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Welcome to /diy/, a place to:

Post and discuss /diy/ projects, ask questions regarding /diy/ topics and exchange ideas and techniques.

Please keep in mind:
- This is a SFW board. No fleshlights or other sex toys.
- No weapons. That goes to /k/ - Weapons. The workmanship and techniques involved in creating objects which could be used as weapons or the portion of a weapons project that involves them (e.g., forging steel for a blade, machining for gunsmithing, what epoxy can I use to fix my bow) may be discussed in /diy/, but discussing weapon-specific techniques/designs or the actual use of weapons is disallowed. Things such as fixed blade knives or axes are considered tools, things such as swords, guns or explosives are considered weapons.
- No drugs or drug paraphernalia (See Global Rule 1). If you want to discuss something that could involve such things (e.g., carving a tobacco pipe from wood) that's fine, but make sure it's /diy/ related and doesn't involve drugs or it will result in deletion/ban.

Helpful links:
https://sites.google.com/site/diyelmo/ (archived)
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/
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>>
Some friendly suggestions for posting:
- First ask Google, then ask /diy/. Your question will probably be better received if you do so.
- List available resources (tools, materials, budget, time, etc.)
- Try to use pictures and explain the goal, if possible
- Be patient, this is a slow board; your thread will be around for days.
- Share your results! /diy/ loves to see problems solved and projects completed!

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explain Septic System to me like I'm a bitch.

Shouldn't there be an "Oh fuck" overflow outlet, like before even the first tank, so it can never back up into the house? I've heard of Septics overflowing into house. Is that illegal because your System has to work so you don't spread shit, so having it "sealed" is the way you are forced to have a valid system?

I'm thinking if I got a place out in the sticks I'd want to add an RV hook up out from under the house, and I guess I could also add an extra Y so I could connect a hose which could lead to an emergency over-flow gravity fed line.

WTF happens if your System is OK, but suddenly under fairly sustained excessive use? Will it most likely drain OK, but "water" not treated and live turd germs into Leach Field, and how bad is that and do people get in trouble for it? Does it start showing up in your neighbors well water and you get sued and a shitty rep?

Seems like any well designed system would include that, and into a normally dry pond or covered hole or French Drain or something.

I also saw diagram of a "solid state" dosing system that somehow worked without any pumps. IIRC it had a float and valve on a hinge on an angled arm so the valve would stay closed until "water" level well above it, then would open and drop level to well below float level. Seems simple and fool proof. WTF with pump systems. Seems like opening a big valve would be better than some little pump (that will be not just going on fritz but in the shit).
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>>2963887
>but for some reason it dried up....only about a week after the county connected their home to the public sewer system. Hmmmmmmm
dats ah goot van

I'm gonna use that as "back ground chat" in my next movie script.
>>
>>2963887
>this kind lady called saying her family was on a well for a long time, but for some reason it dried up....only about a week after the county connected their home to the public sewer system. Hmmmmmmm
So the public sewer system started pulling from the well?
>>
>>2965241
No. Waste water was going into the sewer and not to the leach field and then to the well.
>>
>>2965241
>So the public sewer system started pulling from the well?
fresh water pipes are pressurized so if there is a leak the fresh water leaks out. Sewer lines are not pressurized and gravity drained so if ther is a leak it wont leak or at least not leak much. Their speptic system and fresh water well was actually hydraulically connected. The pumped groundwater (shower, cooking, drinking, washing) was discharged to the sewer system and back to the groundwater and pulled back into the well. This is not what you want. If it does happen you want the residence time to be long enough such that the natural microbes in the vadose zone and groundwater digest sufficiently any harmful microbes in the water before its pulled back into the drinking water system. The likely got used to all the bacteria like poor people in locations with bad sanitary practices. Since their well drired up soon after their sewer water was taken away by the county sewer system their groundwater supply was insuffient to supply the house. Its amazing how many people have wells and never monitor them for water quality or to run an occasional pump test to confirm proper operation.
>>
>>2965537
I'm worried about all this shit (pardon pun) because I'm looking at buying cheap rural house that mostly haven't been lived in for a month or more, or even a few weeks. I'm thinking a few dormant weeks would allow many issues to self-heal, at least enough to pass a quick test of well water pump rate/water quality, and septic.

I'm starting to wonder how many cheap rural houses are for sale due to major issues starting to surface that will cost $50K in a couple years, but given some rest the system still passes basic tests.

Its not like trying to sue some old Hillbilly who spent all the money a year ago, and is probably semi-nomadic in an RV, would be practical.

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>>2963082
Whats different other than cheaper shittier materials.
Old houses are not cheap. Its all built for artifical scarcity of investor class.
You can live 100 year old house but you cant build the same thing today because of "safety". Its a laughable concept.
>>
>>2963006

nice.
2017/18 i stumbled into a building that was set to be demolished so the foundation could be re-used. it was a 3 story stick frame unfinished barn/garage attached to a small house. Permission was granted basically immediately when I asked to take it apart and some pretty deep soul searching followed. I got about 2 stories, the roof, and a lot of interior before the excavators came.

My ex sued me in 2021 for my house i bought with her, I built my current house during covid while i defended myself till they settled and paid me, finished the septic this year.

every time i post about it people give me shit for "taking so long"
worthless fuckin place, largely

but occasionally theres like an ok thread or two. mostly come here just to be mean so i can be nice to people irl.
>>
>>2960752
fortunately not, its a bitch ass job.
but i have done every part of it. me and my family doubled the size of our cabin, i tore down and rebuildt my apartment, i have worked in construction, i have done it all. building a house is kind of a common skill for norwegian rurals, its straight out expected of you to know it. you might not be the best at anything, you might be a framer kind of guy, but your friends might be roofer or plumber and together you finish a house in a week.
house i currently live in was self-buildt in the late 50s and im gonna rebuild it all with time.
>>
four chan says im doing the captcha wrong and it's lying
>>
>>2962951
Here's a specific question:
With the intention of cutting costs, which tasks in house-building could an average guy do, and which tasks should be left to professionals?

Thread got out of sync:
>>2957310

>I'm new to electronics. Where to get started?
It is an art/science of applying principles to requirements.
Find problem, learn principles, design and verify solution, build, test, post results, repeat.
Read the datasheet.

>OP source:
https://github.com/74HC14/ohmOP
bake at page 10, post in old thread

>Comprehensive list of electronics resources:
https://github.com/kitspace/awesome-electronics


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>>2965638
Not him, but that’s four times what I spent on my soldering station. I think binocular microscopes are the way to go for soldering with them because of the lack of latency (along with a fume extractor), while digital systems are at least more cost effective for inspection and allow you to take nice macro photos. What zoom levels are you finding useful? 90 seems kinda overkill.

I’ve been wanting to make a digital microscope moving arm, with a lamp and fume extracting duct built in, and some diy rotatable polarised discs for the light and microscope. But I suspect I’d need the same kind of rigid mount for the microscope camera as your optical system, as opposed to a more mobile swinging arm like I’d want for a lamp. A wider depth of field isn't really an option at such extreme zoom levels. But I guess it is an option to try to make a highly rigid locking articulated arm, so long as it has a few mm of fine focal adjustment for the microscope itself. Maybe counterweights too.
>>
>>2965692
>Maybe counterweights too.
It would be cooler if it was stabilized with a gyroscope.
>>
>>2965693
Gyro would work for rotational stability, but that's easy to do with rigid mounting on linear guide rails. It's more the linear stabilisation that's important. And if you're fighting against gravity with a gyro on a cantilever, you need one of those active gyro mechanisms that measures the precessive force and uses that connected to a motor.
>>
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>>2965646
much better to not be poor.
>>
Is the Digilent 410-380 microSD Card Slot compatible with the ESP32 S3? The supply voltage is indicated as a range from 2.7 V to 3.6 V. I'm pretty new to electronics, so I have the need to ask before buying a unit (link for details: https://mou.sr/4qhBqdy)

Previous Thread: >>2928655

Here we discuss microcontrollers (MCUs), single board computers (SBCs), and their accessories, such as Atmel mega and tiny AVRs (Arduinos), PICs, ARM boards such as blue/black pill STM32, ESP8266/32s, RP2040, Raspberry Pi, and others.

For general electronics questions (power supplies, level shifting, motor driving, etc.) please ask /ohm/.

>where can I find verified quality microcontrollers and other electronic sensors or parts
digikey.com
mouser.com
arrow.com
newark.com

>but that's too expensive
aliexpress.com (many parts here are fake, particularly specific parts out of stock in the above sites)
lcsc.com

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>>2965698
Maybe i'm bad at asking questions. Basically i'm just asking how a two level signal (uart) normally gets transported over a three-level bus (rs485). My solution was just send the zero bits then. Anyway.
>>2965713
>>
>>2965716
To get the tri-level output, you'd wire up an MCU pin to the enable pin of the RS485 driver half of the transceiver IC and that should work. You can probably actually use a UART hardware flow control pin to control the driver's enable input directly, as opposed to needing to bit-bang it. I don't see any need not to always enable the receiving hardware.
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>>2965721
Yes but when you just have a tx/rx coming out of something to work with then it's another story
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>>2965723
Ah so you have an existing UART signal and you want to send it across RS485? Where's the signal coming from? You could likely use a 555 timer or similar to enable the transceiver's output for a bit more than a full packet's width. I don't think it matters for the strict UART-speaking thing for it to sense when the bus is idle or not, maybe you'd want a pull-down resistor to ensure the default state is a zero when it's idle if the IC doesn't assert either way.
>>
>>2965723
>>2965740
Oh and either way, if it's just designed to produce UART, it won't be able to respond to a bus collision. If it ever tries to transmit data onto the bus while something else already started, the data will get jumbled for both packets.

Due to personal circumstances, im currently living in a tiny bedroom with barely any space for anything. I have a desk, a nighstand, and my clothes mostly go under the bed in a plastic container
What are some tips and tricks for taking full advantage of such a small space? I was thinking of getting a custom-built shelf on top of the bed for storing some stuff, and then a tiny custom made bookshelf that fits the corner since theres a pillar right next to it
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>>2964737
when in a studio apartment I got a bunk bed frame and used the top for storage
not great for getting laid though, bitches are not hyped on the bunk bed
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>>2964737
>making the fire extinguisher white so it will blend in
Bad move
>>
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>>2965156
holy shit
>>
Someone should post that webm about a dude renting 1x1 meter room in New York.
>>
>>2964737
I’m surprised no one has posted those Chinese videos yet.

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Stupid questions that don't deserve their own thread. Last one hit bump limit
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>>2965082
WTF do I Google to find a replacement hinge /pivot bit?
I got 2x 2nd hand Ikea stools a while ago and the plastic hinges are dying and died on one. There's a pin at the top of each leg that I might need to replace with a recessed nut or something. I'm assuming something involving a coach bolt fixes this
I'll prolly pull them apart refinish the wood and replace those pivots
>>
>>2965612
>No Parkside performance
Haram list.
>>
>>2965612
how often do you do projects? what kinds of projects? anyway the kit with the most all-around performance is
>hammerdrill and impact driver combo
covers everything from drilling concrete to putting in tapcons to countersinking wood and putting in a screw. i consider this one tool.
>saw (pick your adventure)
initially i was going to say jigsaw, if you set up a guide it can rip wood. it can cut curves. you can cope molding with it. extremely versatile tool. that being said, making ripping cuts with a jigsaw is kinda retarded and you should be using a table/track saw. if you want a combo recommendation it would be track saw and jigsaw. if you set your track saw up correctly you can use it to do compound miters like you would with a miter saw. your standard "you should buy these first" saws are and always will be a double bevel miter saw and a table saw if you are doing woodwork. if you just want one tool for basic use, a circular saw can do almost everything other than clean curves and coping and miters. so i guess circular saw is where to start and buy a jigsaw if you want to cut curves.
>grinder
it can cut everything the circular saw can't. if you are cutting metal it is necessary. you can also use it as an aggressive sander if you get the pads for it. you can also use it with a cup wheel to smooth masonry surfaces. very versatile tool.
>oscillating multitool
great for cutting drywall, cutting wood, cutting metal. on the jobsite i hear "what did we do before we had these?" said about this tool frequently. blade choice matters. all purpose bosch blades are the best I have used (they say nail embedded wood on the pack but they suck for this) but when you are doing something really dumb the carbide blades turn this into a real problem solver on a bunch of different material types.
>compressor+18ga brad nailer+air nozzle
compressed air is great, being able to stick stuff together with a nail gun before you put in screws is really handy.
>>
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>>2965717
brand only really matters for battery systems and hard use systems. i use milwaukee for battery stuff and festool/mafell/mirka for my corded stuff. i spend a lot of money on tools because i use them to make money and they make me a good amount of money so cost doesn't really matter to me, i buy whatever i think is the "best" tool for whatever i am using it for.

>festool
makes everything and it has sexy storage boxes and you can flex on the poors with your shiny tools you never use. it has a great warranty service too, but you will never use it because you have to work these tools really hard for them to break.
>milwaukee
huge step down from festool both in price and quality, but they have some things which stand out to me. the only reason i use milwaukee battery tools is the Surge impact driver which has oil in with the anvil and that makes it quiet. i absolutely love this and think it is a great innovation. their multitool is also head and shoulders above the other "home depot/lowes" brands, that fucker rips. they also make every fucking tool out there so i even have a milwaukee electric grease gun.
>dewalt
used to be the gold standard for tools but their new shit doesn't keep up with milwaukee's new shit. that being said, their miter saw and table saw are the best "home depot" level options
>bosch
i have their gravity rise table saw and have been running it hard for 7 years, it's still going strong. their weak spot is their battery tools IMO. every single bosch battery i had has now failed and won't even take a charge. the impact driver i had from them had the "speed select" button break and now it's useless. i would avoid them for battery stuff.
>metabo
i would only buy a made in germany corded grinder from them. prior to the bosch drill/driver i had a metabo drill (made in germany) that had battery issues and speed select issues (basically same problems as bosch).
>ryobi
i break their stuff when i use it
>>
>>2965651
that would be my preference but the screw for the handle is like corrosion welded into the valve. won't budge

Does anybody actually like using these? I fucking hate them

Is there any alternative other than a really sharp razor blade and 4 extra hours of my life?
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>>2956475
calm down ted.
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>>2955658
I don't know why those dogshit Bosch routers are so popular.
The base is some chink metal that instantly gets fucked from the indexing pin and then the base is jammed on the motor housing. The height adjustment is janky as fuck too.

This is one of my favorite tools.
>>
I wish I could get one of these in my shop.
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>>2965732
im sure aliexpress has a cheap one waiting for you anon
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>>2965736
...anon i...

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Backpacker's Folding J-Pole edition
https://www.bridgingagap.com/Emergency%20Preparedness/Emergency_Communications/Information_files/Backpackers%20j-pole.pdf

Previous: >>2952430

>New to /ham/? Read this shit!
http://www.arrl.org/what-is-ham-radio
https://www.fcc.gov/wireless/bureau-divisions/mobility-division/amateur-radio-service
>Your search engine of choice works well too!

>The wiki is down but is archived
https://archive.is/PjR5s
>NEW FAQ is updated to preview 15
https://files.catbox.moe/aftx43.htm


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>>2965163
That sounds more like synchronous AM. Never used it myself but sources suggest it is useful during fading.
>>
>custom antenna on roof gets worse reception to local 2m repeater than stock antenna handheld held out window
you know, i took down an unused tv antenna to put this antenna on its pole
we didn't use that tv antenna because the reception from the local mountain was blocked by some big trees, and use satellite tv instead
the repeater is on the same mountain as the tv antenna
i am a moron
>>
If usps doesn't deliver my antenna tomorrow that was supposed to be delivered Wednesday I am going to kill myself
>>
>>2965336
How goes it, anon? Are you metering out coax or rope?
>>
>>2965575
he's roping with coax, the ham way

wtf happened to this site? no machinist thread???

Ask machining questions, post machining failures.
CAD CAM talk
Speeds and feeds guessing
G-Code, M-Code, Bro-Code
Fanuc vs Haas
Bitch about pay
Ignore Sieg
Whine about spline shafts
Button pushers who think they're machinists
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>>2965220
>>2965222
>>2965223
>>2965224

Man that thing is fuckin stout...

Too far away for me. Already have a pretty honky tonkin radial arm drill press too that I need to fix up someday.
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>>2965335
there are no wamen on le internet, tits or gtfo (dont actually its a blueboard)
>>
>>2965386
>>2965235
>>2965233
>>2965228
>>2965220
It sold for the princely sum of $50
>>
>>2950817
I have the 1130
it kind of sucks
never buy variable speed
they are completely gutless unless you are winding it up to max RPM
and the times you run slow speed is when you need the most torque
its ass backwards
>>
>>2965734
also I made the mistake of buying the stand from them for it and it is absolute dogshit
the entire lathe shakes around making the added rigidity over the smaller 10-28 I had non-existent
i've not gotten around to fabbing a steel tube stand, the price would've been cheaper to just buy the steel tubing than the dogshit flimsy stand

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I am designing a house, based off a kithome

My girlfriend says she wants to have a lot of kids, so three smaller bedrooms would essentially be boys, girls, toddlers

The concept is that the less used rooms like bathrooms are on the street side of the house, and the house is as far front of the property as possible. This gives a larger backyard with the living room and all bedrooms having glass sliding doors that open directly onto the rear deck into the garden.

not sure about that toilet on the left. Bathrooms all have double showers because it's really a cheap thing to do, and allows efficiency in the morning

I think the Rumpus would be kind of a computer room for kids to have their games consoles and computers in a space that's still public, but not going to spread noise to the whole house
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>>2960067
kek

>>2959980
I know, I'm American, but it's still fuckin cranked m8
>>
>>2959980
Americans are fat. Americans live surprisingly far south. Boston is about the latitude of Rome. The long and short is they sweat like pigs and need to be hosed down regularly.
>>
>>2953578
>must me fun living in a stable... not
>americans are fucking retarded i swear

The only explanation for this, is its a jeet storage warehouse someplace in Canada.

OP is looking to pack 50-75 jeets in a small area. Theres no other explanation for how retarded it all is.
>>
>>2952375
>the Rumpus
WTF rumpus?

Why does your self-designed house look like a double-wide trailer?
Which way is the sun?
One of the main rooms should face the sun, unless you're in AZ or TX.
>>
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>>2952375
try this instead

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Why didn't/haven't rear handle circular saws catch on outside of North America?

This isn't to argue that they're better or worse, but clearly, a lot of carpenters in North America see advantages, but they're virtually unknown outside of it. Why?
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>>2965053
The way I do it is I have the framers put half inch plywood up before they do drywall so I can put screws in and always hit something. You can do it directly on the drywall but then you should be using adhesive and toggle bolts if you can't hit framing with screws.
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>>2965050
They're foam that has a thin layer of stucco on it. Here's a piece of dental mold that the same company is installing right now. It's bullshit.
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any real carpenter can do it all with one of these babies
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>>2961885
>all that and still home depot vinyl flooring
>>
>>2960672
as an eurofag who has one, I don't see any advantage over miter saw (short cuts) and table saw (long cuts).

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snowblower thread

im thinking of buying one this year, live in a coastal area with heavy wet snow
my driveway is about 150 feet to the garage but since ive lived here ive just shoveled about 1/6th of it and kept the cars parked up front outside
i know nothing about them other than what im reading online
im thinking a 300cc would be ideal maybe a toro, honda looks nice too but a bit $$
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>>2965283
>flinging gravel
I also have a large gravel driveway, I got the 828 over the 826 because it's all metal throughout the shooty bits, so flinging gravel isn't the worst. My issue is that someone came and ploughed my driveway before I took the house and it's just a sheet of packed ice, no way to dig into it with the machine...
>>
>>2965351
if it's spots you can melt with salt, but whole driveway good luck hopefully you will get a thaw before Winter really sets in.
>>
>>2965351
Just get a couple 50lb bags of salt. Or go out with a rock bar, a mattock or a pick axe and chip it.
>>
>>2961026
>Whatever kind you get, get one with heated handle grips. MUST HAVE that and a light on the front for low light conditions. I'd go MINIMUM 26" and more like 28" or higher. Those inches add up on each pass.
Man, I'm living with my elderly parents (combo of helping them out and rebuilding my finances and career after covid wrecked them), who just moved back to snow country after 40 years in the Southwest, and I wish I could convince them of the need for this. We've got an 80' driveway that's kinda y-shaped (splits to go into two separated garages) and live in an area where snow is sporadic but deep powder when it happens. It's been a fight to even get them to agree to a $999 Ariens Classic 24 and I know using it is going to fucking suck.
>>
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>>2960865
get a tracked honda. you won't regret
>t. proud owner of an HS80

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In /rcg/ we discuss anything & everything remote controlled - multirotors, fixed wing, cars, rovers, helis, boats, submarines, battlebots, lawnmowers, etc.

>How do I get started with racing drones?
https://oscarliang.com/mini-quad-racing-guide/
https://www.fpvknowitall.com/ultimate-fpv-shopping-list/

> How to build a racing drone (16 part video series from Joshua Bardwell)
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLwoDb7WF6c8mWARrcxtX_G6yytK7QFHID

>What about planes?
https://www.flitetest.com/

>What about aerial photography, is DIY viable?
Buy a DJI if what you actually want is to take good photos/videos, go DIY if what you actually want is a fun project.


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Looks like a cool hobby. Any drones I can 3D print?
>>
>>2965519
That question gets asked by every multirotor noob. I did it too. The short answer is that it's generally not worth it. They thrive on a highly rigid platform, and plastic usually can't offer enough stiffness or durability. A cheap carbon fiber frame can eat dozens of crashes and fly far better. Go visit CNC Madness for tons of neat frames for less money than most other sources. Out of thousands of flights and probably around a couple hundred crashes, I've busted one carbon fiber arm.
>>
>>2965622
Other anon here, what if I want to make a frame out of carbon tubes?
What's the best way to attach them in the center?
>>
>>2965622
What if I don't care about durability?
>>
>>2965624
I've not done a lot with such construction, but stuff like metal hose clamps would probably work alright. That is of course assuming you're looking to build big. The weight matters more as you get smaller. Look into various cinelifter designs if you need ideas.
>>2965685
Rigidity is still important. The only place I see it matter less is on the super small scale. (tinywhoops are often super floppy) A multirotor doesn't naturally want to fly like a plane, and so it must be forced to with a massive number of micro-adjustments. If those adjustments are sloppy because the frame bends, it can lead to either ugly flight performance, or shaking so bad that it flies away from tons of overcorrections. Remember that we're dealing a stupid, blind budget computer, and it just does math that's been cleverly written to create stability. It doesn't know that it's on a floppy frame or flying itself to the moon. 3D printing will generally not give you good results, and the $10-30 you could spend for a carbon frame will save immense headache. Design your own frame if you gotta DIY that bad. Just don't cut the carbon yourself unless you want to hate yourself later.

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>>2964382
No, I'm planning on using sodium-ion. Half the capacity, but much more heat tolerant:
https://hakadi.en.alibaba.com/productgrouplist-930672681-1/Sodium_battery.html
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>>2964431
Good on you!
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>>2963300
These things are all overpriced sans the LFP battery, which is again so cheap I wouldn't trust it just based on the price alone - but maybe it's fine, look around on forums and youtube if there are any disassembly videos.
The Victron charge controller is fine though, if you are pairing it with a standard inverter. And if you want reliability, then Victron can be fine on the inverter front, too, but you can get AiO inverters in the $100-$200 range for what you're trying to do.
Ecoworthy solar panels are overpriced (any non-direct manufacturer like EcoFlow or really anyone that makes "solar generators" will sell overpriced panels). 400Wp shouldn't cost more than $100 to buy. The arkpax is insanely overpriced, I didn't look at it very long, but those specs shouldn't warrant that price tag. An Ecoflow Delta 2 has the roughly the same specs and it goes around $500-$700.
>these solar panels produce 10 amps out of the box on a normal sunny day
It's rated at ~19V 10.5A, so the minimum charge controller you could use would be about 15A, provided it's a good brand - with Victron you can trust their ratings. With chinkshit you cannot trust their ratings, so you should get at least 4x bigger than rated.

In the end, it depends on what exactly you want out of the system, if you want more future flexibility, then it's better to buy individual parts. If you buy an AiO, you're not going to be able to cheaply increase battery size, and most of them have pretty low limits for solar input. But if you know you will not need any significant expansions, then the AiO is fine, because it's easy to set up and you don't have to mess with high current wiring.
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>>2964261
>I don't want to run the cam on the starter battery so I'm designing an uninterrupted power supply as well
I don't really understand the logic here. You want to avoid draining the starter battery? Or you want to avoid interrupting the cam recording? What exactly is the UPS doing here?
Any battery you put together will be several orders of magnitude smaller capacity than the car battery, so the whole thing is seemingly pointless. If you wanted to avoid draining the car starter battery, you could hook a solar panel to that instead. Also I hope you are aware of the voltage curve of Na-Ion, you will need a voltage stabilizer for the dashcam. LFP would be a far better choice.
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>>2964261
Amorphous solar is probably the way to go, like those cheap solar trickle chargers, but I wonder if you actually need such a thing. If you run the dashcam off the battery of the ignition relay (should be a sensible place in the fuse box to tap that off), it will only charge up when the key is turned, so you're not going to burn out your car battery without the solar panel. If anything I'd permanently mount a solar panel for the purpose of keeping your starter battery topped up in the event you're overseas for a few months.

You'd probably have a better time buying a known reliable dashcam. DIY projects, especially with finnicky high-level firmware like for capturing and storing images or video, will probably need a fair bit of trial and error. If you can't find one running lithium phosphate, sodium ion, lithium titanate, or a supercapacitor, you can look into teardowns of them to see if any use a charge control chip that you could change some setting resistors on in order to use a more stable chemistry. Worst case you can use the video recording hardware from an existing dashcam and bodge together a different power system for it. The tricky part there is faking the battery voltage measurement signal so the dashcam has a rough idea of how full it is.

>>2964565
Dashcams tend to wake up on stimulus (gee-force sensor) to record for X amount of time. The small lipo pouches in them are more than enough for a few minutes of recording. Some dashcams (Uniden, made for the Australian market) use a supercapacitor instead because they can handle more cycles and the space efficiency isn't important. But a full 18650 sized cell might mean anon intends on making it record for longer, or take periodic snapshots, or something. Or that he's using an ESP32 as his chosen microcontroller and has to deal with its shitty quiescent current.

If he uses 2S Na-ion, a low-quiescent-current linear regulator would do the job fine.


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