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Work in Progress, "So is that a stabba or a choppa" Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin:
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>"Not yet, old man!"
aHR0cHM6Ly9nb2ZpbGUuaW8vZC93QkRJOGU=

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

Previous threads:
>>94799314
>>94784370
>>94765071
>>94744993
>>
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WIP Secret Santa archives

>2024
https://imgur.com/a/g7MfJE5
>2023
https://imgur.com/a/e9QOmJJ
>2022
https://imgur.com/a/2OWxHpg
>2021
https://imgur.com/a/TKfeLxU
>2020
https://imgur.com/a/TeduVrJ
>2019
[REDACTED]
>2018
https://imgur.com/a/UWRYKEq
>2017
https://imgur.com/a/qS7PH
>2016
https://imgur.com/a/1fxhq
>>
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>>94814246
I posted this at the end of the old thread, I'm going to repost it in the hopes of a little more feedback, if you guys don't mind

Can I get youse guys's advice on something? I really want to make my own Rogue Idol, and this guy's video looks like an achievable way to do it. But I want to make mine bigger, like 7 inches tall. The same height as a Mega Gargant because I'd probably be running it as one since the Rogue Idol got Legends'd

I've never done anything like this and I'm wondering if the foam and hot glue construction would hold up by itself at that size. Would I be better off building it around a wire armature for stability? Or would that be unnecessary?
>>
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Revenants!
>>
>>94814271
>would that be unnecessary?
Technically, yes, but it would be a *lot* sturdier if you had one.

Since you mention using it as a "counts as" mega-gargant, I assume that means you'd want to handle it in games and not just put it on a shelf. The kind of stability you'd get from using an armature would be indispensable!
>>
>>94814320
OK cool, thanks.

followup, could you recommend a gauge of armature wire for my wire armature?
>>
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One day we will find out HOW this box art made it to print with the Mega Gargant missing part of its arm...
>>
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Reposting from last thread

Completed painting up the original 2nd Ed Commissar Yarrick and Ghazghkull (with good bannerboy Makari)

Wish i had a better printer for the banners, but best i could do with what i got
>>
>>94814226
Absolutely fantastic anon, would love to see more of your army as it grows.
>>
>>94814351
>could you recommend a gauge of armature wire for my wire armature?
16 gauge aluminum or steel (aluminum will probably work better) wire.
>>
>>94814434
These are incredibly sharp. Wish I could play games of 2nd Edition 40K again with my Blood Angels facing off against Orks like this.
>>
>>94814409
Reminds me of the old plastic Wraithguard box where the model's hand is disconnected from the arm.
>>
>>94814521
billion dollar company
>>
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>>94814409
>>94814521
>>94814532
>>
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>>94814537
>>
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>>94814548
Its my schizo belief that they do this somewhat on purpose, so that the models and paint jobs don't seem too "out of reach" to a common person.
>>
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Since we "NMM" now, how does this sword look? I feel like it might actually have too much contrast
>>94814434
kino
>>
>>94814593
>I feel like it might actually have too much contrast
No such thing, looks great.
>>
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Anon delivers! Merry Christmas Anon!
>>
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>>94814737
Holy moly that's a lot of space knife ears
>>
>>94814737
Saim-Hann?
>>
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>>94814737
>>94814785
>>
>>94814566

The painting level is not achieavable by common people, not even close. They have actually taken that approach with the new Youtube tutorial videos though.

People find it hard to believe that yes, inside big corporations there are still fuck ups too, tight schedules with deadlines. Sometimes mistakes just get through the whole process.
Hell, some people still find it hard to believe that back in the day the Eavy Metal team often painted just the front side of the miniatures, because the White Dwarf article would not include any pictures from the back of the mini.
>>
>>94814749

Is /tg/ the wealthiest board on 4chan? Based on secret santa I'd think so.
>>
>>94814836
I think it has more to do with the hobby being more important than crying about someone needing to by new units every 3 months because GW made a change
So bigger purchases are normal because it's something anon actually wants to do, not feel they have to do
>>
>>94814548
>>94814566
eh, more likely the mini was painted in subassemblies and they fucked up on the final assembling, then didn't have enough time to paint another one
>>
>>94813913
>>94814130
>>94814144
I transferred about 60 gw paints to dropper bottles to satisfy my ocd, and cause I was tricked into thinking they would solve all my problems with the GW pots.
While citadel pots suck in their own right,
dropper bottles have their own swath of problems, like clogging and when paint just erupts out for no reason. But the worst one is that for paints that have a tendency to separate, even an exhausting amount of shaking cannot get them to mix 100% because some is trapped in the tip. This means the first drops of paint are often heavily skewed to be the more liquify portion of the paint mixture, necessitating putting far more pain on the palette than I actually needed in order to reconstitute it.
All in all, I find that dropper bottles are just as frustrating, only in a different way, than citadel paint pots. So I don’t recommend spending all the effort and time to transfer an existing collection.
If you wanted to go through the effort at least pick a good container, like a glass jar with a real lid like tester model master paints used to come in.
That said I got a vortex mixer for Christmas, I hope it resolves the paint separation problem, havnt gotten to test it out.
>>
>>94814892
In my humble opinion, the final solution are citadel pots but with a clean, screw on lid.
>>
>>94814271
use wooden skewers

that foam weights nothing so it doesn't need them but helps with the gluing and handling
>>
>>94814892

Vortex is one of the best hobby purchases I've made and I am mad for putting it off for so long. There are good and bad things about both pots and dropper bottles, when it comes to mixing paints I find vortex solves issues for both pots and dropper bottles.

I also have to say that I don't have the time or patience anymore to transfer Citadel paints to dropper bottles, it is lot of work and I have done it bunch of different ways. The paint also starts behaving differently because of added medium or flow improver, there is kind of a muscle memory with every paint and how much you should thin it, which IMO changes when you do the transfer. At least that's been the case for me.
>>
>>94814917
Nah, despite the many problems dropper bottles have, I still think being able to measure your paints by drops makes mixing a lot easier. Having to scoop the paint out makes it guessing game.
>>
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Classic lime or corrosive orange?
>>
>>94814917
Truth be told i think citadel pits can be fixed very easily, but I already transferred all my paints before bothering to look into it. The issue with them all comes down to the closing action, and how the lip of the rim scrapes paint off the bottom side of the paint trough. This causes paint to get shoved up into the seal, which when it dries makes further closing the lid not seal properly, so the paint dries out.

Now anyone who has used citadel paints should know that when you close them, you have to stretch the rubbery lid by pulling it out and up, which prevents the paint buildup. But this is annoying. I bet if you just cut off the trough and heck even the hindge so you can take the lid all the way off, then these problems would go away. And with the lid totally detachable you could every rince it out, which I will point out you have to do all the time with dropper bottles, those lids are always covered in paint on the inside. That’s probly actually what causes them to clog in the first place, an improper sealing cap.
>>
>>94814969
The one on the left looks more virulent, right reminds me more of orange soda
>>
>>94814943
>Thinning paint
Yes that’s why I recommend the funnel and wait method for decanting. I would never suggest adding thinner to a paint just so you can pour it out easier.
The craziest method I tried to use to get paint out was actually with a syringe, but not in the way you’d think. I poked a hole in the bottom corner of the pot, then jammed the syringe in the top to pressurize the pot and force the paint out.

I have to get my cortex mixer out and give it a whirl. I will say though I really do enjoy having my paints alll in the same shape container, cause they all fit in a essential oils foam hard shell case I got off Amazon for like 30 dollars, and it’s portable for hobby hangouts.
>>
>>94814969
Classic lime
>>
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Working on aged bronze armor for these guys now.
Should I dry brush copper or gold on the edges/raised bits? Still gotta do a green wash on it before though.
>>
>>94815045
Yes I think they could use a bit more pop.
>>
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>>94814864
Anon was talking about /tg/ in general I think. What you said applies to /wip/ specifically and you're correct I think. This thread actually has some semblance of a community. Compare it to something like /40kg/ which is essentially a shitposting assembly that will unironically have a negative impact on your enjoyment of the hobby.
>>
Progress on my scouts, im thinking of doing hazard stripes, what does /WIP/ think?
>>
>>94814593
Looks great imo
>>
>>94815148

Scheme looks nice and colors are neatly blocked in. It can benefit from some more contrast by applying more washes or glazes, but I assume you haven´t gotten to it yet? Oh, and that moldline you missed is really an eyesore. If it was up to me I would scrape it off and repaint.
>>
>>94814969
I could maybe see the orange working if it leaned more into a rusty orange-brown. Out of those 2 green looks a lot better imo
>>
>>94815096
Whoops
In that case I think /k/ may have more money
>>
Is there a material I can lift off after spraying something down to keep what's beneath
It's a huge surface area so ideally something easy to work with
>>
Genuine non troll question but will painting a mini entirely in black work as a substitute for actual primer? I have a ton of black lying around and its winter so its cold as fuck and none of my rooms are ventilated but all of my side game shit outside of my 40k army which is what i mainly play is unpainted and I figured I could just half ass it by trying that.

Is there any downside to this aside from the fact that I will be painting upon grey/green/yellow plastic and having paint not stick as well?

Better yet could I just paint straight onto the plastic?
>>
Please recommend an LGS or online store in the US that carries Vallejo Model Color, reliably does mail order, and usually has the paints in stock. None of the stores anywhere near me carry them.
>>
>>94815371
I mean you can try? Conventional wisdom says that painting on bare plastic is a pain in the ass due to the paint not sticking to the surface, beading up and being extremely easy to rub off.
My advice would be to just get a pot of brush-on primer.
>>
>>94815441
Eh I have decent success with it and I mean im going to be painting green paint on a T-34 made of green plastic or yellow and black paint on a tiger tank made of yellow plastic at 15mm so Im sure itll work out fine if all it does is make it more adhesive.
>>
>>94815371
It would work, it would just be capable of lifting while painting
>>
>>94815309
most definitely /k/. A single box of 20 rounds is 20 dollars.
>>
>>94814434
Awesome.
>>
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Finally finished these chics after they've been on my desk for over a year. Glad to have sword and board sisters. The curved sword is from a banshee.
>>
>>94815480
A single box of 20 Goblins is 45 dollars.
>>
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>>94815542
Different angle. Now I just need to come up with names for them.
>>
Do I paint metal any differently from plastic?
>>
>>94815359
There is masking tape made for models if you need to block out clean lines. There are also several hobby specific products that you can use to mask areas. There's masking fluid/liquid mask that you lay down with a brush and it dries like a film that you can paint over then peel up after, but I've never used it. I have used silly putty to mask, you can stretch it and press it into groves to mask areas and it (usually) pulls away clean. Its even reusable, but as always try it on a test model to make sure it won't stick to your paints.
>>
>>94815548
Yeh but your goblins lasts you longer than 20 minutes dont it.
>>
>>94815569
Metal gets a nice quick wash with warm water and dish soap using a toothbrush to make sure you got rid of any dust or oils from your hands that could cause your primer to not stick. Once you've got primer on it its not different from plastic approach wise.
>>
>>94815583
Thanks anon
>>
>>94815593
depends on how good you are at painting goblins
>>
>>94815569
In addition to what >>94815595 said, be more careful when handling metal minis during painting. Even with primer the paint is much easier to rub off than it is for plastic minis.
>>
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>>94815433
Hobby Lobby carries VMC.

For a bunch of Bible-thumping primitives, they actually carry a lot of neat WIP stuff.
>>
>>94815603
Or how bad you are lol
>>
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>>94814737
Confirmation has been received. Shifting anti-grinch package to Christmas bonus box.
>>
>>94814892
To fix your dropper problems all you have to do is:
1. Use a needle to clear the tip of paint, squeeze the bottle while screwing on the cap tight. Shake it. Open and let the air suck back in to clear the tip.
2. Squeeze the bottle lid off a bit 9if the tip is already clear) then put the lid on before you shake it, or shake it, let it settle for a few minutes then take the lid off and squeeze out air, then tip and squeeze out your paint, set the bottle back down and release it, the squeezed out air will suck back in the paint in the tip.

I do this with my Reaper paints and never have a problem with the tip clogging.
>>
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Also started work on this today after its been sitting primed for years. It was black this morning. Got a lot of work to do still but Im please with it. Its to supplement my all flamethrower sister army.
>>
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>>94815900
>>
>>94814246
Thanks for using my image in OP :0 !

>>94814593
Looks sweet as bro
>>
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dude what kind of insane satanic shit do they put in varnish? It melted my bros eyes, made them all blurry and moved pigment all around, even moving skin tone into the eye.

I already repainted his left eye, as it was much worse, but you can see the difference in clarity between the eyeballs…am I doing something wrong?
>>
>>94816177
What varnish did you use? Was it through an airbrush?
>>
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Pouches and a little more mold line cleanup
My hands are hurting from handling all these bits, hopefully later kits just put more pouches on by default instead of making me do it
>>
>>94816177
I think polyurethane varnish can do that, is that what you used?
>>
You ever get a stupid hobby idea in your head and just want to try it out?

I want to actually use my green stuff for more than filling gaps or resin holes.
And I looked at a clogged dropper nozzle and remembered my paper clip and now I want to bend a paper clip and make a handle for it out of green stuff.

Mostly so that it will be easier to spot in my tool box and hopefully reach a length that is about the size of the previous gw mould line remover. So it hopefully doesn’t easily fall to the bottom of the tool box making me have to shuffle objects around to find it.

Honest thoughts on the idea wip?
>>
Yesterday I thought:
>There's no way I'm dipping more then half the brush in paint am I?
Today I caught myself doing just that and when I stopped it, my control instantly got better. The shame I feel will last for at least until I go to sleep.
I saved my wet pallet from yesterday, but I'm not sure if that was a mistake since the paint was so spread out that it was hard to get it consistent. I'll start on a fresh sheet tomorrow.
Really like the orange over the yellow in the red, rest of the model less so. I didn't thin my paints enough and the screw heads on the leg joints lost too much detail for me to paint anything in them.
If you're wondering why one of them has a hood instead of a face, it's because I lost the face piece when I was assembling it, so I decided to apply some greenstuff. Might draw a symbol or something on it.
>>
>>94816474
It's sounds like drunk, tired, and incoherent ramblings.
Like, you want to make a green stuff paper clip shiv? Why don't you just get something like pic related and paint it neon pink so it sticks out?
>>
>Minis supposed to arrive today on Amazon
>Check tracking
>Delivered on 3rd January
Very fucking cool. Thank you DHL for not telling me or Amazon that you delivered the parcel and left it somewhere retarded so it could get stolen. I love that.
>>
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Anyone know what the wash or undercoat that would've been used for this model to achieve that colour in the recesses? The dude said it he used warlock magneta and wicked pink through an airbrush for it, but I'm guessing there's some sort of purple / blue wash used too
>>
>>94816495
Well I am tired as of writing this. Instead of buying needles I’d rather make something as using something I made gives me a good feeling like whenever I use my diy wet palette I feel good because it is something I made and am using.
Also I don’t want to use needles as I have used thin paper clips to unclog nozzles and they worked just fine. And there is minimal risk of stabbing myself.
The materials are also in my dwellings already so I don’t have to buy anything to make the unclogging instrument.
>>
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Fixed up an old predator. I wish people had taken better of their old tanks, they're usually in pretty bad condition. Lots of repair and replacements on this thing.
>>
>>94816499
Register with your email on the DHL website, and you will get updates for tracking and delivery. You also can give them instructions on what day they should.preferably deliver (for example Saturdays, and they will store parcels for you until that day).
>>
>>94816633
Or better yet, I can demand a refund and leave them a bad review telling them not to use DHL because they are dogshit.
>>
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I've been working on this guy off and on since I think July. I think I'm going to give him a base and move on for the sake of my backlog. Pretty happy with how he turned out.
>>
>>94816719
Mmm yes that's very nice.
>>
>>94816504
What kit is that anon?
>>
>>94816478
What kind of palette do you use?
>>
>>94815759
My God Anon I’m overwhelmed. Please make a note of what sort of stuff you like and I’ll do my best to repay your kindness.
>>
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>>94816875
A wet palette, specifically: Stay Wet Handypallet.
>>
>>94816719
I mean what could you even add to that.
>>
>>94816921
non armor body details I guess. Last time I posted a knight here, someone made like 8 comments across 3 days telling me off for not doing more body details.

The back is kinda plain, but good god am I tired of the project. I've got another questoris to build, magnetize, and paint and 3 armigers do the same with and project fatigue is deep.
>>
>>94816731
Thank you
>>
>>94816261
looking good
>>
>>94816719
Looks nice and clean. A bit boring maybe, as its just two/three metallics.
But with a proper base it will look good.
>>
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Made some progress on these three. Other than cleaning up, I think the purple is finally done on them. Still a fair bit to go though. Don't know why I included the back photo, the light made it impossible to see anything anyway.
>>
How do I kitbashmaxx?
There's dudes out there who look at random crap and immediately envision and build really cool terrain/vehicles.
>>
>>94817332
Nice purple.
>>
>>94817374
That's just having an eye for it, which can be trained to some extend by trying it a lot, but I think might be the closest thing to an expression of innate talent there is in art.
Anyone can learn to paint with enough effort, but not anyone can learn to be creative.
>>
>>94817374
You need to be an Ork to see spikes and red colour everywhere you look.

I always struggle to eyeball the dimensions of such toys when i see something cheap.
>>
>>94817374
Dudes look at cardboard packaging and cream their paints. But it's a ton of fun to convert stuff like that and looking at terrain prices also saves you a lot of money. Just need a little creativity, which I assume everyone here has.
>>
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>>94816504
Can't tell you exactly but if I had to try I'd mix a dark blue and purple wash until I got the shade I wanted.
>>94816531
Super cute
>>94816719
Very clean. As the other anon said, base is going to be important here.
>>94817332
I really like the purple/violet.
>>
>>94816915
This is probably more expensive and worse than my DIY wet palette
>>
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>>94817394
>I always struggle to eyeball the dimensions of such toys when i see something cheap.
Models and vehicles in the 40K universe vary greatly in size, so even if you are off by a bit, you can still repurpose it for another faction maybe.

I got really lucky. My dad has a lot of old soviet car models, which work perfectly as they are in my Fallout RPG.
>>
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>>94817430
I know the minis are still unpainted, but I -literally- have over a hundred of them in my huge pile of shame.
>>
>>94817382
>>94817414
Thanks. It took an awful long time to glaze all that purple and I'm still not really happy with the results, but it's slowly looking better as I paint everything else in. The necromancer for example looked like shit until I did his skin and the brown on that book weirdly. Now he's starting to look like something.
>>
>>94817406
Shit I have a few things like this waiting to be thrown out. I should do something with those.
>>
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>>94817430
>>94817432
Those oldschool eastern block vehicles certainly have their charm.

>40K universe vary greatly in size

True, but you always have spergs who claim that someone is modeling for advantage in a competitive game if the ork buggy is slightly smaller than it should be etc.
But in general you are right of course, almost anything can be made into a grimdark or post-apocalyptic version. Pic related is that famous buzz lightyear toy van turned into a necromunda truck.
>>
>>94817432
>over 100 unpainted minis
Fucking hell, stop buying new shit before you finished what's already there.
>>
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>>94817531
Oh yeah, people went crazy for that new Buzz Lightyear toy line.
>>
>>94816767
I have no idea, it's from an EC army but I don't collect any sort of marines, I just loved the painting scheme he used on it
>>
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Wip Finally magnetised the weapons for my legio astraman titan "sanctified wraith" and I think I've blocked in everything base wise.

I can probably start painting the model properly now

The marines will be raven guard

The little car is from a dropzone commander terrain set
>>
>>94817685
guy looks like he means business with all that firepower
>>
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>>94816246
>>94816351
I used vallejo matt varnish applied by brush, why is it so fucking aggressive with the paint below makes me mad it fucked up the hardest details to get right.

am i supposed to water the varnish down? also it says matt varnish but that shit ends up shinier than just paint

…heres a gay little lizard i painted to test a green recipe
>>
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Gents if you're overwhelmed by your backlog or have low motivation, I highly recommended painting individual colours to their completion before moving on to the next. Releases the endorphins for finishing a task more gradually it seems, very fulfilling.
>>
>>94815433
>>94815642
Don't buy the old VMC bottles. The caps break and lots of paints are already old and "rotten". Buy the new bottles, they are way better.
>>
>>94818003
Did you use 28.518? Thats the one i have and you need to shake it really well, i usually do 1-2 minutes. And yeah i think you should thin it down
>>
>>94817406
Meanwhile, at the Hall of Justice ...
>>
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hey guys, I need feedback/suggestions for this test model before I do the rest of them. In particular the green clothing and the staff
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>>94817566
>Zeeks having ships with the cockpit on the same axis as the wings
lol no
>>
For you sub assembly bros, what do you use to hold the mini in between it and the cork?
>>
>>94818899
Usually you drill a tiny hole where you won't see it then stick a paper clip into it and the cork
>>
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>>94818899
When that's necessary, some combination of wooden toothpick, paperclip, and/or poster putty. Some parts of the sub-assembly you might be able to attach to the model's base, at which point you can use a painting handle or the equivalent for that part.
>>
>>94818003
vallejo has two types of varnish, check if that one is polyurethane or not. I think it's the white bottles
>>
>>94818732
>>
>>94818899
ideally I can drill a hole and put a pin in it, otherwise it's some combination of blu tack, tooth picks and prayers.
>>
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Never priming in black again, i’m starting to lose my mind trying to basecoat these
>>
>>94819181
Do zenithal, best of both worlds.
>>
>>94819181
Fuck that, not on tau at least. You're probably better off priming them grey
>>
>>94817415
Did you forget to add a picture of your palette with your post?
I don't really get how a palette can be noticeably worse anyway. It's just a box with a sponge that I put squares of parchment paper over. Maybe get a nicer box, like a rust-resistant tin instead?
>>
>>94819181
Tau without airbrush are pain in the ass anyway.
>>
>>94819181
i hate painting Tau
>>
>>94819395
see >>94819367
It's a lot of fun with airbrush, but absolute suffering without it.
>>
Metal minis have their problems, but being able to strip them really quickly and completely with harsher chemicals is pretty great.
>>
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Finished my first female mini!
Do you think Berserker Bloodshade or Athonian Camodhade could enhance the mini and if yes, where to apply?
My biggest regret is, I used a ton of paint layers because I had trouble, so her abs are kinds not visible any more (pain)
>>
>>94819616
Oh my God, this looks horrible.
I swear it's not that bad IRL
>>
>>94819616
I think what you should do is
>a redish-brown wash on the skin, and then a couple of highlights with that color you have on their now where it makes sense
>Recess shade the chest green part and wash the green fabric with a darker green, same deal, but do edge highlights on the chest and some boob volumetrics
>highlight the hair

Overall the thing is fine color wise, the layers don't even look crazy thick or anything, but whole thing would benefit from general shading and highlights.
>>
My first coomer KDM minis are finally here after being stuck in canada post shipping hell for over 2 months!
>>
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>>94819662
Enjoy, I really like those. What did you get, anon?
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>>94819616
Just about all of it could be improved by a wash of some kind (or other forms of significantly increased shading). Contrast paints might work as washes here, as they're fundamentally the same, contrasts simply stain things overall a lot more while the washes try to be very translucent except for where they gather.
As for which one and where.. that's gonna be an exercise for the reader. Do you think a dark camo green staining of the purple parts would look good? Think a bit about these things, and then get yourself black and dark brown washes, as odds are you'll use more of either of those than of every other wash combined as you keep painting stuff.
>>
>>94819395
>>94819367
>>94819203
Since these are for kill team and i “only” have 5 left to paint i won’t airbrush the remaining ones, would’ve been a lot easier though

>>94819197
Did that for my aquilons, thought it wasnt worth it but i might give it another shot until my black primer runs out
>>
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Tried quickly banging out a model after a few months of painting hiatus just to get back into the flow again. Tried focusing mostly on the skin and saved my efforts on the rest, since the model is basically all skin. Quite happy with how he turned out and managed to shake off the rust a bit.
>>
I love drybrushing so fucking much
>>
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Use my new airbrush to zenithal my goblin and thicc succubus. Think I'll start basecoating the goblin now
>>
>>94820007
thiccubus is excellent.
>>
>>94820007
Nice, I'm waiting for 3 twin goddess gobbos to arrive, can't wait
>>
>>94819685
I was not expecting this to be what the kit was like, I thought the painter scale would be a lot fewer pieces, but this works. Will need a lot of prep and cleaning though I think.
>>
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>>94820007
>>
>>94820039
I got this exact girl from my SS. The assembly wasn't that bad, some parts don't fit particularly tight together though. It's gonna be a bit of work to fill all the gaps
>>
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>>94819561
Agreed.
>>
>>94820112
I have a mini where the plastic base broke off and it's got a bunch of caked on supegrglue like a mm thick, acetone bath go brrrrr though.
>>
>>94820154
>base broke off
I meant to mention that the plastic base broke off with the metal feet, and now the acetone is quickly melting the base away completely cleanly.
>>
>>94820112
Goof odd + wire brush will take spray paint off of concrete, its good stuff. A shame that acetone and xylene are both really nasty chemicals.
>>
>>94820266
They're nasty, but they are definitely useful some of the time.
>>
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>>94814271
Do skewers like >>94814934 said. Using more than one per body part should keep them secure. See picrel
>>
>>94814144
Citadel paints are good actually
>>
Anyone has scan of the tutorial leaflet from vallejo's wood&leather set?
>>
>>94820782
Some of them, yeah. There are some really bad ones though
>>
>>94820782
They're okay, but those literally cost double, so there's no reason to buy them.
>>
>>94820782
Tamiya/Mr Hobby/Aqueous are like, 3~$ for .8 oz, DecoArt/FolkArt are like 5~7$ for 4oz... and Citadel are what? 10$+ for .8 oz? (CAD pricing) Also... Any good artist inks?

That makes them like ... 3~4x as expensive at least.
>>
>>94819885
Also decided to have a go at this guy, gym goals.
>>
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>>94821091
what if i also added the image i think that'd be cool
>>
>>94821103
This is tangential but I wonder if big mangled bulky models would make for good skin practice, like a few mutants, since they're skin won't be in perfect shape anyway
>>
>>94814737
Surely this is the final one. Now everyone has gotten their gifts and we can get back to basics?
>>
>>94821337
what did he mean by this?
>>
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today's 'nid
tried to create something like a Red-backed poison frog
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>>94821429
I would have gone much more red, made bigger, more varied, and rounder black dots, and put a line of dots down the spine and above the brows to really steal the frog's whole fit. Judging it purely as a Nid scheme it's a little plain, like it wants for another color, maybe the recessed/fleshy bits could be blue or purple instead of more orange.
>>
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>>94820007
Almost done with the base colors, at least on the gobbo. Gotta do the ropes around the bomb and the ones on her kneepads, then the base itself.

Anyone have any tips for the yellow lenses? Haven't really don't lenses like that before.
>>
>>94815449
If you think it will be fine and are going to do it anyway why did you even bother to ask us dude
>>
>>94821599
Oh and clean up some of the skin obviously, but I can do that when I start layering.
>>
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>>94816512
You sound like you're a bit on the spectrum no offense
>>
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Tree's done. Got a bit of the drybrush on his front foot but it's not bugging me enough to bother fixing it
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>>94821661
really cool man. Would love to play a game of kill team on that
>>
I got Path of Exile 2 and played for 12 hours without a break :( . Slept then kept playing today... Now I'm forcing myself to paint with God as my witness...
>>
>>94821731
very cool tree, anon.
>>
>>94821731
Looks very nice, can't even tell there's an error on foot.
>>
>>94821731
What's your photo set up?
>>
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I'm currently printing this cute little Owl Bear and realised I don't have a dark enough brown for the deepest parts. Would it look weird if I airbrushed the underside of the raised fur clumps in a dark purple to act as a shadow? The rest of it is going to be brown
>>
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>>94821896
Still pretty much this only with a white piece of fabric instead. Oh and I got a proper lamp some time ago, makes it easier to take clean pictures
>>
thighs
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>>94821984
>>
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First crack at a new Nighthaunt scheme, not sure how I feel about the yellow flame yet.
>>
>>94822121
I like it. The flame goes well with the rest, I wouldn't change it. I do think the ghosts would benefit from one more highlight though
>>
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All right I'm gonna batch paint all these guys as fast as I can. 13:30 local time
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>>94822121
Nice paint job but what am I looking at here? Tangle of ghosts around some floating wooden debris... with a ribcage attached?
>>
>>94822217
Awlrach the Drowner - serial killer ferryman in life, ghost taxi in death.
>>
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feet
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>>94822586
Look at them gams boys!!
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>>94821731
Man, with that sword, nobody's looking at the foot.
>>
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>>94822751
Why did you?
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>>94821731
I like your snek and I don't even see a problem with the foot
>>
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Marines put together so I have something to prime instead of wasting these warm days in the winter
>>
>>94822786
He brought it up.
>>
>>94822857
Oh right, sorry, I was looking at the feet.
>>
Has anybody here used white acrylic ink from FW, Amsterdam, or Sennelier?
My crappy Artist's Loft white ink is gunked enough for me to give up on it, so I'm wondering if the other formulations are better. I'd rather not buy Liquitex ink because the lids are hard to open, skill issue but w/e.
>>
>>94822841
Such bullshit GW removed Death or Glory. Grenade guy is THE model to try it
>>
>>94822894
I'm not sure if it's acrylic or what, in fact I'm pretty sure it isn't. But I quite like this Bombay white India ink. Very strong pigment even when diluted with more than half water or other medium.
>>
>>94822925
Wow, the label even says it's approved by John Blanche.
>badum tss
Does it adhere to acrylic well? Do you ever mix it with paints?
>>
>>94822894
I've used the daeler rowney fw white and liked it, but it can be a little temperamental. You definitely need a little flow improver mixed in to help with dry tip, I use 80:20 thinner to flow improver. You also need to go slow since it likes to splatter if you push it too hard. Finally it is pretty delicate once dry and will tear if you do like an oil wash on it so a layer of varnish helps. I've honestly just switched to proacryl white and ivory for zenithals since they're just as opaque as the ink but a stronger finish.
>>
>>94822943
it adheres fine in my experience. I wouldn't mix this with paints though, but I'm not sure why? Normally I'll use a very small amount of plain jane white craft paint or a Tamiya like product if I want to mix white into something. Habit I guess.

I tend to use Tamiya/Mr Hobby / Aqueous paints, and various acrylic inks, more than I do actual acrylics. (I do mix inks into metallic mediums tho)

I use India ink for the high pigmentation levels and the flow, so I'm a bit hesitant to use them for things that don't need those two features.
>>
I often see people using liquitex for painting but are these good for painting minis? I only painted a few minis now and used AP/vallejo for painting, and I kinda want to get more paint coverage
>>
>>94821927
That'll work great
t. fellow purple enthusiest
>>
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>>94822202

black done on 29, 18 remaining. Coffee time
>>
>>94820792
what are the worst GW paints and what are the best alternatives to them?
>>
>>94823092
These have worse coverage than hobby paints, imo. The Liquitex products I prefer over hobby paints are their acrylic inks, which have very good coverage. In terms of craft paints, I find _specific_ Applebarrel (black), FolkArt & DecoArt paints to be good. Certain craft paints are definitely as useable as hobby paints, but not all.

I did learn using those Liquitex paints though, so they're definitely useable enough. Maybe they've gotten better over the past years? If you have any big terrain projects planned you might as well buy a set of them and try them out. Worst comes to worst you just use them for things that are poorly suited to the expensive paints.

>>94823160
Overall I find it extremely hard to justify buying any GW paints, but I _do_ try to keep Nihithak oxide on hand. I also liked one of their purples, a yellow, and one of their oranges, but not enough to keep them on hand.

I've mostly converted to using Tamiya/Mr Hobby/Aqueous as previously stated. Takes a bit to get used to them but their cost & coverage I find far superior to most hobby paints (plus, between those three lines there is an incredible number of colours). There's a 4th brand I use who's name I forget; cute cursive font on the bottle and mostly light pastel colours.
>>
>>94823092
I used basics for a while. Don't do it. They're for economically going through a shit ton of paint for classes, or saving money if they result doesn't matter as much. Basically the opposite of dedicated mini paints.
The professional range actually do have good coverage, as well as wider pigment range, but as an artist-quality line you have to look up the pigments in each because they are willing to use toxic pigments.
I would recommend Golden fluid acrylic. They only make professional quality, and as a fluid it's closer to mini paints. Same warning goes for pigments but they have really good safety labeling.
Professional heavy body can have its benefits but overall I regret going down that rabbit hole.
>>
>>94822202
>>94823135
Very neat color profile, looking forward to seeing them finished anon.
>>
>>94823227
>Tamiya/Mr Hobby/Aqueous
The water based acrylic ones? Or the enamels by something other than brush?
>>
>>94822992
Is the vallejo metal medium any good? That's the only one I know of near me
>>
>>94823160
The whites like corax white. Get either reaper or proacryl white, both are really nice and smooth without the chalkiness you sometimes get in white.
>>
>>94823757
Grey seer honestly does seem a bit better than corax white and it's basically the same. It's at least an improvement.
>>
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>>94821599
Man those ropes were annoying to paint. Base colors pretty much done save for a couple of small fixes. Shading and highlighting tomorrow. Open to tips and advice, I'm still pretty new to painting.
>>
>>94823963
This model is just a little too coomery for me, but I do like the spunky attitude she's got. I've almost bought it many times.
>>
>>94823985
you could get the version that has a loincloth rather than the string thong
>>
>>94823963
Looks like you've got good coverage. Colors look nice too, very warm.
>>
I might be late to the party but I think art schizo, from a few months back, was an AI.
>long posts in paragraph form
>exhaustive information that was usually slightly wrong
>authoritatively stated "facts" but never citations
Now that I've seen a lot of the Google AI summaries, it reminds me of art schizo a lot.
The only hole in my theory is that he would get combative with anons, but that doesn't rule out the "information" being by AI.
>>
>>94824722
What kind of content were they posting specifically? I don't remember this.
>>
>>94824722
He was complimenting specific parts and color choices of peoples paintjobs though, can an AI do that yet?
>>
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More Skeeter progress.
I screwed up and but the eye glow on the wrong side for the hooded rider. Would've worked much better the other way.
Finally figured out why I bought mini droppers, it's so I can get paint out of the god-forsaken citadel paint pots.
Getting more brush control and making less mistakes, but still making alot of mistakes. Working on trying to be more systematic so I don't keep going back and forth between colors.
Dropping into hour long trances where I don't get up. What has painting done to me.

Tomorrow I'll give a final pass to all the skeeters and move on to The Captain. Then I get to move on to Colette Du Bois, so I'm going to the store tomorrow to pick up an extra flesh ton or two, probably a brighter purple as well.
>>
>>94821996
Hi squchan
>>
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Divegrass base for the rat
Do you typically put all the basing material on before or after the model? I'd like to know better basing methods for next time
I'll rim this guy tomorrow I'm just really beat from crossing superglue with grass
>>
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>>94825380
>I'll rim this guy tomorrow
>>
>>94814548
>>94814537
>>94814521
We all make mistakes sometimes
>>
>>94823963
So why did you zenithal prime this again? Your paint is completely opaque, you are gaining nothing from it.
>>
Was watching a video while waiting for an acrylic wash to dry and saw that at 16:15 this guy says that AK Ultramatte now has a problem where it "goes shiny after six months."
Anybody had this happen?
>source
https://youtu.be/YbifoN8wiHA?t=975
I did some googling and also found this post which says that over time even without handling AK Ultramatte will revert to a shinier finish.
https://www.reddit.com/r/boltaction/comments/1fulpsa/ultra_matte_varnish_turns_glossy_over_time/
Bad batch or if true then what is a good ultramatte alternative to AK ultra matte?

I double varnish my minis with gloss and then an ultramatte over it for gaming purposes. That way when the gloss becomes visible I'll know to just matte it down via a brush, but having the varnish go from matte to shiny on its own doesn't sit right with me.
>>
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>>94823963
would
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>>94814548
Admech quality control, gotta love it.
>>
>>94823509
>>94823509
Thanks, it only took 2.5 - 3 years to make my mind up on the colours :) I'm done for the night, but I'm "working" from home tomorrow, so I'll finish them off then!
>>
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still working on this.
I don't think I will add a sword like in the art. It wrecks the flow.
Any gubbins that should go on?
>>
>>94825770
real niggas use mr. super clear or tamiya flat clear
but anyways from my understanding, matte varnish getting glossy over time is somewhat inevitable while handling minis since it happens not due to a defect of the product itself but because over time the layer of topcoat becomes coated in oils from the skin which evens out the microscopically rough surface of the topcoat that causes the matte effect
>>
>>94825855
whoops, he is the right way up in the art too
>>
>>94825855
What about a Star Glaive and something like these anal beads in the other hand?
>>
>>94825859
>matte varnish getting glossy over time is somewhat inevitable while handling minis
>NTA but
I looked at the video and the R*dd*t link and both sources imply that it happens over the course of time even without handling. Is this just the way it is or is this a sign of a defective product?
I've only ever used rattlecan varnishes.
>>
>>94826314
>it happens over the course of time even without handling
If that happens with that specific product only then yes, seems like a bad product
I’ve had a bunch of gunpla sprayed with tamiya ts-80 matte rattlecan topcoat sit untouched for 5+ years without matte finish deteriorating
>>
>>94814246
Is there any blood paint that is better than Citadel Blood for blood god?
>>
>>94826380
Well shit. I have AK Ultramatte and Glossy varnish from the LGS.
This sucks.
What's a good airbrush alternative AK's Ultramatte then?
>>
>>94826489
Tamiya Clear Red for fresh and add a bit of Tamiya Smoke to darken it up for a deeper clotted blood. GSW also has a similar recipe I think in dropper bottles.
>>
>>94826565
I don't have Tamiya Smoke, can i just use normal brown or grey?
>>
>>94826497
Mr. Color GX 112/114 would be my recommendation
Do be aware that those are lacquer paints tho
>>
Any general advice on using a dremel? Is it too “strong” to drill barrels? What kind of bits are good for grinding away plastic? Got one for Christmas and might try it out tonight to do some converting on my ork nobs to put a slugga in an empty hand and make it look cleaner then just slicing off the whole wrist.

Pic related, I wanna try carving out the hand without cutting off the wrist gaurd to help hide the size difference of the new hand.
>>
>>94826700
They come in different sizes/strengths.
>>
>>94826700
Just train on the sprue first, there ain't much to it.
>>
>>94826489
AP has a pair of new blood paints that look pretty good, not sure if they're better since I'm still working through a couple of old BftBG pots.
>>
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>>94826489
I use Vallejo fresh blood. The dropper bottle makes it easier to load your brush up but it tends to clog in the tip of the bottle
>>
>>94826700
If it's an actual Dremel then note the RPM adjustment slider. When it comes to things like drilling barrel and the like that's your "how quickly will this start to melt the plastic" adjustment. If it's a knockoff or some model without that then be ware that the friction heat of drilling plastic can result in the plastic melting, resulting in a much bigger hole than the drill if you're not careful. Either way a bit of practice on some sprue bits or so might not be the worst idea.
As for cutting, well, just about anything will likely be able to chew or, if it comes to that, melt its way through plastic. Given that you want clean cuts I guess we're back to just experimenting on bits of sprue (though I'd really recommend something like a photoetched saw blade for your hobby knife instead of any kind of power tool there). Dremels themselves are made to be capable of working things like steel, and so are a lot of the tool bits for them. The polystyrene plastics we play with are relatively speaking much more akin to butter.
>>
>>94826641
>Do be aware that those are lacquer paints tho
I was hoping for acrylic recommendations, but I'll put Mr. Color GX 112/114 on the list of alternatives.
Still open for alternatives. How's AMMO's Ultramatte?
I'm not touching Vallejo's varnishes because of their polyurethane chasing meme mediums.
>>
>>94824781
Have you seen how hard it is to solve image captcha these days... mf, it's been able to do that shit for YEARS.
>>
>>94823572
I use the "water" based acrylic ones. As shown in: >>94822925. They're not really water based imo tho. I mostly thin them with isopropyl alcohol (or the Tamiya thinner when I have it).

>>94823625
I've heard vajello metallics are good but I personally don't have any experience with them. My current favourite metallic is the top left bottle in >>94822925, it's very amenable to mixing with inks, speed paints, etc. (Any other paint that is translucent) and I love it because it lets me get pretty much any colour of metallic while maintaining a good shine. My two other favourite metallics are Tamiya gunmetal & chrome, but those both have a stronger pigment in them and are harder to colour. (Tamiya copper is also good, but it's very very pale so I like it as a highlight over DecoArt copper)

>>94825559
MUH COVERAGE!

>>94826489
This: >>94826565 along with Army Painter blood red & slaughter red speed paint.
>>
>>94826902
Yo I never even considered melting as a factor. Thanks anon I will definitely practice on some spru first. My brain just looked at it like sanding wood. I’ll be sure to post some results tonight
>>
>>94825559
Makes it easier on the eyes to see what's going on with the model while painting and gives you a better idea of where highlights and color gradients should go.
>>
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is the blue out of place? I know it's not tacky but I feel like it would look better if I used a dark german grey or darker green. C&C appreciated for the rest of this guy's unit
>>
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>>94827763
Looks good anon. He's got those cut off jorts.

>>94825018
Looking good! Not sure what's going on with the rider though... Is he facing backwards?

>>94823963
Curious to see how this turns out. Initial thought is that I agree with the other anon, dunno what you used a zenithal with paints this thick? You definitely got the colours in the right spots though, and I'm guessing you're going for a comic book style so the heavy colours work! Keep it up anon, you're doing great.

>>94823135
Super curious about these minis. They look to be... 4+ different races? Very cool.

Picrel is one of my current (of many) WIPs. He hits people with the person wrapped in chains. Gonna make this very bloody at some point.
>>
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This cute girl is coming along. Finally got the base colours to a point I'm happy with after like... Over a half dozen sessions of painting.
>>
... It's so over.

Dropped him AGAIN and he absolutely exploded this time.

rip.
>>
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>>94826489
I dont like BFTBG cause it looks really glossy and gross and tacky and over-the-top.

It might not be what you had in mind, but I like to use berzerker bloodshade on weapons to kind of "stain" them like old paper or the hands of a painter subtlely but deeply change color. it looks old and heavily used but it's more a tint and not fresh blood. pic rel has it on the chainsword

>>94827847
what the FUCK am I looking at??

>>94826883
this blood actually looks p good. most of the time people just kid of slop BFTBG on like a wash and it looks like melted candy
>>
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>>94827894
This, but... Disassembled.

Probably should've checked what I was focused on but just looking at it makes me demotivated.
>>
>>94827847
bruh...
>>
>>94827272

If you want to be fancy you might consider a dedicated lower powered drill. This is not a recommendation, it is a suggestion, I have not tried one myself, though I am planning to and I've had one in my online shopping cart bunch of times

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3NYu2qundE

https://youtu.be/CpbJgXxUR0c?t=60
>>
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>>94827921
>>94827847
>>
I seen alot of youtube guys shilling that new Army Painter Johny Blanlache something paint set. Is Army Painter paint good?
>>
>>94827763
With the greens, blue pants, red skull and yellow-leaning bits he's certainly very colourful. I think you have room to dull down the pants if you feel like it (brightness and/or saturation).

>>94827894
>gross
Kind of the point I think...

> it looks old and heavily used
Doesn't really look like bloodstains though IMO.
>>
>>94828087
If a youtuber says something is good, it might be good. There is at least a chance.
If a bunch of youtubers say something is good all at once there is a zero percent chance it's good.
>>
>>94828087
The new fanatic line is probably some of the best paint available currently.
>>
>>94828123
>amy painter is top tier
>vallejo is mediocre tier or even below
What a time to be alive. I wonder what was the reasoning behind moving to that new polyurethane or whatever medium
>>
>>94828087
Of course they are shilling it, they are paid. AP opened pre-orders on the set and these motherfuckers got it early.

That said, I like new AP colors and the set finally bring some darker colors. Which the original selection direly lacked - which is also pretty much my only critique; the new AP paints were a bit too bright/pale for my tastes.
>>
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>>94827847
picrel
>>94826883
What's wrong with the guys jaw? Did he have an accident while mowing his lawn or something
>>
>>94828281
Terrible mewing accident
>>
>>94823963
I want to play a Pathfinder campaign as a crazy goblin alchemist bomber
>>
>>94828087

The new Fanatic range is good and massive improvement compared to the old Warpaints. They did make the range more opaque, so the paints cover much better, but they sacrificed some saturation because of that. Especially some high level painters don't like that the colors are a bit desaturated, but there are also bunch of pros who like the range a lot. I actually enjoy the Fanatic paints more than Vallejo's new formula.
>>
>>94828207

>I wonder what was the reasoning behind moving to that new polyurethane or whatever medium

Didn't the company get bought? I'd imagine it's greedy venture capitalists just trying to cut costs to squeeze an even bigger profit. The worker's strike indicated the company has fucked up problems.
>>
>>94828557
Vallejo? Yeah it got VC'd.
Did they move all their paints to their awful surface primer polyurethane shit though?
>>
I kind of detest how pretentious, for lack of a better word, mini painting has become, and I miss the days of simple sculpts given functional paintjobs in bright colors that make them easily readable on the tabletop.
Anyone else feel that way or is it just me?
>>
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>>94826489
just for you anon
>>
>>94828881
>mini painting has become

It did not. Its your feeds in wherever you look at pictures or videos that give you that impression. Stop being affected by that, or ignore it/dont watch that stuff if you cant detach your own painting from it.
>>
>>94828881
There are pros and cons, but I do feel that.
I'm all for pro painters taking shit to the next level in competitions, I don't have an issue with that. But I have mixed feelings on the sculpts. All hyper detailed digitally sculpted stuff now, a lot of it's not what I would consider painter friendly even if they do look good.

Annoying analogy incoming:
When it comes to fashionable every day clothes, You want to be wearing your clothes and not vise versa, if you're familiar with that phrase. That kind of reverses in things like high fashion, in fashion shows the models are supposed to be walking coat hangers (exceptions because there is model fame, but generally that's the idea).
Mainstream minis in the past, just by virtue of needing to be hand sculpted and realistically mold-able were simplistic and it was easy to have your paint job shine through, or do customizations relatively easily without it looking incongruous. Now, models are so complicated and overdetailed that customizations are borderline out of the question for many people and the best bet to paint them well is paint by numbers until you reach a pretty high level of painting, and even then the physical sculpt of the model is still the highlight of the finished product unless you're a very high level painter.
To return to the analogy, in the past it was easy for your paintjob to be wearing your model and be the main focus to be your work. Now it's on the other end of the spectrum where the model is wearing the paintjob, which is good in the fashion example, but in this case the paintjob is your part and the model is the generic corporate product.

I don't think one is inherently better than the other, the newer models are objectively impressive and allow for the best painters to really elevate them and display their own skills, but I do think it's made the hobby a little more soulless (for lack of a better term) broadly.
>>
>>94829020
Not gonna lie this just kind of sounds like you prefer worse models because you enjoy the work that goes into making them look good
Which is fine, but I don't know if that necessarily has anything to do with the current hobby being "soulless" as much as the tendencies of companies like GW to push singular corporate-approved artstyles (which even affects paintjobs due to the biased scoring of competitions like Golden Demon leading to homogenization around a painting "meta") and not allowing individual artists and sculptors to express themselves
>>
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>>94828881
This anon >>94829014 got it right. Don't let your hobby be influenced by youtube/instagram shills and you'll find a lot more joy in it. Nobody is forcing you to paint overdetailed GW sculpts to display standard, you know. You can just as well get 3d prints like >>94823963 which I feel would fall into "wearing your clothes" analogy >>94829020 brought up. With 3d printing becoming so widely available I'm sure there will be even more and better minis as time goes on.
>>
>>94829129
>Nobody is forcing you to paint overdetailed GW sculpts to display standard

While i have a printer myself, there is nothing wrong with painting GW stuff too.
Its this part Anon should ignore if he isn't enjoying it:
>to display standard

There is absolutely nothing wrong in painting base colours, applying a wash and maybe (!) putting some highlights here and there and calling it a day.
>>
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>>94823963
Shading done. Probably will take a break for a bit. I always get nervous highlighting, feels like Im gonna ruin what's already there.

Also, god damn I hate eyes.
>>
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>>94828881
Ehhh... I guess? I just paint my stuff and have fun. :3
>>
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>>94829290
>>
>>94828881
No clue, I never played anything, I just enjoy kitbashing and painting minis. The sculpts are, however, objectively getting better and better over the years, both by fidelity and quality.
>>
>>94829322
>No clue, I never played anything, I just enjoy kitbashing and painting minis
very based
>>
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>>94828590
>Yeah it got VC'd.
>>
>>94829129
>>94829187
what if I'm against both GW and 3D printing
>>
>>94828207
Vallejo is better than ever.

>muh bubbles

Paint slower and stop agitating the paint so much on the palette
>>
>>94829564
>Paint slower and stop agitating the paint so much on the palette
Or, you know, get a different brand where you don't have to worry about this shit. Feels like an easy choice to me
>>
>>94829546
Then paint something else. There are plenty of things to choose from
>>
>>94827821
>Super curious about these minis. They look to be... 4+ different races? Very cool.

Thanks! Close ups soon.. There are tau, Ratmen, Dwarfmen, Lizardmen, and humans across 4 units: pathfinders, fire warriors and 2x breachers.
>>
Hey gang, maybe you can help. I'm painting up some terrain, i put AK streaking grime allover it and then used the ak white spirit to remove most of it. That was over a week ago, my terrain pieces are now really sticky and have a bit of a "sheen" to them, i think the sheen will get removed with a matt varnish, but now when i try to paint ontop of where the grime used to be the paint isnt sticking properly. I guess its residue left over from the spirits? Any suggestions on how i can get rid of it? Would a sponge and water get rid of it? I'm worried it will damage the paintwork below. Thanks!
(also since when do i need to wait 900seconds to make a post?)
>>
>>94829659
>(also since when do i need to wait 900seconds to make a post?)
Yes it sucks, I just do the email verification thing.

(***Disclaimer - I've only tried oil washing once and I am likely a bit retarded.)
My experience with oil washes is that I can't be bothered for that very reason - It stays sticky and wet for so damn long. Mine took like 2 - 3 weeks to dry properly. Maybe I was doing something wrong, but it was drying for so long that dust and hairs got stuck in the drying paint and also I was just bored and frustrated wanting to move to the next step. Acrylics only for me .
>>
>>94829659

Its not the spirits. Its the streaking grime. It separates very, very quickly in the bottle. You need to get an agitator in there, shake it like a red-headed stepchild for a few minutes and then stir the shit out of it before you use it. When the medium begins to separate you start getting the sheen.

Also, did you use it straight out of the bottle? The best way to use it is by thinning it 1:1 with white spirit. You don't have to gloop it on to get the effect you're after.
>>
>>94829622
Does anyone still make new hand sculpted cast metal or resin models, or am I going to have to hunt down old models from the 80s and 90s?
>>
>>94829762
No. But there are still 3d prints (or casts) from people who know how to sculpt proper miniatures, they're just a minority.
You don't realize until you paint the hair on a shitty sculpt vs one sculpted by somebody who knows what they're doing.
>>
>>94829659
>Would a sponge and water get rid of it?
White spirits are not water-soluble. Which is kind of the point here, because it in return isn't be very good at dissolving water soluble things like regular acrylic paints. So your paintjob is less likely to take damage from the streaking grime (which is also not water-soluble, it's essentially a type of oil paint) or the solvent you use to wipe down the grime.
>>
>>94829793
Got any recommendations?
>>
>>94827821
>Looking good! Not sure what's going on with the rider though... Is he facing backwards?
The tiny face bit was lost to the carpet. I put some green stuff over it, trying to make it look like his face is covered in cloth.
>>
>>94829762
Of course. You think all those spin casting machines stopped working in 2011?
Ramshackle
Satyr Art
Gardens of Hecate
Victoria
Knightmare
Foundry
Crooked Dice
Mammoth
There are hundreds upon hundreds upon hundreds. Expand your search results.
>>94829793
Is a moron.
>>
>>94829719
This was the answer, can't believe i didn't think of it. I had this same issue with dirty down rust months ago and somehow didn't put two and two together and just used the stuff right out the pot. Thanks a ton anon! I wonder how i can best fix this now, I wonder if going over it again with white spirit will help remove the stickiness.

>>94829821
This makes alot of sense ty. Hopefully going over the models again with spirits will help remove this hodgepodge of grime/medium thats separatedin the bottle that ive put on the model.

>>94829680
I think i might have to do the same, still it feels weird being used to it as an anon board.
>>
>>94829924
>nothing but "you just had to be there :-)" kickstarter crap
>>
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>>94829322
>No clue, I never played anything, I just enjoy kitbashing and painting minis
>>
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>>94829631
>>94827821

Here's some closeups of the various infantry lads.
Black all done, browns next.
>>
>>94830000
uhhh, I know at least Knightmare has a good webstore where you can get everything. Crowdfunding is just essential for making your own stuff I guess, how else are you going to raise funds without big corporations backing you??? If you really can't be bothered engaging in that stuff then just sculpt your own or buy old stuff second hand.
>>
>>94830068
I have a strong personal distaste for FOMO marketing and artificial scarcity and won't purchase from anyone engaging in it
>>
>>94829973

Give the white spirits a try. It won't get rid of the sheen, but it will get rid of the streaking grime. Just like alcohol will remove acrylic paint even when its cured, white spirit will do the same for oil paint. Just be a little more abrasive than usual, but don't go too hard at it or you'll lift the paint underneath too.
>>
>>94830082
Fair enough. But not all crowdfunding is FOMO marketing. Like knightmare's recent chaos dwarfs for example, they used kickstarter or something to pay the costs of making the models, now anyone will be able to buy them from the webstore. What's the problem with that? I'm not sure what you mean by artificial scarcity, what do you mean by that?
>>
>>94830121
Crowdfunding for something possible to buy normally afterwards is fine, what pisses me off is releasing your product only for your kickstarter backers and then never making it again.
>>
>>94830082
>>94830121
Ramshackle games is another cool example, the guy makes molds / casts for anyone who wants to , then sells them on his webstore.
>>
>>94830130
Yea that sounds gay and lame. There's a few cool obscure miniature suppliers out there who don't do that , last time I looked around. You just have to do a lot of search engine labour or I have found stuff through people on instagram who post where they got stuff.
>>
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How long do you guys usually wait after assembling to prime a mini? I was trying to smell it to see if the cement has evaporated off yet, but I'm totally fucking noseblind to it atm, so idk.
>>
>>94830246
i don't and it never even occurred to me
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Pretty much done with this guy, just need the missle pod on top. Worked 3 days nonstop on this, did some shit I dont do at all like pin washing. Im happy with it.
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>>94830265
Now I can go back to not painting for a year.
>>
>>94830246
I usually give plastic cement and sprue goo a good day to fully cure before priming.
>>
>>94830265
Looks solid! Are you going to do any transfers or freehands?
>>
>>94830000
Seems like most of those artists/manufactuers have webstores where you can purchase the minis from post-Kickstarter though.
>"you just had to be there :-)"
Yeah, it's suffering sometimes when supplies run out and you want a mini in a specific material. I have several saved ebay search for out-of-stock Malifaux kits that have like, two sold listings. Waiting...
>>
How do you all paint coomer minis without jerking off constantly?
>>
>>94830355
By not being a teenager anymore.
>>
I think this would be a good place to ask
I bought an MDF dice tower and it reeks, was I supposed to wash it or do I just let it air out?
I googled a bit and found they may use formaldehyde
>>
>>94830290
No transfers and im thinking about freehands. My mom is an artist and I've talked to her about painting flowers on it lol.
>>
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>Have so many ideas for projects across so many settings and armies
>New ideas keep coming to my mind all the fucking time
>Fulfilling them takes ages and requires so much effort
>I keep assembling, kitbashing, converting, sculpting and yet it constantly feels like I should add more or rework something and so I can't even get to painting stage
>Always feels like I could use even more bits...
>Because of this ancillary to hobby activities like 3d printing or recasting take a chunk of my time as well
>Multiple projects started and yet I have an urge to start more and rework my functional Death Guard and Marines because I find them lacking
This hobby is fucking insane. Or maybe I'm too autistic for it.
>>
>>94830265
Very cool
>>94830477
Very cute
>>
>>94830477
based beyond all mortal reckoning
>>
>>94830475
You have to rub piss and shit into it to get the smell out anon
>>
>>94830052
where'd you get these from? surely you didn't kitbash 'em all, right?
>>94829762
Northumbrian Tin Soldier and Burrows & Badgers come to mind
>>
>>94830485

You need to exercise some discipline
>>
>>94830265
bro you need to drill the heavy stubber barrel
>>
>>94830571
some are traditional kitbashes, the rats are skaven clanrats + firewarriors. The dwarfs are hearthkyn + firewarriors. The lizards are skinks + firewarriors, and the lizard pathfinders are 3d prints by orangebluehue on cults. Some of the humans are fireforge mercenaries + firewarriors . The fire warriors are digital kitbash of various free and paid stls from telegram, cults, and so on, which I 3d printed. The stealth suits are 3d prints, free on cults iirc.
>>
A bit of a longshot but does anyone have a size comparison of this model on a 80mm base? Was thinking of using it for a Lord Solar proxy but I'm not sure if it's too big or not.
>>
>>94830485
Decision paralysis lol. If you're autistic you best set some hard rules for yourself to wrangle your attention.
I've been working on my own "hobby laws" and my thought is:
- Only start projects I intend to finish and only work on that project until it's done.
- Projects should work toward some goal.
The first rule stops me from working on new projects endlessly, since if I want to work on something else I've got to finish what I'm currently doing.
The second rule makes sure I don't just cheap out halfway through a project and say 'done' when I'm just a little bit bored, since I'm working on the project to achieve some ultimate goal like building a whole army, developing a skill, creating a group for some AWG, etc.
>>
>>94829209
How does her ass smell?
>>
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>>94829762
Like >>94829924 said, there are plenty of of companies like that. Ever heard of Prince August?

You can even still get Citadel's old "Blandford Warriors" models from Wargames Foundry - the miniatures company in England that Bryan Ansell's family started years ago. They don't come with the old plinth bases like they used to when Citadel sold them, but that's OK. They probably stopped selling them that way before >>94829793 was even born.
>>
How come every GW announcement is so boring and disappointing?
>>
>>94831099
>They don't come with the old plinth bases like they used to when Citadel sold them
This is the only one I have in my collection.
>>
>>94831014
Green apple candy
>>
>>94830663
nice, good stuff anon
>>
>>94831153
***plus hummin' a pish and shite
>>
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Very tiny lenses.
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>>94831471
Nice. They look great.
>>
>>94826700
>Is it too “strong” to drill barrels?
For sure on plastic, metal?, it's just dangerous. Best to use hand drills for small parts.
>>
>>94826571
Yeah if it darkens it, go with brown.
>>
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>>94830275
Finished the missle pod now its done except for base. Im very happy with this, may be my best model. Sorry for shit pic but just wanted to add an aerial view.
>>
looking at primer claiming 'filler properties' to fill in minor cracks imperfections etc, safe to assume it would fuck with miniature details right?
>>
>>94832059

Yes
>>
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>>94821927
I FDM printed this Owl Bear. The purple under-shading got covered over by my brown painting since the ridges weren't that deep.
C&C welcome, aside from the obvious FDM layer lines (which aren't too bad in person) and the support scarring. I've been painting for about a year but never really tried to improve and kinda gave up quickly on a lot of things.
>>
>>94832295
You can still see the purple undercoat in places so it is still helping with the shadow effect. Bit hard to see but I would suggest next time either a bigger jump between your highlights and midtone or another set of lighter highlights on say the face/head/shoulders/less on the lower body as you go down. That just comes with practice and brush control. I think maybe a very light wash of a greyish blue on the white feathers would help them pop more but that is a small nitpick. All in all I like it.
>>
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>>94832295
Why is he making that face?
>>
>>94818077
>Don't buy the old VMC bottles... Buy the new bottles
That is my plan.
No one has an LGS to recommend, or is Vallejo that rare on store shelves in the US?

>>94818808
>In particular the green clothing and the staff
Make the hood and the shirt slightly different shades. Same for the three tusks--make them slightly different from one to another. What is the bright green stuff around the left shoulder? Some sort of fungal infection?
>>
>>94832404
> I would suggest next time either a bigger jump between your highlights and midtone or another set of lighter highlights on say the face/head/shoulders/less on the lower body as you go down.
That sounds good, at the moment I'm looking at it from a distance and I think some of the highlights kinda washed out. I think because I'm mostly looking at it so close I get a bit scared of doing big jumps because it looks weird.

>>94832414
Meant to be that it's waking up, wasn't sure how to do that with the eyes. I tried to paint the iris on the kinda closed eye but it just looked weird and then trying to paint the white of the eye looked even weirder, so I just gave up.
>>
>>94832420
i actually finished it last night. I shaded the clothing with agrax earthshade and I tried it on the bamboo armor (not the shield) as well instead of sepia. I find gore grunta fur is a really good brown-red wash when thinned and I used it for the crevices in the shield. you can see it here >>94827763
>>94827763


>fungal infection
the way it's painted I'm assuming it's some type of moss and I painted it the same way i did the vines.
>>
>>94828281
I didn't glue it together properly and didn't notice until it was too late. I actually kinda like how it looks, it makes him look more fucked up
>>
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got a 3d printer and im goin bit crazy my guy
>>
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>>94833032
Wait till you reach the coomer stage
>>
>>94833124
I want a slaanesh demon army full of 3d printed coomer models, idgaf it seems awesome.
>>
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>>94814246
anybody have recommendations for a good paint that would be like a non-metallic copper? Something deep ruddy-orange?
I've tried MSP bones volcanic orange and pro acryl burnt orange but the former's too bright and the latter's too brown
>>
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>>94833254
Vallejo Orange Brown?
>>
>>94833254
I like tamiya hull red
>>
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>>94833298
>>
>>94833254
Looks close to terra rosa, but it would likely be more on the orange side than what you posted.
>>
goldilocks'ing hard again lmao
>>94833291
feels too pale
>>94833298
>>94833313
>>94833315
feels too dark brown/red
>>
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I gave all the skeeters wings a different color to help them stand out. Vallejo clear orange works well over flesh tone.
Thinking I might want to get a different light for my desk since these guys look very dark in more neutral light. Also, I gave the Azure rider a face because I lost his other one.

I'll get a lightbox at some point I swear.
>>
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>>94833351
just pick one nigger copper comes in many shades
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>>94833414
>just settle for less
mmm no
>>
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>>94833254
Vallejo cavalry brown is kinda close to that. What i used for the skin undercoat here.
>>
>>94833426
it's not 'less' you just have autism. any one of the paints listed works fine
>>
>>94833430
That skin looks almost 1:1 what I'm looking for, what color primer is that over?
>>94833447
"no"
>>
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>>94833475
Mechanicus standard grey, but it's a pretty opaque paint so you should be good with whatever. Makes a fantastic base coat for skin too.
>>
>>94833481
Cheers! Figured I'd ask cause priming in brick red vs white/black/grey gives some wildly different results with some other browns and oranges I've been testing
>>
>>94833447
>Hey anybody have a paint to get this color?
>No but here's an entirely different color
>No thanks
>Saying no to that? What are you autistic?
>>
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That familiar feeling is settling in,, , batch fatigue... ran out of coffee too :(
>>
Where do you guys buy your paints and brushes?
>>
>>94833647
Internet
>>
>>94833647
maps.app.goo gl/atnXbycaZGPHj4YV7
>>
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I’m working on giving my archon an ork-hide cloak.
It’s a nice shade of green but it doesn’t feel leathery enough. How would I go about adding that leathery grit to it?
>>
>take interest in wargaming
>visit the shop a few times
>start collecting and painting towards an army
>fast forward about a year
>I now have a playable amount of minis painted, but can not even begin to fathom taking them to a shop to play games
I unironically want to buy a second army just to have a shittier one to actually play with. There's no fucking way I can hazard exposing something I've invested so much effort in to some LGS cretins, unwashed and uncoordinated as they are. Does anyone else have this problem? How do you cope?

I know this -could- probably go in 40kg or some shit instead, but I'd like to think this is pretty game-agnostic, and this general is massively more grounded.
>>
>>94833947
Either switch to a smaller game system (Killteam for example) or just tell the people you play with you dont want them to touch your minis (any sane person should be okay with that)
>>
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>>94800322
>>94800343
Now to figure out some shoulderpads for this guy.
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>>94833536
>i need a copper
>here's 5000 copper tones
>nah
yeah nah eat a dick moron
>>
>>94834010
takes a retard to not be able to pick a color in the first place let alone cry about 30 different options given to you. just desperate for interaction at that point
>>
>>94833987
I recognize your black highlights.
>>
>>94834010
Not even the original guy
He asked for paint recommendations for a specific color and you posted a bunch of hexcodes of unrelated colors, actually useless
>>
>>94834021
he asked for copper tones and multiple people gave him multiple copper tones. if you don't like the recs then fuck off and pick one yourself dipshit
>>
>>94834024
He asked for a SPECIFIC copper tone you braindead halfwit
Fucking redditor behaviour to go erm ackshually copper can have all sorts of colors heh gotcha...
>>
>>94834024
4chan attracts the most useless degenerate motherfuckers of all time. When people ask for help here they don't actually want help, they want attention
>>
>>94834028
Projection, considering you dredged this up to seethe about being told no after the guy literally got an answer already >>94833535
>>
>>94834027
>anybody have recommendations for a good paint that would be like a non-metallic copper? >Something deep ruddy-orange?
does your brain work? do you have one? is it cosmetic? is it smooth? makes me curious how you can operate a device that connects to the internet. do you have a handler helping you?
>>
>>94834033
>muh projection
Only people who spend 8+ hours a day on the internet use words like this. Pick a fucking color and shut the fuck up holy shit
>>
>>94834034
Do you? He literally posted a visual reference for what he was looking for and the first response was a brown beige and the second was maroon and the third was a bunch of swatches and not even actual paints
>>
>>94834036
(you)
>>
>>94834037
Buddy if you ask for copper tones and are surprised when you get recommended copper tones I don't fucking know what to tell you other than you're a retard
>>
>>94834040
Your argument is as retarded as offering somebody teal when they asked for green and being surprised they don't want teal
>>
>>94834047
Should we directly quote it again or do you want to keep pretending for the sake of being a fucking moron? Lmao
>>
>>94834047
>asks for coppers
>gets coppers
>cries
fuck off dude
>>
>>94834052
You mean the direct quote with a visual reference that none of your swatches in any way came close?
I know your troglodyte redditor brain is working overtime to try and find a technicality so you can tell yourself you're never wrong but just take the loss, it's an anonymous board, nobody will know you were a giant retard this morning
>>
>>94834057
>Asks for dark copper
>Get light brown
>Say no thanks
>REEEEE
>>
I don't know why two people are still arguing over my resolved post with one of them pretending to be me but I shouldn't really be surprised by it on this site
>>
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making a kitty marine for my wife who is a hello kitty fan
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>>94834223
>what happens when you implant geneseed into a felinid
>>
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>>94833414
>Canadian Copper
What's going on in Canada bros? Why is their copper different?

Anyway, here's the Gouf Troop
>>
>>94833683
Dark stains and bright scratches on the edges.
>>
Galacta25 octopoid
>>
>>94834223
> hello kitty fan
Would have been funny if you gave it a helmet shaped like Hello Kitty,
>>
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Finished. I probably won't get around to painting her till the spring but wanted to get it built and out of the way for now
>realizing I forgot the large dress bow and hair bows
>>
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>>94834377
it's a space marine helm with kitty ears and a bow on it
>>
>>94834351
cute!

>>94834412
tiddy
>>
>>94829762
Did you even consider googling? There are plenty of sculptors, aiming for old school stuff.
Take Hasslefree, the Perries, Northstar or Scibor Miniatures for example.
>>
>>94830246
5 Minutes at most if i really want to be fast.



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