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Hey guys anon from /tg/ here.
I'm making a dungeon that will have a final room a play on escher stairs painting. I already did the modeling and templates for every detail but I wanted to make ask you guys since you have a bit more experience with it.
1st I wanted for it to be transparent since it will be a battlefield with minies and shit
2nd I wanted for it to be easily turned around in every way so it will be easier for players to navigate it
But I am worried about next problems
First one is a stability. I want to use thick paper for this but I am afraid even that wouldn't do the trick. I thought of maybe making a skeleton for a box or something but I'm not exactly sure how to do it right.
Second, I need to stick minis on vertical surfaces and upside down. I thought about double sided tape but I'm not sure it will grip on the stairs. I could do slopes but it would be lame.
If you have anything else in mind that can go wrong, do tell
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Magnets seems like both will add too much weight and waaay outside of my abilities.
Maybe I will do special tokens for this section instead of using minis. Should be easier to stick them up.
Paper strips are a good idea though. I just hope that templates will hold the thing together.
Ooo that looks fun to build lol
Tokens are a good idea, could always probably tape those then too
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Sheets finally came to me from printing and I'm trying to assemble the thing.
How do you shape stairs properly?
I did half cuts already to make a clean fold but having so many of them so close makes things retarded
coz you are the retard for making it so hard. You got to glue the stairs first and then close with the larger bottom part. And as you go down the stairs, glue each of the stairs on the same level, left and right, at the same time. Easy as hell. It's only a slightly more complicated box design, that's not even a real papercraft. Just think how the thing is folded at the end and pre-bend them like that. Simple.
This is cool and I'd like to see the papercraft end product but you might get better results with wood or 3D printing. Another option would be to ask a local weldor to cut the pieces out of steel sheet and weld your prop together, which would let you use magnet-based miniatures more easily. >>>/diy/ should have some relevant threads.

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share ur fav sticky note origami

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Feel free to post your collections, your works in progress, or your star hordes! You can find lots of inspiration in the old thread (http://boards.4chan.org/po/thread/515222) Remember /PO/ is a slow board so please don't bump the thread. I created the last thread over two years ago. Here's to two more.
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yes, PDF file template
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That is just photoshopped onto this image lol
I feel so dumb for being unable to make these

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If you can make this thing a reality I'll resign as an art (netzach) tutor. oragami is kino

hello, can anyone help me to convert pdo to pdf?.
i found the nilou character pdo but i have a hard time accessing the fdo file because it's too big and besides i don't have a pc.
please help guys!
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that is designer not viewer
are they gatekeeping and excluding builders who are not papercraft designers?
and this won't directly install on my mac, linux test machine, or smartphone. gatekeeping against anyone not on winblows?
i'm starting to wonder why anyone would ever use this thing.
cos its the one that works?
The download includes both the Designer version and the Viewer version nowadays. Search Paper-Maker and you'll find a website where you can open PDO files in your browser without having to install anything. You will have to make an acoount I think.
Cambio el papercraft de Marín hololive por el papercraft nilou
Hello, I would like to know if anyone has the instructions for Hatsune Miku 5th Anniversary Symphony

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I've made several custom paperized papertoys, based on upcoming Oppenheimer film.
First one up is J.Robert Oppenheimer as played by Cillian Murphy.

Download PDF here: https://www.blog.private-universe.net/2023/07/13/papercraft-paperized-oppenheimer-papertoy-trinity-site-version/
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I've started series of Good Omens papertoys with versions of main characters from TV-show (they are a birthday gift for a friend).
I plan to make book versions too later.

Download here: https://www.blog.private-universe.net/series/good-omens-papertoys/
Papertoys of characters from Good Omens book, inspired by book covers and fanart.
Crowley: https://www.blog.private-universe.net/2023/11/13/papercraft-paperized-good-omens-crowley-papertoy-book-version/
Aziraphale: https://www.blog.private-universe.net/2023/11/16/papercraft-paperized-good-omens-aziraphale-papertoy-book-version/
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Latest addition to my collection of Paperized customs - "Our Flag Means Death" main characters.
This was a commission from a fan of the show, who wanted to give smth back to the fandom in thanks for keeping them sane through 2022-2023.

Download free PDFs: https://www.blog.private-universe.net/series/our-flag-means-death-papertoys/
Recently I reworked my Tenet papertoys
Download free PDF here: https://www.blog.private-universe.net/series/tenet-papertoys/
lol at the paper cranes.

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if anyone has this please share. (sorry for the quality I only found this image, but the title of the book is NOA Magazine 5).
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could you share NOA 165 PLEASE
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I can only hope that whoever has these and won't trade or share them enjoys them on their way to hell.
I don’t have it

anyone who has this model to trade please
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Like they said
It's fucking 6 bucks
Buy it
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Not OP. That's what I did. :3
hell yeah
support the artists and we'll get more
Fuck off lmao
Commented on a shit ton of posts for what

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Hello, does anyone have this model? Please let's trade
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I don’t have it
hi friend, can u share model Faruzan please?
post it

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Endless garden 6 modular units
Nice work anon!

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Modified sonobe ball made of 3 inch units
That's cute, not as good as another thread's but I like it

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6 slide together squares. modified sonobe units, and a dodecahedron from playing cards
That's amazing!

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Recently got back into Quake with the release of Quake II remastered, and came across some photos of this model online-I thought I used to have a copy of it, but can't find it-I can only find the similar Ninjatoes version.

Does anyone have a copy of this model they could scan and preserve for the future? It is pretty old; from 1997! I've been searching for it for awhile with no luck.
Does this help

>I can only find the similar Ninjatoes version.

Sorry dude, I've got this one already! I appreciate it though :)

This place still has and sells them, at least as of 3 months ago. Pretty cheap. Someone should buy one and upload it.
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He-Man re-color

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Hello! I make pepakura for money. Models are usually constructed only once. My pieces are not so much like what we can find online; they tend to be VERY large and intricate, akin to a vg model. This is context for what my advice applies to. If you do it as an easy hobby or stick with truly low poly/tiny part models, a lot won't apply. No pic related just inspo, this is advice dump not my art thread. If you have any questions, why X, tell me more about Z, I am happy to oblige. I rarely use 4chan and wrote this on a whim, sorry if no reply. If you are interested in reaching for the stars with pepakura, here are my personal trade secrets.

---Do not score the fold lines by hand. If you have a silhouette cameo, go ahead. To fold by hand purchase a glass scraper. I have two, one with a small 1.5 inch blade and another that is 4 inches. Dull the blade. I align the fold line across my fingers, press down with the blade.
---Stop using an xacto knife. Get a snap blade utility knife. I HIGHLY recommend OLFA, XA-1 design.
---Titebond II Premium wood glue. It doesn't cure instantly but that's good, you don't want that. You want to be able to move the tab around into the perfect position before it starts curing. You have a 10 second window to make sure it's in position before it starts curing, then another 10 seconds till you can let go & any tension in the structure won't pull the tab out of place.
---Tiny squeezable craft bottles for glue. One of the bottles I added thicker medical syringe tube. It is long, which is good for when I have to apply glue to a tab which is difficult to access The other bottle has a 1 inch long coffee straw, I use that for when I need a lot of glue then spread it around. When a tab is huge I just open a jar of glue and use a brush to paint it on.
---Dental tools.
---Little neodymium magnets. I rarely use them, usually to hold a tab in place after the glue has already cured to the point that I can let go. See below
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Think about where a piece is in relation to other pieces. You wouldn't begin to put together a section which, once constructed, would be a physical barrier stopping you from completing another section. You wouldn't start building a snakes head and tail at once; when both halves are completed you cannot reach inside the two halves to position and hold the tabs down as the glue cures.
Each model is like a puzzle & the snake is easy to solve. Start at the head and end at the tail. You can't reach inside to hold the final tabs, but the paper won't be resisting you with tension at that stage. Even the most complex pieces can be very easy to construct if you properly solve the puzzle of where to start, what pieces come next, and where to end.
In my early days of making other people's models I'd sometimes see difficulty ratings. It seemed like an unnecessary deterrent. I don't want to say every piece is easy to make, but every piece can be made easy and faster. Typical advice, work smart not hard. If I have a giant half completed model on the floor I'm not going to cut, fold, and attach one piece at a time unless that's the best move. That's slower. I'll often glue a few pieces together before attaching them to the model.

!!!What you can and can't do is completely determined by your ability to do the following: Move the tab into position, secure it, shift it into its perfect spot, and use your fingers to press the entire length of the tab to its edge while the glue cures, WITH ONLY TWO HANDS!!!
It's not an issue for most pieces out there, but if you want to get into hardcore models it will be a huge deal. With smaller pieces , maybe something curvy like an ear, you really need to think about its natural tendency. Human skin has a natural flow like a sand dune; surgeons will cut you open along the grain so it's easy to close back up. Work along the grain. I think I've explained the concept, the rest comes thru experience, judgement and foresight.
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I never use colored paper or printed textures. If you want a really nice product, move away from that. Texture has its use in hobby pieces.
The glue can overflow out of the seam and get on the paper. If you want to get rid of it then you'll have to cut that part off the model and start over. Look up fox pepakura. If I were to design a simple cute lil fox, that kind of coloring fits the model, but even so there is really no point in using colored paper. Just use painters tape to mask the area you want to paint, at that point you can now add subtle detail to your unique piece.
Aesthetically, the best part of large, complex pepakura is its geometry. A single light source makes the whole thing pop. Shadow brings it to life, moving the source changes its appearance. When I finish a piece I spray paint it white to remove imperfection. Most of my pieces sell in this state, that is just what most people want when I show them what it looks like with different light sources and light colors cast on it. I inform the buyer that I can paint it a different solid color, or I can give it a more intricate paint job with undershading/zenithal highlight and/or a more realistic design that doesn't take away from the geometry.
For example, a seahorse would do well with a base color, alternate coloring of specific geometry (using painters tape to mark off sections), eyes, and free form spray painting (letting the paint spit out in little drops, spraying highlight on tail tip, undershading), finalize with matte/clear glaze. The geometry is retained and highlighted through this paint job. Don't overdo. My goal is not to make it appear realistic like VGs do to convince you it does't have geometry. I'm not going to print texture on it, not going to use a paintbrush. If I wanted to make a giant realistic seahorse I wouldn't be using paper as a medium. Its form is inherently geometric. Any color design should compliment that.
Working with such large paper models requires support. 3D printing at this scale has so much imperfection, time and risk of failure, it would be very heavy and require a complex web of internal support. As an art form, sculpting/mold pouring also isn't under threat from this tech in my eyes. For my pieces, shoddy woodworking as a skeleton does the job and I pad the areas were wood contacts the paper with pool noodles, pillow filling wrapped in fabric, fire hazard stuff. 120 lb paper is flexible, surprisingly resilient, and the final product is so lightweight it's never going to warp if properly supported. I use wood glue so the paper will rip before the tabs will ever become unsecured.
I've had to finish assembly after transport on site, that's something I avoid, logistic crap. I tend to base the size of my largest pieces around standard dimensions. Standard height of a ceiling, standard width and height of a door and double doors. LxWxH is not a determine factor, you can maneuver a piece diagonally and twist it around to make it fit through a frame.
idk. I have no formal training. I studied art from my favorite games, Bloodborne and Dark Souls, looked at art, texture-less models. At first I only made symmetrical models and added asymmetrical parts afterwards. Just get blender go on youtube and practice. I copied a bunch of low poly tutorials and then my first model was a huge leap into complexity. If you're making a cat and the proportions look weird just look at a reference and keep messing with it till it seems right. Once you have the proportions right you can make the polygons look more geometric-y. I am not a creative person. I do this in reverence of objective beauty and other's art, try to reverently replicate it in this form. Thanks for reading I hope this helped or inspired you
thank you for this excellent thread
Nice thread, cheers for the glass cutting tool tip.

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I want to make Tim Avery from son of the Mask as a papercraft figure. Can you help /po/???
no, sorry buddy
Sorry can’t do it
ill try
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I see

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