[a / b / c / d / e / f / g / gif / h / hr / k / m / o / p / r / s / t / u / v / vg / vm / vmg / vr / vrpg / vst / w / wg] [i / ic] [r9k / s4s / vip / qa] [cm / hm / lgbt / y] [3 / aco / adv / an / bant / biz / cgl / ck / co / diy / fa / fit / gd / hc / his / int / jp / lit / mlp / mu / n / news / out / po / pol / pw / qst / sci / soc / sp / tg / toy / trv / tv / vp / vt / wsg / wsr / x / xs] [Settings] [Search] [Mobile] [Home]
Board
Settings Mobile Home
/tg/ - Traditional Games


Thread archived.
You cannot reply anymore.


[Advertise on 4chan]


File: 1727924377479872.jpg (889 KB, 2953x2079)
889 KB
889 KB JPG
Work in Progress "meme juice" Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin:
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

Previous threads:
>>94048386
>>94027515
>>94010949
>>93988440
>>
>>94061758
Posting this again. This is the first vehicle I paint. How do the shading work on vehicle panels? Darker in the middle, lighter on edges? How do I paint a realistic copper color? I have Vallejo Metal Color copper, but it looks too clean and shinny
>>
>>94061798
You have a good reference picture how lighting works on this thing, upwards facing panels should be a bit lighter, edges highlighted and you can blackline the places where the panels meet. Copper is still a metal so it will have shine to it, you can tone it down by applying a wash and weathering over it
>>
>>94061798
Honestly I'd add some chipping effects over the red first. Maybe a reddish brown paint paint sponge'd on would work where one would edge highlight the pieces.
>>
File: Blighty.jpg (1.95 MB, 3024x4032)
1.95 MB
1.95 MB JPG
working on this little freak, maggotkin has a lot of interesting textures to apply rot to
>>
>>94061835
>purple undercoat
Please elaborate?
>>
File: Scrivvy.jpg (507 KB, 3024x3745)
507 KB
507 KB JPG
>>94061927
Generally for a lot of my miniatures I underpaint a warm colour from the top and a cold colour from below with an airbrush. This allows for the colours that I put over it to be seperated into a light/dark map instead of painted over a uniform black.Similarly, if I want a really bright/extreme contrast having a non-black base to works from allows for the shadows to look less muddy or out of place (you can see that this scrivener has purple shadows)
>>
File: 20241002_235413.jpg (519 KB, 1738x1335)
519 KB
519 KB JPG
Desperado and Scavvy
>>
File: IMG_1821.jpg (490 KB, 2332x1043)
490 KB
490 KB JPG
post gobbos
>>
File: 20241002_185021.jpg (2.09 MB, 4080x2296)
2.09 MB
2.09 MB JPG
>>
>>94062112
Lovely colour scheme
>>
>>94062112
clean your nails
>>
File: flexible-sandbags-x50.jpg (30 KB, 259x259)
30 KB
30 KB JPG
Best method for putting sandbags on a model tank? I've seen the technique for making them out of greenstuff, but I'm pretty worried about fucking that up with fingerprints etc. Are the GSW sandbags that are like little teabags full of dirt or whatever (picrel) any good?
>>
>>94062169
Just wear rubber gloves.
>>
>>94062112
Hell yeah. That model looks way better in old XII colours than in nu-Khornate colours. Interesting helmet choice.
>>
What is wrong with priming with a brush exactly?
>>
>>94062240
nothing, it's just harder to get a smooth finish
>>
>>94062184
for some reason I figured rubber gloves would stick to the greenstuff. My only real experience working with epoxy is fiberglassing and that epoxy resin shit gets everywhere
>>
>>94061758
>wake up
>check this blightsite
>my image is being used as the OP image
I don't know if I should be scared or honoured.

>>94060914
Marine juice is definitely on the redder side of being a brown wash according to my eyes.
I unfortunately don't have agrax earthshade. I do have AP strong tone.
Sonic Sledgie did make a video comparing agrax, strong tone, Vallejo Umber wash and Marine juice together.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D5yKZ1UAIEs
>>
>>94062352
Vaseline kills the stick and so does water, but that's harder to keep on.
>>
>>94062240
It takes so long that you'll kill yourself before finishing a squad.
>>
>WIP has discovered Sonic Sledgehammer's Marine Juice

Based.

I actually bought two big bottles each of old-style Reikland and Nuln Oil to make the OG version of it, before they changed the washes to be more like Contrast-lite
>>
How the fuck are you supposed to handle fliers while painting? You're not supposed to glue them to the clear stands so they just fucking wobble like an alzheimers grandpa even when reinforced with putty and holding them in your hands has the risk of chipping paint.
>>
>>94062424
Lucky you. I bought a lot of armypainter mid brown and flesh wash when I found out the washes were going to be discontinued because SonicSledge made a marine juice mix using mid brown, dark tone, and speedpaint medium.
Now OP's image makes me want to mix up his reikland+darktone+lahmian medium marine juice so I don't start using up my precious mid brown wash.

Finding any information on marine juice is difficult. My google skills seem to be failing me, but I can't find an article or a podcast where it is discussed. The only source is from Sonic Sledgehammer and that's it.
>>
>>94062352
>My only real experience working with epoxy is fiberglassing
My condolences.
>>
File: hqdefault.jpg (13 KB, 480x360)
13 KB
13 KB JPG
>>94062457
Here take this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-x1uNh0teko

It's a shakycam recording of Mark Bedford talking at the Horus Heresy weekender about how he uses these techniques to rattle off whole squads of Space Marines at a time, including Marine Juice, that's the inspo for Sonic Sledgehammer who has refined it as various paints have gone OOP
>>
>>94062457
Wait, army painter washes are discountinued? Between that and GW changing the formula, how do you get marine juice now?
I kinda want to get the pots of reikland and nuln my LGS has sitting there, they've been there for years. How long ago did GW change its washes?
>>
>>94062549
Thanks anon!
>>
>>94062554
ArmyPainter's washes are not discontinued. Some of them were. If I recall correctly it was just Flesh Wash and Mid Brown.
>How do you get marine juice now?
Current Reikland Fleshshade, Lahmian Medium, and current ArmyPainter's Dark Tone.
>How long ago did GW change its washes?
I think back in 2022.
>>
>>94062554
>Wait, army painter washes are discountinued
No, they just reformulated them.
>>
>>94062566
>Current Reikland Fleshshade, Lahmian Medium, and current ArmyPainter's Dark Tone.
Ok, got it.
>I think back in 2022.
Well that's perfect then, I could get my hands on a lifetime supply of the stuff, he has like 5 or 6 pots per wash sitting there. Just need to get the medium.
>>
>>94061779
Not that I know of, the last animated game was something like what, 10 years ago?
I recently discovered the artist has drawn some random stuff, and there's a Lora around if you want to use AI, but no animations sadly. A VN with that style would be great even with no porn.
>>
What kind of base do you guys think would be good for these guys? Gonna be a kill team, I was thinking either metal/industrial or jungle.

Also, I plastic glued them to the bases when I built them ages ago but now I'd like to get them off so I can do the bases better. What's the best way to do that?
>>
File: 1727929722729500m.jpg (145 KB, 1024x570)
145 KB
145 KB JPG
>>94062679
Fucking forgot my image
>>
>>94062679
desert
>>
>>94062679
Seconding desert with pigment powder for the boots.

Use a hobby knife with a new blade to get them off their bases. While you're at it fix the moldline.
>>
>>94062686
if you're gonna go with desert bases I highly recommend 2 AK desert themed texture pastes, they're fantastic
>>
>>94062443
Drill the model & pin with wire. Easy.
>>
File: 20241003_154426.jpg (466 KB, 1300x955)
466 KB
466 KB JPG
Thicctor now with 75% more arms
>>
Threadly reminder:
NO Historicals
NO Alternative Lifestyle Wargames
NO Fantasy
This is 40k country!
Stand up for your right to have a pure and unmolested 40k work in progress thread!
Burn the historical! Kill the alt wargames! Purge the fantasy! It is better to die for the Emperor than to live for yourself
>>
File: IMG20240626210813.jpg (469 KB, 4096x3072)
469 KB
469 KB JPG
>>94062679
Jungle bases are so fucking easy and look impressive everytime
>>
>>94062797
Historicals and fantasy are based. Cull the coomers and weebs though.
>>
File: 20241002_230748.jpg (571 KB, 2014x1244)
571 KB
571 KB JPG
>>94062797
Okay, but what if I'm using mostly 40k and other warhammer bits to play alternative wargames?
>>
>>94062797
>>94062807
The cull starts and ends with you two, you can both fuck off.
>>
>>94062815
Post a single painted Games Workshop mini or you have to leave.
>>
>>94062797
go back to 40kg and tell those faggots that painting only belongs in wip, you fucking inbred retard
>>
>order some prints
>two weeks, nothing
>ask what is going on
>"sorry, this print very difficult, will be shipping next week"
>another week passes
>what the fuck is going on
>"sorry, this print very difficult, will be shipping next week, promise!"
>been already two weeks
Fucking lazy Greek faggots I swear.
>>
File: IMG_20241003_095555489.jpg (1.49 MB, 3264x2448)
1.49 MB
1.49 MB JPG
Getting started for Orktober on some kommandos. Here's the first boy about 50% done
>>
>>94062833
there's a reason why the country went bankrupt lol, all southern europeans aren't known for being particularly hard working, applies to italians and spaniards as well
>>
File: 1671988052833732.webm (2.91 MB, 508x640)
2.91 MB
2.91 MB WEBM
>>94062797
Is this really what the average 40k fanboy is like?
>>
>>94062855
Its a falseflag. He's obviously fed up with the amount of gw minis posted here.
>>
Sign-ups are live.
>>
File: 1669775319904953.jpg (47 KB, 480x515)
47 KB
47 KB JPG
>always prime black -> drybrush white -> speedpaint
>always looks like crap
>>
>>94062867
really curious that most minis posted are from the most popular mini making company, how can that be possible?
>>
>>94062843
I am painting a ork kommandos kill team too!
The models are so damn cool looking.
>>
>>94062852
Yeah. The difference between ordering prints from Germans is absolutely fucking stark.
>order some prints
>invoice comes the next day with a three page pdf explaining everything
>the prints are on the way within a week
>everything nice and neat, with a little gift on top
>>
File: 1673460652221318.jpg (302 KB, 743x760)
302 KB
302 KB JPG
>>94062833
Prints?
>>
>>94062874
you're surprised it looks like crap? that's a shitty workflow.
>speedpaint
yeah, it's for painting fast, not good.
>>
File: your move.jpg (459 KB, 1303x1323)
459 KB
459 KB JPG
>>94062818
>>
>>94062882
Be sure to use the comically oversized Swiss army knife bit on at least one model. They're a bitch to paint but worth it.
>>
>>94062867
This isn't a tv show, he can post whatever he wants to see.
>>
>>94062960
problem is he doesn't have any models to share, he's just shitposting
>>
How do I know which color of primer I should use? Or is it mostly just black or white always?
>>
>>94063148
I prime with either Vallejo Panzer Grey or GW Zandri Dust depending on whether I'm painting something cooler or warmer overall.
>>
>>94062855
For the venn diagram of
>british
and
>angered by female custodes
yeah, that's pretty accurate
>>
>>94063189
They both look exceedingly slavic.
>>
>>94062855
>average 40K fan
>has a gf
No, I wouldn’t say average
>>
>>94063148
>How do I know which color of primer I should use? Or is it mostly just black or white always?
There's some technique in thinking ahead involved.

I like to prime with white if I'm going to use red contrast paints for Blood Angels. It gives me the bright red I prefer. Off-white undercoats like Wraithbone can work well too, but give noticeably different results.

Priming Sanguinary Guard (or Lord Commander Dante!) models with Citadel's Retributor Armour spray drastically cuts down on painting time, and looks good to boot!

This absolutely spiffy Black Templar is over a grey primer. I plan to use the same recipe for my Death Company.

Black primer works well if you want to start dark and work upwards, or use another lighter colour for Zenithal. The manager at my local GW always undercoats with black regardless of what he intends the final colours to be, and his models look pretty good.
>>
>>94063496
I'd be surprised if he still had her after that stunt. She doesn't seem amused.
>>
File: PXL_20241003_153843062.jpg (1.59 MB, 3072x4080)
1.59 MB
1.59 MB JPG
Enjoying playing with colors

I used vallejo game color purple wash for the first time on thr eater and it turned out super glossy...idk maybe i will leave maybe i will do a matte varnish at the end.

The yellow highlights look way softer and more blended

Im super zoomed in on my pic
>>
>>94063499
Holy fucking shit that mini looks so cool.
>>
File: jhdz6y7jfyw41.jpg (76 KB, 564x650)
76 KB
76 KB JPG
I need to start thinking about terrain for my project, big proper terrain outside of the little blockhouses I've made. The Rif War was predominantly fought in the highlands of the Atlas Mountains. Extremally arid during the summer months, rocky and barren, the terrain is dominated by mountains and valleys, heavy rock scrambles, patchy scrub and dry river beds. There are almost no forests, save for the occasional cedar grove, there are almost no roads except for a scant few primary routes between major towns, and there are almost no major towns.

What suggestions does anyone have for making mountain terrain? I am not constrained by the table needing to be mirror match balanced for competitive play, and I'm building terrain for 10mm as opposed to 28mm. One of the leading choices in choosing this scale was the hopes of making the table seem larger and more expensive. I've made foam board hills in the past for larger scale projects, but I'd appreciate any input I can get while still planning it.
>>
Where can I get brass wire to use for fliers. Do hardware shops have this.
>>
>>94063749
I'd think first step would be to iron out the dimensions of the overall board, playable area, "scenic" areas, etc. Once you have an idea how much of your space needs to practical and playable you should have a better idea of scale of the mountains and how to orient the board. After that maybe a to scale dress rehearsal using other bits and models so you know the layout works. Would suck to get halfway through to decide you should have switched something around weeks ago.
>>
File: P1040101.jpg (210 KB, 1080x1080)
210 KB
210 KB JPG
I'm aiming to paint an Ork every day for Orktober.

So far I've got a converted Big Boss, and this converted Kruleboy into a Big Mek. I'm hoping to finish a Flash Git tonight.
>>
>>94063840
Probably. I use aluminum armature wire.
>>
>>94063840
hardware stores should have everything you need
>>
>>94063840
They should if you don't have a hobby shop near you or don't want to use Amazon
>>
>>94063749
It really depends on what you're going for. I'm a big fan of woodland scenics rock molds but they can get expensive if you want to collect them all and don't have a nearby source of cheap dental (or better) casting plaster.

If you're going smaller scale you could also probably get away with using large pine bark chips, but make sure they're dry.

The real secret is blending in your rocks and rock faces so they don't look like they come out of nowhere. I generally build out the major structure using foam, glue the rocks down, then use a home made concoction that is basically just cheaper sculptamold to smooth and blend them into more realistic hills.

pic related is woodland scenics plaster rocks on a modular board I did.
>>
File: spiterider_wip.jpg (614 KB, 1000x1000)
614 KB
614 KB JPG
well that was a bit of a chore but I finished basecoating and did the final assembly of this guy
>>
File: Titanicus_board_complete.jpg (3.5 MB, 4032x2551)
3.5 MB
3.5 MB JPG
>>94063946
>>94063749
And this is a titanicus board with some hills (cliffs? Outcrops?) made of bark chips. Also featuring some cork outcrops made from gluing up layers of sheet cork, if you're into that sort of thing.
>>
>>94062797
Fuck off already you were never funny
>>
>>94062782
Oh mommy
>>
>>94062797
Oh, sorry. I won't post cute girl figures anymore. I promise.
>>
>>94063946
>>94063985
These are excellent examples and some pretty great points. Thanks anon. I've heard of using bark chips in the past but never considered them very much, however I may have to take a deeper look into them. I've thought about using cork tile but I'll be damned if I can't find it anywhere.

>>94063858
That's some good ideas as well anon, I'm considering a 3x3 table as the base of everything. I should take some time to sketch some possible maps and put together a list of what I'd like to have, as opposed to just hodge podge start making things without direction.
>>
>>94062782
At work. MUST. NOT. FAP
(post more once I get home later, tho)
>>
>>94063874
>I'm aiming to paint an Ork every day for Orktober.
I like this plan and might do the same. I still have many orks to paint.
>>
>>94062801
What did you use for your plants? Gonna do some jungle bases soon and could use some suggestions.
>>
>>94064072
You should be searching for cork underlayment, not cork tile. If you live in North America its available at Home depot. If you live in the UK its available on Amazon. If you live someplace else, idk.

Be warned though, it comes in rolls or sheets in quantities of tens of square feet usually.
>>
>>94064381
nta but I'm pretty sure those are gamers grass
>>
>>94064381
The laser cut plants are from Gamers Grass.
The tufts are from Gamers Grass
The rocks are from Gamers Grass
The logs and sticks are just some sticks I picked up outside
>>
>>94064409
>>94064411
Thanks!
>>
File: 1707205169316798.jpg (1.38 MB, 3056x3056)
1.38 MB
1.38 MB JPG
This is the best I can do. I just can't do any better no matter how much time I take.
>>
>>94064426
What do you dislike about it?
>>
>>94064424
They make better laser cut out plants for jungles, I just used the ones I could get my hands on at the time regardless of if they were jungle plants. I think the red aloe looks fairly alien in a jungle environment tho, so that's interesting to me
>>
>>94064426
you didn't even take enough time to clean up the sprue connection on the backpack anon. you have basecoated the model, your work has barely begun. Get some shadows and light in there, plenty of methods, pick some
>>
File: wtfbro.png (4.31 MB, 2485x1729)
4.31 MB
4.31 MB PNG
>>94064426
At least clean up the sprue connections and mold lines before painting.

The basecoat looks *fine*, it's a solid foundation, but you've gotta start throwing washes and highlights on there my man. It's only half cooked
>>
File: tiny_plants.jpg (744 KB, 1928x4899)
744 KB
744 KB JPG
>>94064381
How autistic do you want to get anon? You can buy laser cut plants from gamers grass and pay $10 for about 10 plants and get real pissed at the count they put on the packaging (its individual number of leaves, not plants)

Alternatively, you can buy a bag of 100 fairy garden plants off amazon for less than $10, cut them up, prime them, and paint them however you want.

Also woodland scenics deadfall is a great source for tiny sticks if you're worried about bugs in sticks you find outside or something.
>>
>>94064481
The paint doesn't look smooth and it looks super flat.

>>94064487
>Get some shadows and light in there, plenty of methods, pick some
I don't know where to even begin with that.

>>94064529
I've always been told to avoid washes because they act like a crutch, but I've not been told what to do after that. As for clean up, I'm not too bothered right now, I just want my paint to look better.
>>
>>94064569
WHOEVER TOLD YOU TO AVOID WASHES LIED TO YOU. Washes are liquid skill in a bottle and will improve your work A LOT
>>
>>94064569
>washes act like a crutch
So someone gave you this advice as a new painter, but didnt explain any alternative techniques? You need better friend, dude
>>
>>94064569
> I don't know where to even begin with that.
A wash to start.

> I've always been told to avoid washes because they act like a crutch
First, buy whom? They're a tool in your paint box, and like all tools you need to know how to use them Secondly, even if they are training wheels for babies first miniature, so what. Kids use training wheels to learn how to ride a bike, and nigga, you can't ride yet.
>>
>>94064569
If washes are a crutch you need to fucking use them until your legs grow back anon.
>>
>>94064426
IFLP
>>
>>94064680
It's not a bad color combo. Anon could have put the model together better, but they apparently don't care. It's biggest sin after that is that it's flat as fuck and for whatever reason they didn't want to use washes to correct that.
>>
File: file.png (8 KB, 687x67)
8 KB
8 KB PNG
do any of you ask chatgpt for quick suggestions?
>>
>>94064569
>I've always been told to avoid washes because they act like a crutch
What retard told you that? Anything is allowed so long as it makes the mini look better. Mix a magenta wash if you want to make the armor more vibrant or a dark one if you're just after definition.
>>
>>94064724
>Khorne Yellow
kek'd
>>
>>94064724
Fuck no, there is no thinking going on there are you a spaz
>>
>>94064724
I use open ai to test color schemes on models
>>
>>94064569
>washes act like a crutch
After fucking up mainline Warhammer, comptards are now trying to ruin painting
>>
>>94064724
I used it a couple times to come up with color schemes, it did a pretty good job
>>
>>94064737
Dornian Heresy confirmed
>>
>>94064739
i needed a way to dissect the different stages of gangrene without having to pour over a bunch of medical photos
>>
>>94062833
Idk what you were expecting when ordering from non-whites anon, c'mon now
>>
File: gobbo.jpg (1.02 MB, 4032x2268)
1.02 MB
1.02 MB JPG
What do you think, I feel like these goblin blood bowl minis are too busy with their designs. I'm going to change the armor straps to red to cut out a color.
>>
File: IMG_20241003_092454.jpg (3.11 MB, 2448x3264)
3.11 MB
3.11 MB JPG
Do I treat this the same as painting pinup minis with doing deep shades for boobs? Idk what's worse, that someone sculpted it this way or that slightly excited to paint it
>>
>resin ammo feeds
I have found the devil and he's on my hobby table.
>>
>>94064997
what's wrong?
Post pics. Are they warped?
>>
>>94064426
>Base coats decently, even though he's got a couple neglected things like the eyes or the skull on the knee
>Shades nothing
>Highlights nothing
>Weathers nothing
>Doesn't look up a tutorial like Venturella's multiple "how to paint purple" guides.
>Posts online saying it can't be improved no matter how much time is spent.

Anon, you've barely started.


It seems you're under the impression that painting is just laying flat colors. You've got to exaggerate the features, darken the shadows, brighten the highlights, so that it looks less like a small thing and more like a big thing..

I don't know what colors you have available to you, but you've got washes in the background so I figure you at the very least know what a wash is.

I'd take a thinned our dark blue, or that neutral colored AP "Dark Tone" and a pointed brush and line into the recesses of the purple armor. I'd also use that strong tone for the red, parchment, gold, steel metals, and maybe the white (if not using a blue wash for the white robes, or a flesh wash for the gold, and the same strong tone for the steel, and so on). Then I'd go over those areas again with the midtone to neaten things up. By then that's at least a very marked improvement and makes it look less flat.

Then we could discuss highlighting if you wish.
>>
File: 20241003_115755~(1).jpg (1.49 MB, 1309x1728)
1.49 MB
1.49 MB JPG
>>94065028
They're just a pain in the ass. I cleaned them thoroughly and it still took 20 minutes to get one side to stay glued on. By that point the entire ammo belt had cooled down enough it wasn't flexible and couldn't be bent into place again like I originally had it (bending it kept breaking the connection with the gun). Plus the end going into the backpack doesn't line up flat with the backpack's port, so I'm going to have to either feed it in at an angle or really finagle it some.
I had an easier time with plasma cannons, since their ammo feed flares out at either end of the cable and attaches on two surfaces, plus it's like 10x the contact area. This is a tiny end-to-end join on both ends, which is making it less than pleasant.
My current plan is to sort out the guns and the backpacks for the rest of the models (I have to reposition a hand for them to work with these arms and bodies, so that's work in and of itself), then come back to the ammo feeds when I feel like I'm up for dealing with the headache. On the plus side, if these feeds were plastic they wouldn't fit at all, so at least I'm salvaging it.
Specific kit is the old 30k rotor cannon.
>>
>>94063874
I did this last year, a stompa included. I was fucking stressed at the end.
>>
>>94063581
Cute. Paint butt.
>>
>>94062364
Good stuff anon, I hope this becomes common knowledge because it makes battle ready paint jobs a lot more presentable.
It aggravates me that GW's washes are essentially formulated wrong if you use it they way you're expected to.
>>
File: IMG_20240604_1943375992.jpg (120 KB, 1156x1323)
120 KB
120 KB JPG
>>94062073
Gobbos
>>
File: redcaps.jpg (223 KB, 2788x1703)
223 KB
223 KB JPG
Printed redcaps
>>
>>94063874
>an Ork every day
How are you so fast
I needed 4 hours for this
>>
>>94062873
Stupid question, but if I got the email a little ago, does that mean I'm already registered?
>>
File: CovenantOfFireMarine.jpg (159 KB, 721x962)
159 KB
159 KB JPG
Think these would look best with Tau Ochre, Raw Sienna, or a real orange?
>>
>>94065500
Sorry, couldn't log into my email to verify that. Forget I asked.
>>
Dear WIP, please help a newbie out.
After lurking for quite some time I decided to try painting myself. Hearing about that my good mate gifted me a box of Karskin. Aaand... While I really like the minis, each is packed so full of detail that I find a prospect of painting them as a first project very daunting.
Could you please recommend something that would be a bit easier to handle as a beginner? I'd like to practice a bit before giving the big boys a try.
Thanks a lot!
>>
>>94065739
Unfortunately the good answer is spare marines.
>>
File: 200w.gif (582 KB, 200x150)
582 KB
582 KB GIF
>>94065721
>Forget I asked.
>>
>>94065739
paint them one model at a time so you can see your skills improving
>>
>>94065739
Random plastic toy soldiers.
>>
>>94065781
NTA but it always frustrates me having a unit with irregular paint jobs, much better to paint individual minis when experimenting.
>>
Current progress on my first mini. Going to tighten up some of the paint job and go over it with a wash.
>>
File: IMG_7095.jpg (339 KB, 1479x1310)
339 KB
339 KB JPG
>>94065894
>>
>>94065905
My, what big teeth you have!
>>
>>94065905
Thinning your paints from the start, good show. Will look good once the wash goes on.
>>
File: leion.png (263 KB, 400x406)
263 KB
263 KB PNG
>>94065905
Looks good for a first attempt, some washes would definitely improve it.
>>
>>94065905
While you're learning, don't be afraid to try new things. Worst thing you end up doing is dunking the mini in simple green and stripping it back to try again.

From here I'd recommend practicing drybrushing on the brown mane it has. There's plenty of youtube videos to give you exact detail but basically you want a lighter brown on your brush, then you deliberately wick it off onto a paper towel so there's only the slightest trace of the paint still on the bristles. Then you quickly run your brush over the area you're drybrushing.

That will give the mane some contrast on the higher spots and drastically improve the look. After that I'd recommend trying your hand at washes to bring back details flattened out by the monotone of the paints.
>>
>>94065739
Go to a GW store and ask for the miniature of the month.
>>
File: trudvang warg.jpg (83 KB, 600x547)
83 KB
83 KB JPG
>>94065931
Thanks. Would a flesh wash or a black wash be better you think?

>>94065999
>>94065905
Kek. Its a Trudvang Warg. Hence the big ol'teeth.
>>
>>94066127
Brown wash all over, including teeth and gums, it'll tie it all together
>>
>>94065865
You can always repaint them. If you kept your paint thin, you can simply paint over it. Otherwise you can always strip the: soak them in simple green if you're an american, dettol if you're a euro.
>>
File: P1030648.jpg (202 KB, 1080x1080)
202 KB
202 KB JPG
>>94065739
Nolzur's Marvelous Miniatures line is that sweet spot between "easy to practice on" "ubiquitous enough to fine," "varied in lineup," "cheap" and "detailed enough to be vaguely interesting" while not being complete crap. Maybe pick up one of those, where it's only like six bucks.

The primer is kind of patchy though. Sometimes paint doesn't quite spready out evenly in some areas. The models are pre-primed but with mold lines.
>>
What's a good pace for winter themed wood elves? Currently getting a glade guard done every two days
>>
>>94066246
Thanks, I'll post an update once they arrive in the mail and they get all painted.
>>
>>94065739
>>94066312
Reaper Minis are another good option if they're sold locally in your area. Good variety, enough detail that they're interesting but not enough to be overwhelming, decently cheap as long as you're buying the basic line; their metal and special plastic lines are closer to unreasonable GW prices, so avoid those.
>>
File: images.jpg (6 KB, 183x275)
6 KB
6 KB JPG
>>94062797
REALITY CHECK
Nighthaunt is literally the coolest army in all of Warhammer and nothing else comes even close
from casual to seasoned player this is a general consensus because their models always use newer higher quality and their color scheme is simple but elegant
>>
What is the single cutest miniature I can get?
>>
File: 1.jpg (216 KB, 1000x1000)
216 KB
216 KB JPG
>>94066625
I like that mini so much I bought it just to paint it even tho I don't have and don't plan on starting a Nighthaunt army. I'm not sure I agree they're the coolest army though
>>
File: tfwWE.png (561 KB, 666x666)
561 KB
561 KB PNG
Almost completed my entire backlog. Just 2 harlequin jetbikes and a harlequin transport to go. And it's not even December yet!
WAGMI backlog bros.
>>
>>94066625
They're all monopose and having a good color scheme on the box means I can't use it.
>>
>>94066695
you legit just explained the reason its the coolest army
no other army will get you to buy a single model for an army you dont have enough points to even play
because Nighthaunt is just the fuckin coolest
>>
File: Lord_Executioner_M01.jpg (159 KB, 800x800)
159 KB
159 KB JPG
Actually this is the coolest Nighthaunt
>>
>>94066747
I've done that multiple times.
Nighthaunt is the only army where if you buy the coolest mini on its own, you don't buy any more because they all look similar.
>>
File: 20240328_151015.jpg (3.49 MB, 4032x3024)
3.49 MB
3.49 MB JPG
>>94066747
Agreed. I bought the banshees and glaive wraiths and I'm only using them for D&D. The skellies are really fucking good too.
>>
>>94066779
>they all look similar
if youre fucking blind I guess
>>
>>94066283
If you're keeping "just strip the mini" in your back pocket, there's less incentive to take the paint job seriously. I've stripped a ton of minis, I just don't like going in expecting it.
This is a bit of gymnastics instead of just painting a test mini that you wouldn't mind if it was irregular.
>>
>>94066798
>instead of a wispy ghost with a scythe floating, it's a wispy ghost riding a pegasus
Wow, I've been obliterated.
>>
>>94066819
>an thinks an entire horse is an accessory akin to the little jetpacks that all look the same on space marines
>an entire horse is just like the little emblems on their shoulders
okay you actually just are blind my bad
>>
>>94066843
NTA, but he obviously means they're basically all ragged cloth with a floating skull inside.
>>
>>94066872
thats an even fucking dumber argument
>all humanoids look exactly the same because they all have skin and hair and clothes
man the space marines without helmets
guy hates playing against orks cause theyre all green dudes with guns
>>
File: Dreadblade_Harrow_M01.jpg (102 KB, 920x950)
102 KB
102 KB JPG
>>94066798
This one is way too busy

These guys look sick, on the other hand
>>
>>94066922
Orks are one of the most flavorful armies out there, you're just being obtuse.
>>
I'm amazed how easily and often people in these threads get into arguments over petty reasons.
>>
File: mqdefault.jpg (14 KB, 320x180)
14 KB
14 KB JPG
>>94066968
I'm being WHAT?
>>
>>94066940
Monopose. Yes they looks nice, but they'll look the exact same in 99% of armies.
>>
File: IMG_1825.jpg (642 KB, 2458x1278)
642 KB
642 KB JPG
>>94065282
Based. Have some squigs.

>>94065291
I'll allow it.
>>
>>94066968
>flavorful
but they all look soooo similar anon
cant you see theyre just green dudes with guns thats like sooo alike I cant tell the difference
>>
>>94066993
Damn, now that I uploaded the pic I see the squig has horns.
>>
File: obrin process.jpg (930 KB, 4032x3024)
930 KB
930 KB JPG
These are my OBR in progress. Still need to do some highlights and paint the bases for sure
>>
File: IMG_6473.jpg (180 KB, 1000x1231)
180 KB
180 KB JPG
How compatible with Primaris sculpts will this probably be? Plug and play or some surgery required?
>>
File: IMG_1826.jpg (653 KB, 2684x1172)
653 KB
653 KB JPG
>>94066993
>>94067018
Now I can go to bed.
>>
File: file.png (2.11 MB, 989x883)
2.11 MB
2.11 MB PNG
>>94061758
anybody have recommendations on how to model the cog shoulder trim of a techmarine? I want to do up a terminator techmarine conversion and that's the only bit I'm stuck on currently
>>
>>94066313
Hello?
>>
>>94067253
Real, I'd cast that bitch with blue-stuff/oyumaru. It's gonna be hard to get that right otherwise.
>>
>>94067147
Don‘t see how that would require surgery. All marine torsos are basically the same size. What are you planning?
>>
>>94067270
Good morning sir.
>>
>>94067291
Primaris are slightly bigger than HH marines. GW will never make two ranges compatible if they have a choice, look at ToW bases.
>>
>missed a piece
>need to disassemble half the model to get it back in
such a shame he lost it in battle, truly a shame
>>
File: 1653092495255.jpg (21 KB, 480x499)
21 KB
21 KB JPG
>>94065999
>been seeing this picture for years
>always thought it's fucking hysterical
>be me today, started painting minis about 6 months ago
>see this shit again
>notice that this is literally a horse shaped form with the head chopped off to fit the lion skin
mini painting is straight up changing the way I perceive the world and I fucking love it
>>
>>94067270
Are you on a deadline? If not, don't worry about the pace.
>>
>>94067288
there's nothing to cast though, they don't make terminator techmarines or pauldrons that fit them in the first place
>>
File: Wolpertinger.jpg (529 KB, 700x790)
529 KB
529 KB JPG
>>94067333
Historical kitbashing
>>
>>94067291
I just wasnt sure if the size difference between hh marines and primaris would make the arms look strange or not. My homebrew chapter’s all about looting HH tech out in the halo stars, so I want them to have a mishmash of weapons like this
>>
>>94067388
You just have to pick your sculpting putty of choice
>>
File: IMG_20241004_002043.jpg (2.64 MB, 4608x3456)
2.64 MB
2.64 MB JPG
Think I should have done bloodsplatter instead on my necromancer here, but I don't think I ruined it at least
>>
>>94067147
Not super compatible I’m afraid, the hh minis have shorter arms, and tiny hands. They might look very out of place. With that said, if you get creative with the pauldrons you can cover up some arm adjustments easy enough, and hand swaps with plastic glue really isn’t the hardest thing to do. For instance I hand swapped this umbra boltgun.
>>
File: Kommandos - We Begin.png (582 KB, 1546x462)
582 KB
582 KB PNG
In honor of Orktober I started my Kommandos along with some other Anons here. Letting the plastic cement set then I'll come back and double check gaps and smooth out mold lines. Wanted to get at least 5 assembled but my back has decided that we are done for the day.
>>
>>94065353
It blows my fucking mind whenever I see someone painting something fast. This was the fastest I've ever done a mini and it's super fucking basic and it took me all day.
Side note, is that a fucking OG Heroquest?
>>
>>94065291
Is that a big ol dick on the left one?
>>
>>94067322
Manlet marines and primaris fit together no problem. I don‘t imagine it to be different for HH marines.
>>
>>94067147
>>94067497
>the hh minis have shorter arms, and tiny hands
The old ones perhaps, but the new ones are only a hair's breadth shorter and thinner, same as the new CSMs. The only ones liable to cause problems are the two-handed weapons, which may require some fiddling to fit around a Primaris chest neatly
>>
>>94064079
>he doesn't fap at work
Not only do I fap at work, I had a coworker that I'm pretty sure also did it and was trying to cruise me.
>>
>>94063874
>>94064339
>>94065126
This is such a good idea. I've got a pile of Reapers that need painted, but I'm not that fast.
>>
>>94063874
He looks like a painboy to me
>>
>>94067388
Anon, Cast the border, then use greenstuff to get a positive of the border, then do it again, then cut them together to get a border of the size you need. Clear up with more greenstuff.

Cheers.
>>
>>94067535
Forgot to mention I'm pinning these guys and doing the bases separately, any suggestions? Anon a couple threads back had rad road bases that I've never tried before that are a contender.
>>
>>94067579
>I'm pretty sure also did it and was trying to cruise me.
I mean, maybe at a gloryhole or something that'd be alright. Coworkers gotta be able to look each other in the eye after that shit
>>
phobos armor is stupid looking and I'm tired of pretending it's not.
>>
>>94068211
It's fine, stop fighting the last war
>>
File: P1040103.jpg (234 KB, 1080x1080)
234 KB
234 KB JPG
>>94063874
The Orktober streak continues.

Right now I've got a Flash Git/Nob kitbash.

>>94064339
I'd look forward to it.

>>94065126
Yeah a Stompa would do it. I managed to do an Ork a day in 2022 but 2023 and 2021 were a wash.

2018 didn't even have Orks at all, and it really didn't become a thing until 2020.

The biggest model I could manage on such a day-by-day basis was one Shokkjump Dragsta. A whole Stompa would stress me beyond belief.

>>94065353
I'm sure you loathe to hear it, but practice over time makes you faster at painting..

>>94067695
I can see it. I did use some Drukhari parts so it wouldn't be that far off to make a Painboy conversion with a Kruleboy base model.
>>
File: 1602132762714.jpg (15 KB, 486x567)
15 KB
15 KB JPG
I've painted minis for years now and have practically never gotten better at it
>>
>told myself I wouldn't buy any more new models until after the holidays
>now it's orktober
>friends asking if I'm gonna paint anything for it
>wasn't going to, but they got me thinking
>now I'm shopping listings for ork models on ebay
FUCK. I can just get one squighog boy, right? It'll be fine... haha
>>
>that's a nice resin sculpt you've got there
>be a shame if there was an air bubble where the arm used to be
I don't even need to name the brand, everybody knows.
>>
>>94064569
if you want a smooth basecoat you have to think the paint and do multiple coats. thinning is a skill you must learn and yes you will fuck it up

if you want models to look good you have to create light, shadow, and definition. there are many ways to do this, but the basic games workshop method of basecoat, wash, layer, highlight is a good place to start. people are right to say that washes can be a crutch if you never go past them and don’t also learn how to manually place shadows and light, but you should at least try them to see what they are good for. as others have said, watch vince venturella videos and learn anon, there are a shitload of excellent resources out there if you actually want to learn and improve.
>>
>look at my pile of shame
>steel myself to actually finish some of it before I buy anything more.
>finish one (1) box.
>damn, I actually made a dent in my shame pile.
>buy 3 more boxes to reward myself.
How do I stop?
>>
>>94068894
setting limits, and realizing the extent of what you have already bought. I bought 50 ard boyz/black orcs because i thought i only had a few, but realized i did not have 10, but 50 models already that i'd bought and converted a long while back from various bloodbowl kits and stored away. now i have 100, only 25 of which are painted. I do not desire any more orc infantry.

Additionally, I have wanted a rogue idol for a while and found one for a decent price. I bought it and painted it immediately. I now have no other pieces i want for the force and I'm satisfied. get enough to be satisfied and not guilty. if you're guilty or not thinking you're going to paint something, sell it off.
>>
File: rogue idol.jpg (630 KB, 3156x2268)
630 KB
630 KB JPG
the rogue idol in question
>>
>>94068894
Dont buy more than one box/unit for an army at a time. Dont buy for more than two armies at a time. You hear horror stories of people that bought 2000 points of an army and got sick of them before finishing a couple infantry units. Dont be like them. Besides, plastic sitting in the closet is money spent, instead of money available if something else strikes your fancy.
>>
>>94068751
Do you want to get better at it?
>>
Hey anons. What is the Vallejo liquid mask solvent if I want to keep my brush liquid while applying it? I have a problem where the brush dries and gets sticky and starts to pull the mask off all of the sudden.
>>
File: fist2.jpg (1.81 MB, 3024x4032)
1.81 MB
1.81 MB JPG
Almost done
>>
>inherited house
>can now spray primer my minis in big batches, instead of brush on or taking a few models into public parks and hoping to avoid notice
>no clue where to start
I was thinking of using a spare metal shelf rack I have, setting that up on a tarp, putting the models on the rack, and priming them on each side. Would that work? A decade of apartment living and brush-on primers has made me inexperienced with rattlecans.
>>
>>94069408
I use a plank of wood and some double sided sticky tape, and just spray them in the backyard. Don't spray inside the house.
>>
File: 1711244755206011.gif (833 KB, 280x189)
833 KB
833 KB GIF
>Nid Warrior #3 in two parts (body and gun)
>Body completed yesterday, fun and easy
>Begin work on gun today
>After the flesh is finished in 15 minutes, check book for visual
>Notice tiny spot of color on the Hive Tyrant that I hadn't noticed before
>It's actually the small tail ridges painted like the carapace
>Always felt like they could've used a little something on my guy, since I love my Hive Tyrant so much
>Happily take him out of his case in order to do a nice and easy touch-up
>Ten hours later I've ended up repainting his entire carapace, adding more tone to his flesh, doing the spikes on the Heavy Venom Cannon and the cracks on his hooves
>Put him back in the case while the varnish dries (in case I need to fix him up at all tomorrow)
>Return to Warrior gun
>The rest of the gun takes five minutes
I swear every time I move the Hive Tyrant over to the painting table suddenly the entire day has gone by when I put the brush down, I can't help but just find him such a joy to work on.
I'll wait until I see the condition of the varnish before trying to get a good picture of him; I might have to touch up the carapace in a few parts depending on how it dried (or just remove/paint over the varnish itself if I really need to) but I like to imagine that every time he gets a victory I upgrade his paint job that week as though he were evolving.
Warrior turned out great, too.
>>
>>94069439
My only issue with the sticky tape is that I prime my snow bases white and my marines Black, so I'd be attaching marines to double sided tape off-base. Then again, tape is a lot more workable for that than balancing on racks. Good idea.
>>
What's a good warhammer (probably fantasy) squad I can buy that will have lots of skin I can practice? Thinking something like barbarian warriors or whatever those berserker dwarfs were called.
>>
>>94069632
Darkoath or hedonites
>>
>>94069209
That sounds like it started drying in the bottle if it is reaching that point quickly. But just try keeping the brush wet with water to slow the drying time.
>>
>>94062073
>>
>>94067018
Absolutely crazy how weird cognition works, despite our complete confidence in it. Nice looking gobs, anon

>>94067088
Nice looking colours on these boners anon

>>94067540
If you practice, you will get much faster. You gotta out in those reps dude

>>94068256
Really digging the freehand anon, good stuff

>>94068894
Fucked if I know anon, I’m drowning in this shit

>>94069274
Cool checkerboard and nice smooth highlights. Really dig the Zorn palette look, really makes it look like earlier 40k.
>>
>>94069274
McDonalds warrior haha
>>
>>94069768
Oathmark Orc? I need to pick up some of their models desu
>>
>>94068780
Just one? Come on anon... surely there's no harm in getting a bit more. It's orktober after all... look at all those ridicilously cool designs...
>>
>>94069202
Yes I try to get better at it and still suck.
>>
>>94069884
I’m a bit a McDonalds warrior myself desu

>>94069943
Post some models and tell use what you want to improve on
>>
>>94069943
this
>Post some models and tell use what you want to improve on

Want to know if it's fundamentals, something specific you're struggling with. Maybe just not trying anything outside your box?
>>
>>94069887
Yeah neat little guy
>>
>>94069982
>>94069968
Heres what I’ve done this week so far. don’t think I’m the worst painter but there’s certain fundamentals I never get right.

1. Skins, especially skin on the face, never looks as good as I want it
2. Can’t highlight for shit, particularly clothes, they come out thick and chunky looking instead of thin and natural, and the color transitions never look smooth. The shirt on the guy in the white shirt and sunglasses shows this the best.

The pants on some of these models looks decent but that’s because I used this trick I saw on YouTube where you paint a thinned layer of glaze 5-6 times over zenithal highlighting, so I didn’t actually highlight any of those
>>
>>94070044
Also I can thin my paints even to the point where they become watery and hard to work with and my paint jobs still look thick or chalky

Here’s another pic of the white shirt guy to kinda demonstrate my difficulty with getting good looking highlights on clothes
>>
File: frnt1.png (1.62 MB, 1080x1080)
1.62 MB
1.62 MB PNG
Finished painting up my Rat Ogre conversion, base still needs to be built but planning to do a bunch of them together later.
>>
File: fbck2.png (1.65 MB, 1080x1080)
1.65 MB
1.65 MB PNG
>>94070068
>>
>>94070044
Love the McFly vest
>>
>>94070062
Overall they're pretty good.
In my experience that texture especially given that you mentioned super thin paints comes from layering/glazing without the previous layer fully drying. it's not always apparent initially but after a few layers it builds up. I feel like you probably know that though.
>>
>>94070044
>>94070062

The same way you use thinned glazes over your zenithal on the pants is how you want to approach smoothing out other transitions and gradients. When you drybrush the pants before the glazing I bet it looks chalky and thick right? Same principal.

Using your shirt for example, the shadows and highlights are sketched out but the transitions are rough.

You'll want to glaze those transitions out. You could go the same route as your pants where you use the glaze more as a tinting wash all over but then you will lose the white (glaze with darker shadow colors not your highlight colors) the workaround is to get your paint into a glaze consistency but instead of applying like a wash, apply it like a layer.

The most important part of the process is voiding the glaze paint off your brush before you touch the model. You say you thin your paints to the point they become watery and hard to work with, this is because you have too much of the paint still in your brush so it floods the area. Glazing is closer to drybrushing in the amount of paint you want on your brush. When you pass your bristles over the model you shouldn't be seeing color or pigment. All that should be happening is the surface gets wet. You won't see immediate results, but slide enough watery paint tint over an area enough times and it will fuzz out the transitions and make smooth gradients.
>>
>>94070044
Skin is hard. Humans know what skin should look like, and even a slight mistake looks weird to us. Your dudes look pretty good to be honest. One thing you could try is not using a wash paint, but starting from a midtone and glazing the shadows exactly how you want them. Have you tried making a real study of it? Get some references, get some skin paints, get some big muscleboys and just paint skin for a week. Get someone better than you to give you feedback. Sometimes you just need to grind some levels in a skill.

What style of highlights are you trying for? I’m guessing Citadel style edge highlights? What brushes and paints are you using?

>>94070062
I’d recommend some different paints than Citadels whites. Some colours in their range are alright, some are pretty good but their whites are all chalky trash in my experience.

Skill plateaus are real, and GW’s tutorial system falls off after “basecoat-shade-edge highlight”.
>>
>>94070068
>>94070069
I like it a lot, especially the corroded metal and the liquid in those glass bulbs, good job
>>
>>94070068
>>94070069
>>94070164
Agreed, the bulbs and the metals are exceptional. Very well done anon
>>
>>94067574
Actually the older Forgeworld minis have larger hands than the new plastics, which feature smaller heads and hands as their design style shifts farther from heroic proportions. 2012 Tactical marines, 2019 csm, and primaris all have the same size heads and hands. (Albeit primaris have thicker plating on the backs of their hands, and have straight knuckles cause the sculpted doesn’t know how hands work).
You are right that the new csm and mkVI are rightly the same height though, bothe taking after the space marines heroes size. I do feel that that picture is misleading, they new mkVI are a head shorter than primaris.
About the going around the chest for two handed grips is correct though. With some of the older sculpts you can find weirdly long cheery arms.
>>
>>94070068
Great stuff anon
>>
>>94069274
Mustard man lookin ass
Dijon danny lookin mf
>>
File: 20241004_150004.jpg (1.49 MB, 2707x2268)
1.49 MB
1.49 MB JPG
Finishing up Skarbrand
>>
>>94069116
Cool
>>
I want to book a week off work just to paint and look at miniatures on social media

Most nights I'm at the gym and most weekends I just don't get the time to myself.
>>
So, how do I go about priming MDF? Will regular ol chaos black or bone white do the job or will it gunk up the detail? I recently got some building scatter terrain and I'm not quite sure how to go about painting it.
>>
>>94070309
same way as regular plastic or metal, light sprays at an appropriate distance
>>
>>94070322
Right on. So I can paint it just like I do with any other models? I'm still a novice and I usually prime in black and use a lot of dry brushing to hide my mistakes.
>>
>>94070350
as long as you prime it first
>>
>>94070355
Cool, I will just paint then. I get my best results when I just relax and don't over think it.
>>
File: 20241004_111814.jpg (954 KB, 2398x1761)
954 KB
954 KB JPG
I like how this one turned out.
>>
File: 20241004_111706.jpg (1.17 MB, 2381x1810)
1.17 MB
1.17 MB JPG
>>94070368
>>
File: GOxtewCX0AAa6Qq.jpg (440 KB, 2215x1246)
440 KB
440 KB JPG
>>94062073
>>
File: 1724968124498059.jpg (82 KB, 1080x619)
82 KB
82 KB JPG
Anyone else kind of get obsessed with unified basing schemes or unified painting schemes, and it kind of stalls you from getting on?

Like I have loads of different sci-fi stuff and I want them all to have the same bases. 40k, Necromunda, then loads of different companies stuff for Stargrave.

I think I want to go with Martian red desert (This is Martian Ironearth then highlighted with Fire Dragon Bright then a final highlight of Eldar Flesh)

But then that means all my terrain will have to have similar bases.
>>
>>94070309
>>94070350
MDF soaks a shitload of paint so if you really don't want the hassle, it might help to seal it with strongly watered down PVA glue first.
>>
>>94070546
>>Like I have loads of different sci-fi stuff and I want them all to have the same bases.
How horrifying.
>>
>>94070549
it's not an issue if you actually know how to apply primer
>>
File: 20240925_125513.jpg (3.81 MB, 4000x3000)
3.81 MB
3.81 MB JPG
>>94062073
>>
>>94070546
Hell yeah brother. Let the autism overtake you; it is a good pain
>>
>>94070667
>>94070800

It is autism but it means I kind of faff about, it's decision paralysis. Other people don't try to eat the whole elephant at once, they have different 40k armies with different basing schemes, or they don't view their collection as one huge project.

Meanwhile I'm holding off on painting 6 Heroquest Goblins based on what I might do with a Warhammer Underworlds Looncourt box in 5 years time, as I want all my greenskins to be unified. it's an affliction.
>>
File: 1378424065804.png (639 KB, 1192x953)
639 KB
639 KB PNG
>>94070889
>>94070546
you people come with the weirdest excuses to not paint
>>
Is kneadatite a good enough greenstuff? It's cheap af compared to just about everything else compared to how much you're getting
>>
>>94070924
kneadatite is greenstuff
>>
>>94070924
If it was, everyone would be using it.
>>
>>94070947
>>94070949
Make up your fucking mind.
>>
>>94070889
I understand anon, I’m always finding new and exciting ways of self-sabotaging. Yesterday I started painting a recast Zhufor I bought as a one-off. I figured I’d just paint him and not worry about it since he doesn’t have to go in an army or anything. Then I was having fun, so I quickly devolved into some bullshit “I should get some WE terminators to go with him” “If I’m going to do a few of these models, should I spend some more time trying different colours?” “This cast isn’t great, if I want to put him on the table, should I look for a genuine copy?”

Sometimes, it is in fact a bad pain
>>
>>94070953
kneadatite is the original greenstuff, everything else are overpriced knock offs
>>
>>94070953
Yes, no, maybe, I don’t know. Could you repeat the question?
>>
>>94070949
Not so fast. Most of the people are still shelling money for tamiya extra thin cement, while a big bottle of tamiya airbrush cleaner is EXACTLY the same thing, but like two times cheaper.
There is plenty of stuff like that in the hobby.
>>
>>94070949
lol..

lmao, even
>>
>>94062782
mind dropping a link to the stl?
>>
File: IMG_3155.jpg (2.72 MB, 4031x2842)
2.72 MB
2.72 MB JPG
Progress
>>
File: 20241004_085800.jpg (3.12 MB, 4032x3024)
3.12 MB
3.12 MB JPG
WIP
Never really painted these seriously before I had Eldar guardians when I was 12 but that faction was forced on me by the rules of "Well Chaz is already playing Tyranids."
Always loved the Behemoth colors, using army painter acrylics because I couldn't find citadel in my area. Primer is chaos black though.
>>
>>94071249
fuck my autistic phone camera, it previews the image right-ways up but then flips it whenever I post it.
>>
>>94071268
save it in paint
>>
File: Neurolictor WIP.jpg (2.61 MB, 3024x4032)
2.61 MB
2.61 MB JPG
>>94071311
I have another angle to show the back plates but phoneposting is a huge pain in the ass.
>>
>>94070889
magnets
magnetize the feet of all those fuckers so you can change the abses anytime, so in 5 years time when you get the next shit you can redo all the bases if needed
>>
>>94071337
Easiest way is to just crop a bit of the pic to remove rotation metadata.
>>
>>94068077
In addition to spending a lot of time in there and not hearing any bathroom noises, he also tapped his feet in my direction, breathed heavy, shook his legs, and dropped his phone one time.
>>
i wish my gorilla hands wouldn't break any thin parts on minis
>>
>>94068751
I'm so impatient with this. I've only painted like... 20 minis, but I think they all look like shit and I come on here and I can't imagine painting most of the stuff I see. They might as well ask me to do real magic.
>>
>>94069877
>If you practice, you will get much faster.
Practice is The Thing, right? But it sucks practicing when I'm not happy with the results.
>>
>>94071633
No pain no gain anon.
>>
Hey anons can someone recommend me a good and simple recipe for a cream armor color for space marines
>>
>>94071649
zandri dust
agrax in recesses
optional sepia wash for subtle shading
ushabti layer
screaming skull edge highlight
pallid wych flesh final highlight
That's how I'd go about it with citadel paints
>>
>>94071633
The thing about practice is that you can't just keep mindlessly slapping paint on models. Repetition is not practice. You have to be mindful about the decisions that you're making and the techniques you're using in order to actually improve.
You have to identify and address your shortcomings in order to move past them.
>>
>>94071622
i'm kinda same, maybe more than 20 but still not enough to call it an army, and that's over several years

but i've improved a lot since my first minis and i don't try to rush or impose the speed limit. i actually overdo it, with subassembly and painting almost every piece, even if it won't be visible besides some particular angle

i enjoy the process and enjoy the result, and i analyze every mini i've done to improve my skills

i honestly can't say how to improve or enjoy it tho, everyone is too different. i saw a guy who paints like that one thin your paints meme, and he does not care and still enjoys it, and i have no idea how
>>
>>94071649
ushabti base
screaming skull highlight
white scar further highlight
thinned agrax for brownlining
>>
File: 20241004_134448~2.jpg (1.11 MB, 2499x1681)
1.11 MB
1.11 MB JPG
Brothers of the mine rejoice!
>>
>>94071701
also painting for tabletop and painting for display is completely different processes imho. a lot of youtubers trick people into THIS ONE COOL TECHNIQUE FOR QUICK AND COOL SPACE MARINE by hiding the unfinished and barely touched parts, which would look meh in the hands when you could see mini in natural lights and from different angles. then people try to mimic them and get different results and get frustrated when it's not 5 min paintjob or it's not as cool looking
>>
>>94071743
well to be fair if you watch videos titled like that you deserve it
>>
>>94069274
this gives me starcraft 1 vibes, besides the obvious its a marine. maybe its the color choices, specifically that purple base
>>
>>94065291
Cool lil buggers.
>>
>>94066768
Yeah. Have to cut that little rigid noose off and tie a little bitty one so it sways, though.
>>
>>94065739
i may suggest necron warriors. necrons are very easy to paint unless you pick some crazy color scheme, 80% of it is just learning how to do metal

it may help you to understand the process in general, and do some basic practice. otoh, nonetheless when you'd switch back to imperial guard, you'll still need to learn how to paint specifically them, necrons won't teach you how to paint leather belts or human skin or cloth, so maybe some more basic imperial guard unit would do?
>>
>>94065905
A lighter shade drybrush on the furs and then a wash will do wonders on that. You can even use gloss on the gums to make it look wet
>>
File: 1368062501097.png (89 KB, 576x432)
89 KB
89 KB PNG
>>94069499
turns out I fucked up the varnish on the carapce and basically ruined all the work I did on it to the point I'm going to have to strip it all off; kind of a bummer ngl but I'll just mind to not use it on the carapace again.
>>
>>94071985
how do you fuck up varnish?
>>
File: Neurlictor WIP 2.png (930 KB, 738x968)
930 KB
930 KB PNG
kind of annoyed that I went too thick on the tentacles, ended up filling in a lot of detail, otherwise I'm fairly happy with it. I didn't have much practice before it showed up, and planned to practice on a few more of my easy-built termagaunts I got at a yard sale, but I primed it, then I dry brushed the carapace, and now here we are.
>>
>>94070889
I get it friend. In that case why not pin them, and bend the extra pin flush to the underside of the base with a tiny drop of glue. When it comes time to change the base you can pop that spot of glue and pull the mini right off.
>>
>>94072130
NTA, but if you spray too far it can become frosted. Rubbing some olive oil on it can help, as it fills the micro texture.
>>
>>94072146
Put a black wash on them.
>>
>>94072173
olive oil is a miracle material
like lemon juice and egg white, it's the stuff of sorcery
>>
>>94072173
You can spray gloss before spraying the matte varnish to prevent frosting
>>
>>94072180
Olive oil goes rancid though. It's only shelf stable for like 2 years
>>
>>94072183
How does that work?
>>
>>94072183
And as always give the thin layers time to dry between them. Frosting 80% of the time is due to varnish being too thick or the previous layer didnt fully dry so moisture gets trapped.
>>
>>94072193
idk, maybe it lowers the surface tension of the matte varnish or some shit. I'm not a materials scientist
>>
>>94072179
all I've got right now is a dark brown strong tone
I've got some citadel paints on the way now, but I don't know that a black wash is included, and I'd want to practice on one of my 'gaunts first.
would black caligraphy ink work for a wash or would it stick too much?
>>
>>94072205
I have no idea what that ink is made of or how it behaves. I don't use citadel paints either, so I forgot the name of their black wash. Either way, a black wash would put those tentacles more in line with the look of the body.
>>
>>94067147
New hands are tiny but if both sides are the same it's not really that noticeable.
Two handed weapons would not work very well. Primaris torsos have the sides at an angle and are about 1mm wider so those won't fit very well
>>
>>94067253
Get some plasticard of the same thickness as the trim you want to cog up and cut some squares of appropriate size.
Then glue them in place and use miliput to smooth the joints with the rest of the trim
Something like that
>>
>>94070955
Its nice to hear my own dumb pain from someone else. I've got a start collecting box of dwarves with only 4 models assembled and I'm already wracked with indecision in regards to the paintscheme.

Going to try painting a 10mm unit, never done that before and I hope it helps me get over a bit of the indecision.
>>
File: IMG_4290.jpg (2.18 MB, 4032x3024)
2.18 MB
2.18 MB JPG
trying to reduce my Ork pile of shame for Orktober.
>>
>>94072173
varnish again then, or liglthly brush the frosted areas with more barnish or ipa or something, no need to trash the painthob

> Rubbing some olive oil
fuck no
>>
File: Neurolictor WIP 3.png (691 KB, 653x749)
691 KB
691 KB PNG
>>94072223
washed in dark brown tone, doesn't seem to have hurt it.
>>
>>94072446
Works better than a double varnish
>>
>>94072610
until the oil goes rancid
>>
>>94072446
>fuck no
We've been doing this for centuries anon.
>>
>>94072614
>he doesn't know about egg whites

yeah man, all those renaissance paintings going rancid is a real problem
>>
>>94072614
Yeah, don't lick your mini either way. It's not like that tiny amount of olive oil is gonna produce a smell. Feel free to use a mineral oil if you wanna be overly cautious there, Debby.
>>
>>94072628
This MFer is putting mayonnaise on his minis
>>
>>94072650
>implying
egg whites are for oils, anon
if you figure out a way to paint a miniature with oils, post pics.
>>
>>94072675
You're on thin ice. I'm like two more posts from conflating you with the guy who mixed literal shit into his paint to gain nurgle's favor or whateverthefuck
>>
>>94072698
I'm going to paint my thousand suns with Mummy Brown
>>
>>94072714
That's retarded enough to go full circle and become one of the coolest things someone from /wip/ has done.
>>
>>94071353
That is a ridiculous notion I love it. But in all actuality you can just use small amounts of super glue then break the joint if you need to for whatever reason. It’s common for sealable weapon arms too.
>>
>>94072714
And bottle your own blood to paint your World Eaters
I don't even want to know how the fuck you'll be painting your Emperor's Children
>>
anyone got any experience with commissioning a 3d modeller for bits? I'm looking to get some custom helmets to use on minis, but never done anything like this before, is fiverr a good place to look for it or are there better sites out there?
>>
Quick question about MDF.
am I better off painting and sealing before I assemble or will it show glue and seams?
>>
>>94072615
yeah, also painting with crushed mummies, but there are alternatives now
>>
>>94072130
I don't know. 'Ardcoat's always gone well for me before, and on the rest of the body it worked great like normal, but for some reason on the upper carapace it became cloudy and oddly textured and totally ruined the paint job.
I was hesitant in the past to try and improve my Hive Tyrant's carapace despite knowing I could make it better now out of fear of ruining it on accident, so it really kind of bums me out that it ended up happening and I flew too close to the sun. I'm trying to find the best way to get all of it off, but thankfully the guy being made of metal will keep the model itself safe from harm.
I can also take the time while doing this to put Toxic Miasma in the Heat Vents too since I'm going to need to clean those off as well so honestly while it kind of sucks a lot right now I'm sure by the end of it all he'll come back out even better than before. His flesh absolutely has gotten even better, which makes me really glad. Even if tuning up the veins on the left side of his head has highlighted where I tried to cut the skull in half when I was a kid.
God, I am so grateful that he's made of metal. Even if I'm only now making him shine it effectively idiot-proofed him against the dumb things I tried to do years ago.
>>
>>94072783
I remember one of those studios that paint miniatures for people doing it so you can transfer the models from dioramas to playing bases
>>
>>94073022
It honest-to-god feels like I’ve taken him to a barber shop the way I’m doing this. Hopefully it doesn’t take too long to paint his carapace back. I’ll probably just leave the gloss from the nuln oil as the finish and not take any chances.
Threw in the Warrior too since I might as well; he was the only one of the original six I had who wasn’t in complete disrepair when I got them out of the box at the start of the year so it makes sense to me he was the simplest to paint. He’s also one of the two I had as a favorite so I’ve pretty much turned him into a Prime. Once I’m done with the Big Daddy I’ll go back to the other warrior and see if I can finish him up nicely.
>>94062782
Glad to see you’re still around; pretty good work on Leviathan if I do say so myself. I like the kitbashed Prime made from the newer sprue and lone winged figure a lot, it looks really neat so far.
Though despite your very apparent skill I must admit I am very weirded out by that model.
>>
>>94071735
Swing, swing, swing with me!
>>
>>94072829
>how the fuck you'll be painting your Emperor's Children
Hint: lots of frosting
>>
>>94073034
I’ve only heard of people building bases that slot into dioramas.
>>
>>94072866
>is fiverr a good place to look for it
I think most people ask the artists that already make things for 3d printing for that kind of thing when they are open for commissions.
If you find someone on fiverr that has made stuff specifically for resin printing at 28mm and has warhammer stuff I don't see why they wouldn't work. It's just that if they don't have either of them its going to be hard for a random 3d modeler to actually know what they are doing
>>
File: 20241004_220001.jpg (1.35 MB, 2935x2422)
1.35 MB
1.35 MB JPG
Could not resist temptation. Had to buy the new Leman Russ even when I hve ten six of them.

Rattlecan black for basecoat
Drybrush khaki
Dark red for filter tech and cannon marking

Now the actual painting starts.
>>
>>94061758
do contrast paints/lahmin medium thinned paints like that marine wash in the OP pic have the same issue with reactivation from varnishing as speedpaint 2.0 does?
>>
>>94073740
How new is it? What does the old one look like?

>>94066680
Nobody has a suggestion for the cutest model?
>>
>>94073881

New, as in the Horus Heresy version.
>>
>>94073881
>new
A year at maximum? When was solar auxilia released?

Interestingly, it did not replace the old kit.
>>
File: DeathwingKnights2024b[1].jpg (286 KB, 1000x1000)
286 KB
286 KB JPG
I normally prime my marines black, but I'm going to get started on Deathwing terminators. It would make more sense to prime them white, right?
>>
>>94074014
white or grey or beige yeah
>>
>>94073587
found it
https://youtu.be/uUhqD3gj4M8?feature=shared&t=427
>>
File: 20241004_205838.jpg (423 KB, 1073x1670)
423 KB
423 KB JPG
WIP chapter banner, went for elegant but the banner surface is a bit gribbly so might add some detail or purity seals or something.
>>
>>94074130
Looks pretty good
>>
>>94073845
I've literally never heard of the reactivation issue with any miniature paint aside from the speedpaint thing
>>
>>94073881
>>94073991
>When was solar auxilia released?
only been a few months
>>
>>94074130
banner surface just makes it look like canvas, honestly. great work.
>>
File: BLAZER+LOW+'77+VNTG.jpg (37 KB, 936x1170)
37 KB
37 KB JPG
It is copped
>>
>>94073845
speedpaints 2 still reactivate? jfc
>>
>>94074455
I only have it happen with varnishing unless I spray insanely lightly
>>
>>94074481
I have it happen with varnishing too but only brush on satin varnish for some reason, I think it has a really high water content. No trouble with munitorum varnish.
>>
I'm painting a lot of first and second gen Stormcast I got for cheap. I like the reference shots and 360 degree views GW has on their website, but of course they're all gone now. Does anyone know of a good online archive for the 360 degree model shots, if one exists?

(Don't say Wayback, it's slow and a pain to navigate and they don't have half the pages I want anyway)
>>
>>94074428
>phobos marines
>>
>>94074428
Lol sorry wrong thread
>>
File: file.png (1.14 MB, 1483x1413)
1.14 MB
1.14 MB PNG
Didn't notice the lovely big mouldline on his arm until I was finished.
>>
>>94074743
>moldline running down the entirety of its face
>>
>>94074743
and the foot
and the torso
and the spear handle
>>
File: 7ad.png (90 KB, 496x608)
90 KB
90 KB PNG
>>94074786
and the red splotch on the chest
and the missed bit on the arm
>>
>>94074743
It looks like you didn't clean it at all. Used contrast too which makes them all even more pronounced. Unfortunate
>>
>>94071735
I sold a second BfSP back in the day. Wish I'd kept it. Are these slapchopped from brown or something?
>>
>>94074428
yer man's got carpet on his gutties
>>
>>94074743
Just a little scar running all the way from his chin to his toes, even has a matching scar on the bone mask. Bro just likes to coordinate his fashion.
>>
File: harold-03.jpg (512 KB, 1150x805)
512 KB
512 KB JPG
>>94074865
T-thanks, anon.
>>
File: Weirdnob Shaman.jpg (91 KB, 920x950)
91 KB
91 KB JPG
>>94074867
I happens bro, those AoS ork models can be rough. I've said it before, but this guy was a pain in the ass. The cape is in 4 pieces, the head is 3 pieces (tongue is its own piece that connects to the inside of the back of the model), the hood and cape connect along the arms and shoulders leaving a seam that goes from one wrist to the other all the way across the shoulders and head.
>>
File: IMG_1829.jpg (1.14 MB, 3674x1357)
1.14 MB
1.14 MB JPG
>>94066993
Two more
>>
>>94074849
Lol
>>
>>94074849
>gutties
s'craic anon?
>>
File: spiterider_wip.jpg (575 KB, 1000x1000)
575 KB
575 KB JPG
spiterider progress, only a couple colors left to highlight
>>
I managed to strip off all the paint on the back carapace and figured since I'll be repainting it all anyway I'd take the time to mix some clay and give him Toxic Miasma in his heat vents like I did for the Carnifexes. It turned out quite nicely, so now I just need to wait a few hours for it to harden up and then I'll get started on painting it all again. I might also paint up some other biomorphs as well, though I'm not sure if I'd want to add them yet.
Also, while reading the biomorphs in 4th Ed turns out Toxic Miasma was originally described as "soporific" of all things; which does explain why it lowers enemy weapon skill in the game rather than harming them but the idea is both thematically scary (drugging the enemy and making them fall asleep mid-fight) and also really funny (alternatively the cloud is instead making everyone around him get high).
>>
>>94074927
can't beat night gobbos. That fanatic sculpt is excellent
>>
>>94074810
Yeah. Cheap car primer.
I have had the models lying around since forever but I am trying to slay the plastic Mountain.
>>
>>94069274
>>94069877
It's funny because those are the normal colors for IF but the painterly style calls to mind Zorn.
>>
Any examples of purely airbrushed minis that look good? In my experience they usually look rushed (I could see a more tasteful WAACfag doing it) so I'm just wondering if it's possible to pull off.
>>
New thread:

>>94075973
>>94075973
>>94075973
>>
>>94071649
1:1 Deck Tan and Ger. Cam. Beige
Shade with brown ink (mixing in with base tone)
Volumetric highlight with Deck Tan
Highlight edges with Deck Tan and white.



[Advertise on 4chan]

Delete Post: [File Only] Style:
[Disable Mobile View / Use Desktop Site]

[Enable Mobile View / Use Mobile Site]

All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective parties. Images uploaded are the responsibility of the Poster. Comments are owned by the Poster.