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Work in Progress, "I need your clothes, your boots, and your motorcycle!" Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin:
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>Darren Latham's 20 top tips for miniature painting success
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ERXNObqeNb8

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

>Previous Threads:
>>93345597
>>93329462
>>93304016
>>93285775
>>
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Reposting p'orcs for feedback
>>
>>93366188
Love the colors anon, very good work. Couple things though:
>purples seem to be lacking highlights
>worried that some of the base foliage might be too much depending on the games being played
>>
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working on a second painboy. Does this look enough like a syringe?
>>
>>93366478
It probably does to an Ork so it's Gud Enuff
>>
>>93366478
Yeah looks cool, I like how he holds the syringe like he's going to stab someone with it, which he probably will.
>>
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Can I get a skin rating? I am aware it's a little scratchy.
>>
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>>93360148
same, saw some LGS guys streaming the game and it looked fun, ez to paint too
>>93360967
thanks ye

callin him done aside from varnish and painting rim
not sure if I want them all on nondescript mud or if I'll mess around with static grass but
>>
>>93366552
A+ and I bet it looks awesome on the table
>>
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I'm having trouble with colors and could use a weigh-in. I love the classic ogre skin, and in all the box art and even this guide it really seems like a green toned grey. However, this mixing guide doesn't have any green in it - closest thing is kommando khaki (now zandri dust). Is the perceived green like a printing artifact? Is the yellow from the khaki mixing with blue tones in grey to make green? Are these ogres not actually green at all and I'm just stupid?

Also, I can't help but think there's an easier way to go about this. My gut says prime with rattlecan zandi dust and contrast with ratling grey, but I also have a nagging feeling that won't work at all, though I can't put a finger on exactly why it wouldn't work. I've ordered some test models and intend to post experiment results in a few days. In the meantime, any other ideas worth trying?
>>
>>93366216
I think some of the purple highlights are hidden/washed out in the photo, but I'll probably touch them up again. So you think it would look weird if I took some scissors to the foliage?
>>
>>93366478
A good paint job is needed,but it does look like an orky syringe
>>
>>93365845
Got back into mini painting after a year long hiatus. Made this lava dude for Frosthaven.
>>
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>>93366659
it seems like the grey paint they mixed on the left and that example shoulder in the lower left don't really match with the ogres on the right, but if it's different, why would they publish it like that?
>>
I can't find the /3dpg/ thread, might just be retarded.

I used to have a Mars 3 but the screen cracked twice somehow.

I just moved and had to pack up everything, which reminded me of the printer.

Instead of fixing the screen (which I couldn't find replacements of easily and my warranty is out) I ended up upgrading to a Saturn 4 pro.

Real excited to get back into model printing/painting, and with the bigger screen it should be a lot easier to print large models like vehicles and terrain! :)
>>
>>93366683
Yep, he's a lava dude.
My only complaint is that his skin should be darker on the knuckles and brighter in the joints between the fingers as lava cools as it reaches the surface, as backwards as that can seem when it comes to regular highlighting.
>>
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>>93365845
I need to get a better chair for when I paint. Sitting in my hard bottom chair for hours painting keeps making the head of my dick go completely numb for a few hours. Other than just being an odd ass sensation, I figure that might be nerve damage if ignored long enough.
So what kind of chair do you guys use when painting?
>>
>>93366714
I'm kinda in the same boat, I've replaced my screen twice and it's tempting to upgrade.

my FDM ones also need work
>>
>>93366723
Fuck, you make a really good point.
Let me get back to it.
>>
>>93366568
I love these little niggas like you wouldnt believe
>>
>>93366754
>my FDM ones also need work
I bought an Ender 3 in 2020 for Christmas and got it to work twice. Spent like 60 hours cumulatively trying to get it to print but it will never stick. Some anons have told me they sell ones broken out the box so that might have been how mine was.

It's a shame too because they seem great for terrain.
>>
>>93366659
Work smarter not harder and just get VMC Green Grey. I was going to say be careful because there's actually two VMC paints called Green Grey but I just checked the chart for the new VMC and they've thankfully changed the name of one of them to Light Green Grey. Get both and highlight the darker one with the lighter one. Just keep in mind if you check a store that still has stock of the old VMC that they're both called Green Grey even though they have different numbers.

>>93366687
The actual unit was probably painted by someone else much earlier. Then the tutorial was just someone making something up. I think a lot of GW's tutorials in that era were like that. I remember back when GW had painting tutorials on their website and I was looking at their Blood Angels tutorial and it was absolutely nothing like the actual models they showed everywhere else. Sometimes I think the tutorials are just aimed at people for whom trying to exactly match the studio scheme might be too difficult and sometimes it might just be that they don't know/remember how it was done.
>>
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>>93366822
my ender 3 is something I always have to tinker with but it's cheap and cheerful and has taught me a lot

my ancient lulzbot taz 6 can't seem to auto level and I'm wondering if a wire is loose somewhere. The thing has been a workhorse for years so I'd like to get it up and running again. Here's a board I made last year with stuff I printed on it (plus grit and paint obviously)
>>
What are some alternative colors for warpstone/radioactive rocks than your typical green? I'm worried that other colors won't read as toxic/radioactive
>>93366733
Nice work anon!
>>
CA glue or gorilla glue for gluing pinned metal joins?
>>
>>93366965
Ca glue. I generally have little stainles steel dishes I put the super glue in and use a tooth pick as a brush to get the glue onto the toothpick and then carefully apply it to the joints of a resin or metal part so there isn't too much superglue that would produce that white dust.
>>
>>93366552
He looks like he needs to hydrate. A little red in the shading would have been better, but I wouldn't add that after the fact. The shading being the same color but darker always get a little drab.
>>
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>>93365845
I'm thinking about adding rocks to my bases which is essentially a modified default 'eavy metal brown base GW uses on its webstore.

Do garden centres sell slate pieces small enough for 28mm scale miniatures or am I going to have to buy slate from a hardware store and then smash it with a hammer?
Or get Armypainter battlefield cork rocks for the support the LGS meme and cut each piece in half so it has a flat surface to glue to the base?
>>
>>93367075
I'd go with cork. Rocks are harder to glue on and easier to knock off.
>>
>>93366739
I saw some halfway-decent office chairs up for Prime Day on Amazon. I'm full up on them here, or else I would've bought another.

Staples occasionally has a fair deal, too, especially if you can combine Easy Rewards with a coupon gained by turning in old technology for E-cycling.

Also, if you have a Sam's Club membership, they sometimes have good prices on nice chairs as well. I'd look for a webbed back, padded seat, wheeled base, and adjustable height.

Don't forget the hard plastic floor mat so you don't wreck up yer carpet.
>>
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What's the best way to make rivets of this size? Found on the Solar Auxilia Leman Russ
>>
>>93367075
Never use cork unless you’re going to ‘uncorkify’ it with texture paste but for loose rocks it’d be too much of an investment
Use plaster. Or bonsai rocks or crushed gravel (hobby or landscape store). You should be able to find various sizes.
Vidrel- plaster https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eeUDKdMF-bs
>>
>>93367075
As the other anon said, you can use cork. Another option is also plaster of paris. One trick is to get some aluminium foil, scrunch it all up so it has tons of texture, then unravel it again and use it to line an empty meat tray or something. Put the plaster in the foil-lined tray to set at a thickness of about 1cm or so (whatever sort of elevation you want for your rocks), then you can take it out and it'll have the texture from the foil and you can smash that up for rocks.
>>
>>93367129
Best way is 3D printed. Failing that an appropriately size punch and plasticard, though you wouldn’t have the rounded edge
>>
>>93367154
>One trick is to get some aluminium foil, scrunch it all up so it has tons of texture
The link I posted forms clean slabs but your idea is genius for irregular rocks
>>
>>93366996
Im not worried about the white residue. I figure that gorilla glue has flexibility so will be more resilient to drops and knocks.
>>
who cares about frosting from super glue? you just paint over that shit
>>
>80% complete on a project
>desire to start a new one intensifies
every time
>>
>>93366188
Every colour with the exception of your metallic is very very flat
>>
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>>93367075
Go to your local reptile supply store and ask for raw cork bark tubes/flats. You can break them up with a hammer/hands and slice pieces with a utility knife to fit wherever you need them to. Keep a hold of every tiny piece you knock off as it's always useful having tiny little rocks to glue on. Also make sure to pop it in your oven at a low temp to kill any crawlies as most reptile stores have a pretty rowdy feral cricket/spider population
>>
I'm painting boardgame minis as my first straight up miniatures and I gotta ask, how the fuck am I supposed to cover the area beneath a cape or cloak when I can't put even the thinnest of brushes in the gap between the body and cape/cloak, however, I can still SEE between the gap and the unpainted portion is making the OCD rise in me?
>>
>>93367422
Finish your work.
>>
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My dude here is slowly coming together. Haven’t been able to set a lot of time aside for painting due to some landscaping concerns soaking up my evenings, but I’m very happy with how everything is looking.

I have to finish up the cape (with accompanying flame pattern) along with the squig, but once I build up a custom basing setup I’ll do a few other small finishing touches as I see fit. Just happy to almost be done as I’m keen to start on some other minis I have prepped.
>>
>>93367496
paint that first so you can just paint over any spillage when squeezing the brush in
this is also why some people will tell you when assembling your own minis to paint things like that in sub-assemblies
>>
>>93367504
of course, leaving shit half done leads to madness.
>>
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Still working on my Cawdor gang. I gotta figure out fire. My torches on my penitence machine look like shit. Besides some details these guys are mostly done. Though I have a bunch of Warhammer fantasy flagellants and another box of cawdor gangers I wanna kit bash more of.
>>
Do you watch any streamers or particular YT channels? I actually watch AC Minis. Aaron Clark won bronze in the Horus Heresy category at Golden Demon earlier this year and he's a pretty cool dude.
>>
>>93367543
>Sub assembly
I wish I could, they are one solid piece. Doing HeroQuest stuff. I'm not giving too much of a shit about going into great detail, just hate having inaccessible areas still being visible. Elf cunts cloak, armor under forearms held close with dwarf, etc.
>>
>>93367523
End squig abuse
>>
>>93366815
there's something super appealing about them on a basic level that I can't place but I love them too
>>
>>93367699
They're derpy. Everyone loves derpy things.
>>
>>93366478
It's painfully off-center but it reads clearly as being a syringe. Other anons are probably correct, paint job will help, orky shit can be a little lopsided and it's fine.
>>
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Working on my next reaver upscale.
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I reposed all 6 joints on those legs.
Here I am harvesting the important details from which I'll form the torso.
>>
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Added small gold details I saw in some artwork. Also, slightly better lighting.

>>93367422
>not having at least three projects going each at 40%
>>
>>93367960
>he isn't paralyzed with indecision on the paint scheme/shade of paints for his minis
>this leaves his projects barely at 1%
get on my level.
>>
>>93367966
Joke‘s on you, I have stripped the paint off a half done GSC army but don’t line my new scheme either and now I still haven’t got a clue on how to paint them.
>>
>>93368046
I kneel.

In all seriousness should wargaming miniatures be brightly coloured for tabletop distance visibility or is it alright to just give them muted drab colours?
>>
>>93368098
Up to you, do you prefer the convenience of being able to see exactly whose units are where and what they are from any reasonable distance or do you prefer the prefer the realism of indistinct gray-brown blobs that are appropriately camouflaged from the enemy (and yourself).
>>
I overthinned all my citadel paints while transfering them into droppers.
What the fuck do I do now.
>>
>>93368098
For wargaming miniatures I give spot colors to help me pick out the ones with specialist equipment/tell some specialists away at a glance. They may not be fully blended with the rest of the scheme but really, the priority in that case is gaming. There are soldiers with bright blue helmets around the world right now.
>>
>>93368159
I prefer my guardsmen try and hit a balance of both drab colours and bright enough to be visibly seen.
But I see your point.
I'm paint stripping the test scheme guardsman and then going to repaint him in lighter colours.
>>
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>>93368290
Forgot pic.
>>
To any anon that plays Marvel Crisis Protocol, what paints are recommended for them, and also what color do you prime them in? First war game I'm trying so not sure if the general warhammer tips for painting I've seen applied or not
>>
>>93368376
>what paints are recommended for them
The ones that are readily available to you, and you enjoy how they behave

>what color do you prime them in
The appropriate one considering what the overall colour of the mini will be

Hope that helps
>>
>>93368376
All the same things apply. Don't buy Citadel paint, it's double the price for branding reasons. Since Marvel heroes are usually brightly colored, I recommend white primer.
>>
>>93368046
tfw
>4 started armies
>5 kits in various stages of completion
>around 10 unopened boxes
>only about 10 actually finished kits
I don't play tabletop so there's nothing rushing me I guess so I cycle between them to keep things fresh
>>
>>93368463
>Don't buy Citadel paint, it's double the price for branding reasons.

But their reds, man. Best red shades out there.
>>
>>93368502
>But their reds, man. Best red shades out there.
I'm Commander Red Paint Schizo, and I approve this message.
>>
>>93368502
AK and TTC both have excellent reds too. TTC is more expensive per ml than citadel but at least they come in droppers. There's literally no reason to get citadel over AK though
>>
>>93368170
>What the fuck do I do now
NOW you DON'T think your paints.
As an aside - you only realised this after finishing the whole lot?
>>
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Carrying on with learning zbrush to make some 3D printed minis
Horrendous video quality but that's fine
Done some mannequin posing so hopefully not too long before something that looks like a miniature
>>
>>93366848
>>93366687
>>93366659
Eavy Metal did the display minis used for the main photography but the Army Painting team did all the tutorial recipes and stuff, Sometimes they didn't even get proper notes from the EM team
>>
I'm new to the hobby, but I've watched a good amount of painting tutorials.
Starting with Reaper minis and AK paints from the LGS.
I'm thinning my paint down on my DIY wet palette and its either thin wash-like glazes or lumpy if I deliberately try not to thin the paints to a glaze.

Are these AK paints pre-thinned like airbrush marketed paints or am I just retarded?
Or both?
>>
>>93363740
Pose seems a bit schizo. Everything seems to be pointing in a different direction and the position of the arms don't gel at all with the direction of his movement.
>>
>>93367885
where did you get that razor saw or how can i search for it, i have only ever found the longuer ones
>>
>>93367495
>local reptile supply store
Always feel a little bad going to these niche small businesses and have 0 interest in what they're selling.
>>
>>93363740
cut off the arm spewing flies above the elbow and reposition it to be facing forward, that arm pointing out to the side totally ruins the posing's momentum
>>
>>93366659
Honestly, that colour scheme looks an awful lot like the current Fish-Elf skintone paints, all desaturated with green undertones. I was actually looking up a pic of those paints to give you an idea, but I stumbled on this on the first page of image results which seems to be basically what you're after
>>
>>93369066
>new to the hobby
>watched a good amount of painting tutorials
>Starting with Reaper minis and AK paints
>DIY wet palette
You might be new but already you've given yourself a better introduction to hobby than the majority of us did. Most if not all of the beginners traps avoided. Good stuff to see.
From what you're describing, it sounds like it might just be a settled paint seperation issue. AK doesn't come prethinned to an airbrushable consistency, they're meant to be basically brushable out of the bottle.
Roughly how long are you shaking your paints on average? I'd recommend you pick up some glass beads, stick one or two in your bottles to aggitate the paint and double your shaking time. You can get packs of dozens of them for fuck all from art shops and they're definitely worth it.
Stainless steel ball bearings work too, but there's controversy around some brands selling mild steel balls and them rusting inside the bottle.
Glass ones have less mass but they'll still do the job and they'll never go bad and ruin your paint.
>>
>>93369152
I'll shake my paints a bit more and see if that works before I buy glass beads. Thank you anon.
>>
>>93366874
Damm, beautiful table. Well done anon.
>>
>>93367960
Nice face on the guy on the right

>>93367075
I grab pieces of slate from alpine trails and crush them. You can get a cheap slate plate from amazon for 4 euro and crush that for a massive amount of pieces.
>>
>>93367610
>Particular YouTube channels
Goobertown hobbies, squidmar games, Eric's hobby workshop, JD in the sump sea, MS paints, wellywood wargaming, miniature rundown, eons of battles
Mostly a lot of terrain or necromunda related stuff with tons of 40k overlap.
>>
>>93369266
>>93369152
Another thing. Will varnishes cover up my bad brush strokes at the very least? I'm still in the hobby phase where I'm trying to proper thin coats right.
>>
Is 99 percent Isopropyl Alcohol the "universally safe" paint stripper for resin, metal and plastic miniatures?
I don't care for finecast miniatures if Isopropyl melts that stuff as I consider finecast the equivalent of solid shit with its smell removed.
>>
>>93369671
A matte varnish should help level things off somewhat. If you use a satin/gloss varnish, you're probably going to reinforce any high points by making them reflect light more.
>>
>>93369683
Better to be safe and use something like LA's totally awesome or super clean. I haven't had anything melt when using those two, but some primers seem to be very resistant to them.
>>
>>93369645
>eons of battles
heh, I really dislike that guy.

>>93369671
>>93369692
A matt varnish will take away any reflection and lighting trickery and show plain and simple how your paintjob looks like. For example, if your blending is harsh, a matt varnish will enhance that.
>>
>>93370213
>I really dislike that guy.
Why?
>>
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how is the layering on my squig looking? With these new vallejo game color paints, they look much different wet vs dry. you guys think I need to basecoat the pink parts of the squig again or have faith in the current layers? also, should I edge highlight or try to layer the yellow hood?
I don't know how to shade the hood or layer it, since it's all very flat and angluar like a Porygon. anyone got tips?
>>
>>93370314
Looking at this gobbo's robes makes me wonder why I never considered looking at WHFB/AoS models to make chapter serfs. I bet old Night Goblins would be perfect!
>>
>>93369118
https://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=10&products_id=37
https://micromark.com/products/no-11-size-micro-saw-blade-010-inch-x-40-tpi-pkg-of-4?keyword=11%20saw
I have both of these, I reach for the first of them when there is room to use it, but the second one is very handy too. The first has a 0.06inch kerf while the second has a 0.1inch kerf, so it doesnt cut as fine.
>>
>>93369150
>>93366848

These are better ideas, I'll give it a go and report back.
>>
>>93370308
I don't like his painting approach to BT, says he uses clickbait titles "ironically" (so, unironically) and he has long, yellow finger nails; I don't like people with poor self-care/hygiene
>>
>>93370615
i like his painting but i will agree his hair teeth and nails(and the way he ends a lot of words with a really noticeable -ehhhh) bother me
>>
>>93370615
>he has long, yellow finger nails
He must find an advantage in re-rolling failed wound rolls.
>>
>>93370314
Regarding the hood, the foolproof way to go beyond edge highlights is to make the bottom parts darker and the top parts brighter. If you wanted to get more fancy you'd need to do some volumetrics but that would require you to establish a consistent light source for the mini.
As for the squig I don't much like the bubblegum pink but that's just me. The layering itself is alright, not perfectly clean or anything but it looks fine. I assume he's still not highlighted, because outside of the recesses being darker it's rather flat. Start mixing in your highlight color into the midtone to highlight the parts that stand out the most. I don't know standard you're aiming for but another pretty easy way to make it look more interesting would be to glaze a different, colder tone into the shadows
>>
>>93370308
I immediately block all youtubers who use the word "fix" in the title of their videos.
>>
>>93370308
>clickbait titles and thumbnails
>mediocre painter
>disgusting, untrimmed nails
I can't find a single reason to like him. In all honesty I think the nails are the biggest offender. It's just so fucking triggering to me that a faggot that makes videos that show closeups of his hands wouldn't make them presentable.
>>
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Thoughts on my Frogdog?
>>
wow more no news about 40k
>>
>>93371645
fucking awesome
>>
>>93371645
I absolutely hate it. Excellent job.
>>
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Got around basing the crusader squad, old and new guys. Maybe I'll add a couple more stones or skulls on the ground, but I kinda want to keep the bases super minimal.

Next step, basing termies and dreadnought

>>93371645
He looks like he'd be at home in berserker's eclipse, so yeah he's cool
>>
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>>93365845
Hello anons
I'm working on a YT-1000 for my RPG group. I spray primed it and drybrushed it up with Vallejo acrylics. I was planning on doing the panel lining with Tamiya paneliner, but I'm a little worried that the enamel thinner I'd need to cleaning up the application spots will burn through the paint or even the 3D print resin. Does anyone here have any experience with Tamiya panelliner and sone advice to give?
>>
>>93372016
>I'm a little worried that the enamel thinner I'd need to cleaning up the application spots will burn through the paint
Yeah, the main risk is that you'll end up rubbing your paint off when you clean up the little bits of overspill, kind of like a targeted-striping. Give it a generous coating of gloss varnish first to protect what you've got so far. Acrylic varnish will be just fine, just don't rub too aggressively during clean up, you want to gently remove the excess not strip it down to the plastic
>>
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making some frostgrave trasure
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>>93372052
Honestly thought the top right one was a toilet from the thumbnail
Absolutely love them though, they are very cute and good.
>>
>>93371645
Absolutely horrifying
>>
>>93372016
Shade first, highlight after.
>>
>>93372060
>Honestly thought the top right one was a toilet from the thumbnail
I saw it too, you're not crazy
>>
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>>93367960
Wasn‘t much in the mood for painting today so I built another guy out of leftovers.
>>
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Zarbag coming along. I should buy some nicer brushes.
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more progress on birdies
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>>93372760
>[CHOCOBO THEME INTENSIFIES]
Those are really striking, anon! Fantastic!

I haven't been keeping up with Age of Sigmar; are these the "Seraphon" equivalent of Cold one Riders, or something entirely new?
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Repainting my kurnoth hunters. First unit I finished after I got back into the hobby a year and a half ago. His bow and one of the horns snapped when I was first assembling this guy, unfortunately. I tried a different color scheme back then and as I got more trees they really didn't fit with the rest
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>>93372814
theyre new ones called raptadons, cold ones replacements are aggradons
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>>93372060
>>93372289
I'm not a barbarian i do have a latrine
excuse the shitty photo but its 12 years old
>>
I wanted to give some of my skellies damaged shields so I hacked a little off of em. Did I take too much or do they look alright?
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>>93365845
I fear I may have to proclaim defeat on my Dactylis attempt, or at least significantly postpone it.
With the long-legged version no longer feasible I had instead shifted to try and find a way to make a long-armed version instead, but regardless of making it into a strict catapult or making the arms the whip-strings that they originally were I simply cannot figure out a way to actually make any arms that look good. And while I could attempt to try to use the middle legs that normally come in the Tervigon kit instead, I had already cut up those legs so severely in the process of trying to make the long-legged strider version of the conversion that I'm completely lost as to how I could possible stitch them back together in a way that would hold, much less look good-as-new (and with the apoxy being rock hard compared to how soft green stuff is the durability of the material is working against me on trying to clean it off without harming the parts), and I cannot find anyone selling those pieces online. I cannot afford to simply drop sixty bucks on just getting a new one, even if I just wanted to have a fresh kit to use normally, and with the way the thing is now I'm kicking myself for tearing up my Tyrannofex and part of a Mawloc just because I hate how the normal version of the Tyrannofex looks when I could've just had a normal one and worked something out later.
I had always wanted to try my hands at these kinds of conversions, but either I lack the skill for the moment to see it through or my severe lack of bits and spare parts does not afford me the ability to make mistakes or second-guesses and my attempt to go a new direction was FUBAR from the start. Compared to kitbashing, I'm not so sure what I could do to remedy this. I'm just down a Tyrannofex the tail of a Mawloc and a lot of putty and time.
Hopefully I can find a way to salvage it in the future.
Until then at least I've got my Carnifexes going well.
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>>93369023
When the Zyzz music kicks in. Nice work, anon
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>>93373547
if you have a rotary tool (or a hand drill) you could add some pock marks like on these two shields. I find that looks good for metal shields. That is for corrosion. If you were going for battle damage maybe some V gauges and scratches get that idea across better.
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>>93373547
Im always a sucker for multiple arrows sticking out of shields. Easy to take some sprue, carve it into a wonky looking thin stick, and carve some longer thin feathers on the tail end.
>>
>>93374140
Or you could just put a little blob of greenstuff on the end of a wire and crimp the edges with a pair of needle nose pliers to simulate the feathering.
>>
>>93373619
>>93374140
>>93374209
Those are great ideas. Thanks anons.
>>
>>93373550

Post your failure so I can learn from it.
>>
>>93372393
Looks *smashing* anon.
>>
>>93365845
Still painting boardgame hoard

Jesus fucking Christ do I hate goblins. They are like half the size of everything else but have just as much shit on them to paint. I am absolutely going to have to heavy wash the hell out of these things to attempt to hide the frankly stupid amount of fuck ups I am making on them.
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I'm starting to be pretty happy with the banshee, gotta put some highlights on the tactical rock and get started on the head, but i'm thinking the body is done.

White or green for the helmet, i'm still undecided.
>>
>>93374454
Never paint Chaos Space Marines.
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Made a bit more progress today, here he is next to his brothers. Really happy with how my replication of the original pose is coming out. Im trying to decide which jump pack I should go with, I have plenty of mkIV, mkV, and mkVII. I kinda want the mkV to work but it just always looks a bit goofy.
>>
>>93374539
>White or green for the helmet, i'm still undecided.
what about
_red_
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>>93374539
Black with white faceplate.
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MK5 marine conversion, probably not gonna do another, but i'm ok with how it turned out
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>>93376055
Also a MK4 did in a similar fashion. Yes, i prefer the old style long MK4 helmets over the flat ones in the Horus Heresy kit.
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are the new Model color metallics any good? juan hidalgo said Silver is the best edge highlighting color ever. gunmetal and brass look pretty good. desu

>inb4 just use metal color
I have for a year and it's getting very boring.
>>
>>93376189
>juan hidalgo said
lmao
>>
>le hecking eceleb said so!
god I fucking hate what this hobby has become
>>
>>93376189
>I have for a year and it's getting very boring.
>'no no no you dont understand, I dont care if this paint works as intended and its probably the best of its kind, im BORED of using it, I need to consoom to keep the hobby exciting even if im getting a worse product!'
>>
What is this "fuck cumulative knowledge you have to start from scratch every time" attitude?
>>
>muh cumulative knowledge
dear redditor,
britbongs shill army painter
mexicans shill bayeho
t. AK enjoyer
>>
>>93376189
Brother VMC is objectively the best metallic paint on the market as long as you aren't looking for something to drybrush with. Don't get caught up in hype for a replacement to something you've already solved. You really won't find a smoother or easier to apply solution to metallics than VMC. It's only shortcoming is that it can occasionally be hard to find depending on where your at in the world
>>
>>93376059
>Yes, i prefer the old style long MK4 helmets over the flat ones in the Horus Heresy kit
Okay?
>>
>>93374539
Green all the way bro. Balances out the green tabard. Anything else is going to make the tabard look out of place
>>
>>93376354
Sorry, i just got a lot of comments elsewhere about how shitty the helmet i chose was and i should've used the 'primaris-like' new MK4s
>>
>>93373550
That's a lot of words to type out to describe a problem that we could've helped solve via a picture of it. Not everyone here is familiar with every model from every 40k army or what you're envisioning for the model so you're kinda just spitting jargon at us.
>>
>>93372760
I wish these boys had saddles on the turkeys instead of just green goblin surfing on their backs. I like your colour choices tho anon
>>
>>93371851
I wish you'd blended the rocks into your texture paste a little more, but these are insanely nice overall
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>>93376284
>>93376272
I'm literally asking (you) guys for a second opinion on the product so I can decide if I want to buy a bottle or not....
also I don't like the gold VMC and I don't want to mix my own everytime with ink

>I need to consoom to keep the hobby exiciting even if im getting a worse product
I don't follow. Nobody buys or prints the same model repeatedly. Am I a CONSOOOMER because I paint night goblins one month then some minotaurs the next month because I painting night goblins got boring? I don't get what you mean. metal color is very water-y and I want to know if model color metallics are thin like game color metallics or if they're ready to use out of the bottle like the regular acrylic paints from game color.

>>93376225
What's wrong with Juan hidalgo? He's a pretty good painter and makes good videos

>>93376351
thanks. I've heard before that they don't work for drybrushing so I just use stormhost silver, but can you explain why this is?
>>
>>93376412
I've never heard anyone get bored of a paint color before unless they're just overusing it in everything they paint. Never also have I even thought to swap out one brand for another if the current one I have works. Boring is best,it allows you to focus on the results.
>>
Any suggestions on how to make realistic looking plants for jungle/forest bases? Some sites advise drying actual plants and airbrushing them but I'm not sure if using such organic material won't turn out bad later when it catch some moisture or something. Paper plants don't look good at the other hand. Any ideas?
>>
>>93376520
- Aquarium plants.
- Plants cut out of copper sheets.
- 3D printed plants.
>>
>>93376520
there are a couple of different options.
The old school way is to use plastic plants you can get for decoration or aquarium plants. They're plastic and pretty much indestructible.
Paper plants can look good, but you need to paint them. Problem is they are often expensive, but you can also just make your own.
Brass etched plants are another option. Scalelink's fretcetera division sells sheets of plants and you should be able to find something for historical modelling if you look for vietnam diorama stuff.
Natural plant material has to be treated. You can get stabilized plants, those are prepped in a way that they will not ever rot. Look online or in stores that sell interior decorating stuff.

Old school aquarium plants for reference.
>>
>>93376568
and here's a micro arts resin base with some additional material on top. Those have been around forever. They are not cheap, but with a nice paintjob they can look really convincing.
>>
>>93376587
>>93376568
>>93376548
Ok, thanks. I somehow face problems with finding shop with plastic aquarium plants in my (European) country, no idea why, probably another side effect of whole "plastic bad" approach.
>>
>>93376335
Yes anon, everyone is out there to get you.
>>
>>93376921
You mean a physical shop? That's not how things are anymore.
>>
>>93376921
Europe? Can't you try amazon? There should be animal shop franchises around anyway.
>>
Why the fuck do so many paints labeled bronze actually look like copper. I know that bronze is an alloy that contains copper and thus they look similar to a degree, but so many “bronze” paints I see are so orange that they can only read as copper. I painted a skitarii with vallejo bronze and it looked like a fucking shiny terracotta pot
>>
>>93376921
check out ebay or amazon.
The trick is that a lot of chinese sellers flood those platforms with several different listings at different places to gauge the prices, increase their presence or undercut other sellers. Sometimes those sellers are surpressed on those platforms and even if they are the cheapest sorted by price they don't appear at the top of the list because they fuck with the marketplace.
Should not be difficult to find even if you have to scroll down a little in the search results though. Just look for "model plants, vegetation, diorama, railway model" or something like that. You can get all sorts of stuff very cheap basically straight from the factory before it gets rebranded and upsold by other companies that way.
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>>93376978
Most bronze just looks like copper.
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>>93376978
>Why the fuck do so many paints labeled X actually look like Y.
just disregard the names altogether. If you compare the brass and bronze colors between VGC and VMC you got completely different colors.
Worth noting with metal paints is that the color comes from pigment while the shine comes from flakes suspended in the paint. So just think about the colors like with any other paint.
Silver and gunmetal usually is just the flakes with some amount of black. Gold is flakes with a yellow tone etc.
So just think about the color you want in terms of mixing the right inks for the colors in. If you don't have another color that is closer to what you want you can try mixing some green and brown into a gold for example.
>>
>>93376412
>referencing a youtube content creator on the north Bhutanese goat butter churning forum
Nta, but when does this ever work out well? I bet if you just said like "I've heard that [product] is solid for [purpose], what do we think?" or whatever, and these fucks probably wouldn't have a melty about it.
I have the model color metallics, and they're very meh. I'm pretty sure you're taking a straight downgrade in your metallic pigment, since the metal color has aluminum and the model color is probably just mica. The consistency is weird compared to the rest of the range, almost a bit of a gel (I don't have any game color to compare to sorry), and if you try to thin it more than a tiny bit it will separate like a mf. I've been able to get smooth coats, but sometimes you have to spread it a bit to get there. Overall, they are usable but I'm not crazy about them.
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this squigboss is p much done. just need to varnish it but I kinda of want to just put it down and do something else for a while. might be a meaningless fun project, might be some a couple blightkings or that glottkin for my nurgle army, or the new AoS knight questor(also for fun), not sure yet.

I went for a a lot of colors and I think they meshed well. the mushrooms always grind my gears.
>>
>>93376412
>hidalgo
He's a fucking shill like the rest of them, when gw told him to go fuck himself he instantly jumped to vallejo like a good boi. When he was starting out he always said he's never going to put his content behind a paywall but he backpedalled on that.
>good painter
Debatable, he doesn't paint any "bigger" minis and a lot of what he does, especially with contrasts, would not work on those at all. While I do agree that his formula is pretty solid and relaxing I refuse to watch him for reasons stated above. This anon is right >>93377277, just don't fucking mention youtuber names here
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>>93376393
Thanks a lot, I will keep that in mind for future bases

>>93376189
>>93376351
What do you mean with VMC? Vallejo metal colors or model colors?

In my opinion Metal Colors (airbrush colors- but I use them with a brush and are great, no need to thin) are possibly up there as the best metallics around; model colours metallics are citadel tier, which is not too great or terrible.

>>93377542
Bit too garish for me, but I really like the angry goggles eyes on the squig
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>>93377603
>gw told him to go fuck himseld
can a nigga get a qrd?
>>
Which brands of paint would you recommend for hand painting if I already have a big shelf of lacquers, enamels, oils etc from scale modeling and just occasionally want to brush paint a character figure, and don't want another shelf of 200+ acrylic paints? So basically rich and mixing friendly
>>
>>93377542
Why did you ask for advice earlier if you didn't apply any of it? If you want people to give you headpats over a mediocre paintjob you should look somewhere else
>>
>>93377714
They don't really do anything you can't do with oils, they're just less of a hassle to work with due to being water based.
>>
I don't have access to a hobby store for specialty products like plastic cement or Tamiya stuff, is super glue from regular stores (Walmart, home Depot) good for assembling miniatures? Is there any difference in super glues besides thickness?

>Inb4 just order online
I want to assemble the stuff this weekend and don't want to wait for shipping
>>
>>93377782
Every super glue is just CA glue, I use one I bought in a hardware store and never had any issues.
>>
>>93377782
>plastic cement or Tamiya stuff, is super glue from regular stores (Walmart, home Depot) good for assembling miniatures?
plastic cement is a solvent that melts plastic. You create a chemical weld using plastic cement. Superglue crystalizes and grips onto the smallest surface cracks to hold things together. You could use super glue to build plastic miniatures, but that means the bond will be weaker, i.e. you could in theory pop stuff off if you handle them too roughly. One advantage of plastic cement is that you are less likely to be left with gaps to fill since the plastic is softened up a little when you press pieces together.
pretty much down to personal preference what you use, but if you handle models put together with superglue roughly they might break apart. For gaming minis I'd always go for the extra durable solutions. Work you only need to do once is time saved later, but like I said that is just my prefernce.

>Is there any difference in super glues besides thickness?
Thickness and drying time are the mjor differences between brands. Some have additives that extend the working time (imagine you are trying to put the arms on a mini, but the glue has dried before you got the pieces in place or the glue sets before they are posed correctly). Aside from that the glue is basically interchangable. But it's really useful to have both liquid and gel at your workbench.
If you expect to use a lot of superglue also get some bicarbonate of soda. That is what's in accelerator solutions and if you sprinkle it on superglue it hardens instantly. That way you can fill a gap with soda, apply liquid glue and sand it flat immediately for example.
>>
>>93377782
>>93377877
Anon is right, but to add to that, superglue might be a good choice if you ever want to dismantle your minis for whatever reason. you pop them into a freezer and make the glue brittle.
>>
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I'm calling him done, tried to make his armour look dirtier and more weathered than usual without just slopping him in brown goo.
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>>93377924
Looks good anon, less is more when it comes to dirt and weathering in my opinion, shit gets distracting fast. Like the stripe on his face.
>>
what's the difference between vallejo's game and model paints other than colors available?
>>
Is there any way to strip primer from a resin model without destroying it?
>>
>>93377984
supposedly there is a different varnish/resin in the paint lines respectively. Can't say I ever actually noticed a difference.
Functionally they are just "realistic" and "cartoony" color ranges.
>>
>>93377942
Thanks, I tried to make the lieutenant markings in an old school way - still not sure about the white on white but I'm a slave to the codex.
>>
>>93376055
>>93376059
Looking good anon. I like the slung on the mkIV. Mind sharing what those green bbs are?
There is a huge quality difference between the FW mkIV resin heads and the plastic ones. You should get yourself some of them.
>>
>>93377924
Love the blue color choice. Nice chipping too.
>>
>>93377991
Yes.
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>>93376375
I've posted updates to the thing multiple times in past threads over the course of months, even making sketches for ideas of how to proceed with it.
I very rarely got responses and when i did no one was ever giving advice about help i was asking for. and me asking for help doesn't make me entitled to get it, i understand that, but it does kind of feel like a bummer when you keep asking for feedback and never actually get any.
this isn't me asking for help because i feel like that time has passed; i just can't bring myself to work on this anymore. Maybe I'll pick it up again in the future but I just need a break from it.
>>
>>93377782
>>93377874
>>93377900
Is there any different between cheap glue and hobby brand like Citadel™ glue?
>>
>>93377991
10 minute bath in ISO, scrub off as much paint as possible, let it dry, give it another short bath if necessary.

>>93378111
Shut the fuck up, boomer.
>>
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>>93378229
>Shut the fuck up, boomer.
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>>93377044
This is why I like visiting hobby shops with full rack of paints from a manufacturer, sometimes I find a better color than the one I was looking for.
>>
>>93378189
Citadel PLASTIC glue is different, its the plastic melting/welding chemical. Citadel Super glue is just overpriced CA glue.
>>
>>93378441
Citadels glue has an atrocious bottle with that needle thingy, it's honestly frustrating using that shit. Once you go tamiya extra thin you never go back to any other plastic glue
>>
>>93377991
IPA, if you left it overnight it will melt though
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>>93378677
>Once you go tamiya extra thin you never go back to any other plastic glue
it's good for some things, but you are overselling it. A glue with a bit more body is good for putting models together.
>>
>>93378790
I've had no trouble building bigger models with it, the shorter drying time helps a lot when fitting bigger pieces together. I've switched like 2 years ago and I've not a single time felt a need to use a different plastic glue
>>
>>93378250
I think you have the wrong anime, anon
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>>93378906
I guess so. Still don't get what he meant.
>>
>>93378834
If you don't have a third hand to hold stuff in place before you apply the glue more complex kits are impossible to put together with the stuff. Just my experience, but I've had to put it away in frustration for a couple of things and switch to something that takes longer tro dry.
>>
>>93378250
OK renter
>>
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>>93378229
Progress
>>
>>93377611
Noone would ever claim model colors is good at anything besides being shipped internationally. He very obviously meant the fucking goated Vallejo Metal Color
>>
>>93376921
Every pet store that sells aquarium supplies has plastic plants, you literally didn't look anywhere
>>
>>93378977
I mean it's painted well so far but holy fuck this thing is so ugly and disgusting
>>
>>93376921
Is this another sand schizo? Are there no pet stores in your fucking country?
>>
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>>93378086
>Mind sharing what those green bbs are
They're just 1mm half-sphere rivets i got from a local scale modelling store (they don't really carry 40k stuff, mostly just historical models)
I've also used 1mm sized nail art beads, which also work just as fine.
>huge quality difference between the FW mkIV resin heads and the plastic ones
for me it's less of a quality issue and more of a design issue. As i prefer the long-nosed with a visible mouth grill version vs the newer flat one.
>>
>>93378973
What? My mom doesn't ask for rent.
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>>93378960
One of the few citadel products that has been worth every penny is this guy. Because I don't need 3 hands.
>>
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tfw u catch a sneaky wiff of the tamiya extra thin
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>>93379433
lmao enjoy your brain tumors
>>
>>93379452
It's just acetone.
>>
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zombies need spooky goop ala return of the living dead, but I probably overdid it.
Glossy clear red around the ichor to brighten things up, or is that just too much noise?
>>
>>93379467
50/50 acetone and butyl acetate. the latter is much nastier and the part that makes it smell so good
>>
>>93379492
>butyl acetate
Not a carcinogen.
And unless you chug the tamiya down or smell it for 10 hours straight, it shouldn't cause any serious harm
>>
To avoid the safety issues with using all these complicated chemicals, I personally only build models by connecting parts with tiny butterfly joints I make from the sprue material, no glue required.
Early on I tried to build a landraider with only glueless dovetails but it was too much work, the butterfly joints are easier.
>>
>>93379492
real men huff methyl ethyl ketone peroxide while smoking a cigarette and acetone smoothing prints
>>
>>93379467
I know, I know. I was just remembering a health schizo that tried to convince people here you can get brain damage from sniffing acetone during hobbying
>>
>>93379534
The guy probably already had brain damage from being dropped as a child
>>
>>93379518
>he doesn't manifest his models together
>>
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Emperor's Children Cataphractii unit based off that old card game art. Finally got these dudes done as far as paint goes. Just need to touch up the bases and they're ready to rock.
>>
>the medieval lofi is cranked
>The paint is thinned
>on vacation from work
Thought on drybrushing Ravenwing armor/bikes a dark green so their armor looks like a green so deep it looks black?
>>
>>93379514
>Not a carcinogen.
I thought you could get an acquired allergy/asthmatic response from prolonged exposure, but I'm a dumbass and that's actually CA glue, and you have to be exposed to a shitload of CA to make that happen. The OSHA limit for exposure to butyl acetate is 150ppm for an 8 hour shift, and the odor threshold is less than 10ppm.
>>
>>93379489
I think you need to lay off the grimsharting, my guy.
>>
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i like 3D printing not because im aiming to lengthen my ethernet penis or because i like to present myself older than i actually are to my peers
i like 3D printing solely because i finally have access to all those now outdated models i had no money for back in the day
>>
>>93379607
Cool models, I like the bases as well. Please paint that chain a different colour though
>>
>>93379607
Very nice purple guys.
>>
>>93379646
That's basically what the box art Dark Eldar look like.
>>
>>93379646
Like what the studio painters did with the Lionel mini?
>>
>>93379736
can i blame it on huffing solvents? not just panicking at the first overglorp and keeping at it
>>
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>>93379101
>As i prefer the long-nosed with a visible mouth grill version vs the newer flat one.
That's obviously a Mk IV Imperial Maximus on the left (from the old Sternguard kit?), but the one on the right looks like a (Primaris) Mk X Tacticus Armour.Did it come in a Mk IV kit, like for Horus Heresy?

These are the three old metal Mk IV's from before the Dark Age of Technology - two single-piece castings and one that takes the "Strike Force" arms.
>>
>>93366874
Where did you get the mat? I want to build a Battletech table too instead of just using the flat mats for the umpteenth time.
>>
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That's two, man, the second one took like a third of the time, might actually finish the squad over the weekend.
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>>93379101
By quality I meant quality of design. The difference in lines is massive.
>>
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Tried /40kg/ to no avail so please forgive me

Anyone managed to find pdfs from those gnarly Spanish patreon painters by chance? (Elminiaturista, josedavinci, that Angel giraldez, etc)
>>
>>93379751
Okay?
>>
>>93380073
You gotta thin your paints my dude. That lumpy texture is something you need to work on. And if you are already doing that then you are not waiting long enough before coats dry before trying to apply more.
>>
>>93379751
Don't 3d printed models have this weird texture that makes them look like shit?
>>
>>93380112
>Elminiaturista
https://kemono.su/patreon/user/9632185
>josedavinci
https://kemono.su/patreon/user/5142569?q=pdf
>>
>>93380112
Why would you go out of your way to expose your brain to that slop
>>
>>93380160
Fantastic thanks anon, appreciated

>>93380161
Just trying new things anon, there no harm in that
>>
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I'm enjoying these cartoony Star Trek minis, nice and quick to paint one in between batches of Warhammer.
>>
>>93380132
Resin prints might have visible layer lines, or they might not. It's situational.
With primer and paint, most print lines disappear. From tabletop distance, they're completely invisible.
>>
>>93378441
>Citadel PLASTIC glue is different

Different from what?
Its regular plastic glue, just overpriced. Same as their CA glue is regular CA glue, just more expensive.

Its two types of glue, but nothing about either Citadel version of it is special.
>>
>>93380161
What do they even have hidden behind the paywall that you can't find for free? Color schemes for people who are too fucking retarded to come up with their own? No matter how much they meme about some fotm bullshit painting with regular paints will still yield the best results. It's all about practice and watching some shittuber is not going to give you that
>>
>>93380202

I like citadel plastic glue better than other brands I've tried, it flows better so I can use less of it at a time.
>>
>>93379871
I tried it, the effect is very hard to notice on small models. I'm just gonna highlight gray
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>>93380217
This is just categorically untrue if you've used tamiya extra thin.
>>
>>93380228

I haven't, never seen it in a shop.
>>
>>93380202
>Its two types of glue
NTAYRT, but that's the point he's trying to make. The whole time it wasn't obvious that you knew there was a difference between plastic cement and super glue.
Nobody's trying to convince you citadel brand glues are superior, it's the opposite if anything.
>>
>>93380215
You seem to be awfully mad about this anon, I'm still learning and there's always techniques I haven't come across yet. Not interested in some colour scheme as I have my own
>>
>>93380217
>it flows better
yeah especially through that godawful needle that gets clogged all the time. Nice try, james
>>
>>93380127
It's probably me not waiting long enough for it to dry, my paints are thin as shit. But i see your point. Still, they look good enough for me at the distance i'm seeing them from.
>>
What is it about imperia knights that make deciding on a paint scheme so damn hard. Nothing I think of feels good enough
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>>93379783
I dont wanna
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Does any tyranid expert know what these tendril things sprouting from the ground are? Unsure on how to approach them, might just paint them as glossy red veins.

>>93380245
It's most definitely that; white will look like that if you don't wait enough between coats.

>>93380266
No, look at your guy on the left, that chain MUST be painted
>>
>>93380242
Here, let me help you. The "techniques" you need to paint minis to a decent standard are
>layering
>blending
>glazing
>drybrushing
and you can learn all of them for free. Everything else is just execution and practice.
>>
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>>93380304
I wondered that on the same model. I went with red veins in the end
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>>93380330
post models
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>>93380330

I only do two of those and my minis are of a decent standard I think.
Certainly not painting competition level but I'm happy with my armies.
>>
>>93380245
What this anon said, >>93380304 except its applicable for all paints. Whites are just the worst and the most noticeable. Also not all white paint is created equal. Citadel whites are notoriously shite. White paint in general has large pigment particles which tend to want to aggregate forming lumps floating around in otherwise smooth paint. It's important to make sure there are none of these that make it onto your brush, no amount of thinning will help if your paint has chunkies in it.
>>
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>>93380331
yeah I'll probably do the same for mine, blood included. Neat scribbles on the purity seals, cool
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I call these two done. I'm still struggling to get better at shade transitions so any opinion is valuable.
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>>93380175
Cute
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>>93380434
Ayy, another member of the helmeted terminators club. Nice work!
>>
>>93379071
>>93379051
I checked pet stores online, one had plastic plants but out of stock, rest either none such option (only natural ones) and one only "carefully selected natural roots" for equivalent of 20€ each.
>>
>>93380440
Is it weird that I have an irrational hatred of anything associated with motorsports? I was poor as a kid, and in HS all the douchey upper middle class kids would go on trips up north to family cottages and dirt bike around and now I'm still just bitter about anything associated with motorsports and assume anyone into it is a douchey richkid.
>>
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>>93380304
Nah he's fine. Anyways here's a Siegebreaker and Delegatus console I'm workin on.
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>>93380440
I would hit the metalic parts with a super bright silver drybrush to make some of those edges glint. Should be super fast and the payoff high.
>>
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>>93380363
I don't usually reply to those but whatever, here you go. I'm not the anon that first replied to you btw. Now post yours
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>>93380527
This looks really good man, proud of you, gives u a big ol kiss <33
>>
>>93380051
Yeah, the one on the right, the primaris-looking one is actually from the plastic Horus Heresy kit.
>>93380107
I still like the Vanguard Veteran snooty one better, but the resin one here is a lot better than the plastic one
>>
>>93380527
How do you get those kind of photos, with the pure black background but you can actually still see the mini. Is this possible with a phone or do you need a real camera?
Really sweet mini btw anon. Very clean.
>>
>>93380582
Anon most good photos are taken on Iphones these days, or a high end Android. That just looks like a lightbox, a dusty one at that too.
>>
>>93380579
Cant argue with that! I was mostly just trying to make you aware of the old resin ones, cause those snoots are hard to come by.
>>
>>93380582
I do it with a phone in a cheap chinesium lightbox. Set your camera to manual/pro, turn iso all the way down and play with shutter speed until you get to a point where the backdrop blends completely. It helps to have a cloth with your desired color. I used a black t-shirt before but I bought some cheap pure black fabric and I use that now. Anons here said there's also a camera app for android that's supposedely really good but I didn't feel like I've needed it yet
>>93380591
>dusty one
you got me lol, I need to clean that shit up
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>>93380591
This was the best I could do last time I tried. Trying to push the black backdrop any darker makes the model even harder to see.
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>>93380651
You need more light then. If you're using a lightbox add another source in front of your mini. I use a desk lamp for that
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>>93380669
I tried with a variety of lamps, but all my results were some form of low contrast between the model and the backdrop. I was just using the regular iphone camera app. I have found that I actually get better photos with a distracted background. Else it seems that the phone tries to do something strange to the picture. Do you have any special apps you use?
>>
>>93380625
>cause those snoots are hard to come by
And with every squatting are getting harder and harder.
Currently there's only 2 kits that have them, the Vanguard Veterans and Death Company
>>
>>93380651
Put a light source over it like these guys do
>>93380527
>>93380434
If it doesnt work check ur phonecam settings
>>
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>>93380704
Nope, I just use the inphone app on a shitty galaxy a54 but I'm not even sure if it's that model. Here's my setup, if that helps. The lamp is also from ali, it's the shit they use in salons for painting nails I think. I highly recommend that, it's mounted to the desk and can stretch pretty far. Even has a magnifying lens
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Post lighting/photo setups
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>failed to get enough work done to get out early
>won't get enough cleaning/building models done before sundown to spray prime them today
>brush on primer takes fuck off forever to dry
>now I don't get to paint anything tonight
FUCK
>>
>>93380363
you still haven't posted yours btw
>>
>>93380228
>tamiya extra thin
I don't get this meme, I used TexT for the first couple years of my modelling hobby from recommendations and couldn't understand why people liked a product with such weak bonding power over super glue, shit fell off my models all the time, especially ball joints and pauldrons. Last year I switched to regular Tamiya and it actually performs the way some people say extra thin does, really fantastic product in comparison.
>>
Bright side; I’ve finished all my Carnifexes
I ended up deciding to have the last one be the good ol’ classic build so that I could have one normal looking one, and also let it stand out from the other two by virtue of that. I’ve always loved the design anyways so it’d be nice to still have one of them look like that.
I couldn’t get it to have twin deathspitters and the stranglethorn cannon and look nice however so instead I gave it scything talons and will have spore cysts act as the deathspitters since they did use to be a gun back in 4e (and shot spore mines in DoW2R). If all else fails I can just model some deathspitters into its base as well.
So here’s all three, all that’s left to do is base the other two and start getting them ready to paint.
>>
>>93380848
Time to make terrain out of trash
>>
>>93380854
I thought the same thing but it's legitimately a skill issue; it only works through capillary action, not like regular glues that you put on one part and then press to another. squeeze the two parts together then apply it and it'll fuse.
>>
>>93380304
Depends on how you plan to paint the nid. Gw makes it purple, the color of the armor
>>
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I always have such a hard time posing lightning claws so they dont look awkward.
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>>93380980
That's a weird application method that's not written on the label and would be really awkward for some bonds, think I'll keep using idiot-proof Tamiya regular.
>>
>>93381044
yeah, it's funky. but it's good for vehicle kits where you have super long bonding surfaces and don't want to risk anything oozing out when you squeeze em together.
>>
>>93381044
nayrt, but I always like to have both on hand. Regular's great for larger connection points, extra fine's good for teeny little bits, like a neck joint or the sockets on a pushfit mini
>>
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>>93380460
Terminator helmets are so cool, I don't understand non helmeted terminators

>>93381012
I only painted a quick test model and it has dark armour plates, I'd rather make the tendrils red and glossy to provide more contrast

>>93380894
Looking cool

>>93380582
>>93380751
My pic looks much worse than the thousand son's anon kek, I use just a piece of black paper as background and my desk lamp for lighting

my camera does have a pro mode to tweak with though, but sometimes I fuck up and it gets too dark. grimdark mode

>>93380704
Don't you have any exposure settings on your phone camera?
>>
>>93381337
>I don't understand non helmeted terminators
It doesn't make much sense in-game, especially in the environments one normally imagines Terminators in, but for dramatic flair and/or to set certain special models (sergeants, captains, chaos lords, etc.) apart visually, it can get you the look you're going for.

Plus, without his helmet, the cyclone missile launcher model from the Series Two Space Marine Heroes looks like Brian Blessed.
>>
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I have put off this model for too long so I'm finally starting the honeycomb pinup.
I also have had the pond scum pinup partly painted on a shelf for months so I'm also forcing myself to finish it at the same time.
>>
>>93381337
I mean your picture is totally good, and I can manage that with my phone too. I just cannot seem to get subject bright while the background pure black. I do have exposure settings, but it effects the whole image uniformly, darker background means darker model, and vice versa. Ill have to play around with light sources more. I was mostly just currious if these kinda results were possible with a modern smartphone like mine.
>>
>>93380582
The background needs to appear so dark that it reads as black when the photo is exposed with the miniature in mind. Easiest way to do this is to just have the background very far away with the only lights in the room being on the mini. Having dark background helps but it's absolutely not necessary, even a white wall will appear black in a dark room.
>>
>>93380460
Is there a spare helmet for the captain that came in the leviathan box?
>>
>>93381462
>the cyclone missile launcher model from the Series Two Space Marine Heroes looks like Brian Blessed
Possibly the only reason to go with a helmetless termie.

>>93381489
They are possible. A non reflective piece of black fabric for your background would help for a pure black background even while amping up lighting and exposure. I think GSW sells something like that for probably 5x more than what it actually costs.

>>93381616
BT cpt anon here, you do not get an extra terminator head for the captain in the leviathan box. I got mine as a spare bit for like 80 cents.
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>>93381957
terminator helmet*
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Sub-assembly enjoyers, how do you decide what warrants a piece being sub-assembled?
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>>93382072
If glueing it prevents me from reaching a spot easily, it gets glued on later.
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>>93382072
Sub-assembly virgins kneel to sub-sub-assembly chads that paint each piece individually.
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What kind of superglue should I get? I have only ever painted leviathan, so I have only ever done snapfit models. I have some regular kits now, and Idk what kind of glue to use. The glue I have takes a long time to even start to get sticky enough to hold them together.
>>
>>93382072
Usually like an entire arm or leg, or the torso + legs. However much you can put together and still get to all the details 360 degrees. I always paint heads by themselves on a little toothpick pike.
>>
>>93382072
Depends on if the piece is a squad or hero. I'll almost never subassembly a normal model. I prime in black and make sure to get all the hard to reach spots, so worst case I can't reach something and it's in shadow.
With characters/heroes I'll do subassemblies if something would be hard to reach.
>>
>>93382107
If you are glueing together plastic models, get plastic cement. It will melt the two pieces together and create a stronger and better join.
Anything else just use superglue.
Oh and a top tip, snapfit models dont usually fit together super well so most people will cut off the tabs before putting the pieces together so there are less gaps
>>
>>93382107
for normal kits you'll want plastic cement.
But for superglue I prefer the gel kinds. the thin ones can be useful, but generally not for what I want most of the time.
>>
>>93382122
This guy has a completed army, but most of them look like shit.

>>93382081
>>93382117
These guys don't have a complete army, but the models they finished look absolutely amazing.

>>93382092
This guy is a nigger.
>>
>>93382131
>>93382130
What kind of plastic cement?
>>
>>93382141
Whatever. They're basically all the same. I just like the tamiya stuff because of the little brush.
>>
>>93382141
It's almost all the same honestly.
Tamiya Extra Thin is what a lot of people seem to use, has a great brush applicator.
You can find revell plastic cement/plastic glue in almost any hobby store but I hate the long nozzle that gets clogged but that's probably a me issue
>>
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Looking to pick up these old RAFM traveller minis, but the uneven holes drilled in the ass are triggering my 'tism
Anyone have experience patching holes like this in pewter miniatures?
>>
>>93382141
Ignore those retards, snapfit models are both extremely cool and useful (you can pull them apart later if you need to get at a tricky area and reassemble easily)
Superglue can also be broken apart with a little finesse in case it glues on wrong or you decide you want to change the model later. Plastic cement bonds the pieces so you have to cut if you want them separated
>>
>>93382107
No super glue brand is any different from the rest, its the bottle that counts.

You want four products,
>The blue lidded bottle of Gorilla glue.
This is the only bottle that doesnt suck ass, there is a metal pin built into the lid so it almost never clogs on you.

>Extra thin super glue. This stuff is super nasty, so be very careful with it. But sometimes you need the superglue to wick into a crack and its the only thing that works for you. You can also use it to "revitalize" your normal super glue if it starts to get thicker than you like. Keep it in the freezer, and it will last a lifetime. I have the hobbytown usa brand. The bottle sucks ass.

>Testors model master plastic cement.
This stuff is a normal plastic cement that has a nice needle applicator. It's slower to cure than extra thin but you will have a hell of a time trying to assemble vehicles with the extra thin brush on stuff, stuff will evaporate before you can finish putting it down. Make sure whatever brand you get has a metal needle applicator (you unclog it by using a lighter to burn out the gunk).

>Tamiya extra thin cement.
Go to for assembling plastic infantry. Get a second jar, and make yourself some spruegoo.
>>
>>93382233
unless you are a complete scrub and produced a nuclear fuckup there is zero reson to pull models apart like that.
Some of the worst advice.
>>
>>93382072
If it would create a gap when I do it with subassemblies, it gets glued and gap filled right away and I have to deal with hard to reach spots (this is mostly on organic parts). Anything else basically this >>93382081
>>
>>93382132
>This guy has a completed army
You'd think so, but no!

>but most of them look like shit.
Y-you didn't have to say it like that at least.
>>
>>93382270
Do you break out the hobby saw every time you want to move an arm?
>>
>>93382375
Nta but when I anticipate wanting to remove an arm, I glue it with just a small bit of super glue. I can just snap it off that way.
>>
>>93382375
No. Generally speaking you think about what you want to do before you do it. That way you avoid those problems. It's why subassemblies exist. People plan a couple of steps ahead.
>>
>>93382418
I should add, this actually feeds back into a perfect example when you would want to use extra thin superglue. Say you are posing a difficult mini, and you delicately get the arms the way you want after 30 minutes of fiddling. Not wanting to take if off again, you can wick the extra thin super glue in.
>>
>>93381337
>I don't understand non helmeted terminators
Painting faces is fun, I like painting faces.
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>>93382438
>I like painting faces.
>>
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>>93382438
Good answer
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>>93380470
I dunno, motorsports are firmly associated with rednecks here in western Europe.
>>
>>93382375
Why would I want to do that? If the model has several loadouts and you can't choose, just magnetize it. Otherwise, plan ahead.
>>
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I've ventured beyond basic rocky terrain and am building some ruins for my homebrew 40k. Nothing fancy but I'm having an absolute blast.
>>
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>>93382998
>>
>>93382998
>>93383008
Alright I admit I'm a retarded boomer. I sent these from my phone to my email and downloaded on PC. They are upright on desktop, why the hell are they flipped now?! My pockets are spaghetti-less...
>>
>>93383013
4chan strips exif data including image orientation from photos to stop you doxing yourself with the geotags imbedded in the photo. Open in an image editor and save as to preserve the image orientation.
>>93382998
>>93383008
Its a good start. Discover the joys of spackle and what it can do for gap filling and texture.
>>
>>93383013
The metadata had been preserved between the transfer, but 4chan strips metadata so it returns to how you originally photographed it. Next time edit it slightly in any way and save that.
>>
>>93383008
>>93382998
fucking australians baka how do they live like this?
>>
>>93383030
>>93383022
Thanks fellas that's good to know!
>>
>>93382130
>>93382131
>>93382263
What abot 3D print resin? Super glue?
>>
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>>93382141
Mr Hobby of course. Tamiya is for dumb boomer
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>>93383276
Ye.
I actually epoxy my resin stuff normally, but super glue is fine.
>>
>>93383300
What on earth for?
>>
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>>93383334
>>
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I actually had always intended to give him axe and plasma gun, but I got caught up in how much I like lightning claws. I think Im happier with the way the stance flows into the weapon. Ill sleep on it, maybe a different guy will be the sergeant.
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I did play a bit with imagining the lightning claws with the mini posed higher up, kinda a launching through the air pose. His head is kinda floppy in this photo cause this was before I glued it on. Ill probably start working on the next guy before settling one way or the other.
>>
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Is this color suppose to be gold or brozen? Also what kind of wash should i use on this? Black wash look kind of weird
>>
Why the fuck is everyone's advice on how to start using an airbrush shit? They all contradict each other and it comes off like they don't know what they're doing.
>>
>>93383993
Looks bronze. The hue is slightly off for it to be gold and it's not shiny enough. Wash with something purplish.

>>93384032
Airbrushes are very much a YMMV thing. Chinesium pressure gauges and differing nozzle designs mean the actual air speed you get out of the airbrush varies from user to user. A 0.4 mm needle or bigger is very forgiving for paint dilution and are very difficult to clog while .2 needles clog all the time if you don't dilute your paint properly or let it sit in the brush.
>>
>>93384065
>Airbrushes are very much a YMMV thing. Chinesium pressure gauges and differing nozzle designs mean the actual air speed you get out of the airbrush varies from user to user.

None of the people who make "how to use an airbrush" videos on youtube say this. Worthless community, worthless people. They should all be stabbed through the eyes with airbrush needles so they can't paint anymore.
>>
>>93384094
He said Chinesium airbrushes.. don't buy Chinesium.
>>
>>93384177

Nah, some of these youtubers who give shit painting tutorials that don't actually explain how to use an airbrush need to die disabled, poor, and suffering.
>>
>>93384177
I didn't say chinesium airbrushes. All the name brand airbrush manufacturers have their own designs and sometimes they even vary between a manufacturer's lines.
>>
>>93384180
Not related to what I said.

>>93384227
You said Chinesium airbrush parts. If you buy a decent brand, you don't get riggety parts.
>>
>>93384253
Are you pretending to be retarded? The nozzle airspeed of iwata eclipse is different to h&s ultra and to badger patriot is different at the same pressure because the nozzle designs are different.
>>
>>93384300
What the fuck does that have to do with Chinesium? There's no universal standard in airbrush parts, because they're not a common household item.
>>
Are Kimera paints a meme
>>
>>93384334
>What the fuck does that have to do with Chinesium?
[Chinesium pressure gauges] and [differing nozzle designs], not Chinesium [pressure gauges and differing nozzle designs].
The second one doesn't even make sense because the correct word order would be differing chinesium nozzle designs.
>>
Am I allowed to post model cars here?
>>
>>93384374
There's a scale model general on /toy/
>>
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>>93384379
Didn't know that. Thanks for the information anon.
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>>93384374
we might be on /tg/ but this is wip general, I personally wouldn't mind scalebros posting some of their stuff here
>>
>>93384374
It beats bitching about painters and tools.
>>
Personally I think any in-progress models can be posted here. But you always risk some uptight fun police reporting your post.
But I guess you pretty much risk that posting anything here normally so why not.
>>
>>93384365
That doesn't change my question.
>>
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Thoughts on how to improve this lad?
>>
>>93384434
You clearly hate edge highlighting, and I understand, but you should add SOME edge highlighting. The red looks very flat
>>
>>93384434
Stronger highlights on the reds. Not sure what's going on with those yellows? They're very painterly, while the overall style isn't.
>>
>>93384441
It doesn't need to be edge highlighting. He can do volumetrics like a real boy.
>>
>>93384434
>that goofy helmet face again
>>
>>93384448
Even with volumetrics, I would recommend some selective edge highlights, especially for hard surface things like that.
>>
>>93384448
How many people here actually do volumetric highlights though? Vast majority of higher standard models posted are full gw style
>>
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>>93384463
>>93384448
>>93384443
>>93384441
Alright threw on some quick hilights before bed. Definitely feels better
>>
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>>93384481
I think this is the only model where I've really attempted volumetric shading.
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>>93384502
You rushed it.
>>
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Can someone give me pointers on how to paint skin like this?
>>
>>93384528
That's what quick means brother
>>
>>93384536
Well, don't do that.
>>
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>>93384536
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>>93384529
for painting a nid army I'd say prime white and thin down a purple wash or contrast paint with sufficient medium until you get the right shade of purple/pink.
>>
>>93384529
That looks airbrushed, but you can use pink bases with a mix of purple and sepia washes to achieve something similar. The pinks do also look a bit desaturated.
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>>93384503
looks very good, nice job anon
>>
When I was applying a wash I noticed that my basecoats weren't fully covering and very tiny and I mean tiny spots of the black primer was still visible.
I feel bad now because the wash is now settled and I should have noticed earlier.
>>
>>93384503
Good shit anon. Mine is the tson posted eariler, I'm planning to paint the entire army with volumetrics, hopefully I won't run out of steam
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>>93384741
That's why you always give your models a once over after all the basecoats
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>>93384741
painting is not a linear process, nor a precise science. Just paint over it until it looks the way you want it.
No point in feeling bad, it's a natural part of the process.
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Got some work done on the constable and Brother Hammertime. What‘s a cool ass effect for energy hammers?
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>>93385016
lightning looks neat
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Is this enough paint to start yet? I just want to paint without worry about anything
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>buys half the store
>NOW I can paint
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>>93385552
lmao not even close to having enough paints for optimal painting comfort, come back when you have at least 2 full ranges
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>>93385552
You need at least 720paints.
An older pc screen can display 16million colours. You don't need all of those, but you obviously need to try and get close.
>>
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I'm really unsure for a hair colour on this, any suggestions?
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>>93385872
White would work.
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>>93385872
Purple, to contrast with the honey
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>>93385872
chestnut/reddish brown or white
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>>93385757
Those are rookie numbers.
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>>93385872
We don't have enough redheads, so that's where my vote goes
>>
Newbie here. What is the best bang for your buck paint?
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>>93386132
Can't answer that right now anon, bad timing, there's nogames coomershit that needs our attention more.
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>>93386166
Cry about it
>>93386132
Craft paints from the same store your mom buys glue, but there's really no reason to go that cheap. Just avoid overpriced shit like Citadel paints. The usual brands like Vallejo, AK or ArmyPainter are fine for value.
The real money saving trick is getting good at mixing paints on the palette to get what you want.
>>
>>93386207
Terrible post
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>>93386132
Creams tend to be good and versatile.
>>93386166
Feel free to post any WIP you want ano.
I post 40k stuff all the time, I just want to do some KD shit as well.
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>>93386166
God forbid someone actually posts models here, jesus christ
>>
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>>93372052
made another chest, now with a working hinge
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>>93386294
and a telescope
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>>93386294
Did you make hinges out of plasticard? You fucking madlad.
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>>93386338
yeah, the pin is a bit of .75mm optic fiber, it was easier than it seems
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Tried out metalic oil paint. I'm surprised how good it is as I've heard it's not very opaque. Maybe I just got lucky with the brand? It's very easy to shade, but it does seem like the metalic flakes are bigger than acrylic ones. Personaly I like the look as it gives a more rough look to the metal, but I understand it's not for everyone. I'll be trying out the gold metalics next and let you know how that goes. Also, this is quite a small surface so I don't yet know if it would work on bigger models.
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>>93386166
well at least he's not nomodels like you, you fucking asswipe
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>>93385872
an anon posted a kdm mini not too long ago that had blue-grey hair, I think something similar would work well with the yellow of the honey
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>>93386132
I was pleasantly surprised by Blick matte paints. Liquitex Basics fluid acrylics are also good for how cheap they are, but I prefer Blick.
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>>93376393
>>93377611
All right, ried to blend the stones with the ground on my converted chaplain, definitely makes for a more rocky ground

>>93386294
heh, nice work
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>>93386700
Based chaplain enjoyer
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>>93386700
Always loved the Chaplains, yours looks pretty sick
I’ve still got a couple things I want to do for mine (I’d like some candles to put around his altar on the back and want to find a way to sculpt a Lion’s maw around the gun) but I’m pretty happy with him as he is. No clue when I’ll get around to painting him though. I fear he’ll be a nightmare to paint all the way.
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>>93386839
Fix the gun though
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>>93372052
>>93386294
>>93386321
these are great. Good job.
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>>93386765
>>93386839
Agreed, chaplains are great. I still have a Grimaldus to paint, but I kinda want to give him a proper skull helmet as well

Your chaplain looks cool, bendy combiweap aside. Might have as many skulls on him as mine
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>>93387037
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>>93387037
Grimaldus is too iconic to change in my opinion.
He does need a scope on his plasma pistol if you have the new one though, not sure why they took that away from him.
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>>93387102
>Grimaldus is too iconic to change in my opinion.
I don't know, the model clearly takes inspiration from the Helsreach novel with the relics and stuff, but they gave him a slightly modified, black marine helmet with some teeth in the vox-grille, while in that very same novel he has a silver skull-like helmet. I think it'd be cool to give him the latter.
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>>93386878
I'll check the guy when I get the chance, i don't remember his gun being bent. Maybe the angle just distorted it?
I kitbashed him years ago though (I've just added on a few things recently to make him look more like how I'd initially envisioned him) so it's possible I messed the gun up and just didn't notice; so if it's bent I'll just try and re-do it.
>>93387037
Thanks. While I'm thinking of it, would you have any advice on how to make little candles? I think it'd add a nice touch.
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>>93385552
please tell me those red brushes have caps on them
>>
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Aright /wip/, I have a weird problem. End of last year I broke my foot and spent a solid amount of recovery building and brush priming miniatures. Today I went to work on some of the Necrons I primed, had issues getting my normal paint to water ratio working right which led to some shitty, streaky paint on a Destroyer. I grabbed a wet paper towel and -lightly- wiped the paint off, which also led to primer being lost as well, despite primer being applied seven or eight months ago. Took a dulled toothpick I use to paint stirring and manage to cleanly and easily damage the primer on another Destroyer, a fingernail having a similar result. Now, I brushed on this same primer on some CGL made BattleTech minis and it worked like a charm, so I'm at a loss. Do I try to scrub the primer off these minis and re-prime with brush, or airbrush?
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>>93385872
>painted it as honey
Coward.
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>>93387955
damn now I want to get that mini and actually paint it as cum
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>>93387935
Application method is not the issue, brush on is just thicker, not less sticky. Maybe there was a lot of finger grease on them?
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>>93387935
did you clean the models before?
For some reson people seem to think there is no mold release or lubricant on plastic sprues, but if you didn't clean the model before priming it could just be that and there is nothing wrong with the primer itself.
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>>93388010
I noticed something that looks like checkerboarding on a scarab stand. That could be the problem, thanks for the input.
>>93388078
I'll sound ignorant but I always assumed that cleaning was mainly for resin miniatures and occasionally metal due to mold release agents. Looking at how the Destroyer trio seem to be having the main problems and visible markings from the primer it might be that. I guess I should strip the primer and try to clean them up and re-prime? Your help is appreciated, Anon.
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>>93388108
Nta but yeah drop them into ipa and reapply the primer. IPA will take care of any grease and shit as well so if after all that the primer still won't stick there might be something wrong with it
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New thread:

>>93388170
>>93388170
>>93388170
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>>93388108
>I'll sound ignorant but I always assumed that cleaning was mainly for resin miniatures and occasionally metal due to mold release agents.
No plastic minis need that treatment too. You are just more likely to get away with it since most spray primers have acetone in the can and that etches itself into the surface of the plastic better. To be honest, being willing to listen is anything but ignorant. For some reason I've had people get really angry when I pointed that out in the past. That is why I posted a pic with a GW sprue, because you get the weirdest rationalizations. Like how GW and other plastic kits are different somehow...plastic injection molding is plastic injection molding.

Anyway.
>Looking at how the Destroyer trio seem to be having the main problems and visible markings from the primer it might be that. I guess I should strip the primer and try to clean them up and re-prime?
If it's only these three it might be worth the effort. Only three models and elites as well. But to be fair most primers will fail a determined tootpick scratch test. That the paint lifts off when it gets wet is an issue though, especially since most hobby paints are water based acrylics.



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