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Work in Progress, "Trenches for Crusading" Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin:
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno [Embed]

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>"Not yet, old man!"
aHR0cHM6Ly9nb2ZpbGUuaW8vZC93QkRJOGU=

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

Previous threads:
>>94784370
>>94765071
>>94744993
>>94729769
>>
WIP Secret Santa archives

>2024
https://imgur.com/a/g7MfJE5
>2023
https://imgur.com/a/e9QOmJJ
>2022
https://imgur.com/a/2OWxHpg
>2021
https://imgur.com/a/TKfeLxU
>2020
https://imgur.com/a/TeduVrJ
>2019
[REDACTED]
>2018
https://imgur.com/a/UWRYKEq
>2017
https://imgur.com/a/qS7PH
>2016
https://imgur.com/a/1fxhq
>>
Migrating my question

Anyone have experience with stone textured spray paint that can recommend one for grey stone?
I went to my Home Depot and they didn't have grey, just sand and brick colors
>>
>>94799336
textured spray paint as in texture straight from the bottle, i had no idea such a thing even existed and it would be pretty revolutionary
>>
>>94799336
yes I have experience with them.

if they don't have the colour you want, may I suggest you paint it so that it is a different colour? I don't understand what your question is. They look like shit straight from the bottle, imo.
>>
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Hacker for Stargrave. As I used a head from an AoS Darkoath model and needed to greenstuff a neck. I had intended for this model to be female, but I ended up using a male torso. To confound this, a slightly undercooked zenithal undercoat gave "her" a heavy dose of stubble. You live and learn. Before you insert a I picked up a dozen heads from the Darkoath range and really rate them - lots of crisp features and slightly demented expressions.
>>
>>94799304
they are already primed black and I don't have white primer
>>
Side question - how long green stuff and Milliput really cures? I mean, I consequently get the problem with parts breaking or separating at mold line when I try to drill them. I leave them overnight in mold, take apart at the morning and work on them when I get back from work at evening so it should be nearly 24h. But when I drill, it looks like as if it is still curing.

>>94799306
So, apparently there was some air, maybe still present water drops (somehow) when I pressed it. That's a problem since I don't know how I could let the potential air bubbles escape with blue stuff.
>>
>>94799587
strip them and get a white primer would be my advice
you had good practice run with the black ones
good luck anon
>>
>>94799587
might be able to zenithal drybrush a brighter color on to mimic a brighter primer. bright colors have a hard time covering black, could try going from a darker green or yellow first and then the brighter ones on top. dunno how that will affect your neon scheme but that's just how it is.
>>
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>>94799354
Not sure if this is sarcastic or not
>>94799456
I think we're talking about different things because it's a can not a bottle
>>
>>94799604
greenstuff is way softer cured than milliput is, so greenstuff will still seem kind of soft when you try to drill or sand it. Maybe that's it? Milliput should be like rock hard after 6 hours or so, and definitely after 24.
>>
>>94799380
That's great information. If it doesn't bother you, would you mind sharing a photo of them?
>>
My board made thread image, i am honored
>>
>>94799663
i had no idea such a spray existed and it even says it wont melt foam
you must have a huge project underway if plaster or elmers and sand is not fast enough
i learned something new today
>>
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>>94799775
it's a very nice feel
>mfw 2 of my wips made the thread banner
>>
>>94799778
Making a castle for Old World
>>
>>94799663
this is literally the exact product I've used in the past. It has a very specific look & texture, neither of which are very good imo. You will need to do something to it after its sprayed on for it to be decent. It comes out looking like what is on that can's cap, so if that's what you want... shrug?

I would rather use dirt/sand + PVA + some paint. Because either way I would still want to use a basecoat/wash & then drybrushing, and with dirt/sand I can control the thickness easier & the texture is less uniform.

>>94799604
Are they in a cold or damp room? If they seem like they're uncured, I'd lean towards them still needing drying time. Bigger objects will take longer, obviously. I put my pieces on one of those desk coffee mug warmers and then into a (food) dehydrator.

>blue stuff
In general I've been unimpressed by this stuff when I've used it in the past. Mostly due to the cost & quantity. I've had the best luck with a yellow a 2 part epoxy thing I get off Amazon. This next part is gonna sound stupid, but you can use a silicone 1 or 2 caulking (the one that's 100% silicone) with cornstarch. You could probably find a tutorial for that better than I can explain it here... Wear gloves.

... I've also been know to use use epoxy glue and repeatedly paint it over something to make a mold.

>how I could let the potential air bubbles escape with blue stuff.
Press it to the bottom of your mold first and then gently and gradually work it upwards. There is a trick to it.
>>
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Think he's done
Will figure out how to base him
>>
>>94799775
>>94799825
You ladz put on some wonderful projects. That's an essential part of what makes WIP the comfiest thread on /tg/. It's only right that they should end up in the OP banner.

Besides, Johnny shows up plenty of other places. He doesn't have to be in the OP *that* often.
>>
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>>94799825
>tfw comments on 1 of last 4 pics posted
guess that means its decent lol
>>
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>>94799921
The issue I have with this paintjob is that you're clearly still learning, and you've done the basics well enough. I don't want to criticize you because I don't want to demotivate you, and you also haven't been asking any specific questions.

You did well enough. If that's what you want your little rat to look like, then congrats! You did it! Otherwise, I dunno what to say.
>>
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>>94799314
Started working on another bladeguard. Not going with a white helmet for this lad
>>
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>>94800075
your BTs are always a treat
>>
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Any sort of Nurgle iconography I can freehand on this kneepad other than the classic symbol?
>>
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work in progress after a long long hiatus. my old brushes are in much worse shape than I remember
>>
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Not much progress today but I'll share anyway. Hope I'm not cluttering the thread too much.
>>94800075
>>94800119
can't help with the Nurgle icon but I really like the marines you two paint
>>
>>94800217
Never clutter the miniature thread with miniatures ever again or we'll collectively tear you a new one.
>>
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Got one of these resin bricks as a Christmas present for myself. I've never built a resin model of this size, so I'm wondering if super glue is good enough or if I should get better adhesive for it?
>>
>>94800259
Super glue is fine. Consider pinning points where you think it might need the extra reinforcement.
>>
>>94799913
I'm not sure about silicone thing. It is quite costly (equivalent of around 30€ for 1kg) and I don't have compressor or other tools for making vacuum chamber, which is obligatory for avoiding bubbles. Plus, no workshop, just my room.

>>94799664
Well, I mix the two in 50-50 proportions. Maybe that's just my imagination. But when I drill, it seems to stick to drill itself so maybe I should give it more than one day.
>>
>>94800267
Wonderful, I should have enough superglue and will have my drill on-hand in case it comes up. Thank you anon.
>>
>>94800064
If you have any thoughts knocking around I'd love to hear it
If picrel is pointing out the contrast then I'm already aware, the scheme is a reference to something and I was definitely aware that most of the colors were bright and are indeed difficult to tell apart (white or fur or skin vs bone or teeth)
I also probably should have worked inside out too, I started with the armor because I wanted to figure out the blue quickly and then realized that was dumb given I was also making the cloth white and could have used that room for error
>>
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Almost done. Engine exhausts, tailwheel, underwing instruments, wing mounted gunbarrels and radiowiring. Not too happy about the canopymid section , but it is the best I could do with the oddly warped clear part that came with the kit. Also the radiomast strictly speaking needs replacing because the top 1mm snapped of (snapped in the box already), but I might just leave that as is as you can hardly tell at this scale and if I replace it would have to be a metal part.
>>
Has anyone tried using light adhesive tape (aka not-skotch, but the shitty see-through kind) to cover up details before going to town with a more reckless paintjob? I discovered that a drybrush would do wonders for the belts of my minis, but they are already finished and a drybrush fuck them up real good around the belt and require exrensive fixing. Is tape a solution to leave only the belt exposed?
>>
>>94800109
>>94800217
Much appreciated boys

>>94800119
Can't go wrong with a big ol fly or maggot. You can look at death guard warbands for inspo as well.
>>
>>94800119
A seven
>>
>>94800320
Use masking tape, the clear sticky tape has a good chance of leaving its sticky chemicals behind as residue. Not to be a shill, but tamiya masking tape is excellent, it is inexpensive and comes in a variety of widths. It has never leaked on me and I get clean borders everytime. It also has never ruined an underlying paintjob or decal works. The only thing I am careful with is to not tape it over NAKED, i.e. unvarnished, decals.
>>
>>94800315
Nice, not much else to input other than that. I've never managed to get these small scales to look this good.
Is that oil or pigment you used to weather?
>>
>>94800315
>red band
>blotted out swastika
Is this a Russian captured/repurposed plane?
>>
>>94800372
Thx, it's all oils. Not the best job ever, but I had less than a thimble worth of spirits left and I wanted to get the oil part done today, so it was done quick and dirty.

>>94800401
No, the crosses wouldn't have been on it in that case. The red band was ordered as a mark of shame because squadron leader had a Jewish wife, swastika was painted over by remaining crew in protest after said leader was forced to leave (at least that is how I was told the story).
>>
>>94800401
Fucking /pol/ in da house, noticing the 10 pixels worth of missing swastika, absolute topkek.
>>
>>94800315
Man, the view straight ahead must have sucked a grand titty. How did they not feel claustrophobic as fuck with a canopy like that. How do you even land? You can't see shit out if the sides either with that configuration, all you see is your own wings.
>>
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>>94800309
With each of your colours, regardless of them being white / light blue, should go from a very low value to the value you want to a highlight. You gotta build up that shadow.

imo at least. this what my mini look like before I start painting. thinking... green metallic armour and maybe bright pinks & dark purples?
>>
>>94800446
Anon I think swastikas are quite common on german scale models
>>
>>94800434
That's pretty cool that you went with a historic design, like with an actual background rather than simply being vaguely historically correct.
>>94800446
I mean, it's an unusual scheme I'd not seen before. It's not exactly the iconic yellow nosed green bodied Messerschmitt decorated with a prominent swastika on the tail. So ya, I noticed.
>>
its my birthday today
yet another year spent sharing silly little models and hobby projects with you anons
i love this hobby
>>
>>94800568
Happy birthday anon! Glad to be in your parasocial family.
>>
>>94800568
happy birthday
>>
>>94800504
I see what you mean. I was trying to use respectively colored washes with ink/speedpaints to achieve the shadows and volumes, I haven't really tried layering or anything since in my mind I'd just be painting over the entire section each time. I have a couple more basic space marines I'm putting together before I get into painting the kill teams I got, I can try learning on those.
>>
>>94800499
It's like landing any other plane: angle yourself according to landing gear design and then use your panel instruments to reduce altitude carefully. Landing sucks, man.
>>
>>94800568
Happy b-day, anon!
>>
Does anyone know any good varnishes and rattle can primers? I need both a gloss can for protection and a matte can for overcoat, as well as black and white rattle cans.
>>
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>>94800568
Happy Birthday, Anon
>>94800793
I like Krylon, it's cheap
>>
>>94799314
I feel like a board designed like this would have some gameplay issues and favour the melee factions in TC more.
>>
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>>94800568
Happy Birthday Anon! Hope you get a sloppy blowjob and a nice day!
>>
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>>94800943

Dunno never played it. I mostly just hobby craft.

Imma mix up joint compound, modge podge, sand, gravel, raw umber paint and thin with water. Gonna be the mud next...
>>
>>94801305
>I mostly just hobby craft.
Pure soul
Hobbying for the sake of hobbying
>>
I dunno what I'm doing but I'm gonna keep doing it.
>>
>>94801305
I mean it definitely looks good which I think will go further with the game experience than map balance anyway. I'd much rather play on that than a blank table with some blocks and objects placed around.
>>
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I call it finished. Do you like it?
Keep in mind, this is zoomed in quite a bit.
>>
>>94801352
That's the spirit
>>
>>94801569
Yeah, I wouldn't normally like a heavy wash, but it works for a well used vehicle like that. Especially on that tarp. Front bags and stuff still looking a bit to wet for my liking, but that might actually still be wet.
>>
I bought this airbrush kit on Amazon today. It comes with one gravity fed and two siphon airbrushes. Will be my first time airbrushing, planning to mainly use the gravity fed brush but am I okay to use the siphon feds for stuff like priming? I've heard they're not good for minis but I can't see why it would be bad for just priming.
>>
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>>94801639
that's the spirits

>>94801569
yes. toot toot

>>94800568
I hope you have icecream
>>
>>94801797
I don't see why they wouldn't be fine for priming, yeah. Except I don't see myself disconnecting and reconnecting my air line to a brush just to prime. Changing paints doesn't take that long, and you'd still have to clean the brush after use, just not the jar.
>>
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This fucker was so fiddly to assemble
>>
>finally opening necron kill team
>each model has two variants
>calmly put everything back and stare at the wall
Maybe tomorrow night. This is way too stressful.
>>
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>>94801569
Now on to the next project
>>
>>94802041
make the space marines kiss pls
>>
>>94801797
Siphon feeds dont really work well for us since you need to mix up a large enough batch of paint for it to siphon up. End up needing to mix a lot more and wasting it. The other master is a little workhorse and should be a fine learning airbrush. Wince your compressor doesn't have a tank be sure to keep an eye on it overheating and give it breaks to cool down.
>>
How the FUCK do I get rid of mould lines? Should I just buy some $10 piece of shit fancy mould line remover
>>
>>94802017
Can always ask /ktg/ what weapons play well. Or the tried and true method of whatever looks cooler.
>>
>>94802061
try the back of the hobby knife blade if it isn't sharp.
I used a shit fancy mould line remover before I could trust myself to remove mouldlines with a hobby knife.
Now I passed it on to a friend who at the time was getting into the hobby, and now he is planning on passing the mouldline remover on to another friend who is getting into the miniature painting hobby.
>>
>>94802061
>back of a hobby knife or a dull blade. I run a blade along a piece of 2x4 20 or 30 times to dull it down for scraping
>sanding sticks or regular sandpaper pieces folded for firmness
>if plastic use plastic cement to smooth out scraped areas, knuckles, etc.

4hsxt
>>
>>94802061
I just use my knife until it's smooth enough then go over it with plastic cement. I think my knife was dull to begin with or I'd have a couple cuts on my fingertips by now
>>
>>94802074
>>94802086
>>94802169
Will do. Thank you anons
>>
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Been trying to make sprue goo and it's not working well as I thought
Do I really need to get the tamiya extra thin cement for it to be gooey?
>>
>>94802215
You gotta leave it for a while. Leave it overnight and then stir it up with a stick. I don't see why mr.cement wouldn't work. Also, probably do want to err on the side of it being on the liquid side, it starts to solidify pretty quick and you want it to actually flow and go where you want it to rather than it globbing on things. But you can worry about the consistency after it is melted.
>>
>>94802215
Are you trying to pour it out on something? I'm pretty sure you just dump some cut up sprue up to the same level as the cement
>>
>>94802215
>Open air sprue goo
I'm almost certain you have to seal it in a jar or bottle. Even if it works just on a tray, the fumes of plastic melting in glue cannot be healthy.
>>
>>94802215
If you're just want to fill small gap then UV resin is easier to work with. This shit is literal Green stuff world UV resin but way more cheaper and bigger, fuck hobby tax
>>
>>94802215
That Mr. Hobby cement is a mixture of MEK and ethyl acetate, while Tamiya extra thin is acetone and butyl acetate. They're similar, but not quite the same.
>>
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need an assassin for adepticon and had this old guy missing his rifle. WIP replacement
>>
>>94802434
Nice. I needed a mini to paint for GD and ordered one that won't be here till mid February because I'm a retard.
>>
Wait, you're supposed to use a dull knife to remove mold lines?
Ive just been using the sharp edge of my hobby knife.
>>
>>94802452
I just lick them a lot
>>
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>>94802449
that sucks. maybe do a test scheme on a cheapie?

I'm running imperial agents with 3 of my buds in the team tourney
>>
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>>94802452
I use pic related
>>
>>94802452
>Wait, you're supposed to use a dull knife to remove mold lines?
No? What the hell are you talking about?
>>
>>94802503
haha...
>>
>>94802503
Is this the most overpriced useless hobby equipment ever made?
>>
>>94802522
goofs aside, I actually do like the letter opener because of its heavier "blade" and curved edge, but the back of the knife is still used for tight spots and detailed areas. At it's original price of 18 USD was it good value? no, but I like it

>>94802538
no, version 2 of that tool is, because it takes away the two good things about that tool and gives a thin flexible piece of useless steel in a flimsy plastic handle that inexplicably costs even more
>>
>>94802538
>Is this the most overpriced useless hobby equipment ever made?
... says the anon who doesn't have a bitz cabinet full of metal models from the 80's and 90's.

Seriously, though, it's gotta be in the running. Citadel's mold line remover is not even remotely worth its pricetag if you operate on plastic or resin models, as 90% of the time you could use the hobby knife you already have to do the same thing.
>>
>>94802331
>>94802332
>>94802402
yeah I left it for an hour and it kinda solidified even with that amount of cement, maybe I have to play around with the mixture ratio
>>94802385
maybe that's why I feel dizzy lmao
>>94802386
looks neat, will look into it
>>
Hey WIP, whats a good mini paint set to pick up for someone getting back into the hobby after not painting anything since WH40k 3rd edition?
>>
>>94802734
Depends entirely on what army you're painting and what color scheme
>>
Whats the best starter airbrush, and what do i need to get to use it inside?
>>
>>94800943
it's almost like trenches are close quarters areas where soldiers are pressed together in a claustrophobic melee
>>
>>94802761
>Whats the best starter airbrush
Aliexpress chinesium airbrush, it's also good for primming and basecoating, topcoating too
>>
>>94802740

Night Lords.
>>
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Reivers at home
>>
>>94802761
Master G233
>>
>>94802452
>>94802511
The back of an x-acto knife is so flat it almost has an edge, that's what you're supposed to use. Technically it's not a dull edge, just an obtuse edge.
>>
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I salvaged my metal orks from my old army box. I wish I knew wtf I did with the old ghazgkull or my killer kans or dreadnought. I think I'm gonna strip them and keep em around to paint. The mekboy and wrench grot especially.
>>
>>94802734
>>94802787
There's so many styles these days that "what paint do I use" is a harder question than it used to be.
Vintage is in, you could get a warcolours nostalgia set (the Brettonia one seems to have the best colors for Night Lords) and pick up exactly where you left off.
>>
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Extremely dramatic contrasting under-lighting seems to be my obsession for the new year.
>>
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>>94802877
hell yeah. Those old meks make for great spanners in a loota squad
>>
>>94802928
I'm gonna put him in golden demon if my actual submission model doesn't show up in time. If I'm happy with the paint job anyway
>>
>>94802927
I can see why, it looks good.
I can't into complicated lighting, is there a science to it?
>>
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>>94802958
If you're the adepticon guy I'll check him out in the case when I get there.
>>
>>94802965
Fortunately what I'm doing is really simple - pick a color to emanate from one direction, then pick a contrasting (or near-contrasting) color to come from the opposite direction, then just air brush 2-3 shades of those colors in order of rising value from the directions you've chosen. I'm keeping it simple with lighting from above and below but you could hypothetically choose any opposing angles.
>>
>>94802967
>Casual 90kg of killer kans
Strong table
>>
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>>94802991
wagh sir, wagh
>>
>>94802997
damn that's quite a collection of greenskins. Nice
>>
>>94802997
Based.
>>
>>94802997
fully painted armies always look great, and cute scarf
>>
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Slowly getting through this warband. I think maybe a week more of painting and I can get it done. I sure am tired of glazing purple though. I'll be able to get the leathers/browns and skin done in one sitting probably, so after finishing those bits and the purple, I think just metallics and bits and bobs left and then basing.
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>>94803053
The bone held by the ghoul on the far left kinda looks like a cock and balls. Cool models btw
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>>94803070
Lots of things look like cocks and balls when you think about it. Does nature want you gay? Who knows.
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I'm gonna strip him and clean the model up properly and start from scratch, but instead of organizing stuff I painted an arm. Done with him for now though.
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Reposting basecoated dilanza with a couple questions.
1. The head looks too visually separate from the rest of camo-colored parts. I want to add some red to it, but fear that it will become unparseable. What do you think, anons?
2. I want to do a desert base. What to use for most of the volume of it? Greenstuff will be too much of a waste.
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>>94803076
>What to use for most of the volume of it?
Go outside, put hand open palm down on ground, close hand, keep closed and bring back inside, open hand on top of base. Now you have volume.
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>>94803083
That's how you end up with a mouldy base.
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>>94803096
You mean a very realistic looking mouldy base.
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>>94803101
The mould will be completely out of scale with the kit anon, what are you talking about!
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Aight. I need opinions. Asking here first before I throw it to the wolves in 40kg. I'm doing some substantial edits to my Farsight for /mydudes/; trying to make up the suit as stealthier and a bit more feminine. I think I've done a reasonable job of that, but you can see I've tacked on the normal tassle at an angle. Does the motion look good or do I need to exaggurate it more? The other idea I had was taking the tassle off of the dawn blade to either put it on the other side (letting its existing curve whip around the leg implying more motion) or replacing the normal one with some more volume.

The base is going to be in part water, so I can add more movement with splashes and the fusion blade zipping through the water, but I want to get the physical bits working upfront and not have to try and rely on smoke and mirrors for the appearance.

General crit is good too. I feel like the codpiece/pelvis might be a bit bare so I'm considering adding another plate or a 'skirt' of armored plates, but I'm wary of overcluttering.
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>>94803106
Big alien mould.
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>>94803073
Come on look at it
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>>94803114
Yeah it looks like a cock and balls. But look to your right, also a cock and balls. Now behind you. Cock and balls.
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>>94803076
Take terrain snow and color it like sand
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>>94803109
I think the tassel should be following the movement of the model, so flowing more parallel
but honestly I don't care for it, it looks too much like a purity seal this way
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>>94803116
God I wish
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>>94803109
ditch tassel
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>>94802927
Yeah it's great. Too bad it gets lost if you paint over it.
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>>94803096
Just put it in the freezer for a couple days, kills everything.
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>>94803358
>>94803096
Or stop bitching and play nurgle. You fucking coward.
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>>94803350
Not if you don't paint over it ;)
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>>94803426
It's a cool effect, but it's not cool enough to just leave as is.
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>>94800568
based positivity chad
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>>94800568
Happy birthday!

What fresh hell have I stumbled into.. Vince made it look so ez.. I can do this..... >.<
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>>94801797
get a tank
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>>94801305
Based
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>>94801305
>Dunno never played it. I mostly just hobby craft.
unfathomably based
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Any hobby stores I should keep in mind aside from magnet baron?
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>>94803070
Looks like a rusty dagger to me
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>>94803486
It'll probably look cleaner and be easier to paint if you only do NMM on the edge, instead of doing NMM over the entire thing. Also remember to thin your paints properly, it's built up some texture now. The blue blade looks nice btw, just needs some work. NMM always looks hella ugly until it starts coming together in the end. Might wanna watch a Vince video on glazing btw, that shit is key for this
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>>94803486
>>94803608
If you paint the blunt edge of the blade black with thin layers, do some blue edge highlights, and then glaze the NMM effect properly, then it'll probably come together real nice. Can probably leave the runes as they are too, or maybe add some tiny lil white dots in there to make it look like a lightning effect
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>>94803623
>the blunt edge
the blunt part*
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>>94803608
>>94803623
Thank you anons. Hold my coffee... I will make this work. I just coated the whole thing with 'ardcoat to hopefuly smooth out the texture before proceeding. It was a kind of average 3d print cleanup/sanding job tbqhwy. Does anyone know if it's required to wait 24 hours for 'ardcoat (citadel brush on gloss coat)? Or can I paint over it in a few hours and be all good?
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>>94803639
You got this anon
>Does anyone know if it's required to wait 24 hours for 'ardcoat (citadel brush on gloss coat)? Or can I paint over it in a few hours and be all good?
Depends on how thick if a coat you applied, air humidity and temperature, the amount of sunlight hitting your model, etc. It'll most likely be dry to the touch in an hour or so but if you wanna be completely safe wait until tomorrow.
>>
Check a Death Guard transfer sheet for horus heresy. There should be some nice symbols you can use
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How to tell if two part epoxy like green stuff is "expired"? I heard they have shelf time of around year or something but if I keep them in airtight bags, they should last longer, right?
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>>94803704
Yeah, and in the fridge.
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>>94803711
I once put mixed part in the fridge, it still hardened anyway.
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>>94803731
Of course, once it's mixed it hardens. We're talking about it not spoiling.
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And I ask about this expire stuff since I wonder why copied parts keeps breaking exactly at mold line when I try to drill them. Almost as if both halves don't really glue to each other, despite pressing block providing even pressure across entire mold.

>>94803741
I heard that once mixed, curing process can be stopped when placed at temperature below 5C. Turns out it was not the case.
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>>94803581
>rusty dagger
far left, anon
it's a bone
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>>94803755
>I heard that once mixed, curing process can be stopped when placed at temperature below 5C. Turns out it was not the case.
Can't say I know exactly what the chemical process is, but if it can be stopped it's probably somewhere below zero degrees.
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>>94803792
lmao it looks like a benis :DD
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>>94803581
>>94803792
Bollock daggers were very common in medieval Europe.
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>>94803800
Studded for her pleasure.
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>>94803704
i have worked with 12 years old green stuff
both parts harden with time, the blue one is still usable even if harder but the yellow cures and you have to remove the outer layer and use only the inside that is still soft, when you mix if you see yellow dots in the mix that means you didn't remove all the cured parts
it won't be as soft as new gs but will still work

same goes for any two part epoxy like milliput or brown stuff

always store each color in separate bags
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>>94803639
Getting there...
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>>94803819
much better, you got this anon
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>>94803819
Yeah that's some solid improvement, love to see it! Dope to see you took my advice with the all black blunt part. Good stuff anon, keep at it
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>>94803755
Did you keep the mold under pressure while curing? I always put my blue stuff in a vice
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>>94803869
>>94803755
I am retarded and illiterate, sorry
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>>94802734
>>94802787
Army painter fanatic range is good for beginners, this kit got everything you need for night lords.
The one thing that would be missing is a flesh tone and a cream colour, otherwise you're gucci.
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>>94802734
Don't buy paintsets, you'll end up with many colors you'll never use.
Buy some base colors, some base washes, a few colors that are specific to your faction and which you'll use a lot, and a few extras like varnishes and primer.
>>
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>>94803823
>>94803850

Thanks very much!! I'm calling this "good enough". Gotta get on with the rest of the army or else that anon will shit in my paints :(
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>>94803960
that's very nice anon, beautiful finish with those edge highlights and those little ultra bright spots. Doesn't look like it's your first attempt at NMM at all
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Practicing faces
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>>94803978
Cheers m8. I've done basic glazing / blending / transitions , but never thought of it as NMM I suppose. This process has made me realise i really could use a new brush. Pic related is the only small brush I have atm ;(
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Continuing work on my Eldar with a Dark Magician paint scheme
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>>94804071
>chad Eldar stride
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Final photo.
Really happy that I have finished my british army.
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>>94803960
I am watching you
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>mfw a guy with 15 years more painting experience than me can paint better than me
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>>94804205
>didn't start painting immediately at birth
it's so fucking joever
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>>94804171
Congratulations anon, they look great!
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>>94804071
Nice anon, try to brighten the reds if possible.
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>>94804171
Fantastic work, anon!
Nice to see some historicals
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>>94804190
;0 , I'm getting out an infantry squad right now !
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>>94804171
>>94804225
Wish I could say something beyond that they're looking good but I don't know shit about historicals. Still, nice job anons and good to have you here
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>>94804216
But I did.. my mom's a painter so I painted, then I got into Heroquest when I was 8.
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>>94804205
I have like... 3 years experience? If we don't count the random batch of d&d minis I did a decade ago. Keep your chin up anon. I know I'm not the best... But I try to push myself and I stay silly and have fun.
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>>94804225
Crazy good
>>94804224
>>94804231
Thx !
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>>94804205
Just remember to paint with a goal. Being new means you get to enjoy triumphs more often as you "level up" your skill. I've been painting for only a year and am still enjoying the feeling of growth.
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>>94803486
NMM has a real ugly phase until the last 20% or so where it all starts to blend together. Need to trust the process, and can always adjust later.
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>>94804578
I don't understand the point of NMM
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>>94804980
artistic challenge and when done right it looks great on display minis
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>>94804980
What is the point of painting little dudes?
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>>94805015
what is the point of life?
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>>94805017
painting little dudes
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>>94805023
ok you got me
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>>94804980

If you think of painting as a skill tree in an RPG, NMM is near the top of skills. Chrome/Air/Sky, NMM, freehand capes/flags that look like sewn cloth, professionally painted faces and eyes, OSL thats actually good, and so on. You can paint to a certain level while learning the basics of minipainting but you have to sit down and work/study to learn NMM.

Also there are various styles of "painting minis". NMM can be used for different styles - its not only "Gamesworkshop White Dwarf 3 highlights style" - some of the hyper realism paint jobs, subtle color blends, and competition crystal brush pieces all have elements of NMM
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>>94804980
I like how it looks better on most minis, so i do it.
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>>94805160
show us, I don't see nmm here too often and I want to give it a go eventually
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>>94801958
I had a recast of this shitter in my drawer for literal years, it just seems like a pain so I've never felt the need.
Anything I should bear in mind?
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Finished this guy and for my standarts, he turned out pretty well! I experimented around with kitbashing and mixing colors.
I think the kitbash turned out great, it was one of those free Warhammer minis of the month initially (dwarf with the huge revolver gun). I kept the body and legs but chopped up the revolver and added the barrel of a plasma rifle (I think), so it looks like a new, unique weapon. I especially loved how well drybrushing with silver can make guns look, that blew me away! For his right arm, I cut off the hand and gave him a DKoK or Sororitas chainsaw sword and the head is from a Necromunda sprew. I did not have skin color but on my very first try was able to mix one I was extremely happy with!
The negatives of this paintjob process were:
Even for a very simple mini (80% is 1 color), it look me forever to paint, something like 5 hours, which is insane.
I have trouble thinning the color so it sticks and covers nicely.
Overall, I am happy, I experimented successfully and learned new stuff.
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>>94805336
this ones a bit quick and dirty but you get the point, personally i just prefer the kinda cartoony look it can give since i already paint very bright and cartoony.
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>prime minis to take then with me to paint while out of state
>realize the entire underside is unprimed (completely unprimed, it's grey)
Fuck. Can I still paint them or will the entire underside look horrible or be hard to paint?
>>
>>94800499
>>94800600
It's not like landing any other plane anon, the 109's poor visibility and narrow landing gear meant it lost literally as many planes in landing crashes as to enemy action
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>>94806031
Worse is, all of them have their arms raised, so even looking at it from the front, it's visibily unprimed.
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>>94805064
I actually don't understand NNM either.

What if you just... Do NNM but with metallic paints? Like... MM? I dunno.
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>>94806070
use black paint from a brush.
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>>94806031
>>94806070
I mean paint will eventually stick to bare plastic. It will just be a pain in the ass and I think it will chip way easier. Then again not like you have anything to lose right? You can always just strip them when you get back home if something goes terribly wrong
>>94806083
I think when people say TMM they usually mean NMM painted using metallics and washes/inks/contrasts? Or is TMM just using metallics and that's it
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>>94806018
Not going to lie I was hoping to see it on a bigger surface but the bracelet does look very nice and definetely reads as gold. Also painting with vibrant colors is the objectively correct way to paint minis.
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>>94806083
>What if you just... Do NNM but with metallic paints
I actually do that for my swords! In a very rudimentary, simple way, that is.

>>94806091
TMM means just using metallic paints, generally
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>>94806197
Unironically looks better than actual NMM.
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>>94803755
Cold temps slows down the curing not stop it entirely. It's good for another 2 or 3 days until it hardens completely.
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Which right arm looks better? I wish phobos just came with more shoulderpads instead whatever they did for right arms while also attaching the sprue right in the middle of the pauldron
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>>94806197
that looks awesome
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>>94806319
I like first one the most
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>>94803755
Might be some dust, water, fingerprint-oils or similar on the mating surfaces precenting them from bonding properly?
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>>94806319
either gun or nade, double blades is meh
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Hey wondering if I could get some help, ive been pulling my hair out looking for a Saim-hann Rich red recipe, I tried the classic citadel method and found it quite dull, contrast too , also tried my hand using the liquitex inks that were deceptively opaque and hard to thin in the airbrush

anyone got a nice repeatable recipe for an intermediate painter?

Thank you kindly

Khaine for attention
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>>94806385
These things are unlikely as I use nitride gloves and if I use water (I avoid vaseline due to reasons you mentioned) I gently wipe it before. Like I said, odd case.
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>>94806407
Upside down khaine apparently rip
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>>94806407
Do you have a picture of what you're aiming for? Some search result shows it as a bright, orange-y red. Oh and also what you mean by classic citadel method? Basecoat-wash-highlight?
>>
C from Ontario, got the resin models, they are amazing! Will clean, assemble and post soon.
Thank you.
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>>94806449
so the red Im looking for is along the lines of this, by citadel method I meant; mephiston red, carroburg crimson, evil suns scarlet, wildrider red and fire dragon bright, but it just wasnt hitting right. I did mess around with matte and satin varnishes to see if it would do the trick
>>
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>>94804205
>do not put any effort into improving my painting skills
>my painting skills do not improve for years
It's not FAIR
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>>94805622
Paint it before putting it on the base
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>>94806509
Why is this happening TO MEEEEEEEE
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>>94806476
Ok this feels similar to how they paint admech robes. Instead of doing wild rider-fire dragon highlights they do troll slayer-tau light ochre. I also think you'll get nicer shading by gradually adding khorne red to your mephiston red and then black to the khorne red, that's how eavy metal does it supposedely. Look around eavy archive, you should be able to find something close to what you want.
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>>94806525
oh cheers man, Ill give t454dshat a gander
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>>94806522
is ogre
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>>94806197
Are the dark parts black or a dark metallic?
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>>94806197
same and: >>94806290 my opinion as well

>>94806772
black, I'd guess. Given we're talking about "NMM but with metallics"~
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>>94801305

MUUUUD
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>>94799655
tried your idea that, made them look smoother!
thanks!
i really like this style already. gonna try a bit more to get to a scheme
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This is just kinda WIP, but i wanna share it any ways.
My Mom being pretty good at sewing, is making a dice bag from one of the GW plushes with me.
In short go hug your Mom, if you can.
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>>94807057
What'd you use for the planks?
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>>94807174
Popcicle sticks cut and snapped

Balsa wood or the crosses and vertical supports

I gotta put on another layer of mud to fully cover the pink foam
>>
>>94806377
>>94806398
Gun it is then, I wish chainsword marines came with more shoulders, bolter marines get 18 per 5 dudes
>>
>>94807193
>Popcicle sticks cut and snapped
>Balsa wood or the crosses and vertical supports
Thanks
I'll be making siege towers this weekend
>>
Is it normal that with Citadel base paints I need to apply a solid 3-5 layers for good coverage?
>>
>>94807171
That's way too cute. You have a very nice mom
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>>94807225
depends on the primer you use, the color of it, and the color of your paint. some paints cover more easily than others and yes in my experience it's not abnormal to use 3-5 layers for a decent coat if it's a lighter shade
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>>94807124
the lights and shadows look much better already
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>>94806772
They're just black paints, wetblended with the metallics.
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>>94806002
>sprew.
its spelled "sprue", model looks great though.
>>
>>94806083
>What if you just... Do NNM but with metallic paints?
I do this when I want to take metal details further than wash + edge highlight and I like how it looks
>>
Do AK, Vallejo, or Army Painter have paints similar to GW's "contrast" line? Or can I get similar result by mixing base paints (like Vallejo's "model color") with something (medium, perhaps)? If so - in what proportions?
>>
>>94807584
Vallejo Xpress and Army Painter Speedpaints 2.0
idk about AK but you can probably use inks of any type to get a similar paint as well
>>
>>94807584
Vallejo has xpress paints, and army painter has speedpaints 2.0.
AK doesn't have any as far as I know? AK is more a line for historical modelers who actually know where they want to put a specific color, not people who want to just slop some washes on and call it a day, so it makes sense they haven't gotten into that yet.
>>
>>94807584
Vallejo has Xpress color I think they're called, AP has speedpaints and Scale75 also has a similar product but I can't remember what are they called. You can add an acrylic paint to contrast/speedpaint medium and it will behave a bit like those paints - it'll stay on flat surfaces more instead of running straight into recesses like a wash. Pigments used in contrasts are different though, that's where the translucency comes from. You will not get the exact same effect by just adding a "normal" acrylic paint to the medium so keep that in mind
>>
How many of you mock up paint jobs in photoshop (or whatever program/app) before painting?
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>>94807752
I've done it when I'm pulling a color scheme from something that doesn't immediately translate to a 60 30 10 color distribution
>>
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Anyone knows of a mold/way to easily get ammo belts with greenstuff to glue onto models/weapons? Maybe some kind of press?

Greenstuff world has a great thing f'to make easy cables, coils and tentacles with greenstuff, maybe something kind of like this? Thanks!
>>
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>>94806083
>What if you just... Do NNM but with metallic paints? Like... MM? I dunno.
do it, many ppl that uses metallic paint just slap it on and wash it, ignoring lights and shadows even if they define shadows and highlights on non-metallic surfaces on the same model
just shade and highlight metallics with other metallics or even regular paint for shadows, and/or use NMM techniques but with metallic paints, it looks better imo
>>
>>94807814
i guess a twin rolling mold could be made like those for candy to just make infinite length ammo belts, probably at the cost of very visible moldlines and flashing just like candy but still

maybe someone here can print a poc of this? doing the cad should be easy enough, if some anon with a resin printer is interested in testing i could even try doing the model


gsw or any other chinese manufacturer if you are reading this do steal this idea but at least send me a couple
>>
>>94807814
Zinge industries have flexible ammo belts.
https://www.zinge.co.uk/collections/flexible-resin
>>
What do you guys use to hold your models while you paint them?
I've got an old citadel handle I really like (the red ribbed one), but it doesn't hold 40mm bases so I'm looking for a new one
>>
>>94808122
Empty spice containers and wooden clothes pegs with blu-tac. Can't beat it.
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>>94808122
Are you gluing a model to the base and *then* painting it?
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>>94808128
I've tried blu-tac but it always gets messy

>>94808130
yeah unless there's some pain in the ass to get to part like a big cloak that the base would obscure
>>
>>94808122
I do subassemblies, with bits stuck unto dropper paint bottles with blutack.
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>>94808122
Rx bottles, use bluetec, double sided foam tape, or the pin poked through the cap and secured from below to hold the mini.
>>
>>94808122
For anything bigger than that handle I use an old lid from a citadel spray can. I stick 3 bits of blutac to it and put the model on top because triangles are the strongest shape. I also shouldn't paint after glueing to the base, but I can never seem to get models stable enough if they aren't glued to a base.
>>
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Here's my wip. Got biggest part of thr base colors done for 30 of these oathmark revenants. I did a color experiment on the skin of the guy on the right.
>>
>>94799775
Its a good feeling, my sternguard made one late last year

Currently working on my scouts, just putting off finishing my orc regiment
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>>94808122
If I'm not just holding by the base, tac on top of small milk bottles from wendy's
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>>94799314
TC related question.
How long does it take for streaking grime to dry/cure/whatever? Will it always reactivate unless I throw some matte varnish to seal it?
Should/can I beat over the non sealed model (touch up some highlights and add some other effects).
Pic for attention. Thanks for your time
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>>94801827
nyan?
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First attempt at doing contrasts over zenithal priming (just did my first airbrushing today).

Not done yet, still need to paint the ropes and eyes, clean up a couple spots, and do some more shading and highlighting, but I think he's looking pretty good for ~2 hours worth of work.
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>>94809094
I like him. do you think he has a double donger? a hemipene?

>>94807866
yeah that's what I do. :3

>>94807584
mix a medium with an ink?
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>>94809268
>>94809070
>>94801827
Why do you talk like this?
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hey chronomancer, fuck you and your fucking tentacle gap. Im going to melt you down with a magnifying glass
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>>94809274
anime most likely
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>>94809274
>>
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Reivers kitbashed
Now to figure out the sergeant later
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Finally got around to finishing this guy. 1 more for the squad.
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>>94809274
It's clearly a catgirl posting
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I get this issue were I touch my brush to a paper towel after picking up paint, check it on my nail, everything looks good, but then it explodes unto the mini in a puddle. Might be that I'm still not thinning my paints properly on the wet pallet.
Otherwise, all the angles on this mini with the legs, the way the rider is positioned, and that damn grapple hook make it pretty hard to get into the tricky spots. I tried doing these weird compound grips to try and brace my hand to mixed results. I'll look at it again tomorrow, but I don't want to become obsessed with getting a perfect base coat, would rather move unto trying some blending and letting it be flawed. On one hand, these skeeters have been a nightmare, on the other, I'm kind of enjoying the challenge as a beginner.

On the bright side, I told one of my friends I didn't have a gray in the basic Vallejo kit and he told me about "Chromatic Grays" which are supposed to be akin to MSG, but in color. You can get them by mixing some tri-color combo and then adding white to it(I just used red green blue here). I like it, but I didn't blend all the colors together at once and because of that it's a little inconsistent. Still better then White/Black gray though.
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>>94809522
>crop photo
>still rotated.
WYSIWYG is bullshit.
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>>94809522
>then it explodes unto the mini in a puddle
Maybe too much water still in the brush? That's the only way I can think of it exploding out
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>>94809522
You're overloading your brush or leaving too much water in there. So there's water in your brush, the first time you touch your nail or whatever just what's on the tip comes off, but the next time, the movement shifts the water down and it all runs off.

Pro tip to avoid that.
>Don't use paper towel
>Rinse your brush
>Rub excess water on your hand
>Put your brush in your mouth to get the rest out
>Lick your brush to restore the tip
>Dip brush into the paint on your pallet only a quarter to halfway up the brush
>Brush excess paint off on the side of your hand until you have a consistency you like
>Paint
I struggled for years using paper towels before I discovered that.
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>>94809551
Probably.
>>94809562
I'll give it a shot.
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>>94809581
>>Put your brush in your mouth to get the rest out
>>Lick your brush to restore the tip
You are being trolled.
A paper towel is more than enough for getting excess moisture out of a brush. If you're still unsatisfied just use your fingers to lightly press on the hairs. For getting a good tip just twirl the brush while loading it, that's literally all you have to do.
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>>94809599
I am not trolling. You clearly don't do it yourself. Saliva keeps the brush's tip better than anything I've tried. Doing this actually helped me over a wall I'd hit.
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>>94809599
A paper towel takes out too much moisture, skin is better
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>>94809535
in my experience, if you had to rotate the photo on the phone its not gonna work. But if you make sure the phone UI indicated it was in landscape mode when you took the photo it will turn out correct.
That said, I always just open the photo on my computer, rotate it, save it, rotate it back, save it. Thats never failed for me.
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>>94809653
I just send the photo to myself on fbook messenger then save it on the computer. That solves all these problems. It's the right way up and it's shittily compressed so I don't need to resize the image.
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Is there any point of using expensive handle like this compare to regular pill bottle?
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>>94809665
flex on poors
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>>94809665
Wood feels good to hold.
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>>94809665
Not really, no.
Nobody serious about this hobby paints minis on a base.
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>>94809690
>People who make their career out of the hobby painting on bases
Huh weird, I guess they are wrong and you are more serious than them.
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>>94809688
Based hedonist anon.
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>>94809721
Who, for example?
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>>94809688
you can touch my wood anytime anon ;)
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>>94809755
Duncan.
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>>94809774
He's gonna say Duncan is not a particularly good painter so I'm gonna drop Vince, Giraldez, Latham and Hidalgo. If he's a better painter than those I concede
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>>94809789
He never said anything about how good they were. He said nobody serious about this hobby paints minis on a base. I can't think of anything more serious than making a career out of it. Anon is here painting 1 mini a month between fingering his asshole while these guys are earning a living painting shit and sometimes that shit is glued to a base.
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>>94809774
Duncan is trying to show you painting techniques and is making decisions based on what makes a good YouTube video.
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>>94809799
Sounds pretty serious to me.
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>>94809799
>and is making decisions based on what makes a good YouTube video
Why does having a base attached to your mini make a good youtube video? Surely if painting without the base is better he'd do that to show the correct technique to painting?
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>>94809816
>Why does having a base attached to your mini make a good youtube video?
Because it shows the entire mini and gives a clear visual indication of the progress of painting, so you can skip through the video to find the part youre looking for.
If he just painted a random assemblage of bits in an arbitrary order that functionality would be lost.
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>>94809755
I've seen several videos of the process behind Golden Demon winners, and most of them do no sub assembly and paint on the base.
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>>94809846
>Because it shows the entire mini and gives a clear visual indication of the progress of painting, so you can skip through the video to find the part youre looking for.
How does having a plain plastic base stuck to your mini do any of what you just said? I think you've moved the goal posts from
>Nobody serious about this hobby paints minis on a base.
To
>Everyone serious about this hobby paints sub-assemblies
Correct me if I'm wrong though. Also I know for a fact that's not true. I've watched videos of great career painters talking about how much they hate sub assemblies. Hell I think some have made videos about it. Sometimes it's necessary to paint with sub assemblies, sure. Depends on the model. But it's just one of many ways to paint and you should be using all of them in the correct situations. Doing only one method makes it sound to me like you aren't really taking this hobby very
>seriously
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>>94809665
whats the point of the metal thing on the side of the handle
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The Dungeons and Lasers NPC kit just arrived and I'm genuinely impressed with how much is in here. it worked out to be like a couple of bucks per miniature and there's a loads of fancy bases in the box as well which i wasn't expecting.
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>>94809902
It gives you a spot to support your painting hand with a few fingers while doing tiny detail work that requires a lot of stability
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>>94803992
What did you use for the skin? Looks great.
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Not a /wip/ related thing but my enthusiasm is way lower now to magnetize the core game armor kits now that I found out the scale between the core box and post GC stuff is different.
Still will probably do it though but not as excited since poots would most likely announce a revamp of the original core game minis.
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>>94809962
She's a big girl.
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>>94809966
4u
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>>94809962
I want to be crushed by dem thighs holy shit.
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I bought four x Villainy Ink and I've found them really underwhelming. Not helped by the included pipette not working on three of the bottles.

Anyone else have experience using them?
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>>94810078
I'd probably just use oil washes instead. They are more flexible and can achieve the same.
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>>94807057
what did you use for the mud?? Fuck that's going to look amazing painted
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>>94809522
if you're already touching them on a paper towel, then start checking if there's a water drop that's clinging further up on the brush. I've had that happen early on quite a bit, then the drop would slowly move downwards while I was painting and when it'd reach the brush tip it would explode a coloured wash on my mini.
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>>94807994
Thanks!
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>>94799314
So i just start painting minis today but i don't know what kind of colors i should buy other than black, white, blue, yellow? Also the only paint i could biy in my country is Vallejo, what is the best Vallejo color?
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>>94810518
Buy colors you need to paint your minis, anon. If you are painting Cadians, you can get the palette needed. If you are painting Smurfs, the same. Check these, make a list, and then buy the colors. If Vallejo are the only colors you can get (which is strange, there is this thing called the internet. You can buy a whole lot of stuff from there), then you can use something like this https://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/paint_range_compatibility_chart to compare between paint ranges.
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Mud turned out well, I'm going to apply a black wash and dry brush a highlight before adding some water effects
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>>94810103
A mixture of modge podge, joint filler, sand, gravel, black and raw umber paint
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>>94810569
>which is strange, there is this thing called the internet. You can buy a whole lot of stuff from there
The shipping price is insane, that's the problem. Also Vallejo paint is often out of stock too so i would like to just buy most thing i need in one fell swoop
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>>94810781
I'm not sure where you live, but AP, for example, offers free shipping above 100 eur/dollaridoos.
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>>94810683
>>94810678
That mud looks really good. Better, natural light and you could think it is real.
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>>94810518
Maybe find a paint tutorial on YouTube you like as a starting point? That's how I got into it
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>>94810803
Well, i'm a vietcong so no free shipping for me
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>>94809772
picrel
>>94810683
Amazing
>>94810518
I like red.
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>>94811198
I would personally recommend against vallejo reds, they've been airbubble central for me. Also to try looking around and seeing if more brands are available in the area
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>>94811517
I meant like, red in general. the anon I replied to mentioned like... 2 colours and 2 shades? which isn't enough colours.

what's wrong with bubbles?
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Finished a test Spyre Hunter. Thoughts on how I can improve it? Feels like it's missing something
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>>94811592
The face feels pretty flat and since it's what usually draws people eyes the first impression is kinda underwhelming despite hair and armor being nice
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>>94811545
Vallejo airbubbles have a tendency to not pop when drying leaving them visible on the model
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>>94811912
It's avoidable if you apply their paints thinly but yeah it's still a pain in the ass. No reason to use them over others of similar quality
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Slaves to Synthwave proggers. Probably just going to finish a couple more characters and set down the project for a bit, no need to risk project burnout when there's no deadline.
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>>94811929
Very, very cool. You actually pulled it off in a way that does not look shoddy or overdone. It feels more like just being inspired by colors usually associated with synthwave which is way more tasteful. Nice job, anon.
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>>94811929
Very cool.

what did you use for florescent greens?
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>>94812068
It's Citadel Tesseract Glow over a white oil wash
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>>94811929
These are sick
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>>94809962
Yeah KDM went from a ~32cm scale to almost ~40cm scale after the original core box and 1st expansions were released. That said, it has been at that higher scale for probably a decade now.
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Is it a bad idea to use these syringes to scoop out citadel paint?
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>>94812447
I use regular pipettes, or a hobby / putty knife... Or just a brush.
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>>94799921
Get some more shade in them recesses, feller!
The blue feels like it's missing something, but I couldn't say what. Doesn't quite read as a metal at the moment.
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>>94810078
I bought two. Just hate them. They are worse than the AK enamel washes they are supposed to replace and have a bunch of random gunk in them. Immedeatly clogged my airbrush and when I tried them on a model it added so much unwanted texture in the gaps, I couldnt' get it all out.
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>>94802642
Ah! Fine fellow Citi-Block peruser.

The red-haired step-expansion for Rogue Trader, and true ancestor or Necromunda.

Weird how few Oldhammer fans even know it exists. 's rarer to see than the Book of the Astronomican.

>>94802877
Also handy for GorkaMorka... Which reminds me... I still have a few Diggas to paint...

>>94804225
Not one of the Above Anons... but I do like historicals. Sadly, I like weird stuff... so I'd end up doing something inter-war (like a Soviet force with several T-35 or a load of BA Armoured cars) or just plain weird (like a load of Japanese amphibious tanks)... then never play with them because I don't know anyone who plays that time period or scale. They must be out there, somewhere, because I work near to where Victrix has their warehouse and shop.

Personally... I blame 4-chan for my rambling posts. Expecting me to wait 15 mins to prove I'm not a bot gives me too much time to type.

Also... this Shaman looks kinda fruity...
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>>94812464
Could a thin flesh wash work? I don't want to make it too dark or get it staining the raised areas
As for the armor maybe it's a little bit glossy so maybe it looks like plastic?
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Cam I get youse guys's advice on something? I really want to make my own Rogue Idol, and this guy's video looks like an achievable way to do it. But I want to make mine bigger, like 7 inches tall. The same height as a Mega Gargant because I'd probably be running it as one since the Rogue Idol got Legends'd

I've never done anything like this and I'm wondering if the foam and hot glue construction would hold up by itself at that size. Would I be better off building it around a wire armature for stability? Or would that be unnecessary?
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>>94811592
Much more shading, possibly outright black-lining, of the recesses the armour plates meet.
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>>94810781
At the minimum you'll want the following (or similar):
70.950 black
70.993 white grey
70.928 light flesh
70.983 flat brown
Xpress 72.477 dreadnaught yellow
70.909 vermillion
70.809 royal blue
70.970 deep green
77.7xx Metal Color range of metallic(s), i.e. silver and aluminium (could maybe get a good enough gold by painting dreadnaught yellow over the top)

Then you should be able to find a spray can primer and a gloss varnish that'll work in hardware stores. You'd then need:
70.522 satin varnish
70.520 matt varnish

I presume oil paints and mineral spirits are somewhat readily available, so look up oil wash tutorials, which will cover basically everything else. But I'd also buy a purple (70.959), and maybe some of the fluorescent game colours (magenta/blue/green), just for convenience.

>>94812685
Insulation foam should hold up at that size, but I think I'd want it to be a bit more rigid, either using a wire frame, or sticking in lengths of sprue.
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>>94811592
>>94812818
an extra recess shade on the armor and an extra level of highlight on the face and key armor panels will probably make it really pop
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>>94812554
>the Book of the Astronomican
Have that one, too, although I only ever used the army lists from WD 105 and the Red Compendium.
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Im a Marvel simp
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>>94813130
oh man I loved playing Omega Red in those arcade fighting games
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A pair of big ones done.
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>>94813357
the jade looks nice
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>>94812988
I managed to get the last of the RT books last year... though admittedly the Realm of Chaos books are re-prints.

Most of the armies I've built were out of Freebooterz, though I did paint up a few Raiders for the Wolf-Time scenario... before I got distracted by RL automotive stuff....
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>>94813670
man those cover arts are great
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>>94813692
Yeah. Some of the early White-Dwarf covers were kinda cool too.. and mildly lewd.
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>>94812447
I didn’t have luck with them. The best way I managed was just cutting off the lid, setting them in a funnel and waiting 2 hours. You can add a few drops of water to get the last bit out, but beyond that you are looking at a huge mess for maybe chasing the last 5%.
Also dropper bottles are a meme.
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>>94813901
How are droppers a meme if literally every single hobby company except gw and old p3 uses them?
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>>94813670
>admittedly the Realm of Chaos books are re-prints.
I grabbed the reprints, too. Somehow, my copy of Rogue Trader is still intact, and it's nice to have hardcover RoC books where the binding hasn't completely disintegrated.

>>94813767
>Some of the early White-Dwarf covers were kinda cool
Back before the Dark Age of Technology, when White Dwarf wasn't an in-house-only magazine, they brought in a lot of artists and either commissioned them for projects or licensed existing pieces.

White Dwarf 77 had a big article for GW's Judge Dredd game in it, but the cover is Chris Achilleos's painting of Taarna from the movie Heavy Metal!

>Captcha: W40K
Holy shit.
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>>94813971
>they brought in a lot of artists and either commissioned them for projects or licensed existing pieces.
GW hired Achilleos to do a piece for Advanced Space Crusade that had the Scythes of The Emperor battling the Tyranids, but in his book Amazona, he says they ended up not using it.

>This picture was commissioned for a role-playing board game, but to the best of my knowledge was never used. There is nothing like this particular painting represented anywhere else in this book; a strictly science-fiction piece packing serious hardware. It's a rarity for me to paint such subjects, but it makes a nice change.

Looks cool enough to me.
>>
WD81 featured Achilleos's painting "Eagle Rider" on the cover.
>>
The "Ravening Hordes" cover for WD 89 is also (part of) a Chris Achilleos painting.
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I.... always quite liked #27
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>>94813901
>Also dropper bottles are a meme
Absolute insanity, they're leagues better than citadel pots which aren't even airtight
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>>94813901
The biggest meme is buying paint that's more expensive, lower quality and in shittier packaging instead of other paints that mog them in all 3 categories.
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2nd Ed Ghazghkull and Makari finished!
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>>94814226
Good thing we didn't run out the image limit posting White Dwarf magazine covers. These ladz look great! Thanks for sharing!

New thread:

>>94814246
>>94814246
>>94814246



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