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Work in Progress II, Secret of the Oozing Pustules Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

>Previous Threads:
>>97467327
>>97445262
>>97429963
>>
does rattlecan testors dullcote desature colors a lot?

i tried brushing on the 50/50 matte varnish/contrast medium mix from the ducan varnish video but thought my model looked pretty desaturated afterwards
>>
>>97484786
a little bit, not a lot. Make sure you shake the can very very thoroughly or it can go on opaque.
>>
>>97484689
What is that burgundy in the recesses of thr fleshy bits here? How was it applied?
>>
Are those cheap 40 dollarish air brushes worth it? Or am I wasting my money untill reaching more like the 100 dollar price point?
>>
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I got this rust monster at convention from a discounted blind bag for broken prints. It was missing an antenna so I crafted one from plasticard. Unfortunately I was being clumsy and dropped it and had to glue it back together. I can't be too mad because it was heavily discounted.
>>
Does dishwasher soap strip paint from miniatures?
>>
>>97484906
>broken prints
>heavily discounted
so you paid less than a dollar for it?
>>
>>97485039
It was a blind bag of 5 with at least one being a big one for a total of $5.
>>
>>97484948
No. Use rubbing alcohol.
>>
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So i was gifted an old land raider and stripped the paint off, re primed the model, and am getting these weird textures from the paint. I’ve had success stripping smaller miniatures in iso alcohol before so i’m not really sure what the problem is. Is this maybe leftover paint or just a bad texture from priming? Would it be best to continue or should i strip it again?
>>
>>97485048
So yes, alright then.
Glad to hear it, usually people selling prints are highway robbers with pricing.
>>
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Wood elf general planning phase
>>
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Repostan tonk. Wondering what to work on next. Got a rhino and a vindicator I've already started but I want a break from vehicles for a while.
>>
>>97485056

What if the model is resin?
>>
>>97485069
I've seen weird buildup and cracking like that from a priming job gone bad. You probably won't notice all those gnarly bits when it's down on the tabletop but personally I would strip it again.
>>
>>97485225
probably fine for resin since you are only letting it soak for 5 to 10 minutes

if you leave it in for hours it could be bad so don't do that
>>
>>97485225
People say simple green.
Honestly though I don't advocate stripping minis in general unless they're metal and you can use the real chemicals.
Just reprime it and start over
>>
>>97485163
These chaos marines sure do keep their tanks in pristine condition. Also, fuck that guy's eldar! (not really)
>>
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I am painting these guys really irresponsibly and I'm gonna kick myself later for jumping around on them the way I am.
>>
Trying to remove paint from old models; Should I get 91% IPA or 99%?
>>
>>97485345
99% is best if you can get it and is usually cheapest as well

don't go below 90%
>>
>>97482051
canadian loonie (26.5mm) for scale. took 24h to print 5 pieces of terrain using ~100g of filament but i can't even see the layer lines without the macro lens
>>
>>97485490
what's the plan to hide those layer lines? or are you leaving them like that?
>>
>>97484906
come on nigga this is like the 3rd model you have posted in as many days that looks like it got snowed on. what are you doing?
>>
>>97485589
leaving them like that, literally can't see the layer lines from 8 inches away and i picked the world part of the mini i could find (that sloping rock top.) with 0.06mm layer height I'm assuming primer+paint will largely make them disappear. I'll prime them tonight and post results.
i'll probably end up getting a resin printer when it comes to printing minis because cleaning up the FDM supports is rough, plus the higher resolution and less visible layer lines
>>
>>97485490
>>97485589
Most people resin print terrain at 0.05mm to save time. You'd only get a 20% improvement on layer line visibility and it comes with the pain of working with resin, cleaning it, curing it, the smell. If you're only printing terrain stick with FDM.
>>
>>97485619
i have an fdm printer, i just can't stand seeing the lines
>>
>>97485490
>i can't even see the layer lines without the macro lens
>>97485657
That's been my experience. At 8 inches away/painting distance I can't see the layer lines on a 0.06mm print unless it's like the top of that rock in the picture and I angle it so the light catches the edges. Layer lines always look worse in macro
>>
>>97485294
>dip in 99% IPA overnight
>scrub in the same IPA
99.5% of paint will go right away, and the remaining will go away with harder scrubbing.
>>
>>97485080
Yeah their prices seemed reasonable, Reaper prices.

>>97485613
You could try a filler primer.

>>97485594
You're probably thinking of someone else because I got these preprimed.
>>
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Finished my kanz - tried to do some freehand on all of them to keep practising - now for more boys.
>>
>>97486042
Oi, dat blue lookin nice and lucky.
>>
>>97486042
>Blue white and gold
>There's three of them

the one in the front is going to be captain of Dah Sekund Krumpany next time we see him.

Shame about Kappin' Krakaran and Koy'Ron dying to that Genestealer.
>>
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Reposting some dwarf lasses for C&C
>>
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Finished my brain bug.
>>
>>97486308
arigatou, sensei
>>
>>97486275
I like the freehands. The hair could use some shading. The skirt and frog suit are also pretty flat.
>>
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>>97486308
>Finished my brain bug.
What's it thinking, colonel?
>>
>>97486275
The eyes are well painted but pointing in different directions. The green parts of the eyepatch dwarf is really flat and could use some more shading and highlights
>>
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>lookin' good
Enjoy my latest finished dude /WIP/
>>
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cleaned up the white but now I need to clean up my cleaning up the white.
such is life for shaky hands
>>
>>97487189
don't forget to turn off the flash for minis
>>
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>>97487361
>>
>>97487419
Nice photo composition
>>
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I'm not sure if Tau Light Ocre is a good highlight for leather. Right is them after highlighting. The lines are too stark. I may have to do a Rinox Hide gloss over them.
How do you guys do leather?
>>
>>97487605
It kinda works but yeah something less yellow-ish would work better. Use something like Karak Stone if you want it cold and something like Doombull Brown if you want it warmer.
>>
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Finished my Tactical Warsuit. Replaced the Space Marine with a normal Astra Militarum soldier since I always thought the Tactical Warsuit looked inappropiate for big bulky Space Marines.
>>
>>97487634
Based, I also wanted to do this. That said, unarmored roll cage is still a bit silly.
>>
>>97487630
I already used doombull brown for the thicker highlight. I guess I'll try glazing that over the ocre rather than rhinox hide. Good call.
>>
>>97487648
Yeah, thought so too, it reminded me of the super old Sentinel model from 25 years ago where the pilot didn't even had a roof above his head.
>>
>>97487650
oh all right, well you could go with what GW recommends for highlighting doombull brown which is tuskgor fur
>>
>>97487697
Ah shit, I thought it was Tau Light Ocre.
>>
>>97487700
You're right. GW might recommend one thing, but the actual box art painting scheme is another matter.
>>
>>97487713
Here they use Skrag Brown for the first highlight though. So he should at least switch one of the colors depending if he wants it reddish or yellowish
>>
>>97487700
>oh no I thought it was light brown, not light brown!
don't forget to use magmatic daemon diarrhea to highlight your infernal flaming feces.
>>
>>97487733
nta but fuck off, faggot
>>
>>97487736
NTA, but the naming is no only cringe, but unhelpful.
>>
Who are your favorite mini painters you look to for inspiration these days?
>>
>>97487753
yes they're stupid but we were specifically discussing GW paints
>>
>>97487778
and the fact is that in a vacuum one shade of light brown is effectively identical to another shade of light brown.
the tones of the other colors you use it with, your particular basing choice and the background it is viewed againt are going to have far more impact on it's percieved hue value than the minor difference between trademark name A and trademark name B
>>
>>97487867
>and the fact is that in a vacuum one shade of light brown is effectively identical to another shade of light brown
Ridiculous thing to say when it comes to brown in particular.
>>
What kind of tools do I actually need for making so called panel lines on scratchbuild parts? One of the tools at local shop looked exactly like the one I use to cut plastic/glass by marking line and snapping at it so I'm little confused.
>>
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>>97487901
A cheap scribing tool with bits (or fancy ones, whatever) and they sell tape specifically for that that is hard and very sticky that you can apply and use as a straight edge guide.
I find the scribing tools actually come in handy pretty often for cleaning up minis as well.
>>
>>97487928
why do panels lines trigger the same neurons as seeing a sexy woman?
>>
>>97487970
beauty is beauty
>>
>>97485294

What's the equivalent of simple green available in central Europe, Poland specifically? I botched a basecoat on a patch of printed miniatures and I wouldn't want to throw them away due to my earlier failure.
>>
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>>97488072
>Poland

I recommend this little shit, from company Wamod. Surprisingly gentle to plastic while dissolving even old and thick paint layers. Dip for few minutes, ideally in sealed jar or something, take out, wash with water (with detergent) and scrub with old toothbrush. Just don't breath the fumes. Seriously, don't.
>>
>>97488169
Is that purple heart?
>>
>>97488169
>je-mee-wack-zz
Pronunciation close or no?
>>
>>97488191
Not even close anon.
>>
>>97488202
is this one of those instances where the established phonetic value of the specific letters involved is completely ignored?
>>
>>97488191
nta but go type zmywacz on google translate or something, I don't know even know how to write it phonetically lmao
>>
>>97488213
I thought it would be obvious because I can pick out the words that mean "ideally" "acrylic" "colour" and "characteristic" and I have no learning exposure to polish specifically, only german.
>>
>>97488169

Dziękuję, I thought of getting some isopropyl alcohol from Leroy Merlin.

Can I just dip a toothbrush in the stuff and scrub it against the model?
>>
>there are at least 3 polacks in this thread
I hope you're all femboys like the internet told me
>>
>>97488272
A) the conversation has only proven 2 and definitively proven that 1 participant is not.
B) you're injecting your sexuality again, bottom, GTFO
>>
>>97488322
It was a joke, chill out anon. I'm not that sissy fag
>>
>>97488272
I'm just dude, bro.
Femboy memes are just that. Never seen a femboy in my life.
>>
>>97488178
Yes, indeed. I have soft spot for her.

>>97488242
Could work if paint is thin, I would dip it anyway. If you pour some to glass jar and close the lid, you should be fine, can always reuse it like that.

>>97488272
>>97488322
Memes write themselves, when I was at anime con I saw several traps so...
>>
>>97488467
>Yes, indeed. I have soft spot for her.
I like her sister. However I still can't believe she did that to rom and ram...
>>
>>97488467

Is there a risk of IPA destroying a resin model if it stays there for too long?
>>
>>97488522
yes
>>
>>97488522
No idea about resin but it could damage plastic if left for prolonged time. It, however, evaporate very quickly so quick, few minutes dips should be safe. No idea about resin, however.
>>
>>97488542
>it could damage plastic if left for prolonged time
that's not correct
>>
>>97488545
Last time I checked, IPA could react with plastic if left for literal hours but short times inside of spraying over the model is safe due to mentioned quick evaporation.
>>
>>97488209
>established phonetic value of the specific letters involved is completely ignored?
If you mean the value for the English pronunciation implying such a thing even exists, then yes. If you mean the value for Polish, then no, it's generally pronounced very consistently.
>>
>>97488509
Conquest route is not canon ;_;
>>
>>97488169
>wamod
dzięki, w życiu nie spodziewałbym się czegoś dobrego po Wamodzie, ale patrzcie państwo. NTA jakby co :)

>>97488272
>I hope you're all femboys like the internet told me
I'm not, and I haven't seen a femboy here in... years, if ever. Then again, I don't go to gay gatherings nor anime conventions.
>>
>>97488522
Depends on the resin.
>>
>>97488242
>I thought of getting some isopropyl alcohol from Leroy Merlin.
Do it anyway and put some into a mini-atomiser, it's great for cleaning paint that hasn't dried fully and other stuff.
>>
>>97488542
No, it can't damage the usual plastic minis are made of.
t. kept some minis there for a month
>>
>>97488227
Those are loan words.
>>
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My another broadside but in RETURN TO MONKE edition
>>
>>97488643
Neato
>>
>>97488643
that's rad!
>>
>>97488643
but why?
>>
all of this "will x damage my plastic" talk makes me want to get a fdm printer so I can make miniatures out of nylon
>>
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>>97488643
cool zoid
>>
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>>97488705
why not? Broadsides have like ony 2 poses in general and they are booring. I dont want to have 6 same pose mechs
>>
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Tried to paint for the first time for a long time
>>
>>97488643
>RETURN TO MONT'KA
>>
>>97488877
Humblebrag?
>>
>>97488890
The what now?
>>
>>97488522
Play it safe and only submerge it for a minute, scrub and rinse. If it's photoresin, leaving it out in the sun hardens it.

t. Dumbass who left resin models in IPA too long
>>
>>97487189
>finished
>>
>>97488935
It's when you say something that seems self-deprecating but is actually a brag.
>I'm such an idiot, I accidentally broke my Rolex on vacation in the Maldives.
>>
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I tried a little bit of greenstuff kitbashing since the official models are quite expensive
Tried to keep the silhouettes the same at least
>>
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>>97489139
Shit, yeah. Obvious now that I read it outeloud.

Yeah, this is probably bestbä work I have ever painted, but I really have not done any of my minis in few years. I saw a YouTube video of someone showing how to do wet blending I just went for it.
>>
>>97488643
R A D
>>
>>97489288
It's cool man, I was just poking fun. Your model looks good.
>>
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>>97489041
3ft rule
>>
>>97488522
I've forgotten some prints in my isopropyl jar for a week and when they came out there was some funny squiggly lines on them that indicated degradation, but they painted up fine,
a few hours is no problem though.
>>
>>97488877
Very pleasant colors! Pretty impressive if that's your first work after an extended break.
>>97488643
So goofy, I love it.
>>97487634
Nice and clean!
>>97486308
Your scheme feels very balanced and the carapace looks great.
>>97486275
Cute ladies. I'm going to second that their hair would benefit from some shading.
>>97486042
Lovely work anon, I like the weathering a lot. It's really fun seeing different takes on these models.
>>
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Mummies for TK.
Close enough for government work.
>>
>>97490134
>TK
??
>>
>>97490148
Oh, tomb kings.
I'm retarded and was like "backwards kill team?"
>>
>painting setup is all in the basement, which is cold as fuck due to weather
>cant paint when I cant feel my fingers
>get a shitty heater fan thing
>it causes every single atom of moisture within 10 miles to evaporate and leave my paint pallet dry as fuck
I honestly fucking hate painting in winter.
>>
>>97486731
Thanks for the feedback, but plz dont tell me that about the eyes. Let's just pretend that everything is perfect and I dont need to do it again

>>97490019
Thanks kawaaii-neko-mitshubishisan I'll run some shading on the hair
>>
>>97490700
then paint in the kitchen
>>
This might be a retarded question, so please bare with me.

I've done a lot of mini painting but I've never really done terrain. I'm wanting to get into it, and I've watched a bunch of YouTube videos. The videos I've watched have all said to not waste mini paint on terrain and you can use craft paint. A lot of them specifically have said they use Apple Barrel from Walmart.

Do I need to thin the Walmart craft paint? I've been trying to use it and it's horribly uneven in coverage. But when I try thinning it with water it loses pretty much all its pigment and I'd need to do layer after layer to get it to show up. Which, that would in theory be fine but I've been having to wait around 20 minutes between layers for the paint to dry.

Idk sorry if I'm just retarded but I'm not sure what to do be doing here. I want to make nice terrain but this paint is so sloppy.
>>
>>97488877
Cool painterly look.
>>
>>97488643
Bonus points if you can turn it into a coconut gun
>>
If someone had to learn to paint from scratch, without employing the use of videos from sloptubers, how would you suggest they do so?
>>
>>97491138
ask other people
>>
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>>97485490
went out and bought the 200ml vallejo black primer
>first time using an airbrush
>don't mix enough paint to prime 1/4 of a piece of terrain
>mix more but don't realize until i clog the thing 4 times that it's way too thick
>clear the clogs with water + back pressure
>on last mini and dual action air brush is basically single action it's so clogged
>leave minis to dry, tear down airbrush and get it back to factory new
>priming job is super spotty with thin spots on some models
i think i'm below average even among first time airbrush users. by the end i remember to start air > start paint > stop paint > stop air and i would mix the paint thin then thicken if needed instead of thick to thin. tearing down the airbrush gave me a lot more confidence with the thing too. vallejo says it dries to the touch in 15-30 mins but takes 24-48h to cure so i'll be back tomorrow with some painting
>>
>>97491138
When I first started I would just try to replicate the source material/a paint job I liked. Turned it into a 3d coloring book baisically, and had to find out how to make the right colors with what I had. After that, was just seeing techniques and trying to replicate them.
>>
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>>
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>>97488877
>>97486042
>>97486308
>>97486275
>>
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Good lord, I didn't even finish blocking in stuff tonight and I probably need to do a second coat on the base for the copper stuff.
These guys are looking more like they're going to end up taking more of the month than I was expecting.
>>
>>97491138
Either by trial and error or by reading old White Dwarf magazines. That's how I did it before youtube. Then again, one good tutorial video can teach you what 100+ hours of experience would not.
>>
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>>
>>97484689
Any advice for painting bulky vehicles? I can paint my guys alright, but I have a few vehicles and tanks that I've been putting off painting.

I'm thinking about hitting them with rattlecan primer->airbrush block painting->detail work with brushes->hit it with some washes->dab on some enamel weathering/rust shit
>>
>>97491450
Look at photos of real life vehicles for inspiration. Night Shift on Youtube does lots of tanks, you might find something useful there.
>>
>>97491265
What is this model? Really cool sculpt, and the paint job isn't half bad either!
>>
>>97490019
>Global rule 13: Do not use avatars or attach signatures to your posts.
>>
>>97491316
They got a lot of surface area.
>>
does water based primer even etch the plastic? has anyone done any durability comparisons?



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