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2chainz edition

Resources:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help
RJ the bike guy on youtube
Previous thread >>2025931
>>
Is this thing safe for MTBs?
Should I get raised handlebars instead?
>>
Best chain lube for cold and wet conditions? They salt the roads here, so my drivetrain takes a beating.
My commute is 2x6km a day but it’s enough to fuck things up
>>
>>2028429
I wouldn't run that for anything involving hard use offroad.
commuting, or basic gravel riding is probably fine.
>>2028430
idk, but I would try thinner oil since it would fling off and go away with the salt. While also flowing better then thicker stuff.
>>2028431
Not even going to bother.
>>
>>2028430
Look into waxing your chain. Like dipping it in melted wax.
>>
>>2028430
Wax. Also buy a new chain each year and stop bothering. Salt does fuck your chain/gears up like nothing else.
>>
I recently found a bicycle and took it home. It needs a new seat buy how do I find one that is very comfortable for long rides as a 250lb rider
>>
>>2028473
>I recently found a bicycle and took it home
>250lb
Da'Quantatius, give it back.
>>
>>2028473
read this post and the four under it: >>2027967
>>
>>2028477
I have now read those posts, but unfortunately they seem to be for more ordinary bicycle seats.
I guess I'm actually looking more for a wide one which supports my entire ass instead of just my crotch area.
>>2028475
no it is mine now
>>
>>2028479
you specified long rides. something wider that doesn't fit you will stretch you out and it'll hurt. something super padded your soft tissue between the sit bones will sink down into the padding and it'll chafe and it'll hurt.
there's no "ordinary" bike seats. there's ones that fit and ones that don't
>>
>>2028481
I guess what I had in mind is like my motorcycle seat, I can ride it for 4 hours out in the bush bouncing over dirt and rocks and my ass will not be destroyed at all.
So I was just assuming something like that would work where the seat is about the width of the ass, but I suppose with a bit more clearance to pedal
>>
>>2028482
yeah, but your legs where they meet your hips aren't constantly moving on a motorbike seat.
all the questions you are considering have been experimented with and tested a hundred years ago. bikes are really old. when it comes to the human body and how it fits together with a bike, everything has been tried and refined. the results are in. they've been in since the 1970s or 80s.
>>
>>2028482
as long as your riding position is mostly upright, the calculation for your saddle width is going to be pretty fucking wide anyway. but keeping an upright posture over long rides saps your energy, which is why beach cruisers people only fart around on for a mile or two are the only bikes designed for upright riding. if you want any modicum of efficiency, you're going to have to lean into it a bit.
like when you're walking and you come to a hill, you don't keep an upright posture, you'll fall over backwards. you instinctively lean forward to keep your weight a little in front of you while walking uphill. when you switch from walking to running, you do the same thing even though you aren't going uphill. it's the same with bikes. if you want to go faster than a walking pace, you have to lean forward at least somewhat.
>>
>>2028429
Definitely NOT safe. Get a riser stem and/or riser bars.
>>
>>2028473
How do you find one?
You could be like most of us and buy a seat used online because it's a "good deal" and never be comfortable.

Or you could be smart, go to a bike shop, and pay them some tens-of-dollars to spend an evening testing a bunch of seats until you find one you like. Then with that info buy a used one online or cough up the dough and pay full price.

It's the most important contact point of your bicycle so it's worth spending the money on. It's like having a well fitting pair of shoes. Just commit to getting a good fitting seat and the rest will follow.
>>
>>2028473
Ride your bike for a week or two first, your body has to adapt.
Once you do that and realize(oh this isn't bad) or (nah this still sucks) then you need to try some different seats.
I am a similar weight and can get along with most normal seats, but I do notice if they have no suspension/saddle flex, or are too narrow.
Too wide or too much skirt in the middle and your thighs chaffe against it(grim).
>>
Has no one invented a sealed oil bath for a derailleur drive transmission? That would be mounted on the hub and frame and allow as much dust and dirt into the transmission as can fit into the hub bearings?
>>
>>2028537
This has been done several times. The Honda GN01 is the most modern example of a derailer in a sealed case, but still runs a chain externally to the rear wheel. The difficulty with this idea is that there's a limit to how large a chaincase can be without interfering with the rider's legs or spacing the cranks too far apart for efficient pedaling.
>>
my late 80s/early 90s peugeot atb with comfy geometry and 531 tubing has developed a massive crack in the seat tube. Also, the rm-20 rims it was rolling on have got cracks around most nipple holes. Should I bother with getting a local framebuilder to repair the frame and buy new wheels or should I just give up on it?
>>
>>2028489
my friends dad goes down by the river, thats where the homeless/junkies abandon shit. every year we take a bunch of shit bikes and fix them up to give away to kids. i dont think i've ever seen him come back empty handed, theres always at least one
>>
>>2028537
>>2028557
I believe the latest hopium in this space is the patent shimano filed a few years ago showing a dual-cassette derailleur box with a very simplified shifting mechanism mounted at the BB like a gearbox. The twin cassettes means there’s no tensioner needed and the derailleur used is more like a 1960’s chain-pusher thing, simplifying things more than Hondas WC derailleurbox. There is still a final drive chain/belt to a single cog on the wheel, of course. Unfortunately, Shimano would make several billion more yen by focusing on a motor there instead, and pinion gearboxes are popping up everywhere these days anyways, I don’t expect much from the space of derailleur in a box
>>
>>2028585
Based on the patent with smaller cassettes it doesn’t seem like it would increase Q factor much more than normal mtb bottom brackets do
>>
>>2028473
Go to Walmart and get a Selle Royale in one size narrower than you'd think would be comfortable.
They are made in Italy, imagine that, something at Walmart not made in China.
Your ass is going to hurt for a week or two but if you ride it frequently your taint will toughen up and it won't hurt at all.
>>
>>2028573
Canyon express?
Financially speaking it's not worth it, but if you have the desire to keep a cool old bike alive then by all means.
>>
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>>2028573
Here's my 1987 Peugeot ATB, a bottom of the line U.S. Express.
I restored it despite it not making any financial sense to do so, because I like it and 99.9% of people won't know a damn thing about it, just that it's a cool old bike in great shape
>>
>>2028591
Is that.... a custom meme reynolds sticker on the st?
lmao
>>2028573
If I really liked the bike I would fix it, unless there is a comparable bike/frame locally cheap.
>>
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>>2028593
Nah it's L1011 steel, which was probably nothing special.
The Reynolds would have been funny, but a majority of people wouldn't know the difference
>>
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>>2028596
Ah, just had a similar design and colorway, which I know lots of other brands did.
I remember learning about these earlier last year, and now I need to get some for my keeper bikes
>>
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>>2028591
Resto looks amazing. I think if I go through with it I'm just going to do a single colour powdercoat to save some money.
>>2028590
Mine is a Europe Express. pic rel
>>
>>2028416
Gonna be a neet for a while (uni student but taking a break), how much hands on bike mechanic skill can I learn in roughly 2 months? Asking because there's an entry level mechanic program that starts mid February and I did a build your own bike course a few years back, but haven't done much except experiment a little on a project beater bike since, and I do want to pass it even if I don't get a job with it just for personal learning. I feel rusty but I've torrented some books and I'm willing to volunteer at a co-op for hands on experience
>>
>>2028615
Depends on how adept you are at learning. If we are talking 4-8 hours a day 5 days a week I would suspect you can learn most if not all of basic maintenaince and rudimentry suspension, and even basic e-bike stuff.

I just do bike stuff for fun and it's all easy for me since I did motorcycle+car stuff before. Just have to learn what weird tools, or odd skills.

Only thing I find more challenging is remembering all the standards, what parts fit, electronics(skill issue), and further into suspension work.

I think my most first project road bike(vintage) I did took maybe a 10-20 hours, but that was with canti brakes, no oem parts, paint, and more fun.
Now If I get a complete vintage bike it can be good to go in about 5 hours.
>>
>>2028610
gorgeous.
I imagine the reach is a bit of a stretch though.
>>
>>2028610
Are you Canadian? I've checked the U.S. brochures and the only year with a Europe Express was 1989 and it had a different color scheme.
If that's yours it looks really cool with that loud Memphis color scheme. People love the Specialized bikes of the same era for their paint jobs, but I think Peugeot was right there with them on looks.
I definitely think you should try to save it IMO
>>
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>>2028610
Thanks!
It started out rough from leaving it outside in the rain for a decade, but I've almost got it back together with a few upgrades.
If you decide to restore it, I don't think the dual tone will cost that much more than single.
For my resto I stripped the frame myself, shipped it out of state ($70), bought 1lb of powder coat ($20), had it blasted and coated ($275), had two custom decals made ($35), bought the rest of the decals on ebay ($35), and paid return shipping for the frame ($70).
There are definitely ways you could do it cheaper than I did, especially without the shipping. But it has sentimental value to me so I think it was worth it
>>
>want to replace tubular rims
>only rims I can find that matches spoke count is a taiwanese copy of araya
$10 for a pair, should I? I'm really getting desperate to replace these tubular rims.
>>
>>2028620
You knew what you were signing up for

Also I gave you a (You) so now you owe me a post about what it's like to own and ride on tubbies
>>
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>>2028626
It came with the bike. They feel pretty nice actually. The only thing bothering me is that if I get a flat I'm fucked and that's why I want to switch.
The rear tire keeps leaking air though, so I tried putting a bit of sealant to fix it. Helped a bit but still leaking. Might be the bent valve core, so I have to wait a week or go to a nearby city to hopefully find LBS that sells one.
>>
>>2028620
someone posted a vid of replacing tubular once and it seemed like the worst thing in the world. all that prep, glue you gotta use in minutes and it might not even hold right. i've never ridden them but everything about them seems awful
>>
>>2028596
>>2028601
Raleigh had their own fake-out Reynolds-esque decal
>>
>>2028615
>roughly 2 months
like, it meets for an hour one day a week for 2 months? . you'd get the basics I'd guess.
it meets several hours 5 days a week for 2 months? damn near everything, I'd expect
>>
>>2028620
>araya
I have a set of 80s araya clinchers that I've literally put through hell and they always go back to true. dunno about Taiwan copies or tubulars, tho
>>
If you take into account the cost of food consumption to replenish the body energy spent on pedaling and sitting in an uncomfortable aerodynamic position, will an electric bike be more profitable than a default bicycle? Under ideal conditions, the battery loses 20% after 1000 cycles. But it can continue to be used further up to 50% or less. The direct drive motor resource is 100,000 kilometers and more. If it is regularly serviced and not exposed to overheating, it will last for a longer time - 1,000,000 km and more.
>>
>>2028641
Also, a human, regardless of the load, spends a certain number of kilocalories. Even in a relaxed state, even lying on a bed. The more uncomfortable the position and the busy of the limbs, the more is spent. If you ride twice as fast, then we will reduce by half the kilocalories that are spent when riding a bike. A high cruiser seat spends fewer kilocalories than an MTB and more fewer than road. A relaxed seat with your back against the chair on a recumbent bike is even more efficient.
>>
>>2028636
people used to change them on the road
its actually easier now since you can use tape
>>
>>2028642
>>2028641
I didn't notice any difference in food consumption/grocery spending between when I was riding 9-5 every work week as a messenger versus working restaurant jobs but I guess that's pretty subjective
>>
>>2028641
This is a curious question I've asked several times myself. The conclusion really depends on so much other factors but especially time frame. Under a long enough timeline, the regular bike will out efficient the electric powered one but at the early stage of calculation where maintenance and replacement parts aren't a problem, electric is by physics more thermodynamically efficient than a human. It's only when the timeline is long enough where the increased maintenance and replacement of major consumables (battery mainly) is where the regular bike wins. Even more tism, we also need to ask, do we also include manufacturing inefficiencies?
>>2028647
Recent studies have shown that calorie intake doesn't exactly align with calorie consumption over time, the human body becomes more efficient from continued exercise.
>>
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>>2028637
Yeah, I have one with raleigh 555sl tubing.
>the seat
it's fixed I can't be arsed to take another picture.
>>2028636
Fast changers use tape in 2024, at least that's what I heard. Biggest advantage is they feel like tubeless/they roll better, and if you flat a tubular it won't ever roll off the bead. I have heard many stories of riders riding out a front puncture and not crashing on tubulars.
>>2028620
I would buy a used tubular wheel from the good ole' days off ebay. If you live in the US a metropolis near you might have some on ebay.
Generally dirt cheap
Heck there is a guy local to me selling a ton of old school tubular rims.
>>
>front trp cx9 v brake won't stop squealing
>yes toe in
>bit of a gap between arm and braze-on but doesn't seem like it'll sit any more flush
I think my next step is to start spamming random cheapo pads but does anyone have any other ideas
>>
>>2028661
>If you live in the US
that's the problem, I live in SEA and my LBS didn't even know what tubulars were.
>>
Why do timing chainrings on tandems need to be the same size?
My wife and I have different strength levels and pedal at different paces to do the same speed, is it so bad that we'd be out of phase?
>>
>>2028665
Since you are SEA I would try the araya copies.
If you can, weigh them both since you can estimate the strength by weight, aluminum quality, and profile.
Particularly with tubulars since most are just a freaking tube of a rim.

>>2028662
Remember, squealing is caused by the brake pad oscillating against the rim at a rapid rate. If the whole brake is doing this none of the below will fix it
You can
>clean rim+sand them
>clean +sand pad
>change pad material
Pad would be my first bet, other bet would be.... just riding more. Recently it took a wet, offroad mtb ride to bed in my pads to an ancient anodized wheel.
Was squealing damn near every time I used it until 15 miles into the mtb ride it finally quieted down. So I was getting grit+pad+water action for that whole time and it worked.
>>
>>2028668
>If you can, weigh them both since you can estimate the strength by weight, aluminum quality, and profile.
what would be the ideal weight? I'm switching to regular clinchers for peace of mind.
>>
>>2028669
There is no ideal weight, I am just saying if the extrusion design is the same, and the weight is the same it SHOULD be similar in strength.
So you can kinda gauge the rim strength by that, but theoretically they could do neat things inside that make them stronger as well.

Generally aero/deeper rims are stronger, and heavier ones are too. It's easiest to just look at the manufacturer recommendations.
>>
>>2028667
Timing chainrings don't need to be identical, however it makes final drive calculations and optimizations easier. There's an interesting idea of splitting tandem crank timing to smooth out torque impulse at the wheels by using different timing rings
>>
>>2028616
I'm pretty slow and clumsy with my hands (autist, ADHD), but I learn well from books. I did get into uoft. But for me I always feel like I need some more time and extra time and attempts at anything tactile and requiring hands on tinkering or fine motor use, like cooking for instance. I went into build a bike program knowing a bit more about bikes than everyone else there but I think I needed extra drop in hours to finish (although I was commuting into the program). There was the option to start in January but I want to be as prepared as possible going into this to account for how rusty I am and because I want to pass it in one go because it's actually quite the time suck. I've also never touched electronic groupsets or modern Shimano/SRAM/campy components in my life before, like this was all just refurbing old steel or aluminum beaters with trigger or down tube shifters, but since this is pretty employment I'm hoping I might get to play around with that stuff for the first time lol. I really want to end up with the skill to build complete bikes from the frame up.

>>2028638
Here's the course information. I think it used to actually be paid training in the past, iirc. The two months I was referring to was me intending to just bounce around in co-ops or play around with the frames and bikes I've got at home and read up Sheldon Brown's website and torrented park tool school books in the interim

Thanks very much for the advice btw, I highly appreciate it and I hope you guys are having a good Christmas
>>
>>2028672
Technically motorcycle race bikes started to go to v4's for that reason, to split the torque impulse into the tire via the firing order of a v4 with a 270 degree crank. Bonus is it sounds cool to many people, and the better traction is faster.
>>
>>2028668
>just riding more
noted. I've put probably 120 road mi on this setup in the last couple weeks, but not much hard braking.
I do think the levers themselves might have some fore/aft play on the posts, but not entirely sure what to do about it or if it's even out of spec.
>>
>>2028650
> do we also include manufacturing inefficiencies?
No, it doesn't matter, calculate only the cost of the batteries, BMS and assembly, and cost of electricity for charging. You can solder and waterproof the 18650/21700 elements into battery in a few hours. Li-NMC prismatics with terminals are even faster, and they are also much more reliable.
>>
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Trying to find a replacement for the straps for this helmet.
https://amzn.eu/d/gK56HcC
Generic ones don't seem fit them and the manufacturer doesn't make helmets anymore. It's a good helmet and I don't really want to get rid of it just cause I can't find the straps for it. Any help would be welcome.
>>
>>2028683
Yeah I would ride it out then. I was surprised how much braking it took to finally bed my pads, I had salmon koolstops on a vintage trek/matrix anodized rim.
For mine it would squeal at light-medium braking, but harder and it would quiet down, so that's what I did.
>>
the part where the anchor bolt is screwed in snapped off. Should I get it welded back on or is it unsalvageable at this point?
>>
>>2028416
Can you just train indoors 99.9% of the time and still be good during club criterium races or amateur uphill events? Drivers are psycho here and it's winter but I also mean summer training too
>>
>>2028766
You can build strength, but your climbing, and descending skills will be shit so make sure you do some outside training.
Maybe look around locally if there are any quiet back roads, or dirt roads to train on as an extra option. Make sure to train outdoors when you can, particularly standing if you like to do that when climbing like I do.
>>2028737
Where is said anchor bolt?
Most bikes I can think of have recessed nuts for attaching things, threading, or other attachments.
>>
>>2028766
maybe. if you're already a good bike handler and are good at riding in a group, then you're probably fine.
>>
How long till I adjust to riding a bike in terms of my ass and knees getting used to it? Or am I doing something wrong
I have ridden like half a dozen times 30-50 mins and my ass is chaffing or some shit, so I guess its normal?
But my knees? Its fine to get some pain while I get used to biking right? When I first started running everything hurt, first it was ankles, then knees, then ankles again, it took me months for everything to stop hurting, now I run without any pain but I got fat as shit again and its really tough on me, thats why I got a bike. I adjusted seat and ride height by looking at online guides and asking a friend, and I think its fine? But my though process is that biking is supposed to be easier on you, but I still get a bit of knee pain after a ride (like when I get up after taking a shit), it will go away in a week or two right? Or am I doing some REALLY wrong
>>
>>2028815
I must also add that I push myself during my rides, I am not just casually going to the shop in the straightest land on earth, I do for example 42mins with 155bpm pulse average and 180 max, I try to go as fast as I can generally, I am not that big of a cripple
>>
>>2028815
First, I pretty much never have knee pain unless I push a hard gear. Even when I start back up. I am considered "obese" by the BMI stats.
Second, I would recommend standing up climbs, or shifting into an easier gear and spinning. You can use more of your heart that way, and switching from standing to seated spinning uses different muscles. Heck if you get really good you can target what muscles you focus on. Since you are a runner your hamstrings and calves should be strong, so try using those.
One thing you can do is move fore and aft in the seat, that helps too.

A little pain isn't bad, but if it lasts a day into the next then you are pushing too heavy of a gear, and if it lasts from ride to ride it's too much.

Pushing yourself is good but if you notice pain too frequently add in an "easy" ride in between, one thing you can do is on "easy" days ride longer. Like 1.25-1.5x the distance, your body will adapt in endurance more on those days, and the others you can go for raw speed.
>>
>>2028815
knee pain could be from not having your saddle height correct. it looks like you have it pretty low assuming that frame fits you correctly . like, when you walk, you don't bend your knees all that much, you mostly swing your legs from your hips. if you bent your knees way down and tried to walk, it'd be awkward and you wouldn't be able to do it right and you'd probably give up but if you kept doing it it'd be painful. the bike seat makes it possible for you to hold your weight while your knees are really bent, but it's not the right way.

saddle fit is hard to get right and usually involves some trial and error but even if it's perfect, the ass flesh over the "sit bones" of your hip which contact the saddle will be tender for a while.
read this post and the four under it: >>2027967
>>
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>>2028820
could be seat height, guess you are right
I adjusted it at first so it was a bit lower so I could learn to ride easier (could reach ground easier)
then I raised it a bit some rides ago, but I guess not enough?
I saw those posts yesterday, or the day before that actually, another reason why I raised it
guess I will try again tomorrow lol
I cant wait desu, I love biking in the aspect of going into bumps and depressions, the same way I love cars because of how they handle, I didnt expect to be this excited about biking
I have a lot of dirt roads near me and I cant wait to ride them once I get better and the weather stops being shit and it doesnt get dark immidetly after I get off work
attached is my first fall - I got too excited and misgudged the muddiness during my second real run
>>
>>2028815
Comfort is a continued pursuit. There is a point where the body adjusts to a fit but there's a limit and if the pain feels like it's coming from the bones then the fit is wrong. The only kind of pain you should feel is muscle soreness, anything else is wrong fit. Now it's very difficult to achieve proper fit because it will drift over time and just be adjusted as your capabilities improve. Anyways, with seeing you on the bike it's hard to tell how your fit actually works but from initial impressions I'm your photo, I'm going to meme
>saddle too low
>bars too high
You're not getting full leg extension, forcing a lot of power through your knees while it's bent, that's why it hurts. Your ass also hurts because your bars are higher than your saddle which puts all the weight on your ass and less on your hands. Proper fit balance front and rear weight distribution, you're supposed to be riding, not driving.
>>
>>2028822
>just be adjusted as your capabilities improv
*must be adjusted as your capabilities improve
>>
>>2028822
>Anyways, without seeing you on the bike it's hard to tell how your fit actually works but from initial impressions in your photo
Fixed more, sorry tablet posting and my auto correct setting is all stupid
>>
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>>2028822
thank you, I am phoneposting and its even worse for me, I had to fix 5 mistakes in this sentance alone, 6 now

I have been wondering about my bars, they do feel a bit further than they need to be, so I guess its another sign of a low seat post?
the lower sized frame was from something to 175cm, I am a bit above that so I went with the larger frame, I wonder if it was a mistake sometimes, I generally like smaller, lighter things and I am more on the side it was a mistake not going the smaller frame
again thanks to you and >>2028820
I will rise my seat tomorrow and go for a RIDE
>>
>>2028650
Well the answer is more boring than you’d think, it’s whatever results in the cheapest cost for all humans involved. If the customers start paying more, then making products for sale technically becomes a more efficient use of your time; you could spend that extra profit on whatever more-efficient endeavors you have. Yeah an hour of human effort will never beat a gallon of gasoline, but that’s not how we’re defining efficient
>>
>>2028829
>my bars, they do feel a bit further than they need to be, so I guess its another sign of a low seat post?
if the bars still feel reach-y after you raise the saddle, you can always get a smaller stem. the height of the stem can be adjusted by removing spacers below it.
just try stuff until it feels better. then after 6 months/year, try stuff again since your body is more adapted.
good luck and happy riding
>>
I'm moving to the high desert of California and I'll be riding on dirt roads like pic related.

What would your ideal bike build be for this terrain in combination with some asphalt riding? I'm particularly interested in tires size and tread.

I think I will go with drop bars because they can have incredibly high winds at times. I'm also considering full fenders to keep the sand out of my drivetrain
>>
>>2028849
Get hardpack XC tires and avoid roads that look like that
>>
>>2028851
I want to take those roads to avoid getting run over by a drink meth head doing 75mph on a straight way
>>
>>2028849
rigid bike with 2.0+in tires and a hardpack/close smol knob tread design.
More sand=more volume, more hardpack/ road= less(to within reason).
>>2028852
I would do the same. Especially if you are in like east of LA territory where trevor from GTA5 might just run your ass over.
Just run easy gears since sand can slow you right the fuck down.
>>
Is there a reverse of pic related?
Instead of converting forkend into vertical droupout I want to convert my vertical dropout into something that would allow me to tension the chain without use of tensioner.
>>
>>2028863
Salsa had a bunch of bikes with that as an option last time l checked https://www.salsacycles.com/gear/parts
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>>2028863
You could use an eccentric hub
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>>2028767
The one that holds the cable. It snapped off after I tightened the bolt. I'm gonna try using JB weld. Surely 5000 psi is enough to hold it in place.
>>
>trying out cleats for a month now
>My foot hurts like hell, especially the arch
>no matter the clear position I try it's still the same
My right foot seems fine but my left one is in constant pain. It also feels like I'm using my calf too much. I also noticed that I put more pressure on my big toe on my left foot compared to my right foot which distributes the pressure evenly on all toes.
What can I do? My shoes are a size too big, do you think going the right size would help out?
>>
>>2028863
>>2028870
there's also eccentric bottom brackets. VO makes one but they're sold out at present
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>>2028871
if you're too poor to buy a new derailleur, which aren't very expensive except at the high/mid-high end, then look around for a bike co-op near you
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>>2028872
>I also noticed that I put more pressure on my big toe on my left foot compared to my right foot which distributes the pressure evenly on all toes
funny, I've noticed the same thing when I ride my fast bike.
not outright painful but borderline, the focused pressure stresses the foot/calf more than the other side. the pain is only very slight after, say, 20 miles.
I've been making a conscious effort to mirror the foot pressure on the good side to my stressed side, which takes effort and feels weird, but seems to help although I subconsciously go back to stressing it and repeat the process.

I wonder what this is? and like you, it's my left foot. I also happen to be left-footed/left-handed. you, too?

I don't use foot retention, so can't help you there
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>>2028872
>I also noticed that I put more pressure on my big toe on my left foot compared to my right foot which distributes the pressure evenly on all toes.
i'm the opposite, its my right foot but it shows up in all my shoes, slippers - first part to wear out is near my big toe. its just how i walk i guess. it doesn't seem to bug me when i ride though
>>
Do they make thru-axle frames for rim brakes? I want a road bike with TA but I wanna have a fair weather bike with rimjobs so I don't have to feel that icky wind-up shudder
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>>2028886
You might be the only person on earth that wants that. What's wrong with regular axles again?
>>
>>2028887
It's all relative I guess, but having had both QR and TA I think TA is objectively the superior system aside from the annoyance of how every single bike has its own mystery parameters for the thread pitch and axle length and shit
>>
is this a good mountain bike for the price? I have a road bike and want a decent mountain bike for actual mountain biking..not sure what year it is, i just emailed and asked. Has a Deore groupset btw.
>I'm selling my Marin Nail Trail 9.6. It's a 29er mountain bike with a great set of components.

The bike says that it's a Medium, but it feels more like a large. I'm 5'10" and I think it would work for someone as tall as 6'.

The bike shifts gears and brakes very, very well. As I mentioned earlier, it has a great set of components, and it just feels super solid when you're riding it.

The bicycle has a Rockshox air fork, hydraulic disc brakes, a thru-axle on the front wheel, 3x9 gears, upgraded pedals, an upgraded seat/saddle, and an aftermarket chain slap protector.

Rockshox is a leader in fork technology, and an air fork makes the front of the bike lighter and MUCH more maneuverable, as well as extremely adjustable. I have a pump that will allow me to adjust the bike to your weight if you're interested.

The hydraulic brakes are super responsive and solid. And hydraulic brakes allow you to just use a single finger on the brake lever while all the rest are holding onto the handlebars during your ride!

A thru-axle on the front allows for greater strength, rigidity, and control during your ride.

I'm asking $475.
>>
>>2028891
No dropper, 3x drivetrain
Worth like $300 IMO

Probably paid $700 for it new, depreciation is a bitch
>>
>>2028892
thanks. curious whats wrong with a 3x chainring? and why is a dropper good? im looking for a good hardtail, any bikes you'd reccomend?
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>>2028889
You can get these and pretend they are TA
>>
is this a good bike for 500 dollars. its a Cannondale CAAD X. was looking for a bike that can do a mix of road and offroad/trail, not full on mountain biking. its not gravel its a CX bike. thoughts?
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>>2028895
3x chainrings can allow the chain the drop when jiggled extremely hard, and 1x chainrings don’t drop chains due to a few design choices (narrowide chain/ring, clutched derailleur cage, synchronized cage and parallelogram movement) and still give you “enough” gear range (an average 3x8 is somewhere around 600-700% range, where a 1x12 offers 500-520% range). The chain retention is the big one, if you jiggle your bike enough that chains drop, you NEED 1x for safety

A dropper post automatically raises and lowers your seat with a handlebar button like an office chair; it’s very important to get the seat out of your way when doing gnarly downhill, but it’s also very important to be able to sit and pedal on a fully extended seatpost, a dropper lets you switch seat heights without stopping your bike
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>>2028921
i see, thanks. ill only look for a 1x chainring. didnt know about dropper posts they sound great. is that CX bike i posted decent? and if you would, whats a /n/ approved hardtail MTB?
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>>2028849
>desert

Follow up: What is the best deal on a drop-bar frame with 3.0" tires right now? My research is saying 3.0" for the conditions I'll be riding in, maybe even fatter.

I never thought I would actually need a meme bike but here I am
>>
>>2028922
You don't need 1x for safety unless you are him.
The real difference is one is newer then the other, so 1x bikes are generally new and up to date then 3x, and/or more gravity focused.
If you just want to ride around town, do xc, or ride to trails+mtb 3x is great, but if you plan on doing hardcore stuff 1x is better.
>>2028919
It's fine. Seems a little expensive to me, but it has modern parts(somewhat) and your area may cost more.
>good
aluminum cannondale(they have/had some of the best aluminum frames since they started in the 80's)
cx bikes are pretty fun on the road, and trails
reasonable tire clearence for road, and easy trails(check, but probably around 37-40mm max)
disk brakes
>con
weird flat bars so if you ever want to do road drop bars the cost will be prohibitive
kinda lame paintjob
>>
>>2028926
cmon, you know you would. im not a fan of the flatbars either and just found out the shifters for drop bars are different so yea itd be pricey. guess ill keep looking unless he has the original bars+shifters included
>>
>>2028876
I can actually afford one and I currently use an old shimano derailleur as a replacement for it. I just want to keep it because of the brand. Sadly, there are no bike coops where I live.
>>
why does nobody do electronic shifting that works off a dynamo and wired connection
imagine the money you could get from surlyfags
>>
>>2028941
It's a fine bike if you REALLY want it. I just would rather get a cheap 26er and a seperate road bike
>>2028944
stash it for later.
>>
>>2028941
Could always go surly corner bars if you don’t mind making the bike weird, but unless you get Chinese versions it’ll probably be as expensive as changing to brifters
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>>2028950
dynamos are cool. electric shifting is meh, maybe theres something to it, but the fact that its all wireless is just to complex for me to care about
do you really get that much extra out of electronic shifting? i don't want to throw away the whole idea because it seems to allow you to be very precise. kinda like tuning a carb vs just having fuel injection (sorry for the car comparison but thats how i view it)
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>>2028950
It would be easy to wire a di2 set up like this
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Sup anons.
I have a question. Shimano has two types of front derailleurs - For 63-66 and 66-69 angles. Am I doing it right? Is that the angle shimano is talking about? If so - the derailleur for this particular bike would be 66-69 one, correct?

If I'm wrong - what's the correct way? I've read that 63-66 are for hardtails and 66-69 are for full suspension bikes, but holy shit, every bike I've measured this way has the angle wider than 66 degrees - EXCEPT some full suspension MTBs. I'm confused.
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>>2029057
bump for interest.
never heard of any of this
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>>2029110
>bump
>/n/
anon this board moves slower than a retard with training wheels. also interested otherwise lol
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>>2029057
Hardtails and full suspension bikes don’t have clamp-on front derailleurs anymore. There are many different ways to attach a front derailleur to a bike, a clamp on the seattube is one way and “needs” different derailleur models to account for drastically different seattube angles that would result in the front derailleur being essentially behind the chainring
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>>2029057
Front derailleurs are like $4 these days anyways, just get both and give the wrong one to a bike co-op/recycler (or go to the bike co-op first and ask them for the part, those places literally specialize in outdated cheap stuff)
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Is this warped rim fucked? Pic is with 0 tension. I imagine there's a possibility I or a bike shop could get it true with spoke tension, but if so, is the wheel perpetually going to have problems going out of true, spokes breaking, that sort of thing? My priority at this point is to have a wheel that just werks until the brakes wear the rim down.
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>>2029212
you can manually push the rim against something stable on those 3 bad spots until the rim pretty close to straight again before you bring the tension back up and get it completely true
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>>2029110
IMO get an old derailleur if you are doing a weird/custom setup like a triple with friction shifting.
Get a new derailleur to match your crank and shifter that fits well.
All the weird shift aids in modern FD's make the cage weird and work worse on odd setups that are out of the original scope.
>>2029212
Like the other anon said, bend the rim straight.
Oh, but watch the section the rim joins together, if you bend it too much a gap will form and you want that flush for your braking.
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>>2029212
you took the worst angle pic possible but yeah that looks warped to me. put it on a fork and rotate it, how does it spin?
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>>2029212
actually, the more i look, the worse it appears. yeah its new wheel time. you might be able to save that one if you're a tinkerer and wanna mess with it. but thats unsafe to use..don't ride on it.
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Thanks to all who said to adjust my seat height
knees hurt no more
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>>2029219
I'm riding a rim for over ten years now after it was hit by a car and was way worse than his. you bend it back and then retension and true. this is how I was taught by a reputable repair manual. it is uncontroversial and common. his is barely warped. quit talking about shit you don't know about.
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>>2029290
great! happy riding
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>>2029293
>just ride this unsafe rim bro
i said keep it for tinkering, maybe it can be saved. once the hoop is warped its usually not worth the trouble
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>>2029309
the point is it's not unsafe.
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>went out for a ride Sunday afternoon
>went out with intentions of taking 1st place on a difficult to access segment
>The route involves riding through an old abandoned torn up quad trail
>Downed trees, gut busters, swamp, shrubbery, and tall grass for ~3 miles
>last time I went out landed myself in 3rd, only a few seconds behind first
>made it to the start of the segment, the return point
>chain broke on an easy uphill section

Is the KMC X9 a bad chain? Should I replace it with something more stout for the type of riding I'm doing? Chain has less than 150 miles and was kept fairly clean and lubricated.
>Wasn't shifting under load, no indication of it trying to hop gears
>Input effort wasn't extreme
I believe it broke from side loading, but I don't know why. I found remnants of what I believe to be a twig in the cassette. If a packed in twig did break it, how the hell do I prevent that from happening again? There was no warning, it just let go.

Ended up walking out
>Never encountered anyone during my 2hr walk to the road to be picked up

And on that note, what toolkits are you guys running on the trails? In the years of riding I've only ever had to deal with flats and bent components. I've never broken a chain.
>>
I tried a modern road bike a few days ago and I'm blown away by how much faster and easier it is to ride than my hybrid.
Even the drops feel very comfortable despite me thinking of them as unusable in the cities.
I just need the weather to get a bit better..
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>>2028591
What tire size does it use?
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>>2029412
dude, just have a spare link with you. or 10.
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>>2029416
Yeah it's really fun going fast. I like cruising too, but fast is fun. Getting in the drops and pedalling downhill is great. Standing uphill is fun too, generally if you run 1 gear you can shift twice harder and stand with it being pretty seamless.

>>2029412
Bring a spare link like the other anon said. I have had kmc chains work fine, the only chains that failed me were due to neglect, or not loosening up a chain right post adjustment.

Still, I would get a different 9 speed chain since you had a bad experience. I like sram and shimano.
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>>2029428
26 inch
I used to run 26x1.5 on it but this time around I'm going with 26x1.75
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>>2029412
>>2029437
it has been said that kmc chains have been bootlegged for many years now. if you buy the cheapest kmc you can find, it's a likelihood it's fake.
I buy mine from the kmc store on scamazon, I guess that (probably) means it's legit. it wasn't the cheapest one, but still pretty cheap. one assumes that the real kmc would have noticed a fake Amazon store called kmc by now, that's pretty visible
>>
is clipless really faster than flats for a road bike? or is it just a crutch or comfort thing
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>>2029512
>reasons you COULD be faster with clipless
better/easier hamstring engagement(inb4 you only use the quad muscle+glutes)
locked in foot to pedal, some say that helps on curvy descents and control
stiffer shoes(generally true)
more aero
easier to spin fast(definitely true)

Many of these can be explained with clips as well(old school).

>reasons pinned flats are better
bigger platform so no hotspots+your feet can go where it's comfy
easier to walk in the shoes, even spd mtb shoes aren't as comfy as your generic shoes
cheaper since you can run basic shoes+10-20 dollar flats, instead of 20-50 dollar pedals+clipless shoes


There you go. In my mind a rider would run flats unless they wanted to try clipless, or got serious about competitive riding or high cadence riding.
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>>2029428
Although I will say that it's definitely got clearance for 27.5, I'd just have to use some brake mount adapters to get the positioning right.
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>>2029512
>>2029514
First anon got this, but I'd add to the list that foot retention gives you a lot more confidence to sprint out of the saddle. And keeping your foot in place on the pedal while backpedaling is a big advantage on a curvy descent on the road, or through rough sections offroad, or just maneuvering at slower speeds anywhere.

>>2029416
do it, road bikes are fun

>>2029212
If the rim itself is taco'ed sometimes the last resort solution is to smash the offending area into a hard surface and see if you can get it back into more or less alignment. It's worth trying if the wheel is clearly gone past the point of being trueable and you have nothing left to lose. I have salvaged wheels this way multiple times both on the side of the road after a crash and in shops for customers.

>>2028950
Dynamo has drag all the time and requires a dedicated wheel. Shimano already has the dynamo powered CUES Q'auto Di2, but it's a niche product meant for low-maintenance bikes with automatic shifting for casual riders, not for performance applications.
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>>2028950
Yeah, now instead of running wires from the battery to the components, you have to run it from the fucking front hub. How cool!
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>>2029554
nah you already have a wire that goes to the fork you just need a connection from the head tube to the A junction in a touring bike your probably already have a battery in the steerer
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>>2029554
rear dynohub
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thoughts on the Sunrace RD M10? is it a decent enough derailleur for a neo retro road bike for $10?
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>>2029571
They're heavy and clunky, but if you don't care about either of those things they get the job done as long as you have a relatively close range freewheel/cassette.
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>>2029554
The battery is already on the component and the component is already on the rear hub I don’t understand what kind of wiring harness you’re expecting here
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>>2029571
Man that looks exactly like a Shimano Skylark. That's like a 60 year old design; it's probably fine as long as they didn't cheap out on the construction
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I have an Oxylane Tilt 500 folding bike (It's a cheapo store own brand bike, nothing special) and I need to order a new back wheel for it. What one should I order here, do I need something special or otherwise specific or should I grab the first 20 inch rim rear wheel I see for sale online?
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>>2029571
>neo retro
bro, that derailleur is straight retro.
Neo retro would be something from the late 2000's/early 2010's with silver+blac
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>>2029531
>do it, road bikes are fun
okay, buying a road bike soon
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>>2029588
Lots of 20" wheels are made for BMX bikes and kids bikes and will only accept a single cog or singlespeed freewheel, so make sure sure you get a wheel that's meant for a multispeed freewheel.
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>>2029588
so, the idea is to put your existing tire/tube and gear cluster on the new wheel and stick it on? everything stays the same?
the width of the rim should be the same or pretty close to accommodate the tire. I doubt there's a lot of options for 20", my assumption is that every 20" wheel will work with your tire, but this could be an issue if the width is several sizes off.
second, the hub has to be compatible with your gear cluster. there are 2 kinds. I searched around but couldn't find a pic or listing that showed what you have, but I'm guessing the hub is threaded and your cluster is a freewheel. the other kind is a freehub that accepts a cassette cluster. your new wheel needs to match what you have, and also, pulling off the existing cluster to swap it over requires a special tool either way. these tools aren't expensive. or, you can give the old and new wheel to a shop and they can swap the tire and gears over to the new wheel and charge a half hour worth of labor.

you can get a wheel that is different if you want to upgrade to different tire sizes and/or gearing, but buying all that stuff is more than just what a wheel costs. you might also need a new derailleur (and maybe shifter) for certain upgrades
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>>2029621
>>2029624
It's exactly this but the branding is now Oxylane and they switched away from the name Btwin.

It's 7 speed, but I only ever use 6th gear. A prankster could superglue my shifter and I wouldn't notice.
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>>2029647
I should prob also mention that I'm already stretching my knowledge of bikes and the lingo used here, I'm not knowledgeable at this.
For example while looking at potential wheels on Amazon as I don't know where else to look, I don't know the difference between single wall and double wall wheel rims.
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>>2029621
BMX hubs also have narrower spacing
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>>2029647
yeah, I looked it up, but you can't tell the hub type from any of the pictures on the web. none of the advertising lists if it's freewheel or cassette. but you could get any cassette wheel with your hub width (so, not bmx) and if it turns out your gears are freewheel you can just buy a comparable cassette. this method would also allow you to put one cog on it equal to your 6th gear and fill the rest of the cassette with spacers. you could then remove the derailleur and shifter for weight savings. I think you could leave them in place if you're super lazy. you would need a single speed chain and possibly need a different width chainring on the crank but I'm pretty sure the existing one would work.

the path of least resistance would be to just get the exact same wheel and reuse the gears you have, though. and also, the more you ride, the more you will see the wisdom in using multiple gears. they were invented and became popular for a very good reason.

if you can't figure out if you have a freewheel or cassette from doing more research than I did, you can show it to someone you know/a shop and they can tell you, or you can take the wheel off the frame and show us a pic of the gears from straight on.
maybe someone else here can ID it from internet pics, but I'm not sure myself.
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>>2029648
double wall, unsurprisingly, was created to be stronger. the only reason to get single is cost (and weight I suppose, but your bike is not high performance enough for that to be a factor).
go for double. the internal width is what you want to be near-ish in order to reuse your existing tire and tube, which will be available in both versions. there's nothing really wrong with single especially on a small 20" rim since inherently smaller is much stronger, but there's no good reason not to get double, either
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>>2029672
should add, I *think* you have a freewheel because you have a solid axle with hex nuts, that's the cheaper option and so are freewheels, so usually they would go together nowadays. but I have an old freewheel bike with a hollow axle and quick release instead of hex nuts. I suppose it's possible your bike came with a cassette even though it's a nutted axle, although I've never heard of that
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>>2029672
>>2029674
Thanks, is there anything at all I can do on my end that would 100% for sure clear up all confusion, and we'd know exactly what I should buy here?
Also, are there any online retailers in the UK that sell bike wheels you or anyone else would recommend?
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>>2028871
Update. After 24 hours, it still snapped off.
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>>2029680
pic related. this is what the different systems look like. the whole freewheel cluster unscrews from the hub and the spinny, clicky part is inside the gear cluster. the cassette's little cog unscrews from the very end of the cluster, then all the cogs slide off of the hub and the spinny part is inside the hub. the fittings for the tools are different.

once we're for sure its a freewheel or cassette, shopping around is easy. but unless you want to also buy the tool for gear removal and installation, and possibly a big wrench to turn it, you're going to have to take it to a shop anyway. the shop may sell you a wheel and installation for a good price, who knows?

but if you do want to buy the tool and diy, that's fine. there's different freewheel tools. I believe all cassette tools are the same but you have a Shimano hub so buy compatible with Shimano, which is most common anyway.

velomine is known for cheap wheels. this model is currently their only 20" that takes a 7 speed freewheel .
https://velomine.com/products/wheel-master-rear-bicycle-wheel-20-x-1-75-36h-steel-bolt-on-silver
so look around for that price range. amazon is fine for what you need, too; or in the US, I like modernbike.com

figure out cassette or freewheel, then anything 20" that takes 7 speed (the sizing is the same for 5/6/7 so it'll usually be listed like that) and it'll say 135 Over Locknut Distance (O.L.D.) but as long as it says 7 speed, it's good. 135 OLD could be built for 8/9/10 cassettes. I don't think freewheels go that high but anyway, go by the speed listing
>>
I tried to install a new cassette, sram one and it is not straight at all a bit wobbly and I am trying to remove it now but it is stuck, did I fuck it up?
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>>2029757
You probably forgot the wave washer or something
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>>2029758
Is it required for a 12 speed rival? There weren't any included
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>>2029757
>>2029758
>>2029760
Removed it but still don't get it, the sram video of the installation for 12speed XDR has no washer installed
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>>2029757
is it the cassette installation that made it wobbly or is the freehub fucked? take the cassette off and spin the hub and make sure that's not it. possibly the axle is broken although that usually happens on freewheel hubs, grab the end and try wiggling it. iunno, it's probably not either of those but I'd check it out to be sure.
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>>2029767
Installed it a few times now and always bottoming out on the threads like the video instructions of installation but there is like 0.5 to 1.0mm of slight wobble on the outer chain ring, dunno if that is due to it being deformed from shipping since it's made out of aluminium compared to the rest of the rings, all other rings seem to be spinning straight with no wobble.
I will try riding it later.

Regarding the hub it doesn't wiggle at all
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>>2029743
Here's the best picture I have of it. I think that's a cassette based on your picture but don't quote me on that.
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>>2029769
can't see shit, captain.
you're gonna have to take it off the bike to change it anyway, so just do it.
it is extremely likely it's freewheel since it's a low-end bike and only 7 speed but I just don't want to say for certain without laying eyes on it
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>>2029770
>you're gonna have to take it off the bike to change it anyway, so just do it.
I'll be taking it to a shop to get it done, I'm just buying the wheel ahead of time so I'm sure I have it.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=20+inch+bike+wheel+rear+7+speed+steel&crid=PU2ICR8Z6V41&qid=1735939688&rnid=389114011&sprefix=20+inch+bike+wheel+rear+7+speed+stee%2Caps%2C235&ref=sr_nr_p_36_1_0&low-price=22&high-price=56
They're throwing so many similar options at me that I'm not entirely sure what I should be looking for, beyond 20 inches and silver.
>>
Would a tire with a valve of 48mm be enough for a wheel that is 40mm in height?
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>>2029773
A follow up question, my wheels have inner width of 21mm and outer width of 28mm and the tubes I have are for 700x35 to 700x42 is that too big? I am going to use gravel tyres that are 700x40c
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>>2029773
the rule is rim depth + 15mm

>>2029775
should be ok, if the options are slightly too small or slightly too large, the former is much better, but as long as you're diligent about avoiding pinches a little over is usually fine
>>
Just ordered my first road bike. Been riding a hybrid bike for years casually. Should I go with SPD or SPD-SL pedals?
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>>2029781
spd-sl if you put out lots of power/don't walk much. If you walk a lot spd for sure
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>>2029782
I've heard SPD is easier to clip in and out of, is this true? My normal routes involve a few red lights so I'd be unclipping quite frequently
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>>2029784
spd is easier to adjust the tension, and has 2 sides to clip in so it's easier.
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>>2029777
Thank you, what butyl tubes recommend you? I have tried latex and liked it but gotten too many punctures
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>>2029781
start with SPD until you're used to clipless, then if you want an upgrade, get speedplays
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>>2029787
if you're running 700x40 you might as well just go toobless unless you're really REALLY riding in a totally unpopulated area where your life depends on it, in which case the increased susceptability to flats is an acceptable tradeoff next to the ability to recover from the worst flats

if you must go toobs get TPU and carry TPU-specific patches
>>
>>2029588
>>2029647
>>2029769
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hard-find-bike-parts-CASSETTE/dp/B0B7RXXMVQ/ref=sr_1_17?crid=3HDN5KYFGC1EE&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.xcyN1J3g3JeBt-LC7HX4dFnsB0fpjA_1EnkSGUl6UzeIIq5s7fFw6riuHM4Bog99icXZDWHX_6_itTgcLSFtWa9fE9xYhE8zD2MZ96IC0GgCo537qZEWOojLD4rAqqAZ1TSQKiYWsVgQuitQPdWLYXaEAEoiZ4NXtP75lLHMdcU3cOgTLyRIb-ZJ06VUoZfsGg-1WPkXsK6LC6GVMihI42F9qoVz24B0AxpURjYwH4Y.OPbJtl5hOwgfe_WR5_OZvYJBQWMNQRMRDZH3iqlUocw&dib_tag=se&keywords=20+inch+folding+bike+rear+wheel&nsdOptOutParam=true&qid=1735974955&refinements=p_36%3A2000-6200&rnid=389114011&s=sports&sprefix=20+inch+folding+bike+rear+wheel%2Csports%2C115&sr=1-17&xpid=NU7pyHdCAxqdZ
Is this what I need, guys? I'm genuinely lost as to what I need exactly.
>>
Moving to Amsterdam need to get a bike, what do you recommend for NL riding anons?
>>
My seat post keeps slipping down slowly, the screw to tighten it I think needs a 3mm allen key but every attempt at tightening it sees to key just slip and won't tighten, while a 4mm is too big to fit at all.

Tried using pliers but they can't grab the sides of the screw effectively, what options if any do I have?
>>
>>2029803
just pull one out of a canal
>>
>>2029814
sometimes the bolts are in half sizes. locate a 3.5 wrench and try that
>>
i got this creaking/grinding noise while i am pedaling/accelerating. i had rode through saltwater a couple times in the past few months, and i ride near the beach a lot, so i thought it was the bottom bracket getting corroded by saltwater or sand. so i replaced it, and i still have this noise. what else could it be?
>>
>>2029833
the usual suspects are loose bolts on the chainring and/or the saddle rails. they creak when you lay down power and people assume it's the bottom bracket.
>>
>>2029801
You're a special kind of retard, aren't you? You need COMPLETE spoonfeeding because you don't have the mental capacity to do some research yourself. You don't have any tools needed to do your own work.
Now you're too dumb to post a clean link to a product you found. Look at all that telemetry data; that link is a disgrace.



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