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~~Rappelling Edition~~

>Where do I start?
People typically start in the gym and branch off outdoors and find their niche, be it bouldering, trad, sport or a mixture of the above. Some never leave the gym at all. Ultimately it doesn't matter - just get started and enjoy yourself.

>How fit do I have to be to start? Do I have to be able to do x amount of pull-ups?
Being light, strong and flexible helps at the higher levels but climbing is open to almost anyone and is fairly intuitive to most. Even if your body is feeble and weak now, you will develop strength over time by virtue of just climbing. Climbing is a holistic sport and success often hinges upon many factors, not just strength and power, but having these qualities definitely helps when you breach into the higher grades.

>What shoes do I buy?
If you're starting out in the gym, don't worry too much: get some snug shoes without dead space that don't cause you lasting pain. Some people (such as the famed shoe designer Heinz Mariacher) recommend wearing soft shoes when you're starting out -- this makes sense since your footwork will probably suck and the increased feedback will pay dividends over time. You really don't need fancy expensive shoes when you're starting out, but certain shoe properties help send harder problems (e.g. stiff shoes for standing on tiny granite edges or soft shoes for sandstone/gritstone smears).

Here are some useful resources for sizing:
>https://sizesquirrel.com/
>https://rockrun.com/blogs/the-flash-rock-run-blog/rock-climbing-shoe-sizing-guide

Old thread:
>>202440
>>
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miho bros...
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>>207450
Stop posting successful athletes. I'm trying to cope.
>>
really hoping the climbers at olympics go to font later since its so close, would be sick to see
>>
>>207434
>after 12 years of climbing and who knows how many years of being a youtuber climber has only sent a V6 inside a gym
Kek Hanna Gumby Morris truly sucks
>>
>>207454
They get along so well that it’d be great to see them mucking about together! They could hold a dyno masterclass for Ai on Rainbow Rocket.
>>
Why do IPF retards act like they're the only powerlifters?

>"Gavin Adin reclaims the 93kg squat world record with 341kg"
>go to openpowerlifting
>choose raw 90kg men
>filter by squat
>there's at least 6 more people squatting more than that

Why do they call it squat world record when it is just the IPF record?
>this is a climbing thread
But talking about weightlifting is super important guys, it makes you stronger, more resilient, more explosive, any REAL climber needs to be dedicating part of their climbing regimen to powerlifting otherwise you're losing potential gains. Pro climbers say they don't lift weights? Fuck them, they don't know as much as me, a random 4chan anon with a staggering 20kg benchpress. There is only one correct answer to improving climbing and that's lifting weights.

Also why the fuck did OP post a picture of some dude outside on some rock? He needs to be inside lifting weights like a REAL climber
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>>207464
Holy shit nice rappelling shot. Where at?
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>>207468
NTA but that's smith rock in Oregon. Which formation, I can't be sure, but it looks like the monkey-face tower
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>>207468
>>207475
You are correct. It's Monkey Face at Smith

Here's another, somewhat less impressive, from City of Rocks... I believe the route is Scream Cheese. I was with a new partner (pictured here) and he for some reason fixed the rope before rappelling so I had to climb back up and retrieve it.
>>
Wtf is electric
>>
>>207495
Reddit meme shit
>>
>>207495
short people filter
>>
>>207495
>>207495
A combination of physical and coordination, often requiring you to explode out of a static position but with simpler coordination moves than the coordination boulder which will often string together sequences of dynamic moves.

In my opinion it's bullshit and makes comp climbing shitter than it needs to be. First of all, I dislike the coordination/parkour shit so having two coordination boulders (one pure coordination and one physical coordination) annoys me. Second, having 4 boulder styles they have to include when comps only include 4 boulders is unnecessarily limiting to route setters; the slab is always going to be the technical boulder (rather than giving them the freedom to do something different by having a technical slab and a technical boulder on an overhang), we'll never see two different power boulders testing different aspects of power, etc.
>>
>>207501
>A combination of physical and coordination, often requiring you to explode out of a static position but with simpler coordination moves than the coordination boulder
Ohhhh. Thanks. I wasn't familiar with that term and was confused when Klingler used it during commentary. I want to say there have been some World Cup rounds -semis or finals- that didn't include a slab. It's not always the same. I get the point though.
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>heard you talking smack about dyel climbing asians chuddies
>now do this v11
>>
My [spoiler]tarantulaces[/spoiler] just had their toes start to split and need replacements. Whats a good soft replacement, i'm bad and need to smear constantly.
>>
>>207521
tarantulaces
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I made a webm
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>>207527
Yep. Although this isn't the one I thought was just directly and deliberately meant to fuck her over. This one in your webm she can reach and does. It's right on the edge but it's possible. That W1 in the semis, however...

While on the topic, youtube recommended a climb of Mori's in my feed today I hadn't seen before. This was before she took the better part of two years off. Shorts and sports bra back then. I'm linking this to show that Mori isn't exactly the tiny skinny creature her baggy climbing pants/shirt sort of imply. She's also more muscular now than she was in this 2019 comp
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ILHsqZ8SU9U
>>
Hello, anons.
Hope I'm in the right thread to ask few questions.
I got interested in climbing recently, yes Olympics inspired me :)
I'd like to start with bouldering since that's easiest and generally recommended to start with, but also because bouldering is the only type of climbing that gym in my city provides.
I'm of fairly short height. I'm few centimeters shorter than Janja. Will I have trouble in climbing routes?
Also since I'm short, my foot size is also small. My general footwear size is EU38. Depending on the brand or the shoe
I may have to opt in for a size larger or size smaller. What size of climbing shoes should I get?
Thanks.
>>
>>207535
Nope. Plenty of female and male climbers are short. You being short won’t hurt you. But as you saw with Ai, you need to develop dynamic explosiveness with your legs as gyms are catering more toward the parkour/dyno bouldering since people want to compete in the IFSC and eventually olympics. I think also with Ai and her inability to dyno, I think can be rooted in fear since you are much shorter. I am 6’2 and sometimes I wish I was shorter as my gym’s routesetters really enjoy setting boulders that require high feet and low hands. Good luck and have fun. Enjoy climbing and eventually try going outside if you can, you’ll love it even more.
With shoes, your first pair should be cheap and super comfortable (snug shoe size). Once you learn technique so you’re not destroying rubber on $200+ shoes, then you get more performance oriented shoes. Once you get into performance, people will be telling you to size down
>>
>>207536
Thanks for taking the time to respond.

>develop dynamic explosiveness with your legs
I'm still new to the lyngo. By dynamic you mean more jumping around and carrying momentum from position to position?

>With shoes, your first pair should be cheap and super comfortable (snug shoe size).
Yeah, I didn't plan on getting the most expensive and best shoes. Just some cheap starting ones.
Shoe size is my main concern and I don't really like idea renting shoes at the gym. I'm very particular about that thing. You never know how good other people take care of their feet.
So same shoe size I wear everyday would be fine for climbing shoes? Most stores I checked have EU38 as the smallest size though.
>>
>>207539
>So same shoe size I wear everyday would be fine for climbing shoes?
No, its impossible to guess shoe size based on your street wear and honestly that suggestion is dated and irrelevant, go to a climbing store or your gym which likely sells shoes and try a bunch, usually female/low volume climbing shoes go much smaller than EU38 but there isnt really any actual difference between female and male climbing shoes, just that they might be narrower which might fit your foot better anyways (some have different rubber but it doesn't really matter for you).
Size them until they are tight but not painful, you need to stand on edges to really get a feel of them, do not buy them if they scrape your achilles tendon it will get way more painful when you start climbing with them.

Yeah just start at the gym but consider going climbing outdoors eventually, its 10x more fun.
>>
>>207541
>No, its impossible to guess shoe size based on your street wear [...]
Got it, thanks for recommendation. There's a shop in my city, I'll try to visit it and see what's what.

>Yeah just start at the gym but consider going climbing outdoors eventually, its 10x more fun.
I really would like to. Sadly my country isn't particularly hilly or mountainous and climbing sport isn't particularly popular and well funded.
My plan is to try out bouldering and eventually if I find it fun and fulfilling then try to do top rope climbing (unfortunately I'd have to go to other city's gym to do that, which is about 2h travel), and then lead climbing if I feel brave enough.
Really I just want to find fun, exciting and fulfilling sport activity to do and Olympics inspired me to try out climbing :)
>>
>>207541
>that suggestion is dated and irrelevant
Irrelevant is being misused in this context, you brainlet. Kek. It is far from dated. Scarpa Helix is true to my shoe size. Usually beginner shoes without a downward toe are true to size. Just because you’re a gumby who bought $200 la sportivas to do v2 does not mean there are no true to size shoe. And you can still downsize from true to size, you utter mongoloid
>>
>>207543
oh so the suggestion is relevant because one shoe out of 3000 is true to size, for your foot exclusively.
It's not true to size, you just got lucky.
>>
>>207535
You are correct that bouldering is the way to go. Bouldering gyms are usually pretty beginner friendly and there is something for everyone. Doing worry yet about explosiveness or whatever--you'll have plenty of things to learn before that ever becomes relevant. The best way to improve as a beginner is to just climb a lot. Your height will be an obvious disadvantage on some routes, especially the easy ones, but it's not something that should discourage you. Eventually as you get into steeper boulder problems it will become an advantage.

Like the other anon suggested, definitely try on shoes before buying. Also wearing socks with climbing shoes is fine, especially if you have sweaty feet.
>>
>>207521
I really like the Scarpa Veloce.
La Sportiva Skwama are based but probably 'too high level' to go from Tarantulaces.
>>
>>207535
Great Olympics inspired you to start climbing yourself, bouldering is a great start especially if it's the only kind of climbing available nearby.
>I'm of fairly short height
Being short is no problem, most climbers are on the shorter side.
>My general footwear size is EU38
That's fine, you'll easily get shoes your size but that depends a lot on the brand.
Afaik Evolv is same size or even 1 up.
Scarpa is like 1 size down and La Sportiva around 2 sizes. Best is to try shoes if you have a retailer nearby. Alternatively order 4-5 sizes online, keep the fitting one and return the others (e.g. size 36, 36 1/2, 37, 37 1/2, 38).
Also start with "beginner" shoes like La Sportiva Tarantula/Tarantulaces, Scarpa Origin, Evolv Defy or whatever else is marketed as a comfy beginner shoe
>>
>>207527
there's no fucking reason they couldn't just lower every hold 5cm, it would be literally the same boulder but every climber would have the same ease getting to the starting position no matter how tall they are

it's infuriating to me, i just don't see how this is not giving a handicap to some climbers for no reason at all. why do they keep doing this, why is everyone fine with it
>>
>>207582
yes lets optimize every boulder for the shortest climber no bias here
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>>207582
>why do they keep doing this, why is everyone fine with it
They aren't. There is heated debate behind the scenes about it. This has been going on for two years.
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>about to flash a v7
>friend tells a funny joke
>swallow my zyn
>literally choke and wiff the final move

Got Ai-Mori'd
>>
>>207587
taller individuals often have proportionally longer arm
>>
>>207598
pretty cringe desu
>>
>>207618

I tried bro, maybe tomorrow ill send it.
>>
>>207618
shut the fuck up you retarded fucking nigger
You're probably one of those weightlifting faggots who got laughed out of /fit/
>>
>>207627
the climbing was good and I hope more people post themselves climbing. but that post was not funny imo.

>>207622
ganbatte
>>
>>207637
I'm going to find your gym and beta spray you in the ass until you moan yamate
>>
>>207598
Noice, you'll easily send it next time! How many degrees is the overhang?
And which shoes are you using, they look comfy
>>
>>207587
That’s not what he said.
>>
>>207598
Looking good, my well-tanned friend.
>>
>>207598
It was a dab anyway. I've seen your foot on that orange nigger

[spoiler]Good effort though, you'll get it next time[/spoiler]
>>
>climbing shoes are worn down to the point where I can see my socks
>Still couldn't clear the V8 hurdle
>feel like I don't deserve new shoes because of it
>Go back to using my 4 year old super soft beginner shoes
>can barely stand on chips with them
>footwork improves massively within weeks
>flash my V8 project a few sessions in
Fuck shoefags. I've decided: My next shoes won't be some fucked up performance kind. If the setter can do that boulder with his goddamn sneaker I too should be able to do so. Just need to be better.
>>
>>207649
>some fucked up performance kind
Like Theory, Solution Comp or Drago?
>>
>>207649
>Shoes are damaged
>Uses undamaged shoes to improve
>It's almost like you need shoes in working condition to climb
What's your point?

Guys, I tried using technique today. It fucking works. I actually got up the crimpy route by not wasting time hanging at the hard sections and just getting my ass moving. Then I moonboarded after and holy fuck, I can do it by focusing on full body tension. Before I struggle to do moves on a V3, now I'm sequencing moves on a V4. Life's good bros.
>The reason I couldn't moonboard weeks ago also had something to do with my grip strength not being back after an extended 10 week break. After 3 weeks of climbing, I went from struggling on V3s to flashing V4s and projecting V5's and 6's
Grip strength comes back rly fast bros.
>>
>>207656
>v4let doesn't understand shit but tries to act smug
What a faggot
>>
>>207666
V4 on moonboard you fucking retard. You act like you've discovered some innovative technique to improve footwork. You're just using shoes properly dumbass, I'm surprised it took your grown ass years to figure out how to do that.
>>
>>207667
>moonboard
ahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha
I'm not even the shoe guy, you fucking retard
>>
>>207656
>It's almost like you need shoes in working condition to climb
You don't. Do not support Big Rubber. You think monkeys need to pay 200 dollar for foot rubber to climb trees?
>>
>>207672
Rubber doesn't help on trees though. Rock climbing monkeys all wear Scarpa.
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>>207672
Who owns Big Rubber?
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I vow to board climb once a week, route climb once a week, then boulder once a week.
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If you are starting and don't want to spend money on shoes these are good. They have very tacky soles (they smear better than my climbing shoes) and some rubber around the toe area that can be used. Climbed to 5.11a in them in gyms before getting climbing shoes. Obviously anything that involves small chips for feet is hard, but other things are easy.
>>
>>207666
>>207671
post climb tough guy
>>
>>207716
looks good. I would buy these if I didn't already have approach shoes.
>>
>>207590
has there been any official complain or statement from a coach or somebody in the scene that i can look at? it's an interesting problem
>>
>>207720
what difficulty you want
>>
>>207732
Some of the harder stuff you're doing, no matter if that's V4, V10 or V15
I'm none of the anons above but I like watching people doing climbs that are hard for them, no matter the grade.
But I still suck, can't provide more than V6/V7 (climbing between 6C+ and 7A+ depending on the style of boulder)
>>
>>207734
we're about the same then lol I'll post my v6 struggles
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You onions faggot, I know you browse here. Show yourself
>>
>>207736
>climbs v6 but tries to act tough
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA this fucking retard was shitting on that one anon for moonboarding when you faggots climb the same shit. Jesus fucking christ this is why I hate modern climbers who dick-measure based on their fucking baby grades. Both of you should kill yourselves.
>>
bros matilda souderlund is so beautiful
>>
>>207736
>I'll post my v6 struggles
Based, please do!
>>
>>207656
No retard. What I mean is that you don't need high performance shoes with a massive downturn and stiff soles to carry you through shitty chips.

You can instead use cheap soft shoes to improve your foot game and tension and not rely on the shoes to do it for you.
Now go back to your v4 faggot
>>
>>207716
I used those as my daily shoes for a long time. They weigh nothing and have great grip. Cheap also with 25 bucks. The sole gets rubbed off very quickly though
>>
>>207748
You can't really expect to get better in a linear way or am I misunderstanding that image?
Plateaus will happen and you can't avoid them, only shorten the plateau or am I wrong?

And no I won't watch videos with fucking soiface clickbait thumbnails
>>
hey yall, started rock climbing recently. how long does the effects of stretching last? asking bc i have my workout in the morning, then i climb in the afternoon. Should I stretch again before i climb?
>>
>>207748
Wonder how hard he climbs. Suppose he must be pretty good.
>>
>>207774
v11 boulder, 8a sport
>>
>>207774
Highest grade has climbed is V8. Dyel catalyst claims to be a V10 climber but he exclusively climbs indoors, so he is a V8 as well
>>
>>207773
light stretching as warm up immediately before climbing will reduce your rate of injury
>>
>>207761
>t. man who will never post a climb but will act like he climbs v12
>>
>>207776
that’s pretty good
>>
I love seeing people lamenting the fact that they’re stuck at a V2 after 2 years of climbing indoors and then someone recommends them to watch a hannah morris video. Are you trying to make them get worse at climbing?
>>
Newfag here. Why do people hate board climbing? I've heard of fags bragging about it nonstop, but the climbers who do it at my gym are friendly as fuck. Is it like a regional thing or something? I think it's better than hangboard fags saying, "DO MAX HANGS REEEE"
>>
>>207785
HAHA. It's funny because' it's hanna Morris. Haha. Guys. He brought her up. HAHA. It's funny because she's not a good climber. HAHA. Remember guys? Isn't she terrible? HAHA
>>
>>207801
ignore the bitter fags in this thread. post quality has taken a nose dive, once again.
board climbing is fun and great training.
don't be afraid to ask people climbing way above your level to cut in on the board, most of the time they are happy to share the board with you and they can also give you great advice.
>>
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>>207835
>>
>>207801
>Why do people hate board climbing?
No one (who's good) does, board climbing is really cool and the people climbing moon or kilter board are typically very good climbers.
If you have no spray wall available then board climbing is the next best thing.
>>
>>207835
this man climbs v18
>>
>>207801
Two types of training board climbers: (1) those losers whose entire climbing identity is exclusively climbing mostly the kilter board where they have an entire IG dedicated to posting their climbs and have the portable fans and tripod set up; and (2) those who use it to train and supplement their regular indoor and outdoor climbing because they know it is called a “training” board for a reason. The former are fags and the latter are cool
>>
>>207848
>>207858
>>207831
Noted. Im' still really new to Moonboarding, I've only gotten a couple of V3s. But my gym got a new spray wall. What're things to try on there? I like how the moonboard lights up telling my dumbass brain where to go and letting my body figure out the rest. With a spray wall, I feel like I'm not creative enough to push myself on it properly. I've seen groups of people use a laser pointer and just try to fuck with each other on it, that looks pretty fun. Is that the general idea of using it? I think I'll stick to doing moonboard once a week.
>>
>>207887
>I think I'll stick to doing moonboard once a week.
Awesome, nothing more you'll need for the beginning.
You'll surely notice gains in finger strength and body tension after a few months
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>>207887
Spray walls are great. Endless variety of climbs. You can go as hard or soft as you want and train doing specific techniques. Download the stokt app where you can create your own problems on it and others can do the same (see photo as example)
>>
>>207897
Whoah. I;m downloading that today.
>>207888
>You'll surely notice gains in finger strength and body tension after a few months
I've already noticed it. My pinch and crimp strength are the highest they've been. Also I love how it helps with footwork. I can feel the force in my feet keeping me on the wall.
>>
Technique bros I'm back. There was this V7 at my gym that had this start with a tiny pinch only big enough for one hand, and a foothold that was on a volume that was all overhung. The start is to match the pinch with your foot on the hold far from you while you're in a crouched position, and the climb begins when you lift your right foot. Then you have to do this large dynamic swing move to another slopey/thin pinch.

I could barely start this shit. I found that by really forcing my foot down, I could temporarily latch onto the pinch better, but as soon as my other leg lifts up, I just can't grip it.
tl;dr- Technique bros, the fuck do I do here. It seems like just having more pinch strength is de way.

Also, there's this other V7 that's a campus on similar pinchey slopey things. I can match the start, but as soo as I try to campus it, I slip off. How do you develop the contact STRENGTH
>Strength
For this shit?

I'm so autistic right now jesus fucking christ climbs like these make me want to take every "it's just technique" guy and slam him into a traffic underpass, BUT I'm giving you guys the benefit of the doubt since I'm trying to overcome my
>Autism
To try and do this shit. C'mon technique bros, help
>>
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>>208109
1.) stop bitching
2.) experiment
3.) think
4.) refine
>>
>>207527
She's just bad at jumping. Sorry the setters can't put the starting holds on the fucking floor for the shorties. Not everyone is going to be able to do every move. You can't just keep nerfing the problems.
>t. shorty
>>
>>208121
1) Yes sir.
2) Already have a few ideas.
3) See 2.
4) Yes sir.
>>
>>208109
>the fuck do I do here. It seems like just having more pinch strength is de way.
Do more deadlifts, they make you a better climber apparently.
Or maybe stop being a salty bitch and actually climb for once
>>
>>208130
And remember to have a good time with it too. Keep us posted.
>>
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CTPyp1kDmAL/?hl=en
Remember bros if it only takes you 11 years to climb v6 on a board, you have olympic potential
>>
I've hit a wall at 130% bw max hangs 20 mm edge last couple of months
In fact
Ive hit a wall and bounced off it and have had to deload
Is there anything to be concerned about here? My body for some reason wanted me to deload? Can I expect to progress again hereafter? I don't feel like I have naturally strong grip strength anyway. I am naturally strong, but I don't think my grip strength is. I realise tendon strength is different to muscular strength, and it takes time.
>>
I see some guys I swear who can just hang with 30kg without much training
I don't im genetically gifted in the grip strength department at all
But I suppose this sport is massively about overcoming weaknesses
>>
>>208260
Do not bully the south african contingent. They did their best and had fun.
>>
>>208268
The solution is to climb hard shit regularly but beyond that you have to give more information. How regularly do you climb? How regularly do you hangboard? Are max-hangs the only thing you do? Do you properly follow the protocols you're using? Do you eat enough protein? You likely just need to climb hard shit.
>>
I was at boulder gym for the first time and I could only climb 5b.
Some 5c were looking easy but I discovered them too late and hands were already fucked.
How bad is it?
>>
>>208283
I climb about 4 times a week
I hangboard like 1.5 times a week
When I'm not hangboarding I'm doing chin ups with an obscene number. Like 170% of my bodyweight
>>
>>208284
it's only bad if you stop going because you think you don't meet some arbitrary standard some idiot set on a Mongolian basket weaving forum.
just keep climbing if you had fun. at the beginning, progress is crazy fast.
>>
>>208291
Climb less, rest more. That alone will fix it. Climbing 4 times a week WITH added hangboarding gives you only 2 full days of recovery. The fact that you can do heavy chins but struggle with hand strength tells me your back is plenty strong. Just focus on climbing hard shit MORE, but having more rest days. Lots of people overdo it then wonder why they're not "progressing". If you insist on hangboarding, then you can do either of the following:

Plan 1: Climb 3 days a week, but every other week replace 1 climbing day with a hangboarding day. This ensures you have lots of time for recovery, while also letting you get "stronger".

Plan 2: Climb 2 days a week, hangboard on the third. Ill advised IMO. You're better off just climbing.

Plan 3 (My preferred option) No more hangboarding. Climb 3 days a week, but on one of those days, climb really aggressive shit. Do 2x normal climbs, then 1 session where you do Kilterboard/moonboard projects exclusively. (Obviously warmup on regular shit). This option's preferred because it let's you stick to your autistic habits of finger-gaining, but also helps you develop technique and body tension. I assure you, moonboarding at your level will give you the same if not more gains than hangboarding will.
>>
>>208306
Holy based
Thanks for this post
>>
This is going to sound so faggoty but - How do you get into big wall climbing? I want to climb at Yosemite but I feel like unless you can climb 5.13 indoors it's not worth going. Gymrat living in the Midwest planning to move to Cali soon.

I've done multipitches outside before btw, but only to like 300 feet.
>>
>>208341
My understanding is you just make friends with people who are involved with that and join them. That seems to be all there is to it.
>>
>Plan 3 (My preferred option) No more hangboarding.
retarded advice
>>
>>208306
>No more hangboarding.
>do Kilterboard/moonboard projects exclusively
VERY BASED
hangboarding is for homofags, real climbers climb
>>
>>208367
Real climbers lift weights. Fuck yout 5.whatever, what's your bench press/squat/deadlift
>>
I love climbing. I love projecting. Working on this 5.12. Really hard sloper (for me, since I suck at them) about midway in the route. Fell like 6 times working on that sloper move. But felt more comfortable each time. Eventually pumped and will try again Wednesday. Even though I am power grunting and cursing, I am having so much.
>>
Really need Janja to dedicate a year to outdoor climbing. Need her to be the strongest female outdoor climber since I am tired of hearing about ugly katie lamb
>>
>>208376
Nice man, love hearing it. You've got this down, just make sure you get lots of protein.
>>
>>208379
Unlikely. There is too much money in plastic hold climbing (for her). She's unlikely to try anything exceptionally hard/risky outdoor. I know she did that giant chimney, that's not what i mean by risky.
>>
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>>208379
>me, my dog, my trust issues
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>>208379
>>208417
I think we're more likely to see some high quality sends from Brooke.
She said in one of her post-Olympics interviews that she's really looking forward to climbing outdoors now that she's not focused on the Olympics and that in the past she's never had the free time to properly project a boulder (which is a pretty big statement for someone who's sent v15).
>>
>>208435
Why do you simps keep talking about female climbers. Ondrabros, rise up.
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>>208437
>Ondrabros
Old and busted sorry.
>>
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This shit singlehandedly solved my raw skin problem more than climbskin + hand lotion ever did. Y'all need to use this, it's like $15 at a local walgreens/CVS. Hands can go from bloody messes to fucking 99% in one day.
>>
>>208442
Thanks I'll take a look.
>>
>>208443
Follow the instructions properly. You literally just need a dab of this shit, like barely the size of a finger-nail. Just take your index, scrape a tiny bit off (It's like really soft soap in terms of texture), rub. Skin will feel weird for 5 minutes, but then feel really nice after. You can apply it twice a day. I've been using it for awhile and it massively helped me.
>>
>>208442
this shit irritates the fuck out of my eczema prone skin
>>
>>208442
I have never ever felt a single benefit from all these finger/hand skin products. Literally why do you need them? What do you take them for?
>Guaranteed relief
relief for what?
>>
I use a hand balm post climb and it makes my skin feel less on fire and has a nice fresh minty menthol smell. It makes the drive home more pleasant. I feel like my cooked skin develops blisters less often when I use it but I haven't been taking notes or anything.
>>
>>208454
You're using too much, and who the fuck has eczema on their hands??? This is for hand-use only.
>>208457
For raw skin. Have you ever climbed long enough where it starts to hurt just to touch holds? It's for that. Since I started using this, I've never gotten to the point where my skin is so fucked up that it hurts to touch shit. Also seems to prevent flappers too, but desu I haven't had a flapper in years so that could just be natural adaptation.
>>
>>208516
>and who the fuck has eczema on their hands???
i have it too? just on the back of my hands though
>>
>>208522
Oh I see what you mean. I strictly apply it to the front. I don't even think it's possible to have eczema on the palm, but hey if it upsets it it upsets it, stick to using lotion. But for most people, this shit should work. My fingers bleed at 1/10th the frequency.
>>
>>208527
My sister has eczema on her palms. It is not even that uncommon.
>>
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>>208540
>>208522
>>208454
When the fuck did this place become an "eczema" subreddit? Fuck off with your shitty diseases, if you don't want to use X skin product then don't, not everyone needs to know about your faggot disease. Jesus fucking christ.
>>
>>208546
sorry your royal highness lmao
>>
Is Tommy Caldwell's time over? Now that the Dawn Wall movie has been watched by everyone, does this mean the end for his career? I haven't heard of anything notable from him. Come to think of it, what's been going on with all the "legends" as of late? Names like Alex Megos and Adam Ondra are being replaced by Janja and Ethan Pringle. What're some good people to follow nowadays? I can't watch Adam's youtube for shit because it just screams "numale documentary". They're all longer than 12 minutes and most of them have B-roll where he's just driving in his car being a normal dude.
>>
>>208580
Tommy Caldwell and Adam Ondra have kids now. This is basically a death-sentence for professional climbers because 1) they can't no-life their futuristic cave project for weeks on end and 2) they need to start making sponsors real happy, which means making frequent and easily digestible content. Also Tommy is 46 years old.

I'm not sure there's anyone making content that is consistently worth watching. Here are some individual climbing videos I've seen recently that I thought were very good:
https://youtube.com/watch?v=aGE4SOOmYlk&si=bdbmGHvyj0Rummvo
https://youtube.com/watch?v=ji4At78H5Ys&si=r4nPEQTXFP9S4_tz
https://youtube.com/watch?v=Hg7VLCiUeGc&si=aIIYs0v9TDIu1ccb
https://youtube.com/watch?v=dMqYWyGhofM&si=1qdSsoc0GHWsG0EZ
https://youtube.com/watch?v=_X_RD2PkrNg&si=syrLUTNWPzf0wp0F
https://youtube.com/watch?v=0dF8CXZupGY&si=XEXDaBtroVu55hyn
https://youtube.com/watch?v=mFMup6zbl7I&si=rwZAfUFdFkris9Zj
https://youtube.com/watch?v=snHVl7AX1mw&si=6M9-IyvtjW2eZjDl
>>
>>208587
>https://youtube.com/watch?v=aGE4SOOmYlk&si=bdbmGHvyj0Rummvo
>Cinematography was insane on this one. Seriously talented, looked so beautiful
Top numale comment
>>
>>208629
Cinematography is good. What makes it numale is when it switches from dope ass terrain to watching onions fuckers talk about how woke they are. Like, why the fuck do I want to watch these fuckers set up a crash pad as if it were impressive? This is what I mean that most videos are mostly fucking B-roll. In the video you embed:
1) Autistic screaming by 7 seconds in
2) Fucking advertisements for La sportiva at the 18 second mark
3) At the 1 minute mark, 30 seconds is spent looking at crash pad setup
4) More autistic screaming at 3:30
5) Everything from the 5-9 minute mark is B-roll
6) 9:45-11:05 is B-roll
7) 12:45-13:15 is B-roll
8) 15:50 - 17:04 is just credits, as if this were a fucking student film at the emmys
Fuck these guys.
>>
>>208639
This video did NOT have to be 17 minutes long. Some channels I know have really good production value and make short 4-5 minute vids of their boulders and that's fine. You get a little close up, ya know, some cinematic flair of the shit, then they send it, maybe show a fall or two, then they celebrate, video ends. No ads, no fucking credits, not 10+ minutes of B-roll because fucking matpat ruined YouTube for everyone by explaining how videos need to be long to get media attention. Fuck anyone who makes videos longer than 9 minutes. This did NOT have to be 17 fucking minutes.
>>
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Does this bitch ever stop complaining ?

>muh height
>muh country
> Waaa no one brushed my holds
>>
>>208648
The wall hits hard especially when you're a sporty tomboy type who isn't very good anymore and not as cute either. It's rough. I did notice the brush jannies at the games were few and placed far away from the wall. I doubt that's what she's talking about though.
>>
Some guy in the audience is streaming Youth Championship qualifications if you're interested:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pJOuuh17-Ns

IFSC doesn't do qualis coverage for anything so they won't be streaming until at least tomorrow.
>>
>>208676
DJ's going hard
>>
>>208648
Dog I love Staša, she may not be the best but for me she is <3
>>
>>208699
Simp
>>208435
Simp
>>207450
Simp.
>These losers do nothing but talk about professional girl climbers bc their hentai ran out
>>
>>208268
I deloaded , hanged for a sufficient amount of time at the lower weight and now the original weight I was stuck at it is justified for me to go at again
Hopefully ill progress onwards from here otherwise I will be pissed
>>
>>208720
Deload? Brother it's been 4 days, the fuck do you think a deload is? Try not hanging for 2 weeks, focusing on climbing, then periodically upping the weight over a course of 4-6 weeks. Jesus fucking christ, you're one of those redditards who does nothing but max hang then wonder why they don't see progress.

You sound like the type of person who fails a 225lb bench press, then rather than try and build it up slowly, you just try maxxing out every single day thinking that's where strength comes from.

Muscles take time to develop. Tendons take time to develop. You won't see significant gains in only a couple of days time. You don't deload for 96 god damn hours. Just fucking climb jesus christ.
>>
>>208713
>talk about professional girl climbers
In a climbing thread? Preposterous!
>>
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>>208722
>>
>>208725
I understand that you hate climbing but don't you have something better to do than post your shit opinions in the climbing general? Maybe someone on /fit/ needs weightlifting advice?
>>
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>>208729
>Someone criticizes your fetish
Don't you have better shit to post than simping over random girl climbers you think are hot you pansy-ass faggot? This thread switches between actual climbing conversations and losers masturbating to their climbing waifus. Fuck off.
>>
>>208730
But you're my climbing waifu.
I masturbate to you anon
>>
Just finished moonboarding. Happy to say that this is the first session where I didn't feel much stress on my fingers. I feel like it's finally paying off. How're you guys doing on your board climbs?
>>
>he misinterpreted my miho post
>>
>>208731
you better send tributes faggot.
>>
>>208736
post climbing shoe on head
>>
>>208745
I can spit in the shoe first, put it on my head, then put it on slowly and sell the vid to you on my OF.
>>
>>208639
Woahhhhh bro is that a video-based sped-up “timelapse” of shadows hitting the surface of rock! My mind is blown amazing cinematography
>>
>>208752
>writes entire comment roasting how autistic the video is
>You decide to reply with >>208752
>Fuckers like>>208730 acting like shit
Is everyone on this thread just a huge asshole? Anyways something climbing related - Is it me or does doing a max hang on a small edge massively improve my performance for the next 2 sessions? Every now and then I do a 10-15 second hold on a 16-18mm edge and I find that it "wakes" up my hands. Anyone else experience this?
>>
>>208721
No I was stuck at 130% body weight max hang for months
Just deloaded because my body told me to
Now i will progress
I believe firmly in 20mm max hangs


>Not hanging for two weeks
Total bro science
Deload periods are bioscience
I listen to my body

Watch me progress now
Redditor
>>
>>208756
I think you're retarded but you also hate redditors so honestly I wish you the best.
>>
ganbatte kohana-chan!
>>
>>208750
hot
>>
>>208753
>Is everyone on this thread just a huge asshole?
Climbing people who want to talk about climbing online usually are. I'm only here to simp for comp climbing girls.
>>
Youth A lead semis is up:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mwKsJELNxrw

This coverage is a very slight improvement over last years. They do show the standings, briefly, in the form of what appears to be a screenshot taken off the IFSC website. It is progress. I don't know why IFSC slashed the budget on this competition so hard the last few years. They used to cover it the same as a World Cup with commentary and the whole bit. Now it's clearly an afterthought they seem like they don't even want to show at all.
>>
Uh... wow. So /climb/, you may want to make a note of a Japanese teenager by the name of Manato Kurashiki. He is 16 years old and he just made the semi finals lead route look like a joke. That route was not undercooked. He was only one of two guys to top it. Manato, however, flew up the damn thing and finished with more than 2 minutes left on his clock.
>>
>>208732
>How're you guys doing on your board climbs?
Still stuck at Moonboard V4's after around half a year (but can't go as often as I'd like to)
But being around 10-15 kg too heavy for my height I'm doing ok I guess.
>>
>>208795
>Japanese
Wtf makes them so incredibly good at climbing?
>>
>>208807
I heard on some podcast that they do all their training on the wall instead of 20mm edges.
>>
There should be PHDs done on the topless man gimmick at bouldering, very strange
Especially if you're like huffing and puffing near the top of an asterisk v5..what are you doing with your top off
Is it some kind of gay signal thing? Unironically
>>
>>208813
Mate, I can barely climb v3 and I still take my shirt off the moment I step onto the mats. Sorry you're so uncomfortable in your own body.
>>
>>208815
Yeah you're a fag
>>208813
only exercise i'll go topless for is running when it's excessively hot out; it makes no sense in an air conditioned climbing gym
>>
>>208818
>t. Tubby
Lose the fat rolls
>>
>>208815
Why?
>>
>>208818
My climbing gym isn't air conditioned but I never took my shirt off. Never seen anybody in my gym do it either.
>>
>>208812
Next you're gonna tell me they don't deadlift all the time
>>
Morons will do the lamest dyno and call it a V10
>>
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>>208818
>Sees shirtless dude
>decides to bitch about it on /xs/
>Calls it gay signalling
Could anything be more gay? It's fat pussies like you seething that makes it all the more worth it. Imagine being so insecure about your disgusting body that you feel obligated to bitch about it. How about this fucko - Confront someone in person about it, rather than huff and puff in your sad little corner of the V2 bouldering wall. Kys.
>>
>>208807
It's bc they set really hard and their gyms act as filters. Once people see how hard it is, they give up fast, so it leaves only the most dedicated/talented climbers to excel. Note - Not every gym in japan is like this, FFS Pewdiepie climbs in Japan and sends "v7s", but many are. The setting is very technical and unforgiving. Almost always have shitty holds, or few holds at all, teaching you to rely on balance and body tension.
>>208801
Just do it more frequently and you're bound to see progress.
>>
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Currently climbing at a V5 level, but would like to compete in a comp being held 5 weeks from now where I would compete in the V6-V8 Category.

I've tried my best to records what my weekly training looks like, and it's always a little different but this is what it's like generally:

(Monday): 12pm - Squats, leg raises, crunches for 1 hour
(Tuesday): 5am - 45 min. trail run. / 12pm - 10 minutes hard rowing on machine, stationary cycling for 20 minutes. / 5pm - 2-hour climbing session (mostly V4 and end with some V5 and V6 projects).

(Wednesday): 12pm - kettlebells workout for 1 Hour - 3 sets each of one-arm swing, clean and press, snatch, squat.

(Thursday): 5am - 45 min. trail run. / 12pm - 10 minutes hard rowing on machine, stationary cycling for 20 minutes. / 5pm - 2-hour climbing session (mostly V4 and end with some V5 and V6 projects).

(Friday): 12pm - relaxed session of moon board climbing for 1-hour

(Saturday): 5am - 1-hour morning hike with weighted backpack (40 lbs). / 2pm - 2-hour climbing session (V4-V6)

(Sunday): Rest

Looking for advice on what exercises I should keep or do more of that will help increase my climbing level in the next 5 weeks. I should note that by the end of each day I'm pretty wiped out and by Sunday all I want to do is lay on the couch since the week feels pretty intense.
I should also note that some of these exercises like the squats and the weighted hiking i'm carrying over from my mountaineering training which I'm not specifically training for right now.
Thanks!!
>>
>>208851
Here's why your training schedule is retarded:
>4 climbing days with literally no complete rest between them
>Consistently climb AFTER doing other exhausting shit so you climb with even LESS recovery
Will this program keep you fit as fuck? Hell yeah it will. But if you're looking to progress your climbing, it's dogshit. Do this:

Drop the Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday workouts, and move Thursday's workout to Wednesday. Guarantees you're resting ~36-48 hours between climbing sessions, massively improves recovery meaning you can give your projects harder attempts, meaning you develop more climbing specific adaptations.

Fucking 6 day programs make me sick.
>>
>>208852
I'll alter it, you're right, rest days could help a lot.
>>
>>208847
the only time i take my shirt off climbing is to mog retards who do v3 shirtless lmao
>>
>>208853
Make sure you climb Monday as well, forgot to mention. MWF is a really good schedule for climbing. Guarantees rest and gives you a weekend with an extra day of recovery to guarantee you have plenty of rest. This translates to better performance and more time spent at peak performance. Know what that translates to? Getting better.

Also - On days where you do other things like squats and snatches, do them *AFTER* you climb. That way you climb at peak performance without any fatigue.
>>
>>208831
>Why?
Going shirtless when performing physical activity just feels natural to me. Doesn't matter whether I'm at the gym doing deads and OHP, cycling down to the beach, hiking innawoods or climbing; just feels right.

>>208856
Only sois with pre-existing insecurities can be mogged.
You think anyone with an ounce of testosterone would get upset by you whipping off your shirt and sending a v7 while they struggle on the v3 next to it? Nah man, I'm happy for you. Shit like that gives a guy a goal to aim at.
Nice work, bro, crushed it. Fucking sick.
>>
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>>208869
Absolute chad.
>>
Watching Junior lead semis now. Doing my annual questioning of the point of the junior youth division. Junior is U20, so 18 and 19 year olds. If you're not making World Cups by this age it's not going to happen. It just feels like college shitters taking one last crack at winning something before they quit competitions. Youth B (14 and 15) and Youth A (16 and 17) are more exciting as many of these kids are the future of comp climbing.
>>
>>208820
loads of soft looking blokes go shirtless as well so your point hardly stands
idk why they do it they don't do anything else shirtless
it is strange
>>
>>208845
So true
>>
>>208847
loads of blokes with disgusting bodies go shirtless you mong
>>
Some places seem to be more topless friendly than others
For instance armley depot Leeds gets quite gross in the evenings
But I never see anyone shirtless at boulder Brighton
>>
>>208902
I dunno whether or not it’s even allowed in the gym I go to. Nobody ever climbs shirtless. It’s probably a culture thing, though, as modesty is expected of people round these parts.
>>
>>208909
most people aren't very strong or fit, and it shows in their body. or they are just insecure about it. most gyms i know don't allow people to climb shirtless for that reason, it's not worth it the awkwardness it would cause for everyone else. also maybe it would be awkward for the girls in general too, they are disadvantaged because they can't ever do the same since they have tits. and maybe they would get horny at shirtless guys climbing, sometimes hot girls climbing in those yoga pants do it for me too
>>
I really wanna get into climbing, but 95% of all climbs in my country are trad climbs and trad gear is expensive as fuck. I guess I'll have to gymcel until I find someone who's willing to share gear...
>>
>>208911
Gym owners also probably don’t want people to smear sweat, grease and dead skin all over the place.
>>
>>208921
Not another hygeine freak. Okay buddy, listen - Most climbers, climb outside. Outside rocks, fun fact, have been shat on by birds for millions of years, and have been festering in all sorts of bacteria, fungi, and gross shit, exacerbated by hot humid whether and the occasional dinosaur fart. If you think rocks are clean, you're retarded. If you think gym holds are clean, you're retarded.

Now. Some gyms clean their holds occasionally, which is great. But if you think that rock climbing gyms are sterile environments, you're a faggot who should never leave their house, since everything is dirty. You sound like one of those faggots who gets triggered when someone brings their climbing shoes in the bathroom. Hate to break it to you, but there's probably already shit and blood on every hold you're touching, be it human or otherwise. Get fucked.
>>
Boardbros - I'm thinking of building my own climbing wall for my next apartment. Videos like
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_zHFdTYvNeo
Show you the fundamentals which I like. Does anyone have experience building these? Any mistakes to avoid?
>>
>>208911
>awkward for the girls
>who then proceed to climb in skin tight compression shorts that dive deep in to their buttcrack and wear skimpy sports bras
Uhhhh huh
>>
>>208924
wow you're one salty bitch
>>
>>208886
The name of the game is being young and having 10+ years of climbing xp by the time your 19 (MAX), otherwise don't even think about going pro .

You won't make it.
>>
>>208911
only people who get horny at shirtless dudes are other dudes
>>
What's the advantage of the Kilterboard over the Moonboard? I can climb at an steeper angle and that's it?
>>
>>208924
I’m not a germaphobe and I’ve got no problem dealing with sweat nor bird shit. The employees still have to keep the place tidy and clean the mats, and I completely understand why they wouldn’t like it if lots of sweaty topless dudes rolled around on them all day every day.
>>
Think I'm about to have another eureka moment at bouldering
Idk I can just feel something in my bones
>>
I'd die for this dude's indoor climbing setup. How do you even get a little shack like this?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dfOgn7FnFmQ
>>
There's a new hold design at the youth champs. I think it's the same company that made those clear no-tex abominations. In this case they use the clear plastic as a volume and integrate a colored textured piece on top. In practice this is a great idea as it shows on camera very clearly which part is no tex and which is textured.
>>
>>209004
Imagine watching youth competitors outshine you. You're a cuck and slave to those fucking champions you fucking loser. Kys.
>>
>>209005
Okay well if it's like that I am definitely climbing shirtless in your gym.
>>
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>>209008
You will never be at the olympics. And if you are, let me know so I can end my fucking life REEEEEEEEEEE

always remember kids, post your credit card for me.

I fucking hate comp climbers
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>>209004
I see, quite cool but I've never touched one of these holds.

heel hooking must be the new meta, every single move they heel hook or double heel hook...
>>
>>209004
Yeah, I saw those.

Also saw one of the pure no-tex holds up there.
Is this the first time they've used a no-tex hold on a lead route?
>>
>>209012
>Is this the first time they've used a no-tex hold on a lead route?
Uh, I'm not sure. First time using the clear ones maybe.
>>
>>209010
>I fucking hate comp climbers
The God Emperor has spoken!
(I'm ok with comp climbing but I'd like more tradition style climbing and less dyno/parkour stuff)
>>
>>209023
Fr I miss when climbing gyms were all just crimp ladders unironically
>>
>>209065
Ask me how I know you're American
>>
A gym in my city has started to prohibit walking barefoot on the mats.The fucking foot police is coming for us.
>>
>>209074
This. This is why I hate hygiene tards. It begins with banning shoes in the bathroom, then it gets to the point where you can't even walk fucking barefoot, later they'll have us fucking step into a UV room before entering the gym before forbidding bare hands from touching the holds. This of course necessitates the banning of loose chalk and chalk balls (since bacteria and viruses could fester inside). Only gym-cleaned rentals will be allowed, can't risk any outdoor debris from your own personal climbing shoes to get on the holds. This sounds like a meme but half the shit I mentioned has already happened.
>>
>>209074
Usually these rules aren't put in on whim at random times. It's always because somebody got staph and the gym overreacted.
>>
Youth champs lead is done. Looks like the future for men's side is Japan Korea Japan Korea China Japan. Women's isn't quite so one sided... yet. Europe still has a partial hold on women's comp climbing.
>>
Freeing up arms with tank top is fine
Shirtless should be banned because you can't can't stop the flabby blokes only from taking their tops off, needs to be blanket ban
>>
I'm 194cm (6'4), about 77kg. What should be my ideal weight? I feel like ive been climbing good and more consistent last year. Ive been home to my local craig and i did flash some 6b+ and 6c's this month But i dont particulally feel strong, so i want to really start getting a consistent training in. and nice apps or training regiments you guys do?
>>
>>209075
>This of course necessitates the banning of loose chalk and chalk balls (since bacteria and viruses could fester inside)
I've been to a gym which only allowed liquid chalk.
They also banned climbing shirtless.
>>
>>209071
Calm down, yurocuck
>>
>>209096
You might actually benefit from gaining some weight and developing muscle. Emil Abrahamson is 6'1 and was 182lbs (~82.5kg) during some of his hardest ascents. You're taller, so you can stand to be slightly heavier.

Really the only thing you do is gain muscle slowly over time and keep climbing. Telling you to lose weight to anorexia max would be retarded, you're already a fucking lanky skeleton. Don't just gain weight for the sake of it.
>>
>>209098
>I've been to a gym which only allowed liquid chalk.
The air quality must've been incredible!
>>
>>209011
I love slopers but holy fuck the absolute overuse of gigantic holds in lead competitions and bizarre lack of chip footholds has completely separated outdoor lead from comp lead routes.
>>
Asked a setter for beta today and he told me he sent it using the bolt hole on a volume. What a bunch of hacky faggots.
>>
>>209096
Fuck man I'm 6'2 and 92kg
I need to slim down
>>
>>209138
Bros, is it weird if I don't like lead climbing indoors?
>>
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>>209142
No I don't like lead indoors either. It feels wrong in some way I can't describe. Like unsatisfying. It's not the plastic holds necessarily. There is an outdoor artificial lead wall about an hour drive away from me that I enjoy. Something about the roof being there maybe.
>>
>>209096
I saw Adam Ondra saying his ideal weight just a bit over 70 kg, he sometimes goes up to 74 kg and feels strong but the extra weight is bad. He is 186 cm tall.
>>
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>>209146
>Let's use this one guy to say what the ideal weight is
>Let's use this one guy to say what the ideal height is
>Let's use this one guy as the standard
>He's the best climber so everything he does is the standard
I've known 6'3 people who weighed 200lbs (90kg) send V13 outdoors and 5'6 guys weighing 125 sending V12s.
>>
>>209147
The dude just said what Ondra once said, he didnt say "this is the standard"

Way to overreact.
>>
yellow feverbros...
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>>209153
This is what I meant by Europe still being in the conversation.
>>
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>campus flashes your V8 project
Nothing personnell 30 year old gumby, now out of the way as my friends hog the overhang
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Okay I know youth champs is a low budget affair but did they really need to save the extra 2 hours by doing both girls and boys boulder semis at the same time? I can't see shit.
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>>208109
>>208121
>>208130
Just an update - Went back today and actually managed to do a better job on the start. I couldn't do the first move, but I was at least stable in the position. I was also able to do the second move on it!!!! Moonboarding is definitely paying off. I feel so much more confident in my footwork and body tension, and my pinch strength is climbing through the roof.

Also managed to do another difficult crimpy climb that last time I could only do in segments. Managed to complete it my second try. Moonboarding solved all my problems.
>>
I tried bouldering outside and everything is 20ft tall with sloping top-outs who the fuck set these
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>>209167
God did. Nearly every boulder will have a slopey top out, you just have to get used to mounting over. Try to find problems that're your style. Traverses are cool too if you can find them.
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>>209163
>Moonboarding solved all my problems.
All hail Ben Moon, it's by far my favorite system board
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>>209155
Are team kids a euro / american thing? The only zoomers I see are broccoli heads in rentals

t. Australian
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>>209187
Even more so in American gyms. Usually, the “coaches” work for the gym and some are the routesetters for the gym. Always after school and the coaches just let the team kids run wild in the gym doing whatever they want. Glorified after school babysitting
>>
>>209188
You say that but half the class turn into monsters at the sport. It's the equivalent of American soccer practice, where half the kids kinda just fuck around, and the other half juggle to 100 and are doing fucking rainbows by age 9.
>>
>>209191
They’re only monsters at climbing insofar as the compounding factors that make climbing harder as an adult really are nonexistent in those kids. Whether they stick with it into adulthood is different than the kids who are good at 11 and then stop. I know men who climbed as kids who struggled with 5.9 as adults. Really the team kid thing is just a holy banana stand for climbing gyms because not only do parents pay for gym membership they also pay the team kid fee
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>>209193
You're breaking my heart here. I wanted to enroll my future kid in this shit. Mainly because a few of my close friends were on the adolescent team. A couple of early birds who started at 15 regularly go hard at 20/21, which is nuts to think about.
>>
>>209187
I see them in Australia. They seem to do drills for like 10 minutes and then kind of play the rest of the time and the instructor is basically just keeping them psyched to try stuff. Sometimes they play +1s and horse etc. It's hard to keep little kids on task and just playing around on the wall is probably the best way to learn movement on it.

One time I saw them on top rope with the climber blindfolded and the rest of the kids yelling beta up at them.
>>
>>209195
Yeah, I was typing too fast and forgot to add the men I know who are struggling at 5.9 stopped after graduating high school and never picked it back up until their 30s (the age where I started climbing). There is a crusher at my gym who has been climbing since he was little and never stopped and is from last I heard (since he uses mostly the moonboard at the gym) is doing V11-12s outside. I guess the motivation for kids is different than back then because now they can aim for the olympics and be sponsored to travel the world doing IFSC tournaments. Honestly, I will enroll my kid now with these conditions since a livelihood and availability is much more accessible. The problem with kids is motivation because their skill is so high early. There’s a team kid at my gym who can do all the V10 problems in my gym as if it was nothing and just looks bored (of maybe that’s his demeanor since I always ask him for beta and gives it willingly). I think team kids are great when they are controlled by the coaches and understand that the gym is not for them only.
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>>209201
Okay, yeah that makes a lot more sense. Honestly, if the kid seems bored, then it's time for him to start going outdoors and crushing it there, that way he'll actually have a shot at the olympics. I was bouldering in California and I came across this buff teen cruising through my project. I strike up a conversation and find out he just turned 13 and had sent a V10 outdoor project a week prior, but he looked so buff I thought he was older. It was funny as hell because his mom came to pick him up and he was like, "I'm coming!" Weird how those freaks of nature exist, but when the environment becomes a limiting factor, it's time to upscale and go outside. It's why you hear stories of 11 year olds climbing 5.14 - Their parents actively encourage their development.
>>
>>209163
Moonboarding is great, I still suck at it but did my second 6B+ (hard V4) today and hopefully will soon send a 6C.
7A would be the dream but if I ever manage to do that it will still take a few years I fear
>>
>>209204
Nice progress man, and also don't count yourself out. I also suck at it, and have yet to send anything above a V3. Just keep projecting on it, I'm sure you'll make rapid progress if you push yourself and focus on correcting your mistakes.
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>>209195
>no I wanted my kid to become a guaranteed Olympian who is the next Adam Ondra, not to enjoy time with his friends monkeying around on plastic, and just develop an appreciation for fitness in general
>he needs to climb v12 by the time he's 16 so his dad can live through him vicariously, reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
Holy fuck dude, what the fuck is your issue
>>
>>209216
Yeah because that's totally what I said. Good job, redditer. Upvoted. Only thing I found heartbreaking was the idea that it was a daycare rather than a focused team.
>>
>>209216
>N-no-- You can't get kids to be s-s-s------SUCCESSFUL in a sport...
>They just need to have fun
>whaoh, good job on that V1 billy, I know it took you three years
>You get a participation award
>Being s-o-y is okay with me
>We're all winners
pussies like you make me sick.
>>
>>209218
>he thinks a child with even the most basic minimum wage coach will be stuck at v1 for 3 years
You guys are idiots, leave a kid alone in a gym and he'll be climbing v6 within a year or so, happens a lot at my gym where 13yo+ up can go without parental supervision. And from what I'm reading in this thread, v6 makes them better than 75% of this thread
>>
>>209222
Nowhere did I say anything about trying to get my kid into the Olympics or become the next Adam Ondra? That faggot just read into it because he's a sperg. Jesus fucking christ, you can't even talk about wanting to get hypothetical children into a team program without some fucking retard getting on your ass about how you're pressuring them into becoming the next Messi or some shit. Fuck all of you. Get cancer.
>>
>>209232
>Going to 4chan
>for advice on how to raise your kid
yeah, I'm doubling down, you fucking retard. What, rejected from the football team too many times? Think you're kid's going to be popular over climbing? You do know after he tries and brag about it, they'll smash his head against the locker and drag him to the bathroom and treat him like the ugliest cheerleader, desperate to suck dick just for some validation.
He'll return home one day, a broken look in his eyes, cum leaking out of his asshole, and when you ask him how climbing practice was, he'll look you right in the eye and lie.
Go talk to actual well-adjusted people, like other parents at the climbing gym. Don't come here and mention your kid, because I will shit on you every single fucking time.
>>
>>209235
You have real fucking problems man see a doctor or kill yourself or something. It doesn't matter what the topic is you sperg out with these insane overreaching projections just so you can sperg out harder when you're told to fuck off. Grow a brain.
>>
>>209195
>>209201
I'd say this is pretty gym dependent as well. My gym has the kinda standard afterschool program but also has 2-3 kids participating in youth national comps who spend a lot more focused time with the coaches/setters and the folks that run the gym. Two of them have gone from being noticeably good to the best in the gym. The people that have "aged out" still hang around and coach/give set feedback/help with youth workouts as well. It seems nice.
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>>209235
Bro I'm in my 20s without a fucking kid. I'm going to ask 4chan for advice about everything from the wedding to everything because what you just typed was the funniest shit I've read on 4chan in awhile.
>>
>>207453
Arent we all
>>
>>207463
The only real climbing is when you stop climbing and start GAINING :0
>>
>>207464
Dude that shit is awesome
>>
>>207495
Get the shocks
Climb the rocks
>>
>>207598
Your friend is a fucken monster dude
>>
Girl on the left is Jennifer Buckley from Slovenia. She just pulled off the double gold in lead and boulder at youth champs. The last person to do the double was Anastasia Sanders in 2021. In Sanders case it was actually a triple as there was a combined format then as well, she won all three. For the men's side I think the last guy to do the double was Yoshiyuki Ogata in 2017.

Guy on right is Hareru Nagamori. Just the boulder gold for him. He was a ways off the podium in lead.
>>
How's everyones climbing recently, and cool projects going on?
>>
>>209256
regrowing skin for a couple weeks. i overdid it.
>>
>>209167
>who the fuck set these
Depends on the rock type. Could be the oceans, continental plate collisions, volcanoes etc.
>yes but what about god
Nope. Thats a myth.
>>
>>208516
>where it starts to hurt just to touch holds
Like when your skin becomes thin because a layer is sanded off?
Thats when you use tape and if thats not helping you stop and wait a day for it to regrow. Should regrow naturally too I doubt any product out there accelorates skin growth.
>haven't had a flapper in years
probably because of formation of calluses?
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>>207446
is this even considered a "sport"?
its how you get down from something you climbed
or to get down to where you want to start to climb
You need a harness, a rope, a screwgate carabiner and a figure 8
and to over come your fear
is it hard? No, it's about trusting your gear and keep calm
you need muscle power? No, its all about friction
>>
>>209266
Why not use an ATC instead?
>>
>>209266
Rappelling is not a sport, no. Although it's an important skill to have when rock climbing (which is a sport).
>>
>>209263
>I doubt any product out there accelorates skin growth
There's plenty and I can attest to them. Climbskin, O keef's (and derivatives), hell just some fucking lotion. They all help restore the skin faster than if you would not have used them.

>>209266
>wakes up
>r9k seems quiet this morning
>/fit/ seems quiet this morning
>"huh, I wonder how I'll prove to everyone I'm autistic today"
>Sees /xs/
>"I bet those tards can't have more sex than I don't
>goes on /cg/ - Climbing General
>Sees a dude rappelling
>Brain thinking with gears turning.png
>b-b-b-ut... that's not a SPORT, how can it be extreme?
>Actually fucking types retarded non-post
>Victory.exe
>I bet I taught those virgins a lesson
>goes back to bed with waifu pillow
>Contemplates suicide but never makes that explicit in posts
>"I hope they can help me..."
Oh we can help you boy. Either see a doctor about your inceldom or your suicidal ideation, but either way keep it the fuck off /xs/.
>>
>>209266
are you fucking retarded? It says climbing general RAPPELLING edition, you fucking smooth-brained porn addicted nu-male fucking cunt. Jesus fucking christ why the hell did you even come here to leave that post you fucking lanky twigfucker?
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>I've never been to a gym with a kilterboard or similar

is it fun?
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>>209292
It's pretty good for training but unless you're hyper good, you'll probably be climbing more on the wall anyways. I consider myself a "frequent" user, doing a moonboard session once a week.

Is it fun? No it sucks. All the moves are hard. Your forearms feel like they're being torn to shreds just trying to stay on. The smallest slip in body tension means you fall off. It's fucking amazing desu.
>>
>>209292
it's hard as nails in the beginning, but super fun once you gain sufficient finger strength and learn to hold body tension.
really great to build finger strength and general strength, but it's a very specific style and doesn't always translate directly to other climbing styles, I'd say.
>>
Thoughts on urban bouldering? I think I'll go climb some bridges to save up on gym fees.
>>
>>209312
Indoor climbing fags will do anything but climb actual rock in nature. No wonder some of the worst content I ever seen is from people who make indoor climbing their entire personality
>>
>>209314
Hey bro
>vapes
>blows smoke in your general direction, as if pretending to avoid blowing it in your face but some of it still does
I've been trying this amazing new thing man
>pops another hit at the vape pen
>You see his lips visibly cracked as this man hasn't had water in days
Yeah brahh I've been bouldering with the gang, it's pretty lit
>chuckles even though nothing funny was said
Ye-ha-heah brah it's nice because like, there's no judgement man, people have an open mind, ya'know?
>Proceeds to talk about experiences on drugs and hallicinogens
Why are climbers like this?
>>
>>209312
The trouble with this is that it's harder than you'd imagine to find something with a reasonable difficulty. Either it's trivial or it's impossible. There is lots that's easy and dangerous once you're at guaranteed injury heights if the point is solo death defiance. Drive around your city looking for climbing projects and you will see what i mean. Tons of easy and tons of impossible, little in between.
>>
My urban climbing experience involves mantling up walls with mates to get to secluded spots to drink premix dark and stormies and have teenage d&ms at 2 am. If you want to have fun fucking around in an urban environment get a skateboard.
>>
>>209320
go lead climbing
>>
Last week i met stefano and Megos at my local craig, they both super small and short.
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>>209336
Yes that was my experience attending a world cup.

WHY ARE ALL OF YOU MINIATURE PEOPLE
>>
>>209217
my gym has a program that's like ages 6 to 11 and make no mistake, it's a daycare. Obviously this isn't a normal team kid program... I think. I guess I don't know anything about these programs other than what I see in person.
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>>209292
the novelty wears off after a few weeks or months and then it becomes a normal training tool. If they really were THAT fun and compelling, gyms everywhere wouldn't be >80% commercial set. But in terms of le heckin' improovment, boards are good.
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>>208902
I know at least 10 regulars at BB that climb shirtless, I'm not sure what hours you're going but during afternoons/evenings there's ALWAYS shirtless people?
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>>209353
It makes sense that gyms would vary in the quality of their teams, especially since some gyms just want the extra money and honestly it is really fun for the kids to just fuck around even if they don't practice.

At my gym it seems like it's a mix of both. I was hangboarding once (because I thought it would help me more than climbing), and there were numbers plastered everywhere. The campus board had 6, the dumbells had 10, I was thinking wtf? Turns out, the coaches made a circuit for the kids. Climb 2 boulders, attempt to campus one, then do an L hold for a few seconds before finishing off with some pullups. I thought that was pretty cool to have the kids condition like that.

Sometimes I see the coach of the youth team also focus on beta. They'll have setters set JUST for the youth having themed climbs based on heel hooking and shit. It's obvious not every kid on the team gives a shit, but there are a couple of motivated ones. Those're the kids projecting the V9's in the gym even though they're like fucking 10.
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>>207643

About 40 degrees on the right wave wall, shoes are unparallelsports.com/product/vim/

>>207646
Thank m8, ended up getting it a while back.

>>207648
Brother I failed u, for some reason I can't stay away from that goddamn orange hold, I dabbed again lol
>>
i've been doing mostly bouldering for the past few months and i think it's starting to show in my lead climbing. i think i can't climb lead so hard as i used to, and after a 3 or 4 tries i feel exhausted.

i guess this is normal, anyone has it happened? how important is it to train each kind of climbing separate, and how much should one focus on each?
>>
>>209380
You have to reestablish your endurance that disappears when you exclusively boulder. Gotta at least do an autbelay endureance training session at the end of a boulder day that maintain lead
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>>207582
>there's no fucking reason they couldn't just lower the basketball rim 5cm

Vertical leap is an athletic skill that can be trained.
>>
>>209394
No it can't, not beyond a certain point. Why else would the NFL test for it? Nobody with a 20 inch vert is getting to 30.
>>
Villars Boulder semis are live
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=60Jh-jvbjD4
>>
>>209336
>>209339
like I said in the last thread, I saw shawn rabatou at my gym and that guy has to be literally 5'2"
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>>209394
So is throwing a javelin.
>>
>>209418

>Hannah Meul injured again

This is what skellymaxxing gets you
>>
>>209418
What do we think of the setting, lads?

I'm pretty happy with it. Some very tech-y, body position-dependent climbs, lots of power required and, fuck me, are those actually some crimps on the wall?

M4 is admittedly a bit of 'run along some no-tex' parkour BS with a no-tex hold for good measure but it was worth it to see Manu Cornu clown on the route setters [spoiler] LMAO at turning their entire elaborate boulder into a one-move imitation of Rainbow Rocket [/spoiler].
>>
>>209432
Just watching now. Breddy gud overall. Nice variety. Nothing stands out as absolute horseshit, which is good for an IFSC setting.
>>
Just absolutely smashed through a ~three month 20mm max hang plateau
FEELS great
My body asked me to deload and drop the weight now it's going rapidly back up
Don't even care I had a meh climb

These tendon gains feel so precious

Gonna go have a Guinness now because pints of Guinness make you strong
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>>209418
Uh. Okay. Okay if that british girl doing co commentary with Groom ever gets tired of comp climbing I believe she has a future in lewd ASMR.
>>
has anyone worn or tried on those new La Sportiva Mandala's for bouldering? Curious about the sizing, since there's not much info out there.
>>
Seems every 'good' climber in my gym has been climbing for two years
Some porkies being told I reckon
There is no way they had only been climbing for 8 months when I started
>>
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Can anyone tell me why this wouldn't work for rope soloing? (I'm not intending to do this just an idea I had after watching someone belaying really badly with a revo)
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>>209504
I don’t know what I’m talking about but I’m fairly sure that revo would just slip without any additional force pulling on the belayer’s end. Correct me if I’m wrong.
>>
>>209504
even if you your system in the black works you'd have to climb back up to get your draws
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>>209509
The whole point of the revo is that it locks based on the speed of the rope going through it rather than friction or force on the brake strand.
>>209511
just get them while rappelling down, same as being lowered normally on a sport route
>>
>>209442
The sad truth is that some people will just casually overtake you in this sport and reach heights that you could only dream of in a handful of years. They will float up your lifetime projects without trying whilst you grind away for years in futility, fingerboarding to reach a level of strength and power they probably had when they started. For instance, Aidan Roberts climbed his first V13 at the age of 16, only 3 years after starting climbing. It is what it is nigga
>>
>>209504
>anon takes a fall
>revo locks
>
>>
>>209526
The funniest wedgie of all time
>>
>>209517
Yeah, but I saw a video where a dude tested the no-hands situation out on a pulley system and the revo slipped worse than the grigri. I can’t recall the name of the video but the guy’s channel is called Hard is Easy, if you want to see for yourself.
>>
>>209528
My point is that you need to tug the brake strange to release the revo once it has locked. If you fall on this system you would be stuck.
>>
>>209544
I know. You'd be stuck in mid air with the rope pulling at your ass. Hence, the funniest wedgie of all time. Jesus fucking christ, gain some reading comprehension, you sound as stupid as the one who drew that bullshit.
>>
>>209522
''''v13'''''
>>
>>209557
Have you never hung in a harness before? There's no wedgie. It doesn't pull at your ass. I assumed that you had this basic knowledge, in which case your comment is nonsensical.
>>
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kino
>>
Bouldering later rejuvenated by that max hang breakthrough
I'm convinced I have high grade overhang in me
>>
Who is this message for? You're climbing V3's and you act like anyone should be impressed. Let us know when you're flashing V7 outdoors.
>>
>>209575
>only cares about grades
there's more in climbing than ego, you'll learn when you get older
>>
Starting to notice more bellends at bouldering
Maybe it's because I'm getting better at naturally becoming more 'amongst them'
But there is some twats. I mean, it is bouldering so what do you expect, I think we all knew what we were getting ourselves into. Also wish they would stop climbing shirtless for no reason
>>
>>209576
So true
Personal journey and breakthroughs are important
>>
>>209581
>amateurs, I swear
Ahh, so you've hit v12? Because that's about where the pro line is, everyone is an amateur below that
>>
>>209581
Cool, post your awesome V12 climb then!

Also holy fuck the Kilterboard ist soft as fuck, I flashed 2 7A's and they felt really easy.
Could probably climb 7B or higher there, while I only climb 6C in the gym
>>
>>209590
>>209586
You're both faggot speds. stop clogging up this board with your homosexual flirting ritual
>>
>>209592
Ok V0 gumby
>>
>>209592
>Faggot
>sped
>homosexual
Keep coping you fucking nigger loser. Jesus christ, imagine writing insults at the same level as a child on their second day. You're embarrassing yourself. Either improve and call people nigger or kys. Fucking newfags, I swear.
>>
>>209595
lmao at you trying to take the high ground. We're expected to tolerate your pointless constant idiotic negativity but noooooo we can't call you a fag for it that's immature. Grow up you fucking loser.
>>
>>209597
>calling someone a nigger
>high ground
Sounds like you're just mad your climbing skills can't get you there, nigger
>>
Money can't buy tendon gains
>>
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*Silently builds 20mm max hang strength *
The redditors at my local don't know
They had their turn (it was grim), now Internet savvy 4channers are here to take climbing to the next level
>>
>>209590
>Kilterboard ist soft as fuck
true. moonboard is the climbing man's board
>>
>>209608
>>209437
>>208812
>>208756
Can you actually produce results rather than try and grab people's attention? Brother, everyone's fingers are getting stronger all the time. If you're going to track your progress, explain your current climbing grade (Flash), current project grade, and your bodyweight/height.
>>
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Anime climbing fans there is a 2D girl for you
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>he thinks his fingers simply get stronger by repeating some dire v4 dyno reddit thing
>>
>>209619
To be fair, it kinda will REEEEEEE
>>
>>209620
no
This is why normies don't break v5
they retard
>>
If I walk up this indoor slab a bit
Literally bum the wall
It will definitely make me a stronger climber
>>
>>209599
Jej
>>
>>209621
I project V6, eat my ass REEE. But I don't hangboard, I focus more on body tension n shit, it's helped me more. At this point, I can tell my fingers don't limit me because it's rare I find a climb that makes my fingers tired. Whenever I *do* find a climb like that, I just project it over a few sessions until they don't feel tired ; boom, stronger fingers. Campus boarding looks cool as fuck, but I don't think my fingers are ready for that. Im gonna do that once I'm flashing V7s
>>
>ass
V6 in San Francisco or houston is literally v3 in Yorkshire
You don't climb shit
>>
>>209628
>b-b-b-ut... there's more to climbing
Not from either of those places, and my gym grades hard fucker. A v3 at my gym is a V4 at other gyms. That makes this V6 a V 10. Eat my ass
>>
Anyone have pain near their A1 right above their palm? doesn't hurt to climb or crimp, but whenever I grab a beer mug it fucking bothers me. Inb4 a redditard tells me to stop climbing.
>>
>>209633
could be just some repetitive strain niggle. only help for that is to rest it. you can still climb just take it easier with that hand for a while.
>>
>>209634
I rested for a week, gonna do some shit on the wall tomorrow. fuck this sport.
>>
>>209628
>>209629
Burger grades are soft as fuck, go to Japan, France or Germany
>>
>>209643
or you know just climb outside
>>
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>rappelling edition
>>
>>209643
I want to.
>>209646
>or you know just climb outside
Can't. how many times do I have to fucking say this.
>>
>>209646
true
>>
>>209649
Man shut the fuck up this is /xg/ climbing outside > inside. If you can't handle the bantz get the fuck out. Or a adopt a tripcode, but I swear to god if you become a tripfag we're going to kick you in the face repeatedly
>>
>>209661
>we
speak for yourself V3 shitter
>>
Posting one of my easier climbs, boulder should be around 6B/6B+ (V4 I think?).
Didn't film any of the harder ones I tried yet and I'm still mostly stuck at 6C/6C+ anyways (should be V5?)
Also sorry for being bald, wasn't my choice
>>
>>209674
have you tried wearing a beanie?
>>
>>209675
No, I'd rather kill myself
>>
>>209674
Looks like a fun problem. Nice one, m8
>>
>tfw hangboarding on a steel doorframe in my shitty commie block apartment
>>
>>209633
have you tried not drinking beer?
>>
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>>209738
grim
>>
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>>209740
still won lead individual AND boulder/lead combined at this thing tho
>>
>>209679
Thanks man, and yes was a really nice boulder
>>
>>209674
Great job man, especially the heel hooks and swapping of that!
>>
>>209647
Canyoneering or is that a top rope line?
>>
>>209746
Thanks!
But regarding heel hooks I really want to try the Instinct VSR or S after the Skwama since the heel is 'strange'. The big sturdy ball heel of the Skwama is sometimes really cool but sometimes doesn't stick at all.
>>
>>209738
la spooky scary skeletona
>>
>>209544
>>209526
that's what the red rope is for, so you have something to come back to the ground on
>>
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>>209674
Kek, onions wojak spotted. You know there's memes about you bro? Wear a wig faggot.
Picrel
>>208730
>>
>>209758
Okay so let's say you fall and the device locks. You get back on the wall and unload the device. At this point, there's a bunch of slack in the system and the device may have unlocked, or maybe it hasn't. You start climbing again, higher this time, and then the slack runs out. Device is still locked. Now you need to downclimb to the last bolt and do a single-bolt rappel to the base to fix your device, and then start all over.

Or just put the belay device on your harness so that you can control the amount of slack and unlock it immediately after a fall.
>>
>>209772
>Wear a wig faggot.
Sorry, not insecure enough for a wig
>>
>>209747
rappelling down after climbing the route. it's a 160ft rappel I guess... two pitches.
>>
>>209780
that sounds less painful to deal with than regular rope soloing (the takeaway from this is that rope soloing is stupid in general)
>>
Bump Limit Reached. New thread:
>>209791
>>
>>209792
FUCK OFF

the last /cg/ thread hasn't even died yet! >>202440. wait for page 9 at least.
>>
>>209792
Kys newfag
>>
>>209792
God dammit you fucking double gorilla
>>
>>209831
This man is gonna make a million climbing generals.
>>
>>209833
Noooo
>>
>>209647
how the heck does rock like that form
>>
>>209905
Fracture patterns forms from the cooling and contracture of igneous rock, I think.
>>
>>209919
I guess that makes sense. It's so different to anything we have around here.
>>
>>209792
lol get rekt
but repeating my question: is kilterboard or hangboard more reddit?
>>
Can Midtbo fuck off already? He’s a fucking shitter loser
>>
>>209944
>kilterboard

kiteboard is the weakest of the boards, do you even have to ask?
>>
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Koper starts tomorrow!
>>
Anyone gonna moonboard today?
>>
>>209795
>>209802
>>209831
>>209833
>>209944
All of you can go fucking kill yourselves. All I tried to do was make a new thread to make shit more convenient. I'm not some chronically online loser who keeps track of this shit, I just wanted to fucking help who gives a fuck you could've just not used the new thread.

I hope you all get fucking cancer. I hope your parents get fucking aids. I hope your friends abandon you. I hope you're left to die alone you fuckers. Jesus fucking christ. I fucking hate you all.

In climbing related news - I think the GriGri is the best.
>>
>>209975
Big names on the start list, ey?
>>
>>210002
A few. Janja is on the list. Otherwise women's is a bit thin. It's thin enough that big winner from youth champs, Jennifer Buckley, could take silver or bronze. Men's is better. Sorato and Toby are in. Dohyun Lee, too. Koper is lead only.
https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/news/ifsc-world-cup-series-2024-resumes-in-koper-slovenia
>>
>>210000
>massive retarded faggot
>thinks the GriGri is best
yup checks out
>>
>>210016
It literally is. The only thing I don't use it for is lead, I use ATC. Kill yourself. You're the faggot.
>>
City Bloc absolutely mogs the fuck out of every other bouldering gym in leeds
>>
>>210000
>all this rage
>quads
>still unable to use nigger as an insult
Welcome to 4chan anon, some of the hidden rules don't make sense until you've been here a while
>>
>>210020
Not for lead, so you use the GriGri for toprope? Or something else?
t. boulderfag who lead climbs only a handful of times a year
>>
only oldfags can't admit the grigri to be the best belay device
>inb4 but muh trad double ropes
>>
Love post monster bouldering sesh muscle ache
Best pain in the world. Pain that heals. Don't even mind it disrupting my sleep a bit. So much better than gym DOMS
>>
It's like being in bed with a lover. The same way you don't mind that disrupting your sleep a bit
>>
>>210007
>Otherwise women's is a bit thin.
I wouldn't call 9 Olympians thin.
>>
>>210034
I’ve yet to encounter a fat olympic climber.
>>
grigri is obviously best unless you're british in which case it only isn't because they've not made a double rope grigri yet
>>
>>210000
>>210020
>>210025
>>210049
mindbroken grigri fag tell me what's so great about it
>>
>>210050
it has a built in retard check, if someone can't use it you shouldn't let them belay you
>>
>>210051
Some people still can't belay even WITH it. I got my first ropeburn on toprop e when some retard gave me a fucking lead's worth of slack and I tried to do a move dynamically. Holy fucking shit I must've fallen like 5 feet. and the rope got caught around my neck. Mark lasted a week. Never let that guy belay me again. It was also one of those faggots who's uptight about rules, you know? The type who's like, "Ohh Anon, you should belay closer to the wall like the gym staff say/Ohh anon, I didn't say I was clipping why did you give me slack *because I saw you about to clip you fucking retard*/(after clipping into 6 anchors) ohhh anon, it's not a good idea to step too far from the wall"

If you are ever with one of those fuckers AVOID. They're only spouting shit to sound smart and have no fucking clue how to belay. Also on this subject - why do gyms require you to be within 3-4 feet of the wall while lead belaying? The rule makes no sense, especially on massively overhung walls where you can't see shit. Going further from the wall lets you take up more slack so much faster, idk why gyms have a problem with it.
>>
>>210069
>why do gyms require you to be within 3-4 feet of the wall while lead belaying?
where? no rules like that here but I can understand it if the weight difference is too high
>>
>>210079
Oh my gym chain requires it regardless. Fyi, the weight difference between us was insignificant because I (the heavier climber) was the one belaying. Also, there's tools you can use to make the impact of weight negligible. My gym has the rule because, "Durrr, we're pro trans".

Name ONE other sport that raises trans flags as you walk into the training center. I'll wait. Fuck this sport and fuck trans people.
>>
>>210080
>My gym has the rule because, "Durrr, we're pro trans".
wtf how does that even make sense???
>>
>>210080
>Name ONE other sport that raises trans flags as you walk into the training center.
oh forgot about that one: HEMA
on the other side it's questionable if hema's even a sport when actual fencing exists
>muh deadly sword master
>>
>>210069
Best to be close to the wall at the start of the climb to avoid extra slack in the system. It can also be a bad thing if the climber is heavier than the belayer because they can get pulled off balance.

>>210080
>My gym has the rule because, "Durrr, we're pro trans"
...what? Did they say that, or do you just attribute everything you don't like to trans people?

On the topic, I had the worst belay of my life last weekend. It was a multi-pitch and my belayer was too afraid to let go of the wall so he was only using one hand on the grigri. I would climb a few feet and the grigri would lock, then he would press the release and I would climb a few more feet before it locked again, and repeat. Then he couldn't untie his clove hitch and just left the carabiner on the rope so that it got stuck on every quickdraw on the way up. Pretty incredible.
>>
>>210034
The article failed to mention several notables on the women's side. Now that qualifications are up we have the full list. Pilz and Seo, for the starters. A couple of the younger ones like Annie Sanders, Erin McNeice. Mei Kotake continues to do well on her late comeback out of nowhere, qualifying in fourth going in to semis.
>>
>>210069
for the belayer, staying close to the wall is very important at the start of the route to avoid falls on top of the tensed rope. the climber can lose his balls
>>
>>210098
No shit dumbass. But if they're already 30 feet in the fucking air and clipped into 5 anchors, there's no reason not to back up to help take up slack, especially if you notice them struggling. Good belaying involves good movement with your feet, knowing when to approach to help give slack, and when to quickly take it up. Kill yourself. You're the faggot.
>>
>>210086
>Best to be close to the wall at the start of the climb
Where did I say that this was happening at the beginning of the climb?
> It can also be a bad thing if the climber is heavier
can you fucking read retard? I literally said I was the heavier climber. Jesus fucking christ everyone on here's a fucking trannydefender.
>>210083
>...what? Did they say that, or do you just attribute everything you don't like to trans people?
To the idiots who actually believe that the rule is justified because of transgenderism, I sincerely hope you get cancer. Obviously the rule is there for a different reason, I just wanted to say it's stupid just like the pro trans shit is. Jesus fucking christ is everyone on here autistic? Do you not understand sarcasm?
>>
>>210100
>>210099
Learning how to control your emotions is an important part of being an adult, anon
>>
>>210101
FUCK YOU. You have no fucking clue the shit I have to deal with on a daily fucking basis. GEt cancer. Get fucking aids. Learn what real suffering is like you fucking piece of shit. How dare some faggot like you on the internet who has no fucking concept of what suffering is like have the audacity to tell me I have no fucking emotional control. You need to drop dead before you get someone on the rock climbing wall killed with your smug fucking attitude. You remind me of this girl who approached me and complained I "stole her problem" on the bouldering wall because I was standing "too close to it". fucking christ. Just get fucking cancer. I'll wait.
>>
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why does every general I join eventually have these angry autistic arguments over nothing?
>>
>>210101
>>210102

Virgin functional adult vs Chad bpd rageposter
>>
>>210103
Because nobody in this world can learn to fucking agree. Jesus fucking christ I make a claim and EVERYBODY is against me. Not one FUCKING person can emptazhie and be like, "yeah, what a weird rule" everyone instead assumes IM IN THE FUCKING WRONG, and then is like, "well anon, you actually SHOULD be close to the wall when they're low to the ground" COMPLETELY ignoring the part where I said the dude was clipped into 6 anchors in my original post.

I'm not the fucking problem. YOU RETARDS ARE. I hope your parents get cancer.
>>
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Roasties are seething at Megos hahahahahahahahahahhaa https://www.reddit.com/r/climbergirls/comments/1f1muyc/alex_megos_young_girlfriend/
>>
>>210103
this is what lack of outside climbing does to a poor soul.
for the love of god anons please touch rock, even if you have to drive 3 hours go now and sleep in a tent till sunday
>>
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>>210103
>>210107
The climbing general on /out/ is actually quite nice.
>>
>>210109
Yet you still post here faggot. GYM BROS, RISE UP
>>
>>210106
God I can't stand americans and their """morals"""
>>
>>210099
>>210102
>>210105
calm down, wtf is wrong with you?

and to add something to this thread, does anyone already know if the la sportiva shoes will change in function, form or feel now that they're pfas free?
>>
>>210123
I bet you're a transgender bitch just trying to join the collective. I hope your parents get cancer. I hope you have to sit by them in the hospital while you're fucking sobbing like a pathetic bitch watching them waste away to become corpses. You make me sick.

To make this climbing related - Smearing indoors is also not allowed by my gym's setters. Not that you get in trouble for doing it, but they discourage it. Why? Because they support the LGBTQ agenda, so they have to incorporate a bunch of shitty rules.
>Not allowed to climb barefooted or with street shoes
>Liquid chalk was the only type of chalk allowed but they repealed this finally
>Women Wednesdays mean bitches get discounts and I get jack shit.
>>
>>210125
>Not allowed to climb barefooted or with street shoes
good
>Liquid chalk was the only type of chalk allowed but they repealed this finally
for air quality I can understand but it still sucks, liquid chalk is ass
>Women Wednesdays mean bitches get discounts and I get jack shit.
sue them for discrimination then? or stop being a little bitch?
>>
>>210126
>good
How?
>for air quality I can understand but it still sucks, liquid chalk is ass
FINALLY. Someone agrees with me. Jesus christ. But it's not enough, no... because the agreement isn't 100% so it doesn't count. What do you mean "air quality?" Chalk is not only chemically inert (most of it is just fucking magnesium carbonate), the particles themselves are often far too large to ever make it into the lungs. So uh... no, it doesn't affect air quality, and as punishment I hope someone you love dies.
>sue them for discrimination then
It's not about the unequal treatment, it's about the REASON for it. Why does it have to be about women? About minorities? About trans people? Why can't I just climb my rainbow holds without being reminded of the shitty politics in this country? God damnit. Fuck you.
>>
>>210123
>does anyone already know if the la sportiva shoes will change in function, form or feel now that they're pfas free?
is it the rubber or the leather/synthetic leather they are changing? I really doubt it matters to most people if the synthetic uppers get more or less stretchy. cool that they are going pfas free thought that shit is fucking terrible for the environment and every living being on the planet
>>
>>210121
it's literally only retards who use reddit and women that behave like this
>>
>>210131
So 98% of people who use gyms
>>
>>210132
Um, kind stranger? (Thank you btw), you should keep in mind that um, you're offending people. Have you heard of privilege? Coming from an underrepresented minority combination of Thai, Mexican, Puerto-rican, and ethiopian ancestry, I have to remind you that, as a cis-heteronormative, classist, white male you're doing all other genders (yes there are more than just 2) a disservice.
^ This
^ 100% this, I agree
^I wasn't going to post here, but yeah just wanted to say I agree
^SUPER AGREE GUYS
^Have some gold
>>
>>210134
Upvoted.
>>
>>210119
rise up to get the dick your sitting on out of your ass, gym bros more like gym FAGS.
>>
What's getting climbed tomorrow?
7a
You're done out here
Anglos
>>
I would absolutely love to stick them all on a stake
>>
What do you think of Matt Grooms commentary?
>>
>>210153
I believe i am slated to strap a rocking chair to the roof of my elderly mother's van tomorrow. I have old rocking chair that used to belong to her. Mom says she wants it back, says she wants to refinish it. I say okay. I am told she has hired a boy at her apartment complex to unload it. That's all. Skin regrowth is still ongoing. I am total recovery not some thin layer I'm going to scrape through in an hour again.
>>
>>210157
He is inoffensive and he obviously cares. Despite being a bit weak on comp climbing technical knowledge I find him... fine. I liked the guy he replaced slightly better.
>>
>>210129
>is it the rubber or the leather/synthetic leather they are changing
no clue but I think it's only the leather

>cool that they are going pfas free
100%
>>
>>210157
I wish he was a bit more attentive (for example he couldn't work out why women kept getting called down in the Euro champs even though the black tape was right there, I think the director even showed a replay of someone's foot crossing the tape and Matt still couldn't work it out) and a bit less of a retard when it comes to basic maths (I'm not expecting him to become a number crunching savant but when it's just a matter of adding a boulder score to a lead score anyone who graduated from high school should be able to work what hold an athlete needs to reach to jump into the lead). I'm also a little sick of how often he repeats the same catchphrases every comp, he needs more things to say.
On the other hand though, I like him. How enthusiasm is infectious.
>>
>>210171
>I'm also a little sick of how often he repeats the same catchphrases every comp, he needs more things to say.
after several events which are basically the same thing over and over again the commentaries get stale. this happens in all sports, i think it's inevitable
>>
>>210172
It would help if they had a permanent second guy. At best Groom gets one of the climbers who bombed out of qualifying to help call semis and finals with him.
>>
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>>210050
You already know whats so great about it but what you might not know is that it's also a progress capture that you can release under load for hauling and it eliminates about half the steps vs an atc if you have to rescue the leader.
>inb4 i only climb inside
>>
>>210132
eh maybe 65% in a non-city gym. Youre probably right in a city gym
>>
Yh bro we heard you like climbing
So how about we stick some weird disc thing onto a dyno and call it a v8


So done with every gym in leeds that isn't city bloc
>>
I would never go to a gym that bans magnesium carbonate. some of you are incredibly cucked pussies.
>>
>>210184
>eh maybe 65% in a non-city gym.
I only know a handful of non-city climbing gyms but the people climbing there are either families, young athletes or old guys.
But even the city gyms are only around 25% leftie dykes, soibois and troons. Most people there just climb with their friends and keep to themselves
>>
>>210174
I understood some of those words (I'm ESL and only climbing single pitch)
>inb4 i only climb inside
No I actually climb outside semi-regularly but mostly bouldering and a few easy lead single pitches with my wife and son
>>
>>210198
>bans magnesium carbonate.
Literally what? Who does this? Dont they want to vacuum / wash holds?
>>
>>210173
I actually think this is the best part. Considering how long Matt has been commentating and climbing, hes sometimes a bit ignorant about movement. So the insight from the atheltes is quite nice, if they know how to communicate well.

Also Koper lead final is LIVE right now
>>
>>210231
right, because you would never need to pay a minimum wage worker to vacuum or wash holds if you switched your gym to liquid only.

those dumb fucking cunts.
>>
>>210102
Not reading all this shite. Pull yourself together, you princess.
>>
>>210240
This dude's going through some shit. This is what happens when you get molested. This is why we need the death penalty for child perverts. Jesus fucking christ.
>>
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>>210174
>chilling in a cave in the face of a giant pillar of rock 250ft in the air, with a view like that
Monkey Face is the coolest shit ever
>>
>>210234
You dont need to vacuum even halft as much if no one was using powdered chalk. But I've never heard of any gyms banning powder.
>>
>>210232
>Also Koper lead final is LIVE right now
Men's was good. Women's was iffy with not great separation. I guess Toby is just going to start winning a lot now? Sorato is having his mandatory precocious teenage phase of lost confidence now, apparently. Seems like every junior who jumps straight in to seniors at a very young age goes through this phase.
>>
>>210102
Jesus man, use all this energy for something useful. Like hating kikes and niggers.
>>
>>210251
you haven't read the last hundred posts of this thread then
>>
>>210430
So for hygiene reasons?
>>
>>210442
I guess for health reasons so their customers don't get lung cancer or copd (dunno if you can actually get that from chalk)
But not having to climb in a thick and foggy cloud of chalk does feel much better tbqh
>>
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I want to lead climb, but am not sure how much slack I should give to my buddies to avoid short roping them
>>
>>210461
It depends on the situation. You need to get a feel for it by belaying. If you feel that they are tugging the rope while climbing when not clipping, you are definitely short roping them. And they will definitely bitch about it during or after climbing if you were short roping them.
>>
>>210461
If they are close to the ground then micromanage the slack. Once they've got a few clips just give them a bunch.
>>
>>210449
>(dunno if you can actually get [COPD or fucking Lung Cancer] from chalk)
Hey. Pre-med here. You don't. Lungs get rid of particles that aren't supposed to be there due to cilia. The stupid things you learned about in bio? Basically, most foreign debris won't even get close to your lungs, and the shit that does is almost always harmless. You're always inhaling dust and dead skin cells by virtue of being alive.

PM2.5 particles are a different story since they're small enough to penetrate the defenses and large enough to carry toxic shit/cause damage, but those particles are literally always present to some extent in the ambient atmosphere, and are only increased substantially by burning/fires, which is why we look at air quality.

Now, chalk and all of it's varieties are made of magnesium carbonate, with a few random harmless additives. Not only is this shit never getting into your lungs (most of the dust is far too large to ever make it past the upper respiratory tract), even if it did, it would dissolve since it's a soluble matrix. Literally adding water makes it decompose instantly. And since none of the additives would get into your lungs, there is literally no risk.

Why do I bring all of this up? Because you, anon, are a fucking autistic retard who doesn't fucking know jack shit about the world, and neither do the gyms. You're just a S-O-Y cuck who happily accepts gym rules because you're a sheep. The reason the no powder chalk rule exists is because the pro-trans gym staff are lazy. That's it. Fucking use your god damn brain. If climbers REALLY had increased risk of copd/lung cancer, it'd be fucking obvious by now. You are a retard. You, and everyone who blindly accepts gym rules should kill themselves.
>>
>>210480
>Busting out science to win a 4chan argument
Chill dude. The anon you're responding to is a retard, but you look like a huge faggot. There's no winner here. We all gotta climb at the pro-trans gyms. It's over bro... it never even started.
>>
>>210481
I won't chill the fuck out because I'm fucking right. Time and again I see retards try and justify things gyms do, why? Because they're fucking redditors, and as soon as redditors break rules they get all uppity.
>Anon, you can't change lanes if the line is solid
>Anon, you shouldn't cheat on your wife/girlfriend because it's baaadddddddd (And I can't do it so it makes me seethe)
>Anon, you shouldn't drive past the yellow light because it means SLOW DOWN
>Anon, you HAVE to recycle otherwise the world will end
>Anon, it's best to use a bicycle rather than a car
>Anon, powdered chalk can damage the lungs
That's how that retarded advice comes off as. I'm fucking sick of these fucking retards saying this shit, then proceeding to say,
>Trans rights are human rights
Jesus fucking christ I hate you all, kill yourselves. On a climbing related note - Gri Gris are pretty cool yo.
>>
>>210481
grow up
>>
Actually wait you're both fucking whiny nerd neck yourselves both of you.
>>
No wonder people hate climbers
You faggots are absolutely insufferable
>>
>>210496
Go back to /fit/ you chonk monkey, and bitch about why you can't get laid because you're a chud instead of a stud, before proceeding to go on /r9k/ and bitch about why women are the problem. Fuck outta here. As retarded as some of this shit is, at least it's related to climbing. You're just some fat schizo with social problems. Kill yourself.
>>
>>210497
Wow you rock wranglers just can't behave normally
>>
>>210499
Thank you kind stranger. Upvoted.
>>
>>210481
The initial powder ban was because liquid chalk would disinfect the skin and add a level of protection for covid. This was alteast the arguement gyms were making for staying open during lock down. No one was busting out
>Trans rights are human rights
We already had this discussion. Now we are talking about CHALK.
>>
>>210510
Meant to reply to this bullshit here
>>210488
>>
Posted some climbing into the sport thread on /wsg. But eveeryone is more interested in Emmas feet.
>>
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If I want to get into trad climbing how much should I be realistically looking at to pay for lessons?
>>
>>210526
I took a two day trad/multi-pitch course for $350 + tip. Well worth it.
>>
>>210534
how many classes would you have to take for you to be proficient, or at the very least confident enough to know what you're doing?
>>
>>210538
One is enough to start leading trad routes and gaining experience, which will snowball.
>>
>>210526
Get a lesson or even two. You're spending good money to make sure you're taught by someone who (probably) isn't a dumbass. The basic skills you should be familiar with (and not necessarily master in only 2 sessions) are: making a rappel station, gear placement of CAMs and nuts, and making a basic anchor.

After that, go on facebook and look for trad-dads who let people follow. The best place to start is to find your local crag's facebook page and just see if people are inviting you. Trad dads like followers. Follow as often as possible. Focus more on getting as much experience as possible. Whenever you can, ask if you can do X skill you want to practice. Realistically, it's gonna take weeks/months to begin to feel confident, but it's a lifelong endeavor so it's worth it in the end.
>>
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>>210563
If you can find a trad dad to mentor you then that will be the safest and most informative way to gain experience. But if you can't do that, you can also just find an easy multi-pitch and somebody stupid enough to follow you and start climbing. I climbed a 10 pitch 5.7 a week after my first trad lesson with another guy who had never placed a cam in his life. We were not perfectly safe at all times, but it was easy terrain. I would do it again.
>>
>>209633
Hey guys, bit of an update. My finger started to feel better, but then after my last session it started to get a bit worse and I don't know why. Does anyone have experience with A1 pulley pain? This is weird because climbing doesn't bother it, pullups/chinups do. Jugs bother it. Crimps don't. So idk how I should handle this.

Today I just got 7lbs of rice and poured it into a bucket so I could start doing rehab exercises. I'll do it once or twice a day. Until then I'll just climb once/twice a week. Again, I hate this sport, it sucks that because my wittle finger huwrts, I have to do this shit. Fuck climbing. But then again, maybe someone's dealt with this before?
>>
>>210526
My local mountaineering club does a 3 month trad course. You have to know how to climb outside already and climb at least 5.9 indoor. check if you have any in your area
>>
>>210496
>insufferable
hell yeah
Were you considering sending your kid into this sport? your own progeny? Your own flesh and blood? were you hoping he'd get tough? Be considered cool? That the local football team isn't going to corner him in the group shower, and deliver load after load down his pink butthole? That they aren't going to treat him like a woman, and use every hole like a cumdumpster, and leave him in the locker room with fluids leaking out all his orfices? that's he's not going to return home, you'll ask him about his day, and with cum leaking out of his asshole, he'll lie and say "Yes, daddy, I'm so grateful you taught me climbing instead of some normal sport!"
Fuck you nigger, climbing is the refuge of the bullied, that's why when he becomes an adult climber, after a couple fo years, he'll chop his dick off, and you'll lose your son for a daughter no man will ever love, save a /wowg/ poster who needs a healslut.
Not only are we insufferable, we got the best shitposters in all of /xs/. Climbing ability? Training routines? Fuck that, Imma shitpost on you till the day you quit, welcome to /cg/, nothing of value is here
>>
>>210706
Weird fantasy you got there, m8.
>>
>>210706
Very strange obsession with homosexuality and trannies
>>
>>210706
This schizo's been posting here for awhile now. He's some /r9k/ incel with a huge fantasy for getting raped in high school. Other posters have encouraged this dude to seek professional help, only to be met with even more graphic fantasies from this dude. He's probably going to be a pedophile.

Anon, please get help. Your issues are (probably) fixable. Therapists/Psychiatrists can be found by looking at your health insurance's website if you live in the US. If you can afford to climb indoors, you can afford seeking help. Things can get better man.
>>
>>210727
>two posts
>a while
lel
>>
>>210109
I've climbed there. It is mostly beginner routes which was great because I was a beginner at that time.
>>
>>210647
>local mountaineering club
how do you find one? Facebook group, local gym, what?
>>
>People roasted that one anon for making a new climbing thread
>This one is as dead as a fucking rock
>>210781
Yeah just go on facebook.

I hope you all kill yourselves and get cancer and your parents get cancer. I hope you watch your loved ones die slow, painful deaths as they forget who you are. I hope your role-models get castrated. I fucking hate you, and wish for nothing but for my suffering to be transferred onto you assholes. If I were god, I'd make your lives a living hell. I fucking hate you. You deserve to suffer, not me.
>>
What the fuck is with those normie mongs who finger the hangboard with their weight on the ground
Not even hanging
>>
>>210781
Seems like a lot of climbing stuff happens on facebook.

>>210830
What's so special about exactly 100% bodyweight?
>>
>>210816
You’re not suffering, you little bitch.
>>
>>210838
>What's so special about exactly 100% bodyweight?
Quite a lot
They are doing this off fat 20mm edge not small edges
It pisses me off they just stand there hopping up and down off the ground fingering the hangboard
It's not doing anything. In fact I see as many normoids doing this as actually hanging
>>
No to be honest I see more normoids fingering the hangboard with their feet on the ground, then I see normies hanging
Absolutely retarded species
>>
>>210857
>>210858
if you think loading your fingers with, say, 70% of your body weight does nothing at all, you are the idiot.
especially during warm up you should slowly build it up. leaving feet on the ground is perfectly reasonable for this.
>>
>>210830
Nice warm up. Gives feedback on how the fingers and forarms feel on the day.
>>
>>210857
>Fat 20mm edge
I feel like you must be 5 feet tall if you think 20mm is big. Fuck you. I can barely hang off the 18mm edge my gym has for longer than 5 seconds. My record is 7 seconds.
>>
>>210874
You can hold onto smaller things as your climbing ability improves. For instance, using the footholds as handholds and hanging from a 10mm for extended periods of time.
>>
>>210879
With footholds, 10mm is hard as fuck but doable. But without footholds? Jesus christ I can't even imagine the strength required to hold off edges less than 10mm. I know it's possible but would take years of more training for me to do a feat like that.

I'm talking about pure bw hangboarding. I also heard that 20mm and up is better for building finger strength, and using edges smaller than that doesn't do as much for finger strength, it just helps neural recruitment and makes you generally better at holding smaller edges. I thought that was interesting. It's not like I plan to do weighted hangs buuut... I might? I definitely feel my fingers getting stronger on the moonboard, but I feel that kilterboard is better for training raw fingerstrength and moonboard is better for training forearms/footwork.
>>
>>210866
Simply don't believe this
>>
>>210866
Yeah, if I have no easy boulders to warm up nearby I also like to use the hangboard with feet still on the ground.
For finger training I still prefer system boards especially the moon and kilter board
>>
I took a week off from climbing to help my A1 pulley. I failed a V3. What the fuck is wrong with me? I literally started crying and just went home after a 15 minute session. How do you cope with the fact that you'll never climb V10? I want to kill myself
>>
You are now aware that Japan's national kids bouldering cup has higher effort production than IFSC Youth World Championships.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XQNBoYIug5o
>>
>>210942
there's more to climbing than grade chasing, especially indoors, go outside and just enjoy yourself anon
>>
>>210950
How can I enjoy myself? My finger hurts. I can't even climb shit. My friends, and I cannot overstate this, are better climbers than me and seem to have no issues progressing. I'm the retard going on reddit.com/r/climbharder, watching all the training videos, and STILL am plateauing. What the fuck is wrong with me? What am I doing wrong? I fucking hate myself. How can you possibly have fun knowing that you're climbing less than V5? You are a bitch if you think climbing less than V5 is worthwhile. All this training. God. It's been 2 months since my last V5 ascent, why are V4's still fucking hard, how can I keep getting humbled by beginner level shit. Jesus fucking christ

I watched these two highschoolers joke around about how "bad they were" and I saw one of them CAMPUS my v5 project. I want to kill myself. What is wrong with me.
>>
>>210954
Do you want advice baiter?
>>
>>210957
I want to know what the fuck I'm doing wrong.
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>>210958
Well, what are you doing other than making posts that seem like bait?
>>
>>210954
>Caring about grades
Lol. Lmao.

I have never checked the grade of a single climb in my life.
>>
>>210954
>this is how grade-babies actually think
>>
>>210942
>>210954
I'm the guy who made the post about the A1 pulley you fucking retard. Why the fuck are you pretending to be me and then bitching about grades? Unless you (or anyone) has advice about finger rehab, fucking leave my god.
>>
tfw paramedic
tfw I had to stretcher some girl out of a bouldering gym yesterday
tfw emergency docs think she has a spinal fracture

This is why I only lead climb, lads.
>>
>>210986
In my experience only time will heal those fingers. If you have a real injury it’s gonna take about 1-2 months to start to recover. Shit to hear but if you come into the gym and when warming up try to load every individual finger with some weight and you feel pain it’s not a good idea to pull hard on it at all.

And assuming you are a beginner I personally wouldn’t try to climb easy grades while focusing on improving technique or something like that. At maximum just do weight training.

I also personally felt that doing no hangs for some time after the finger getting better is something worth doing for rehab purposes.
>>
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Some time ago on this board someone told me height wouldn't be an issue. Thats fake news. I'm 5'1" female, some problems are plain impossible. I've been to a bouldering gym about 30 times in the past year and a half, whenever i needed a shower. Many of those holds are just a few inches out of reach. Extremely infuriating to watch other people do it like its nothing but i need to jump to get a proper hold. Or do it in a way that would never occur to me because i could not reach that hold securely, or straight up skip holds because they can just reach the next one past it. These are beginners routes, v2 v3. And I was staring at them wondering if it was not utilising my shoes properly (I use my own gym shoes instead of rentals because those don't fit), then i watch others just do it, they don't need to traction the wall at all, and I realize that the idea was retarded because I needed another leg to stand on basically and with how sheer it was the foot would slip inside the shoe and be impossible. So short of a one-armed muscle up and often not even that is going to fix the fact that some holds are just barely out of reach if youre short as fuck.
A memorable one is a small boost i needed, literally an inch away from a proper grip, near the very top of a route, with a flat hold, I faceplanted for that one. I can see the routes are designed for the hard stuff down low but they don't design for dwarfs. On seperate occasions I used my chin or my elbow to properly reach. but much of the time it's just over. So don't lie to people, it's incredibly demoralizing, but I still need my showers.
>>
>>210942
>caring about v10
Sure, the gym kids and wannabe pros act like it's a big deal, but when you talk to actual professionals, they don't give a shit
https://frictionlabs.com/blog/why-climbing-v10-is-arbitrary-and-other-esoteric-thoughts-by-will-anglin
Can't wait for all the niggers to come out of the woodwork and say they know more than one of the guys who built the tension board
>hurr it's just cope u can't climb v10
Neither anyone in this thread, strongest person posted is a black dude on a v7
>>
>>210997
Join the Ai Mori support group and small box lobbying initiative.
>>
>>210997
At a very high level of climbing being short can be advantageous because of the better strength/weight ratio. At the level of the typical climber you are just going to get fucked over sometimes. It's impossible to give a problem one difficulty grade that fits every height, so unfortunately the grades will be a lot less accurate for you. More often than not that will mean the boulder problem is harder than advertised. Many shorter climbers are able to accept it and pursue a passion for climbing. I recommend trying to find other shorter climbers to climb with.
>>
>>210999
>Join the ... small box lobbying initiative.
Pls don't
>t. 6'4" gang
>>
>2024
>almost every sport has undergone training revolutions at the amateur level in the last decade
>Climbing refuses to move beyond "just climb" and a few vaguely defined drills at a push
Why are climbers so terrified of structure and real training? Incredibly cringe.
>>
>>211007
straw man and bait, kys.
there's been massive improvements in the last years. Lattice and the success of british climbers has shown that structured training is king.

the only thing that's missing is better open access to training plans, instead of having to buy Rock Climber’s Exercise Guide or a Lattice plan. people on youtube have started to share their plans which they used to overcome weaknesses, it's starting to gain momentum. the big problem is, with climbing you have to be more specific towards your weaknesses, so it's harder to program than a general all round plan like with weight lifting.
>>
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>>210942
>I failed a V3
Shit happens, I typically climb V6-7 and still don't flash every V3 because they're my anti-style or I simply slip or climb like a retard.
What's important is that you enjoy climbing and have fun, also climbing outside is the best.
>>
>>210990
>This is why I only lead climb, lads.
Saw an accident a few weeks ago where a guy lost a part of his finger.
He wanted to clip the rope in the quickdraw, fell and the rope somehow wrapped around his finger and "peeled off" the skin and flesh.
Also people falling to the ground because belayers are retarded.
Accidenty happen less often in rope climbing but when something happens it's much more severe
>>
>>211012
>somehow wrapped around his finger and "peeled off" the skin and flesh.
DEGLOVING
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>>210998
>https://frictionlabs.com/blog/why-climbing-v10-is-arbitrary-and-other-esoteric-thoughts-by-will-anglin
>To get better at any sport or activity, you have to actually do the sport or activity.
>Getting stronger on the hangboard or the campus board doesn’t mean you are going to be better at climbing.
AAAHHHHHH BUT I THOUGHT HANGBOARDING 15 HOURS A DAY MAKES ME THE BESTEST CLIMBER EVER!!!!
It's sad that this even has to be said
>>
>>211015
>DEGLOVING
Yes thanks, that's what it's called in english!
Was a horrible accident...
>>
>>210997
>I've been to a bouldering gym about 30 times in the past year and a half, whenever i needed a shower.
Uh-oh. Stinky.
>>
>>210997
>I'm 5'1" female
post climbergirl hands or gtfo
>>
Slab feels luck based
I'm always like slipping and bashing my fucking shins
With overhang my fate feels entirely in my own hands. I'm either strong enough or not
Tl;Dr Fuck slab
>>
how long do you drive to the gym or crag you usually go to?

closest gym to me is 20 minutes by car but i'm sick of it because i go too often. next one is 40min away and i like it but the ride to and back is like the fucking commute to my job, it feels so lame. and i barely climb outside because it's 1h away at least
>>
>>211025
I can drive but don't have a car
my usual gym is a twenty minute walk once a week or so i get the train to a bigger city nearby for bouldering, and again it's about a twenty minute walk
>>
> i'm sick of it because i go too often.
I know this feel. you can feel like piece of the furniture going to the same gym all the time. Everything seems too easy or too hard. That's why I mix it up once a week. Having loads of new stuff to climb is such a buzz, and you inevitably climb way more in that once a week sesh away from your local
>>
>but the ride to and back is like the fucking commute to my job,
Don't know this feel thoughever. Because bouldering and work are opposite ends of the fun scale
>>
>>211025
My usual gym is a 5 minute drive, <10 minute bike ride or 25 minute walk away.
There's another that's a 6 minute drive, 10 minute cycle, 30 minute walk
Another two within 10-15 minutes drive, 15 minute ride, probably 45 minute walk.
And another that's a 10-20 minute drive or 20 minute ride.
>>
>>211030
holy shit lucky you
>>
>>211025
1 hour is too much for you? Just fucking quit the sport already you faggot. 1 hour is a light commute to get to outdoor climbing. In my area the closest 2 star area is an hour away and that's considered a quick day spot. All the good shit around me is 1.5 away minimum with the really good stuff 2+ hours away. And guess what, I go every fucking weekend because I want to climb good boulders. 4 hours of driving in a day for 6 hours of climbing is an easy trade off. Buck up pussy. Actually no, just quit.
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>>211023
Nah man, I love slab. At least so long as they can be done statically.
The slow, painstaking movements. Keeping your balance just perfect at every point. Carefully feeling your centre of gravity shift as you inch a limb out to the next hold. Twisting your foot to maintain the optimum angle as you move your body.
Definitely no more luck-based than some burly overhang along the roof (which I also love - for me it's fuck coordination and fuck crimps)

My gym set one hell of a slab last week.
Every single one of the holds was dual-tex hemisphere, placed upside down or sideways so you could only stand on the no-tex side (the textured side of some of the holds could be used as an undercut, side-pull or heel hook but some of the holds might as well have been entirely no-tex).
There was a mandatory foot swap at the start that's drop you straight onto the floor if you weren't positioned perfectly.
Felt so good to get.

>>211031
Yeah. I've only recently got into climbing and it's a good spot to be.
There's also a public boulder wall in one of the parks nearby (and no, I don't mean just some kiddie wall in a playground).
>>
>>211034
>>211031
On the other hand, it's inner-city so outdoor climbing is a serious trek.
>>
>>211025
I have the following nearby:
a moonboard, 5 minutes by car or bike
a bouldering gym, 5 minutes by car or bike
a bouldering gym, 10-15 minutes by car
a climbing gym, 20 minutes by car
and a new climbing gym is planned for 2027/28 within 5-10 minutes by car, supposed to become the new biggest gym in the eastern half of the country

So yeah, I'm living the gym dream.
Sadly no real rock to climb within 30 minutes
>>
>>210993
I went climbing yesterday and just did a simple warmup then some lifting. I woke up this morning and the area feels tender, but not as painful. It seems like the rice-bucket shit seems to be helping.

I should point out that climbing doesn't hurt it at all. When I climb on it, I can't feel a damn thing, it's only the day after where it will be slightly tender. But for the last 7 days I've been doing rice-bucket once a day. I'm gonna move it up to twice a day.

This article seems to be the de-facto best finger healing guide:
https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/stories/experience-story-esther-smith-nagging-finger-injuries/

I think it might be a partial pulley tear and a very minor one, because there's no bowstringing, swelling, none of that. Just pain if I apply direct pressure. Since I have full mobility, I decided to try climbing after another week. Managed to flash a V3 which was nice, it means me strength hasn't dissipated.

Any other tips?
>>
>>211040
Just climb more.
>>
I am the chosen one
The world will find out eventually
>>
>>211043
ok
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>>211007
>Why are climbers so terrified of structure and real training? Incredibly cringe.
Slow cultural shift. Climbing in US, UK, and Canada aren't as comp focused as other places. The bouldering fad is very recent. Similar reason why Japan has populated most of the top 10 in all skateboarding disciplines with their kids. They put them in structured programs and train it like a proper sport. Programs in the west are basically daycares for kids with zero emphasis on developing talent for competitions. Skateboarding in the west is still in the 80s where it was about buying board on your own, attempting to learn with your jackass friends and maybe some day you will something big enough to get a sponsorship. No support whatsoever. US and Canada in particular are a bit more trad focused at least in regions near the mountains.
>>
I grab the foot only holds on the kilter board. I don't give a FUCK.
>>
For fuck sakes. Arco Rock Master was yesterday and nobody fucking saw it because they decided not to stream on youtube this year. I read (on reddit because I went searching for information this evening) that it was supposed to be on the IFSC Europe channel. Nope. They had it an Italian site with no archive video, only live stream.

Jessi Pilz and Yannick Flohe won, apparently.
>>
>>211042
Yup, that's the plan.
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>>211086
This is why the US Sucks at soccer. Only good athletes we can produce are those with connections and wealth. It's even starting to affect the NBA now, fucking 30% of players being foreign god damn. Could you imagine how much the US would dominate if we had some government funded searcher program like China? Where kids are literally measured and observed throughout their earliest years only for government officials to reach out to parents saying,
>Your child is most compatible with Diving/Weightlifting/Swimming
>His explosive attributes would make weightlifting the most practical, but your heights are too (tall or short) therefore we want your kid to do swimming instead
Holy fuck. My Chinese ex girlfriend literally told me how she had her arms measured as a 9 year old in school and was approached to start gymnastics weeks later. Shit's crazy.
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>>211100
Right, that's how you get teenage girls like webm related competing in niche nonsense like target air rifle and dominating the field. I don't think it's necessary to go to lengths China does but there has to be some middle ground so kids have opportunities. Otherwise finding sports talent in the west comes down to a series of lucky incidents OR the parents did all the development work for their kid from the start.
>>
European cup in Italy earlier today/yesterday. This one got the full production from IFSC for no reason in particular. Groom is on commentary, there are scores and names on screen.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uDaxanzFYp4
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>>211103
i saw of a comp in brisbane yesterday, the casters were all australian. the commentary was really good, in part thanks to that funny accent and way of talking they have
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>>211101
The USA does the middle ground option. Where premeditated actions and meetups happen to try to push the kid in the desired direction.
>>
Seems a v8 in California or Sydney is a v3 in Sheffield.
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>>211101
>Right, that's how you get teenage girls like webm related competing in niche nonsense like target air rifle
I don't see how that's a bad thing in my opinion. But we seem to be on the same page. I'll admit that if a US official came up to me and told me my future son could be a world class champion in equestrianism, or my daughter could be a world class backwards skiier, all I would see is an opportunity for success and fame. Climbing is already a niche enough sport as it is... My parents didn't even know it WAS a sport, they just thought it was something insane people did.
>>
>they just thought it was something insane people did
They are correct about that one
>>
>>211135
The best climbers I know have no self preservation and will actively do the most death defying shit without the slightest trace of fear. Climbing is one of the few sports where mentality changes fucking everything. The difference between a send and being unable to even do the starting move can be whether or not your friend is there cheering you on.
>>
My abs either got pulled or I got a hernia. It came on suddenly during a strenuous route. It gets better after a couple days, but after I climb it gets sore again. Then I have to take more days off.
>>
>>211142
Either climb light or deal with it. The muscles down there are durable as fuck, and even if it's a light strain or some tweak, it'll probably go away. Having pain come back after something's hurt is normal, it should only be concerning if it is actively getting worse. So just climb. Maybe avoid cave-climbs/overhangs if you're unsure. But that's a hard MAYBE.
>>
>>211147
I just got back into climbing as a gymfag so now I'm back at v3s instead of working on the v4s and v5s. I was going days in a row until the injury happened.
>>
Erin McNeice training at various climbing gyms in Leeds and playing pokemon go. She apparently loves pokemon.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jVqWIPrxKTY
>>
>>211176
>She apparently loves pokemon.
Of course she does. Did you not see her hugs during the Olympics?
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>>211184
>Did you not see her hugs during the Olympics?
I did.
>>
Bros I'm pretty sure the staff fucked up my membership and gave me an extra year... I'm rich....
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>>211151
>climbs days in a row
I found the reason you fucking retard. Just don't fucking climb two days in a row. How do you think I feel wen I hurt my finger DESPITE getting multiple days of rest in between sessions? I fucking hate this sport. Now Im doing V3s and V4s instead of V6s. Kill yourself
>>
>>211190
>hurt my finger
Tape up or don't use that finger to climb. Climb 5-6 days a week for 3-6 hours a day if you want to get good.
>>
>>211193
>Tape up finger
>A1 pulley
Will that even help? It doesn't hurt to climb, only hurts after...
>>
>>211195
Now that I am older and just getting back into climbing, I started using tape. The full length of the versatilities of this tape is unknown to me. I would climb using the other fingers that were on the ok in the past. Climbing routes with 2-3 fingers is great for finger strength training.
>>
Has anyone here overcome an insanely strong fear of heights? I'd like to climb outside eventually, but my hands start shaking just from going up steep stairs on tall observation towers and stuff like that. I've climbed on top rope in the gym and it was alright, but right now I'd probably shit my pants climbing on real rock.
>>
>>211209
Diapers are recommended for new climbers.
>>
>>211209
Most climbers I know have fear of heights. They use climbing as exposure therapy. Real climbing on rock isn't much different from indoor climbing, considering a fall from 50+ feet anywhere will fuck your shit up.

You can start by bouldering outside, that way you're still low to the ground. The best way to get over your fear of heights? Just gradually get used to it. Top rope outside with your buddies and if you puss out half way, then fine, but at least you're getting exposure.

God people who're afraid of heights boggle my mind. I'm afraid of real shit. Like ghosts. Fucker.
>>
>>211209
I have a severe fear of heights but when i started climbing it became apparent that my phobia wasn't heights alone. It was specifically tied to scenarios outside my control. Rickety stairs and architecture i considered questionable (like weak guard rails) would spike my heart rate like crazy. Climbing doesn't trigger it. If I'm not comfortable with some safety thing I'm not climbing at all. If i am comfortable, i will not have any height fear. I understand the Honnold school of free solo; practice first, understand the route, know it's not inherently dangerous in ways outside the climber's control.
>>
>>211209
Fear of heights is fear of falling and hitting the ground. That fear can be overcome by implicit trust in your system. That trust comes from experience. Basically just climb and you'll get used to it. Top roping in the gym is a great way to start.
>>
>>211197
Just went climbing today and practiced the moves on a hard V5. Finger felt completely fine throughout. Gonna do rice bucket later tonight to get some more rehab in and update tomorrow. Generally though, the pain has been less and less. I think I'll be back to moonboarding in 2 weeks or so.
>>
Rock master put the Arco vods up on youtube now. I am still mad they chose to only stream this live on the italian site Rai Sport with zero advance advertisement.

duel
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RcxuibT_dmk
boulder
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tMLsBD_-BXQ
>>
>>211279
At least they're up now. I was looking forward to watching these and was pretty pissed when it seemed like they'd never be coming.
>>
>>211309
Mattea Potzi has good feet for a clmber.
>>
>>211316
I wouldn't know. Not having commentary shouldn't matter if I just want to watch all be climbing but it does. Dropped it when I realised they were just going to be speaking wop.
>>
im losing weight so i can start bouldering without injuring myself
>>
>>211331
I'm gaining weight so I can start bouldering without injuring myself lol. I quit eating vegetarian specifically to reduce the number of climbing injuries that I was accruing.
>>
>>211333
I'm not in any shape to be able to effectively climb, I really want to give it a try but I wont start until at like 200 lbs , and even that is too heavy but at least mildly more manageable
>>
>>211336
>>211333
Shit bros, I was 110kg at the end of my last bulk and that didn't stop me from getting into climbing. Obviously it was easier once I dropped down to 95kg but I'm bulking again and still making progress.
I have taken a couple of whippers when holds have broken off in my hands (lot of sandstone around my area and, no, I wasn't climbing after rain) but no serious injuries. Still waiting for the day I rip a hold off the wall indoors, some of them creak like a bitch when I land a dyno.
>>
I live at the foot of a Swiss mountain. When I was a teen my dad used to take me and some friends climbing, often next to legendary routes like Bain de sang and other world firsts 9a.
All day outside with fresh air and the sound of the wind in the trees. Make some fire to stay warm in cold spring days and cook food.
He also needed me for belaying so every school holidays we traveled the world, slept in remote hostels, walked hours to reach a spot he heard about.

Now I go to the same bouldering gym 3 times a week with ac and heating, kids running around, a chef making vegan tapas and the owner blasting 00s nu metal shit.
>>
>>211142
If it turns out to be a hernia, get a doctor’s appointment and schedule a surgery. Otherwise it’ll haunt you and be fucking annoying for decades.
>>
i hate ticks i hate ticks i hate ticks
>>
>>211384
One time I was belaying a friend and I started to see ticks climbing on the rope as I fed it through the ATC. Then I noticed them on my clothes. The 10 minutes it took him to finish the pitch were the worst climbing moments of my entire life. After we bailed I was pulling them off me in a gas station bathroom for like a half an hour.
>>
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Prague World Cup has started. This is boulder only.

Men's top 17ish qualifiers list. I don't know what's going on with Mejdi Schalk. Last year he was making finals all the time. Now since failing to qualify for olympics he appears to be mindbroken somehow. He's in the semis so I guess another shot here for Prague but it's not looking good limping in with a 13th place out of qualis.
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>>211405
Women's. No Janja, which is expected. No Oriane, which surprises me. Oriane won Prague cup last year. She made a pretty angry sounding post on her instagram after losing at the olympics and hasn't done anything since. Apparently the mental game is weak spot for her. Erin McNiece continues to be awesome all the time now. And Jennifer Buckley again.
>>
>>211405
>I don't know what's going on with Mejdi Schalk. Last year he was making finals all the time. Now since failing to qualify for olympics he appears to be mindbroken somehow.
Meanwhile failing to podium at Paris seems to have lit a fucking fire under Sam Avezou. Damn.

>>211406
Katja Debevec has been doing pretty well recently for someone that I always thought of as being in the 3rd tier of the Slovenian team.
At 29 she'd be the oldest of the women's finallists by a fair margin, no?
>>
>Dyno into a fist jam
Has science gone too far?
>>
>>211221
Hey guys, some updates - After I climbed that day, I continued to do rice bucket shit. By Friday, I woke up and for the first time in 3 weeks didn't feel ANY pain whatsoever. Went climbing last night on some hard crimpy shit. Woke up this morning - completely fine. Maybe some light tenderness, but the pain is completely gone. I think it's healed bros. Going to keep doing rice bucket shit. That article was a godsend, if anyone ever has finger problems tell hooper's beta to kill themselves and read this article instead:

https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/stories/experience-story-esther-smith-nagging-finger-injuries/

tldr - If you have no mobility issues, just do the rehab shit daily, and climb every other day for shorter sessions. I dropped my sessions from 90 minutes to 30 minutes (excluding warmup) and was able to do decently hard shit and felt better and better each time.

For reference I first noticed my finger pain on August 25th, and was the worst (but could still climb on it) on August 30th. Pain lingered for awhile. I started doing this rehab shit 10 days ago. Completely fucking gone, back to projecting.
>>
>>211420
This is very good to know
>>
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Men's final is about halfway through. Boy I'm really enjoying this extensive live footage of the crowd interspersed with brief clips of climbers actually climbing the wall. The shaky cam is just amazing, also. Really climbing comps ought be just music videos. It's not like this is a sport or anything.
>>
Lmao Toby Floperts barely scraping by
Suckrato in shambles
Narasucki completely broken
>>
>>211434
Not mentioning the Czech choking champion I see.
>>
Can I buy Tenaya shoes in 2024 without supporting female suppression? Their shoe fit me so well I dont know if I can switch to another brand.
>>
>>211461
Who?
>>
>>211468
Ondra
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>>211487
I know, I was just being cheeky by completely ignoring him
>>
Yooooo, Natalia got it!
>>
I love my gym. Set a bunch of new V4's. They feel like V5's and V6's. Fucking love struggling on them. I got humbled when I told my friend I could flash V4's easily, then struggled to do some. I think it's part of a movement to make indoor climbing resemble more outdoor shit. The old V4's were just campusy, very easy. These new ones are all barn doors and static moves, you deadass have to maintain full body tension at all times otherwise you fall off immediately, there's no way to muscle through it.
>>
Tried the kilter board and was fun.
At 50° it's around equal to my gym 's grades.
>>
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>>211509
She did great on W4. That was impressive. It's uncommon to see women do a very long arm span like that. They can do leg splits all day but arms is shoulder strength heavy in a way most women either can't do or will go for every possible alternative beta idea to avoid it. Cool to see osh kosh b'gosh Mckenzie earn her first world cup medal also.

Now I'm off to Prague to go find that dj and tell him he sucks. I do not ever want to hear the regional american football playlist at a climing comp with such bangers as 'we will rock you', eminem, YMCA, sweet caroline. I bet that fucker has seven nation army on his playlist. I know he does.
>>
Is it worth kiltering or not? People say it develops bad footwork, but if you're actively progressing on it, aren't you developing explosiveness and strength?
>>
How should aggressive climbing shoes feel? My toes are curled and there is firm pressure on the top of my toes. These are my old climbing shoes that I have not used in a while. They still fit but gave me bone spurs on the inside on the knuckle of my big toe which is where a lot of the toe pressure is.
>>
>>211607
>aren't you developing explosiveness and strength
You are. Utilize a variety of training methods. You get better by focusing on strengthening your weaknesses.
>>
>>211607
No. It teaches you to engage your core on the wall. You can also do a lot of volume on it, especially for overhang stuff. You can do intense sessions in which you do multiple boulders in a row with not much rest in between and really tire yourself out. Most overhanging walls in a gym wont give you that much variety and volume in a session, and you will be limited to the boulders that are set there at a given time. Its also a less mundane way of gaining some finger strength in comparison to hang boarding. A few kilter sessions a week is very nice addition to any training.
>>
Can I wear dragos as a v2 climber or will the asian girls bully me at the gym...
>>
>>211712
At least with kilterboard problems I can actually do the fucking moves. Sent a few V2s/V3s on it at 45 degrees, and yet the moonboard V3s are still fucking hard as shiiiit.
>>
What do you fuckers do on off days? I hope you all get cancer. I'm just sitting here waiting for tomorrow to come so I can climb. Have any of your mothers had breast cancer? No? I hope they get it. Fuck you. Why did I have to deal with that shit growing up. I hope you all kill yourselves. You're all disgusting vile pieces of shit.

>>211714
>talks about asian girls
Indians shouldn't be allowed to climb. Fucking degenerate. Kill yourself. You won't be remembered.
>>
>>211714
>Can I wear dragos
yes
>as a v2 climber
no absolutely not, go with mid tier stuff like veloce or kubo
>>
>>211732
>Don't buy expensive shoes because I'm a poorfag who thinks everyone should budget.
Don't listen to him. Buy the fucking dragos. Why? Because they'll last longer for the money you're paying for them, and they have good grip and feel comfortable. Stop trying to budget, this is climbing for god's sake, nobody's wallets are getting untouched, so if we can just stop pretending like a bunch of pansies that every nickel and dime counts, we'll be sending some V10s pretty soon.

I hope you all kill yourselves after realizing your parents get cancer. I hope your loved ones all die. I hope you understand the misery that comes with a terminal diagnosis from a beloved family member. I don't deserve to suffer. YOU all do. You fuckers. I'd give you all tumors if it meant my family would be safe. Kill yourselves. Fucking do it. Just fucking kill yourselves you disgusting animals.
>>
>pulley injury AND a bunion in my first 6 months
bros, this is getting obnoxious. I think I'll have to switch over to just climbing for fun 2x a month or so; but my current load was only 2x a week. I don't get how my friends recover so much better when my diet and sleep are immaculate
>>
>>211733
>Because they'll last longer for the money you're paying for them
lmao a beginner will fuck up soft shoes like dragos with their shit footwork
>>
>>211742
I have never worn dragos so dont know how durable they are. But have held them in a store. By far the most brittle feeling shoe. The rubber seemed paper thin. I would recommend the instinct or a vapor which are harder. Origin VS seems like a solid option too for bouldering indoors. If it needs to be a soft shoe, the Veloce which is a fraction of the price of the Dragos, will fill the same exact use case and has far better value for money when it inevitable busts open and needs to be replaced/resoled in the same time as a Drago would.
>>
>>211737
Bunion is unrelated. I doubt you have a pulley injury unless you're using mono-pockets exclusively. Start doing no-hangs on hangboard. Follow emil Abrahamson's shit. Follow this anon's advice, he just went thru shit. >>211420

>>211742
Who cares, it's still comfy and will still last pretty long. Though if you're going to go with beginner shoes, tarantulas are top tier. Loved that shit.

>>211733
Ask me how I know you've been told to go to therapy. Fuck off.
>>
hey guys i made a new thread how do i cross post here?
>>
>>211758
You can begin by killing yourself, then nobody will remember you. I hope you can get cancer.
>>211757
FUCK YOU FUCK YOU FUCK YOU FUCK YOU
>>
>>211760
fatherless posting
>>
>>211757
>tarantulas are top tier
true, great beginner shoes
>>
>>211758
Please refer to this post but imagine that all the replies are directed at you >>209792
>>
>>211733
>we'll be sending some V10s pretty soon.
Aren't you some mindbroken V3 shitter?
>>
>>211812
Ignore the broken mind fuck going to the dark-side and let's talk about actual climbing - Found another gym that has wonky ass fucking grading. Maybe it's because I took 2 weeks off but coming back I flashed two V4s, but there were two V5s whose cruxes were insane. One required a perfecct flag and lock off combo, the other was just really pumpy section followed by a dyno up to another stupidly pumpy section. I'm going to sound like a huge bitch, but surely there's got to be a way to prepare myself for these harder climbs. This gap is just way too big. V5s and even V6's at my home gym are at least practicable, usually you fall off if you make a stupid move.

A wojak came up to me and said "That's why it's a V5 broooo" No. Shut up. I've done V5's before, there's no reason why these would feel far beyond my reach, especially since I'm stronger and theoretically better with my technique. Fuck these
>just climb
Losers, what should I actually focus on? More moonboarding? Hover hand drills?
>>
>>211835
Hang boarding, project the more difficult routes, and climb more.
>>
>>211835
2 weeks off you have no excuse
you should have tons of energy after such a long break
>>
>>211835
>moonboarding
always good, it's the best board after all
>>
>>211839
>hangboarding
I'd rather board climb since it gets my fingers strong WHILE working on footwork and hips.
>Project more difficult routes
Should I project every single time? I'm wondering if I should have technique days...
>>211840
I'm stronger than I've ever been desu. I flashed a crimp ladder with shit technique, and I still got through.
>>211842
Noted. I'm not even complaining that my gym sets hard, I just want to know that I'm not spinning my wheels for nothing
>>
>gym has around 60% women ratio, many beginners
>give tips here and there to the ones struggling with basic stuff
>they become clingy and ask what days/time I usually come
Why are we sexualized when we're just being friendly? Kinda disrespectful. Might tell the owners I'm being harassed and post a story about it on tiktok.
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>>210526
>lessons
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>>211835
Your home gym is probably just soft and you haven't really done a V5. Of course it could have been mislabeled if they were the only hard V5s, but a flag and lockoff doesn't sound crazy technical and I don't know how high the walls are but it's an indoor boulder how pumpy can it be. My advice would be pick a boulder and project it until you have it wired. That way you stay strong during the technical moves because usually this is where most people can't make a stupid move and just muscle back into the boulder. Also fyi flashing a crimp ladder doesn't make you strong it is still just a ladder.

TL;DR project without excuses
>>
>but a flag and lockoff doesn't sound crazy technical
I'll try and get a recording or some shit. I'm making it sound easier than it is. It's a hard move to describe.

Basically, you have high feet or no feet (smearing), and you have to match on a really shitty sloper. If you don't match on the sloper, you won't be able to get to a hold that's 4 feet to your right. So you get your right hand on the sloper, and if you so much as remove your left hand, you begin barn dooring. So you have to do one of three things - Some people do a toe hook on a shitty hold and match that way. Others just flat out skip it by dynoing it (only seen V8 climbers and above do this), or do this weird back flag while simultaneously doing a one arm lock off, then do a mini dyno to that hold 4ft away.

It's fucking hard, I just straight up cannot do the move. Every time I try to match, I immediately barn door off. I have s-o-y wojacks telling me "It's just body tension bro". I told them to fuck off. The other V5 is hard, but actually projectable, there's not a single move on it I cannot do, it's just a matter of doing it altogether.
>>
>>211910
>Anon struggles with random project
>guess he never really sent that random grade
Why are climbers like this? It comes off like everyone in the community is a gatekeeping asshole. Let's apply the same logic:
>Anon had a bike accident
>guess he never really knew how to ride a bike
>Anon fumbled a hot date
>Guess anon never had a girlfriend before
>Anon was trying to speak another language but made a grammatical error
>Guess anon never really studied
You guys are the reason I'm never going to confess when I struggle with shit, because I fucking know some asshole's just going to undermine all of my achievements in the name of "softness".
>>
>>211926
Idk, some of the gym grades in the US are ridiculously soft. A V2 at one gym is considered a V4 at another. Can't blame anon for thinking his gym's soft anymore than you can blame fearing a black guy at night
>>
>>211928
Unless you're a complete beginner, most people already fucking know this. It's such a reddit moment for someone to say, "Well, actually gyms tend to be soft because
>le it gets new people in
>thank you kind stranger
>Wasn't going to comment but this, 100% this
>Upvote for you kind sir
So it gets to the point where anytime someone thinks something is sandbagged it becomes
>le it's soft because....
>thanks for the upvote kind sir
I hate this faggoty community.
>>
>>211928
The soft gym grades is an overblown thing. Like sure, V1s and V2s are soft, but I feel like beginners properly struggle on anything above V3, which tells me that from that point on the grading's pretty consistent. There was a video on Emil's channel where he said Japan having harder gyms is also overblown, it's just a more technical style.
>>
I've started bouldering and it's kind of fun workout.
Makes me get out of my chair and do something so thats great.
Is climbing full body workout or just arms?
My forearms are always killing me while the rest of the body does nothing.
I get it I'm bad but still.
Also any tips how to get over fear of heights when standing on small/round holds?
I just don't trust my feet and can't stand on these things unless there is a proper hold for my hand and I know I have a back up when things go wrong.
>>
>>211942
>Just started
Fucking quit. I'm sick of fat losers like you thinking you can start this shit. I hate seeing pussies struggle on V2s and then becoming s-oy wojacks. Fucking kill yourself. Get the fuck out of here. How do I know your fat? By your own admission:
>Makes me get out of my chair and do something so thats great
Give up on climbing. Hit the gym. Go bother /fit/ you faggot.
>Is climbing full body workout or just arms?
The fact that you ask this demonstrates your low monkey brain IQ. So not only are you fat, you're not even white/asian. Jesus christ LEAVE. Kill yourself. Exit this world forever more.
>I'm afraid of heights
Then die.
>>
>>211945
>I hate seeing pussies struggle on V2s
Self hate isn't healthy anon...
>>
>>211947
I climb V5 pussy. You're just a fucker. I'm projecting V6's right now, because I'm a chad, and you're a fucking pig. Kill yourself.
>>
>>211942
>Is climbing full body workout or just arms?
it is full body. but (a) arms and even more often fingers tend to be the weakest link and (b) beginners use arms more then necessary which makes it more pronounced.

>Also any tips how to get over fear of heights when standing on small/round holds?
1 practice. 2. practice falling, so it doesn't scare you. 3. make sure you have decently tight shoes. 4. sometimes the fear is actually founded, like on some sketchy slabs where you can get proper grazed and bruised if you fall wrong
>>
>>211948
I was going to ask if you meant V5 indoors or out but the answer is pretty obvious. Miserable cunt. You don't even climb hard.
>>
>>211948
I think we already established in maybe last thread that you need to climb at least V7 to be chad
>>
Wow. So I saw notification from IFSC europe channel that european youth champs were on. Go have a skim at the semi finals. You get:
>720p at apparently 20 frames per second
>camera 1000 miles away from the wall
>no commentary as usual but also no audio whatsoever
Good shit.
>>
>>211948
>I'm projecting V6's right now
that's not so bad, not good but also not bad
>because I'm a chad
lol
>>
Will go bouldering outside on sunday, is it better to try to send harder stuff (V6-7) or climb a lot of the easier stuff? (V5 and below)
I can only manage to climb outside every few weeks so that's why I'm asking
>>
>>211957
You need to be able to flash a V7
>>
>>212003
Personally I always go for lots of easier stuff. It sucks to spend a whole day on a project and end up with nothing to show for it, especially if you aren't getting it very often.

If you have something specific in mind though and you're psyched on it then go for it.
>>
>>211917
Look at him! He’s having a meltdown over being outclimbed by söyjaks. Laugh at him!
>>
>>212013
I wouldn't describe that as a meltdown, especially when we're sharing a thread with this guy >>211733
>>
>>212004
Damn I got an outdoor v7 in 2 tries the other day, almost a chad.
>>
>>212033
It’s the same guy.
>>
>>212034
Outdoor grades for bouldering are easier than gym grades. Outdoor grades for lead are harder than gym grades.
>>
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>>212038
you didn't even try to make it believable
>>
>>212038
Nah
>>
>>212038
>Outdoor grades for bouldering are easier than gym grades
That depends A LOT on the gym and the grades.
I know a few guys that climb around V10-V12 and some gym boulders at that range are harder than they are outdoors.
Around my shitter grades (V5-7) outdoor feels a bit harder but not by much
>>
>>212034
You'll make it soon.
I heard this Youtuber talk about how for warmups he does technique drills, and I just realized how brilliant that is. He says most people don't like doing technique days, so why not just begin the 30 minute warm up by focusing entirely on it, that way you always get technique drills in no matter the day. I typically start my warmups by campusing shit to wake up my muscles, but I decided to do hover-hands yesterday and holy shit was it fun. It made V2s/V3s feel damn near impossible, and forced me to adopt really awkward positions. Also by the session's end I made substantial progress on my project. I'm definitely going to keep this up. It's fun making "easier" boulders feel hard as shit. Another person recommended that I try to climb with straight arms only, which is EVEN harder. Anyone else have thoughts on this?
>>
>>212047
You can run routes with less holds to increase the difficulty like no footholds or footholds are the only handholds or remove certain olds from the routes to make them more difficult. You can also choose to do the routes only using your predetermined fingers like no thumb or only pinky and thumb. Also practice your dynos on any holds that would make good dynos.
>>
>>212064
Ohh, good ideas. I'll prioritize them like this:
>Remove handholds to make route harder
Easily doable and can add challenges to shit. Especially if I combine it with hoverhands.
>practice dynos on any holds
That's kinda what I already do, especially on Juggy V2s/V3.
>Use predetermined fingers
This sounds like a good idea to work fingerstrength. I noticed my fingers felt a bit sore today, which usually only happens when I do kilterboard. I think this happened because when I did hoverhands on a V3, I was basically putting all my bodyweight (or double my usual weight) on my fingers, since I had to maintain tension with only 3 points of contact. Unironically, this makes lower graded climbs a decent finger workout.
>Only hand holds are handholds
That sounds insane. Maybe can only be done on V0s/V1s, my finger strength isn't that absurd
>>
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>>212070
Once I was at a climbing gym while Seb Bouin and Jacopo Larcher were visiting. After climbing all of the hardest problems in the gym they started inventing problems using only volumes.
>>
>>212072
The virgin problem climber:
>Is limited to only what others can imagine
>"Nooo, they removed my problem now I can never send it"
>Must contend with narrow selection of problems
>"I climbed everything at my grade... guess I'll wait for them to set more"
Versus the chad problem maker:
>The world is his oyster
>Actively invents problems at home like climbing under tables and shit
>Limitless creativity means the sky's the limit
>Unparalleled belief in self.
>>
>>212072
>After climbing all of the hardest problems in the gym they started inventing problems using only volumes.
That seems to be pretty common among comp climbers when they're training. I watched a few different channels on their olympic training process. I think every one of them mentioned an exercise involving trying to delete certain holds from boulder problems and seeing if they could still climb them.
>>
>tfw paramedic
>tfw I had to stretcher some girl out of a bouldering gym yesterday
>tfw emergency docs think she has a spinal fracture
I'm back.

Can confirm the girl broke her back.
Neurosurgeons have done their thing and pinned her spine back together.
Apparently she's already been asking the docs when she can climb again (3 months, RIP her gains).
>>
>>212070
>Only foot holds are handholds
>That sounds insane. Maybe can only be done on V0s/V1s, my finger strength isn't that absurd
when i see this, the guys just activate each hold by touching it first with their foot. some of the boulders look possible
>>
>>212142
>girl broke her back.
what kind of freak fall was that?? did she fall on her head or neck?
also based, wants right back into action
>>
>>212142
>>212148
Sounds like a massive scorpion. Fuck that.
>>
>>212148
>>212154
>what kind of freak fall was that?? did she fall on her head or neck?
Yeah, pretty much.
It was a roof climb at ~3-3.5m and apparently she had her feet up at the same level as her hands. Fell going for the match on the finish and I'm guessing her feet must've stayed on the wall some fraction of a second longer than the rest of her because she hit the ground head/shoulder first.
One of the emergency docs went out and climbed it the next day, said the climb itself is nothing wild.

>also based, wants right back into action
I know right. Based af.
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How many grades are added to a route if there's a waterfall?
>>
>>212164
>rope
fucking pussy
https://youtu.be/Cx31MBmNr4E?si=9Qi7vWsnRVi6lEBD&t=1241
>>
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>>212165
Got dam
>>
>>212164
Same grade but you put a (R) at the end to indicate the idea of climbing it is retarded. For example, 8c+(R).
>>
>>212165
>>212166
I see a harness and a rope but no gear or anchors, nor any sign of him actually clipping in. This chad literally wears a harness for the psychological benefits and nothing more.
>>212145
Anyone else have thoughts on this "foot activation" suggestion? To me it sounds retarded, it just adds hard moves with no real benefit other than getting your feet into high places? That's not hard to do. But some V7 flash chad might know otherwise.
>>
>>212171
I can flash v7 regularly. My take on it is you should train the way you intend to climb. Games like that can be fun but ultimately you're not going to be climbing outdoors like that so it's likely not going to help you much and at worse it will lead to you developing bad habits. For example, there is this meme that new climbers seem to fall for, which is to climb slowly or super statically. Not a good idea, it ingrains the habit of climbing slowly which is inefficient.

That being said, warming up in a way that will actually help your climbing is a great idea. Just going through the motions on easy climbs will get you warm, but you can also add quite a bit of finesse to warm ups and that will pay dividends on the long run. I like to delete holds, use stupidly high feet, dyno even if I don't have to, get into awkward positions, stuff like that. All the good climbers I know warm up like they're climbing hard boulders, but on easy boulders. That and some fingerboarding to really get the fingers ready for hard crimping.
>>
>>212171
I assume the harness is preparation for a rescue if needed

>>212165
You are gonna love this: https://youtu.be/ZueSwJia7PE?si=3sLO0_jspRx9_NTh
>>
>they changed all routes in the gym for a competition
I don't really get attached to things but a bit disappointed I wasn't able to finish those 3-4 that were in reach soon.
At least I got to spend the afternoon with cuties sharing impressions and tricks for the new ones.
>>
>>211420
Hey guys, new update - Now I have an actual A2 pulley finger. Inb4
>overuse
I literally climb 2 days off, one day on. I fucking despise American gym route-setting nothing but crimp ladders. If you want to climb more than V3, it's all crimps. I projected a crimpy V5, now my finger hurts. Ate well, I get 8 hours of sleep every night, what the fucking shit.
>>
>>211420
>>212291
like pottery

captcha: rawk
>>
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Mods are gay. Here is a pretty new 5.8 multi in my area
>>
>>212291
Just climb more. You're taking too many days off.
>>
Bros just got over my first competition, it was an endurance type, we had 24 hours to clear the most boulder problems we could through the three gyms across the city, the problem was at the end of the competition my hands were all bruised (dunno if it is the right term), in the end I got the 108° position with 50 boulders, I feel if my hands wasn't that fucked I've could send more 10 or 15 problems, what should've I done with my hands?
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>>212317
Ayy I climbed that with my dad a couple of months ago. Poison oak all over the base but it's a fun climb. First pitch is kind of physical and then the second pitch is a slab with a few delicate moves. I thought P1 was the crux but Dad thought it was P2. Great view from the top! Props to whoever put the bolts in.
>>
>>212291
>Ate well
lmao fatty has to eat
just hanbgoard more
>>
>>212291
R.I.P
What now? Did you speak with a doctor or physical therapist?
>>
>>212326
Tape up and keep climbing.
>>
>>212316
What?
>>212320
Probably. I'm still gonna climb. My finger already feels normal again. It was probably just a tweak. going to climb and do emil abrahamson's twice a day thing that I stopped doing.
>>212340
>calls someone fatty
>tells someone to hangboard
Go back to /fit/.
>>212343
Doctors don't know what they're talking about and there's nothing to do but rehab it and strengthen it. I'm just going to work slopey projects and balancy shit on slab.
>>
2 rest days between sessions minimum, don't believe the lies posted here.
>>
>>212399
>2 rest days between sessions minimum
What kind of monster sessions are you doing???
>>
just listen to your body
if you still feel like shit after x days then don't go, or take it easy during the session

also make sure to warm up
i spend my first 30 minutes doing simple hang boarding and stretches, ever since i started doing that my fingers have been feeling amazing
>>
>>212399
ok gramps
>>
>>212402
>listen to my body
>"Braaaap"
What did it mean by that? Could you translate?
>>
I did 10 minutes of cardio followed by dynamic stretching with intermittent hangboarding and pullups until I felt ready. I climbed well, felt stronger, and my body felt much better both during and after the session.
>>
>>212517
Ask me how I know you never climbed V5.
>>
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Seoul world cup semis on. IFSC have apparently lost the ability to use splitscreen and I think replays are also broken
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yKEqMzpR6qc
>>
4 minutes and 40 secinds into watching the Seoul boulder semis and the camera team have already zoomed in on an athlete's upper body just as he's about to navigate a tricky foot swap (only to slowly zoom out to a whole body shot once the swap's complete) and then cut away from the athlete immediately before he makes a pop for the top.
>>
>>212540
So, I was under the impression that IFSC outsourced the camera crew for each event. Always hire in locals for that. I thought that they still had some core production team of mostly studio people to actually run the show. Now I'm starting to suspect they have nothing. That they hire locals for the entire thing including director. That's why it seems like sometimes they have responded to criticism and fixed some stuff. Then the next event they regress straight back to the old problems. I believe it's an entirely different crew every single time.
>>
>>212538
40 minutes later
>Groom: we have become aware that you're not able to see the replays we've been talking about
NOBODY IS EVEN MONITORING THE LIVE FEED
>>
>>212545
>40 minutes later
>>Groom: we have become aware that you're not able to see the replays we've been talking about
>NOBODY IS EVEN MONITORING THE LIVE FEED
Kek

Came here ask if anyone had noticed that they're commentating about the "replay" of Dayan Akhtar on M2 while the stream only shows the next set of athletes running onto the mats.
How incompetent do you have to be to somehow send a replay to the commentators but not the broadcast feed?

>>212541
Yeah, I've always assumed it's an entirely local crew.
You'd think they might at least get some guidelines from the IFSC ("the majority of shots should show the athlete's entire body; keep tight zooms on hands/feet/faces to <20% of view time and ideally when athletes are resting or otherwise not on the wall", "don't cut to the crowd when an athlete is about to jump for the top, you fucking numpty") but I don't know if they even get that much.

For some comps at least the director is able to hear Matt's commentary because they'll respond to his comments ("you can't really appreciate how steep the wall is from this angle but it's actually really intimidating when you're under it" - followed by a cut to one of the cameramen walking right up to the base of the wall, "huh, I don't understand why she's being called down" - followed by a replay of the athlete's foot flicking over some black tape).
Kinda unfortunate that Matt's so easily distracted because I don't think he's ever noticed the directors responding to his comments, certainly he didn't react to it in either of the examples above. If he would just make a few little comments like "it's a shame we couldn't see his feet while he made that transition" or "I hope we get a shot that includes the athlete's whole body the next time they attempt that jump" then I think we'd see a massive improvement in the quality of the footage.
>>
>>212553
>>212545
>>212541
>>212540
>>212538
>I unironically talk about and watch competition climbers because I can't actually climb
These conversations are more degenerate than the /fit/ faggots crying about how they can't move their fingers after hangboarding. This is /climbing general/ not /comp climbing general/. Talk about outdoor shit you faggots. Stop watching from your bedrooms, masturbating to the thought of this parkour shit being called "rock climbing."
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>>212573
No. Seethe harder, bitch boy.
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>>212573
The conversation is perfectly appropriate. /out/ has its own climbing thread.
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>>212584
>>212584
See >>207446
>/Climbing general/
>Where do I start?
>People typically start in the gym and branch off outdoors and find their niche, be it bouldering, trad, sport or a mixture of the above. Some never leave the gym at all. Ultimately it doesn't matter - just get started and enjoy yourself.
>How fit do I have to be to start? Do I have to be able to do x amount of pull-ups?
>Being light, strong and flexible helps at the higher levels but climbing is open to almost anyone and is fairly intuitive to most. Even if your body is feeble and weak now, you will develop strength over time by virtue of just climbing. Climbing is a holistic sport and success often hinges upon many factors, not just strength and power, but having these qualities definitely helps when you breach into the higher grades.
>What shoes do I buy?
>If you're starting out in the gym, don't worry too much: get some snug shoes without dead space that don't cause you lasting pain. Some people (such as the famed shoe designer Heinz Mariacher) recommend wearing soft shoes when you're starting out -- this makes sense since your footwork will probably suck and the increased feedback will pay dividends over time. You really don't need fancy expensive shoes when you're starting out, but certain shoe properties help send harder problems (e.g. stiff shoes for standing on tiny granite edges or soft shoes for sandstone/gritstone smears).
Don't see anything about /comp/ climbing here fren. Thank you kind stranger. Wasn't going to post here but this, 100% this. Didn't think I would post here, but here I am. Agreed. Yup. Hello from a kind stranger. Thanks for the gold kind stranger.
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>>212606
Wow I didn't realize that whoever wrote the OP was king of the world. I'll be sure to make the next one and specify that you are a faggot.
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I appreciate two of the most socially awkward young women in comp climbing making the podium in boulder earlier today. Mori instead of Zelia would have been the pure trifecta but Mori missed finals.
>>212573
The /out/ thread is the dedicated outdoor climbing general. This one is a mix as this is the extreme sport forum. It's been that way since at least the Tokyo Olympics.
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Nevermind your medalists and your elite and your Red Bull sponsored world beaters. No. The real heroes of World Cups are here. They show up every event knowing it'll be a miracle if they get more than a single zone in qualis.
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>>212614
look at those mittens
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>>212621
>>212616
>>212614
>>212611
Ah yes, more comp losers. Tell me faggots - do any of you actually *do* comp climbing? No? So why are you fucking posting here. Go onto a sports fans club. You guys are like 40 year old beer drinking, chain smoking dads who watch their 11 year old girls play soccer while not paying attention because they have FIFA on their phones. Jesus fucking christ, pick up a pair of shoes and hit the fucking crag.
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>>212645
>hit the fucking crag
I do pretty much every weekend. And no I don't comp climb, or watch comp climbing, but I think it's fun to read other poster's reactions in the thread. It's not like they're drowning anyone out... nobody else is really posting much recently.

If you're so hot about climbing outdoors then post some pictures; ask some questions; talk about upcoming trips. Be the change you want to see.
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>>212651
>Anon tries to fill the world with hate
>Anon #2 acts like an adult and shows him wholesomeness instead
Maybe there's hope. In other news anons, I have some updates. Btw I'm the poster who did>>212291
Turns out it was probably just a minor tweak, it felt fine pretty much the day after. Projected yesterday and fingers feel normal. I made sure to do Emil's hanging routine twice a day every day. I still plan on doing that. Also added some creatine to my diet, pretty sure that helped too.

So I finally got this really tricky backflack at my gym that took me 3 weeks of projecting. Squeezing my abs and making my core tight helped a lot.
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>>212573
All of people climbing parkour shit climb harder than you in literally every style, I door or out
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Currently climbing outdoors for the first time. Getting totally ass raped.
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>>212730
Imagine if there was a discussion about projecting comp boulders, and figuring out certain moves. Maybe recordings of you competing at your local comps. But no. It's just pure faggotry spectating. It's commentating. I.e. irrelevant to this thread and the discussion. Because you're not climbers. You're fat fucks who've never touched plastic or stone. You probably get stoned though. You think you're hot shit because you maybe go into your gyms once a month to climb a V1 to show off to your co-workers who got in for free thanks to the free-pass system. But in reality you're just degenerate fuckers who have no clue how to back flag. Want to know what I did this week? Bust my ass off grinding my projects. I have 5 minutes of footage consisting of clips where I connect the hardest moves I've ever done in my life. I'm not some faggot who posts online and says, "WOW LOOK AT WHAT THIS OTHER GUY IS DOING THAT I"VE NEVER DONE BEFORE NOR EVEN TRY TO DO, ARENT I COOL?"

Fucking. Kill yourselves.
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>>212731
>Posts twice in a row
>Pretends he's not a faggot.
Nice.
>>
I have something climbing related- Why do the climbing gyms in Chicago have shitty weekend hours?
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>>212731
Sorry about your mum, mate.
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>>212744
To keep the poor flux to a minimum.
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>>212731
>Want to know what I did this week?
no
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>>212725
Awesome. I recommend taking it down a notch and trying to get some mileage in rather than spending all day on one rock. Ganbatte.

I'll be heading out tomorrow to boulder with a couple of friends. Neither of them have climbed outside before so we'll just be ticking all the moderates. I might bring a rope out so we can play around on the highball boulders.
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>>212044
it typically breaks even around v9-v10, outdoor is harder till then
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>>212730
unironically based. The only people who watch comp slop are either non climbers or never broke v5 indoors
>>
so close
>>
Based mods, comp climbing is real climbing confirmed
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another soul crushing shower day of my cursed existence as a tiny f*male
best i could do was touch the next hold but not on the hold part
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>>212907
climb outside
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>>212909
no friends
nothing nearby
its over
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>>212907
i can't quite make out the angles and the up-down axis. it looks like you are going for a super powerful, super reachy move. is it not possible to play around with the beta? to use the right wall or the big hold in the area of your shoulders? to press against it or put there a foot?
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>>212920
no, i dont think so. unless i am just retarded after all. grey holds are parallel to g round
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Climbing is fun
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>>212759
It was fun. I ended up mostly just trying different traverses and focusing on trusting the feet. It was rough granite so one positive surprise was that smearing was quite doable. On the other hand, I did struggle with many of the tougher hand holds. Picrel is from a 6A traverse. Couldn’t grab a hold of it at all, but oh well, gotta keep working on it.
>>
New thread when?
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>>213015
I am arbitrarily waiting until this thread hits page 9
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Finally making progress on all my projects. Definitely a result of improving my diet and taking creatine again (90% creatine, 10% diet) but also improving my mindset. Rather than focusing on sending, I'm looking for minor improvements. Am I able to get more attempts on a project in a given session? - Improved energy efficiency/strength. Am I able to hold onto a hold longer in an undesirable position? - Better strength coordination. Am I able to try new ways to move my hips into the wall? Improved coordination. Can I maintain body tension better? Etc. Focusing on these smaller elements on all of my projects make me feel like I'm becoming a better cloomber.
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>>213137
>creatine
what does it even do except making you heavier?
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>>213144
I find it funny when climbers are like, "reee it makes you heavier" when people climb 5.14 routes with trad gear like it's no fucking problem. If you want to weight-max, get a diet and climb naked fatty. Only retards don't know that creatine enhances power production and lets you climb under fatigue. The weight gain is minimal. Standing tall at 6 foot 1, I gained an incredible (gasp) 2.5lbs. If that's really the difference between a full send and being unable to start, quit this sport and kill yourself. Jesus fucking christ you're retarded.
>>213137
Keep taking creatine anon. Ignore that faggot.
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>>212925
Hmm. It's really hard to offer beta from photos but I think I would try alter body position and maybe get my left foot on the white hold just below that large blue volume in the middle. Doing the big reach from your position looks possible but maybe not the only way available. Have you seen anyone else try this problem?
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>>213192
Why are you so ass blasted?
> creatine enhances power production and lets you climb under fatigue.
Cool
>>
The intended beta would be to flip your right hand from where it is to the other side of your left hand and rock over onto the left foot. If that doesn't allow you to reach you would need to engage the right arm/shoulder into a press. It that is to hard it might be possible to press from the handhold just below you but you would need to almost have the elbow locked out to do that.
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i think it would be easier to boost of the foothold on the right wall

getting the high left foot you want to go from a deep lock off or move into a press, neither seems very beginner friendly
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>>213137
Do you feel any effects from the creatine?
I took it for a few months a few years ago and didn't feel or see any change.
Maybe it was bad quality creatine?
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>>213225
Not everyone feels the effects of creatine, and it has to do with your natural level of saturation. Some people naturally have higher creatine stores. Among my friends, I was actually quite a huge responder to it. I know people who take it and see minor effects, and people who take it and feel absolutely nothing. My diet's shitty, which makes for an additional reason to take it, since I don't get much of it from diet.

If you've taken it for months and truly felt nothing, then you might be a non responder. But my head canon is that everyone responds to it, even if they don't realize it, and that you need to pay very close attention to it. When I take it, I load it 20g a day for a week to make sure I can notice the differences immediately. I stopped taking it for 3 months and my climbing ability declined (well, it stopped improving as fast would be more accurate). It's no coincidence that I start loading it, and my projecting sessions are suddenly getting dramatically better. Compared to my last session, I got nearly double the amount of attempts in, and my attempts were of higher quality, and I managed to project multiple routes that I was too pumped to do before. This means more time on the wall for me, and better quality time spent on the wall. Literally no reason for me to stop again.
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>>213192
Funny how defensive you get immediately when others don’t get excited about the latest fad you’ve fallen for.
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>taking PEDs for casual climbing
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creatine caused elliot roger to go crazy, be careful!
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>>213244
>>213254
>>213257
>Your typical climbing s-o-y wojak when they try to talk about something that isn't chalk/shoe related.
Nothing to respond to here folks.
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>>213254
I take PEDs (coffee)
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>>213266
cry more you bloated baby
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>>213308
you will never climb V4
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>>213312
Whoah be careful, he might actually kill himself.
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>>213312
I’ll take consolation in loading your mum’s diet with some creatine of my own then
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>>213326
Sadly even topping my mum isn't V4 so you'll still never be a real climber
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>>213364
This dude's mum is a V0, fucking everyone does it as a warm up
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>>213016
Right. It's time now.
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>>213016
Go make a thread anon!
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>>213465
>>213478
Yeah, yeah I'll do it. But I'm at work right now.
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>>213488
Bitch if you don't do it in the next 2 hours, I fucking will. Jfc it takes seconds to do.
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New Thread:
>>213492
>>213492
>>213492



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