whatever you want, but funny story, 99% of people in 200$+ shoes never hit this fucking point
>>
>>204472
how hot was it out there?
>>
>>204750

Ai Mori
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>>204863
These are old photos from mid-October 2022. The weather was pretty much perfect for that trip.
>>
>>204745
i hate the idea of paying for a guide and doing things with people who know better than me. i started exploring near my city once i got a car, then got into trekking, then progressively into mountaneering and climbing all by myself, suffering and learning and having tons of fun and excitement. i've been getting into doing things with snow but it's harder, you need gear and snow is hard when you've never seen it before but this next winter i will try to do some alpinism by myself. then for ice climbing i guess i will have to suck it up and hire a guide, and maybe for some route with big glacier
>>
>>204750
Jain Kim. She's so beautiful bros...
>>
Took what you guys said and ended up just ordering the old model scarpa force Vs for $110 after everything. Didn't see anything about the last used but the new model forces use the same one as the origins i tried so they should fit well. I'll probably look into the veloces or vapors once i wear these ones out, but i figured i should just stick to the cheaper side of things since i think id feel retarded working on v4 problems with high end shoes on.
>>
>>204891
>I need to worry about lasts
>I need to worry about my shoe development path
>I need to find some reason shape or form to say these shoes are inferior
Just put them on and start climbing for fuck's sake
>>
>>202440
>>>/sp/142940250
>>
>>204921
No shit retard. I'm just trying to give some type of conversational points to promote dialogue on a slow thread on a slow board.
>>
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>>202440
Begginer here

How long does it usually take for people to start hating slopey holds?
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>>204993
I meant STOP hating
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>>204750
Rabbit and it isn't close
>>204993
>>204994
when you get your first injury from a crimp. just work on your open-handed grip and you'll realize most slopers are fantastic. oh, and you really want a fresh application of (pure magnesium carbonate) chalk every time.
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>>205002
>when you get your first injury from a crimp
That's grim but thanks for the tip. Maybe if I chalk more I will be able to finish my project (3 small crimps followed by a dyno into a slope).
>>
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>>204993
I think most climbers eventually realize that they need to start training their weaknesses and that's when they start enjoying slopers. It's also important to recognize that they aren't just some contrived obstacle put on the wall because setters hate fun. Slopers are ubiquitous on outdoor boulder problems and you will need to be comfortable with them to climb those problems.

>>205002
You should add that body position is extremely important for slopers. Gotta keep that center of gravity close to the wall. Also

>Rabbit and it isn't close
Oriane Bertone anon would disagree, wherever he is
>>
>>205007
>>205002
Just to make sure: do you legit start liking slopes when you learn how to deal with them, or you just don't mind them? If the answer is yes that will increase my motivation 100%
>>
>>202473
I hate when they do close-ups of a finger or limb and when they pan out, the climber moved all three of his other limbs and you totally miss what beta they used for a crux sequence.
>>
>>205008
They're just like any other hold once you learn how to use them
What you're going to hate is all the fat queers that see climbing as a social activity and imagine themselves as ideological commissars making sure the gym is pro-lgbt
>>
All climbing videos should be uncut. Just like the penis.
>>
>>205021
Or, you might be a normal person and just ignore them. Not you, specifically, since you are for some reason utterly obsessed with how other people behave and can't stop bitching about it. But in general.
>>
>>205036
Its really the creepy grooming that you fags simply cannot refrain from that bothers me. I don't care if you chop your cock off, just try to stay away from children
>>
>>202555
just freesolo a 5.3 or 5.4 route and start from there
>>
>>202555
Its really hard to find partners if you're not white or east asian because why would anyone want to climb with somebody who's not white or east asian?
>>
>>205038
I'm just glad that there's a climbing general thread that you can use to share your very important feelings
>>
>>205042
I mean, you did willingly come on 4chan. What did you expect? Reddit?
>>
>>205036
I've run into that shit too
>Trying to police others' speech
>people climbing is offensive to them because it's "applying pressure"
>stupid designated climb nights where they clog up the walls while people are clearly waiting
I like how asking them about trump living makes them bluescreen it's funny as hell
>>
>>205047
Queer nights are fucking stupid. I don't care if some fag is climbing but they always feel the need to advertise that they love poopy butt sex. Why not just keep the cruising for the gay bar? I'm a nazi but you don't see me wearing my swastika shirt while climbing
>>
I still have yet to see any of the shit you people are always crying about at any of the gyms in my city.
>>
>>205050
You've never seen a slope?
>>
>>205050
Central Europe is safe from that shit too as long as you stay out of the "big" cities.
>>
>>205042
Nah, dude's right. Any opportunity to let fags know they're unwelcome.
>>
>>205050
i'm in jew york and it's in every climbing gym
>>
>>205061
seems to be an US problem, not a climbing problem
>>
>>205054
>never seen a slope
Anon is probably Dutch.
>>
>>205050
Me neither, and I think it might just be another case of rage-baiting.
>>
>>205067
>>205064
>>205061
Nah, it's in Australia too. If there's anything we'll fall over ourselves to ape America in, it's performative SJW faggotry.
>>
>>205054
Are you referring to asians or the holds?
>>
>>205064
normal commercial gyms don't have fag flags lining the entrance to the building, only climbing gyms do this shit. Even Equinox gyms which are literally just gay cruising spots don't do that, probably because it's just tacky and the rich business gays don't vibe with that tumblr dyke nonsense
>>
>>205008
i've grown to like them. crimps always feel taxing on my fingers, but slopers are comfy
also they make newbies struggle, so when you learn to use them, it is a minor milestone of your progress (or you just get a Stockholm syndrome, heh)
>>
What does it mean when a bouldering problem is labeled track (ex: v4 track). Tried looking it up but couldn't find anything.
>>
>>205113
Yeah they let you feel smart when you can body position them into being comfy and secure, which is a nice feeling.

>>205132
Probably specific to your gym.
>>
>>205113
Until you run out of juice and start to feel your wrist is gonna snap when pulling on a bad sloper which feels way worse than fingers giving out on crimps
>>
>>205002

Rabbit who?? newfag here
>>
>>205157
make an educated guess
>>
Newfag here. I hit a couple of V5's and am realizing that getting to V6 will be more of a matter of technique than pure strength. How can I technique-max? People say just do easier climbs and focus on bodyweight but,... truthfully I do this for 10 minutes and don't feel a damn difference. What's worked for me is trying to repeat projects faster, with better form. Any other ways I can technique max?
>tfw you don't trust the gay YouTubers with effeminate voices to learn technique from
I love Louis, but there's no god damn way I'm going to do the hover-hands shit he recommends because that can't possibly fucking work (can it??).

Hoping to learn from oldfags here today.
>>
>>205163
anything that includes doing the boulder with intent on focusing on what your doing and shit load of repetition will work. Like you mentioned Louis I think any drill he recommends tries to do this while eliminating some variables or adding more variables to your climbing which makes you think about how you climb. The reason why you didn't feel the difference from doing this for 10 minutes is because you're not supposed to. You are trying to engrain some pattern into your behavior so that when you actually can't think about it while doing flash attempts or redpointing you do them automatically. If you are autistic enough to do this process without any drills on any climb godspeed and the shit load of repetition is not escapable
>>
>>205169
What better way to learn than by repeating a project? Lifting a 5lb weight a billion times won't bring you closer to lifting a 200lb weight. Likewise, doing a bunch of drills on shit I can flash probably won't help me more than repeating hard projects over and over again, working on slight improvements.

I don't like the idea that I have to fuck around with V3s and waste my precious time.
>>
>>205176
If you are learning to play the guitar (another technical skill), you don't just play a song once and then move on to the next one. You play it over and over until all the nuances become muscle memory. The idea is to offload as much technique as possible into your subconscious mind so that your conscious mind can focus on improvement and self-analysis.

I am no expert though. This is what works for me.
>>
>>205176
Have you ever seen Olympic weightlifters training? They literally repeat 2 movements and break them down into smallest pieces and repeat them over and over again with fraction of their working weight for like 50% of the training.
You can try to repeat projects but if it’s a real project it’s not sustainable to repeat it even once every session it’s like doing your pr bench press every time you train your chest and if you did lift weights you must know that even those basic movement patterns break under your maximum effort
>>
>>205188
thats not really true
climbers have very good near maximal effort volume compared to athletes of other sports
a climber will be able to "max effort" much much longer than a power athlete like oly weightlifting or powerlifters will be able to
>>
>>205191
Yes you and every climber is a special snowflake. Can’t wait for the obvious examples of people after months of trying one project repeating it on the next day
>>
>>203276
that looks like a total choss pile
>>
>>205050
>>205061
>>205064
>>205097
>>205049
>>205047

Today for the first time I witnessed this phenomenon of the gym being full of QUEERS. They were pretty chill tho, I even showed them the beta for a boulder. There was a WOMAN with them and she wrote "this belongs to a dyke" in her chalk bag. I'm not from USA.
>>
>>205192
i think you are probably retarded
>>
>>203275
my buddy bought some, it's about on par with other fine grades of chalk. I use block stuff which I crush up into a chunky powder and it doesn't work that well, but the magdust isn't really much different from typical dusty stuff you'll get elsewhere



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