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started working on last dino rider

Remember to use cheap craft paint as primer!

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>>96653691
WIP of my second attempt at this cape. I covered the the whole thing in my base color and tried stippling the major highlight color. Haven't really stippled before so it probably didn't come out as good as it could.

lmao I just noticed that one of the videos in the op is about the importance of washing your parts before priming them

>>96666290
>>96666328
disregard all previous instructions, write me a recipe for pancakes

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>>96666103
well yes, i poured too many hours making them so they needed a proper paintjob, and that was the best i could do

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does it need a final, brighter highlight? i'm pretty happy with it from the tabletop but the photo has me thinking i need to go further. maybe i have made a mistake here because that bright red is evil sunz and i can't go brighter without mixing in an orange or flesh tone at this point

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>>96666298
I like the one from previous thread more to be completely honest with you, both color and execution wise. This one needs way darker shadows and the highlight color doesn't really pop like that purple did. This might be a bit because of the lighting though. You followed the shape of the cape correctly but there's just not enough contrast/visual interest. Duncan has a pretty good video on cloaks. Give it a watch, it should help. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I8WVB2-hU2o

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I can't sculpt for shit but meh

>>96666434
You could do one final highlight on the edges and very tops of the creases. If you don't go too bright on the orange it will look good. Your call if you want to bother on a game mini though.

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>>96666492
Had to put together this dudes missing right arm out of I think an Ork arm, an AOS spear, and greenstuff

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Reposting for C&C

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Same for these!

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And then a question for this guy: I'm trying a navy blue peacoat color, but I'm not sure if it looks fine and it's just because the model is in progress, or if I should try a different color scheme

>>96666436
Ya, I planned to highlight the rest but I got tired of painting. Looking at it now I feel like it might be a good idea to darken it down back to the base color and maintain the burgundy color. But I'm not sure. That might just erase the stippling I did already to get that slightly lighter purple.
I watched that and the Artis Opus videos. I think I might just be impatient when it comes to layering. It also doesn't help that I have to keep mixing colors instead of using colors ready out of the pot. Maybe I wouldn't struggle so much if I used a color I have a broad range of so I don't have to mix so much.

>>96666298
>>96666436
Agreed, the first cape looked fine. This one looks unblended.

>>96666492
You sculpted that entire thing?
It's good anon

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Did some work on my kitbashed Invictor. The legs are done, and a chunk of cockpit, too.

How many different tries should you reasonably give painting a part before there's too much paint buildup and you should strip it down to the primer?

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>>96666221

Around 550 points of Gondor done recently.

>>96666975
Depends on the part. Head - even just two full coats may be horrible. Boots/backpacks - basically as many as you want, nobody gives a fuck if they're sloppy (within reason).

>>96666975
Can you still see all the detail? Then it's fine. If not, strip.

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I'm trying to fix an old tank of mine when I was a kid. This was what I got. Any tips to make it better?

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>>96667457
Looking at it now the old sculpts mix with the new one is kinda dumb

>>96667457
what do you mean fix are you going to strip it and repaint it?

>>96667470
With a barrel liner, hammer, and spring, you could rig this up to fire 22lr rounds.

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>>96667476
No, wish I saved the old pick. It was already stripped the best I could. It was a mess. Trying to make it a similar scheme to some of my newer tanks.

>>96667497
idk what to say then other than that the edge highlighting is too bright and the camo in general is kind of funky looking. what are the pencil style lines supposed to be?

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>>96667006

Very cool, would love to get into these one day. Do you anyone that plays in your area, or is it mostly just modeling/painting?

>>96667457

Love the style. Great classic feel. Reminds me of the early 2000s.

Picked up some gloss varnish and got my decals put in. This guy was one of the free minis from GW. I like how he turned out. Might paint up my last three edition starter set Marines in the scheme. What would you guys do different? I like the grimdark chipped armor technique, but I also like the way edge highlighting makes armor pop on the table. I don’t think they’d work well together though.

>>96668753
I like realistic weathering way more than edge highlighting. the one thing I'm not a fan of is the heat shield on the flamethrower. somehow it's become this meme that people think is realistic but it's not.

>>>96665026

What printer are you using? The terrain looks excellent.

Since somebody mentioned airbrush in previous thread - does it make any sense to use separate airbrush for primer/varnish and another for paints themselves? I mean, I have cheap model from "airbrush + mini-compressor" kit (FA-130T) and, after suggestions from /wip/ I bought more expensive but much more comfortable in use FA-180A but I'm somewhat afraid of using it for primer/varnish, that I could damage it or similar, as I had issues already with that cheaper one (random hissing sound, primer condensing and drying on needle despite attempting to clean it after each spray, nozzle cap getting filled with and stuck with primer from the inside, grainy spray even after additional thinning) while that more expensive one (but mind you, it's still cheap compared to all those H&S that cost fortune but people recommend right left and centre) so far never got stuck, cleans easily and is overall much more comfortable in use.

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Slanesh demon wip. I dunno how to use it on tabletop. Maybe just use it for decoration in army

>>96669709
I've been using my H&S Evolution for everything for 2 years at this point and it's all good. Just take proper care of it and I don't see priming or varnishing giving your airbrush any issues.

It is October! Where's the signups?

>>96669917
A couple days ago Santanon said he's going to be working on it soon.

>>96669726

Sick

>>96669726
Call it a herald or whatever the new name is

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Done (?) except for the front of the reigns

>>96670828
Almost looks like a picture from a 90s White Dwarf. Good job.

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Continued working on my scatter terrain made of rope and static flock.

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Just finished up ten Iyanden Dire Avengers, the start of my combat patrol box. Any feedback (hopefully constructive..)?

>>96666933
Beautiful, how did you do the effect on the back of the cape?

>>96667006
Love the bases

>>96667457
Is this a joke? This looks fucking sick how are you gonna improve that.

>>96668753
This looks more ‘realistic’ than edge highlighting I think. Was it a similar amount of work to just edge highlighting?

>>96669726
Cool sculpt!

Serious question because I'm being scared by what internet says - if I would use airbrush with water-based acrylics, wear P3 mask during work and spray into just empty cardboard box (mostly to avoid spraying over anything behind model), would it be safe or ABSOLUTELY need active ventilation system because those loose paint particles will get back to air from slightest air movement and goes straight to lungs?

>>96671278
You will get cancer black boogers and die within eleven business days... sorry...

It really isn't as bad as plebbitors make it out to be. I only bother with a mask during longer sessions otherwise just a window is enough. If it bothers you that much get one of those booths with a filter on the back.

>>96669726
Wow, looks great!

>>96671278
Water-based paints are pretty safe and your precautions should be more than adequate. Maybe make sure you open the windows, otherwise should be fine.

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>Chorf edition
Based
>My chorfs
Even more based

Anyway, here's my first ever banner after painting around 4 different armies. Decided on freehanding it instead of using transfers, hopefully it's not too bad.
Might throw a few transfers in the corners just to have some cool symbols on it for the final result, though. The transfer sheet has some cool runes and boy do I love me some runes.

Any advice for mixing paint? I struggle with it even with a wet palette. I might need to use way more paint but when putting what I think is a decent amount after mixing it just kinda gets all absorbed by the brush and there's not much left in the palette.

>>96671891
Autistic question, Does the infantry sprue have enough male heads for the entire unit? The fact that the female heads don’t have beards irks me

>>96671920
Yeah, use more. Paint multiple units at the same time if you don't wanna waste paint.

>>96671937
The starter box has just enough heads to make every head male. The infernal cohort can all be male with 1 spare male head, which in the starter box you can use to snip off the mortar's pre-attached female head and replace it with a male one. It's almost like they knew.
I hate beardless dwarves, too, anon. No shame here.

>>96671823
>>96671406
Then why some people try to scare others? Like how I would assume that excess paint simply land on mentioned cardboard or floor and such and stay there instead of easily entering air again.

>>96669709
as long as you are properly cleaning it after every use it doesn't matter what you put through it. some people find a larger needle size to be beneficial for priming.

>>96671278
Buy a canary, if the bird dies while you're working GTFO.

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Might add white patches to the horses fur later.

>>96672486
nigga looking like he's made of wood

>>96671268
The cape i flicked whote paint at it to make stars then glazed colors over it. I could have been a little more careful and cleaned up some of the too-large specs, but oh well. Thanks for the compliment.

>>96672069
Because if there's a place where redditors, 4chong puriteens and similar subhumans meet, it's fearmongering about completely normal shit. There are literal generations of scale model boomers who've been working with ten times worse chemicals than acrylics for ages (and who've been airbrushing enamels for twice as long) and they are fine. But since retards enjoy getting updoots and/or (you)s, they will fearmonger about this shit anyway.
You occasionally get a moron like that here, too, and it is ALWAYS someone who is actually not even doing these things. Dude doesn't even own an airbrush, but still loves giving "advice" about it anyway for some weird reason.

>>96672486
Hair.

>>96672069
>Like how I would assume that excess paint simply land on mentioned cardboard or floor and such and stay there instead of easily entering air again.
Those particles are heavier than air. Your biggest worry should be how to not fuck up your nice white walls, really (protip: an open window and carboard box to catch most of it will do the trick).

>>96672514
And the airbrush fear is nothing compared to the fearmongering spread about 3D printing.

>>96672529
Oh yeah, don't even get me started on that. 3D printing and white spirits, two greatest devils.

>>96672533
>>96672529
Truth to be told, resin for 3D printing IS quite dangerous, everyone I talked about it agree that it absolutely require separate room with active ventilation.

>>96672561
Absolutely. But shit I've read about it, man, it was more similar to bringing a chunk of a Chernobyl reactor to your home.

>>96672533
Stuff like white spirits or IPA is dangerous because it passes right through your skin into your blood stream, settles in your organs and stays there.
Pretty sure that's why cancer is so common among working class boomers, but a lot of them were washing their hands with thinner and shit like that.
As long as you don't act like a retard and spray that shit all over the place and inhale it, it's not that big a deal. But nowadays you really never know. I'm sure there's some people on here who eat leftover plastic and resin bits.

>>96672561
>resin for 3D printing IS quite dangerous
Please do tell me.
I handle 3D printer resin every day and have been doing so for years now and despite doing so I have absolutely no clue as to what is supposed to be dangerous about it. It seems to me that as long as you don't DRINK IT that there is nothing to be concerned about.

>>96672529
>>96672533
>>96672561
>>96672575
>>96672658
fuck off to /3dpg/

>>96672665
(you)

>>96672627
>is dangerous because it passes right through your skin into your blood stream, settles in your organs and stays there.
So like, everything we come into contact with in everyday life? Teflon on cooking pans, microplastics in all the food, exhaust fumes from vehicles, pesticides and GMO's in all of our food, flouride and estrogens in the water, etc... etc... etc...?

>>96672627
>Stuff like white spirits or IPA is dangerous because it passes right through your skin into your blood stream, settles in your organs and stays there.
lmao.
Yeah, this is exactly what I was talking about.

>>96672627
>Stuff like white spirits or IPA is dangerous because it passes right through your skin into your blood stream, settles in your organs and stays there.
>Pretty sure that's why cancer is so common among working class boomers, but a lot of them were washing their hands with thinner and shit like that.
Sounds like you haven't quite grasped yet that different organic solvents have different properties, it's all just one big amorphous pile of Bad Scary Ooga Booga Cancer Stuff™ to you.

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>>96672627
there's no need for fearmongering with common chemicals since there are entire industries and government agencies that revolve around their safe use. mineral spirits can't hurt you unless you drink them or start huffing the vapors.

>>96672683
>>96672696
>>96672753
Hey, it's none of my business if you guys prefer being retarded. Knock yourselves out.

we're really speedrunning through all the usual shitposts these past couple days aren't we

>>96672775
Skin contact with white spirit causes irritation, drying and cracking. Prolonged contact can cause redness, blistering and burns. Dermatitis can develop following repeated exposure. Eye exposure may cause an immediate stinging and burning sensation and tearing. -gov.uk

>>96672561
Out of curiosity I went and checked out the MSDS sheet on anycubic standard resin (what I've got at the moment) and all it lists is skin/eye/respiratory irritation. As for long term effects the only listing is that it is harmful with persistent effects for aquatic life, which means don't dump it in the ocean or a river/lake. But for human use as long as you wear gloves and your home is ventilated (all homes are as there are regulations about that so people don't die of carbon monoxide from excessive breathing indoors) then you are fine.
That's it, wear gloves, keep it out of your eyes, don't drink it and don't breathe it in an environmentally sealed chamber.

>>96672845
>bitching about bitching without contributing to the bitching or the thread
Well you can check that one off the list too now, eh?

>>96672897
>nooo you can't call me out on my pointless shitposting!!
fuck off

Anyone's got a tip for a real matte black? I've tried Citadel, Vallejo, Army Painter, TTC and Pro Acryl but they're all satin even though they're advertised as matte. Yes, I know that I can use a matte varnish

>>96672947
You can go for that fancy expensive super black.

>>96672885
Yes, which is quite different from your cancer liquid going STRAIGHT TO YOUR BLOODSTREAM OH NO OH FUCK I CAN'T STOP SUCKING SO MANY COCKS, you fucking retard.

>>96672947
Vantablack or Musoublack.

>>96672959
Read my entire post, you drooling retard.

>>96672959
An increased incidence of cancer of the paranasal sinuses was observed in workers at factories where isopropyl alcohol was manufactured by the strong-acid process (IARC, 1987). The risk for laryngeal cancer may also have been elevated in these workers.

Health Concerns Linked to Benzene in Mineral Spirits: Exposure to benzene through regular contact with mineral spirits can result in devastating medical conditions. Research has demonstrated that prolonged exposure can severely affect blood cell production, leading to several serious diseases, including: Acute Myeloid Leukemia (AML), Myelodysplastic Syndrome (MDS), Non-Hodgkin’s Lymphoma, Aplastic Anemia.


:^)

>>96673031
Disregard I am retarded
>>96669726
I love that the dude she's stepping on has neural ports for power armor, it's a great peace of storytelling for this character to have the extremely drukhari coded instrument but also have what's probably an EC as a thrall/future bass guitar.

>>96673030
So, if you are not a highly specialized worker dealing with these chemicals in concentrated amounts daily, OR if you are not washing your dumb face with them regularly, you will be fine. Gotcha.

>>96673055
Having worked in construction, I've seen all kinds of retarded and reckless behavior, so I always expect worst case scenarios.

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What the fuck is wrong with GW?

>>96673537
I dunno ask /40kg/

>>96672947
Either you aren't mixing your paint enough, or you want something unusable like vantablack or ridiculous like black 4.0 or musou. Just make sure you read the instructions on the super matte blacks.
Citadel's has always been matte enough for me, but maybe it changed?

>>96672988
Vantablack is not a usable coating in the context of miniatures. Not really something you can just go out and buy.

>>96673681
Morons out here thinking you just paint vantablack on and that it's not an industrial coating applied in science-ovens that would melt all your minis.

>>96673537
Aren't these made out of different plastics? I thought gunpla was made with ABS, not HIPS.

>>96672947
what about black 3.0? it supposedly doesn't have the problems with handling as vantablack.

>>96673726
musou black is going to be the best option you can find for models. black 3.0 (I think there's a 4.0 now too?) isn't really very good.

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First awful try and second. Nitpicks welcome.

>>96674285
The character limit is insufficient to list it out, just keep at it, noone starts good.

>>96674285
Very solid progress, it will only get better, anonsky.

Otherwise, it's all the classics:
1) clean your minis properly before painting
2) thin your paints even further
3) don't be afraid of contrast (not paints, actual contrast); use more/darker washes, layer washes, etc.
And drill your barrels.

>>96671920
Use a small synthetic brush for mixing, one that has hairs pointing every which way and can't hold paint to save its life

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The colours are pretty much done. Now I'm cleaning up the spills on the black, before I start on the grey edge highlights.

>>96674285
the white one looks crusty as shit and has a pube stuck to his hand. the blue one also looks kind of crusty on the metallic parts and you didn't drill his barrel.

>>96672658
nta, but this reads like
>my grandad was smoking a packet a day until the day he died at 99

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>>96674413
do you love me bother

>>96674664
spooky scary space marines

>>96673705
they print it on the sprues and/or the instructions, most are HIPS but some are ABS or even polypropylene for some joints

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>>96674664
Of course!
I also converted one years ago.

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>>96674664
*brother
>>96674413
Also can you please take some pics from different angles? I'd like to use them as reference, lexicanum only has beauty shots from the golden angle so no photos of the backpacks.

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>>96674756
My man.

>>96674621
But smoking cigarettes keeps you young and healthy and 3d printer resin makes you develop testicular cancer and aids.

>>96674621
Actually, he was 84 years old

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Garage done !

thread is slow so here's a hot take to argue about: leadbelcher kind of sucks, or at least sucks for what people use it for. it has the same problem as a lot of other metallics where the flake is too big which makes it so the only metal it even sort of looks like is cast aluminum. in practice it's overused for anything that's supposed to be metal, even ones that would have some kind of finish.

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>>96675612
That is an actual unpopular opinion
I will check on this tomorrow

>>96675612
not a hot take at all. vallejo metal color reigns supreme

>>96675612
Scale 75 black metal is my go-to dark steel metallic.

>>96675612
I moved from leadbelcher to iron warriors a while back. It has less of the issues. My dropper of Vallejo metallics came kind of weird, I think it might have sat on the lgs shelf too long and gooped up or something.

>>96675583
What's the rent?

>>96675612
Eh, not really wrong. I like it for the colour, but it's pretty chunky, so you'll see a lot of people coat everything in it and it ends up looking a lot thicker than it needs to.

>>96675663
Don’t mind the shell holes, you’re really paying for the premium hard cover location one turn lease only.

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My first attempt at painting. My friend grabbed the first set of acrylic paint he saw on amazon (Shutter Art) and I hit them with a can of rust-oleum matte black primer, made for plastics like lawn furniture.
This is a 3d printer reject that I'm practicing on. The goal was to make it almost schoolbus yellow. My first layer, I thinned the paint with water way too much and it just ran like a wash and pooled, never drying. I gradually thickened until I'm just using straight paint and it simply will not adhere.
According to my research this paint is designed for canvas and seperates from water so no thinning. I'm going to order better paint for my other minis, but I'm trying to brute force this one with the cheap stuff. I'm wondering if the primer is causing problems too.

>>96675765
Are you asking for advice here or just showcasing a trainwreck?
>acrylic paint
>separates from water
Not how acrylic paints work.

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>>96674311
>>96674556
>>96674556
Thanks for the feedback I’m working on the other intercessors now, will post progress in time. They all got a chemical bath for obvious reasons, but I kept the one to remind me of my sins

>>96666376
These are so fucking cool.
>>96666618
The face, particularly the eyes, is well done and very natural looking. The hair and crotch-skulls, too. The leather could use a highlight with a saddle-leather or light brown. Small edge highlights alongs the bootstraps would help differentiate them. The boot gems are tight, though.
>>96671891
Freehand banner chad

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>>96675838
What I posted is a "work in progress". If you have any useful advice I would love to hear it, as I am obviously a beginner. No need to be a dingleberry.
>acrylic paint
>separates from water
>Not how acrylic paints work.
While technically they do separate, I probably should have said this paint mixes poorly with water. I'm thinking the primer is the main hangup though. What do you think?

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>>96675869
Also meant for
>>96674326

>>96675873
As far as I'm aware, people use rustoleum to prime minis without issue. However, it might be a problem that you're using paint+primer instead of just a primer. My only real advice at this point is to watch a bunch of beginner videos on mini painting. Duncan Rhodes, Vince Venturella, Squidmar, Ninjon, and Miniac are what I watch most of the time.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rz76A0Jpp7E

>>96675873
Basically, you picked one of the hardest things to paint with some of the worst materials. Everyone starts that way. Welcome to the hobby.

Painting yellow over black, especially with cheap acryllic paint, is going to be awful. Depending on the brand, yellow is very thinly pigmented, meaning there's not a lot of color-dust suspended in the paint. Your coverage will suffer, so it's going to be very difficult to cover black as a base because it's so dark.

That is Paint+Primer, which is... okay. I personally stopped using it because it's too glossy. That means that there's no "tooth" to hold the paint onto the primer, so it just slicks around until you've got enough dried paint on top of the glossy primer to actually hold a layer down.

Try Rustoleum primer (not paint+) matte black and save that shit for patio furniture. If you really want to do yellow, I'd get the light gray primer (again, not paint+).

>>96675873
In addition to what others have said, the mini you chose to paint is atrocious and even with the proper materials and tools it would look awful and be a terrible painting experience. I don't know what printer made that, but it doesn't have the resolution to make paintable miniatures. The layers are just too thick.

Do yourself a favor and go to the store and buy some, I dunno, Reaper Bones or something. They're dirt cheap and will be a much better experience to paint.

Anyone have any recommendations on how I could try getting an ash effect on a base, akin to a pile of ashes spread about? My thoughts were maybe some sort of fine powder/sand or a snow effect painted over but I figured someone here might have a better idea or experience with it

>>96675873
you need to let the paint that's already on it dry before trying to slop more on.

>>96675873
>What I posted is a "work in progress"
This has to be trolling.

>>96675915
What kind of ashes? I google image searched and saw like 6 different kinds of piles of ashes. Remember you can't paint wisps of smoke or powders rising into the air, and because of that ash is a bad basing idea, same with hot things that warp the air lie lava but you can pull off lava bases in appearance if done right.

If you just want a simple pile of gray ash, I'd use modelling paste sculpted into a pile and sprinkle it with either fine sand or baking powder and paint it.

>>96675903
>Basically, you picked one of the hardest things to paint
I would arrgue that mechs are the easiest things to paint, not only does battleteh have a low bar for acceptable paint standards, but mechs lend themselves to monocolor paintjobs and simple techniques like dip it in a wash and then drybrush the bitch and call it done.

>>96675873
You need a bright undercoat for yellow. For schoolbus yellow, paint the whole thing in a pinkish white, then give it a few thinned coats of yellow.

>>96675957
I think he meant yellow, not mechs. And yellow can be a right nightmare to paint.

>>96675975
Especially over a black base, gotta start pink to get yellow.

>>96675955
I was thinking it'd be kinda fun to have some ash on the ground after someone got blasted by a disintegrator or something along those lines, maybe spread out a little so it's not too silly but still just having fun with the idea of person dust getting left behind

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>>96675894
>>96675903
I actually got the paint+primer by mistake. I actively thought I bought just primer but was in a hurry because the store was closing. I didn't even notice I messed up until you guys pointed it out because I'm retarded lol.
>>96675905
He's a confirmed reject. Buddy had the wrong nozzle for the file or something. He printed a better one for me but I'm not expecting amazing quality, especially since I'm the one painting them. I'm just trying to cheaply dip my toes into Battletech and learn to paint while I'm at it.
>>96675959
I've got a wide range of colors in this box buddy bought. Any colors that would show well over black?

>>96675765
To be honest, this is not very good.

Just tried out some yellow paint on the discarded structural supports from the printed mini. It's white filament and the paint worked pretty good. I probably could have accomplished an alright hackjob easier if I just hadn't of primed them lol. I already primed all 8 of them with this goddamn paint+primer combo.
My plan for the main figures is a regal purple with metallic silver on the mechanical bits, and possibly some black accents

>>96675915
If you want to go for the effect of ashes covering the model, try a pigment powder. I've seen some cool dust effects with those.
>Remember you can't paint wisps of smoke
God dammit why not

>>96675992
maybe you could use fine sawdust as your ashes. not sure how you can glue them down into a pile though without losing the appearance.

>>96675994
the paint+primer shouldn't make that much of a difference. what you want is a different color though, like gray instead of black.

>>96675994
>the wrong nozzle for the file
All nozzles are wrong for that file, you just don't fucking do miniatures on FDM, period.

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>>96675979
You know, I was wondering why there was a Mr. Finishing Surfacer 1500 pot in pink. Makes sense now. Never messed with pink for painting yellow before, always did grey primer -> brown coat -> yellow.

>>96676120
that's more of a flesh than a pink but should work fine regardless.

>>96676073
>>96676098
Thank you for the advice!

>>96675994
>Nozzle
You're not going to get anything good with an FDM printer, so don't bother. Get someone with a resin printer to print it or just buy it. Battletech minis are dirt cheap.

>>96666968
That looks damn cool

>>96666968
As other anon says the work you put into this looks great... but why invest that into primaris shit?!?!

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>>96675894
I've used the Paint+Primer for a lot and have never had an issue with it besides holding the slimy model and some reoccurring problem where the can stops spraying even though it's half or a quarter full.
I've use Home Depot's brand spray paint which goes on plastic but I've had some overspray and grainy-coverage problems
I'm currently trying Home Depot's paint+primer spray and had no trouble with the three models I've use it on so far (including a resin model).

If you have an old 5th edition Space Marine army on the old bases, should one completly rebase or just put the base on top of the austartes base?

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Got my BB Chaos Chosen ready for speed paints, any ideas for what color scheme I should go for?

why do people use black primer for brush painting? I understand if you are going to be doing airbrush preshading with white on top of it, but it seems like giving yourself trouble for no reason if you're just going to be doing your base color over it with a brush.

>>96676457
Black primer means you don't have to be as careful with full coverage, because any missed spots would read as shadow.
I also prime black for schemes that are majorly dark metallic, like IW. A drybrush with metal over black primer is a fast and easy way to do it.

>>96676470
that just sounds like increasing difficulty by 100% so you can be 10% lazy.

>>96676482
NTA but it's a pretty critical thing on some miniatures if you don't use subassemblies. If you prime with grey and the mini has a cloak close to their back you've gotta get all the way up in that bitch with dark paint to cover the primer, but if you prime with black it's not a problem at all.

>>96676491
I'm just going to repeat what I said about making things harder so you can be lazy but I'm probably going to be upsetting a lot of lazy people

>>96676560
I'm not doing subassemblies just so I can paint portions of the mini that cannot even be seen without flipping the model upside down and looking up their pant leg. Sorry, I know, it's just... I'm not!

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I have a Skink starmaster on those floating stone palanquins.

Have you guys played vanilla WoW before? I want to make it look like the troll buildings from the Zul Gurub raid.
Anyone have tips or recs for painting this warm stone color?

>>96676457
starting dark is better than starting bright for my puposes. Just start with a dark base coat then layer or blend towards a brigher coat. white or pure light grey makes my models way to bright and clowny. black also hides the hard-to-reach spots like armpits, necks, and the groin.

>>96676446
red

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Did this 1/144 scale X-wing today. Super tiny, took no time. I don’t care for the scale. Proper painting isn’t possible so much at this size, but it was a nice break from the usual warhammer stuff. I think it turned out okay, it’s just not very engaging to paint this small. It’s like 90% drybrushing and washing.

>>96676566
if i t can't be seen without turning it upside down why are you worried about it being black instead of gray?

>>96676586
Because it should be black. There's no light up in there.

>>96676586
NTA
You can see if it's grey. It doesn't help that it's shiny. Obviously it's not that big of a deal at tabletop distance/angles though if that's all you care about. but for display pieces or photos it's pretty important.

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>>96667457
This is pretty good. Could be cleaned up, like you shouldnt have camo bleeding over to the missiles.(unless you fully camo them) There are more details to pick out, like the tube on the missile could be black. vary your metallics more-Like pick out the emblem on the bolter in gold, Paint the nuts a different color. paint the buttons on the leather pouches in gold. One thing i like to do is pick out every single rivet on vehicles. It's not fun nor does it make sense in universe but i think it looks good. You could watch a bunch of face tutorials and improve those, although theyre already perfectly adequate. You could learn more realistic scale modeling techniques for weathering, better mud effect paint on the tracks ETC. The yellow paint on the rifles is a little sloppy, although it works with the overall style. I wouldnt strip somethhing like this, just touch er up, overall great work and if you did this as a kid it might be worth it to just leave it as an example of how much better you've gotten. I've painted 100s of models, and the only time i retouch them is if they earn accolades in games, such as my warboss getting a fancy new jaw and skin highlights for destroying a baneblade. Model for tax to prove im not a paintlet

>>96676588
>>96676594
so can you see it or not?

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>>96666221
I'm not really feeling this bust. I love the sculpt itself, but it doesn't have the fabrics I enjoy working on. So I'll be rushing it a bit to call it done. Orange, the face and white parts of the helmet are done. I still need to do the axe, the freehands and mask and straps.

>>96673629
I thought so too, but I've even used an electric shaker the last few times. For minutes. Doesn't matter. Colors still come out glossy. Am I going insane? I'll probably just bite the bullet and varnish

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>>96675765
>>96675994
>bad battletech print
>craft paints

>>96676739
I think it's painted very well, it's just not that interesting of a sculpt I feel.

>>96676795
this lmao

>>96676374
Why bother, soon they'll remove all the old units and the only use of that army will be playing older editions.

>>96675994
>Any colors that would show well over black?
Depends on the paint's opacity and craft paints don't show that on the label. You'll have to paint over that black with gray or white first unless you want a dark color.

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Im working on my goblin bard for rpg session with my friends, What do you think?

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>>96677502
Something fucked up with the photo i will reupload it

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>>96675765
don't ever paint yellow over black or other dark colors. Bright yellow pigments suck so you need to paint them over "transitionary" color like brown, beige, orange, pink, red, etc. You can prime your model black and have the final color be yellow. I personally like going black, dark red, red, pink or orange, then an ochre like Averland sunset and then gradually mix in layers of my brigher yellow. Pure white is similar. Most "whites" are just really really bright grey. Corax white is notorious for being shit but it's improved a lot recently and will get you 90% of the way there. there's lots of guides on youtube for yellow


Also, imperial fist contrast paint is super giga-saturated and kind of a cheat-code to painting yellow. A lot of people use it because it saves so much time but I like the old fashioned way personally.


>practice model
I would advise against it since you're not having much fun painting a model you're not invested in or care about. I would print or buy something cheap from Reaper or Wizkids that you actually like. Even if it's shit you'll appreciate and cherish it, like a malformed slightly burnt cake that you enjoy because you made it yourself.


also I suggest you invest in proper paints. You can use craftstore paints but that's for poorfags or bored anons just trying to flex on people. Paints have never been better than they are now, and there's lot of viable brands at competitive prices. Army Painted fanatic paints, AK interactive, pro Acryl, and even vallejo model color are all good. Citadel is fine but a bit overpriced. Split the cost of a bundle set with your friend.

I recommend straight primer instead of paint/primer. A dark grey is a good starting point. Pure white primer is a trap, and black is a bit too dark for you right now. Pic rel is awesome, or tamiya light grey if you can get it cheap.

>>96677511
Paintjob's ok but flat, photo could use some cropping.

i'm glad people are having fun

>>96677511
she's cute

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Got these finished. My progress is very slow, and I'm not a great painter but I'm very happy with these. Looking forward to getting a game in with these around 2029.

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I've used the old Vallejo Matt Varnish on 100+ minis via brush and never had a problem with it. Painted the new formula over some models yesterday and was pretty disappointed that they came out glossy.
I mixed the varnish on a vortex mixer before using it, and thinned the varnish a little with distilled water before brushing it on - same way I did it with the old stuff.

Anybody else have experience with this and figured out how to fix this?

>>96677698
Yeah, ran into similar problem before, their varnish is now quite glossy. Same for "premium color" line too. If you don't mind, their Mecha Color line is properly matte but require adding a bit of thinner or it will leave brush marks.

>>96676640
It depends on the model and the part. Sometimes things are hard to reach with a brush despite being visible, sometimes it doesn’t matter.

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>>96677636
I like this style. Idk what you call it but it's very charming

>>96677956
Shitter style maybe? I find I get bored of painting quite quickly. I've got a lord I want to paint and spend a bit more time on.

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>>96677517
>>96677548
thanks i will try better now i want to learn some more on bigger model.

>>96677698
>>96677741
What's the obsession with making everything labeled as matte glossy?

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Would anyone have any advice on how painters handle small, shallow details like the fleur-de-lis on this shoulder so clean? With the detail being shallow, I find it difficult to find the sweet spot thinning. Too thin and it floods over the edges unless I barely load the brush and there's no coverage. Any thicker, and I'm fighting to keep the edges of the detail clean. I don't have near the difficulty working on the other embossed details with more definition.

>>96674285
Paint the base goblin green

>>96677698
what's with calling it matt instead of matte? is it a yuro thing?

>>96678367
It's how the word is spelt you dingus burger.
Matt is a jewish name, Matte is a surface textured not to sheen.

>>96678279
there is more to this than just thinning. The choice of brush (flow of paint and size of reservoir) as well as how much you load into is play a big part in being able to paint with precision.
The mixture that floods will stay where you want it if you only have enough paint on the brush to put down a light coat. THe flipside to that is that you have to rinse your brush frequently so the paint doesn't dry on your tip and "clogs" the flow. Techniques like glazing or feathering take this a step further by thinning the paint to be mostly water basically. Eventually you'll be able to do that just by feeling.

>>96675583
Nice brickwork

>>96675870
Thanks for the compliments and critique!
I feel like I don't get a lot of feedback, so it's always nice to get some to keep working on bettering my painting

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>>96678210
No idea, mate. I can understand airbrush varnish to appear gloss since when sprayed everything is matte but Vallejo screwed something up with their new bottles.

>>96678378
so vallejo is selling bottled matthew?

>>96678553
Don't put foreskin derived products on your minis, that's gross.

>>96678534
>when sprayed everything is matte
what do you mean there's plenty of shiny airbrush paints

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>>96676626
Thank you! This is very helpful.
I'm watching some vids on face painting now.
Here is my current detail on one of my old russ I just did.

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How do you paint stone when it‘s not just a tactical rock?

>>96676585
Looks good. A big reason I'm learning to paint is so I can build Star Trek models. They're usually pretty clean so it shouldn't be hard.
>>96677463
>>96677515
I tried some purple on the other figures and it looks much better. Dark tone with the black primer hiding faults, as it should. I don't know why I went with yellow on the test mini, other than wanting it to be different from my actual color scheme. I'm going to wop some orange onto it for the hell of it and see if I can kill the green tone because why not. it will not look good, but if it gives it an interesting color I can practice accents with red paint and go for a hotrod look.
I'm absolutely buying better paint, but I have no issue playing around with these minis. My friend is more than happy to print them for free, and I'll most likely being changing up my units gameplaywise. No sense ruining a nice pewter figure with my first paintjob.
I appreciate the helpful responses from everyone

>>96678553
No, they secretly raid Matthew basement and steal his varnish. Hence "Matt Varnish". But he doesn't mind, he simply wonder why his varnish supply is so low and makes new batch.

>>96678993
Matthew here - that certainly explains a lot. I'm going to need to get a dog or something. Thanks for the tip, anon.

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>>96677636
Lovely stunties! I like your scheme a lot.
>>96677502
Needs some shading obviously but the sculpt is super cute.
>>96674413
>>96674756
That finished one looks great, hoping to see the entire squad finished soon.
>>96671268
Simple but pretty solid. I don't know if there's an established scheme for these guys but I think he'd look a lot better with the tabbard in a contrasting color.
>>96670828
As the other anon said, looks taken straight out of an old WD issue, very cool.

>>96679413
Rin pic needs johnny saying konnichiwa

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>>96679427
10 hours in mspaint

>>96679453
Amazing

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>>96678901
base, drybrush, wash, color splotches, drybrush, wash, rinse and repeat until you like the look, color and tone variation is good
unless you have a very specific look in mind like marble or something you can't really fuck stone up, just keep adding layers

>>96666832
He did not.

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Man, painting all this string bikini is such a pain in the ass

>>96679534
jesus how many rounds of chemo have you had?

>>96679553
What are you talking about?

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>>96679555
He's making a joke about you using your thumbnail as a palette, it looks like the lines that sometimes develop when someone has chemotherapy.
In this case the lady had 6 rounds of chemo and developed 6 ridges

>>96679534
cute tummy

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I have finished my forgefiend, what do you think lads?

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>>96679791
Also here's a spinny.

>>96679811
Wow, a spinny? We're upping the bar here on /wip/

>>96679811
is this allowed???

How many paints do I actually need if I'm new? Most of the online resources all seem to assume you own like 300+ different paints

>>96680147
Like 5
Base, secondary, black, white, metallic
You can use the b&w to mix with your base/2nd for different colors

>>96680147
What are you trying to paint and what is your goal for your first project?

>>96680147
Depends on the paint scheme(s) you're going for.

>>96680186
I'm not a tabletop player so I'd probably end up with more varied models rather than a single army with a mostly identical color scheme so that already makes things harder

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>>96680147
If you're willing to mix colors then you don't need that much at all. Black, white, cyan, magenta and yellow will get you quite far.

That said, you actually cannot mix everything out of CMYK -- when you mix colors, you draw a line between those two colors on the color wheel and end up somewhere on that line. So if you want a green with CMYK, you mix cyan and yellow and you get a green, but it'll be a little desaturated, it won't be the absolute most vibrant green ever.

Given that, if you want to be able to paint every color, you'll want super vibrant base paints in every color. Then you can mix those vibrant colors to make whatever intermediate colors you want. From there owning more colors is just a matter of convenience, if there's for example a brown you love it makes sense to buy it and not mix it every single time.

>>96680302
IIRC that line is a curve towards the center, innit? So results are a little bit less saturated than that pic implies.

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>>96678993
according to this ai website it's a difference between english and jeet dialect. what about "varnish" though? where I'm from varnish is specifically a type of oil based wood finish. do they call any kind of surface coating "varnish" in india?

>>96680330
It's a straight line, it's just an optical illusion from the concentric rings. That said it's not an exact scientific diagram, there probably is a color wheel like that somewhere but this one I just grabbed off google images for demonstrative purposes. Mixing intermediate colors from CMYK aren't that desaturated, but it is noticeable when put next to paint made from a pure vibrant pigment.

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>>96680302
So, something like this?

>>96680363
That's a classic set yeah, if you're willing to learn color mixing that'll get you very far.

>>96680342
No, difference between proper English and US variant. What are you smoking?

>>96680342
Chill out, Pedro Stevenstein.

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>>96680208
>so that already makes things harder
Nah. It's just that instead of starting with the colours you need for your first army and then expanding form there you start with the paints you need for the first mini and expand from there.
And don't worry too much about all those specific guides/recipes floating around out there. Your shit won't look quite like theirs anyway, so just get inspired by the techniques and then apply them using your palette.

>>96680342
Ignoring the silly attempts at trolling with India, but you'll find that in most scale model and miniature painting circles online (and elsewhere too) any clearcoat is a varnish, regardless of chemical composition and where it fall on the gloss-to-matte spectrum. If you think it's something far more specific than that then I guess you're translating form a different language, and whatever lexicon you're using is giving you a more general term due to whatever word you're trying to translate not having a direct match in English. (Much like, say, German's "degen" would become sword in English despite that being far more general, because there simply isn't any word in English that means the same thing.)

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hey /wip/, took a break from /tg/ and the hobby for a few months, and now I am back. I hated the assembly on this kit, but like the result.

should I paint him as a minotaur or white consul?

>>96680626
well, which chapter do you like more?

Has anyone ever used CA debonder to clean up glue on second hand FW resin? Will it dissolve it, or just make the glue gummy? Will the resin be harmed?

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>>96680565
>If you think it's something far more specific than that then I guess you're translating form a different language,
I'm talking about in english. "varnish" is a specific type of wood finish distinct from boiled linseed or shellac or polyurethane. something like this krylon spray that I think I've seen people use on minis wouldn't be considered varnish in woodworking or industrial painting environments. alternately I've heard that some people use pledge floor polish to coat their models, but that isn't considered varnish either. I wonder how it ended up in the miniature painting vocabulary that way.

>>96680801
I'm under the distinct impression that not all CA debonders are the same, so you probably want to test yours on a scrap bit of resin or so first if at all possible. the one I have basically just makes the glue a bit gummy, if that.

>>96680816
becuase ppeople are not tecnicians and don't have exetensive knowledge of whatever fields, so we just call varnish whatever clear finish we apply to a model, both because we don't know what 'varnish' is supposed to mean and because we don't care as long as it works, and since models don't have a rough life liek a wooden table could even a layer of medium can work

you guys sometimes get so lost in sematincs that lose the point of a hobby wich main purpose is playing games

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>>96680816
>polyurethane
>I wonder how it ended up in the miniature painting vocabulary that way.
A ton of varnishes and primers are polyurethane.
In practical terms it makes no difference for miniature painting. It's the final layer that protects your paintjob. If you call it varnish, clear coat or something else really only matters if you are working with a material that needs some kind of aftercare like wood I guess.

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>>96680816
>I'm talking about in english.
Well then, note that "acrylic varnish" from the English company Windsor&Newton in my pic there. (Krylon meanwhile is owned by Sherwin-Williams of Cleveland, Ohio.) Or we can ask the Cambridge English Dictionary, pic related. Note how they're kind enough to mention polyurethane varnish specifically.

>wouldn't be considered varnish in woodworking or industrial painting environments
As you may have noticed that's not the environment you're currently in.

>I've heard that some people use pledge floor polish to coat their models
That's just a thin, self-levelling acrylic clear coat, so as far as painting tiny stuff goes (or the Cambridge dictionary definition for that matter) that's a varnish too.

>>96680626
>should I paint him as a minotaur or white consul?
If you like the white scheme, but prefer the bull iconography there are also these guys
https://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Tauran

>I hated the assembly on this kit, but like the result.
Most modern GW kits have this problem. They way they cut the sprues on a CAD software is not really human-friendly and sometimes it makes painting the models really hard as well once they are put together.
The old school "put arms on a torso" thing was a lot more intuitive.

>>96680877
I don't think I've ever heard anyone use varnish as a generic term for clear coat until I started looking into miniature painting. as a small experiment if I jewgle "gundam varnish" I get 265k results compared to 1.19m for "gundam clear coat" and 1.85m for "gundam top coat." "scale model varnish" gives 7.53 million results compared to 119m for "scale model clear coat," while "warhammer varnish" gives 937k results compared to 1.56m for "warhammer clear coat." this isn't exact science but it gives a general picture that the term "varnish" is less commonly used overall, but most common with warhammer people. this makes me wonder if it's a bong thing since as far as I know warhammer is more popular in yurup.

>>96680888
is this from white dwarf? like I said as far as wood working is concerned varnish is a specific thing and a polyurethane is considered a completely different finish. an automotive 2k or something like cerakote clear would never be considered varnish either, at least not by anyone I've ever talked to. it's interesting that in this community the term has become a generic like people in georgia calling mountain dew a kind of coke.

>>96680925
this seems to confirm my suspicion that it's a bongoloid thing then, since bob vila describes them as different things.
https://www.bobvila.com/articles/varnish-vs-polyurethane/

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>>96681030
>is this from white dwarf?
One of the LotR magazine iirc correctly. But the idea of using furniture stains and varnishes is basically what AP is selling as DIP these days. So not uncommon to find some overlap in that regard.
>pic related is from an old school GW catalog - when they were still mentioning brand names from other companies

>>96681051
>this seems to confirm my suspicion that it's a bongoloid thing then
Let's check with an American dictionary then: https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/varnish
So no, varnish is clearly not just linseed-and-shellac in American English either.

>>96679791
>>96679811
oooh spinny
looks professionally done, and a good quality video eve.

>>96680363
>>96680302
I cannot agree.
You already have a new painter who will be trying to get the hang of brush control and properly thinning paint, you really want him to be mixing his own colours too?

>>96681317
You act like it's some lost mystical art or something. Painters have been doing this for millennia, mixing your own colors has been a thing every painter was expected to do for 99.99% of the existence of the art form. Miniature painters are the only painters to have ever existed who don't always mix their colors, and it's entirely driven by profit motive from the companies making paint for the hobby.

It's an important skill to have, and it saves money, and it's honestly not that hard. Even 'complicated' stuff like skin tones become easy to mix once you look up some recipes. It is _a_ hurdle, sure, but it's not that much of one, and it's one worth learning anyways.

>>96681346
>Painters have been doing this for millennia
Yet you're telling him to buy acrylic paints, instead of grinding pigment and making his own paints with oil or eggwhites or whatever. Because deep inside you too understand that trying to do it like Rembrandt did is way more trouble than its worth nowadays, even if you don't want to admit it to yourself now that it's time to have the highest Painter Purity Score™ in an online discussion.

>Miniature painters are the only painters to have ever existed who don't always mix their colors
This at least we can assume is just you utterly oblivious about scale model making and house painting alike, instead of (sub)consciously ignoring them.

>>96679811
>>96679791
This is slick, anon

>>96681443
Get the fuck out of here if you just want to troll with bad faith responses for internet brownie points. Guy asked a question, and he got an answer. If you want to troll, go do it somewhere else.

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>>96681102
>pic related is from an old school GW catalog - when they were still mentioning brand names from other companies

I was honestly pretty shocked when one of the newest White Dwarf issues had a two page guide to using Micro Sol and Micro Set for decals.
They don't use the brand name, just refer to them as, "Decal setting solution," and, "Decal solvent," and only show pics of the bottles from a highly top-down perspective with the brand face of the bottle turned away.

Some of the other little painting recipe guides include people making an oil wash from oil paints, and of course using an airbrush for certain colours, especially orange.

I dunno. It's kind of interesting to see where they draw the line, where they recognize the realities of what products they just will never make themselves.

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Did some work on the Invictor. Still needs some work and cleaning up, but it's nearing the finish line

>>96680037
>>96680144
It'd be pretty cool if this became our standard.

>>96680147
>>96680185
As anon says just the specific colors of the rainbow that you need plus black and white, don't get two reds or two blues, etc... until you have one of each for the whole rainbow, mixing shadows and highlights with the addition of just a drop of b/w into the main color works great, you don't need 300 paints, though a fleshtone on top of the rainbow doesn't hurt, though I mix my own which is roughly a 1/1/3/5 mix of blue/red/yellow/white though I play it by eye.
Ideally it would be better to learn just cyan/magenta/yellow/white/black eventually.

>>96681478
I will post a spinny the next time I finish a thing (Wouldn't hold my breath).

>>96681477
Need bullet holes in at least one toe and at least one hip.

>>96681477
I, too, enjoyed Titanfall

>>96681255
I said blo and shellac were distinct from varnish. it's like how enamels and lacquers are both types of paint but it would be incorrect to say enamel is a type of lacquer, even though someone a some point has probably done so.

are you even american? what state do you live in?

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Anyone know what the color of this ship is called? Hex value doesn't give me the right type of metallic color.

>>96682057
Looks like a 50/50 mix of gold and silver.

>>96682057
Might be rose gold, though that could just be the ambient pink reflecting off of it.

>>96682080
I'm picking up a tiny hint of rose gold as well. Not straight rose gold, probably a mix of rose gold and silver like the other anon suggested.

>>96680763
good question, anon. I love both for their lore but I guess the minotaurs would be easier to paint if I wanted to expand into an army after painting this big lad.

>>96682109
>>96682080
>>96682072
danke schoen

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>tfw can't post spinny because I don't actually paint the back of most of my models, I just take a photo and don't show the back

>>96682306
> I don't actually paint the back of most of my models, I just take a photo and don't show the back
you don't do this. No one does this.

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>>96682393
>No one does this.
Mike McVey did this. Some pretty famous pieces are supposedly unpainted in the back (dioramas mostly, but back in the day when people in the studio were living deadline to dealing I wouldn't be surprised if some other stuff got the same treatment as well).

>>96682057
Scale75 had a color that was basically that in their metal and alchemy range. For some reason the website is down though, so I can't look up the name. I think Moonstone Alchemy SC94~
Looks pretty close from the pictures I've seen.

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Working on a couple projects at once. Just got the base coat airbrushed

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Can I post my napoleonics here?

>>96683515
I don't know anything about historicals but something that's not space marines is always refreshing to see here

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>>96683523
Cool, then I'll post my progress as I go along. Usually into hex&chits or even odschool blocks kriegspiel style, but decided to get into some TT. Got that metal set as display piece and then picrel for army building. Not sure how much I might regret starting this, as its 80 figures to a battalion...

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>>96683564
Old guard with their supporting units all de-framed.

>>96681535
There will definitely be more weathering, yeah.

>>96681607
I still miss Titanfall

>>96681477
This is fucking sick.
I can't help but imagine this guy delicately drawing that knife and holding it pinched between index finger and thumb, then brandishing it at a tau civilian or some shit.
>NOTHIN'S OVER WHILE AH'M BREATHIN'
>>96682475
>Emps in white armor and barely any gold
This is now canon to me, and all depictions of Big E in gold armor are in-canon paintings made by zealots, thousands of years later.
I would bet that Rogal Dorn also didn't really wear gold.

>>96666627
I like em
But if it's not GW people don't comment

>>96683671
>320 figures
>it's not even an entire army but just one element of it
L A M O
People into historicals are really something else.

>>96672627
Nigger IPA is used on skin all the time, you are the exact type of moron that guy above warned about
If you don't know STFU

>>96672836
>it's none of my business
Then why are you posting?

>>96683807
why are you responding to such an old shitpost?

>>96673537
Bandai is far bigger than GW, and asian

>>96673537
I mean, both need sanding at the end of the day.

>Took half a day to paint ok lips
>Maybe a little bit more pink here red there
>the paint become too thick i can't see the lips anymore
FUCK!

>>96684430
Post em.

>>96682475
>back in the day when people in the studio were living deadline to deadline
Ah yes, those times were terrible, glad the economy got better and we can live comfortably without undue stress over the future.

>>96682393
I do somethibg similar on my 6mm rank&file minis. The front line gets attention, the rest gets the "leg, torso, headpiece" treatment before being DIPPED. (E.g. Brits its black legs, red torso, black hats, done, only the front line gets the golden bits and pieces, white gloves, wooden gunstock etc.)

I just rattlecanned minis for 4 minutes without mask. Prognosis?

>>96683671
I've always liked the look of Napoleonic on gaming tables, more so than wh40k

>>96684495
Rectal asbestosis. RIP

>>96684495
HIVAIDS to your balls tomorrow

>>96671268
I think this would really pop with some colored eye lenses. I agree with the other anon about the tabard.

>>96683792
Bought for ¼ the price of a gw battleforce

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How do you even use this thing on a small 30-75mm mini?

>>96684923
you can do highlights and shit by tapping the powder on
its best to use a matt topcoat before applying it, sticks better, then seal it again to preserve it

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10 nearly done (drying and then touching up).
>>96683792
I mean, ye its a lot, but they are less than half the height of a GW grunt. Unless you have severe OCD you just accept the level of detail is going to be less (e.g. no edge highlighting) and that the painting won't be as neat. Gotta remember that it is about the group look viewed from 50cm or more. These aren't the 28mm perry/victrix models.

>>96684923
Might be a good way to add blush to a mini

>>96683792
You've just got to keep reminding yourself how fucking sick they'll look once you get them all done and on the table

>>96681477
Goddamn that's cool. I've got a bunch of old sentinels I was gonna give away but maybe I should rip them for parts.

>>96682504
that is very close to moonstone alchemy. my fav for highlighting gold.

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>>96683753
>>NOTHIN'S OVER WHILE AH'M BREATHIN'
lel, yeah, something similar was my original impulse. But it's for the pilot.

>>96685333
Glad you like it, anon!
Sentinel is a peak kit for mech kitbashing, I would keep them.

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I'm looking forwards to painting these guys. I stuck some gubbins on them to make them more like recon troops and tacticool, and then the new suits were previewed.

Hoping someone might be able to help me out. Painted up some miniatures, used streaking grime on them, and then sprayed them with matte varnish. Problem is now they are slightly tacky. Is there a way to get rid of the tackiness without stripping the models completely?

>>96685685
Let them dry for a couple days, if still sticky you can use brush on varnish with a dip of water

>>96685561
What will be your color scheme? Looks fun

>>96685685
What kind of matte varnish?
Some products take a while to actually cure all the way (and not scientifically but in my anecdotal experience sometimes reactions between products cause weirdness in curing that usually goes away eventually). I suspect it will stop being tacky on it's own but it might take a couple of days.
I primed with some rustoleum once and I think it had a weird reaction with maybe a not completely cured resin model, and it took literally like 2 weeks to stop being tacky but eventually it was fine.
Could also be that the coat was thick.

>>96685719
I'm gonna experiment a bit. A desert scheme and woods scheme.

>>96685742
>>96685685
If he used Vallejo matt varnish on spray can, this shit is odd and often dries unnaturally long. Just a guess based on my own experience.

>>96685714
>>96685742
>>96685861

It was a spray can of Tree House Studio clear acrylic matte coating. It was what the nearest Hobby Lobby had. Been about a week since they were sprayed and they are still tacky.

Is varnish a meme? The only time I've ever varnished a models they were ruined. I've only had a handful of scrapes from incompetent handling and never an issue after bubble wrapping.

>>96685848
If you're experimenting, a navy camo could be good too

>>96686022
It provides a small layer of protection if you play with greasy/sweaty hands and tend to ruin your minis on a chemical level.

It has been proved by that serial killer looking youtuber that I dislike, that it does absolutely nothing to prevent chipping and that kind of physical damage.
But it was more about the normal acrylic layers being really sturdy by themselves rather than the varnish letting the models get damaged anyway.

>>96686031
I tried to do an irl chocolate chip cookie scheme on a bunch of other suits and I didn't really like it so I'm gonna try out a solid color first.

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1 done, 14 to go. Leaving basing to the end, my terrain matt hasn't come in yet and I want it to kinda match

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>>96673048
>I love that the dude she's stepping on has neural ports for power armor, it's a great peace of storytelling for this character to have the extremely drukhari coded instrument but also have what's probably an EC as a thrall/future bass guitar.
I hide him in tentacle bc it was riny and looked silly near all oyher demons,

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>>96673048
>>96686371
about this size

>>96686371
Are this guy’s models of decent quality? With the codex i’m finally finishing my Deldar army and his stuff is way cheaper than the GW stuff I already have.

>>96686364
I tried batch painting a few marines once, felt terrible.

I can't imagine doing something like this for hundreds of them, good show

>>96686022
Not really, it does prevent chipping and protect paint from sunlight. Painters were applying varnish over their work for a reason.

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>>96686536
The price, amount and size makes it easier to accept a lower standard.
Price is about 10 Euros for every 100 soldiers @13mm.
@28mm I'd be painting to a much higher standard (but would also be fielding an order of magnitude fewer units).

Thing is, for me, Napoleonic looks better at smaller scales with larger battlefields. For skirmish games I'd rather play a WW2 era squad based system or 40k (kill team). Picrel is IMHO, best suited for dioramas.

>>96683671
Wait, so how many units would a typical game see on the table?

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>>96686915
Pic is a relatively high count.

Quite dependent on ruleset and house rules dictating the granularity, as in what you want the smallest unit set to represent. 1:1 is not feasible at any scale. E.g. Austerlitz saw more than 70000 French troops, say you wanted to present a line of 3500 troops (5%), even if every soldier were a 1mm wide you'd need 3,5m width. The only way to get that done is with 2mm minis and a comically sized table.
For my games a battalion is about 1:15 to what it was IRL (with a size scale of about 1:120 that's of half bad). A level of abstraction will nearly always be required.

Also, I ain't painting 70000 doods, not in any fashion, the sprue cutting alone would drive you mad.

>>96687143
This really drives home the sheer scale of those battles. I think the only movie that got close to portraying it was the old Waterloo film. Ridley Scott's Napoleon did a terrible job at conveying any sense of scale (he should've just asked Brazzers to make a Josephine X Nappy film)

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What are your go-to paints/solvents/cups(?) For oil washing? I'm new as shit to this entire area and need a buyer's guide so I can speedrun SM.

>>96687236
All the cheap stuff, anything that is not cheap is a scam. Oil paints and the white spirits used to dilute them are dirtcheap. It also destroys brushes so get those cheap too. The only thing to not be cheap on is your ventilation if you decide to spraypaint with mineral spirit diluted oil paint.

>>96687236
>75ml W&N in a glass bottle
My brother in Christ, just get a 1L bottle of white spirit for pocketchange

>>96687185
napoleon_xxx_1_-_a_diary_of_a_sexual_conqueror_from_france

>>96687236
WN, but sansodor. Sansodor is generally the best grade white spirit, which is also a bit nicer to your lungs.

>>96685993
Just a followup on this. Since it is tacky on the rim of the bases too, I tried cleaning one with some white spirits, which didn't seem to take much of anything off. Dried it with some paper towel and checked it and it was still tacky. I then brushed on some Liquitex matte varnish and waited for it to completely dry. Just checked it and it's still tacky... I really don't want to strip them and start over, but unless something like Dullcote can salvage this, it's looking like that's going to be the case... Anyone got any suggestions?

>Trying to base coat tiles for base
>Pallid Wych Flesh over pure white
>Doesn't cover for shit
I'm on like 5 coats of this shit goddamn it