Work in Progress, Late Sunday Edition>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin:https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD>WIP Tutorial Images Megahttps://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paintshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s>Paint thinning 102https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginnershttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM>Decal Like a Prohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c>How to Edge Highlighthttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk>How to use contrast style paintshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI>How to Paint with Tremorshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g>Airbrush Priming and Thinninghttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxEhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFghttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special wayhttps://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/JohnnyPrevious threads:>>98465121>>98453998>>98441765
>Bought custodes recast>snipped off sprue>realize ever set of arms is for a specific body and weapon>6x6x6 combinations>straight to the pile of shame for bitsleast it was only $15
>>98482322If you can find youtube videos on these models, you can generally figure out what piece goes with what. If it is based on a plastic kit, you can find on plebbit scans of the instructions which can also help
>>98482322Regardless of original or new kits, you should do them one at a time by virtue of all the two-handed poses anyway (and on Wardens you may fuck up the torso connection on one if snipping it all), but the arms should all be swappable. About the most trouble I've had with the newer guard kits is that the plumes very much get in the way of head posing.
>don't post for a few threads>collage every OP>post>no collage next OPevery time
>>98482376for (you)
>>98482376They expect one of us in the wreckage, brother.
Kovach the Devoured that I'm working on! Think I'm going to try some shading on the red, but id like some suggestions for sprucing up the sword, if anyone has any. Thanks!
And the shield im very happy with
>>98482376Your berserkers were nothing special don't worry
I painted the other twin a few months ago and that was way more fun than this
>>98482507bruh you didn't even attempt to clean up that model. isn't that thing like $60? why spend that much money and then treat it like shit?
>>98482322Thats the standard Games Workshop (TM) experience. I built all my guardsmen torsos as I was cleaning them (which are naturally in 2 parts) only to later realize you need to keep them apart to get a good fit on the legs. So you have to keep track which 2 torso parts go together with which legs. Assembling minis from other companies is an absolute joy compared to this shit. Fuck 'em forever
>>98482650wow I feel bad for you faggots. my orks are a joy to build, no keeping track of anything
>>98482352Have you seen the new custodes kit?
>>98482367Nah, the arms have tiny differences, you wouldn't see it on instructions, the legs took like 1/2 hour, I'm not spending an hour+ for the restDead custodes will be decorating my bases
>>98482650I've done that too
first castas expected y has a number of bubbles, but its very usablei think ill get a pressure pot tho
>>98482827The bubbles imo make for a pretty neat texture
>>98482834the texture is intentional, this is the master
Finished sculpting the rest of the bits of this dude - tried using an AI mini painter for the first time to test out the paint scheme and ngl kind of sad I can't paint a red as nice as this.TW: clanker content
>>98482322Why do people remove all the bits first? What possible benefit could it have?
>>98482827looking good gz>>98482963well they are going to the bitz box after anywaysand of course you assume you can just mix and match every part
Finished another scout. I'm getting the hang of acrylics and this time subassembly wasn't a complete shitshow, even if the left hand isn't attached to the body of the rocket launcher (whatever, I guess). I'm also getting used to the wet palette, although I don't really feel the need to thin colors but instead just apply them after spreading them a bit on the palette.On an unrelated note, do you guys buy paint sets or just the single paints you'll need for a specific mini/army? I've eyed a set from Army Painter (I've heard their paints are on the thick side tho) and one from Vallejo but i'm afraid that might be overkill. Cheers!
I've been hard at work on this Centaur RSV in the last few weeks. Pretty happy with how my first painted vehicule is turning out. Currently working on the five guardsman that are part of the miniature in that little diorama in the cargo bed. I'm astonished by how I'm already better at painting the little details compared to my first unit of Cadian Shock Troopers. Though I'll admit I would've thought I'd be done with the Centaur by now, I'm really slow.
Any thoughts on putting gloss varnish over eyes to make them shine more? Has anyone done this? Can I see pics?
>>98483104I think eyes in particular look better with some simple reflections painted in, I feel like gloss varnish would make them look unnatural
Stop using miniature paint, NOW!
>>98483304kys
>>98483304buy an ad
>>98483304Decent bait, gotta work AI slop in there somehow
>>98482963I assumed it would be simple, never seen a kit like this, at this point I prefer pushfit from GW, both are in customisable but the new kits are needlessly over complex, no reason to split the arm up in two pieces
>>98483304rope yourself posthaste
>>98483304He's right.
>>98483304>Pro miniature artist
>>98483002>I don't really feel the need to thin colors but instead just apply them after spreading them a bit on the paletteThat's how I do it too, just gotta get a bit of water on the brush and wick off the excess on a towel.>paint setsI bought 2 Vallejo ones when I first started painting and there's several colors there I almost never use. Now I just buy specific colors that I want.
>>98483002With most modern hobby paints that's all you need to do, once you get a feel for what thinned consistency SHOULD be like and you learn how to properly load your brush you don't need to stress about introducing additional water to thin paints
Learned elders of /WIP/, has anyone here copper or plasticard tubes to make barrels for primitive miniature firearms? I've an idea in mind for a modeling project and I saw someone already using copper tubes for handguns over at Facebook.
Just finished this muscle demon girl
>>98483553Yeah, it's a normal thing to do. Copper rods/tubes for tank canons and even smaller weapons are a regular thing to do. Though you might want to look into cutting tools for these.
>>98483581
>>98482827>pressure potPressure makes bubbles smaller. Vacuum makes them go away entirely. It’s not hard to diy one but I notice that the usual Chinese scumbags are now selling degassing chambers, so that’s probably the way to go.>>98483002> don't really feel the need to thin colors but instead just apply them after spreading them a bit on the paletteIf you’re spreading them on a wet pallet, you’re thinning them a bit. Don’t sweat it. The proper amount of thinning is what’s required to make it flow well and that varies between paints. Some paints require no thinning at all.> paint sets or just the single paintsSingles, but I’m in kind of deep. I’ve acquired a large assortment of paints over the decades so I usually have something that’s close enough. If not, I’ll take a trip to Michael’s if Golden makes it or I’ll mix it up myself with inks and an appropriate medium.
>>98483586breddy good is this a game piece or a show piece?
>need to make a sashimonoGonna make the frame out of some brass rods. What can I use for the cloth and little strips that attach the cloth to the frame? And the joint there?I was going to try cutting up an aluminum can but idk if that will work
>>98483584Also it's a good idea to have a soldering iron on hand, since many of those tubes are designed to telescope, and soldering them together gives them a really solid bond
>>98483596Well, no one's gonna see it except /wip/ anyway, so I guess it's a solo game piece?
>>98483602What kind of scale are you planning on making the pole? It might make more sense to use stiff wire or wooden skewers/toothpicks.
>>98483602>What can I use for the cloth and little strips that attach the cloth to the frame?Little strips of paper should do the trick. Aluminium works well for cloth that is flapping in the wind, otherwise you would just use paper, as is the classic method for boss poles.
>>98483584>>98483612Thanks, my idea was to cut very thin tubes, less than 2mm in diameter and convert pic related to handgunners. Would use thin masking tape to create those metal bands that often held primitive firearms together.
>>98483620I have some 1mm brass rodsit's for 28mm heroic scale (warhammer)
>>98483593>Pressure makes bubbles smaller. Vacuum makes them go away entirely. It’s not hard to diy one but I notice that the usual Chinese scumbags are now selling degassing chambers, so that’s probably the way to go.i'm planning on getting a vevor pot that does both and modify a fridge compressor to blow and suck
im customising every kroot atm 40/80i want every 10 man squad to bea lead by 3 fem (i somehow want to make them bigger than the rest of squad but i dont have idea for that atm) for now they are marked with plumes on the head and chest piece. the reddish paintscheme was a test for skin but i prob gonna change it cuz i dont think its looks good.
>>98483586cool model where i can get it anon?
>>98482298Is brush on primer any different from base paints, the high temps and humidity in my area make spray can primer pretty much guarantee shit results so I need a way to paint my guys, I saw many threads ago some anon with paint on primer and it looked good but just want to know if there's any technical information I need to know before going out buying specific primer paints? Im not army painting so I generally use Mr. Hobby 1800 primer and want something for that level of detail preserving.
>out of town for work and can't hobby for the weekugh
>>98483890Seach Mad minis on Telegram. The model is pretty low quality though
>>98483994must be private
>>98484037Google mad minis free stl then
>>98484081Yeah i already know not to just use the built-in search, all that comes up is "mad's minis" which is an empty channel with 28 subs that links to a myminifactory selling STL's at $30 each.
>>98483883King shit. I'm going to alter all my my ogres but I couldn't even imagine doing it to 80 models.
>>98483005The troopers look like they're trapped by some bizarre goo and desperately fighting to get free.
>>98483994nta, but I thought this was an eldfall chronicles mini. I might be mistaken though.
>>98484214Eldfall has something real similar
>>98484249Oh yeah I'm probably just mixing it up with that one that, that other anon was painting that one and the mounted version a while ago.
>>98484249I should get this model just because I don't really like the way the box art looks.
Iron golem for the next D&D game.
>>98484457(he has a dickbutt rune on his butt)
>>98484466Reddit
>>98484720newfag
>>98483708>modify a fridge compressor to blow and suckjust ask ur mom lmao gottem
>kitbashing japanese inspired traitor guardJust discovered the japanese empire dudes from konflict 47 and holy shit they're perfect.
I hope this is correct shade for Farsight. Overall I appreciate airbrush effects but it's really annoying to spend more time on cleaning than on actual painting. But there is nothing than can be done, I tried every advice /WIP/ could think of, it still clogs.
To back that claim up - this is how it looked like after flushing with water, IPA, airbrush cleaner (three times + backflow) and water again.Meanwhile H&S dude simply flush once and voila, perfectly clean.
>>98484844>Meanwhile H&S dude simply flush once and voila, perfectly clean.You usually need a couple of backbraps and flushes, but it takes like 30 seconds tops. I have no idea what you are doing wrong. Assuming you are cleaning the needle tip every couple of seconds, right? Also, if I remember correctly, you are Polish, right? You could try Modellers's World Acrylic Doctor, it's a local brand. It's an airbrush thinner/flow improver/retarder, but alcohol based. It works absolute wonders with all acrylics I tested it with (AK, Vallejo, Citadel).
>>984848442 things. You're probably not thinning enough, and should be using thinner, not water. And also you are probably blowing air through the empty airbrush.A key thing people don't always bring up regarding airbrushes is you can't blow air through them when they aren't full or it dries all the paint on the surfaces almost instantly. Once paint is collected on the surface it attracts more paint. You can keep it easy to clean by keeping the areas that are hard to reach wet while using it.H&S does sort of get to this in the other way, they will tell you to keep a damp brush to be able to frequently brush off any tip dry on the needle, because with acrylics it's pretty much unavoidable without massively over-thinning. But they talk about the tip, not the internals.Once your internals are dirty you basically have to take it apart and clean the dried on parts off physically (or chemically, acetone on a paper towel/q-tip works fine just avoid the plastic seals H&S have in their airbrushes). But if you keep it not-dry while in use it should be easy to keep clean for longer periods of time. The issue is probably more that it's already dirty, and paint sticks to the dirty areas.This is true for any reason it's dirty, but a reason they get dried paint in them and get dirty very easily by mistake is if you blow air through it when you use up all the paint in the pot and spray a couple of bursts of dry air through it.
>>98484891>just avoid the plastic seals H&S have in their airbrushesI sincerely don't know when was the last time HS used plastic seals. It's been teflon for a long time. Hence, you can spray lacquers and use all kinds of solvents to clean it.
>>98484836I would go with more scarlet red also remember that farsight have gray not white as a part of its color scheme. im trying to make farsight breacher cosplay so im trying to find perfect red myself.
>>98484824aint they like smaller than iguard model?
>>98484922Oh yeah idk that might be out of date or wrong, I am just careful because the thinner I use dissolves my cutting mat and I don't want to take any chances. I used to just soak the steel parts on my old airbrush that didn't have as many non-steel parts.
>>98483304Isn't that guy doing YT drama shit?
>>98484944Heh, yeah, I occasionally (like once per year) do a deep clean with MW Total Cleaner that has like eight warning about eating through your skin lmao. Still, teflon or viton seals are safe even from hardcore shit like this. I wouldn't soak it in the thing, but for cleaning, it's perfect.
>>98484958A guy who has a clickbait video about how YOU NEED TO [START|STOP] DOING THIS ONE THING! is engaging in youtube drama?I don't know, that doesn't sound right to me.
>>98484944H&S uses teflone, I checked before.>>98484891Don't know anymore how much is "thin enough". One guy do 1:1, another 2:1, AK own video showing at the start guy doing only 25% thinner and only 1 bar of pressure, another guy advice using 3 bar and so on. Oh and yeah, using flow improver too. No longer mixing brands as well. Cleaning the tip too but it's almost never dirty anyway. And yet after spraying some parts I can feel that trigger no longer returns to neutral position, instead getting loose, which means that end of the nozzle is start to accumulating dried paint.>>98484874>no idea what you do wrongMe neither and that's the problem, because I was discussing this matter on /WIP/ before. Even went to actual scale modellers and they had no idea either. So I just accepted that any more advanced techniques with airbrush are simply outside my range - no point in even trying to make pinpoint highlighting when you are not even sure how much you have to pull the trigger this time to release paint at all.
>>98485001>One guy do 1:1, another 2:1It depends on what you want to do. Regular spraying with AK 3rd gen, 1:1 is good 99% of time. Doing filters? 1:8 is a good starting point.
>>98484844To add to what the other anons said, how long the paint is in the cup also matters. The thinner the paint is the faster it separates. Also, leave the cup full of water and, optionally, some cleaner or reducer and empty it the following day.
>>98484943they look bigger if anythingthe sergeant looks a bit bigger too at least on mini compare
>>98485101Pretty good, that way you can add Kasrkin parts too.
>>98485092>The thinner the paint is the faster it separatesThat's something new. But it's also a serious problem since I cannot mix the paint in cup - I don't have that long brush and H&S entry for the cup is stupidly small, with H&S explicitly warning not to hit with metal part of the brush.
>>98485001>Don't know anymore how much is "thin enough".forget about ratios if it's clogging the needle it's too thick. reduce until it sprays and then adjust the air until you get a good pattern.
>>98485113Get a bigger brush.
>>98485113Get some cheap rigger brushes. And the only thing you fuck up if you touch the cup with your ferrule is the coating, which will go away anyway. Airbrush cups are, a very long-term, but still consumables.
>>98485140>>98485152get a rigger rush, raggy
>>98485161careful with that hard R now
>>98485113>>98485152I've been using a toothpick to mix the paintdid I fuck up my airbrush?
>>98484924Based cosplayer, I hope you get a lot of good photos.About color, I admit I have problems with getting that right, saturated, punchy red. Either too dark or too orange like. This time it was Burnt Red and covered by Matt Red.
>>98484844Clean it with windex it works like a charm
>>98485421if pure IPA is not helping, windex won't either.
>>98485435windex has some other stuff in it
Newfag here, first time painting but did an autistic amount of research and from everything I've seen pro acryl pyrrole orange is a color I should use to get what I want.But do they only sell this color in the pigment tubes?These tubes are not something I've really researched much, how different is it from regular "game ready" acrylics?
>>98485465The main difference (other than consistency, since you'll thin them anyway) is just that you're trading halfway decent coverage for the most saturated colors.
>>98485465That's a heavy body artist acrylic, it's thick and pasty where hobby acrylics generally are thin enough to apply without diluting heavy body acrylics can be used with models and are better for things like mixing colors but they do take care to use properly
>>98485522>>98485525Great, thanks, so essentially more thinning and careful with coverage?Would it be a good idea to prime some of the leftover sprue and do painting tests like this on them?
>>98485569Always a good idea to test stuff out.I really wouldn't bother with the pure pigment stuff as the only paint you use though unless you're okay with 1000 layers are trying to get super smooth blends (That sounds like I'm saying "well only use them if you want to be good", but it genuinely is unnecessary a lot of the time).I do a lot of painting with regular hobby paints, and then just use pure pigment paints to brighten up the lightest areas because if you do that with traditional hobby paints, you tend to lose saturation.
>>98485465newfag, my songet Golden soflat or Golden fluid acrylics (or Golden high flow) instead>>98485525Pro acryl is hobbyshit through and through. And either way there is no real reason to buy heavy body paints for miniatures when you can get single pigment paints in other formats.
>>98485612retard alert
And yes, do what this >>98485612 anon says and get golden rather than the PA onesI don't think there's anything wrong with the ones PA makes, but I don't really think there's any point in getting it over a pure pigment from Golden, either high flow or their heavy bodies. Once you get to pure pigment there's only so much difference between the product that's possible. The pigments are just listed by code. I don't even remember what Monument says about their expert line vs something like golden. Something about being more hobby friendly with the consistency? I'm not sure that matters given the need to thin it anyway.
Smelliest horse at the county fair
>>98485603Problem is I wanted to do high saturation color schemes but orange is apparently a problematic color, and this particular pyrrole orange was the best I've seen that actually LOOKS like a bright poppy orange and not just slightly washed down muddy orange or worse which is a common theme with some of these brighter colors.>>98485612Sadly they don't sell these here and ordering it would take way too long while I can order and get this tube of pro acryl pyrrole orange in a couple hours.Also can't find many examples of it being applied on miniatures,
Is it just me or is pro acryl too matte? Like it's so matte that it's creating texture on the mini. I don't really have this issue with other paints I've tried
>>98485659That's just you
>>98485658you will need to thin with mediumit will probably break if you try to thin with water
>>98485569>more thinning and careful with coverage?I don't mean to give you a zen koan but coverage isn't something you seek out, it's something that happens. If you watch paint thinning 102 in the OP, when you thin paint perfectly (takes practice) it will be controllable but not have any texture. Depending on the pigment opacity and density, it will either have coverage or it won't, and that's that. If it's nearly opaque you can add more than 2 layers to finish it off, but if it's too transparent you have to accommodate for that with underpainting (such as zenithal or just a lighter undercoat).I do like heavy body acrylic but it's a different animal.>>98485658Pyrrole orange isn't that opaque, as you can see from >>98485612 on the stripes.A lot of "problem" colors (yellow especially) just don't have an opaque pigment available, so paint manufacturers have a choice between muddying it with other colors or having it be translucent.If instead of pure pigment paints, you were to use a range of mini paints that focuses on opacity, you wouldn't be able to tell that you didn't have the brightest orange because it would still contrast with the other colors. Pure colors almost never exist in nature, even if you look at a monarch butterfly that's not pure orange hitting your eyes.
>oranges with poor coveragetake the cadmium pillor maybe don't, actually
>>98485730kek
He's bending his arrow so it goes around corners
>>98485773arrows bend more than that IRL when you let go the string.
Now comes the part where I ruin a perfectly fine paint job with terrible weathering and misplaced oil washes.
>>98485837How bad could oil washes really be? Just wipe it off if you fuck up.
>>98485837gloss varnish and you can just remove 99% of misplaced oils if you don't like it.
>>98485658Paint the part you want to make bright orange with a strong enough off-white like Citadel grey seer or celestra grey, highlight with a pure white like acryl pro bold titanium white, and then paint a translucent bright orange on. The paint underneath is very important for lighter colours such as orange or yellow, in a way red too.
>>98485846It's the where more than the ruining, I have recently done a rhino that way and it looks plain and dumb. I would like to make it look like certain results on google image
>>98485837It'll be fine. If you grab a big rectangular brush with some fucked up/splayed bristles (or a dedicated brush) you can do a bit of streaking>>98485857I wouldn't bother gloss varnishing unless you are going for a clean look
>>98485837I think it may end up being more the assembly/finishing mistakes (gaps, messy clip sites, mold lines) that will be accentuated by washes that could ruin it.
>>98485907>gap linesI had no idea how to do the sides while also painting the part underneath. The plagueburst crawler(fucking gw, just call it a death guard mortar) has a big engine part covered by the side armour that is still somehow visible, so if I used plastic cement to join the armour on top I would be in a conundrum on how to paint inside. I do see your point though.
Feels done, unsure if I want to add decals or attempt free-hand. Tamiya M113 feels like a good retro-Rogue Trader thingy.
I‘ve been working on some fantasy minis today.
Custom scum market guy from yesterday,While I was building my gunshop scum market, I decided to make a butcher/meat stall too. Obligatory Pepsi Max can roof again. Cutting up Ogryn arms and cleaning them up a bit makes for decent cuts of meat. Most of the other parts are leman russ/baneblade/other AM vehicle stuff. Bottles are some empire sprues I had lying around. Wondering if I should make another bucket and throw some nurgle/maggot stuff in it with writing saying "slop" or if that's too on the nose.
>>98486114comfy. How much is rent?
>>98486120£1750/$2250. Rates, Bills or Utilities included.No Grox allowed.No amasec, we maintain a holy temple.No ball games.
>>98486141Two thousand dollars!? Fucking extortion! God I hate this economy.
>>98486114Long term you might regret basing it on cardboard, MDF is the way to go here.
What do we think about AK-47 style wooden stock for lasguns? Trying this out for my redneck/frontier lawmen custom astra militarum regiment. I think it's quite fitting.
I am not sure if my wet palette is working well. Its just a container with some water and one of those hydrofoam pads and parchment paper with a lid. However, I will stop painting for the night and 24 hours later the paint is semi dry I guess. How much water should be in the palette? I noticed that if I put too much water, the paint sort of disperses when I put it in the palette so I don't put as much water now. However, should I just leave the palette out on my table closed? or put it in the fridge?
>>98486244What's funny about that image is that 99% of blanchitsu/grimdark paintjobs are just basecoated minis drowned in streaking grime
>>98486244Depends on a wet palette, paper used, and sponge type. If it is AK or Vallejo, or any normal wet palette, make sure the lid is firmly closed and put it to the fridge, it will stay wet overnight no problem.
>>98486244The fridge is a cool and dry place so I wouldn't put it in there as it would dry out the paint faster. Just make sure you have enough water and the lid is thightly closed.
>>98486314Stop talking nonsense, storing a closed wet palette in a fridge is a normal technique.
>>98486226It works, but think about why the other part of it would be black instead of silverIf it's phosphated/blued/treated with space goo why would the silver bits not beunless you've yet to paint those parts, in which case I don't think the muzzle of a gun is a good part to make out of wood
wip of my cawl, not sure if the robe works or if I overdid it. Any feedback is appreciated
>>98486468Looks good, however he is sideways.Is this some kind of new Cawl technology?
>>98486468Very nice, I like the purple-ish shadows on the red. It's a pretty time-consuming model to paint but I hope you'll have fun all the way through.
>>98485113you don't need a brush you can just use a wooden stick or one of those things people use to stir coffee. I think>>98484891has figured it out. I bet you are only using tiny amounts of paint because you're afraid of wasting it so you are constantly running on fumes and getting tip dry all the way inside the airbrush.>>98486226I like how it has a top folder that's designed so you can't use the sights with it folded
>>98483005I like your rust work>>98483304I use a ton of Apple Barrel. My space marines are primarilly appel barrel. >>98486361>>98486314Not a fan of the wet palette. >>98486252I can confirm
>>98485612>pro acryl is hobbyshitSo what’s the best white acrylic paint out there now to be thinned with white ink? Can this be done for yellow acrylic paint with yellow ink too?Lastly what is pro acryl’s newsh medium then if it is overpriced hobby stuff so I can have diy backups if it suddenly shuts down?
a little progress today.
>>98486314I have systema brand sandwich box for my wet palette because I was impressed how low profile that plastic box is.Is it airtight enough?Not as low profile as the Vallejo diy wet palette video’s Tupperware. That one is comically low profile to the point where I wonder if it was a custom commissioned box.>>98486252Grimdark/blanchitsu does require a bit of wash drowning.>butA lot of it is carried by conversions that make the model look weird. I think.I’ve mentioned before but grimdark and blanchitsu have been pretty well bastardized to just dunking basecoated models in washes and calling it a day. It is basically like gluing gears on something and calling it steampunk. I’m not sure what the term is for this pattern of reduction.
I got the shield mounted and finished. Hoping to be done soon.>>98486468I like the look of the highlights on the robes. Very nice.
>>98487094Screw it I’ll post the Vallejo diy wet palette tutorial.https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=QMPn5po5-m0&ra=mI’ll kneel in body and spirit to anyone who can identify this plastic box and link an aliexpress or temu store page. I just don’t know what anyone would need such a small plastic box for. I think pencil cases are bigger so those are ruled out.
>>98483670You'd be better off finding the guns you want to use for them and oyumaru mould them with sculpting putty. I recommend Empire Handgunners.
Asked a few other places and figured I’d ask here.Best magnets for minis for transporting?Not too strong to repel each other but strong enough that they stay in place please.And how are metal cake baking boxes with lids (if they come with them) stacked on each other in a doordash delivery bag?Unless there is a cheaper kind of metal something I can put magnetized minis on and then into a big food delivery bag I’d love to hear suggestions.
I started painting the abs as seen on frame left, and then I realized that I am technically speaking doing it backwards. As a test I flipped the scheme putting the brighter molteny parts in the recesses. Im looking for thoughts on the matter. Ive since looked at more examples and while the vast majority do use brights in recesses I have seen some really good ones in both styles.
I should also add that its far more work to paint the brights in the crevices, Im just trying to decide if I'll regret doing the first, before I paint any more.
>>98487073Bless you anon.
I can use any glass recipient for sprue goo right?
>>98487298weigh your minis and then use a magnet that exceeds that weight in pull force.
>>98487435Id say so long as the jar originally held liquid cement you should be good to go. You just don't want to melt the cap finding out it was a bad choice.
>>98487435Yes, but you'll probably want a lid.
>>98487298Depends on what you have. For bolt action minis or other games with flat bottom bases, peel and stick fridge-type magnets work great. Otherwise just buy yourself cobalt keep bases. If you dont want to do that, go to kjmagnetics and order a few sizes to try out; you dont want one that is too strong.
>>98487457All those kinda jar lids have a rubbery seal that will get damaged by the fumes, but its probably still ok
>>98487475It's been fine so far, but it's only been a month or so
>>98486252More like 100%. What’s even funnier is that it looks good on the tabletop.>so does thinning down black or brown enamel and wiping off the excess>so does slapchop>so does contrast slop>so does blocking in and washing in nuln oil>so does blocking in and washing with a thinned 3:1 sepia black mix>so does blocking in and washing with that marine juice bullshit>so does blocking in and washing with paynes spray, which doesn’t look any better than marine juice but predates it by 20 years and is largely agnostic to warm or cool tones>so does blocking in and dunking the whole fucking mini in literal wood stain>so does thinning down black or brown enamel and wiping off the excessPresented roughly in order of fad (re)introduction order. I can’t wait to see what’s next. >>98487071Goddamn it anon, we already told you. Golden titan buff for white priming and general work, and titanium white for doing inadvisable and stupid shit with a hard white. Don’t thin with ink. They’ll remained opaque while thinned down to airbrush viscosities. If your chosen hobby paint won’t do that, ask the manufacturer why not.
>"priming" with regular paint
>>98487730nta but titan buff is really tan I wouldn’t use it as a substitute for white
only a couple steps left now
And done. Still need to varnish it and get some better pics but I'm really happy with how it turned out.I tried to fine-tune my process overall and skip a few steps I was doing before that I was suspicious wasn't really adding much to the model vs the time it required. I cut out a warm violet that I used as a mid-highlight, it's a slight change that gives the armor a more colder feel. I'm still not 100% happy with the metal accents. But as I was painting them I kept making small changes and liked the direction it was going, so hopefully I nail it on the next model. I'm happiest the most with the white robe and I'm half tempted make the blue shade even darker. Overall still really fun to paint. The Halberd to me also came out solid. Trying to git gud with TMM has been enjoyable.
>>98484824Go all in on the theme, brother
>>98487755>contrast+>slapchop>oil wash>paint hack>hobby cheating>artist paints>telling people they don't need primer>zenithal highlight>competition painter>"grimdark style">highlighting based on a fake light source>resin pour base>brush soap>painting busts
>>98488026I still don't understand what slapchop is supposed to mean
Got some green stuff today. Looking to make a fur cloak for my Autarch.Not sure if it's actually viable, but I am trying to make a mold using the fur cloak off of a spare savage Orruk from the underworlds game. Will it work for making a fur texture after it cures?
>>98488060I could see it working yeah
>>98488026I look like that and I say things like that.
>>98488060Just sculpt it yourself, greenstuff fur is the easiest thing to make in the world
>>98488060>>98488062Oh, maybe try indenting the fur texture into a convex lump of thermoplastic/greenstuff and then use that to add fur texture?I was thinking you’d just make a 1:1 copy and then try to blend it in with more greenstuff which would obviously work
>>98487730>More like 100%. What’s even funnier is that it looks good on the tabletop.>so does thinning down black or brown enamel and wiping off the excess>so does slapchop>so does contrast slop>so does blocking in and washing in nuln oil>so does blocking in and washing with a thinned 3:1 sepia black mix>so does blocking in and washing with that marine juice bullshit>so does blocking in and washing with paynes spray, which doesn’t look any better than marine juice but predates it by 20 years and is largely agnostic to warm or cool tones>so does blocking in and dunking the whole fucking mini in literal wood stain>so does thinning down black or brown enamel and wiping off the excessImplessively delusional
>>98488062>>98488065>>98488068This is what I got going for a small test while I move paint from the citadel pots to bottles.
>>98483553don't you have temu or AliExpress in your country? or do you just like paying x3 more to (((GSW)))
>>98487275LolThey would look like ork guns, GW is way off scale for historicals, even fantasy
>>98483670Doable but harder than you think to make them look good,surely perry have handgunners
>>98485638thanks for the warning retard
>>98485658Any artists range from a good brand will be better than hobby paint
>>98486252And 99% of GW are base coat and wash
>>98487073Are they getting bigger with every model?
>>98488052it's just preshading but given a stupid name to make it more clickbaity for sloptubers
>>98488052Instead of a zenithal, you just drybrush white over black primer and then apply contrast paint. That's it.
Chay-os deathwatch KT, minus the frag cannon which I may build in the future
I don't even know how to adress this, bros...Look at this image. Now, what would you think, if I told you I needed 90 (ninety) minutes for this? The coat is brown, the skin is pink. That's it. 90 minutes.I painted it brown, first it was too runny, then it did not cover everything, then it was alright, then it started chipping away, after I went for the second coat.Jesus fucking Christ. I've been painting for a solid 2 years now. And I still feel like I don't know the basics. At first I blamed my tools (12 set of brushes for 3€ from the dollar store), but at this point I just think that I have to admit, I'm a bum.
>>98488443The paints are top-shelf, Citadel. So that's not it.
>>98488443Have you considered you should just go learn the basic and stop being retarded?
Made another board
>>98488443Post what you would consider your "best work". Some paints just don't cover well because of their translucency.
>>98488446>citadel >top shelfkekWhich specific colours were they? Citadel is notoriously inconsistent in quality from colour-to-colour. Some Citadel colours are awesome, others suck major ass.
>>98487073Incredible. >>98488159Because the anon is based.
>>98488026>oil wash bad>why>because
>>98488443If you primed black getting full coverage with pink is hard, no surprise there. Try a lighter primer, it might help getting coverage
>>98487298Thats what I do. I buy cheap neodymium magnets from Amazon and glue them to the bottom of bases. I find the 2x2mm ones better, but it depends on how deep the hollow of the base is. link to the ones I havehttps://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0D2L1WZ83/ref=sspa_mw_detail_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9kZXRhaWwPic related is a bunch of Necromunda minis. The magnets will keep them safe for transport , as long as you aren't kicking the tin around
>>98486221Problem is I have bought MDF bases before (for miniatures) and the smell is terrible.
>>98487117lmao American can't comprehend storing a small amount of food.
>>98488711are they lasercut? mdf doesn't smellyou can clean the charred border with a damp cloth
>>98483586She's built for bmc, big magenta cock
>>98484457Cool armor>>98484844Add one drop of propylene glycol to your paint and one drop alcohol and use distilled water or any bottled water, cpuld be your water is hard. If problem persists disassemble and season the metal with a fine thin coat of mineral oil or the propylene glycol from a cloth, wiped on but zero excess, that will create a barrier between paint and metal, if problem persists Disassemble and polish the needle with a silver polishing cloth and then oil again, if problem persists polish with a cream chromium oxide metal polish, then clean and oil. Its just micro texture on the surface holding the paint. Usually chrome plating prevents it but it not plated or if water is hard paint will stick so propylene glycol and alcohol improves flow, if not good enough the barriet helps, if not the extra polish helps. Metal rusts eventually so parts have to be polished occasionally, plating helps but even plating gets micro texture that needs occasional polish.
>>98485465Pyrolle orange is just an oramge shade of pyrrole red, nothing special but its strong color, any fire red flame red orange red, etc will be similar but the proacryl brand will probably have better opacity than regular miniature paints and that would be good in the case of red because pyrrole red tends to be a little transparent, if painting over black do a quick thin coat of brown first, but over white no problem anyway.
>>98485650He cute>>98485659Yeah they want extra matte finish because it photographs better, add one drop acrylic medium to palette with one drop water and run your brush through it before picking up some paint to add satin finish back into the paint if it bothers you or use less water and a more heavily loaded brush to maximize the amount of medium within their paint, but that's risky because paint can dry on brush if you don't rinse as often. Another useful chemical is glycerine or honey, either in very small amounts, like just barely on the tip on the brush before the stroke will add slight sheen to the paint. But in the long term if ultra matte vothers you avoid proacryl and brands like scale75 and warcolors or even the modern vallejos. All paints which have gel like mediums tend to dry ultra matte, these are usually polyurethane mediums that self level. Satin finishes are more common in vinyl acrylic mediums as you may find in old formula vallejos and coat darms and scale75 fantasy line and citadel, personally i like both except for black paint which i believe should be ultra matte, matte paint is created by changing the medium as i said or by increasing the amount of pigment or using a courser pigment, proacryl is a heavily loaded pigment paint so it's pretty matte, that's why i said by adding extra medium you could balance it out again, but at the cost of increasing transparency and viscosity which can make the stroke more gel like where it's transparent in the middle and opaque at the edges making it more difficultto hide brush strokes and tide marks. Professional artist here.
>>98488026>blanchitsu
>>98485773Beautiful work fren, natural palette bros unite
>>98488871Had no idea that H&S will require so much work. Anyway, had this lube I got some time ago so I applied thin amount of it and, according to instructions I found, gently wiped excess with cloth.Explanation from other anon about blowing air >>98484891 is still bugging my mind, however. I mean, I understand that air will run over internal part of the needle if cup is empty but almost every single instruction about cleaning airbrush involves blowing stuff into this cleaning container - which involves part where everything in cup is sucked out.Airbrushing is a lot harder than people usually paint it. No pun intended.
>>98485935Looks great fren maybe two decals>>98485951Good work, palette is nice and creamy>>98486114Makes me thirsty>>98486244Acrylic paint dries overnight regardless, but basically you want the sponge saturated but paper only slightly moist, if water reaches the paint it breaks down and will dry out faster so you want humid environment basically but no direct water contact unless you are adding water to the paint yourself. Most likely you can improve things by replacing the parchment paper with tracing paper because it's more porous and will allow more evaporate from the sponge to reach the paint without pooling on the surface of the paper diluting the paint too much, the cheaper tracing paper actually works better than the expensive brands. Leaving palette in fridge prevents mold for longer but doesn't change much else, it slows oxidation somewhat so that's why oil painters do it, but with acrylic won't change much except the mold. I personally don't think it's good for acrylic paint to be kept in wet palette for longer than a day anyway because of mold. If you want your paint to dry slower so you can do complicated mixes use propylene glycol instead of water on your brush when mixing the colors. It's an extender and slows drying better than water alone. If the paint bleeds too much add acrylic medium also. That will hold more water for longer acting like a chemical sponge. The wet palette extends paint drying time a little bit but acrylic dries fast anyway so don't expect miracles especially with small drops of paint like we use for minis. You'll notice the pros on you tube wate a lot of paint because they can afford it and looks better on camera but we have to save money on actual projects. A small dot dries faster so for demonstration purposes they put huge globs of paint on the palette and their brushes and don't have to rinse brushes or reload palette as often, makes a better video demonstration, but expensive and wasteful. Miniature paint expensive
>>98486468It works but you need to tie metal and ckoth together, use purple and red washes on metal to shade and reflect similar to cloth and streaks of grey on the cloth near metal to show it's receiving some reflected light from the metal and put some orange metallic highlights on the metal to make it receive the same primary light source as the cloth. This will bring thrm into harmony putting them into the same environment. Master level information though.
>>98487104Looks great fren, beautiful color, complex color shifting and nice edge highlights. Very competent >>98487382Looks right to me, as though he's warm powered from his muscles, the prominent feature. Keep going, make hus bones that cool red and muscles orangey especially if they are under tension, he shouldn't glow hot, he should smolder, he's a sexy beast
>>98488000Very nice fren, perfectly matched whites>>98488443Some browns are very transparent, umbers burnt umbers green umbers magentas crimsons etc, sienna, hematite, brick red, dark magenta etc are opaque, so don't get bummed, every paint is different, black in particular is difficult to cover quickly, don't rush it, test coverage and deal with it as it is, always smooth sttokes regardless, that's the only thing that matters, not speed, not time, bot life, not your eife, not your children, dog, society, or money, job, or the fact you haven't eaten in a week, only smooth strokes, ahh yes, those smooth soothing strokes
>>98488982Considering the formatting, it's safe to assume that it is a post from professional fartist schizo and you can safely ignore it, because most of the stuff he posts is a nonsense garbage. I can already tell you that any "advice" working with polishing the needle is a meme. Ditto the glycol/alcohol, that's just thinner/flow improver lmao. Airbrushing is not a lot harder, anon. Don't take me wrong, but I've been reading your complaining for half a year now, and I sincerely have no clue what the fuck are you doing. Don't use water for thinning, work with airbrush as if it was a wet medium - don't leave paint in your cup if you are not using it, keep the tip clean, and you shouldn't struggle. >but almost every single instruction about cleaning airbrush involves blowing stuff into this cleaning containerIgnore everything else, do this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0A1SeL6BRq0
>>98488026>highlighting based on a fake light sourceAs opposed to what?
>>98489147Yes it's flow improver but cheaper than you can buy it and you can adjust the ratio yourself and avoid strange chemicals if you make it yourself. I'm sorry i know so much. It must be a burden being another eay though and I'd never trade places with you.
>>98488026good bait, mixed some legit stuff with meme garbage
>>98488000said it before, ill say it againpurple is the best sisters color. the fade down on the shield is wonderful
>>98487439Most of my minis are plastic or resin and I want to sell off the metal ones so I’m unsure what magnets are enough. I know I can place more so I don’t want the little mags comically strong.>>98487469The bases are gw style.Wish I got cobalt keep but I got bulk loads from aliexpress for cheap.Do I have to eyeball the center of the bases.>>98488681Very nice and thanks anon!>that Amazon linkDo you know what grade these are I’ve seen n30 to n40. I just want to know so if that Amazon seller disappears I can get replacements of the same quality hopefully from the same factory in China.I doubt checked the link and didn’t see any n(number) grading them sorry if I missed it.
>>98488732Worse. Canadian but pretty much same deal.I thought of those bacon boxes but I can’t be sure. Maybe peas? I can only guess. My first thought was jewelry beads (not for eating) but the airtight means it might be for food.
/tg/ proves once again that the airbrush is the ultimate filter...or that the average fa/tg/uy is just a bit slow.I don't understand how people can struggle so much with such a simple device.But a piece of actual advice, more doing less theorising and listening to advice from random retards, "professional" or not.That applies to airbrushes and painting. Especially the dude who's never painted but is worried about his orange being the wrong shade or too low vibrancy. it's just tragic.
>>98487730Thank you for reminding me. I asked because I have bad memory and forget what I want to remember.Has anybody figured out what pro acryl’s newsh is? I asked on chatgpt but I don’t trust it for this sort of thing.>>98487730I use marine juice and I feel called out.I am bigly hurt.What is bad about marine juice anyways? Seems pretty good to me. I use the reikland+dark tone and lahmian medium mix. I’m unsure whether warhammer autists have figured out what exactly lahmian medium is in ingredients and proportions. For me I was more interested in p3’s mixing medium that seemed to turn acrylic inks into a wash with a few drops.If your frustration is towards people who just basecoat+wash the models and think they’re da Vinci of minis then I can understand.
>>98489373The airbrush is the ultimate filter.It sure has filtered me.I spend more time cleaning than spraying.I was able to prime black a few times but when I tried white primer I failed so I spend loads of time researching the airbrush and then I realize I left it dirty for a while.At best I am a slow learner. But race for Terra’s video of some Chinese airbrushes being operated just fine by children hurt me. Because even kids can airbrush properly. I think he is sponsored by the airbrush makers though. But that advertising still carried a spiritual punch that got me.
More work on the hell knightTrying to give for a soothing covered base of the sword to add interest
>>98489394>race for Terra’sIs a Gaahleri shill. I like his actual content, but don't fall for it. Gaahleri in general is probably the #1 chink brand when it comes to shilling, and while their airbrushes are not bad per se, they are still just that, cheap chinkbrushes. That said, I still have no clue what are you fucking up, anon. Learning airbrushing IS easy and simple, it's the definition of easy to learn & hard to master.
And more work in the shield
Anyone tried this Chinesium contrast paint yet?
>>98489422What I fuck up is clogging bubbling and the sputtering and spider webbing.I think I need to adjust air pressure. I need to clean my airbrush but I procrastinate on that a lot because I always have shit to do in the way. How’s iwata’s neo brushes? All of them if it really is my cheap brush?
>>98489470what do you think this one is offering over already existing lines?What are you looking for in your contrast paints that's missing?
>>98489470You retards just can't learn.
>>98489512Cause it's cheap. Two bucks for an 18 ml bottle is pretty tempting
>>98489539ray studio shit tends to be finegive it a buy and tell us
>>98489422I think their airbrushes that look like handguns look easier to use. Then again I only want to prime and varnish. Maybe basecoat but I don’t want to get into the airbrush osl overdone meme. What company makes better airbrushes shaped like those? If the traditional styled ones are better then I still hope gaahleri does well and innovates the handgun style airbrush to be just as good to the point where it is just preference in difference as quality is excellent. Like m1911 handguns and beretta handguns are so good it is just preference but for miniature painting airbrushes.
Should have painted them entirely grey including the recess wash and then based them. That would have been funnier.
>>98489422>the brushes are badUh oh…I have the ghad 68. I’ll try to make it work and then upgrade it to a proper airbrush when I stop being poor and it will be like finishing a vidya on max difficultly and then replaying the campaign on easy mode but for airbrush maintenance and usage I hope.
>>98489592You might want to get a PS290.
>>98489649Or a PS291.
>>98489668>>98489649Or a PS275.
>>98489649>>98489668>>98489673What? the PS270 is the best mid tier brush for miniature
>>98489649>>98489668>>98489673>>98489681Or you could just get HS Evolution which outperforms them all and be done with it.
>>98489681While I do agree with you, anon was specifically asking about trigger-type airbrushes.
>>98489689And it's also twice the price of the PS270
>>98489689I was thinking of those but I already got a gaahleri airbrush (not from a mini shill funnily enough I think) so I am feeling it not good but that’s probably mostly my incompetence with airbrushes and procrastination on sitting down and using them. The iwata neo equivalent is still good right? I’m not sure about h&s brushes because they got bought by iwata I think so I am nervous if they lost their German engineering meme quality in a good way thing. I mean an anon showing me a 1930s era one still working fine impressed me a lot. Or was it 40s? Still impress either way.
>>98489702Nearly triple if you know you can buy mr hobby airbrushes from amazon japan for a cheaper price
>>98489415He cute
>>98489702>>98489713You can do everything with it, from basecoating to hairthin spraying. It will last you a lifetime. Neither of which is guaranteed with airbrushes you posted.
>>98489723You clearly don't own a PS270.
>He bought a $300 airbrush for spraying toy soldiers lmao.
>>98489712>The iwata neo equivalent is still good right?noit's still a bottom tier chinesium airbrush with iwata logo slapped on
>>98489713>you can buy Japanese airbrushes for cheaper from Amazon JapanEven with shipping for Canada taken into consideration? I think I’m feeling a kind of brand of buyer’s remorse right now if true.
>>98489728>he spends hundreds of dollars every year on plastic toy soldiers
>>98489727Nta but do you so your opinion holds more legitimacy? I am not trying to be malicious I am curious about those airbrushes to replace my cheap Chinese surplus one if it really is bad for my basic intended uses.
>>98489731>shipping for canadaShipping can spike the price sometimes. Don't forget to shop around and check your local Amazon prices too (I've noticed the best prices for Mr Hobby are always on Amazon for some reason).I'm from Aus, and I've seen anything from 15AUD to 90AUD in shipping for airbrushes. IIRC AUD is roughly equal to CAD rn.
>>98489712>I’m not sure about h&s brushes because they got bought by iwata I think so I am nervous if they lost their German engineering meme qualityStop being silly. If anything, HS improved plenty since Iwata took them under their wings. >>98489744If you are looking for ONE airbrush to own, it's HS Evolution 2024 2in1. It's great for detail stuff, too, coming fairly close to Micron, which is like three time the price.
>>98489744PS270 is great. Sprays smooth, good tolerances, easy to dissassemble. It is the most solid, best value-for-money midrange airbrush you can get.Same extends to most of the Mr.Hobby range, but the PS270 has the best combination of features for my usecase. If you want a trigger-type brush, go with a PS275. Also don't forget to shop around and check Amazon.
>>98489702you can also just use your fingers instead of brushes and a straw to blow some paint on the miniatures, which saves a lot of money.
>>98489147>I sincerely have no clue what the fuck are you doing.The problem is that I apparently don't know either. Like this video you show - I did the exactly same procedure he shows with color change, he shows his gear and says "it's clean" while I look at mine and say "it's definitely not clean". Funny enough, when I took airbrush to one of local scale modellers (he had a shop and was very friendly, it was his idea to bring my airbrush for quick test), he tried it out with one paint, did quick cleaning, was definitely spraying clean but when I got back home, it still required cleaning of the needle and nozzle. It's almost like way back at uni, where nobody, including professor, had no idea why same exercise at chem lab ends up giving different results for me than anybody else. It's just like that.Oh and I forgot to attach pic of lube in question.
>>98489769So, you don't own one?
>>98489723The PS270 isn't some cheap chinesium. That shit is durable, solvent resistant, and all that crap.
>>98489786>>98489776
>>98489634I mean - that would make them 1% more grey than they already are.
>>98489762Alright I’ll use and abuse the brush I have with honest effort to use it right and maintain it then look at the HS evolution. Unless something somehow happens badly to iwata like the Vallejo reformulation being bad but for airbrush quality and I’ll then look at the other airbrushes mentioned here.>>98489746I thought it was too good to be true. But then again I am a penny pincher at the worst times so if I save like 10-20 Canadian dummy funny money then I’ll consider that worth it as the saved money can go for something else that is also useless.>Aussie dollar and leaf dollar are both terribleWe can suffer together anon.
Tbqh I own a ps267 (which is supposedly the same as ps270 but without the MAC valve) and a h&s ultra 2024 and I prefer the ultra between the two, although I dislike the cup design on it compared to the procon boy
>>98489776What gave you that impression.
>>98489769Thank you for showing that you own one and thank you for keeping Japan’s economy afloat so I can get more tomboy hentai.I’ll check if the scale model shop has the airbrushes as they sell tamiya and mr.hobby stuff. Maybe airbrushes aren’t as popular as we think in the hobby community from minis to trains and historicals so it will be on sale in my hopes and dreams sales wise.
>>98489789I have the PS270 and Ustar 130 and they are pretty good
>>98489806Airbrushing is extremely common with pretty much every type of scale modelling. If anything, minipainting haven't fully caught up yet.
>>98489731not sure about canada but that was at least true for europe, check that it has the amazon global shipping and what you see on amazon it's the final price, no extra taxes or customsi got it a couple years ago for ~90€
Since we have airbrush discussion - what about the needle size? Mentioned H&S Evolution can be shipped with 0.28mm nozzle or 0.45mm one. Is there any glaring problem with trying to paint with 0.45mm? I assume it would clog less.
>>98489817bigger nozzle -> bigger paint cone, if you only want it to prime, basecoat and varnish, sure go with the big one
>>98489817You generally want both. Larger one for priming, basecoating, varnishing, and smaller one for detail spraying. It's why HS sells their top shit in 2in1 versions.
>>98489817comparing needle sizes between different manufacturers and models makes as much sense as comparing brush size numbers.
>>98489833Not really. 0.4mm is 0.4mm. Unless we are talking about some abhorrent chinkshit that can't even keep their tolerances remotely right.
>>98487766Try it.>>98488076Damn. Way to out yourself as a newfag, my nogamez friend.
>>98489824You'd be wasting a lot of paint with a larger nozzle, my brush has a .2mm nozzle and it is more than capable of covering one whole side of a mini in a single circular motion. Of course you need more movement when you get to larger models, but you shouldn't need to step up to a .45 or higher unless you're painting something like a titan. I'd recommend a 0.2-0.4 nozzle, personally.
>>98489841you paint dogshit models and then pretend like they are fine from 5ft away (they aren't)
>>98489842There are plenty of things that are better sprayed through larger nozzles. Primers, varnishes, etc. More serious manufacturers, like VMS, will even directly tell you to use 0.3mm+ nozzle with some of their stuff.
>>98489835Yes really. H&S say so themselves. Their 2024 models spray similarly to earlier much smaller nozzles. I.e. nozzle size is irrelevant to the performance of the airbrush unless you're specifically comparing the same airbrush with two different nozzles.It has fuckall to do with tolerances or chinkshit.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s1IRJHk7ago&t=119s
>>98489841I have lol why the fuck would I say that without having actually used the paint before? Do you even own any?
>>98489376>What is bad about marine juiceNothing. It’s fine. It isn’t really any better than some of the things that preceded it but it’s not any worse either. Keep using it, although it’s probably a good idea to have both the warm and cool variants, not just one or the other. An earlier version of the same thing from 15 years ago was washing with paynes gray, which did the same thing except that it looked great on basically everything except for certain yellows. The point that I was trying to make is that every couple of years something new (or usually old) makes the rounds as the next best thing, but it doesn’t invalidate last years fad.>>98489394What brush? Have you tried prethinned paint?
>>98489854This is true for larger model kits (wargame vehicles, large historicals, gunpla, etc), but 0.2 is more than good enough for doing 28-32mm models. Though like I said, I'd suggest getting anywhere between 0.2-0.4mm. But I wouldn't suggest getting anything larger if you mainly want to use it to paint minis. I like to use 0.2mm for my main brush because it can also easily be tuned to do both finer details and whole 32mm models. For vehicles I'd use something larger, but I mostly paint display models and models for skirmish games.
>>98489906>Have you tried wasting all your money?Prethinned paint is a trick by hobby companies to sell you less paint for more money.
>>98489921>the goyim knowshut it down!!!!
>>98489804The PS270 is good but i still don't understand what is the point of that crown (?) needle cap?
>>98489921in my humble opinion, its always worth buying at least one bottle of prethinned air paintlets you know what consistency you're looking for and practice the air brush with good thinned paint
>>98489948>what is the point of that crownbecause it is the king of airbrushes
>>98485889ur rhino looks fine dude
>>98488371very cool! what legion/warband?
>>98489775For lube just use mineral oil or baby oil, same thing, it's cheap
>>98490425How do you get them so smooth..
>>98489849I paint and game. I suspect that you do neither.>>98489873>why the fuck would I say that without having actually used the paint before?Why do people that have never used a product think that their opinion of that product is useful? Why do people that don’t game hang out on a gaming board? I have no idea. It honestly confuses me.>Do you even own any?It’s my go to primer if I’m contrast slopping. As a white, try applying it and then building up highlights. For most people this works better than starting with a white and trying to shade it. Why would I suggest something that I don’t use and like?>>98489921This >>98489950. It’s also useful for someone new to airbrushing to troubleshoot an airbrush, as you can rule out the paint as being the problem. Good shitpost though.
>>98488982air doesn't run over the needle except at the tip unless you have it blocked intentionally to backflow. if you are doing that to clean the airbrush the cup should be full of cleaner, not dry paint.>>98489492if you aren't cleaning your airbrush every time you use it you are fucking up. it's like using a cast iron frying pan. clean it before putting it away and you won't have any problems.
>>98490510Silicon tools, an airbrush needle and a brush. If you can get the section in one pass you won't have to blend, just get the general shape and then smooth. It's a little easier I think.
>>98489376Never used it but my guess is acrylic medium, propylene glycol, gum arabic, polyurethane, perhaps glycerine.
>>98490425>>98487073Jokes aside, this is some really nice, smooth sculpting!>>98488000Fantastic work, I'm a big fan of your scheme. The white cloth looks super smooth, I really like how you painted the blueish shadows.>>98487933Very clean, good job so far!>>98486468I think the robe works, the purple-ish shadows look great and the sharp highlights contrast them nicely. >>98485951Nice work, I like the colors you went with.>>98485889I like this though, it has a nice grimy feel to it. If that's what you were going for you I think you got it right.
>>98490589>slapchop piggieI see. So you’re retarded then. Carry on.
>>98490510I'm not >>98490699, but to add to what he said, putty consistency and curing time also have an effect. Smoothing is easier after the putty has had some time to cure because you won't deform the entire shape if you apply more pressure. I find using something other than just water to lubricate the tools helps too, e.g. vallejo airbrush flow improver, vaseline, or spit if you have neither.
>>98490425original comparison?
>>98490948None assembled or painted, no.
>pro acryl has better pigments, mixing balls, dropper bottle AND have more paintwhy would you buy citadel at this point for like 90% of use cases
>>98491096PA droppers are awful thoughever
>>98491096AK is just like that, but without the retarded PA droppers. And they don't even need mixing balls.
>>98491114AK sucks thoughbeit
>>98491134I'll take "Things said by no one ever" for 500, John.
>>98491143okay spaniard whatever you say, not gonna let you circlejerk shitpost over your chosen brand of shilling for the day
>>98491149okay american whatever you say, not gonna let you circlejerk shitpost over your chosen brand of shilling for the day
>>98491149>>98491154how about you both shut the fuck up
>>98491114>And they don't even need mixing balls.no paint NEEDS agitators retard, it just makes mixing faster when shaking
>>98483928It is slight different but citadel/warhammer "base color", can be used as primers.
>>98490425Unbelievable based
>>98483928Priming paints tend to be a little more sticky containing a little glue and chalk, but base paints are similar and can be used when primer isn't available. Here's a tutorial for brush priming. Second video. http://embscomputerart.com/miniature-painting-instructional-videos/
>>98491143nta but I've tried 18 AKI paints, primarily oranges and reds and browns and a couple green/blues, and have never liked any of them enough to use them over the other brands I have
>>98491276Brick Red, Wine Red, and Carmine are probably my favorite reds ever made. Love the greens and browns, especially in AFV range, also imo no competition, especially for more realistic shades. No clue about blues, though.
>>98491305brick red I've tried and didn't like how it applied, also have burn orange and matt red and same dealI found most of the browns I used to had poor coverage compared to the army painter/citadel/pro acryl browns I've tried so I shelved them as well
>>98491345I'll give you PA browns, these are usually really good. Their darker greens are also great. But AP browns are desaturated dogshit, especially darker ones which are barely usable. No, let me correct that, painting with actual dogshit might produce better browns.
>>98490827Your seething is understandable. Being reduced to posting on a gaming board as a nogamez has got to suck. I suppose you can keep trying to get validation here but it won’t ever be the same as actual human interaction.
>>98491410nta but shut the fuck up, craftsperg. Your mediocre paintjobs look like shit even on a gaming table no matter how many copes you come up with
Primed it white. I'll try to get more contrast in the skin this time
Resumed working on these after my return from vacation. Skin is still too uneven, but it's just one layer of flesh color over brown. Will try to make it sicklier later.
>>98490622But I'm referring to situation when flushing empty the cup out of cleaner and airbrush sucks out whatever liquid took its place, in this case air.
>>98490699>airbrush needle and a brushWait what?
>>98491487>dump old paint out of cup>fill with cleaner>backflow air>dump out>fill with more cleaner>spray until it looks clear>dump outat no point should you have paint drying in an empty cup or air blowing through it with nothing in it.
>>98491702An airbrush needle, for making really fine lines, and a brush for shaping when it's soft.
>>98491702>>98491746you can also use a needle in a mechanical pencil
Decided to try painting some NMM for the first timeLooks rubbish, going to have to do some real practice.
>>98488159Nuki nuki zupposism when?
>>98491832Pics or it didn't happen.
>>98491846>not believing me
>>98491846
>>98492044Looks good, scary dude
Slowly getting the hang of painting faces. Those Astra Militarum heads are so tiny. Here's my latest.
>>98492473Ah yes, pushing a crap out so hard you end up cross-eyed.
>>98491746>>98491798Oh, like that. I just use an actual needle.
What do we think of this here islamic wench, chat? (She's basically an objective marker for infinity)
back to painting skeletons
>>98492473looking good anon keep it up>>98492438post what u did so far with that customisations
They call them "psychic familiars" but I personally believe that's just an acolyte apprenticeship program.
>>98490425ur gonna paint her black right?
>>98492674>islamic>wench wat.jpg
>>98492438is this a one off or are you doing this to the whole unit?
>>98493461nta It's definitely not a one-off, he's already made a couple others.
>>98493461Just the front rank, not the whole mf unit. This is #7
>>98493705>not the whole mf unit:( boooooo..Lovely work as always
My first greenstuff project. I didn't go too ambitious, but I like the result.
>>98493847Clean work right there
Getting started a little earlier than usual this thread.>New thread:>>98493914>>98493914>>98493914
>>98488000Fuck I wish my sisters looked that good
>>98483461He genuinely is. But the swap would be too much effort for the average painter that just wants models on the table and thats okay too.But using Schmincke and Golden Golden Liquid w. a mix of Satin and Matte medium to thin them out is really good if you want to paint display level minis.Or hell, oils too.But it's one of those " What conversation are we actually having"
>>98493705please post a group pic
