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File: 1FortisaxxBckgrnd.png (5.97 MB, 3240x1825)
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Hello! I make pepakura for money. Models are usually constructed only once. My pieces are not so much like what we can find online; they tend to be VERY large and intricate, akin to a vg model. This is context for what my advice applies to. If you do it as an easy hobby or stick with truly low poly/tiny part models, a lot won't apply. No pic related just inspo, this is advice dump not my art thread. If you have any questions, why X, tell me more about Z, I am happy to oblige. I rarely use 4chan and wrote this on a whim, sorry if no reply. If you are interested in reaching for the stars with pepakura, here are my personal trade secrets.

MATERIALS/TOOLS
---Do not score the fold lines by hand. If you have a silhouette cameo, go ahead. To fold by hand purchase a glass scraper. I have two, one with a small 1.5 inch blade and another that is 4 inches. Dull the blade. I align the fold line across my fingers, press down with the blade.
---Stop using an xacto knife. Get a snap blade utility knife. I HIGHLY recommend OLFA, XA-1 design.
---Titebond II Premium wood glue. It doesn't cure instantly but that's good, you don't want that. You want to be able to move the tab around into the perfect position before it starts curing. You have a 10 second window to make sure it's in position before it starts curing, then another 10 seconds till you can let go & any tension in the structure won't pull the tab out of place.
---Tiny squeezable craft bottles for glue. One of the bottles I added thicker medical syringe tube. It is long, which is good for when I have to apply glue to a tab which is difficult to access The other bottle has a 1 inch long coffee straw, I use that for when I need a lot of glue then spread it around. When a tab is huge I just open a jar of glue and use a brush to paint it on.
---Dental tools.
---Little neodymium magnets. I rarely use them, usually to hold a tab in place after the glue has already cured to the point that I can let go. See below
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STRATEGY 2
Think about where a piece is in relation to other pieces. You wouldn't begin to put together a section which, once constructed, would be a physical barrier stopping you from completing another section. You wouldn't start building a snakes head and tail at once; when both halves are completed you cannot reach inside the two halves to position and hold the tabs down as the glue cures.
Each model is like a puzzle & the snake is easy to solve. Start at the head and end at the tail. You can't reach inside to hold the final tabs, but the paper won't be resisting you with tension at that stage. Even the most complex pieces can be very easy to construct if you properly solve the puzzle of where to start, what pieces come next, and where to end.
In my early days of making other people's models I'd sometimes see difficulty ratings. It seemed like an unnecessary deterrent. I don't want to say every piece is easy to make, but every piece can be made easy and faster. Typical advice, work smart not hard. If I have a giant half completed model on the floor I'm not going to cut, fold, and attach one piece at a time unless that's the best move. That's slower. I'll often glue a few pieces together before attaching them to the model.

!!!What you can and can't do is completely determined by your ability to do the following: Move the tab into position, secure it, shift it into its perfect spot, and use your fingers to press the entire length of the tab to its edge while the glue cures, WITH ONLY TWO HANDS!!!
It's not an issue for most pieces out there, but if you want to get into hardcore models it will be a huge deal. With smaller pieces , maybe something curvy like an ear, you really need to think about its natural tendency. Human skin has a natural flow like a sand dune; surgeons will cut you open along the grain so it's easy to close back up. Work along the grain. I think I've explained the concept, the rest comes thru experience, judgement and foresight.
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FINAL PRODUCT
I never use colored paper or printed textures. If you want a really nice product, move away from that. Texture has its use in hobby pieces.
The glue can overflow out of the seam and get on the paper. If you want to get rid of it then you'll have to cut that part off the model and start over. Look up fox pepakura. If I were to design a simple cute lil fox, that kind of coloring fits the model, but even so there is really no point in using colored paper. Just use painters tape to mask the area you want to paint, at that point you can now add subtle detail to your unique piece.
Aesthetically, the best part of large, complex pepakura is its geometry. A single light source makes the whole thing pop. Shadow brings it to life, moving the source changes its appearance. When I finish a piece I spray paint it white to remove imperfection. Most of my pieces sell in this state, that is just what most people want when I show them what it looks like with different light sources and light colors cast on it. I inform the buyer that I can paint it a different solid color, or I can give it a more intricate paint job with undershading/zenithal highlight and/or a more realistic design that doesn't take away from the geometry.
For example, a seahorse would do well with a base color, alternate coloring of specific geometry (using painters tape to mark off sections), eyes, and free form spray painting (letting the paint spit out in little drops, spraying highlight on tail tip, undershading), finalize with matte/clear glaze. The geometry is retained and highlighted through this paint job. Don't overdo. My goal is not to make it appear realistic like VGs do to convince you it does't have geometry. I'm not going to print texture on it, not going to use a paintbrush. If I wanted to make a giant realistic seahorse I wouldn't be using paper as a medium. Its form is inherently geometric. Any color design should compliment that.
>>
GOING BIG
Working with such large paper models requires support. 3D printing at this scale has so much imperfection, time and risk of failure, it would be very heavy and require a complex web of internal support. As an art form, sculpting/mold pouring also isn't under threat from this tech in my eyes. For my pieces, shoddy woodworking as a skeleton does the job and I pad the areas were wood contacts the paper with pool noodles, pillow filling wrapped in fabric, fire hazard stuff. 120 lb paper is flexible, surprisingly resilient, and the final product is so lightweight it's never going to warp if properly supported. I use wood glue so the paper will rip before the tabs will ever become unsecured.
I've had to finish assembly after transport on site, that's something I avoid, logistic crap. I tend to base the size of my largest pieces around standard dimensions. Standard height of a ceiling, standard width and height of a door and double doors. LxWxH is not a determine factor, you can maneuver a piece diagonally and twist it around to make it fit through a frame.
MODELING
idk. I have no formal training. I studied art from my favorite games, Bloodborne and Dark Souls, looked at art, texture-less models. At first I only made symmetrical models and added asymmetrical parts afterwards. Just get blender go on youtube and practice. I copied a bunch of low poly tutorials and then my first model was a huge leap into complexity. If you're making a cat and the proportions look weird just look at a reference and keep messing with it till it seems right. Once you have the proportions right you can make the polygons look more geometric-y. I am not a creative person. I do this in reverence of objective beauty and other's art, try to reverently replicate it in this form. Thanks for reading I hope this helped or inspired you
>>
thank you for this excellent thread
>>
Nice thread, cheers for the glass cutting tool tip.

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Some time ago, several users contributed various NOA magazines to a publicly shared folder. This is a reminder that everyone can access and contribute to this folder to keep it up to date and ensure all magazines are accessible to everyone.

Currently, we have most of the magazines, except for the latest issues and newsletters. Please refer to the index file to see the list of currently shared magazines.

You can access the shared drive using this link:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1YYwrQLPUqv-aCvyNbRdNKLSHe7Zb-dXO?usp=sharing

Please note that the folder has read-only permissions because many items were accidentally deleted several months ago. If you have any missing magazines to contribute, please upload them to this post, and I will update the shared folder accordingly.

Thank you all for your contributions!
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>>621187
Yes.

But let's keep this thread focused on NOA, please.
>>
>>621188
OK, I just sent you an email.
>>
Thanks.
>>
>>621183
me podrìa compartir NOA 35, 38,39 Y 44 POR FABVOR? leonvelasquezr2@yahoo.es
>>
>>621668
perdon leonvelasquezr@yahoo.es

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Is there a term for this type of 3D models? I love this one, I'm looking for more.
A lot of (animal) models are unfortunately too flat for my taste. I tried to google "3D animal origami" but I only got a bunch of tessellations/modular origami. Please recommend me some diagram/models to fold.
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>>619563
One of those flat models I meant. They look much better from the side.
>>
low-poly
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>>617743
>>617758
>>617809
i would call these shell models but idk if that means anything to anyone else
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>>621638
Not really.
>>
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>>621641
ahh. yeah, i tried googling different terms and there doesn't seem to be a name for these sort of husk-like models. i'm not sure if this fits what you're after, but i've always been fond of Anibal Voyer's ghost model
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q0tLjyoC_7c

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Link to Origami Library in Discord again:
https://discord.gg/EAZvEBRaCS
We really need your contribution, please participate if you can
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>>621595
Who asked for this?
>>
Hey! Any1 knows a japn site or any site where 2 BUY the JOAS34 mag, 2nd hand even? I really dont want 2 buy a susbscription much less a membership.
>>
>>621606
Nope, and since it's brand new, you're not going to find it second hand right now either.
>>
>>621606
Why don't you offer money for a scan?
The subscription that offers that issue is

13500 Jpy so about 90 USD.
There's 6 magazines, 1 special and like 2 extras.

Make an offer accordingly.
>>
>>621606
Sometimes these things show up way later on Yahoo Auctions or ocassionally ebay. Yahoo Auctions is a pain to buy from outside Japan, but there are forwarding services to other countries.

Honestly just paying for a membership is probably the cheapest and easiest way to get a copy until someone posts a scan.

Pepakura had a version update and I was wondering if anyone has a licence key crack or the hex value offset to unlock locked pdos.
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>>620581
Its a program for unfolding 3D models into "foldable" pieces, which you can then print and put together. bunch of other shit you can mess with but thats the gist of it
>>
6.0.3 offsets:

6FF74: 0F8414010000 -> E91501000090
8C501: 85C0 -> 33C0
8E332: 0F84AD000000 -> E9AE00000090
8E483: 7512 -> 9090
8E48C: 7509 -> 9090

The extra change is to bypass an integrity check that got added.
They still haven't fixed the problem with pepakura 2 pdos mentioned here >>609418.
>>
>>621580
Thank you so much for sharing this! Do you maybe have a 6.0.3 license keys to input as well? Or does this offset also bypass the key verification?
>>
>>621596
ya, can't get any keys to work, plz help
>>
https://scnlog.me/apps/tama-software-pepakura-designer-v6-0-3-incl-keygen-btcr/

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I make small Origami to the point that when I gift people Origami they toss it in the Trash because it's too small to be recognised.
Either that or I'm just too bad at Origami lol
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>>621373
Reverse image search led me to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jMWiA-0pZKk
>>
>>611714
I need one I am sad
>>
>>611714
No you wipe your butt with that hand lmfao I don’t want your toilet paper
>>
I used to go to my local mall, sit at a tablet next to the railing (2nd floor) and drop origami cranes over the rail. They glide down. Then I would just wait and watch people light up when they found them.
>>
I do bill origami and throw it to my burlesque and stripper friends, or when paying another artfag for something.

Paying my sincerest gratitude to those dedicatied enough to create these amazing templates. Took an entire week, became my most badass room deco.
Any advice on how to expedite the process? Sitting like the hunchback of Notre Dame for 9 hours every day for 7 days is hella unhealthy.
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HE'F GOT TEEFF
(lost his teeth template when I was constructing this guy, got a chance to reprint them)
(or more pessimistically, i exchanged mine for his)
>>
>>620892
Experience I guess.
I’m not sure I could do it now given how long it’s been since I built anything. But I built this Tyranitar at one point. It took me about 12 hours start to finish nonstop overnight. I did it to pass a lonely New Year’s Eve back in like 2008.
>>
>>620892
This looks fucking brutal. I'm not a regular on this board but this is AMAZING.
>>
>>620892
I fucking LOVE Tyranitar
>>
>>620892
This thing looks so cool oh my god- If I had seen that anywhere else I would have had to have zoomed in on it to tell it was paper and not plastic figure

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I finally found the NOA magazine 202 but I don't have an diyzhen invite so can you guys get it for me?
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>>621529
That was as unexpected! Thank you for the info!
>>
>>621522
It's legit, going on sale late august on aladin. U can do a search on faceb 4 prigami pro and get all available info.
>>
>>621533
Or you can find it on Yoo Tae Yong twitter.
>>
>>621533
>>621534
Thanks for the info.
>>
Will b aiit

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Yesterday I made this Miku figure, and since her arms could move I decided to pose her like my favourite dictator. I wanted to make a cute hat for her but I can't find a free template of the right kind.
The one I made for now sucks and I believe she deserves better.
If any of you can help me that would be nice.
>>
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>>621391
Try the one from this..probably needs to resize a bit..and find some gold paper and cut it for the insignia or something..
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>>621392
Hail Miku!
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>>621391
miku is so cute
>>
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>>621391
hehe
>>
>>621391
>I decided to pose her like my favourite dictator.
Actually that's SS.
Adolf never wore SS uniform and instead only wore party uniform

I am really interested in this one:

https://www.yoycart. com/Product/42956856534/

but I have never heard of the site, have no experience and have no idea if it's fake or not. Does anybody know? Is it an actual physical paper print they send you or just online files?

Or does anybody know if these boxy One Piece papercrafts are somewhere to be found online maybe?
>>
Those are cool
>>
its a chibi
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>>615974
Anyone got the files for any of these?
>>
>>615974

I've emailed them before about shipping because i thought it was just pdfs but this is their reply

"No, it is not only pdfs instructions, it is a half finished goods, it need cut, fold, and paste by yourself"

so yeah theyll ship it to you

How do we replicate this?
Source: https://youtu.be/3EbjlJdvPkU?si=IQfAG2LQtanTlYkj
>>
>>621419
Okay then.
>>
>>621419
Basically just this in different shapes and sizes and with pieces of paper glued to the popouts
>>
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Sorry I forgot to post the image

been trying lowering the polygon count and all for the past 3 days
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>>615476
>>615482
again, thanks for the advice
will keep yall updated
>>
>>615475
If i (https://boards.4channel.org/po/thread/603852) may give you sort of pro-tip do a triage on what parts (hair, eyes, clothing and accesories) and mercilessly cut it off first before you do any sort of decimation be it manual or automatic. Not only they might make assembly overly hard so you might ultimately give up but they regularly look better scratch. Also do while you might be decimation and testing that model&texture in blender do bear in mind Pepa does its own polygon merging on load of complex model. One way or another thousands of faces gonna perish.
>>
You'll want to look up some retopo and texture baking tutorials for blender. Most of the facial details will need to be flattened into a texture for instance.
>>
>>621378
Kill yaself
>>
>>615474
>>615473
>>615472
use the rael PSX version , dummy.

https://static.wikia.nocookie.net/finalfantasy/images/9/9a/Tifa-FFVII-battle.png/revision/latest?cb=20120409231917

Please post images that print well for use as origami paper! I routinely "chop up" a page to easily get 12 to 20+ squares out of a single print.
Multi-pattern images are really cool... allowing for several squares each with individual patterns.
Any good pattern that'll work for several squares with the same/similar patterns.
Black & White can be really cool when printed onto color papers.
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>>
You get 16 unique squares outta this multi-pattern print!
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And a Happy 420 2U
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You get 18 vintage patterns!

Post your favorite Origami sets
>>
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Nothing special here.
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i like the patterns.

File: Build a pig.pdf (1.17 MB, PDF)
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>>
thank you so much ive been trying to find this for so long
>>
I saw it in memes about ukraine
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>>615535
I saw this in a meme
>>
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