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Work in Progress, "A man does not have himself killed for half-a-pence a day, or for some petty distinction. You must speak to his soul to electrify him!" Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin:
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>"Not yet, old man!"
aHR0cHM6Ly9nb2ZpbGUuaW8vZC9LVGRRQ3o=

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

Previous threads:
>>94714039
>>94700837
>>94682696
>>94667520
>>
WIP Secret Santa archives

>2024
https://imgur.com/a/g7MfJE5
>2023
https://imgur.com/a/e9QOmJJ
>2022
https://imgur.com/a/2OWxHpg
>2021
https://imgur.com/a/TKfeLxU
>2020
https://imgur.com/a/TeduVrJ
>2019
[REDACTED]
>2018
https://imgur.com/a/UWRYKEq
>2017
https://imgur.com/a/qS7PH
>2016
https://imgur.com/a/1fxhq
>>
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Finished the proxy for my Kommandos big choppa boss nob
>>
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>>94729822
And under black light
>>
>>94729822
>>94729828

Das one sneaki boi.
>>
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What do i do with the stupid bird? any ideas?
>>
>>94730259
Sit him on a nice swastika
>>
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>music
>coffee
>assembling
>>
>>94730523
Love that for you.
>>
NMM vs TMM for relatively small miniatures, what's your take?
I think TMM looks really cool, but I still have to understand the right techniques to make it look realistic, and not too uniform and boring. Any suggestions? I know some are using washes, but I expect they don't just slap citadel's on top of the base layer and call it a day.
>>
>>94730673
NMM is really time consuming because it pretty much only looks good when it's REALLY good. This means you have to put a lot of effort into smoothing it out with glazes etc., I wouldn't bother with NMM on anything but purely display minis. You can add some simple volumetric highlights to your TMM to make them look better.
>>
>>94730673
I think for a smaller model, you're going to have a harder time really selling the effect. The larger space you've got to work with, the more you can really capture the volumes and sell the reflective effect. You really do need space to be able to properly communicate that it's meant to be shiny with light reflecting off of it
You could always layer up your metallics, from a dark, flat basecoat to a metallic midtone and then into some lighter metallic highlights
>>
How it started
>>
>>94730814
How it's going
>>
Do you guys got any tips for painting faster? I need 4-6 hours for a mini, that can't be right.
>>
>>94730865
Depends on how your mini looks like after 6 hours.
>>
>>94730865
Batch paint. You don't need 4-6 hours for a mini you need 4-6 hours to complete all the steps. Sounds like trivial difference but consider things like drying time, transfers, etc and it makes more sense to paint 5 models at once rather than focusing on one at a time.
>>
>>94730865
Practice batch painting. You're probably spending so much time because you keep flip flopping around and reworking things etc. Instead of just following the process. There's a time to practice perfection and a time to grind technical skill. Both are important.
>>
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>>94730865
>4-6 hours
>mfw I take 15-20 hours on even a simple mini
anyway, use speedpaints and drybrushing, learn to ignore small mistakes
>>
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>>94730884
>>
>>94730826
>>94730814
QUAR QUAR QUAR QUAR
>>
>>94730826
Th-they're just sleeping, right?
>>
>>94730909
Experience will increase speed.
>>
>>94730694
>You can add some simple volumetric highlights to your TMM
How does that work?
>You could always layer up your metallics, from a dark, flat basecoat to a metallic midtone and then into some lighter metallic highlights
Same question here
>>
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>>94730980
What I do is take a picture with a light source coming from, say, top left to use as reference and then slowly build up to a highlight color. So base color->1:1 base:midtone->midtone->1:1 midtone:highlight->highlight. Metallics are more forgiving when it comes to blends, it won't really be visible the blend is not perfect even with just 2 steps while with nmm you'd have to do 4+ to sell it as smooth
>>
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>>94730826
very nice
I wanna cannibalize some extra models for wounded token and have the poor sods' guts hanging out by drawing them with a 3D pen. I am just considering getting these official ones instead
>>
>>94729822
>>94729828
Cool paint. Like the fluorescent detail. Orkz iz best
>>
>>94730865
Take stimulants
>>
>>94725006
Continuation
>>
I had a vision this week for a modeling project, but I've a few questions to the learned elders of /WIP/. How well do 3rd party 3d printed parts fit to victrix miniatures? The assembly instructions make it seem like they are very strict about which part goes were etc. Also, how do victrix miniatures scale with other manufacturers, like north star or fireforge. Are they roughly of the same scale? Many thanks in advance.
>>
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>>94730814
>>94730826
>>
>>94730865
Like with most things painting related: practice practice practice.
>>
>>94730980
>How does that work?
It's just normal, regular highlighting. But you do it to your metallics too, not just the non-metallic parts of your model.
>>
>>94730909
Put in the time you’re willing to. More time means more practice.
>>
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>>94731195
>Are they roughly of the same scale?
It's a mystery.
>>
>>94731379
>>
>>94730865
1. Plan out your paint scheme before you start. What colors, what techniques, and in what order.
2. Cut corners where you can. Could you get a similar result by base coating with contrast paint or dry brushing the mid tone?
3. Practice, practice, practice. If you want to do something well quickly you have to do it well slowly first.
>>
>>94731398
Stupid ork, burning himself
>>
>>94731383

Some of the grogs over at /hwg/ criticize victrix for inconsistent scales of models within their 28mm range.
>>
Is vallejo model color meant for advanced users? It's a bit hard for me as a new painter when they don't order them in a triad. They have 42 shades of green, which is great, but I feel like I just need it to make it simple for me by giving me three colors and that's it.
>>
>>94731496
I can't really see any reason why they would be for advanced users, they behave more or less like other acrylics. What is cool is that they give you an option of historically accurate colors, some that are otherwise fairly pain in the ass to mix properly (like German greens, grays, and green-grays).
If you don't want to research shit, just buy some bigger box from AP. They come in triads, they are well-marked, and the colors are good.
>>
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>>94731458
They are based retards
>>
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>>94731462
>>94731195
Their newer kits are certainly on the bigger side of things, maybe not when compared with GW stuff ofc, but certainly when you match them with the more traditional scaled Perry miniatures for example.

But coming to this main question:
>How well do 3rd party 3d printed parts fit to victrix miniatures?

That would depend a whole lot on those 3d printed parts, dont you think? My 3d printed space marine shoulder parts certainly wont fit, thats for sure.
The main difference between Victrix and others (like Fireforge, Northstar) is that the Victrix bodies often already define the pose. The "others" usually have flat shoulder joints, and the arms you glue onto them defines the pose, whereas with many Victrix bodies you have the arm until the elbow, already defining what pose that figure will have eventually, and you can choose between sword, spear and an axe for example. see pic related for a quick random comparison between a victrix and fireforge sprue. The chainmail and the clothing folds on the Victrix guys will look a lot better because the arms and torso are one piece, but the more simplistic "standard" approach of Fireforge makes it way easier for any random 3rd party bits (lets say cadian lasguns) to be glued there without bigger conversions.
>>
>>94731496
>Is vallejo model color meant for advanced users?

Its for model builders. You dont have to paint things in triads. Thats a completely artificial system made up by miniature painters because it looks good, but thats it.
>>
>>94731496
>Is vallejo model color meant for advanced users?
No.

>but I feel like I just need it to make it simple for me
There's no need for that. You can’t look at two greens and see that one is darker than the other? If not, here's a secret technique from the elden days: just take whatever your medium colour is supposed to be, mix it with black to shade, and white to highlight. If you want to get really advanced, experiment with adding a touch of yellow as well for highlighting suitable colours. Which ones are suitable I'll leave as a exercise for the reader.
>>
>>94731099
you fixed the battle damage : /
>>
>>94731606

Thank you for the lengthy response. My main idea was to swap the plastic heads with 3d printed ones. Other 3d prints would be accessories, like weapons and shields hanging from the saddle etc. Some handswaps would be nice, but they would stumble to the problems you mentioned with the models themselves and also to an issue of scale, a lot of 3d sculpts are for 32mm by default and making them smaller could create more issues.
>>
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Forgot to ask, can someone identify the Space Marine mini?
>>
>>94731928
It's the one on the far right, in the middle row.
>>
>>94731928
>>94731957

Isn't that the old plastic space marine force commander kit that had a shitload of customisation?
>>
>>94730293
Great idea but i need him for my tracker - i meant how to paint him
>>
Hobbysloppa told me AK interactive is hard to use because it's really thick and getting that nice sweet spot with water is hard. Is this true?
>>
>>94732021
No, they're very good paints and don't require much thinning actually. That guy had no clue what he was talking about
>>
>>94732040
This. I am always surprised how little love AK paints get with minis. They are excellent.
>>
>>94731379
>>94731398
Damn, this looks GREAT.
>>
>>94731812
Adding shields and some extra weapons should not be an issue at all, no matter what manufacturer you go with.
Heads might be a bit more tricky, but not too hard either. Just keep in mind that some companies go with the typical ball-joints for necks, others (see the fireforge ones) have flat necks and Victrix (in this case) has some raised necks with flat joints, but also 2 of the chainmail bodies are sculpted in a way that only a certain chainmail "top" fits to form that hood.
If you print for yourself, you can always do a testprint of a piece in 85% / 95% / 100% and 105% and see which size works best for your conversions.
>>
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>>94731928
OH N-
>>
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Last kommando I painted is all dry now, I'll need to fix the boots when I base them and do touchups. Not sure why that pinwash dried so glossy but its not a huge deal. Glad the magenta scar on the stomach showed up well after drying, the rope and backpack gun could have used another highlight, but all in all I'm pretty happy with how it came out. Have the last seven of the kill team built now, going over gaps and smoothing today to prime over the next day or so.
>>
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Just a few Minor details left to do (like the eyes and the tracker's bird) and some mistakes to fix but other than that i think they turned out pretty good. Will start on the bases tomorrow
>>
>>94731707
Yup. But don't worry, will add weathering later on
>>
Still trying to pick I head I like but I think he's turning out pretty good. will probably need to shave a bit of the top on the left shoulderpad to fit the backpack in which is not ideal though.
>>
>>94732280
Are the claws and beaks going to get another color as well? Lots of colors would work well with that pale skin, really like how it goes with the green cloaks.
>>
>>94732462
The beaks are gonna stay the way they are, i might darken them a bit though. Claws will be black i think or i'll do the light brown on there as well - not sure yet
>>
>>94731099
Looks like them Duke boyz are at it again
>>
>>94731928
>>94731977
>Isn't that the old plastic space marine force commander kit that had a shitload of customisation?
Indeed it is!
>>
>>94732507
Such a good kit that was..
>>
>>94732507
>>94731977
Thanks, it was an ebay find that had been sitting in my drawer for a year. Now's the time.
>>
>>94731993
crimson rosella or rainbow lorikeet, to go with your space aussie kroot.
>>
>>94732420
That dark blue armor fade is lovely, maybe you'll be able to carve out a notch where the backpack connects instead of trimming the pauldron?
>>
>>94732639
Yeah, I think that might be the smarter play honestly.
>>
>>94732280
wtf, why do they have sexy hips?
>>
>>94732572
Bunch of kroot calling space marines cunts is hilarious
>>
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Why does my color just go away after it dried when I paint?
>>
>>94732929
That's how paint work. Sometimes it works the other way as well. Isn't it exciting?
>>
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Basecoated this guy today
>>
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Finished the Original Yarrick, even printed off a banner and modelled it on.

>>94730523
Yarrick is always in our hearts
>>
>>94732929
Thin paint layers chip easily when handled because of the skin oils on your fingers. Use a painting handle or wear gloves on your left hand, or do both. You can also varnish the model several times throughout the painting process to protect finished areas from chipping, just be careful with the thickness to not clog any details.
>>
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>>94732996
very cool
>>
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>>94733002
>create paint (for use by humans)
>make it so it chips off when humans touch it
Man.
But thanks for the tip, guess I'll buy one of those handles.
>>
>>94733119
You shouldn't touch the mini while painting. Use the base or handle. Also, if you paint over washes paint doesn't stick as much so be wareful
>>
>>94733119
>guess I'll buy one of those handles
Nope, don't waste money. Anything that you can hold onto is fine. I use old Rx bottles, a classic are wine corks or pieces of dowel, spray paint can lids, plastic cups upside down, alligator clips on sticks, etc. Can use bluetac/poster putty, double sided tape, etc. to hold the mini to the handle while you paint.
>>
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One of my death shroud. Needs some rust on the blade and base and he'll be good for me.
>>
>>94733157
While that is correct, a miniature handle is often times more ergonomic than a substitute. If you paint for hours every week, I would recommend getting one, especially since they are rather cheap. Having a comfortable grip on your mini just makes the process more enjoyable than cramping up trying to hold a cork.
>>
>>94733177
did your cat have a field day with this model? god damn.
>>
>>94733119
While it's entirely possible to make a paint that can't easily be harmed by you touching it, the result would likely be a paint that can harm you instead, and/or takes 6-12 hours to dry enough for you to keep painting.
>>
>>94733239
Oh I see all the hair now. No idea where it came from. I'll have to tweezer it off. I don't have a cat.
>>
>>94733157
i dont understand how everyone who paints has hundreds of those medicine bottles, the only one i have is from a sick cat 10 years back.
>>
>>94733286
>I don't have a cat.
I'm not sure I like what that implies about those hair
>>
>>94733296
anon you're on 4chan, probably over half of the people here are on anti depressants or mood stabilizing meds
>>
>>94733316
back in my day that was tumblr, 4chan was where the unmedicated went.
>>
>>94733301
Those are way too thin to be human pubes. It's just stray textile fibres, so all it says is that he should clean his home more often.
>>
>>94733296
I have them due to actively dying but there are packs online for cheap. Put some sand and cat litter mixed with elmers glue in the bottom 1/4 of mine to make them a little bottom heavy, they fit in my hand and I can spin them one handed with my thumb. The lid is soft so if I'm pinning a model I can poke a hole for the pin to go through, and if I really fuck one up I can always replace it.
>>
>>94733301
>>94733337
Oh I'm actually retarded. Those came off the cotton swabs I used for the streaking grime removal.
>>
>>94733386
oh, well I'm glad we got that figured out
>>
>>94733386
Do yourself a solid and start using make-up sponges for that. Cotton swabs are the devil.
>>
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>>94733386
>>94733409
These guys are cheap, use sharp scissors to cut them into 5 or 6 pieces and a single pack will last an army.
>>
>>94733296
It's easy; just live in a country in the stranglehold of the medical industrial complex, complain about feeling sad, anxious, or overweight, and you'll get at least one lifelong prescription! Piece o' cake!

...I guess you can just buy some vitamins or something, though...
>>
>>94733296
lmao same
>>
>>94733421
What sort of sponges are good for weathering? Will those work too or are they too dense?
>>
>>94733421
I use these, do yours absorb liquid?
>>
>>94731398
Are those burn scars on his arm? Anon that's a great idea.
>>
I fucking hate nuln oil!
>>
>>94730673
I do a little of both, I paint the shadows on TMM to resemble NMM reflections. I think it looks pretty good, the final thing that sells the effect is a satin gloss varnish.
>>
>>94733296
Tylenol?
>>
>>94733527
Why did you spill it or let too much pool in a corner?
>>
>>94733472
This kind for weathering, you want the firmer structure and texture.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Frost-King-3-1-2-ft-x-2-in-Grey-PVC-Foam-Air-Conditioner-Weatherstrip/3062423

The latex ones are too soft to really do stippling with.

>>94733495
They do and they're thirsty little fuckers. If you need to absorb a lot you need to spin the sponge to dry parts pretty regularly. They will bend and curve with a little pinch or rolled into a fine tip to be precise with your cleaning.
>t. shill for Big Makeup Sponge
>>
>>94733511
Yup. I mixed Castelan green, bugmans glow and a dash of pink. I then increased the ratio of pink for the raised areas
>>
>>94732572
>crimson rosella
damn beautiful bird, i’ll give this a try
>>
Dollar store is selling cheap makeup brush packs. I might pull the trigger on them as I’ve heard they’re good for dry brush and stippling. What other uses for them besides that and how do I k ow if the bristles are right for the job besides being stiff?
>>
>>94733797
I got some for dusting before getting into painting
They might be too soft since I think normal dry brushes are made of goat hair but it might be workable
>>
>>94733806
>for dusting
You know what that’s actually a good use for the bigger one in the pack if nothing else. Thanks anon.
>>
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I let my airbrush sit in a drawer for some years and now it's clogged to hell and back with hard water buildup. Is there any hope of getting it cleaned up and unclogged without damaging the parts? ie: can't use acids here.

>replacement nozzles for a 9 year old airbrush cost the same as a brand new airbrush + extra parts today
surely the answer isn't just to upgrade? or buy a chinese made 12 dollar airbrush for now?
>>
>>94733797
>What other uses for them besides that
Experiment and find out.

>and how do I k ow if the bristles are right for the job besides being stiff?
Dunno if there is much more to it than that. Well, there is the overall shape of the brush, but that should be pretty obvious really. Reasonable size, suitable bristle length (for the stiffness mostly), and more of a rounded ball end that a pointy tip.

>>94733817
How, did you periodically soak the drawer with tap water or something?
>>
>>94733846
>How, did you periodically soak the drawer with tap water or something?
It must not have been totally dry when it was stored, and I must have run out of distilled water at the time. It's hard to say what I was thinking several years ago aside from I vaguely recall it getting clogged back then too.
>>
Odd question
Anyone know of good snippers/scissors for popsicle sticks?
I can score them and slice them, but if I can just go *snip* that'd be nice
>>
>>94733896
Unironically garden snips.
>>
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Burrows and Badgers is CUTE!

Only started most of the colour blocking and whatnot but they're so fun already
>>
>>94733909
>garden snips
Good idea, thanks anon
>>
A 3D printed mini I got 4 years ago exploded because it had a sealed void full of uncured resin.
The uncured resin poured out in the storage box and reacted with the standard black plastic bases the other minis it was with were sitting on causing them to melt.
I spent the day cleaning out the box and assessing damage. Left it out in the sun all day to cure the resin and see if I could salvage anything.
Final tally: 23 bases lost, the one large robot mini that exploded gone.
All the rest of the minis were fine, despite being a mix of PVC, Reaper Bones plastic and 3D printer resin.
The lesson, go drill a drainage hole in all your larger 3D printed minis right now.
>>
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>>94729828
>>
Who is a good/reliable online seller in the US for paints?
>>
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>>94733955
Based anon, good to see someone else who plays Burrows and Badgers
>>
>>94734094
Pics or I call bullshit
>>
>>94732205
What next?
>>
>>94732996
Nice
>>
>>94734094
Did a car next door also explode?
>>
>>94733817
Can't you soak it in.. what removes calcium build up the best? Vinegar or something?
>>
>>94734094
Don't print large mini's solid? Also, what kind of resin would melt plastic?
>>
>>94734543
any acid would damage the nozzle
>>
>>94734580
How come?
>>
>>94734560
>Also, what kind of resin would melt plastic?
Considering the "equal dissolves equal" bit... probably pretty much all of them.
>>
>>94732536
Take off your rose tinted nostalgia glasses, it was a horrible kit. Everything fit together badly, the cock rag and leather straps fell off all the time, and the fact that it came with basic bitch 3e tactical squad legs and head meant you needed to source those from another kit. Plastic sternguard and vanguard vets are much better captain builders than this thing.
>>
>>94734602
>"equal dissolves equal"
Huh? Resin is not plastic, what do you mean equal?
>>
>>94734631
>Resin is not plastic,
Oh, but it is. The "resins" we see in miniatures and scale model use (both cast and 3D printed) are plastics, specifically what's called thermosetting plastics. As for the uncured resin that isn't strictly speaking a plastic yet, that's true, but given that it's the monomers that will turn into the polymer plastic (ie the loose links that will be joined together to form the molecule chains in plastics) there's a bloody good chance that they count for "equal" here.
>>
>>94732485
I think maybe a little darker near the tips to help differentiate the beaks from the skin would look good, and as you said nothing too dissimilar.
>>
>>94734720
Then why doesn't plastic cement work on resin while it does work on the bases it melted?
>>
>>94734390
I've got the nob and specialists left to paint. Not sure which one I'm going to start with, may copy everyone else and do the burna boy, or maybe the snipa boy. We shall see, but fist they'll cure tonight and get primed tomorrow or the day after.
>>
Need some help, WIP.

My friend's birthday is coming up, he wants to get into the miniature painting hobby and I've seen anons say good things about ArmyPainter Fanatic paints.

So assuming they are as good as they say then what extra paints should I get to add alongside the AP starter set box?
So far I can only think of Pale Sand for mixing colours to a brighter colour as I read somewhere that mixing with just white can desaturate the colour while making it brighter while ivory doesn't do the desaturation that much.
Dark Tone to complement strong tone, and speedpaint medium to dilute it.

What else should I add to the birthday box?

I'm also bending one part of a paperclip and greenstuffing a "handle" around the rest of it to be used as a needle to unclog dried paint in dropper nozzles.

And lastly what (preferably plastic as he has worked with gunpla) miniature model kit should I get him as his first box?
>>
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Finished a set of 6 Reaper Bones mouseling minis for a friend's late Christmas present. Ages ago I did some of the older Reaper metal mini mouselings for them and I thought these would be a nice addition. Unfortunately Reaper Bones is complete and utter dogshit. Mold lines out the ass on rubbery plastic with barely any detail. They aren't even any cheaper than the metal minis Reaper used to make despite the absolute drop off a fucking cliff the quality dipped. AJX00
>>
Ok
>>
>>94734964
Despite your grievances with the Reaper Bones miniatures, you still pulled off the paintjob quite nicely, anon. You ought to be proud that you made it work.
Love the subtle ivory to brown colour transition on the bearded barbarian mouse helmet's horn.
How did you do it?
>>
how to paint rhino chassis without an airbrush, bros? i tried using a sponge and it looked bad, a brush and it left marks on the flat panes even very thinned out, there is all sorts of ugly unwanted textures when i try to paint vehicles that i just don't get when i paint infantry. i might have to strip all my tanks and restart
>>
>>94735010
drybush the whole thing. Can't see the brushstrokes when there are 6 gorillion of them.
>>
>>94734991
It was just wet blending with speed paints. Thin down a light brown over ivory, then switch to the full un-thinned brown, then switch to a dark brown for the tip while the paints are still wet. I didn't really put that much effort into it as there is very little chance these will ever get used. The group this guy used to do RPGs with is all over the place now and rarely gets together. This was more a gesture for a gift or I'd have chucked the minis due to poor quality and found something else.
>>
>>94735025
I first learned about drybrushing in an old White Dwarf article about painting tanks.
>>
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I cleaned off year old dust by running everything under the tap water in the kitchen sink. I have decided to fully change colour schemes after a year. I realised I wouldn't enjoy painting it, you see..
>>
>>94735129
Paint one guy start to finish in the new scheme to see if you still like it and enjoy/can tolerate the workflow. Nothing like getting halfway through a project and finding out you hate it again...I've been there friend lol.. I also got a plastic storage tub to keep my wip minis in, tall enough they can stand upright on painting handles. Helps to keep random hairs and dust off of them if I cant paint for a bit.
>>
>>94734964
I take it these are the white ones. The gray ones seem more sturdier.
>>
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Painted a space marine(didn't bother cleaning up the mold lines) and some DnD figure I picked up on a whim ages ago. Working with the basic Vallejo kit and some ancient dark angel paints.
- I fucked up and based the entire creature with the dark blue when I wanted to make the claws yellow, learned I needed to apply a flesh tone first.
- Regardless, I don't like Lemon yellow, although layering over the green gave a nice effect.
- I didn't plan colors at all and just slapped crap on there. Gonna plan out the scheme for the Malifaux figures I got before I dive into those.

Does anyone have advice on when/how to purchase paints? I know I want a better yellow, metallics, and a few more flesh tones, but am unsure if I should just walk to the GW store and buy citadel paints, look for kits that bundle what I need, or something else.
>>
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>>94735230
Good ideas thank you .. Will do a test mini in new scheme and looking for a massive tub with a lid sounds good. Will be the fourth time this guy gets repainted.. I'm just gonna commit to a scheme this time so I can have a small chance to graduate from nogames...
>>
>>94735259
look for hobby stores or game stores that aren't GW. GW paint prices have skyrocketed to ridiculous amounts and their paint pots are prone to not closing fully, leading to dried out paints. Save your money! Buy other brands.

Other brands & product lines you might look for:
>Vallejo Game Color / Vallejo Model Color (made in Spain)
>Vallejo Model Air
although they are intended for airbrushes, I find their metallics very smooth
>The Army Painter (made in Denmark)
>AK Interactive
>Reaper Master Series (made in the USA)
>Tamiya (made in Japan)

Buy from local independent hobby store if you can, or from chain stores or online if there isn't one in your area

>kits and bundles vs single paints
depends on prices. Bundles are usually good if you will use at least most of the paints in the bundle. Avoid the bundles with hundreds of paints if you are new!
Several brands sell "triad" bundles of a dark tone, mid tone, and highlight of a certain color, and these can be really nice if you plan to paint an army in those colors.

Lots of game stores probably have clearance sales on old paints right now since it's the start of the year and a few brands recently came out with new paint lines, so you might find great deals on older paints if you are lucky.
>>
>>94735259
>I know I want a better yellow,
Better get religious then, because a not shite yellow would basically demand an outright miracle.

>metallics
GW, Scale75, or Vallejo's special "Metal Color" line. Though that last one's formulated for airbrush use, so it can be rather thin to behave great with a brush, and for some reason it seems the pots have a small chance of just suddenly going bad on you for no discernable reason. They make for a beautiful finish (by acrylic metallic standards) when they work though.
>>
Skittles acquired. Can't wait to never getting around to building and painting them.
>>
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I’ve been out of the hobby for almost a decade
I’m back at it with a new army and I’m painting up Eldar using the color scheme from yugiohs iconic Dark Magician.
I know now from this test model that purple and metallic do not work, and I’ll need to go the route of a specific purple metallic or using contrasts over a silver base coat.
How would you recommend I pull off a shiny purple metallic armor with red trim?
>>
>>94735408
>how would you recommend I pull off a shiny purple metallic armor with red trim?
NMM if you are feeling confident, or specialized purple metallics if you aren't. Those weren't really a thing 10 years ago, but they are now.
>>
>>94735408
Probably best to go for a "candy coat" with a translucent purple layer on top of silver, that way you can highlight it all properly first before tinting it.
>>
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>>94735383
Thanks for the recs. I say the GW store because it's within walking distance, but I'll check out the more out of the way hobby shops for the reasons you mentioned. Sucks that the place I went to for FNM doesn't have any paints, but such is life.
>>94735402
>Better get religious then, because a not shite yellow would basically demand an outright miracle.
Yeah, I learned yesterday that yellows in model paint are more like washes. Even so, I still don't like lemon yellow.
Thanks for the metallic recs.
>>
>>94735468
bright colors like yellow, white, and bright greens and reds are very "weak" colors that take a lot of coats to get a strong color. Yellow over an mid orange or brown tends to work a lot better than yellow over black. If you plan on using yellow or white a lot, or other bright colors, consider priming in grey or white instead of black. It will save your a lot of headaches.

and always remember the wise words of saint rhodes:
>multiple thin coats are always better than one thick coat which can clog up and obscure detail
>>
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How can i make the bone to look more gory?
>>
>>94735468
What is the different between Vallejo game color and model color?
>>
>>94735591
It's eminently googleable.
>>
>>94733955
>Speed and Contrast slop
You are too talented at what you do to waste your skill with that cheap looking crap
>>
>>94735591
"The primary difference between Vallejo Game Color and Model Color is that Game Color is specifically designed for tabletop gaming, offering a more durable finish resistant to frequent handling, while Model Color is formulated for detailed model painting with a focus on realistic color palettes and a slightly thinner consistency; essentially, Game Color is meant for more robust use on game pieces, while Model Color is better suited for fine detail work on display models."
>>
>>94735656
nta but that's childish. they're just more paints, they're as good as the user
>>
>>94735582
A 1:1 mix of purple and orange acrylic ink makes a really good blood effect paint. It's pretty transparent, too, so you could run it over the "teeth" to make them look like they're erupting from the flesh. You could just run it all over the body cavity if you want, but you'd have to pick out any bits of the bone if you want them to be jutting out from the gore. Play around with it on something you've primed white and you'll see what I mean.
>>
>>94735701
I don't have ink, is there any way to make acrylic paint to act like ink?
>>
Hey /wip/! Finally had another evening to sit and build models. This unit of incursors is ready for primer! Probably won't have enough time to get them painted in time for an RTT next weekend, but at least I have made some more progress!
>>
>>94733817
What about alkaline cleaners?
>>
>>94735811
>NTA but
Isn't 99 percent iso alcohol enough of a cleaning solution when one just dumps the airbrush in a tub of the stuff and leaves it for say 12 hours?
>>
>>94734964
Is that a Red Sonja mouse?
>>
>>94735408
Metallic purple is easier, tinting silver is an option. The trim will be time consuming, because there's no shortcuts that won't look bad.
>>
>>94735582
Just slapping on some red contrast paint or a wash should work. You can only get so far without gorey chunks of meat as part of the sculpt though.
>>
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I think I'm starting to understand how to paint faces now
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I think I'm done with the crossbow dorf. Still gotta base him, but I'll do that with the rest of them. Don't think I'll bother with OSL on the lantern either.
>>
Now the yellows starting to pop a bit, time for glyphs and transfers, then some weathering.
>>
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>>94735964
Helps if I attach the photo
>>
Any good recipes for priming mdf? I have heard pva glue/primer but don't know the ratios
>>
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Here we go again.. 2025 will be the year of first 2000 ish points army fully painted. ( I swear )
>>
>>94735868
Contrast paint, xpress paint, hobby paint stuff are hella expensive here, so i can only use cheap craft paint
>>
>>94735991
If you need to seal it up I'd say just start with PVA glue watered down until it's not too much of a pain to spread all over the surface in a not ridiculously thick layer. Let dry and then just go ahead painting it however you want.
>>
>>94736025
Then get an ink I guess.
>>
Does India Ink have any use for mini painting?
>>
>>94736093
I saw a youtube video about making large amount of wash using dish soap / rinse aid / some other surfectant(?) + india ink (+ other pigment if you want). He used it for washing terrain, as an example.
>>
>>94736093
if it uses an acrylic or oil base absolutely. if it uses an alcohol base, be really careful with it as the alcohol can cause problems with acrylics underneath unless you seal it first.
>>
>>94736052
That won't gum up the laser etching? N
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>>94734560
Dont print them hollow if you cant cure the inside you meant to say.
>>
>>94734287
This. Uncured resin does not make anything "explode". It might cause a crack, but thats it.
Also resin does not react with regular plastic at all, especially not dissolving it.
>>
>>94734593
airbrush nozzles are made from brass which reacts to acids

>>94735832
isopropyl alcohol will clear a paint clog but not calcium carbonate buildup. I think my only options are to buy a new nozzle/airbrush or careful needlework to mechanically clear the clog without damaging the nozzle further. The build up all over the rest of the airbrush looks really ugly but isn't a functional problem. There is some strange discoloration on the needle too which I didn't think was possible. Is it rusting?
>>
>>94735383
>>94735259
Careful with Tamiya paints. They are not water based, so you need alcohol to clean your brush and thin your paints.
They are also intended for airbrush and applying them with a regular brush is not as easy as it is with other (water based) airbrush paints.
>>
>>94736181
From my reading, tamiya are a strange hybrid paint. Supposedly 30% water, tamiya themselves claim it to be "water based", but clearly says "FLAMMABLE" on the paint pot, which is highly irregular for a "water based" acrylic. I have some tamiya paints I haven't tried yet, so time to test out thinning them and see how it goes
>>
>>94734773
cure?
>>
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Can someone identifiy those heads? Apparently guy used "weeping statues", but I can't find shit.
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>>94736160
Not with enough water.

>>94736181
While there's clearly a bunch of some alcohol in Tamiya paints (the smell alone makes that obvious), they are still water-soluble (not very surprising, water and alcohols do tend to get along very well). A bigger issue is that said alcohol can be very harsh on underlying layers of acrylic paints, especially when combined with the rubbing of a brush it can cause significant damage in a hurry.
>>
>>94734951
Get him a start painting set that has a few paints, brush ect do not get a massive box of 30 paints, total overkill for someone just starting
Army painter is fine, every brand is much the same these days
you'll need a can of spray primer too
>>
>>94735010
same way you primed it, with a spray can, then stipling/dry brushing with a BIG brush
>>
Just talked to a psychiatrist the first time, the bitch told me I got PTSD
>painting
>till
>sunrise
>disorder
Do I want treatment? Of course not. The only dis order I got is a new box coming in tomorrow, you feel me.
>>
>>94735259
Oh no
You've summoned yellow schizo
Vallejo air metallics are the best I've seen
>>
>>94735468
Do you have a AB? spraying yellow will achieve what you want, even yellow inks will cover great in two light coats
>>
>>94735942
Looks good
>>
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>>94736211
the amount of dust everywhere and not having primed test models around kind of ruined everything so this test was useless

>unthinned
this stuff is pretty thick. Don't recommend
>thinned with water
would have been better without the dust. Mediocre result.
>thinned with isopropyl
very poor result, don't recommend

airbrush flow improver as a thinner medium might have worked but I didn't think to try it until after I had cleaned up everything
>>
>>94736165
Yeah, which you can't if they're too big.
>>
>>94736176
>airbrush nozzles are made from brass which reacts to acids
How badly?
>>
>>94736059
There are cheap chinese acrylic inks, but i don't know about their quality
>>
>>94736352
>Dezincification is a process which selectively removes zinc from an alloy, leaving behind a porous, copper-rich structure that has little mechanical strength
>>
>>94736350
Why cant you print solid?
>>
>>94736408
Because whatever you're using to cure it will have a limit to its penetration depth.
>>
>>94736408
UV light can only penetrate so far into the model. A UV flashlight doesn't cost a lot and can cure the inside of a hollow print, and is also useful in other ways, like seamlessly bonding two resin pieces together with more resin
>>
>>94733889
>It must not have been totally dry when it was stored
And that little bit of moisture somehow managed to deposit enough lime scale to fuck you over? Suuuure.

>>94736372
That some acids can ruin brass if given enough time is a very different thing from a weak acid being certain to ruin your nozzle in the timespan it takes to remove the lime scale buildup.
>>
>>94733817
>or buy a chinese made 12 dollar airbrush for now?

This.
>>
Now to start on Yarricks Nemesis

By the way, are there others like me who always paints the base first?

>>94733030
>>94734396
Thanks
>>
>>94729769
Got some movement trays done, now I need to finish building the regiments to go in them
>>
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Is using cork to wipe off the paint for dry brushing work better than kitchen towel?
>>
This Artis Opus fag has turned drybrushing into this esoteric art that it isn't.
>>
>>94733421
>>94733409
Dope. I'll switch over to those for the remainder of the grimy boys. Thanks fellas.
>>
>>94735781
Why would a knife need a blueray recorder?
>>
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>>94735254
I have a few of the gray ones and they do seem to have far more detail, but I haven't tried cleaning the mold lines off of them yet. I know Reaper Black is supposed to have better quality. Have they shifter all the newer minis over to the harder gray plastic?
>>94735859
Yes. It comes with the Conan moulding.
>>
>>94736879
I slap that dark brown over the main part of the tray too, so you don't get that white screaming at everyone the moment the tray isn't perfectly full.
>>
>>94735864
Any good recommends for a purple metallic paint?
>>
>>94736268
There were some gaps that needed filling with sprue goo, giving it a good overnight to a day for it to fully dry before I double check if anything needs to be cleaned up around where I filled. Assembling is the step where I take way too much time checking mold lines and such to save myself a headache later. Solve a problem before it becomes a problem.
>>
>>94733817
Master G233 is a workhorse with 3 needles for like 30 bucks.
>>
>>94736942
>create "problem" (make drybrushing sound more complicated than it is)
>sell "solution" (overpriced brushes)
Tale as old as time.
>>
>>94735656
I like to use them to do a basecoat to build up from, it's just a basecoat and wash in one go, like how the Shrew at the front is bought up from just an overall coat of Fur Brown
>>
>>94733421
>>94733495
Make up sponge like these are too soft, for weathering i think it's better to use harder construction sponge like this
>>
>>94737192
Purple Contrast or Speedpaint over any metallic?
>>
>>94735942
Those colors really pop. clean work.
would take as mountain guide.
>>
>>94736349
Tamiya paint is usually quite thin. You should shake a lot, and probably even stir them with a little stick if the pots are older.

My experience with them was pretty poor too to be honest, until i decided to use them for airbrush basecoats only. They usually apply very nicely that way, with or without a little bit of (vallejo, because thats what i had available when buying it) airbrush thinner.
Never made it work with a brush, and never really bothered to try it again after initial fails. There are other paints that require less work with a brush.

tl;dr I would not recommend Tamiya paint to a beginner for wargaming miniature painting.
>>
>>94737549
I linked some up further in the thread as well, that and the strip foam insulation for air conditioners is the perfect coarse texture for sponge weathering.
>>
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>>94735967
That's a good yellow.
>>
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hello /tg, decided to dig up my ancient metal miniatures of my orc and goblin tribes from almost 20 years ago and repaint them
i have borgut facebeater and nazgub pretty much finished, just need to put in the small details from the paints i picked up today
>>
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>>94737192
>>94737570
Can confirm, purple contrast over silver works pretty good for a metallic purple base. AK interactive also makes a silver metallic with a purple hue called Anodized Violet.
>>
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here is the savage orc shaman and some unnamed orc warboss riding a boar that i need to start basecoating and assembling.
the paint stripper i used for the metallic miniatures melted some fur off of the plastic boar body so i might need to gut some old orc and goblin miniatures for amor panels.
any other old/vintage model enjoyers?
>>
>>94737788
I cant speak for that mentioned AK paint (maybe its great), but i have metallic green and metallic blue from Vallejo and they are kinda meh compared to the mentioned method of painting a speed paint style paint over silver.
I should do some kind of a comparison pic.
>>
>>94737788
Looks good
The only other one I saw was turbo dork’s people eater paint but I have no experience with their line and I don’t know if it’s cheap garbage or not.
Would you recommend citadels contrast line or army painters speed paint line?
>>
>claim how apparently bad pots are
>every single photo in the thread has citadel paints in the background
Everytime
>>
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They're mediocre but they're painted. Went too heavy on the nihilakh oxide. Otherwise satisfied enough with them. Hopefully second half of the squad turns out better.
>>
>>94737192
There's metallic medium you can mix into acrylic paint to get a metallic color, but it lightens the color quite a bit so it's difficult to get sufficient metallic look on dark colors. If you use vallejo metal color duraluminium or alumnium you can mix acrylic ink into it to get really vibrant mixes, added benefit that you can mix a batch and jar it if you're doing a whole army. Contrast or glazing over metallic as suggested is also an option. It really depends on the tools that you have and the workflow that you prefer, a perfect chance to try out multiple methods on some test minis and iron out the details.
>>
>>94738117
incredibly midwit take
>>
airbrush unclogged by using the specialized tools specifically made for that purpose that I forgot I had a spare of. only slightly injured my hand with the pointy bits, but it will be ok
>>
>>94734094
That's what you get for buying chinese
>>
>>94738214
there was no take
>>
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>>94738117
all of mine except for washes are transferred to droppers, try again
>>
>>94738117
This is not a difficult line of thought, moron-kun.
>buy citadel paints because some of them are nice
>keep them in their sealed pots until I use them for a first time
>then rebottle
simple as.
>>
Is there a better way to get citadel paints into an airbrush than using a brush? It feels so wasteful as so much paint just gets lost on the brush
>>
>>94738374
Literally the post above yours.
>>
>>94738384
Too much work
>>
>>94737896
That Spyder, along with all my necrons, I actually used a standard acrylic thinned to a contrast consistency. That specific purple is AK interactive blue amethyst. If you are looking for a similar color and effect from a contrast, try luxion purple over a bright silver base.
>>
>>94738271
You just had to post a very 'smart observation'.
>>
>>94738374
>put thinner in airbrush
>put paint in airbrush
>mix both with brush
>>
Anyone got experience with making your own transfer sheets? Trying to make one of all the chapters I plan to run in a Deathwatch army.
>>
>>94738631
LASERPRINTERS DONT PRINT WHITE
KEEP THAT IN MIND
>>
>>94738237
You've more than likely damaged your airbrush more by using those than by pouring a bit of vinegar into it.
If you don't have a super specific airbrush the nozzle is most likely not brass either.
>>
He's angry
>>
>>94736288
Thank you!
>>
>>94736942
MFs are really so scared of the airbrush that they'd rather spend hundreds on glorified dollar store makeup brushes. For shame.
>>
I may have cracked it.
scribing tools for removing moldlines on the inside curves of stupid ridged tubes/plasma-gun type parts.
>>
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I want to get back into the painting game, it always terrified me, but my greytiding has been source of great shame. So I have a silly question.
How many shades/color is healthy amount, in general? Enough to work with, be reasonably well stocked and learn to mix properly, but few enough not to overspend like a madman? I have some paints I bought for project years back and it's something monumentally stupid, like 5 shades of yellow, another 5 of orange*red, gajillion metallics and near zero blues and similarly nonsensical results of focus on buying paints over actually using them.
>>
>>94739476
Lad, that entirely depends on what you want to paint.
>>
>>94739535
What if you don't really have clearly laid out paintscheme, GW-style, and you'll need to experiment?
>>
How can this little fucker be so cute
>>
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I took a break during the holidays. Now I’m back, and I’ve almost finished my British army. After that, I’m starting a new Warhammer project.
>>
>>94739613
Two options
>buy starter sets now but inevitably overspend on paints you don't need
>come up with paint scheme, then spend money on paints you will actually use
>>
Happy with the belly I think maybe should darken the underside a bit more.
What do we think about the lips?
>>
>>94739713
>What do we think about the lips?
I'd tone them down just a little bit.
>>
>>94739713
It's the most saturated thing so far, might want to tone it down if you don't want it to be the focal point of the model.
>>
Bros I’m gonna to try out the ap light skin tone paints. Wish me luck.
>>
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Should I double dip and bite the bullet?
>>
>>94739910
Terrible bottles, you'll wish they were pots.
>>
>>94739652
Who cares how many paints you own anon? Think about what you want to paint, and get the paints. Nobody comes to your home and judges you because you own 5 different yellows or 30 different shades of red. If you happen to find some future projects to use them on, fine. If not, use one of each and the rest will dry in a decade or so. If anything, you won't have to buy another yellow or red for a long time.
Don't fucking overthink it, just paint.
You are already looking for excuses why you should rather not paint something by busying yourself with this bullshit.
>>
>>94739945
Was meant for >>94739476
>>
>>94739623
Love the skin, please share your recipie.
>>
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>Dropped resin model onto the floor
>fiddly bits have shattered and are currently missing
At least I'd only primed it and hadn't started painting yet I guess
>>
>>94740236
while i was priming 50 or so guardsmen a gust of wind blew them off the table and a bunch of them that had their metal heads break off and 5 of are missing barrels on their las rifles.
>>
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Anybody have experience with these? They seem like they could be great for highlighting
>>
>>94739915
I've never had issues with them, sounds like a skill issue
>>
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So what's the practical difference between Black Legion and Black Templar contrast paints if they're both meant to be black? Is one of them just cooler/warmer than the other?
>>
>>94739994
Thanks! I use;
>Base coat with Golden Olive or Deathguard Green
>Wash with biel tan green
>Glaze highlightsnwith a mix of base + biel tan green
>Glaze highlights with base color
>Glaze highlights with mix of base color + ogryn camo
>Glaze highlights with ogryn camo
>Nose and ears is a mix of ogryn camo + some purple
>>
>>94740313
Black Legion is like a BLACK black. It's really dark and strong while Black Templar is a lot weaker and also has a blue hue to it. I'm sure you can find a swatch of contrasts somewhere online to see how both of these look
>>
Confirming that this anon is correct >>94740332
>>
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Made a bit of progress. Used a panel liner this time for recess shading instead of carefully applied acrylic wash I did before. Now I feel like it's a lot less neat and too dark but I don't feel like repainting this guy from scratch
>>
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Anyone got any good guides on how to make such high quality chipping?
>>
>>94740508
That looks like pretty standard chipping to me. Probably just a brown sponge on whatever colour that metal is.
>>
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>>94740236
Lost one of the really tiny hand for this lad and it still feels bad years later
>>
>>94739915
They're dead simple to use.
>shake bottle
>tap the bottom on the table
>wait 30 seconds
>open
>>
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Testing an army viable base scheme for my skitarii. In practice I'll add some skulls and clutter but their bases are pretty tiny so it's going to be pretty minimal stuff.
>>
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>>94740332
>>94740402
A curiosity search for a swatch leads to a guy on Leddit who used the contrast range on most GW spray cans. I guess this checks out, like holy shit even Retributor Armour gets almost entirely nuked of color by Black Legion.

It's good that someone already did such homework, since my intention was considering if anything interesting could be done with some miniatures already sprayed gold. But something like black with some tinge of a metallic gold sheen might be out of the question between these unless such an effect is more prominent in person.
>>
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Trims are hell I wish there was just a good alpha legion turquoise metallic acrylic I could use instead of hoping really hard that the speedpaint doesn't dry looking bad and having to fix every trum along the way hoping I don't slip and get steel on the blue armor
>>
>>94740570
The texture looks neat, what did you use?
I've been struggling to come up with a minimalistic recipie like this.
>>
>>94740785
I literally use black legion just as a paint that flows well. You have to thin it a surprising amount to get it to act sort of like a normal contrast paint.
>>
>>94740508
I got some AK weathering pencils. I figured I could use them to draw where I want the chipping. Guess what. They wash off. Use a sponge ripped up and some paint.
>>
Can speedpaints be used for muzzle burn on barrels and smokestacks or are their properties too runny for the job?
Asking because acrylic washes these days are trying to emulate oils and enamels by staining less
>>
>>94740788
Base covered in superglue, sprinkle some sand, sprinkle lesser amount of larger sand, and then cover most of the rest with baking soda to blend it in with the flat surface. Just primed black and drybrushed with greys. This plus some extra clutter, maybe a slightly bigger rock here and there on some of the bases I think'll look pretty good for an army-painter level job.
>>
>>94740786
word of advice from a fellow chaos enjoyer get a size 1 liner/script brush. its long and skinny with a sharp tip that holds a ton of paint so you can bang out long sections of trim in one stroke without needing to grab more paint. it really speeds up trim jail.
>>
>>94741024
seems promising I'll look into it
>>
>>94738133

These are tight as fuck. Good job bro.
>>
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>>94740858
Apparently yes:
>https://www.youtube.com/shorts/OgRMmTMWLd8
>>
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I might do camo uniforms instead on the guys with these metal helmets and short lasguns. What do you guys think?
>>
Is using two spraycans to do zenithal highlighting fine
or is it a waste and I should just prime it black with a spraycan then drybrush white from above?
>>
>>94741448
It's fine.
>>
>>94741232
Thanks!
Now for me to find the right speedpaints for the job.
>>
>>94741472
guess I'll buy a white spraycan then, thanks
>>
>>94741513
Be sure to test any spray cans out first before committing to accidentally ruining your minis with unstrippable paint.
>>
>>94741552
yeah I'll try white scar since its very white and the contrast will probably look nicer
>>
>>94729828
Is that cum?
>>
>>94740811
Guess I'll have to get some pots and experiment with both washes and shades accordingly, trying to see if I can turn gold into other cool colors including one of those contrast blacks. Perhaps some praesidium shields lying about will act as decent test pieces.
>>
>>94741248
What kind of pattern were you thinking? As long as it's easy enough to replicate on a bunch of dudes it could look good.
>>
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>>94742071
something like this probably
>>
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>>94741512
Seraphim Sepia, Leviathan Purple, and Drakenhof Nightshade is what I do. Some people do a black on the very tip, but I haven't tried it yet
>>
>>94741248
I'd say keep it simple, you're going to be doing a lot of dudes most likely.
Keep the pattern large and coarse, so you have room to shade and highlight all colours properly.
Do shade and highlight quite hard, much of miniature painting is about enhancing the shape of the sculpt, while camouflage is trying to do the exact opposite. We want the former to win here.
Also keep in mind that most camouflage patterns run two or more colours in roughly equal amount,s with no single colour being the dominant. Stick to that and it'll look more like real camouflage and less like little Timmy slapping something together. (Not to say that we don't see any of the "lazy" kind in reality too, but it tend to look like arse there.)
If yuo do mroe than two colours, try to keep some shapes going across multiple ones. Like on your example how the tan shape in its upper right bit has a border against the green below it that isn't interrupted by the green going from light to dark to light again. (This becomes especially important if one's foolish enough to splinter camo.)
>>
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>>94742071
>>94742287
This shit is not easy
>>
>>94742387
That looks pretty good though.
I didn't reply to you but I didn't have high expectations if I'm being honest.
>>
>>94740785
The state of... Evropa...
>>
>>94740567
>wait 30 seconds every time you open a paint bottle unless you want a paint facial
Even GW pots are superior to this hipster brand.
>>
>>94742598
You know they know too because they offer 2 other lids you can buy that are both better.
I'm pretty sure that they're waiting until they use their stock and then they'll swap over to just using the pointy dropper lids, because it keeps their brand image and people don't fucking hate them. The flip top lids are also way better, but they look too different than the brand they've established.
>>
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>>94742403
I think i need to use something more brown than zandri dust. I was hoping that sepia wash would do more than it did for the color.
>>
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Not very impressed with today's job. Got a bit rushed and tilted at the end and gave up on the NMM dagger and the silver sigils didn't come out well so I'll probably go back in the future and get rid of them or go over them in white or something. It's alright overall though.
>>
>>94742701
you should try to find a ultra fine tip silver pen
>>
>>94742706
Yeah I was using my smallest metallic brush because I don't want to get metallics in my good brushes, but wasn't worth it in the end. I also started to rush it because it was so faint at first instead of building it up steadily.
>>
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Finally posting my gift from one of the kindest anons on here, Brother Craig himself.
I always look forward to our yearly gift exchange we established, and your thoughtfulness is always appreciated. Some Mk IV marines, Christmas gobbo, a cool Warhammer Citadel bag and of course Buc-ees goodeez. Plus the official Johnny sticker! Our lad even added some hot chocolate for the wife and a toy for the baby.
Thanks TX anon, you are truly the man. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.
The marines may end up as Emperor's Childrento go with my Leviathan
>>
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>>94742740
And the always excellent Johnny from the card!
>>
>>94740811
It's from that 2nd generation of contrast that is not really contrast any more.
>>
>>94742666
They've used these lids for years. They'd have run out of those by now. They're staying.
Archive X uses the same type of lid but with a transparent bit at the top which makes it easier to see where the paint is. Maybe that would help you.
Like other anon said, it's a skill issue. I've been using them for years and there is absolutely nothing wrong with their dropper bottles.
And the paint formulation is fantastic.
>>
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Big recast order came in today and I'm seriously impressed with the quality of these terminators. Almost zero flash, no gaps to fill and perfect detailing. They even came on a sprue which I've never seen before on resin models.
>>
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Practically late but I'm close to finishing this one. Any recommendations on what to color the scarf?
>>
I'm trying to build a range of AK paints, these are ones in my cart currently

Hull Red
Scarlet Red
Matt Red
Clear Red
Emerald Metallic Green
Intermediate Green
Mint Green
Lime Green
Alga Green
Green-Grey
Dark Green
Faded Green
Fluorescent Green
Interior Yellow Green
Yellow
Deep Yellow
Fluorescent Yellow
Lemon Yellow
Radiant Yellow
Luminous Flesh
Amethyst Blue
Ultramarine
Clear Blue
Deep Blue
Black

I paint orcs that's why there are so many green.

Are there any I'm missing that I should get?
>>
>>94743322
Depends on what paints you already own, dont you think?
>>
>>94743276
Green, red, or brown.
>>
>>94743336
Aside from a few speedpaints, basically none
>>
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Thoughts? Supposed to be a jungle-esque base
>>
>>94743322
Just buy their CMYKRGBW starter set.
Unless you really hate mixing at which point I'd just pick exactly the colours you want on your finished model.
>>
>>94743368
gonna be honest anon I don't really read this as jungle
>>
>>94743390
Yeah, i think you’re right, no idea how to make this work on such tiny bases
>>
>>94743470
Use some reference images. Jungle floors are damp and have a lot of foliage
>>
>>94743368
If you fill the lower part with some resin (and muddy color) you can have a pretty nice pond base.
>>
>>94743368
>>94743470
I'm thinking maybe some creeping vines and ferns might do it? also as much as I love the red stone and green grass playing off eachother, it could probably use some moss on the rock as well.
>>
>>94743322
From what i can see, you lack a decent browns for leather, straps, cloth etc.
Then you need at least a gunmetal. Maybe some kind of a brass/coopery metal too? Gold?

White, Grey, Bone Colour.
>>
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>>94736307
Come on, not a single (You)?
I thought the
>dis order
line was pretty clever.
>>
>94743554
>94736307
k
>>
>>94743554
tbqh, I saw it and laughed, but was too fucked up to come up with any response and just passed the fuck out instead
>>
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Amazing! Thank you Fort Worth anon! I had to fight the useless UPS goons but it arrived!
World Eater Johnny card
An amazing selection of Buccees, my visiting old man stole the peanut brittle already
3 Old school river trolls that will join my expanding host of Night Goblins for the old world, I love these models so much.
Also some world eaters dice
a USB stick full of /wip/ goodies
Chaos collectable coin and finally a selection of Duncans 2-thin coat paints that I'm going to use right away.
Thank you for the generosity
Always motivated to hobby hard after the SS exchange. Thank you again
>>
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>>94743578
Johnny?
Kharny?
Khnny?
>>
Is it true that new vallejo model color lineup worse than old ones? I've heard rumors that they've changed them significantly, and I'm curious what the deal is, I haven't had to buy any new ones yet.
>>
>>94743612
Depends if you think new game color is better or worse than the old ones.
>>
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I'm trying to make some decent looking shipping containers out of some not!Lego containers i have. I figured i could hide the majority of the studs at the top with some tarps.

Pic related, what do you think? Does it look like some tarp? Or should i try a different paper for better effect? right now its a regular napkin soaked in water/woodglue and then dried over night.
>>
>>94743670
I really like those, anon.
>>
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Just found out that the first half of my secret santa gift is soon about to be posted. Getting very excited
>>
>>94743691
are you psychic or something
>>
>>94743528
>>94743493
ordered some coconut fibre to imitate the ground and i already have some lasercut plants

>it could probably use some moss on the rock as well.
guess ill drybrush some moot green on top of the rock(s) to imitate that?

>>94743511
don't have any resin unfortunately
>>
>>94743891
moot green is too bright/yellowish I feel. Maybe use some more muted and natural looking green, like an olive green?
>>
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90%~ done.

Need to do something with the ponytail, not sure what. Not very happy with the blood.

feedback appreciated.
>>
>>94743969
I think the blood would look better if there were some on the sword as well?
>>
>>94742598
So you're a child without patience, got it. This hobby may not be for you.
>>
>>94743969
>'My guiding moonlight. .'
/10
>>
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>>94743709
>are you psychic or something
"I can crush your bones and pulp your flesh with but a thought. What is the power of technology compared to that?"
>>
>>94744447
>>rebbit
>>
>>94742740
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year, OKC-anon. I figured you didn't need ("need" is a tricky word in this hobby) too many more models for your Storm Heralds army, but a squad of Mk IVs for your Emperor's Children should fit right in.

>>94743578
Merry Christmas, Becks. Hope your father is feeling better, and gets some good mileage out of that peanut brittle!

>>94743584
I'd already done Sons of the Phoenix, and was inspired when I saw your absolutely smashing World Eaters army.

I took hints from both the original Second Edition Kharn and the newer plastic one to make "Johnny the Betrayer"... plus I always chuckle to myself when I think about actor Richard Karn, and had seen something in the media recently about Tim Allen's discussing a reboot of Home Improvement where Karn played his sidekick.
>>
>>94744648
You need to drill Richard's barrel.
>>
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>>94743709
The delivery drivers, the border controll agents, even the postmaster general... they all work for me
>>
New thread:

>>94744993
>>94744993
>>94744993
>>
>>94738631
I’ve tried a few brands of the cheaper Amazon paper and never got good results. The decals I have can be passable if I keep them really simple, like one color, not super detailed… and very carefully place them. Something like just a basic blood angel Icon for the pauldrons. If you already have a decent printer it’s worth a shot for 10$. But if you don’t, or are looking for very crisp/detailed results… I would poke around on Etsy or EBay and see if you can find what you need… or find someone who will print a custom file you send them on better transfer paper.
>one tip
A coat of varnish sprayed on the sheet can help with application I find. Can use a glossy varnish or matte… doesn’t matter.. but it helps the transfer stay flat. Cheaper transfer papers have a tendency to curl up/rip/or warp very easily. If you get decent results post them tho, maybe you end up finding a good method I couldnt
>>
>>94741248
I would start with the pants and if you don't want to kill yourself by the end, do the jackets too
>>
>>94743368
Currently reads as savannah to me. Looks really good though
>>94743322
>>94743543
Seconding this



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